Biodegradable two-phase hair mask

Abstract

The invention relates to a hair treatment agent comprising two layers, which lie one above the other, and a common interface, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), wherein the oil phase contains, based on the total weight thereof: a) at least 50 wt.% of at least one C9-C12 isoparaffin; b) up to 40 wt.% of at least one monoester and / or diester of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C12 carboxylic acids with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C24 monools or polyols, with the proviso that the at least one monoester or diester has at least one branch in the alcohol part or in the acid part; c) up to 15 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil; d) optionally: up to 10 wt.% of at least one perfume. The invention relates to the cosmetic use of the hair treatment agent for caring for hair in order to improve the detanglability, combability, smoothness, hair shine, and frizziness of hair.

Description

[0001] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA

[0002] Dr. Ludwig

[0003] Biodegradable two-phase hair treatment

[0004] The application describes hair treatment products with two superimposed layers and a common interface, containing in the oil phase a specific mixture of isoparaffin as the main component as well as an ester, a vegetable oil and optionally a perfume.

[0005] The application further describes the cosmetic use of the hair treatment products for hair care.

[0006] Two-phase hair conditioning products have long been known as state of the art and are highly valued by consumers due to their appealing appearance, ease of use, and the care benefits they provide.

[0007] These are usually leave-on products that are preferably applied (preferably sprayed) to the hair immediately after briefly mixing the two phases and condition it.

[0008] The vast majority of these products contain (cyclic) silicones in the oil phase.

[0009] From an ecological point of view and to increase consumer acceptance, there is a need for hair treatment products that are as silicone-free as possible and provide good care.

[0010] Ideally, biodegradable products should be provided.

[0011] Silicone-free two-phase products are also known and available:

[0012] In WO 2020 / 126219, silicone-free two-phase hair treatment products are proposed that contain isoparaffins and at least two different esters.

[0013] In WO 2022 / 063528, silicone-free two-phase hair treatment products are proposed that contain a specific mixture of carboxylic acid esters and carbonic acid esters.

[0014] Consumer tests sometimes find that the detangling of hair after using silicone-free products is not entirely satisfactory. Another potential disadvantage of silicone-free two-phase products can arise, particularly after regular use—especially on fine or severely damaged hair. In this context, a "burdening" of the hair is sometimes criticized, referring to a greasy or stringy appearance that necessitates more frequent, and undesirable, washing. A further disadvantage of many silicone-free alternative products is that they often leave the hair looking coated and not natural, especially if a flat iron is used after drying.

[0015] The present application was therefore based on the objective of providing essentially silicone-free hair treatment products in the form of high-performance two-phase systems that could improve or eliminate the aforementioned disadvantages. 2024P00239WÖ

[0016] 2

[0017] The hair treatment products should be almost completely biodegradable and provide excellent care for treated hair right down to the tips.

[0018] Another goal was to provide two-phase hair treatment products that do not weigh down the hair, even after regular use.

[0019] It has been found that by combining a Cg-Ci2 isoparaffin as the main ingredient with specific esters and vegetable oils in the oil phase, two-phase hair treatment products can be provided that largely meet the aforementioned requirements.

[0020] The presence of (cyclic) silicones is not necessary for the stability, feel, or conditioning properties of such hair treatment products, as the aforementioned combination of active ingredients ensures the provision of two-phase systems with continuous oil and water phases that are stable over a wide temperature range (~20°C to 45°C). The two phases can be quickly and thoroughly mixed and separated again. Furthermore, the aforementioned combination of active ingredients in the oil phase, in conjunction with a suitable water phase in corresponding two-phase products, provides a demonstrable conditioning benefit to treated hair. In particular, detangling, combability, smoothness, shine, and frizz can be significantly improved, while simultaneously achieving a conditioning performance that is at least equivalent to that of conventional two-phase hair care products containing silicones.

[0021] The present invention and preferred embodiments are characterized by the following points:

[0022] 1. Hair treatment composition with two superimposed layers and a common interface, comprising a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), wherein the oil phase contains – based on its total weight –: a) at least 50 wt.% of at least one Cg-Ci2 isoparaffin; b) up to 40 wt.% of at least one mono- and / or diester of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated O4-Ci2 carboxylic acids with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated O4-O24 mono- or polyols, provided that the at least one mono- or diester has at least one branch in the alcohol or acid moiety; c) up to 15 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil; d) optionally: up to 10 wt.% of at least one perfume.

[0023] 2. Hair treatment product according to point 1, containing the water phase (I) in a weight fraction > 80 wt.% and the oil phase (II) in a weight fraction < 20 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment product. 2024P00239WÖ

[0024] 3

[0025] 3. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, containing at least one Cg-Ci2-isoparaffin a) in a weight fraction of at least 55 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 60 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase (II).

[0026] 4. Hair treatment products according to any of the preceding points, containing as C9-C12 isoparaffin a) isononane, isodecane, isosoundecane, isododecane and mixtures thereof.

[0027] 5. Hair treatment product according to point 4, containing isododecane.

[0028] 6. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, containing at least one ester b) in a weight fraction of up to 35 wt.%, particularly preferably up to 30 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase (II).

[0029] 7. Hair treatment product according to one of the preceding points, containing b1): Ester according to formula (I)

[0030] CH3-(CH2)m-(CHR 1 )n-COO-R 2 (I), in the

[0031] R 1 for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cr-Cs alkyl group, preferably for a Ci-O4 alkyl group and most preferably for a methyl or ethyl group, m represents a number from 3 to 11, preferably 3 to 6, n represents a number from 0 to 3, preferably 0 or 1,

[0032] R 2for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C24 alkyl group which may contain one or more -OC(O)-, -NHC(O)- or -C(OH)- groups in the chain, preferably for a straight-chain, saturated C1-C18 alkyl group or for a branched, saturated Ci-Cis alkyl group which contains one or more -OC(O)- groups in the chain.

[0033] 8. Hair treatment preparation according to point 7, containing b1): Esters of 2-ethylhexyl carboxylic acid and myristyl, cetyl and / or stearyl alcohol, particularly preferably esters known under the INCI name cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate b1).

[0034] 9. Hair treatment product according to one of points 1 to 6, containing b2): Ester according to formula

[0035] (H) CH3-(CH2)m-COO-(CH2)p-(CR 3 R 4 )q-(CH2)rC(O)-O(CH2)m-CH3 (II), wherein m, n and R 1have the same meaning as in formula (I), preferably in m for the numbers 3, 4 or 5; n for the number 1 and R 1 where p represents a methyl or ethyl group, p and r independently represent the numbers 0, 1, 2 or 3, preferably the number 1 or 2, and q represents the numbers 0, 1, 2 or 3, preferably the number 1, and

[0036] R 3 , R 4 independently of each other, they represent a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group. 2024P00239WÖ

[0037] 10. Hair treatment product according to point 9, containing b2): Neopentyl polyol esters, preferably neopentyl glycol esters and especially esters known under the INCI name neopentyl glycol diheptanoate b2).

[0038] 11. Hair treatment preparation according to any of the preceding items, containing ester b1) according to formula (I) and ester b2) according to formula (II).

[0039] 12. Hair treatment product according to point 11, containing cetyl-2-ethylhexanoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate.

[0040] 13. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, containing at least one vegetable oil c) in a weight fraction of up to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably up to 7.5 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase (II).

[0041] 14. Hair treatment products according to any of the preceding points, containing as a vegetable oil amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, rosehip oil or any mixtures thereof.

[0042] 15. Hair treatment product according to point 14, containing apricot kernel oil.

[0043] 16. Hair treatment product according to any of the preceding points, wherein the oil phase (II) is substantially free of other oils in addition to a) - d).

[0044] 17. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding items, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one cationic surfactant in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 5 wt% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0045] 18. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one cationic surfactant selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated physiologically acceptable Ci-C24-alkyltri(Ci-O4)-alkylammonium salts, Di-Ci-C24-alkyldi(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts, Tri-Ci-O24-alkyl(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts and / or amidoamines.

[0046] 19. Hair treatment product according to one of the preceding points, wherein the water phase

[0047] (I) at least one cationic surfactant selected from distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylbenzylammonium chloride,

[0048] Tricetylmethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride,

[0049] Contains behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. Hair treatment product according to any of the preceding points, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride). Hair treatment product according to any of points 1 to 18, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one cationic surfactant selected from compounds or mixtures thereof known by the INCI names brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmamidopropyl dimethylamine. Hair treatment product according to point 21, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one C2-Ce polyol in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 5 wt% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding clauses, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains glycerin in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 5 wt% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I). Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding clauses, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one hair fiber repair agent in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10 wt% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I), preferably a. a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate and / or b. alpha-hydroxyoctanal or alpha-hydroxyoctanone and / or c. e-polylysine. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding clauses, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains water in a weight fraction of at least 85 wt%, preferably at least 87.5 wt%, and particularly preferably at least 90 wt% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I). Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding clauses, which is substantially free of cationic polymers.A cosmetic procedure for hair care in which a hair treatment product, applied according to one of the preceding steps after vigorous shaking, is applied (preferably sprayed) to damp or dry hair and left on the hair until the next hair washing. Cosmetic use of a hair treatment product according to one of the preceding steps for hair care. 2024P00239WÖ.

[0050] 6

[0051] 30. Cosmetic use according to point 29 to improve detangling, combability, smoothness, shine and frizz of hair.

[0052] The hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise two optically separated layers (phases) which can be homogenized by shaking, and which separate again in the resting state into two separate, optically recognizable layers with a common interface.

[0053] The emulsion produced by shaking is preferably stable for at least 30 seconds, more preferably at least 1 minute, particularly preferably at least 5 minutes and especially preferably at least 10 minutes before it begins to separate back into the original two layers.

[0054] For rapid mixing and separation of the two layers, it can be advantageous if the water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) have lower viscosity values. Within the scope of the present invention, "lower viscosity values" preferably refer to viscosity values ​​of the water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) of up to a maximum of 1000 mPas each, more preferably 600 mPas, and particularly 400 mPas (measured at 20°C with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm).

[0055] For better visibility of the mixing and separation of the two layers, it may also be advantageous if at least one of the layers (phases) (I) or (II) is transparent.

[0056] Under this condition, sufficient mixing of the two phases can preferably be recognized by the fact that only a single phase is visible, which may be opaque to milky cloudy.

[0057] In particular, at least one of the two phases (I) and (II) is preferably transparent.

[0058] In the context of the present invention, “transparency” means that the water phase (I) and / or the oil phase (II) in the state of rest preferably has an NTU (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit) value of a maximum of 100, preferably of a maximum of 75, more preferably of a maximum of 50 and in particular of a maximum of 25 (measured, for example, with a Turbiquant® type turbidimeter from Merck).

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the water phase (I) is transparent to slightly cloudy and the oil phase (II) of the care phase is milky-creamy.

[0060] For better visualization, one of the two phases (I) or (II), preferably the aqueous phase (I), can be colored with a cosmetically acceptable dye.

[0061] It is further desirable and preferred that the hair treatment products according to the invention are sprayable. 2024P00239WÖ

[0062] 7

[0063] In sprayable form, the hair treatment products according to the invention are suitable for application from a pump dispenser. An advantage of this application method is its simple, clean, and time-saving handling, as the hair treatment products can be evenly distributed as a fine mist from a suitable pump dispenser by simply pressing a pump valve, reaching all areas of the hair.

[0064] This way, the hands do not come into contact with the product and do not need to be cleaned after use.

[0065] For such an application method, the ready-to-use (i.e., homogenized by shaking) hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of at most 1000 mPas, preferably at most 800 mPas, more preferably at most 600 mPas and in particular at most 500 mPas (each measured at 20°C with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm).

[0066] It is also preferred for such an application method that the hair conditioning agents according to the invention are free of propellants.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain a) the water phase (I) in a weight fraction of at least 80 wt.%, preferably at least 85 wt.% and in particular at least 88 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment product and b) the oil phase (II) in a weight fraction of at most 20 wt.%, preferably at most 15 wt.% and in particular at most 12 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment product.

[0068] Within the scope of the present invention, it is further preferred if the water phase (I) contains at least 85 wt.%, preferably at least 87.5 wt.% and in particular at least 90 wt.% water, based on its total weight.

[0069] The oil phase (II) contains – based on its total weight – a) at least 50 wt.% of at least one Cg-Ci₂ isoparaffin; b) up to 40 wt.% of at least one mono- and / or diester of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated O₄-Ci₂ carboxylic acids with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated O₄-O₂₄ mono- or polyols, provided that the at least one mono- or diester has at least one branch in the alcohol or acid moiety; c) up to 15 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil; d) optionally: up to 10 wt.% of at least one perfume. 2024P00239WÖ

[0070] 8

[0071] It was found that hair care products which essentially contain only the previously defined oils a) to d) in the oil phase (II) exhibit particularly satisfactory care benefits.

[0072] An excess of Cg-Ci2-isoalkanes a) in the oil phase results in particularly good spreadability and a light texture of the hair care products (comparable to two-phase products containing cyclomethicones).

[0073] Compared to silicone-free two-phase products containing or based on carbonic acid esters in the oil phase, the advantage was also achieved that, by carefully balancing the amounts of oils a) to d) used in the oil phase (II), no overburdening occurs even with regular use, and the previously described negative interactions do not occur during subsequent treatment with a flat iron.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one O9-Ci2-isoparaffin a) in a weight fraction of at least 55 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 60 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase (II).

[0075] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one ester b) in a weight fraction of up to 35 wt.%, particularly preferably up to 30 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase (II).

[0076] In a further preferred embodiment, hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one vegetable oil c) in a weight fraction of up to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably up to 7.5 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase (II).

[0077] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) - besides the oils a) to d) - essentially no other oils.

[0078] In this context, ‘essentially none’ means that the oil phase (II) preferably contains at most 1 wt.%, more preferably at most 0.5 wt.% and particularly preferably at most 0.1 wt.% of different oils from a) to d).

[0079] O9-Ci2-Isoparfines a) are particularly well suited as silicone substitutes in hair care products due to their ability to give hair shine and softness without weighing it down or causing it to become greasy with regular use. 2024P00239WÖ

[0080] 9

[0081] Examples of suitable C9-Ci2 isoparaffins a) are isononane, isodecane, isosoundecane, isododecane and mixtures thereof. Isododecane is particularly preferred.

[0082] In a particularly preferred embodiment, hair treatment products according to the invention contain isododecane in the oil phase (II) in a weight fraction of at least 50 wt.% of the total weight of the oil phase (II).

[0083] An example of a particularly suitable Cg-Ci2-isoparaffin a) is the commercially available product Purolan® IDD (INCI name: Isododecane).

[0084] Suitable Cg-Ci2 isoparaffins a) can also be used in the oil phase (II) of the compositions according to the invention as a mixture with one or more ester(s) b), for example as the commercial product Lexfeel® D5 (available from Inolex; INCI name: Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Isododecane).

[0085] As a second essential component of the oil phase (II), hair treatment products according to the invention contain b): mono- and / or diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-Ci2 carboxylic acids with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C24 mono- or polyols, with the proviso that the at least one mono- or diester has at least one branch in the alcohol or acid part.

[0086] Esters b) can be easily combined with the Cg-Ci2-isoparaffins a) and the at least one vegetable oil c) in the oil phase (II) and, after mixing with the water phase (I), distributed on the hair without weighing the hair down.

[0087] It was found that branched esters (b) offer unexpected advantages compared to purely unbranched oils. For example, branched esters (b) show a lower tendency – especially with frequent use – to weigh down the hair.

[0088] Furthermore, branched esters (b) penetrate the hair fibers more quickly and provide a long-lasting, light, non-greasy feeling of care.

[0089] At the same time, esters b) form a kind of protective film around the hair fibers due to their branched structure, making hair smoother and more supple and easier to comb. Thus, a significant reduction in frizz is also noticeable after using the products according to the invention.

[0090] Preferred branched esters b) may be selected from esters b1 ) of formula (I) CH3-(CH2)m-(CHR 1 )n-COO-R 2 (I), in the

[0091] R 1 for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Cs alkyl group, m for a number from 3 to 11, n for a number from 0 to 3 and 2024P00239WÖ

[0092] 10

[0093] R 2can represent a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C24 alkyl group, which may contain one or more -OC(O)-, -NHC(O)- or -C(OH)- groups in the chain.

[0094] In more preferred esters b1 ) of the aforementioned formula (I)

[0095] R 1 for a straight-chain Ci-C4 alkyl group, most preferably for a methyl or an ethyl group, m for the numbers 3 to 6, n for the numbers 0 or 1 and

[0096] R 2 for a straight-chain saturated Ci-Cis alkyl group or for a branched saturated Ci-Ci8 alkyl group containing one or more -OC(O)- groups in the chain.

[0097] Particularly preferred esters (b1) according to formula (I) are esters of cross-linked Cs-Cs carboxylic acids and Ci2-C24 monoalcohols, preferably esters of 2-ethylhexyl carboxylic acid and myristyl, cetyl and / or stearyl alcohols and especially esters known under the INCI name cetyl ethylhexanoate.

[0098] Further preferred branched esters b) may be selected from esters b2) of formula (II) CH3-(CH2)m-COO-(CH2)p-(CR 3 R 4 )q-(CH2)rC(O)-O(CH2)m-CH3 (II), where

[0099] - m, n and R 1 have the same meaning as in formula (I), preferably in m for the numbers 3, 4 or 5; n for the number 1 and R 1 stands for a methyl or ethyl group,

[0100] - p and r independently represent the numbers 0, 1, 2 or 3, preferably the number 1 or 2,

[0101] - q represents the numbers 0, 1, 2 or 3, preferably the number 1, and

[0102] - R 3, R 4 independently of each other stand for a Ci-C4 alkyl group, preferably for a methyl group.

[0103] Particularly preferred esters b2) according to formula (II) are neopentyl polyol esters, preferably neopentyl glycol esters and especially esters known under the INCI name neopentyl glycol diheptanoate.

[0104] Esters b2) according to formula (II), preferably neopentyl polyol esters, particularly preferably neopentyl glycol esters, and especially preferably neopentyl glycol diheptanoates, can be added to the oil phase (II) of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, either individually or as a mixture with one or more oil components a) or c). Such mixtures are known and are offered as commercial products, for example under the name Lexfeel®D5 by the company Inolex.

[0105] Particularly preferably, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one ester b1) of formula (I) and at least one ester b2) of formula (II).

[0106] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain in the oil phase (II) as ester b)

[0107] - at least one neopentyl polyol polyester, preferably one neopentyl glycol diester and

[0108] - at least one ester of a cross-linked Cs-Cs carboxylic acid and a Ci2-C24 monoalcohol, preferably esters of 2-ethylhexyl carboxylic acid and myristyl, cetyl and / or stearyl alcohol.

[0109] Within this embodiment, hair treatment products according to the invention are particularly preferred which are in the oil phase (II) as ester b)

[0110] - at least one ester known under the INCI name Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and

[0111] - contain at least one ester known under the INCI name Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate.

[0112] As a third essential component in the oil phase (II), the hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one vegetable oil c). This allows compositions according to the invention to be enriched with ingredients of natural origin, which condition the hair without weighing it down.

[0113] Suitable vegetable oils (c) within the scope of the present invention include amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, rosehip oil, or any mixtures thereof. Apricot kernel oil is a particularly preferred vegetable oil (c).

[0114] To optimize the conditioning properties of the hair treatment products according to the invention, it is advantageous to also add hair conditioning agents to the water phase (I). When selecting these conditioning agents, it must be ensured that they do not negatively affect either the stability of the water phase (I) or the stability of the two-phase product. 2024P00239WÖ

[0115] 12

[0116] Ideally, only conditioning agents that are readily soluble in the water phase (I) and / or that do not increase the viscosity of the water phase to values ​​outside the previously mentioned limits are used in the water phase (I).

[0117] Examples of suitable (care) active ingredients that are advantageously added to the aqueous phase (I) may be selected from cationic surfactants and / or

[0118] Polyols and / or

[0119] Repair agents for hair fibers and / or agents for pH regulation.

[0120] Furthermore, the aqueous phase (I) may contain preservatives, for example benzoic acid and / or a physiologically acceptable salt of benzoic acid, and / or colorants.

[0121] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant in the aqueous phase (I) in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 5 wt.% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0122] Cationic surfactants are particularly preferred in weight fractions of 0.6 to 4 wt.%, most preferably of 0.7 to 3.5 wt.% and especially of 0.75 to 3 wt.% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0123] Cationic surfactants enhance the hair care effect of the hair treatment products according to the invention, in particular the detangling ability, but do not contribute to a prolongation of the emulsification of the oil phase (II) (or parts of the oil phase).

[0124] Suitable cationic surfactants for use in the hair treatment products according to the invention are preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, physiologically compatible Ci-C24-alkyltri(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts, Di-Ci-O24-alkyldi(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts or Tri-Ci-C24-alkyl(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts and / or primary, secondary or tertiary amines containing at least one group R-CO(NH)-(CH2)n-, in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 7 to 21 C atoms and n represents an integer from 1 to 4.

[0125] Particularly preferred Ci-C24-alkyltri(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts, Di-Ci-C24-alkyldi(Ci-O4)-alkylammonium salts or Tri-Ci-C24-alkyl(Ci-C4)-alkylammonium salts are, for example, halide and / or methosulfate salts, in particular chlorides, bromides and methosulfates, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate,

[0126] Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

[0127] Cetyltrimethylammonium and / or are particularly preferred

[0128] Behenyltrimethylammonium salts, especially cetyltrimethylammonium salts, which contain a methosulfate and / or chloride ion as an anion.

[0129] Particularly preferred primary, secondary or tertiary amines containing at least one group R-CO(NH)-(CH2)n-, in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 7 to 21 C atoms, and n represents an integer from 1 to 4, are known under the name “amidoamines”.

[0130] Suitable amidoamines can be present in the hair conditioning agents both as such and (as a result of protonation in a suitably acidic solution) in the form of their respective quaternary compound.

[0131] Non-cationic amidoamines are preferred.

[0132] Particularly suitable amidoamines may be selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine, or mixtures thereof. Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0133] Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is particularly preferred.

[0134] Another suitable cationic surfactant that can be used in the aqueous phase (I) of the hair treatment products according to the invention is a cationic phospholipid (KPL) of the formula wherein

[0135] - R 1 an alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group with 8 to 22 carbon atoms or a

[0136] Acylaminoalkyl group of formula R 5 CONH(C m H2m)- is, in which R 5 CO is a linear acyl group with 8 to 22 carbon atoms and m = 2 or 3,

[0137] - R 2 and R 3 Alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkyl groups with 2 to 4 carbon atoms or carboxyalkyl groups of the formula -(CH2)z-COOM, wherein z has a value of 1 to 3 and M is hydrogen or an alkali metal cation, x has a value of 1 to 3 and y has a value of (3 - x).

[0138] - M hydrogen or an alkali metal cation is and

[0139] - A _ is an anion.

[0140] Particularly preferred KPLs are known and commercially available, for example under the trade names Ariasilk® PTM (INCI name: Myristamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate) or Arlasilk® PTC (INCI name: Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate).

[0141] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain at least one C2-Ce polyol in the aqueous phase (I) in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 5 wt.% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0142] C2-Ce polyols are particularly preferred in weight fractions of 0.6 to 4 wt.%, most preferably of 0.7 to 3.5 wt.% and especially of 0.75 to 3 wt.% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0143] C2-Ce polyols enhance the hair care effect of the hair treatment products according to the invention and prevent foaming of the cationic surfactants.

[0144] Suitable C2-Ce polyols within the meaning of the present invention are preferably understood to be polyols containing in their molecule 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups. Examples of preferred C2-Ce polyols are: ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, isopropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,3-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, sorbitol, or mixtures of these polyols. Particularly preferred are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, diglycerin and / or dipropylene glycol; glycerin is especially preferred.

[0145] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain in the water phase (I) at least one repair agent for hair fibers in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the water phase (I).

[0146] Suitable repair agents for hair fibers include, for example, a. compounds of the following formulas (I) or (II) and / or b. compounds of the following formula (III) and / or

[0147] R 7 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 8 (III) c. e-Polylysine to understand, where in formulas (I), (II) and (III)

[0148] R1-R4 are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group, or a halogen; and Rs and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group, or a heterocyclic group; and

[0149] R1 - R4' are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen, and Rs and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group or a heterocyclic group, excluding that Rs' and Re' are simultaneously hydrogens, the aliphatic hydrocarbon group, the alicyclic hydrocarbon group, the aryl group, the alkylaryl group or the heterocyclic group is substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, one of the R groups 7 or R 8 for H and the other for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 1 to 15 carbon atoms, wherein the carbon chain may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and

[0150] X represents -OH, -NH2, -CI, -Br, -I or the following groupings: -O-(CH2)n-CH3, where n represents the numbers 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2)m-OH, where m represents the numbers 1, 2 or 3.

[0151] Particularly preferred among suitable repair agents for hair fibers are a. mixtures of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate and / or b. alpha-hydroxyoctanal or alpha-hydroxyoctanone and / or c. e-polylysine.

[0152] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention may contain in the aqueous phase (I) active ingredients for pH regulation, preferably acids such as, in particular, acetic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, formic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids, D-lactic acid, L-lactic acid, D / L-lactic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid or bases such as, in particular, sodium hydroxide.

[0153] Advantageously, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain in the aqueous phase (I) active ingredients for pH regulation in amounts of 0.01 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.01 - 3 wt.% and in particular of 0.01 to 2 wt.% (based on the total weight of the hair treatment product).

[0154] Preferably, active ingredients for pH regulation are used in the hair treatment products according to the invention, which, in addition to their function of adjusting the pH value, can also provide positive properties for the hair and / or scalp. In this context, lactic acid, citric acid and / or succinic acid are particularly noteworthy, as these acids can support skin moisture regulation on the scalp, contribute to the repair of hair fibers and, if applicable, support color protection on dyed hair.

[0155] The products according to the invention exhibit the previously described care benefits without the need to add silicones.

[0156] In comparison to previous silicone-free two-phase products, the hair treatment products according to the invention also have the advantage that they do not contain any cationic polymers in the water phase in order to achieve excellent care benefits.

[0157] This not only further increases the biodegradability of the hair treatment products (especially compared to earlier products containing synthetic, so-called "polyquaternium" polymers, for example polyquaternium-16) but also reduces their complexity. The use of cationic polymers of natural origin in the hair treatment products according to the invention—such as cationic guar polymers—has also proven to be beneficial. 2024P00239WÖ

[0158] 17 proved adverse. In particular, in cases where flat irons were used after treatment with cationic guar polymer-containing, silicone-free two-phase products (at temperatures between 190 and 230°C), the hair was sticky, hard, stiff, and the formation of steam and bad odor could be perceived after straightening.

[0159] In a particularly preferred embodiment, hair treatment products according to the invention are therefore essentially free of cationic polymers.

[0160] For the purposes of the present invention, "essentially free" preferably means that the hair treatment compositions contain cationic polymers in a weight fraction of no more than 0.01 wt.% of the total weight of the hair treatment compositions. More preferred are maximum contents of cationic polymers of 0.005 wt.%, further preferred a maximum of 0.001 wt.%, and most preferably 0 wt.%.

[0161] It was found that for particularly good stability of the two phases (I) and (II) of the hair treatment product according to the invention, it is advantageous if they contain only certain surfactants and / or emulsifiers in certain quantities.

[0162] In this context, "stability" means that the two phases quickly separate again after mixing and form a sharp horizontal phase boundary, at which, ideally, no turbidity occurs over a long period of time and under temperature fluctuations.

[0163] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain a maximum of 1 wt.%, more preferably a maximum of 0.8 wt.%, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.6 wt.% and in particular a maximum of 0.5 wt.% anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or non-ionic surfactants (based on the total weight of the hair treatment product).

[0164] Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair treatment products according to the invention do not contain anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or non-ionic surfactants.

[0165] As already stated earlier in this application, it is not necessary to add further components (oils and fats) to the oil phase (II) for the conditioning effect and the stability of the hair treatment products according to the invention.

[0166] In particular, silicones can be omitted.

[0167] Perfume oils are not to be included among the aforementioned oils and fats in this context. 2024P00239WÖ

[0168] 18

[0169] The hair conditioning agents according to the invention preferably have a pH value in the range of 2 to 7, preferably from 2.5 to 6, particularly preferably 3 to 5 and especially 3 to 4.5.

[0170] In addition to their aesthetic appearance, the two-layer hair treatment products according to the invention have the advantage of being easy to use and simple to manufacture. The special combination of active ingredients in the water and oil phases of the hair treatment products ensures rapid mixing of the two layers before application and rapid separation of the two layers after application. The hydrophilic phase is predominantly water-based, which meets consumer needs. Furthermore, the hair treatment products according to the invention are particularly suitable for hair care. The presence of (cyclic) silicones is not required for either the stability or the conditioning properties of the hair treatment products, as the hair treatment products according to the invention exhibit comparable conditioning benefits on treated hair compared to products containing silicones.In particular, the detangling, combability, smoothness, shine, and frizz of the hair were significantly improved. The hair treatment products according to the invention are sprayable and suitable for application from a pump dispenser. This makes them easy to use and effective, as the fine mist dispensed from the pump reaches all areas of the hair.

[0171] A second object of the invention is a cosmetic method for the care of hair, in which a hair treatment agent is applied (preferably sprayed) to the moist or dry hair after vigorous shaking according to one of the preceding points and left on the hair until the next hair washing.

[0172] A third object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the hair treatment agent according to the invention for the care of hair, in particular for improving the detangling ability, combability, smoothness, shine and frizz of hair.

[0173] The statements made regarding the means according to the invention apply to the method and use according to the invention.

[0174] The following examples are intended to describe the subject matter of the invention in more detail, without limiting it to that.

[0175] Examples:

[0176] The following compositions according to the invention EZ (VI) and the comparison compositions VZ (I) - (V) were produced.

[0177] VZ (I), (II) are in accordance with (WO 2020 / 126219).

[0178] All quantities are given in % by weight (in the entire composition):

[0179] Application tests revealed that VZ (I) and (II) resulted in less effective detangling of the hair compared to EZ (VI). Furthermore, after repeated use, hair became overloaded (especially with VZ (II)). Additionally, their biodegradability is not yet satisfactory. VZ (III) and (IV) showed better conditioning results (particularly improved detangling) than VZ (I) and (II), but they are disadvantageous if, after the

[0180] Hair straightening treatments may occur if the hair is used on a flat iron. Straightened hair may become sticky, hard, and stiff, and steam and an unpleasant odor may be noticeable.

[0181] VZ (V) shows better conditioning results (especially improved detangling, less frizz) than VZ (III) and (IV), however, a slight degree of overburdening was still observed after regular use. EZ (VI) shows excellent conditioning potential (especially detangling, combability, smoothness, shine, and frizz). No overburdening of the hair was observed. EZ (VI) is stable and spreads very well on the hair.

[0182] Further compositions EZ (VII) to (X) according to the invention can be found in the following table:

[0183] INCI name: Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate and Isododecane (Inolex)

[0184] INCI name: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Lubrizole)

[0185] Dicaprylic Carbonate (BASF)

[0186] INCI name: Myristamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride Phosphate (Croda)

[0187] INCI name: Cocamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride Phosphate (Croda)

Claims

2024P00239WÖ 21 Patent claims:

1. Hair treatment composition with two superimposed layers and a common interface, comprising a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), wherein the oil phase contains – based on its total weight –: a) at least 50 wt.% of at least one Cg-Ci2 isoparaffin; b) up to 40 wt.% of at least one mono- and / or diester of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated O4-Ci2 carboxylic acids with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated O4-O24 mono- or polyols, provided that the at least one mono- or diester has at least one branch in the alcohol or acid moiety; c) up to 15 wt.% of at least one vegetable oil; d) optionally: up to 10 wt.% of at least one perfume.

2. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, comprising as Cg-Ci2-isoparaffin a) isononane, isodecane, isosoundecane, isododecane and mixtures thereof.

3. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising as ester b) b1) at least one ester of 2-ethylhexyl carboxylic acid and myristyl, cetyl and / or stearyl alcohol and / or b2) at least one neopentyl polyol polyester.

4. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oil phase (II) is substantially free of other oils in addition to a) - d).

5. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one cationic surfactant in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 5 wt.% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

6. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one Cg-Ce polyol in a weight fraction of 0.5 to 5 wt. % of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

7. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase (I) contains at least one hair fiber repair agent in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

8. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the water phase (I) contains water in a weight fraction of at least 85 wt.% of the total weight of the water phase (I).

9. Hair treatment composition according to any of the preceding claims, which is substantially free of cationic polymers.

10. Cosmetic use of a hair treatment product according to any of the preceding claims for the care of hair to improve detangling, combability, smoothness, shine and frizz of hair.

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