Cosmetic process for treating hair, comprising the application of a composition comprising a dipeptide and a surfactant

Abstract

The present invention concerns a cosmetic process for treating hair comprising the application of a composition T comprising: a) one or more dipeptides; and b) one or more surfactants.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Cosmetic process for treating hair, comprising the application of a composition comprising a dipeptide and a surfactant

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating hair, comprising the application of a composition T comprising one or more dipeptides and one or more surfactants.

[0004] Technical field

[0005] Human hair is exposed to water for a significant portion of its lifetime. The characteristics and consequences of the interaction between water hardness metals and human hair, a chemically reactive substrate, is less explored. Consumers often implicate the use of hard water on hair for its brittleness and breakage and one of the reasons for excessive hair fall. Deposits of calcium and magnesium on hair impacts the surface properties of hair. Similarly, copper is catalytically active and is known to impact care traits.

[0006] Hard water can have a noticeable impact on hair health, often contributing to dryness, breakage, and a lackluster appearance. Hard water contains a higher concentration of dissolved minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium. The minerals in hard water can accumulate on the hair shaft, creating a rough, brittle texture. This buildup hinders moisture absorption, leaving hair feeling dry and coarse. These minerals can also react with hair care products, particularly shampoos and conditioners. This reaction can form a soapy residue that's difficult to rinse away, further contributing to dryness and dullness. For those with color-treated hair, hard water can be particularly troublesome. The minerals can strip away color molecules, leading to faster fading and brassiness.

[0007] While copper is an essential trace mineral for overall health, including hair growth, an excess of copper can contribute to hair damage. Copper plays a role in the production of melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color. However, high copper levels can interfere with the formation of keratin, a key protein that provides hair its strength and structure. This disruption can lead to weaker hair that is more prone to breakage. Copper imbalance can disrupt the normal hair growth cycle. While the exact mechanisms are complex, excess copper may shorten the anagen (growth) phase of hair follicles, leading to slower hair growth and even hair loss. High copper levels can contribute to oxidative stress by increasing the production of free radicals. These unstable molecules can damage hair cells and contribute to premature aging of the hair, making it look dull, brittle, and more susceptible to breakage.

[0008] Metal chelants, also known as chelating agents, play a fascinating and rather crucial role in hair care products, especially when it comes to maintaining hair health and enhancing the performance of the products themselves. As mentioned earlier, hard water, laden with minerals like calcium, copper and magnesium, can wreak havoc on hair. Metal chelants bind to these minerals and neutralize their negative effects. This prevents mineral buildup on hair, reducing dryness, dullness, and breakage. For those with color-treated hair, metal chelants are particularly beneficial. They help prevent minerals from interacting with hair dye molecules, which can lead to color fading and unwanted brassy tones. By neutralizing these minerals, chelating agents help preserve color vibrancy and extend the life of the hair color.

[0009] In essence, metal chelants are essential components of many hair care products, working behind the scenes to combat the negative effects of hard water, preserve color vibrancy, and boost the overall effectiveness of the hair care routine.

[0010] However, the effectiveness of metal chelants can vary depending on the specific metal they are targeting.

[0011] There is therefore a need to develop a cosmetic process for treating hair that has the advantage of chelating a broad spectrum of metals, which confers very good surface properties, notably in terms of the required combing force and the required frictional force to the hair, which does not damage the color of color-treated hair and which gives to the hair good cosmetic properties, and a uniform coating from the root to the end.

[0012] In addition, the accumulation of the metal ions or salts can accelerate the damage caused to the hair because they catalyse oxidation / reduction reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals HO° which can be harmful to the keratin fibre, including at low contents.

[0013] This can result in a photodegradation of the fibre, in a lightening of the fibre, and also in a detrimental change in the properties of the hair, which can result in premature breakage of the individual hair; these phenomena are very particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or dyeing products.

[0014] In other words, the hair can become less resistant, more weakened, indeed even break more easily, or also lose its sheen, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metal salts. There thus exists a real need to have available compositions which make it possible to combat the accumulation, in the hairs on head, of metal ions, especially of calcium, copper and / or magnesium ions, in particular resulting from minerals and metal salts dissolved in water, in order to limit the negative impacts and to overcome all of the abovementioned disadvantages, in particular on sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0015] Thus, the object of the present invention is to develop a cosmetic process for treating hair that makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.

[0016] Disclosure of the invention

[0017] The present invention concerns a cosmetic process for treating hair comprising the application of a composition T comprising: a) one or more dipeptides; and b) one or more surfactants;

[0018] Thanks to the cosmetic process according to the invention, the treated hair shows significantly better surface properties, in particular a reduction of the required combing force and a reduction of the required frictional force.

[0019] The expression "at least one " means one or more.

[0020] Unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in that domain, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... at... ».

[0021] The invention is not limited to illustrated examples. In particular, the characteristics of the different examples can be combined within variants not shown.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair on the head. This invention does not include / encompass the cosmetic treatment of the skin (such as the skin of body, face or head, including the scalp) or of the body or face hairs (such as eyebrows or eyelashes).

[0023] Dipeptide

[0024] Composition T used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more dipeptides.

[0025] The term “dipeptide” means a molecule composed of two amino acids linked together by a peptide bond. The peptide bond is a chemical connection that forms between the carboxyl group (-COOH) of one amino acid and the amine group (-NH2) of the other, with the release of a water molecule. Advantageously, the dipeptide(s) consist(s) of two amino acids, identical or different, chosen from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophane, tyrosine, valine, and mixtures thereof.

[0026] Advantageously, the dipeptide(s) consist(s) of two amino acids chosen from alanine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, tyrosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably two amino acids chosen from glutamic acid, glycine, or mixtures thereof, more preferably the two amino acids are glutamic acid and glycine.

[0027] Advantageously, the dipeptide(s) is(are) chosen from glycyl-L-tyrosine, glycyl-L-glutamic acid, L-alanyl-L-glutamine, glycyl-glycine, lysyl-lysine, glycyl - alanine, glycyl-lysine, glycyl-histidine, and mixtures thereof, preferably the dipeptide is glycyl-L-glutamic acid.

[0028] The dipeptide may be in the form of a salt.

[0029] Advantageously, the total content of the dipeptide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0030] Surfactants

[0031] Composition T used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0032] Advantageously, the surfactants are chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Non-ionic surfactants

[0034] Composition T may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0035] Advantageously, composition T comprises one or more non-ionic surfactant, preferably two or more non-ionic surfactants, more preferably three or more non-ionic surfactants, even more preferably, the composition T used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises three non-ionic surfactants.

[0036] Said non-ionic surfactants may be chosen from:

[0037] - alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and particularly from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C40 alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains;

[0038] - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;

[0039] - poly ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;

[0040] - ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan (or oxyethylenated sorbitan ester), preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units;

[0041] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0042] - polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters having from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0043] - N-(Ce-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives;

[0044] - amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides;

[0045] - non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

[0046] Non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type may be represented by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0047] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0048] - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0049] - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0050] - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;

[0051] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0052] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are of the formula described above in which:

[0053] - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R.2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0054] - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0055] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0056] - it being possible for the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, to range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

[0057] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl (poly)gly coside surfactant is an alkyl (poly)glucoside surfactant. 1,4 Cs / Ci6 alkyl(poly)glucosides, and particularly decyl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

[0058] The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that can be used in the context of the invention particularly comprise the oxyethylenated derivatives of Cs-Cso fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units. Use is preferably made of the oxyethylenated derivatives of C12-C24 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.

[0059] Such compounds also known under the name of polysorbates. They are, inter alia, sold under the name Tween by the company Uniqema.

[0060] Mention may particularly be made of oxy ethylene sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 21, oxy ethylene sorbitan monolaurate with 20 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 20, oxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate with 20 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 40, oxy ethylene sorbitan monostearate with 20 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 60, oxyethylene sorbitan monostearate with 4 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 61, oxy ethylene sorbitan tristearate with 20 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 65, oxyethylene sorbitan monooleate with 20 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 80, oxy ethylene sorbitan monooleate with 5 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 81, oxy ethylene sorbitan trioleate with 20 EO, for example sold under the name TWEEN 85.

[0061] In the present document, and in a manner well known per se, a “compound with X EO” denotes an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxy ethylene units per molecule.

[0062] Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular a C12-C24 saturated fatty acid.

[0063] The preferred sorbitan esters are the oxyethylenated derivatives of C12-C24 fatty acid monoesters of sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferentially oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO, oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate with 20 EO, oxy ethylene sorbitan monostearate with 20 EO, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides; oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from C12-C24 saturated fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C40 alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0066] Anionic surfactant

[0067] Composition T may comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

[0068] Advantageously, composition T comprises one or more anionic surfactant, preferably two or more anionic surfactants, more preferably three or more anionic surfactants, even more preferably four or more anionic surfactants, even better still composition T comprises four anionic surfactants.

[0069] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0070] In the present description, a species is “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition used in the context of the process of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge. The anionic surfactants are non-silicone.

[0071] The anionic surfactants may be sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

[0072] It is understood in the present description that:

[0073] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO') and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfonate functions; and - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (- SO3H or -SO3 ) and do not comprise any carboxylate functions.

[0074] Advantageously, the composition T is free (0%) of sulfated surfactants.

[0075] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO').

[0076] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl)ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, in pairtcular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0077] Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

[0078] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the Akypo names.

[0079] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0080] Ri’-(OC2H4)n’-OCH2COOA (1) in which:

[0081] - Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cs- C9)alkylphenyl radical, an R2 CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2’ denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably Rr is a C8-C20, preferably Cs-Cis, alkyl radical;

[0082] - n’ is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0083] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different r groups.

[0084] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:

[0085] - Rr denotes a linear or branched C8-C22, in particular C10-C16, or even C12- C14, alkyl radical, or else a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical;

[0086] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0087] - n’ ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0088] More preferentially still, use is made of compounds of formula (1) in which Rr denotes a C12-C14 alkyl radical or cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n’ ranges from 2 to 10.

[0089] Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by the company Kao under the names:

[0090] Akypo® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)

[0091] Akypo® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)

[0092] Akypo® OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)

[0093] Akypo® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)

[0094] Akypo® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)

[0095] Akypo® RLM 38 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = H)

[0096] Akypo® RLM 38 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = Na)

[0097] Akypo® RLM 45 CA (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)

[0098] Akypo® RLM 45 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na)

[0099] Akypo® RLM 100 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = H)

[0100] Akypo® RLM 100 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = Na)

[0101] Akypo® RLM 130 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 13, A = H)

[0102] Akypo® RLM 160 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 16, A = Na), or by the company Sandoz under the names:

[0103] Sandopan DTC-Acid (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = H)

[0104] Sandopan DTC (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = Na)

[0105] Sandopan LS 24 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 12, A = Na)

[0106] Sandopan JA 36 (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 18, A = H), and more particularly the products sold under the following names: Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), Akypo®RLM 100, and Akypo® RLM 38.

[0107] Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0108] - in particular (C6-C24) acylglutamates or even (Ci2-C2o)acylglutamates, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0109] - in particular (Ce-C24)acylsarcosinates or even (Cio-Ci8)acylsarcosinates, such as lauroylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium lauroylsarcosinate;

[0110] - in particular (Ci2-C28)acyllactylate or even (Ci4-C24)acyllactylates, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0111] - (C6-C24 )acylglycinates and in particular (C12-C20 )acylglycinates;

[0112] - (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and particularly (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0113] - polyoxyalkylenated (Ce-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0114] Polyoxyalkylenated (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof are preferably used.

[0115] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N- acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly from 6 to 24, even better still from 8 to 20 or even from 10 to 18 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0116] Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen from:

[0117] (Ce-C24)alkyl sulfosuccinates and in particular (C10-C20) alkylsulfosuccinates; - (C6-C24) olefin sulfonates and in particular (C12-C20) olefin sulfonates;

[0118] - (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and in particular (C10-C20) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular laureth sulfoccinate;

[0119] - (Ce-C24)acyli sethi onates and preferably (Cio-Ci8)acylisethionates, in particular cocoylisethionate;

[0120] - (Ce-C24)alkyl sulfoacetates and preferably (Cio-Ci8)alkylsulfoacetates, in particular laurylsulfoacetate;

[0121] - and mixtures thereof; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0122] Advantageously, the composition T comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from :

[0123] (Ce-C24)alkyl sulfosuccinates and in particular (C10-C20) alkylsulfosuccinates;

[0124] - (C6-C24) olefin sulfonates and in particular (C12-C20) olefin sulfonates;

[0125] - (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and in particular (C10-C20) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0126] - (Ce-C24)acyli sethi onates and in particular (Cio-Ci8)acylisethionates;

[0127] - (Ce-C24)acylsarcosinates and in particular (Cio-C2o)acylsarcosinates;

[0128] - (Ce-C24)alkyl sulfoacetates and in particular (Cio-Ci8)alkylsulfoacetates;

[0129] - (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and in particular (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0130] - and mixtures thereof; in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, preferably from (Ce-C24)acyli sethi onates, and in particular (C10- Ci8)acylisethionates, (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, and in particular (C10-C20) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (Cio-C2o)acylsarcosinates, (Cio-Ci8)alkylsulfoacetates, and mixtures thereof, in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal, such as sodium or disodium, or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, even more preferably from sodium cocoyl isethionate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 28% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 26% by weight, even more preferably from 12% to 24% by weight, better still from 18% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0131] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant

[0132] Composition T may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0133] Advantageously, composition T comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably two or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, more preferably composition T comprises two amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0134] The term “amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.

[0135] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the context of the invention are non-silicone.

[0136] Mention may in particular be made, alone or as a mixture, of (Cs- C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.

[0137] They may also be chosen from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0138] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (A), (B) and (C) below:

[0139] (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X in which:

[0140] - Rarepresents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0141] - Rb represents a P-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0142] - Re represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0143] - X' represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X' are absent;

[0144] (B) Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') in which:

[0145] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;

[0146] - B’ represents the group -(CH2)ZY’, with z = 1 or 2;

[0147] - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;

[0148] - Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;

[0149] - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0150] - Ra’ represents a C 10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, particularly a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

[0151] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodi acetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0152] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0153] (C) Ra"-NHCH(Y")-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n-N(Rd)(Re) in which:

[0154] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0155] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0156] - Ra" represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;

[0157] - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0158] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (C) such as the salts, particularly the sodium salt, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0159] Advantageously, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0,1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0161] Cationic surfactant

[0162] Composition T may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0163] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the compositions according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the compositions according to the invention.

[0164] The cationic surfactants are advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may notably be made of:

[0166] ■ the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): in which: the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for the aliphatic groups to include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and

[0167] X' is an anion chosen notably from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0168] The aliphatic groups Rs to Rn may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- Ce)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0169] Mention may notably be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, notably chlorides, such as dialkyl dimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group includes from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.

[0170] Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, and notably chlorides; notably the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (Ila): in which:

[0171] R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

[0172] R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0173] R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0174] R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X' is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0175] Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.

[0176] ■ the di- or tri quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Illa): in which:

[0177] - Rie denotes an alkyl group including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

[0178] - R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a); Ri6a, Ri7a and Risa, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0179] - Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0180] - X' is an anion, chosen notably from the group of the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0181] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex.

[0182] ■ the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (IVa) below: in which:

[0183] - R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl groups and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups, - R.23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,

[0184] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,

[0185] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,

[0186] - r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

[0187] - rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,

[0188] - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

[0189] - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,

[0190] - X' is an anion, it being understood that r2 + rl = 2r and tl + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15, with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29.

[0191] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0192] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0193] When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0194] When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0195] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0196] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0197] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0198] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0199] The anion X' is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.

[0200] Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which:

[0201] - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

[0202] - x and y are equal to 1,

[0203] - z is equal to 0 or 1,

[0204] - r, s and t are equal to 2,

[0205] - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom,

[0206] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,

[0207] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0208] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0209] Among the compounds of formula (IVa), mention may be made of the salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyl oxy ethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, monoacyl oxy ethyldihydroxy ethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0210] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures notably of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Evonik.

[0211] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

[0212] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0213] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines.

[0214] The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0215] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0216] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quatemized.

[0217] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0218] Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (Va) below:

[0219] RCONHR”N(R’)2 (Va) in which:

[0220] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5- C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;

[0221] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0222] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon- based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0223] The fatty amidoamines of formula (Va) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by Inolex

[0224] Chemical Company under the name Lexamine SI 3, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0225] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0226] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (la), (IVa) or (Va), better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof; better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0227] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0228] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (la), (IVa) and (Va), and better still from those of formula (la), ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0229] Preferably, the surfactants are chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Advantageously, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; optionally, it may comprise in addition one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0231] Advantageously, the total content of surfactants ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0232] Advantageously, the total content of surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0233] Wei ht ratio

[0234] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the surfactant(s) and the total content of the dipeptide(s) in the composition T is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranges from 1 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20, even more preferably from 10 to 15.

[0235] Silicone

[0236] Composition T may comprise one or more silicones.

[0237] Advantageously, composition T comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof, more preferably composition T comprises one or more amino silicones and one or more non- amino silicones.

[0238] Amino silicone

[0239] Composition T may comprise one or more amino silicones. The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0240] The amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or nonvolatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5 x 10'6to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1 x 10'5to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from nonvolatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

[0241] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:

[0242] A) the poly siloxanes corresponding to formula (la): in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g / mol;

[0243] B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (Ila):

[0244] R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a’-R’a’ (Ila) in which:

[0245] - G, which is identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy, group;

[0246] - a and a’, which are identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one of a and a’ is equal to zero,

[0247] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0248] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

[0249] - R’, which is identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -NR”-Q-N(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A’, -N+H(R”)2A’, -N+H2(R”) A’, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2A’, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A- and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A', in which R”, which is identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A' represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, particularly a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0250] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (Ila) may be chosen from:

[0251] (i) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149 and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10;

[0252] (ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below: in which:

[0253] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and particularly from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2 and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or Ci- C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0254] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0255] The hydroxyl / alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1 and preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3: 1.

[0256] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol;

[0257] (iii) the silicones of formula (V) below: in which:

[0258] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, particularly from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0259] - Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0260] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0261] The hydroxyl / alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1 :0.8 to 1 : 1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly is equal to 1 :0.95.

[0262] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100 000 g / mol and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g / mol.

[0263] The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0264] When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil- in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker;

[0265] (iv) the silicones of formula (VI) below: in which:

[0266] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

[0267] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0268] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0269] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Coming;

[0270] (v) the silicones of formula (VII) below: in which:

[0271] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

[0272] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0273] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0274] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0275] C) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII): in which:

[0276] - Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0277] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, particularly a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via a SiC bond;

[0278] - Q’ is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride, or an organic acid salt, particularly acetate; - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; and

[0279] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

[0280] D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX): in which:

[0281] - R7, which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbonbased radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0282] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, particularly a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0283] - Rs, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci- Ci8 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -Re-NHCOR? radical;

[0284] - X' is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride, or an organic acid salt, particularly acetate; and

[0285] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0286] These silicones are for example described in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0287] Silicones falling within this category are the silicones sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

[0288] E) the amino silicones of formula (X): in which:

[0289] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which are identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0290] - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0291] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0292] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0293] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0294] F) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group.

[0295] Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[0296] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’ ’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’-N(H)-R-] or else

[0297] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R”)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0298] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0299] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0300] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0301] - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0302] - R, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which are identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R’, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which are identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0303] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0304] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0305] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0306] Mention may particularly be made of the silicones sold under the name Sil soft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0307] G) the amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII): in which:

[0308] - R, R’ and R”, which are identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0309] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0310] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000; in which:

[0311] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0312] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0313] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0314] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0315] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0316] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0317] - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0318] - y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0319] - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and particularly 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0320] - Ri and R2 independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particularly chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, Ri and R.2, which are identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0321] A silicone of formula (XII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive.

[0322] H) polysiloxanes and particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV),

[0323] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55 000.

[0324] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS- 191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0325] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0326] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0327] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50 000. As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Coming.

[0328] The composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to formula (XVIII) below: in which:

[0329] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

[0330] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

[0331] - R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0332] - R” is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and

[0333] - R’”, which are identical or different, preferably identical, are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; it being possible for said radicals optionally to be substituted with one or more hydroxyl OH groups.

[0334] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; particularly a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0335] Preferably, R” is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, particularly from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical. Preferably, the R’”, which are identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, C13, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially, the R’”, which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly C13, C14 or C15 radicals, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0336] Preferably, the R’” are identical.

[0337] Preferentially, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0338] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0339] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0340] - R’”, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from

[0341] 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0342] - R’ is a divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0343] - R” is a linear divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0344] Even better still, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0345] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0346] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0347] - R’”, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from

[0348] 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0349] - R’ is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and

[0350] - R” is a -(CH2)2- radical.

[0351] A most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may particularly be made of the silicone sold under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioning Agent by Dow.

[0352] Advantageously, when they are present, amino silicone(s) are present in the composition T in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T. Non-amino silicone

[0353] Composition T may comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), and volatile or nonvolatile. Preferably, the non- amino silicones are chosen from nonvolatile liquid silicones.

[0354] The non-amino silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may be in oil, wax, resin or gum form; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0355] Silicones are particularly described in detail in Walter Noll’s “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press.

[0356] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure, 1 atm) and in particular from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

[0357] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;

[0358] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

[0359] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

[0360] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of 1,1’- oxy(2, 2, 2’, 2’, 3, 3’ -hexatrimethylsilyloxy )bisneopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5* 10’6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0361] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32 - Todd & Byers Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics,' mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Among the nonvolatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and particularly polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0362] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, particularly polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0363] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

[0364] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including Ce- C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and particularly those sold by the company Dow Coming under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols, and particularly those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

[0365] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

[0366] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

[0367] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

[0368] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

[0369] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or else of the 2-hydroxy alkyl sulfonate or 2- hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255. The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethyl silyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

[0370] - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0371] - the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

[0372] - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s;

[0373] - the Viscasil® oils from Momentive Performance Materials and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from Momentive Performance Materials.

[0374] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0375] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydi(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.

[0376] Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

[0377] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxyl-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.

[0378] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from I * 10'5to 5* 10'2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0379] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

[0380] - the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

[0381] - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0382] - the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming;

[0383] - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0384] - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PHlOOO; - certain oils of the SF series from Momentive Performance Materials, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0385] The non-amino silicones that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0386] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of non-amino silicone(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0387] Advantageously, the silicone(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from nonvolatile liquid non-amino silicones, preferably from polydialkysiloxanes and more preferably from poly dimethylsiloxanes; and / or nonvolatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones, and also mixtures thereof.

[0388] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of silicone(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0389] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of silicone(s) chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0390] Non-silicone fatty substance

[0391] Composition T may comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances, which can be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0392] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds.

[0393] The term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x io5Pa).

[0394] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated. The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0395] “Fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are particularly chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are other than the (poly)hydroxylated carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms described previously.

[0396] “Fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R- OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated, and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0397] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0398] - myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol);

[0399] - cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol);

[0400] - stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol);

[0401] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0402] - behenyl alcohol (or 1 -docosanol);

[0403] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0404] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0405] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0406] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0407] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0408] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0409] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0410] Mention may particularly be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0411] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, particularly myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, particularly myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0412] Particularly preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0413] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than approximately 40°C and which may be up to 200°C, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a relatively opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0414] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0415] Mention may particularly be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0416] Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Micro wax HW.

[0417] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0418] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains.

[0419] Among these waxes, mention may particularly be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, particularly the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0420] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is particularly sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by Koster Keunen.

[0421] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may particularly be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0422] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter, shea butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0423] Ceramides, or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0424] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: in which: - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0425] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)ngroup, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0426] - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0427] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0428] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear C15 group.

[0429] Use may also be made of the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbonbased radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0430] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N- palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N- behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-l,3- diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3 -diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N- cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Use will preferably be made of N- oleoyldihydrosphingosine. As liquid fatty substances that may be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, mineral oils and mixtures thereof.

[0431] The liquid fatty substances have a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably of less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x io5Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0432] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly have at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0433] The liquid hydrocarbons may be Ce to Cis liquid hydrocarbons and be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably chosen from Cs-Ci6, particularly Cio- Cu, alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0434] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0435] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0436] The liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0437] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may particularly be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26, aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26, aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0438] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid, from which the esters of the invention are derived, is branched.

[0439] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2- hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0440] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0441] Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0442] Mention may particularly be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate, glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that “sugar” means oxygencontaining hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0443] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, particularly alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

[0444] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen particularly from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0445] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0446] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, particularly such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

[0447] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and particularly sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0448] Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0449] Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.

[0450] Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid Ce-Cis hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from esters of monocarboxylic acid and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0451] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0452] Cationic polymer

[0453] Composition T may comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0454] The cationic polymers are non-silicone (not comprising any silicone atoms).

[0455] They are different from the dipeptide and from the cationic surfactants previously described.

[0456] The term “cationic polymer” denotes any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0457] The cationic polymers that may be employed preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0458] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under the conditions in which the latter is completely ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0459] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5* 106approximately and preferably between 103and 3* 106approximately.

[0460] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:

[0461] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae: in which:

[0462] - R3, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0463] - A, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0464] - R4, R5 and R6, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0465] - R1 and R2, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0466] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0467] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0468] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0469] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0470] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxy ethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, - quatemized or non-quatemized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0471] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

[0472] - polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.

[0473] Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0474] (2) cationic polysaccharides, particularly cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

[0475] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums. The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are particularly described in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0476] Mention may particularly be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0477] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described particularly in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses particularly grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, it being possible for the the quatemizing agent to particularly be diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0478] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0479] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may particularly be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0480] The cationic galactomannan gums are particularly described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, particularly those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0481] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, use may be made of guar gums modified with 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride. Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are particularly sold under the names Jaguar C 13 S, Jaguar Cl 5, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Solvay.

[0482] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, particularly those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0483] (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0484] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.

[0485] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0486] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxy- propyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0487] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): in which

[0488] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + 1 being equal to 1;

[0489] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0490] - Rio and Rn, independently of one another, denote a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a Ci- Cs hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rw and Rn, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0491] - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0492] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name polyquaternium- 6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name polyquatemium-7), particularly sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;

[0493] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula: in which:

[0494] - R13, R14, RIS and Ri6, which are identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals; or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen; or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0495] - Al and Bl represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0496] - X' denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bl may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC- (CH2)p- with n and p, which are identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)X-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2- S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0497] Preferably, X' is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[0498] These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

[0499] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula: in which Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and

[0500] X' is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0501] A particularly preferred compound is that for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0502] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula: in which:

[0503] - Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0504] - r and s, which are identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0505] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0506] - X~ denotes an anion, such as a halide, - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O- CH2-CH2-.

[0507] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0508] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

[0509] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

[0510] (12) polymers including in their structure:

[0511] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0512] — CHj — CH —

[0513] NH2

[0514] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

[0515] In other words, these polymers may be particularly chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0516] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0517] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

[0518] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0519] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are particularly sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010. Advantageously, the cationic polymers that may be employed in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture:

[0520] - cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, of family (7), such as Polyquaternium-7;

[0521] - cationic polysaccharides, particularly cationic celluloses, such as Polyquatemium-10; and cationic galactomannan gums, particularly cationic guar gums.

[0522] Advantageously, when they are present, the cationic polymer(s) are present in the composition T in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0523] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of cationic polymer(s) chosen from the polymers of family (7) and cationic polysaccharides, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0524] Polyol

[0525] Composition T may also comprise one or more polyols.

[0526] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0527] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups. They preferably comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0528] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane-1, 2- diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane-1, 2- diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0529] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) ranges from 0.01% to 45% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 6% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0530] Thickeners

[0531] Composition T may also comprise one or more thickeners, particularly aqueous-phase thickeners (or hydrophilic thickeners).

[0532] The terms “thickener” or “aqueous-phase thickener” means a compound which increases the viscosity of the phase, particularly aqueous phase for “aqueous- phase thickener”, into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight by at least 20 cPs (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cPs (50 mPa.s), the viscosity being measured at 25°C, 1 atm, at a shear rate of Is'1(the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0533] The thickener is other than the ingredients described above.

[0534] The thickener may advantageously be chosen from non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof. Better still, the thickener may advantageously be chosen from anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof.

[0535] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit” means an oxygen-comprising hydrocarbon-based compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0536] The sugar units can be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0537] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the aqueous-phase thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose. Mention may particularly be made, as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, of native gums, such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, such as:

[0538] - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0539] - ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

[0540] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0541] - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae, such as:

[0542] - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

[0543] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);

[0544] - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, such as:

[0545] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0546] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0547] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0548] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0549] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, such as:

[0550] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0551] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0552] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) plant extracts, such as:

[0553] - cellulose (glucose polymer);

[0554] - starch (glucose polymer) and

[0555] - inulin.

[0556] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified.

[0557] As physical treatment, mention may be made of temperature. As chemical treatment, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may particularly be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0558] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0559] The non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with Ci-Ce (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0560] Among the Ci-Ce (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0561] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0562] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0563] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0564] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0565] The starches may be chemically or physically modified, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0566] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA- 70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0567] According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic type. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0568] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, particularly such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0569] The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose- based polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0570] According to the invention, the term "cellulose" polymer means any polysaccharide compound having, in its structure, sequences of glucose residues joined via P-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives other than the polymers described above can be anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0571] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0572] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters are distinguished.

[0573] Among the cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic esters of cellulose (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, for example), and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0574] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers not bearing a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e. “non-associative” cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aquaion) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aquaion); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0575] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Mention may be made, by way of example, of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aquaion) and carboxymethylhydroxy ethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

[0576] Among the non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the acrylamide copolymers thereof, alone or as mixtures, it being possible for said polymers to be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.

[0577] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers that is suitable for use is represented by acrylic acid homopolymers, preferably crosslinked.

[0578] Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VS A. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.

[0579] The non-associative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.

[0580] The non-associative thickening polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.

[0581] Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document as regards these polymers.

[0582] Preferably, the thickener(s) may be chosen from polymers not comprising sugar units, in particular from crosslinked or uncrosslinked non-associative thickening polymers bearing acrylic or methacrylic units; in particular from acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, more preferably from crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, alone or as mixtures; even more preferably from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, particularly crosslinked by a pentaerythrityl allyl ether, a sucrose allyl ether or a propylene allyl ether.

[0583] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of thickener(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

[0584] Water

[0585] Advantageously, composition T comprises water.

[0586] Advantageously, when it is present, the total content of water ranges from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 50 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T

[0587] Additives

[0588] Composition T may comprise one or more adjuvants or additives usually used in cosmetics.

[0589] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition include reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, peptizers, fragrances, vitamins, polymers different from the polymers previously described, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0590] The skilled party may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.

[0591] The above additives may generally be present in content between 0 and 20% by weight between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition T.

[0592] Preferably, composition T used in the context of the process according to the invention is a shampoo, a conditioner or a hair mask.

[0593] Process

[0594] This cosmetic hair treatment process is more particularly a process for caring the hair, particularly a process for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair. The application on the hair of the composition T can be carried out on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened, preferably on wet hair.

[0595] The application of the composition T can be carried out at room temperature (between 15 to 25°C).

[0596] The application step may be followed by a leave-on time of the composition that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

[0597] The application step according to the invention may be followed, after the possible leave-on time, by a step of rinsing the composition, for example with water.

[0598] Preferably, the application step is followed by a rinsing step, more preferably with water.

[0599] The application step may be followed, after a possible leave-on time and / or an optional rinsing step, with a step of drying, for example using a hairdryer. The hair may also be left to dry, particularly left to dry naturally.

[0600] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising: a) one or more dipeptides; and b) one or more surfactants, for treating the hair, preferably for caring the hair, more preferably for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair, even more preferably for the combing and / or the smoothness of the hair.

[0601] The preferred embodiments as disclosed above regarding the composition T according to the present invention also apply to the composition in the context of said use.

[0602] Preferably, the composition in the context of said use is the composition T as defined above.

[0603] The hair treatment process, and the use, are preferably for the washing and / or the conditioning of hair which has been sensitized, weakened and / or damaged, or hair laden with metal ions, notably copper, magnesium and / or calcium ions.

[0604] EXAMPLES

[0605] Hair pre-treatment with a copper solution (PTC)

[0606] A 1% copper sulfate solution was prepared by dissolving 0.4 g of CuSCL in distilled water to make a final volume of 40 mL. Then, a 1g natural virgin indian hair swatch was fully submerged into the copper solution and said solution containing the hair was agitated for 24 hours at room temperature. After 24 hours, the hair sample was removed from the solution and was detangled using a comb and then was dried at 60°C.

[0607] Hard water pre-treatment of the hair (PTHW) 7.94 g of MgCl2(or 16.94g of MgCh 6H20) and 18.50 g of CaCl2were added into boiled de-ionized water. The amount of water was adjusted to reach a total volume of solution of 250 mL.

[0608] Then, a 1g natural virgin indian hair swatch was fully submerged into this hard water solution and said solution containing the hair was agitated for 24 hours at room temperature.

[0609] After 24 hours, the hair sample was removed from the solution and was detangling using a comb and then was dried at 60°C.

[0610] The following compositions TA to TD as described in Table 1 below have been prepared: quantities are expressed in g of active matter (AM) / 100g, unless otherwise stated.

[0611] [Table 1]

[0612] Hair compositions which can be used as shampoos are obtained.

[0613] Protocol for the application of compositions TA to TD

[0614] Hair swatches pre-treated with the copper solution as described above (PTC) and those pre-treated with the hard water solution as described above (PTHW) were rinsed with water by running fingers through the hair 5 times for 5 seconds. Then, each swatch was passed between two fingers to remove excess water.

[0615] The compositions TA to TD were applied to these pre-treated hair swatches in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per gram of swatch. The swatches were gently massaged by passing each swatch about two times between two fingers for 15 seconds, from the roots to the ends (without creating knots), so as to lather the compositions.

[0616] Then, the swatches were rinsed under tap water, and the fingers were run through the hair 15 times for 10 seconds. Each swatch was finally passed between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passages).

[0617] Processes are summarized in Tables 2 and 3 below, respectively for each pretreatment undergone by hair swatches (copper (PTC) and hard water (PTHW)):

[0618] [Table 2]

[0619] [Table 3]

[0620] Combing force on wet hair swatches

[0621] Each wet hair swatch was placed on a combing machine (Diastron MTT 175 by Dia-Stron Limited UK) and a comb with a sensor was put into the hair fibers.

[0622] Combing was performed by scanning the hair swatch from root to tip, and registered the force needed to move the comb along the lock.

[0623] 3 hair swatches were pre-treated with each pre-treatment composition PTC or PTHW and then treated with each composition TA, TB, TC or TD and the measurements of the force were performed 5 times per treated hair swatch.

[0624] In total, the measurements were therefore performed 15 times per process to be tested.

[0625] The average maximum force was calculated from the 15 measured data of the 3 hair locks treated by each process. The average maximum force was calculated in gram-force (gf): 1 gf corresponds to about 0.0098 Newton.

[0626] The lower the force, the easier the keratin fibers are to comb / detangle.

[0627] Conditions of the test: 23°C, 54% humidity

[0628] Combing speed = 1 500 mm / minute

[0629] The results of the combing force test are gathered in Tables 4 and 5 below, for each pre-treatment undergone by hair swatches (copper (PTC) and hard water (PTHW), respectively):

[0630] [Table 4] [Table 5]

[0631] It is observed that the hair swatches pre-treated by the copper solution and then treated with the process 1 according to the invention are much easier to comb in wet conditions, in comparison with the hair swatches pre-treated by the copper solution and then treated with the comparative processes 2, 3 and 4 (i.e with well-known chelating agents for processes 3 and 4).

[0632] It is also observed that the hair swatches pre-treated by the hard water solution and then treated with the process 5 according to the invention are at least as easy to comb (even easier in comparison with processes 6 and 7) in wet conditions as the hair swatches pre-treated by the hard water solution and then treated with the comparative processes 6, 7 and 8 (i.e. with well-known chelating agents for processes 7 and 8).

[0633] These tests demonstrate the effect on hair detangling of the presence of a very efficient metal chelant, which is the dipeptide glycyl-L-glutamic acid.

[0634] Friction force (smoothness)

[0635] The principle of the method is to measure the friction force of a hair swatch between two bended bio-skin (simulation of the human perception of the touch between 2 fingers). Each swatch is placed between two wipers which give constant pressure. In a vertical downward movement of traction, it measures the friction force over the length of the swatches. The hair swatches are pinched between two halfcylinders with bio-skin on each of the surface, which is more relevant to consumer gestures and perception of smoothness on hair. In this regard, a Dia Stron MIT 175 device was used. Hair swatches were fixed on the force sensor of the device. The swatches were then placed between two wipers which give constant pressure. In a vertical downward movement of traction, the friction force is measured over the length of the swatch. Smoothness is measured in terms of Force (N). Greater the friction force less will be the smoothness.

[0636] This study is conducted on 3 hair swatches for each process and 15 data points were evaluated.

[0637] The results of the friction force test are gathered in Tables 6 and 7 below, for each pre-treatment undergone by hair swatches (copper (PTC) and hard water (PTHW), respectively):

[0638] [Table 6] [Table 7] It is observed that the hair swatches pre-treated by the copper solution and then treated with the process 1 according to the invention are at least as smooth (i.e show a friction force at least as low) (even smoother in comparison with process 2) as the hair swatches pre-treated by the copper solution and then treated with the comparative processes 2, 3 and 4 (i.e with well-known chelating agents for processes 3 and 4).

[0639] It is also observed that the hair swatches pre-treated by the hard water solution and then treated with the process 5 according to the invention are at least as smooth as (i.e show a friction force at least as low) (even smoother in comparison with processes 6 and 7) as the hair swatches pre-treated by the hard water solution and then treated with the comparative processes 6, 7 and 8 (i.e with well-known chelating agents for processes 7 and 8).

[0640] These tests demonstrate the effect on smoothness of the presence of a very efficient metal chelant, which is the dipeptide glycyl-L-glutamic acid.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Cosmetic process for treating hair comprising the application onto the hair of a composition T comprising: a) one or more dipeptides; and b) one or more surfactants.

2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the dipeptide(s) consist(s) of two amino acids, identical or different, chosen from alanine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, tyrosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably two amino acids chosen from glutamic acid, glycine, or mixtures thereof, more preferably the two amino acids are glutamic acid and glycine.

3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the dipeptide(s) is(are) chosen from glycyl-L-tyrosine, glycyl-L-glutamic acid, L-alanyl-L-glutamine, glycyl-glycine, lysyl-lysine, glycyl-alanine, glycyl-lysine, glycyl-histidine, and mixtures thereof, preferably the dipeptide is glycyl-L-glutamic acid.

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the dipeptide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.25% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant is chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

6. Process according to claim 5, characterized in that the anionic surfactants are chosen from (Ce-C24)alkylsulfosuccinates and in particular (C10-C20) alkylsulfosuccinates ; (C6-C24) olefin sulfonates and in particular (C12-C20) olefin sulfonates ; (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and in particular (C10-C20) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates ; (C6-C24)acylisethionates and in particular (Cio-Cis)acyli sethi onates ; (Ce-C24)acylsarcosinates and in particular (Cio-C2o)acylsarcosinates ; (Ce-C24)alkyl sulfoacetates and in particular (Cio-Ci8)alkylsulfoacetates ; (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and in particular (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof; in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, preferably from (C6-C24)acylisethionates, and in particular (Cio-Ci8)acylisethionates, (C6-C24) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, and in particular (C10-C20) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (Cio-C2o)acylsarcosinates, (Cio-Ci8)alkylsulfoacetates, and mixtures thereof, in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal, such as sodium or disodium, or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, even more preferably from sodium cocoyl isethionate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, and mixtures thereof.

7. Process according to any one of claims 5 to 6, characterized in that the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 28% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 26% by weight, even more preferably from 12% to 24% by weight, better still from 18% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

8. Process according to any one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

9. Process according to any one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0,1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

10. Process according to any one of claims 5 to 9, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (Cs-Cis alkyl)(poly)glycosides; oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from C12-C24 saturated fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C40 alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains, and mixtures thereof.

11. Process according to any one of claims 5 to 10, characterized in that the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of surfactants ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 20% to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition T.

13. Process according any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of the surfactant(s) and the total content of the dipeptide(s) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranges from 1 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20, even more preferably from 10 to 15.

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition T further comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof; more preferably the composition T comprises one or more amino silicones and one or more non-amino silicones.

15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition T further comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid Ce-Cis hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, esters of mono-, di- ortricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from esters of monocarboxylic acid and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition T further comprises one or more cationic polymers.

17. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition T further comprises one or more thickeners, preferably chosen from polymers not comprising sugar units, in particular from crosslinked or uncrosslinked non-associative thickening polymers bearing acrylic or methacrylic units; in particular from acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, more preferably from crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, and mixtures thereof ; even more preferably from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, particularly crosslinked by a pentaerythrityl allyl ether, a sucrose allyl ether or a propylene allyl ether.

18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the process is a process for caring the hair, particularly a process for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair.

19. Use of a composition comprising a) one or more dipeptides; and b) one or more surfactants, for treating the hair, preferably for caring the hair, more preferably for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair, even more preferably for the combing and / or the smoothness of the hair.

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