Composition comprising amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant and aliphatic dicarboxylic acid
A composition and process using an amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant, solid fatty ester, and aliphatic dicarboxylic acid improve the smoothness and coating properties of keratin fibers, addressing the inadequacies of existing cosmetic compositions.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-12
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-25
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] COMPOSITION COMPRISING AMINO-ACID TYPE AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT AND ALIPHATIC DICARBOXYLIC ACID
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition comprising an amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers using the same.
[0006] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0007] Hair products for caring for hair in order to achieve smoothing effect on hair and to facilitate disentangling of the hair are widely favored by customers. Hair conditioning products are used for curing hair damage.
[0008] For example, WO 2023 / 001792 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0009] (i) one or more fatty amines containing at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain,
[0010] (ii) at least 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty substances with a melting point above 25 °C, different from the fatty amines (i), and
[0011] (iii) one or more fatty substances with a melting point below or equal to 25 °C, different from the fatty amines (i), wherein the (ii) one or more fatty substances with a melting point above 25°C are chosen from esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms.
[0012] Also, JP-A-2008-133224 discloses that a hair cosmetic comprises (A) a gallic acid derivative, (B) an amide-amine compound, (C) an amphoteric surfactant, (D) ethanol, and (E) a propellant, which can impart a good touch feeling, in particular, smoothness to the hair and exhibit a high in low-temperature storage stability.
[0013] However, there is still a demand for a cosmetic composition which can provide keratin fibers, preferably hair, in particular wet hair, with improved smoothness.
[0014] Also, there is still a demand for providing a process for imparting sufficient conditioning effects to keratin fibers, preferably hair, in particular wet hair.
[0015] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0016] An objective of the present invention is to provide a new composition for conditioning keratin fibers, which can provide keratin fibers with an improved cosmetic effect, such as smoothening effect on wet hair.
[0017] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:
[0018] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0019] (b) at least one solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid; and (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.
[0020] The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from (Cs- C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (Cs-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cg- C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof.
[0021] The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from an amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
[0022] The (b) solid fatty ester may be selected from monoesters represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated fatty acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated chain containing 4 or more carbon atom, especially containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferable 8 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 10, preferably Ri + R2 is > 14.
[0023] The (b) solid fatty ester may be selected from monoesters represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear and saturated fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based linear and saturated chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 14.
[0024] The (b) solid fatty ester may have a melting point of higher than 25°C, preferably 30°C or higher.
[0025] The (b) solid fatty ester may be selected from cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0026] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be selected from linear and saturated C2-C15, C2-C10, or C2-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids.
[0027] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, saccharic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof, and preferably the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is tartaric acid.
[0028] The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (b) solid fatty ester(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition may range from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] The composition according to the present invention may be for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0031] The composition according to the present invention may comprise anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 20% by weight, more preferably less than 10% by weight, even more preferably less than 5% by weight, and in particular less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition is free of any anionic surfactants.
[0032] Another objective of the present invention is to provide a new process for conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair, in particular wet hair, which can exhibit an improved coating properties on keratin fibers when it is applied.
[0033] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising a step of an application of a composition on the keratin fibers, wherein the composition comprising:
[0034] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0035] (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and
[0036] (d) at least one fatty amine.
[0037] The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant, which can be used in the process, may be selected from (Cg-Caojalkylamphoacetates, (Cg-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (Cs- Czojalkylamphodiacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof.
[0038] The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant, which can be used in the process, may be selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
[0039] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid , which can be used in the process, may be selected from linear and saturated C2-C15 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids.
[0040] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which can be used in the process, may be selected from linear and saturated C2-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from tartronic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, saccharic acid, glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0041] The (d) fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines represented by the following formula (I):
[0042] RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(I) wherein
[0043] RCO denotes an acyl group, which may have C6-22 carbon atoms, R1and R2denote, independently, a Ci-6 alkyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5.
[0044] The (d) fatty amine, which can be used in the process, may be selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
[0045] The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition, which can be used in the process, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition, which can be used in the process, may range from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] The amount of the (d) fatty amine(s) in the composition, which can be used in the process, may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] The process may not be a process for cleansing or shampooing keratin fibers.
[0049] The present invention also relates to a composition for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising:
[0050] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0051] (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and
[0052] (d) at least one fatty amine.
[0053] The composition according to the present invention may not be a composition for cleaning keratin fibers or a shampoo composition.
[0054] The composition according to the present invention may comprise anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, and even more preferably less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of any anionic surfactants.
[0055] The composition according to the present invention may comprise amphoteric surfactants other than the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants in an amount of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight, and even more preferably less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of any amphoteric surfactants other than the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants.
[0056] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0057] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that a composition comprising a combination of (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant, (b) solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid, and (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid can provide the hair with improved cosmetic effects, and thus completed Invention A.
[0058] Thus, Invention A relates to a composition comprising:
[0059] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0060] (b) at least one solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid; and
[0061] (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.
[0062] The composition according to Invention A is very preferred for conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair, in particular wet hair, since it can provide the keratin fibers with improved cosmetic effects of improved smoothing property.
[0063] Also, after diligent research, the inventors have discovered that a new process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, using a composition comprising a combination of (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant, (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and (d) fatty amine can exhibit an improved coating properties of the composition on the keratin fibers, and thus completed Invention B.
[0064] Thus, Invention B relates to a process for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising a step of an application of a composition on the keratin fibers, wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0065] (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and
[0066] (d) at least one fatty amine.
[0067] The process according to Invention B is very preferred for conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair, since it can exhibit an improved coating properties on the keratin fibers. In particular, the process according to the present invention can exhibit increased coating amount of the composition and improved sensory of smoothness upon application. These properties indicate that the composition can be applied and spread on the keratin fibers more efficiently.
[0068] Hereinafter, the composition and process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.
[0069] Invention A
[0070] [Composition]
[0071] The composition according to Invention A comprises:
[0072] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0073] (b) at least one solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid; and (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.
[0074] The composition according to Invention A is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "keratin fiber" includes hair, eyebrow, and eyelash, and preferably hair.
[0075] The composition according to Invention A may be for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair. For the purpose of the present invention, the expression of "conditioning keratin fibers" indicates to conditioning keratin fibers by providing the keratin fibers with cosmetic effects, such as hair-smoothing effects, and does not indicate cleaning the keratin fibers, such as shampooing the keratin fibers.
[0076] Thus, the composition according to Invention A may be different from shampoo compositions, or may not be a composition for cleaning keratin fibers or a shampoo composition. In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is used to keratin fibers, preferably hair, before and / or after shampooing.
[0077] Thus, the composition according to Invention A is intended to be applied to keratin fibers, in particular hair. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be a topical cosmetic composition.
[0078] The composition according to Invention A may be a leave-on or rinse-off type. The leave-on type composition is not rinsed off after being used on the hair. The rinse-off type composition is rinsed off after being used on the hair.
[0079] Preferably, the composition according to Invention A can be used as a hair-treatment or a conditioner for hair.
[0080] The composition according to Invention A may take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O / W or W / O form), multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cream.
[0081] The ingredients in the composition will be described in detail below.
[0082] (Amino-Acid Type Amphoteric Surfactant)
[0083] The composition according to Invention A comprises (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant. A single type of (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.
[0084] For the present invention, the term "amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant" means amphoteric surfactants including at least one amino-acid moiety having a secondary or tertiary amine group, and a carboxylate salt group. These secondary or tertiary amine group give and receive hydrogen ion in response to pH, leading the amine group to be positively charged under isoelectric to acidic pH. Amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant also has a negatively charged anionic moiety of a carboxyl group (-COO") under an isoelectric to basic pH. The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant can be different from so-called betaine- type amphoteric surfactants, which have a positively charged cationic moiety of a quaternary ammonium salt in an arbitrary pH.
[0085] Specifically, the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants have the following structures: R1R2HN+-(CX1X2)n-COOH in an acidic condition,
[0086] R1R2HN+-(C X1X2)n-COO" in an isoelectric condition, and R*R2N-(C X1X2)n-COO' in a basic condition, wherein R1and R2represent organic groups, for example, hydrocarbon groups, and X1and X2represent H or other known functional groups, respectively.
[0087] On the other hand, betaine-type surfactants have the have the following structures: R1R2R3N+~CH2COOH in an acidic condition, and R1R2R3N+-CH2COO’ in an isoelectric to basic conditions, wherein R1, R2and R3represent organic groups, for example, hydrocarbon groups.
[0088] Thus, the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant comprises at least one secondary or tertiary amine group while does not comprise a positively charged quaternary ammonium salt. On the other hand, betaine-type surfactants comprise a positively charged quaternary ammonium salt while does not comprise at least one secondary or tertiary amine group.
[0089] The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant of the present invention can be selected from alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphodipropionates, and salts thereof.
[0090] Non-limiting examples of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants, mention can be made of those represented by formula (la):
[0091] Ra'-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)nf-N(B)(B') (la) wherein:
[0092] B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2- COOH, - CH2CH2- , COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
[0093] B' represents -CH2)Z~Y', with z=T or 2, and Y' representing -COOH, -COOZ’, -CH2- CHOH-SO3H, or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z’; m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2;
[0094] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
[0095] Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanol- amine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, 2-amino-2 -methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol and tris(hydroxy- methyl)aminomethane; and
[0096] Ra' represents a (Cio-C3o)alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
[0097] The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant can be particularly represented by Formula (lb) or (Ic):
[0098] (Ic) wherein R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms.
[0099] Although sodium is shown as the cation in the above formulae, the cation may be any alkali metal ion, such as sodium or potassium, an ammonium ion, or an alkanolammonium ion such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0100] Exemplary compounds of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may include (Cs- C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (Cg-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof, and preferably selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
[0101] The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount. (Solid Faty Ester)
[0105] The composition according to Invention A comprises (b) at least one solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid. A single type of the (b) solid higher ester may be used, but two or more different types of the (b) solid higher ester may be used in combination.
[0106] The term “solid” means that a substance is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa).
[0107] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "fatty" means substances having a hydrocarbon-based chain. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon" means compounds consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based chains may be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and for example an oxygen atom.
[0108] In the present invention, the (b) fatty ester indicates an ester of at least one faty alcohol and of at least one fatty acid.
[0109] The (b) solid higher ester can be categorized as a solid ester oil.
[0110] The (b) solid fatty ester may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the (b) solid fatty ester is saturated. Preferably, the (b) solid faty ester is linear. Thus, preferably, the (b) solid fatty ester is saturated and linear.
[0111] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" means liner or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having a hydrocarbon-based chain and at least one hydroxyl group.
[0112] Preferably, the fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester is linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester is saturated. Thus, in one preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester is linear and saturated.
[0113] The fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester has at least 4 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohol may comprise 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0114] The fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester preferably comprises one hydroxy group. Thus, preferably, the fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester is monoalcohol.
[0115] In one preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester comprise a hydroxy group at an end of its carbon chain. Thus, preferably, the fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester is a primary alcohol.
[0116] In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is not substituted with hetero atoms other than an oxygen atom, such as a nitrogen atom and a sulfur atom. Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol consists of hydrogen atoms, carbon atoms, and oxygen atoms.
[0117] In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is not glycerolated nor non- oxyalkylenated.
[0118] As the fatty alcohol of the (b) solid fatty ester, mention can be made of butyl alcohol (C4), capryl alcohol (Cs), decyl alcohol (C10), undecyl alcohol (CH), lauryl alcohol (C12), myristyl alcohol (C14), cetyl alcohol (Cie), stearyl alcohol (Cie), arachidyl alcohol (C20), behenyl alcohol (C22), and mixtures thereof.
[0119] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "fatty acid" means liner or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids having a hydrocarbon-based chain or an aliphatic chain and at least one carboxyl group.
[0120] Preferably, the fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester is linear. Preferably, the fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester is saturated. Thus, in one preferred embodiment, the fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester is linear and saturated.
[0121] The fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester may comprise 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0122] The fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester preferably comprises one carboxylic group. Thus, preferably, the fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester is monoacid.
[0123] The fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester may or may not comprise at least one hydroxy group. In one preferred embodiment, the fatty acid does not have a hydroxy group.
[0124] In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester is not substituted with hetero atoms other than an oxygen atom, such as a nitrogen atom and a sulfur atom. Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid consists of hydrogen atoms, carbon atoms, and oxygen atoms.
[0125] As the fatty acid of the (b) solid fatty ester, mention can be made of caprylic acid (Cs), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), pentadecanoic acid (Ci 5), palmitic acid (Cie), isopalmitic acid (Cie), heptadecanoic acid (C17), stearic acid (Cis), isostearic acid (Cis), nonadecanoic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24), and mixtures thereof.
[0126] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) solid fatty ester comprises 10 to 45 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0127] In one preferred embodiment, the (b) solid fatty ester has a melting point of higher than 25°C, preferably 30°C or higher.
[0128] In one preferred embodiment, the (b) solid fatty ester is selected from monoesters represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated chain containing 4 or more carbon atom, especially containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferable 8 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 10, preferably Ri + R2 is > 14. In more preferred embodiment, the (b) solid fatty ester is selected from monoesters represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear and saturated fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based linear and saturated chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 14.
[0129] As specific examples of the (b) solid fatty ester, mention can be made of cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, lauryl laurate, behenyl behenate, behenyl stearate, behenyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] As one preferred product of the (b) solid fatty ester, mention can be made of cetyl esters. Cetyl esters here can mean a mixture of esters of saturated C14-C18 fatty acids and saturated C14-C18 fatty alcohols, and may include cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, and stearyl stearate.
[0131] The amount of the (b) solid fatty ester(s) in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] The amount of the (b) solid fatty ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] The amount of the (b) solid fatty ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] (Aliphatic Dicarboxylic Acid)
[0135] The composition according to Invention A comprises (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid. A single type of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be used, but two or more different types of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acids may be used in combination.
[0136] As explained above, for the purpose of the present invention, the term "aliphatic dicarboxylic acid" means liner or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids having an aliphatic chain and two carboxyl groups.
[0137] The aliphatic chain of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is not substituted with hetero atoms other than an oxygen atom, such as a nitrogen atom and a sulfur atom, preferably the aliphatic chain of the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is not substituted with amino group. Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid consists of hydrogen atoms, carbon atoms, and oxygen atoms. Also, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is not amino acids.
[0138] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be saturated or unsaturated. It is preferable that the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid be saturated.
[0139] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may comprise from 2 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0140] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may have a linear or branched carbon chain. It is preferable that the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid have a linear carbon chain.
[0141] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid comprises two carboxyl groups at the end of its carbon chain.
[0142] In one embodiment, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be represented by the following formula: wherein
[0143] Xi is a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably a linear alkylene group -(CH2)x- where x is an integer from 1 to 12, and preferably from 2 to 8.
[0144] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, saccharic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0145] In one preferred embodiment, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may not comprise a hydroxy group. In this embodiment, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0146] The (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may comprise at least one hydroxy group.
[0147] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid comprises one hydroxy group. As the example of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having one hydroxy group, mention can be made of tartronic acid, malic acid, and a-hydroxy glutaric acid.
[0148] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid comprises two hydroxy groups. As the example of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having two hydroxy groups, mention can be made of tartaric acid.
[0149] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid comprises three or more hydroxy groups. As the example of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having three or more hydroxy groups, mention can be made of saccharic acid.
[0150] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is selected from linear and saturated C2-C15, C3-C10, or C4-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, more preferably selected from linear and saturated C2-C15, C3-C10, or C4-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having at least one hydroxy group, and even more preferably selected from tartronic acid, malic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, and saccharic acid. The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.25% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 7.5% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] (Optional Ingredients)
[0154] The composition of Invention A may comprise the following optional ingredients. The optional ingredient here means an ingredient which may or may not be included in the composition.
[0155] - Water
[0156] The composition typically comprises water.
[0157] The amount of water in the composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0158] The amount of water in the composition may be 97.5% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 92.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0159] The amount of water in the composition may range from 50% to 97.5% by weight, preferably from 65% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 92.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0160] - Cationic surfactant
[0161] The composition may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more different types of cationic surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic surfactant or a combination of different types of cationic surfactants may be used.
[0162] The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0163] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (V) below: wherein
[0164] Ri, R2, R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C12- C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl grpups; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; preferably alkyl groups; and X' is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-Ce) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (VI) below: wherein:
[0165] Rs is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
[0166] Rs is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0167] R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals;
[0168] Rs is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals; and
[0169] X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl and Rs is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco; diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (VII): wherein:
[0170] R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0171] Rio, R11, R12, R13, and R14, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
[0172] X" is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates. An example of one such diquatemary ammonium salt is propane tallow diammonium dichloride; and quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VIII) below: wherein:
[0173] R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl radicals, and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
[0174] R23 is chosen from: the radical below:
[0175] O
[0176] R26— c — linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen,
[0177] R25 is chosen from: the radical below:
[0178] O
[0179] R2— c — linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals R29, and hydrogen,
[0180] R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals; r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; each of rl and tl, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and tl+2t=2t; y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X’ is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29. R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is the hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is the hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X' may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X" is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate. In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) may be used, wherein: R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1 ; z is equal to 0 or 1 ; r, s, and t are equal to 2;
[0181] R23 is chosen from: the radical below:
[0182] O
[0183] R26 C - methyl, ethyl, and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;
[0184] R25 is chosen from: the radical below:
[0185] 0
[0186] R28C
[0187] 9 and hydrogen;
[0188] R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
[0189] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
[0190] Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (VIII) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl- dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
[0191] These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0192] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
[0193] Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. Among the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, quaternary ammonium and diammonium salts include, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltimethylammonium chloride (such as, for example, the products sold under the trade name Dehyquart A by Cognis, or Quartamin 60 W25 by Kao, or Genamin CTAC 25 by Clariant), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the products sold for example by Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85), behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the product sold by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131 ) stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate (INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate) (such as the product Dehyquart F 30 by Cognis), di(CrC2 alkyl)( C12-C22 alkyl)hydroxy(CrC2alkyl)ammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propane tallow diammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0194] In a particular embodiment the cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0195] The cationic surfactant may be also selected from fatty amines.
[0196] The fatty amine may have a substituted or non-substituted, hydrocarbon group such as an alkyl group, which may have from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The substituent may be a hydroxyl group or a poly oxy alkylene group.
[0197] The fatty amine may be in the form of a primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine.
[0198] The fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines, which may be C6-22 alkylamido Ci-6 dialkylamines. The alkylamidoamines may be represented by the following formula (I):
[0199] RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(I) wherein
[0200] RCO denotes an acyl group, which may have C6-22 carbon atoms, such as stearoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, and cocoyl,
[0201] R1and R2denote, independently, a Ci-6 alkyl group such as a methyl group and an ethyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3, and more preferably 2 or 3.
[0202] The fatty amine may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine.
[0203] The salt of the fatty amine is not limited. The salts of fatty amines may be chosen from halogens, actetates, phosphates, nitrates, citrates, lactates, and alkylsulfates.
[0204] For example, the salts of the fatty amine may be selected from stearylamine hydrochloride, soyamine chloride, stearylamine formate, N-tallowpropane diaminedichloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine citrate, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0205] The fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines, preferably C6-22 alkylamido Ci-6 dialkylamines, and more preferably may be stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0206] The amount of the fatty amine(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0207] The amount of the fatty amine(s) in the composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0208] The amount of the fatty amine(s) in the composition may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0209] - Oil
[0210] The composition may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0211] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste (non-solid), or solid, preferably a liquid or a paste, at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (105Pa). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0212] The optional oil ingredient is different from the (b) solid fatty ester and the fatty amine as explained in the optional cationic surfactant.
[0213] Among the oils which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0214] For the purposes of the present invention, “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.
[0215] For the purposes of the present invention, “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
[0216] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, poly decenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9- 12 Alkane, C 10- 13 Alkane, C 13 - 14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, CIS- 21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 0-12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cll- 15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 2-13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.
[0217] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0218] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0219] The plant oils may be plant-extracted butters. Among the plant-extracted butters, the following may be cited: shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter.
[0220] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0221] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, liquid ester oils, ether oils, fatty alcohols, and artificial triglycerides.
[0222] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0223] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0224] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate. As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. Note that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0225] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0226] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0227] The fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0228] As the fatty acid, mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
[0229] As the ether oil, dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula: Rj-O-R2wherein each of R1and R2independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably C8-C12 alkyl group. It is preferable that R1and R2are the same.
[0230] As the linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.
[0231] As the branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2- methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3 -methylhexyl group, a 5- methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5- methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5- methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2- hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3 -dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1, 1,3,3- tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyyl group, and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0232] As the cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group. As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / capry late / linolenate) .
[0233] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0234] The oil may be preferably selected from ester oils and fatty alcohols.
[0235] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] The total amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0237] The total amount of the oil(s) in the composition may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] - Adjuvants
[0239] The composition according to Invention A may or may not include any adjuvants typically employed in cosmetics, such as solvents, in particular cosmetically acceptable organic solvents; inorganic or organic powders; anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; anionic surfactants non-ionic surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants other than (a), or mixtures thereof; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; thickeners; dyes; cosmetic active agents; fragrances; antioxidants; pH adjusting agents, reducing agents, alkaline agents, preservatives; chelating or sequestering agents; and opacifying agents, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0240] The total amount of adjuvants in the composition may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] The composition according to the present invention may have a characteristic in that it can impart improved smoothing effect to keratin fibers, in particular hair, even though it does not include or does include a tiny amount of silicones. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises silicones in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of any silicones.
[0242] As explained above, the composition according to the present invention is for conditioning keratin fibers, and not a composition for cleaning keratin fibers or not a shampoo composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not include a large amount of anionic surfactants. For example, the composition comprises anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, and even more preferably less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition is free of any anionic surfactants.
[0243] In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not include a large amount of amphoteric surfactants other than the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants. For example, the composition comprises amphoteric surfactants other than the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants in an amount of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight, and even more preferably less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition is free of any amphoteric surfactants other than the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants.
[0244] The pH value of the composition is not particularly limited, but in general ranges from 3.0 to 9.0, preferably from 3.5 to 6.0.
[0245] The composition can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0246] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to Invention A comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0247] (a) from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0248] (b) from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid; and
[0249] (c) from 0.1 % to 7.5% by weight of the at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.
[0250] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to Invention A comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0251] (a) from 0.2% to 5% by weight of the at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant selected from (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (Cg-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cs-C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof; and
[0252] (b) from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid, monoesters represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated fatty acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated chain containing 4 or more carbon atom, especially containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferable 8 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 10, preferably Ri + R2 is > 14; and
[0253] (c) from 0.25% to 5% by weight of the at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid selected from linear and saturated C2-C15, C2-C10, or C2-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to Invention A comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0254] (a) from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight of the at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, and combinations thereof;
[0255] (b) from 1% to 3% by weight of the solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid, selected from cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof; and
[0256] (c) from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of the at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid obtained from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, saccharic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0257] [Process]
[0258] The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of an application of the composition according to Invention A on the keratin fibers.
[0259] Thus, Invention A also relates to a process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of an application of a composition on the hair, wherein the composition comprises:
[0260] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0261] (b) at least one solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid; and
[0262] (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.
[0263] For the purpose of the present invention, the expression of "conditioning keratin fibers" indicates to conditioning keratin fibers by providing hair with cosmetic effects, such as imparting smoothing effect to the keratin fibers, and does not indicate cleaning keratin fibers, such as shampooing. Thus, the process according to the present invention is different from a process for cleaning keratin fibers or shampooing keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0264] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process does not include a step of cleaning and / or shampooing keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0265] The step of the application of the composition on the keratin fibers can be performed by any means. For example, the application can be performed by using a hand or any applicators such as a comb or a brush.
[0266] The ingredients (a) to (c) are as explained above. In addition, the composition may comprise additional optional ingredients as explained above. The step of the application of the composition can be conducted after a step of shampooing and rinsing the keratin fibers. In one embodiment of the present invention, an optional number of shampooing steps are conducted on the keratin fibers before and / or after the process according to the present invention. Also, another step of conditioning keratin fibers can be carried out in combination with the process according to the present invention.
[0267] The keratin fibers to be treated by the process according to the present invention may be wet or dried. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are wet when the process according to the present invention is performed. Thus, the process according to the present invention can be applied to wet hair.
[0268] It may be possible that, after the application of the composition, the keratin fibers be left as they are for a certain amount of time; typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to let the composition penetrate into the keratin fibers.
[0269] The process according to Invention A may further comprise a step of rinsing the composition off from the keratin fibers after the step of the application. In one embodiment of Invention A, the keratin fibers are rinsed off with water to rinse the applied composition off the keratin fiber.
[0270] Invention B
[0271] [Process]
[0272] The process according to Invention B is a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair. Thus, the process according to the present invention can be a cosmetic process and a non-therapeutic process.
[0273] For the purpose of the present invention, the expression of "conditioning keratin fibers" indicates to conditioning keratin fibers by providing the keratin fibers, preferably hair, with cosmetic effects, such as smoothness property, and does not indicate cleaning keratin, such as shampooing keratin fibers. Thus, the process according to the present invention is different from a process for cleaning or shampooing keratin fibers.
[0274] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "keratin fiber" includes hair.
[0275] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process does not include a step of cleaning and / or shampooing keratin fibers.
[0276] The process according to Invention B comprises a step of an application of a composition comprising:
[0277] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0278] (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and
[0279] (d) at least one fatty amine.
[0280] The step of the application of the composition on the keratin fibers can be performed by any means. For example, the application can be performed by using a hand or any applicators such as a comb or a brush. The step of the application of the composition can be conducted after a step of shampooing and rinsing the keratin fibers. In one embodiment of the present invention, at least one step of an optional number of times of shampooing is conducted on the keratin fibers before and / or after the process according to the present invention.
[0281] The keratin fibers to be treated by the process according to the present invention may be wet or dried. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are wet when the process according to the present invention is performed. Thus, the process according to the present invention can be applied to wet keratin fibers.
[0282] It may be possible, after the application of the composition, for the keratin fibers to be left as is for a certain amount of time; typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to let the composition penetrate into the keratin fibers.
[0283] The process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of rinsing the composition off from the keratin fibers after the step of the application. In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed off with water to rinse the applied composition off the keratin fibers.
[0284] The composition of the present invention may take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O / W or W / O form), multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cream. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “homogeneous” is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.
[0285] The ingredients in the composition used in Invention B will be described in detail below.
[0286] (Amino-Acid Type Amphoteric Surfactant)
[0287] The composition used in Invention B comprises (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant. A single type of (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.
[0288] The (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant which can be used in Invention B is the same as the (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant explained in Invention A above. Thus, the same explanation on the (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant as Invention A can be applied to Invention B.
[0289] The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0291] (Aliphatic Dicarboxylic Acid)
[0292] The composition used in Invention B comprises (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid. A single type of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid may be used, but two or more different types of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acids may be used in combination.
[0293] The (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid which can be used in Invention B is the same as the (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid explained in Invention A above. Thus, the same explanation on the (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid as Invention A can be applied to Invention B.
[0294] The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.25% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0295] The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 7.5% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0296] The amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0297] (Fatty Amine)
[0298] The composition used in Invention B comprises (d) at least one fatty amine. Two or more different types of (d) fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a) fatty amine or a combination of different types of (d) fatty amines may be used.
[0299] Fatty amine is one type of cationic surfactants and has a function as a cationic surfactant.
[0300] The term “fatty” here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms.
[0301] The (d) fatty amine may have a substituted or non-substituted, hydrocarbon group such as alkyl group, which may have from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The substituent may be a hydroxyl group or a polyoxyalkylene group.
[0302] The (d) fatty amine may be in the form of a primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine.
[0303] The (d) fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines, which may be Ce-24 alkylamido Ci-6 dialkylamines, and preferably C10-22 alkylamido C1.4 dialkylamines. The alkylamidoamines may be represented by the following formula (I): RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(I) wherein
[0304] RCO denotes an acyl group, which may have Ce-24 carbon atoms, preferably C10-C22 carbon atoms such as stearoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, and cocoyl,
[0305] R1and R2denote, independently, a Ci-6 alkyl group, preferably a C alkyl group, such as a methyl group and an ethyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3, and more preferably 2 or 3.
[0306] The (d) fatty amine may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0307] The salt of the fatty amine is not limited. The salts of (d) fatty amines may be chosen from halogens, actetates, phosphates, nitrates, citrates, lactates, and alkylsulfates.
[0308] For example, the salts of the (d) fatty amine may be selected from stearylamine hydrochloride, soyamine chloride, stearylamine formate, N-tallowpropane diaminedichloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine citrate.
[0309] The (d) fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines, preferably C6-22 alkylamido Ci-6 dialkylamines, and more preferably may be stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0310] Also, the same explanation on the fatty amine described in Invention A as the optional ingredient can be applied to the (d) fatty amine in Invention B.
[0311] The amount of the (d) fatty amine(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0312] The amount of the (d) fatty amine(s) in the composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0313] The amount of the (d) fatty amine(s) in the composition may range from 1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0314] (Optional Ingredients)
[0315] The composition used in Invention B may comprise the following optional ingredients. The optional ingredient here means an ingredient which may or may not be included in the composition.
[0316] - Water
[0317] The composition typically comprises water. The amount of water in the composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0318] The amount of water in the composition may be 97.5% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 92.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0319] The amount of water in the composition may range from 50% to 97.5% by weight, preferably from 65% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 92.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0320] - Oil
[0321] The composition may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0322] The oil which can be used in Invention B is the same as the oil explained in Invention A above. Thus, the same explanation on the oil as Invention A can be applied to Invention B.
[0323] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0324] The total amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0325] The total amount of the oil(s) in the composition may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0326] - Adjuvants
[0327] The composition used in Invention B may or may not include any adjuvants typically employed in cosmetics, such as solvents, in particular cosmetically acceptable organic solvents; inorganic or organic powders; anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, quaternary cationic surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants other than the (a), or mixtures thereof; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; thickeners; dyes; cosmetic active agents; fragrances; antioxidants; pH adjusting agents, reducing agents, alkaline agents, preservatives; chelating or sequestering agents; and opacifying agents, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0328] The total amount of adjuvants in the composition may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0329] The composition used in Invention B can have a characteristic in that it can impart improved coating properties to keratin fibers, in particular hair, even though it does not include or include a tiny amount of silicones. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises silicones in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of any silicones.
[0330] As explained above, the composition according to Invention B is for conditioning keratin fibers, and not a composition for cleaning keratin fibers or not a shampoo composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not include a large amount of anionic surfactants. For example, the composition comprises anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, and even more preferably less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition is free of any anionic surfactants.
[0331] In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not include a large amount of amphoteric surfactants other than the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants. For example, the composition comprises amphoteric surfactants other than the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants in an amount of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight, and even more preferably less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition is free of any amphoteric surfactants other than the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants.
[0332] The pH value of the composition is not particularly limited, but in general ranges from 3.0 to 9.0, preferably from 3.5 to 6.0.
[0333] The composition can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0334] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to Invention B comprises the step of applying the composition on the keratin fibers, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0335] (a) from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0336] (c) from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight of the at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and
[0337] (d) from 1 % to 15% by weight of the at least one fatty amine.
[0338] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to Invention B comprises the step of applying the composition on the keratin fibers, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0339] (a) from 0.2% to 5% by weight of the at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant selected from (Cs-C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof;
[0340] (c) from 0.25% to 5% by weight of the at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid selected from linear and saturated C2-C15 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids; and
[0341] (d) from 2% to 10% by weight of the at least one fatty amine selected from alkylamidoamines represented by the following formula (I):
[0342] RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(I) wherein
[0343] RCO denotes an acyl group, which may have C6- carbon atoms, R1and R2denote, independently, a Ci-6 alkyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5.
[0344] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to Invention B comprises the step of applying the composition on the keratin fibers, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0345] (a) from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight of the at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, and combinations thereof;
[0346] (c) from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of the at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid selected from linear and saturated C2-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, preferably selected from tartronic acid, malic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, saccharic acid, tartronic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof; and
[0347] (d) from 3% to 5% by weight of the at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
[0348] [Composition]
[0349] The composition according to Invention B is the composition used in the process according to the present invention. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is as explained in the process above, and comprises:
[0350] (a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;
[0351] (c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and
[0352] (d) at least one fatty amine.
[0353] For the purpose of the present invention, the expression of "conditioning keratin fibers" indicates to conditioning keratin fibers by providing hair with cosmetic effects, such as imparting coating to the keratin fibers, and does not indicate cleaning keratin fibers, such as shampooing. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is different from compositions for cleaning keratin fibers, such as shampoo compositions.
[0354] The ingredients (a), (c), and (d) are as explained above. In addition, the composition according to Invention B may comprise additional optional ingredients as explained above.
[0355] The composition according to Invention B is for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be a topical composition intended to be applied to the keratin fibers.
[0356] The composition according to Invention B may be a leave-on or rinse-off type. The leave-on type composition is not rinsed off after being used on the keratin fibers. The rinse-off type composition is rinsed off after being used on the keratin fibers.
[0357] The composition according to Invention B can be used to condition keratin fibers. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a hair-treatment or a conditioner for hair.
[0358] Because the composition according to Invention B includes the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant, (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and (d) fatty amine, it can provide the keratin fibers with improved cosmetic effects, such as coating property. Furthermore, surprisingly, the composition including the combination of the ingredients (a), (c), and (d) can exhibit a good stability overtime, without causing an issue of precipitation.
[0359] EXAMPLES
[0360] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.
[0361] [Compositions]
[0362] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 5) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1 below. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. All the composition had a pH value of 4. .
[0363] [Evaluations]
[0364] (Sensorial Evaluation)
[0365] Bleached hair (Chinese, 2.7g, 27cm) was washed using a plain shampoo and then rinsed. Subsequently, 0.4 g / g hair of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was applied to the bleached hair, and their sensorial property, i.e. coating feel on application, was evaluated.
[0366] After leaving the hair for 5 minutes, the composition was rinsed with water, and then squeezed with fingers twice to remove excess water to prepare treated wet hair as samples for sensorial evaluation on detangling on wet hair.
[0367] The conditioning attributes were assessed by 3 lab experts based on the following criteria.
[0368] Coating feel on application
[0369] 1: Slippery
[0370] 2: Moderately not slippery
[0371] 3: Not slippery
[0372] Detangling
[0373] 1 : Very easy
[0374] 2: Easy
[0375] 3 : Moderately easy 4: Moderately not easy
[0376] 5: Not easy
[0377] Each of the scores was averaged and are shown in Table 1. A smaller number of overall scores indicate perceived better quality of coating.
[0378] (Combing Force Measurement)
[0379] Bleached hair (Chinese, 2.7g, 27cm) was washed using a plain shampoo and then rinsed. Subsequently, 0.4 g / g hair of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was applied to the bleached hair. After leaving the hair for 5 minutes, the composition was rinsed with water, and then squeezed with fingers twice to remove excess water. The combing force measurement was then carried out on wet hair.
[0380] The treated wet hair was combed once with fine side of the comb starting from 2.5 cm from the root to the tips while the combing force was recorded using DIA-STRON MTT175 and SILKOMB PRO-30. The average combing force in the middle of the hair tress (the section between 15 cm to 17.5 cm away from root) was calculated as a representative combing force.
[0381] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0382] Table
[0383] (1) Miranol® Ultra C-32 sold by Syensqo
[0384] As shown in Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention could provide the 5 hair with improved cosmetic effects with respect to the slippery coating feel on application and detangling on wet hair. In addition, the compositions according to the present invention provided wet hair with lower combining force on wet hair, which indicates improved smoothness and detangling of hair. Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention could provide the hair with improved smoothing and detangling 10 property.
[0385] On the other hand, the composition according to each of Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which did not include the (b) solid fatty ester of the present invention, and Comparative Examples 4 and 5, which did not include the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid of the present invention, could 15 not provide the hair with sufficient smoothing and detangling effects from application stage. Accordingly, it can be concluded that the composition according to present invention is very preferred for conditioning keratin fibers.
[0386] [Processes]
[0387] Each of the compositions according to Examples 4 to 7 (Ex. 4 to Ex. 7) and Comparative Examples 6 to 9 (Comp. Ex. 6 to Comp. Ex. 9) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2 below. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. All the composition had a pH value of 4.
[0388] Phase separation was occurred in the composition according to Comparative Example 9 just after the preparation. Thus, the following evaluations were not conducted on the composition according to Comparative Example 9.
[0389] Bleached hair (Chinese, 2.7g, 27cm) was washed using a plain shampoo and then rinsed. Subsequently, 0.4 g / g hair of each of the compositions according to Examples 4 to 7 and Comparative Examples 6 to 8 was applied to the bleached hair for sensorial evaluations.
[0390] [Evaluations]
[0391] (Stability)
[0392] Each of the composition was left to stand at 50°C for two weeks. After two weeks, the stability of the composition was investigated by observing the bulk texture. The stability was scored in accordance with the following criteria.
[0393] OK: the bulk was as smooth as just after prepared
[0394] NG: yellowing of the bulk was confirmed.
[0395] (Sensorial Evaluation)
[0396] Sensorial evaluation was carried out with respect to coating property, i.e. coating amount and smoothness upon application. These attributes were assessed by 3 lab experts based on the following criteria.
[0397] Coating amount
[0398] 1 : Plenty
[0399] 2: Sufficient
[0400] 3 : Moderately insufficient
[0401] 4: Insufficient
[0402] Smoothness
[0403] 1 : Very smooth
[0404] 2: Smooth
[0405] 3 : Moderately not smooth
[0406] 4: Not smooth
[0407] Each of the scores was averaged and are shown in Table 2. A smaller number of overall scores indicate perceived better quality of coating. The results are shown in Table 2.
[0408] Table 2
[0409] * Immediate separation after production
[0410] 5 (1) Genadvance SPA sold by Clariant
[0411] As shown in Table 2, the process according to the present invention comprising the step of the application of the composition comprising the combination of the ingredients (a), (c), and (d) could provide the hair with improved coating properties with respect to the coating amount
[0412] 10 and sensory of smoothness upon application of the composition on hair. In addition, the composition remained stable after 2 weeks at 50°C. Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide the hair with improved coating property when it is applied.
[0413] 15 On the other hand, the process according to each of Comparative Examples 6 and 7, in which the composition containing a carboxylic acid that is not an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and Comparative Examples 8, in which the composition containing an acid that is not a dicarboxylic acid, could not provide the hair with sufficient coating properties. In addition, yellowing of the bulk was observed after 2 weeks at 50°C in the compositions according to Comparative Examples 6 to 8, indicating that these compositions lack stability. Phase separation observed just after the preparation in the composition according to Comparative Example 9, in which the composition containing an acid that is not a dicarboxylic acid, also indicates the lack of stability of this composition.
[0414] Accordingly, it can be concluded that the process according to present invention is very preferred for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A composition comprises :(a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one solid fatty ester of at least one fatty alcohol having 4 or more carbon atoms and of at least one fatty acid; and(c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (Cg-C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (Cg- C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (Cs-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant is selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) solid fatty ester is selected from monoesters represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated fatty acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated chain containing 4 or more carbon atom, especially containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferable 8 to 18 carbo5n atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 10, preferably Ri + R2 is > 14.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) solid fatty ester has a melting point of higher than 25°C, preferably 30°C or higher.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) solid fatty ester is selected from cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is selected from linear and saturated C2-C15, C2-C10, or C2-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid,adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid tartronic acid, malic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, saccharic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is tartaric acid.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (b) solid fatty ester(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, which is for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.
13. A process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of an application of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12 on the keratin fibers.
14. A process for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising a step of an application of a composition on the keratin fibers, wherein the composition comprises:(a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;(c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and(d) at least one fatty amine.
15. The process according to Claim 14, wherein the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof.
16. The process according to Claim 14 or 15, wherein the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant is selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
17. The process according to any one of Claims 14 to 16, wherein the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is selected from linear and saturated C2-C15 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids.
18. The process according to any one of Claims 14 to 17, wherein the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid is selected from linear and saturated C2-C8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having at least one hydroxy group, preferably selected from tartronic acid, malic acid, malonic acid, a-hydroxy glutaric acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, saccharic acid, glutaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
19. The process according to any one of Claims 14 to 18, wherein the (d) fatty amine is selected from alkylamidoamines represented by the following formula (I):RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(I) whereinRCO denotes an acyl group, which may have C6-22 carbon atoms, R1and R2denote, independently, a Ci-6 alkyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5.
20. The process according to any one of Claims 14 to 19, wherein the (d) fatty amine is selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
21. The process according to any one of Claims 14 to 20, wherein the amount of the (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. The process according to any one of Claims 14 to 21, wherein the amount of the (c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acid(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. The process according to any one of Claims 14 to 22, wherein the amount of the (d) fatty amine(s) in the composition ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 23, wherein the process is not a process for cleansing or shampooing keratin fibers.
25. A composition for conditioning keratin fibers, comprising:(a) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant;(c) at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and(d) at least one fatty amine.