Composition comprising specific ratio of cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants
A composition with a specific ratio of fatty amines and amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants addresses the lack of effective conditioning in existing hair products, achieving improved smoothing and conditioning effects on keratin fibers from application, with reduced silicones and other surfactants.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-12
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions do not effectively provide conditioning effects to keratin fibers from the application stage, and there is a need for improved smoothing and conditioning properties in hair products.
A composition comprising a specific ratio of fatty amines and amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants, with a weight ratio ranging from 3 to 60, along with minimal amounts of silicones, anionic surfactants, and cationic polymers, to condition keratin fibers.
The composition provides improved cosmetic effects such as smoothening and conditioning properties to keratin fibers, including hair, from the application stage, without the need for rinsing.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] COMPOSITION COMPRISING SPECIFIC RATIO OF CATIONIC SURFACTANTS AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition comprising a specific ratio of cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibers using the same.
[0006] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0007] Hair products for conditioning hair in order to achieve smoothing effect on hair are widely favored by customers. Hair conditioning products are used for curing hair damage.
[0008] For example, JP-A-2008- 133224 discloses a hair cosmetic comprising (A) a gallic acid derivative, (B) an amide-amine compound, (C) an amphoteric surfactant, (D) ethanol, and (E) a propellant, which can impart a good touch feeling, in particular, smoothness to the hair and exhibit high low-temperature storage stability.
[0009] Also, EP-A-2138154 discloses a cosmetic hair treatment preparation intended for rinsing after application, comprising amidoamines and 0.0001 to 1% active content of amphoteric surfactants.
[0010] However, there is still a demand for a new cosmetic composition which can impart conditioning effects to keratin fibers, preferably from the application stage.
[0011] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0012] An objective of the present invention is to provide a new composition for conditioning keratin fibers, which can provide keratin fibers with an improved cosmetic effect, such as a smoothening effect preferably from the application stage.
[0013] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:
[0014] (a) at least one fatty amine; and
[0015] (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant; wherein a weight ratio of a total amount of cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to a total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one aminoacid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
[0016] The (a) fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines which is represented by the following formula (A):
[0017] RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(A) wherein
[0018] RCO denotes an acyl group, which may have C6-22 carbon atoms, R1and R2denote, independently, a C1-6 alkyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5. The (a) fatty amine may be selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
[0019] The (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from (Cs- C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (Cs-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof.
[0020] The (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
[0021] The amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The composition according to the present invention may be for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0024] The composition may comprise silicones in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of any silicones.
[0025] The composition may comprise anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 20% by weight, more preferably less than 10% by weight, even more preferably less than 5% by weight, and in particular less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of any anionic surfactants.
[0026] The composition may comprise cationic polymers in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of any cationic polymers.
[0027] The composition may further comprise at least one oil. The present invention also relates to process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of an application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratin fibers.
[0028] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0029] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that a composition, which comprises (a) at least one fatty amine and (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant and which comprises a specific ratio of cationic surfactant(s) and amphoteric surfactant(s), can provide the hair with improved cosmetic effects, and thus completed the invention.
[0030] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising:
[0031] (a) at least one fatty amine; and
[0032] (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant; wherein a weight ratio of a total amount of cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to a total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one aminoacid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
[0033] The composition according to present invention is very preferred for conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair, since it can provide the keratin fibers with improved cosmetic effects of improved conditioning properties, such as a smoothening effect, from the application stage.
[0034] Hereinafter, the process and composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.
[0035] [Composition]
[0036] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0037] (a) at least one fatty amine; and
[0038] (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant; wherein a weight ratio of a total amount of cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to a total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one aminoacid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "keratin fiber" includes hair, eyebrow, and eyelash, and preferably hair.
[0040] The composition according to the present invention may be for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair. For the purpose of the present invention, the expression of "conditioning keratin fibers" indicates to conditioning keratin fibers by providing the keratin fibers with cosmetic effects, such as hair-smoothing effects, and does not indicate cleaning the keratin fibers, such as shampooing the keratin fibers.
[0041] Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be different from shampoo compositions, or may not be a composition for cleaning keratin fibers or a shampoo composition. In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is used to keratin fibers, preferably hair, before and / or after shampooing.
[0042] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is intended to be applied to keratin fibers, in particular hair. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be a topical cosmetic composition.
[0043] The composition according to the present invention may be a leave-on or rinse-off type. The leave-on type composition is not rinsed off after being used on the hair. The rinse-off type composition is rinsed off after being used on the hair.
[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a hair-treatment or a conditioner for hair.
[0045] The composition according to the present invention may take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O / W or W / O form), multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cream.
[0046] The ingredients in the composition will be described in detail below.
[0047] (Fatty Amine)
[0048] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty amine. A single type of (a) fatty amine may be used, or two or more different types of (a) fatty amines may be used in combination.
[0049] Fatty amine is one type of cationic surfactants and has a function as a cationic surfactant.
[0050] The term “fatty” here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms.
[0051] The (a) fatty amine may have a substituted or non-substituted, hydrocarbon group such as alkyl group, which may have from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The substituent may be a hydroxyl group or a polyoxyalkylene group.
[0052] The (a) fatty amine may be in the form of a primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine.
[0053] The (a) fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines, which may be Ce-24 alkylamido Ci-6 dialkylamines, and preferably C10-22 alkylamido C1-4 dialkylamines. The alkylamidoamines may be represented by the following formula (A):
[0054] RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(A) wherein
[0055] RCO denotes an acyl group, which may have C6-24 carbon atoms, preferably C10-C22 carbon atoms such as stearoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, and cocoyl,
[0056] R1and R2denote, independently, a C1-6 alkyl group, preferably a CM alkyl group, such as a methyl group and an ethyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3, and more preferably 2 or 3.
[0057] The (a) fatty amine may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0058] The salt of the fatty amine is not limited. The salts of (a-1) fatty amines may be chosen from halogens, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, citrates, lactates, and alkylsulfates.
[0059] For example, the salts of the (a) fatty amine may be selected from stearylamine hydrochloride, soyamine chloride, stearylamine formate, N-tallowpropane diaminedi chloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine citrate.
[0060] The (a) fatty amine may be selected from alkylamidoamines, preferably C6-22 alkylamido C1-6 dialkylamines, and more preferably may be stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0061] The amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] The amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] The amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount.
[0065] (Amino-acid Type Amphoteric Surfactant)
[0066] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant. A single type of (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.
[0067] For the present invention, the term "amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant" means amphoteric surfactants including at least one amino-acid moiety having a secondary or tertiary amine group, and a carboxylate salt group. These secondary or tertiary amine group give and receive hydrogen ion in response to pH, leading the amine group to be positively charged under isoelectric to acidic pH. Amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant also has a negatively charged anionic moiety of a carboxyl group (-COO') under an isoelectric to basic pH. The (a) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant can be different from so-called betaine- type amphoteric surfactants, which have a positively charged cationic moiety of a quaternary ammonium salt in an arbitrary pH.
[0068] Specifically, the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants have the following structures: R1R2HN+-(CX’X2)n-COOH in an acidic condition,
[0069] R1R2HN+-(C X1X2)n~COO' in an isoelectric condition, and R'l N-CC X’X COO- in a basic condition, wherein R1and R2represent organic groups, for example, hydrocarbon groups, and X1and X2represent H or other known functional groups, respectively.
[0070] On the other hand, betaine-type surfactants have the have the following structures: R1R2R3N+-CH2COOH in an acidic condition, and R1R2R3N+~CH2COO' in an isoelectric to basic conditions, wherein R1, R2and R3represent organic groups, for example, hydrocarbon groups.
[0071] Thus, the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant comprises at least one secondary or tertiary amine group while does not comprise a positively charged quaternary ammonium salt. On the other hand, betaine-type surfactants comprise a positively charged quaternary ammonium salt while does not comprise at least one secondary or tertiary amine group.
[0072] The (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant of the present invention can be selected from alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphodipropionates, and salts thereof.
[0073] Non-limiting examples of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants, mention can be made of those represented by formula (la):
[0074] Ra'— CON(Z)CH2— (CH2)m’— N(B)(B’) (la) wherein:
[0075] B represents — CH2CH2OX', with X' representing — CH2— COOH, CH2— COOZ’, — CH2CH2— COOH, — CH2CH2— , COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
[0076] B' represents — CH2)z — Y', with z=l or 2, and Y' representing — COOH, — COOZ’, — CH2 — CHOH— SO3H, or — CH2— CHOH— SO3Z’; m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2;
[0077] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
[0078] Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanol- amine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, 2-amino-2 -methyl- 1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxy- methyl)aminomethane; and
[0079] Ra' represents a (Cio-C3o)alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
[0080] The (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant can be particularly represented by Formula (lb) or (Ic):
[0081] (Ic) wherein R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms.
[0082] Although sodium is shown as the cation in the above formulae, the cation may be any alkali metal ion, such as sodium or potassium, an ammonium ion, or an alkanolammonium ion such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
[0083] Exemplary compounds of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may include (Cs- C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof, and preferably selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
[0084] The amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.03% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.05% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] The amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] The amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] (Optional Ingredients)
[0088] The composition may comprise at least one following optional ingredient. The at least one optional may be included or may not be included in the composition according to the present invention.
[0089] - Cationic Surfactant
[0090] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant other than the (a) fatty amine. Two or more types of cationic surfactants other than the (a) fatty amine may be used in combination.
[0091] The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (V) below: wherein
[0093] Ri, R2, R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C12- C22)alkylamido(C -C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl grpups; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; preferably alkyl groups; and X’ is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-Ce) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl- sulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (VI) below: wherein:
[0094] Rs is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
[0095] Re is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0096] R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals;
[0097] Rs is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals; and
[0098] X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and Re are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl and Rs is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco; diquatemary ammonium salts of formula (VII): wherein:
[0099] R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0100] Rio, Rn, Rn, RB, and RM, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
[0101] X' is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates. An example of one such diquatemary ammonium salt is propane tallow diammonium dichloride; and quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VIII) below: wherein:
[0102] R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl radicals, and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
[0103] R23 is chosen from: the radical below: linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen,
[0104] R25 is chosen from: the radical below:
[0105] O
[0106] R28C- linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals R29, and hydrogen,
[0107] R24, R26, and R 8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals; r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; each of rl and tl, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and tl+2t=2t; y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X’ is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29. R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is the hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is the hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X' may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X' is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
[0108] In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) may be used, wherein: R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1 ; z is equal to 0 or 1 ; r, s, and t are equal to 2;
[0109] R23 is chosen from: the radical below: methyl, ethyl, and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;
[0110] R25 is chosen from: the radical below:
[0111] O
[0112] R28 -Cand hydrogen;
[0113] R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
[0114] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
[0115] Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (VIII) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl- dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
[0116] These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0117] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
[0118] Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.
[0119] Among the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, quaternary ammonium and diammonium salts include, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltimethylammonium chloride (such as, for example, the products sold under the trade name Dehyquart A by Cognis, or Quartamin 60 W25 by Kao, or Genamin CTAC 25 by Clariant), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the products sold for example by Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85), behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the product sold by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131 ) stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate (INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate) (such as the product Dehyquart F 30 by Cognis), di(CrC2 alkyl)( C12-C22 alkyl)hydroxy(CrC2alkyl)ammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propane tallow diammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] In a particular embodiment the cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] The total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] The total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0123] The total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0124] - Amphoteric Surfactant
[0125] The composition according to the present invention may comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant other than the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant. Two or more types of amphoteric surfactants other than the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant may be used in combination.
[0126] The amphoteric surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may be derivatives of optionally quatemized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0127] The amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxy lated derivatives .
[0128] The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (Cs-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci- Cs)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulphobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (Cs- C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-Cs)alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
[0129] The amphoteric surfactant used can be preferably selected from phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably selected from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably selected from lecithins.
[0130] Lecithin according to the present invention may be from soya, sunflower, egg and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the lecithin is from soya, like the one sold under the name EMULMETIK 100 J by the company CARGILL.
[0131] The total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.03% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.05% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] The total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] The total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactants in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention has a characteristic in that the weight ratio of the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) fatty amine(s) to the total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) ranges from 3 to 60.
[0134] In some specific embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) to the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) may range from 3 to 45, from 3 to 30, from 3 to 20, or from 3 to 10.
[0135] In another embodiment, a weight ratio of the amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) to the total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) may range from 3 to 60. In some specific embodiments, the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) to the total amount of the amphoteric surfactant(s) may range from 3 to 45, from 3 to 30, from 3 to 20, or from 3 to 10.
[0136] In yet another embodiment, a weight ratio of the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) to the amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) may range from 3 to 60. In some specific embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) to the amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) may range from 3 to 45, from 3 to 30, from 3 to 20, or from 3 to 10.
[0137] In yet another preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) to the amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) may range from 3 to 60. In some specific embodiments, the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) to the amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) may range from 3 to 45, from 3 to 30, from 3 to 20, or from 3 to 10.
[0138] - Water
[0139] The composition typically comprises water.
[0140] The amount of water in the composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] The amount of water in the composition may be 97.5% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 92.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] The amount of water in the composition may range from 50% to 97.5% by weight, preferably from 65% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 92.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] - Oil
[0144] The composition may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0145] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste (non-solid), or solid, preferably a liquid or a paste, at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (105Pa). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0146] Among the oils which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0147] For the purposes of the present invention, “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.
[0148] For the purposes of the present invention, “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
[0149] The oil is different from the (a) fatty amine.
[0150] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, poly decenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9- 12 Alkane, C 10- 13 Alkane, C 13 - 14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, CIS- 21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9- 16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C 10- 12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C 11 - 14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C Ills Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 2- 13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.
[0151] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0152] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0153] The plant oils may be plant-extracted butters. Among the plant-extracted butters, the following may be cited: shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter.
[0154] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0155] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, fatty alcohols, and artificial triglycerides.
[0156] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0157] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0158] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl esters, in particular, cetostearyl octanoate and isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0159] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0160] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0161] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. Note that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0162] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0163] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0164] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0165] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0166] The fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0167] As the fatty acid, mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
[0168] As the ether oil, dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula: R'-O-R2wherein each of R1and R2independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably C8-C12 alkyl group. It is preferable that R1and R2are the same.
[0169] As the linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.
[0170] As the branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2- methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5- methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5- methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5- methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2- hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3 -dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1, 1,3,3- tetramethylbutyl group, a 3, 5, 5 -trimethylhexyl group, a l-(2-methylpropyl)-3 -methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyyl group, and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0171] As the cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0172] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0173] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof. The oil may be preferably selected from ester oils and fatty alcohols.
[0174] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] The total amount of the oil(s) in the composition may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] The total amount of the oil(s) in the composition may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] - Adjuvants
[0178] The composition may or may not include any adjuvants typically employed in cosmetics, such as solvents, in particular cosmetically acceptable organic solvents; inorganic or organic powders; anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; anionic or non-ionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; thickeners; dyes; cosmetic active agents; fragrances; antioxidants; pH adjusting agents, reducing agents, alkaline agents, preservatives; chelating or sequestering agents; and opacifying agents, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0179] The total amount of adjuvants in the composition may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0180] The composition according to the present invention can have a characteristic in that it can impart improved smoothness to keratin fibers, in particular hair, even though it does not include or include a tiny amount of silicones. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises silicones in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of any silicones.
[0181] As explained above, the composition according to the present invention is for conditioning keratin fibers, and not a composition for cleaning keratin fibers or not a shampoo composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not include a large amount of anionic surfactants. For example, the composition comprises anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, and even more preferably less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0182] In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of any anionic surfactants. The composition according to the present invention can have a characteristic in that it does not include cationic polymers or include a tiny amount of cationic polymers. In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises cationic polymers in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of any cationic polymers.
[0183] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups, and being positively charged with an entire molecule.
[0184] The pH value of the composition is not particularly limited, but in general ranges from 3.0 to 9.0, preferably from 3.5 to 6.0.
[0185] The composition can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0187] (a) from 0.5% to 15% by weight of the (a) at least one fatty amine; and
[0188] (b) from 0.01% to 5% by weight of the (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
[0189] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0190] (a) from 1% to 10% by weight of the (a) at least one fatty amine selected from alkylamidoamines which is represented by the following formula (A):
[0191] RCONH(CH2)nNR1R2(A) wherein
[0192] RCO denotes an acyl group, which may have Cg-22 carbon atoms, R1and R2denote, independently, a Ci-6 alkyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5; and
[0193] (b) from 0.03% to 3% by weight of the (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant selected from(C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (Cs- C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0195] (a) from 1.5% to 5% by weight of the (a) at least one fatty amine selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof; and
[0196] (b) from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight of the (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to the total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
[0197] [Process]
[0198] The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of an application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratin fibers.
[0199] Thus, the present invention relates to a process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of an application of a composition on the hair, wherein the composition comprises:
[0200] (a) at least one at least one fatty amine; and
[0201] (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant; wherein a weight ratio of a total amount of cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to a total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one aminoacid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
[0202] For the purpose of the present invention, the expression of "conditioning keratin fibers" indicates to conditioning keratin fibers by providing hair with cosmetic effects, such as imparting smoothness to the keratin fibers, and does not indicate cleaning keratin fibers, such as shampooing. Thus, the process according to the present invention is different from a process for cleaning keratin fibers or shampooing keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0203] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process does not include a step of cleaning and / or shampooing keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0204] The step of the application of the composition on the keratin fibers can be performed by any means. For example, the application can be performed by using a hand or any applicators such as a comb or a brush.
[0205] The ingredients (a) and (b) are as explained above. In addition, the composition may comprise additional optional ingredients as explained above.
[0206] The step of the application of the composition can be conducted after a step of shampooing and rinsing the keratin fibers. In one embodiment of the present invention, an optional number of shampooing steps are conducted on the keratin fibers before and / or after the process according to the present invention. Also, another step of conditioning keratin fibers can be carried out in combination with the process according to the present invention.
[0207] The keratin fibers to be treated by the process according to the present invention may be wet or dried. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are wet when the process according to the present invention is performed. Thus, the process according to the present invention can be applied to wet hair.
[0208] It may be possible that, after the application of the composition, the keratin fibers be left as they are for a certain amount of time; typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to let the composition penetrate into the keratin fibers.
[0209] The process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of rinsing the composition off from the keratin fibers after the step of the application. In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratin fibers are rinsed off with water to rinse the applied composition off the keratin fiber.
[0210] EXAMPLES
[0211] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.
[0212] [Compositions]
[0213] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 7 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 7) and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 7) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Tables 1 and 2 below. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. All the composition had a pH value of 4. The "weight ratio [cat / amp]" indicates a weight ratio of a total amount of cationic surfactant(s) to a total weight of amphoteric surfactant(s).
[0214] [Evaluations]
[0215] (Sensorial Evaluation)
[0216] Bleached hair (Chinese, 2.7g, 27cm) was washed using a plain shampoo and then rinsed. Subsequently, 0.4 g / g hair of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 was applied to the bleached hair for evaluation on instant penetration feel.
[0217] After leaving the hair for 5 minutes, the composition was rinsed with water, and then squeezed with fingers twice to remove excess water to prepare treated wet hair as sample for evaluation on smoothness on wet hair.
[0218] The conditioning attributes were assessed by 3 lab experts based on the following criteria. Instant penetration feel at application 1 : Very pleasant 2: Pleasant
[0219] 3: Moderately unpleasant
[0220] 4: Unpleasant
[0221] Smoothness
[0222] 1 : Very smooth
[0223] 2: Smooth
[0224] 3: Moderately not smooth
[0225] 4: Not smooth
[0226] Each of the scores was averaged and are shown in Tables 1 and 2. A smaller number of overall scores indicate perceived better quality of conditioning effects.
[0227] (Combing Force Measurement)
[0228] Bleached hair (Chinese, lg, 27cm) was washed using a plain shampoo and then rinsed. Subsequently, 0.4 g / g hair of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 was applied to the bleached hair. After leaving the hair for 5 minutes, the combing force measurement was carried out on wet hair before rinsing out the composition.
[0229] The treated wet hair was combed twice with fine side of the comb starting from 2.5 cm from the root to the tips while the combing forces were recorded using DIA-STRON MTT175 and SILKOMB PRO-30. The average combing force in the middle of the hair tress (the section between 5 cm to 15 cm away from root) was calculated as a representative combing force.
[0230] The second combing force is shown in the Tables 1 and 2. The second combing force represents a combing force after the first combing is applied and represents a comb-ability of the hair once the hair tress was spread by the first combing.
[0231] The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0232] Tab: e 1
[0233] (1) Genadvance SPA sold by Clariant
[0234] (2) Miranol® Ultra C-32 sold by Syensqo
[0235] Table 2
[0236] (1) Genadvance SPA sold by Clariant
[0237] (2) Miranol® Ultra C-32 sold by Syensqo
[0238] 5 (3) Procondition 22 sold by Index Chemical Company
[0239] (4) Miranol® C2M Cone NP sold by Syensqo
[0240] (5) Mirataine® BB / FLA MB sold by Syensqo
[0241] As shown in Tables 1 and 2, the composition according to each of Examples 1 to 7, which 0 comprised the ingredients (a) and (b) and satisfied the specific range of the amount ratio of the total cationic surfactant(s) and the total amphoteric surfactant(s), could provide the hair with improved cosmetic effects with respect to the instant penetration feel, lower combining force at application, and smoothness on wet hair. Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention could provide the hair with improved 5 conditioning effects of smoothing property from the application stage.
[0242] On the other hand, the composition according to each of Comparative Examples 1 to 6, which did not include the ingredients (a) or (b), or did not satisfy the specific range of the amount ratio of the total cationic surfactant(s) and the total amphoteric surfactant(s), could not 0 provide the hair with sufficient conditioning effects. Also, as shown in Tables 1 and 2, the composition according to each of Examples 2, 4, and 5, which comprises the ingredients (a) and (b), could provide the hair with improved cosmetic effects with respect to the instant penetration feel, lower combining force at application, and, smoothness on wet hair, compared to the composition according to Comparative Example 5, which used a betaine-type amphoteric surfactant instead of the (b) amino acid-type amphoteric surfactant, even though they included the same amount ratio of total cationic surfactant(s) and total amphoteric surfactant(s). Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention using the (b) at least one amino acid-type amphoteric surfactant could provide the hair with improved conditioning effects of smoothing property from an application stage.
[0243] Accordingly, it can be concluded that the composition according to present invention is very preferred for conditioning keratin fibers.
Claims
1. CLAIMS1. A composition comprises :(a) at least one fatty amine; and(b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant; wherein a weight ratio of a total amount of cationic surfactant(s) including the (a) at least one fatty amine to a total amount of amphoteric surfactant(s) including the (b) at least one amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant ranges from 3 to 60.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) fatty amine is selected from alkylamidoamines which is represented by the following formula (A):RCONH(CH2)nNR'R2(A) whereinRCO denotes an acyl group, which may have C6-22 carbon atoms, R1and R2denote, independently, a C1-6 alkyl group, and n denotes an integer from 1 to 5.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) fatty amine is selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylatedstearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, arachidylbehenylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (Cg- C2o)alkylamphopropionates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, (Cg- C2o)alkylamphodipropionates, and combinations thereof.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant is selected from sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium caprylamphoacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, sodium caprylamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphopropionate, sodium caprylomphopropionate, disodium caprylomphodipropionate, lauroamphopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphopropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, sodium olivamphoacetate, sodium sweetalmondamphoacetate, sodium ricebranamphoacetate, sodium sunflowerseedamphoacetate, and combinations thereof.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the (a) fatty amine(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the (b) amino-acid type amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, which is for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair.
9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises silicones in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition is free of any silicones.
10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises anionic surfactants in an amount of less than 20% by weight, more preferably less than 10% by weight, even more preferably less than 5% by weight, and in particular less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition is free of any anionic surfactants.
11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition comprises cationic polymers in an amount of less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition is free of any cationic polymers.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , further comprising at least one oil.
13. A process for conditioning keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of an application of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 on the keratin fibers.