Keratin fibre treatment process comprising the applications of a first composition based on cationic agents and of a second composition based on polyols
A hair treatment process using cationic agents and polyols provides uniform, intense, and long-lasting color with improved conditioning, while reducing petrochemical use, addressing the limitations of existing dyeing methods.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dyeing processes face issues such as unsatisfactory dyeing power, limited color range, selectivity, damage to hair, and inadequate conditioning properties, along with environmental concerns related to petrochemical use.
A process involving the application of a composition containing cationic agents and polyols, including cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, and fatty substances, followed by a composition with high polyol and fatty monoalcohol content, to achieve uniform, intense, and long-lasting hair color with improved conditioning and environmental sustainability.
The process results in homogeneous color from root to tip, resistance to external agents, and enhanced hair manageability, with a pleasant texture and reduced petrochemical use, addressing environmental concerns.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[0001] KERATIN FIBRE TREATMENT PROCESS COMPRISING THE APPLICATIONS OF A FIRST COMPOSITION BASED ON CATIONIC AGENTS AND OF A SECOND COMPOSITION BASED ON POLYOLS
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair treatment and more particularly the dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular the hair. The invention aims to provide a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application of a first colouring composition based on cationic agents, and of a conditioning composition based in particular on polyols.
[0003] Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair and in particular to mask their grey hair.
[0004] In the field of dyeing hair keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, it is already known practice to dye hair keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing.
[0005] There are essentially three types of processes for dyeing the hair:
[0006] a) “permanent” dyeing, the function of which is to afford a substantial modification to the natural colour and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fibre and forms the dye via an oxidative condensation process;
[0007] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes;
[0008] c) temporary dyeing, which gives rise to a modification of the natural colour of the hair that remains from one shampoo wash to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct a shade that has already been obtained. It may also be likened to a “makeup” process.
[0009] It is thus known practice to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, to obtain “permanent” dyeing with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases, such as ortho- or paraphenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
[0010] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.However, the use of these dye compositions may entail a certain number of drawbacks.
[0011] Specifically, after application to keratin fibres, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, and lead to a limited range of colours.
[0012] The colourings may also be insufficiently fast with respect to external agents such as light, shampoo washing or perspiration, and may also be too selective, i.e. the difference in colouring is too great along the same keratin fibre that is differently sensitized between its end and its root.
[0013] The hair can moreover be weakened or damaged by repeated dyeing.
[0014] In addition, the compositions used in current hair dyeing processes generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute uniformly over the keratin fibres (dripping), in particular over the hair.
[0015] These findings are behind the interest in developing new keratin fibres treatment processes, for obtaining a colouring of keratin fibres that is unselective (i.e. homogeneous from root to tip), intense, long-lasting, chromatic, with good colour build-up, and which are capable of resulting in dyeings that are resistant to the various attacks to which the fibres may be subjected, such as weather conditions, washing and perspiration, and also capable of resulting in good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.
[0016] It is also of interest that these new processes have good working properties such as a pleasant odour, a pleasant texture, that they are easy to use, and that they also impart care / conditioning properties to the keratin fibres, more particularly softness to the touch, suppleness, shine and / or smoothness to the touch.
[0017] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.
[0018] It is thus proving essential to provide more sustainable processes, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.
[0019] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic processes with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and moreparticularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0020] These aims are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is in particular a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps:
[0021] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:
[0022] (i) at least one dye,
[0023] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant (entitled TCA),
[0024] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,
[0025] (iv) at least one fatty substance (entitled CGA), and
[0026] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:
[0027] (i) at least one cationic surfactant (entitled TCB),
[0028] (ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
[0029] (iii) at least one polyol, in a total content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), and
[0030] (iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0031] It has been found that the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better dyeing properties. In particular, the colouring obtained has low selectivity with good colour build-up, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.
[0032] The keratin fibres colourings obtained with the process according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washing, light, weather conditions, rubbing, perspiration), notably persistent with respect to several shampoo washes.
[0033] The compositions used in the process according to the invention have good working qualities and good cosmetic properties, in particular a pleasant odour and a texture which differs from the hair dyeing compositions usually used, with a creamy texture which spreads particularly smoothly on application, in particular in contact with keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0034] The compositions used in the process according to the invention may have a creamy and firm texture which spreads smoothly on application, while at the same timeenabling homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no dripping), in particular keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0035] It has been found that the compositions used in the process according to the invention result in good scalp comfort during application.
[0036] It has also been found that the hair thus treated by the process according to the invention is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.
[0037] In addition, the compositions used in the process according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably in that they comprise few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0038] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and the example that follows.
[0039] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0040] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;
[0041] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
[0042] - for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and the expression “less than” mean an open-ended range that is respectively strictly greater or strictly less, and hence that the limits are not included;
[0043] - according to the present patent application, “keratin fibres” means more particularly human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair;
[0044] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “hair” is understood as meaning head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes;
[0045] - according to the present patent application, "fatty acid" is understood to mean an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0046] - according to the present patent application, "fatty alcohol" is understood to mean an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0047] - according to the present invention, “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” means acompound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;
[0048] - according to the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 0 to 30.
[0049] According to a first embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:
[0050] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:
[0051] (i) at least one oxidation dye,
[0052] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,
[0053] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,
[0054] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and
[0055] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:
[0056] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB,
[0057] (ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
[0058] (iii) at least one polyol, in a total content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), and
[0059] (iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0060] According to a second embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:
[0061] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:
[0062] (i) at least one direct dye,
[0063] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,
[0064] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,
[0065] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and
[0066] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:(i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB,
[0067] (ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
[0068] (iii) at least one polyol, in a total content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), and
[0069] (iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0070] According to a third embodiment according to the invention, the process comprises at least the following steps:
[0071] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:
[0072] (i) at least one oxidation dye and at least one direct dye,
[0073] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,
[0074] (iii) at least one cationic polymer,
[0075] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, and
[0076] b) at least one step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising: (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB,
[0077] (ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
[0078] (iii) at least one polyol, in a total content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), and
[0079] (iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0080] Said first embodiment of the invention above is particularly preferred. All of the features and preferences described below apply, independently of one another, to all of the above embodiments (first, second and third).
[0081] Composition (A)
[0082] The composition (A) applied during step a) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one dye (i).Preferably, the dye(s) (i) in the composition (A) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from oxidation dyes.
[0083] More preferentially, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye.
[0084] The oxidation dyes
[0085] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one oxidation dye.
[0086] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention does comprise at least one oxidation dye.
[0087] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
[0088] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from one or more oxidation bases. Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0089] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0090] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention are chosen in particular from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0091] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0092] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts.
[0093] Para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, paraphenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0094] Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0095] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenedi amine and 1 , 8 -bi s(2, 5 -diaminophenoxy)-3 , 6 -di oxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0096] Para-aminophenols which are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3 -methylphenol, 4-amino-3 -fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-m ethylphenol, 4-amino- 2 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0097] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5 -methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0098] Heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned include, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0099] Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in the patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0100] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3 -aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3 -aminopyrazolof 1 , 5-a]pyrid-7 -yl)m ethanol, 2-(3 -aminopyrazolof 1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin- 4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0101] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines preferably substituted on carbonatom 2 with:
[0102] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, it being possible for said alkyl group to be substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;
[0103] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-Ce)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or
[0104] c) a (Ci-Ce)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0105] The pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and solvates of the salts, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0106] Pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3 -methyl- 1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4.5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3 -hydroxymethyl- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1 -isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino- 1 ,3 -dimethylpyrazole, 3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3, 5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-l -methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0107] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in the patent application FR-A-2886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-l,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-di ethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4, 5-diamino-l,2-bis(2 -hydroxy ethyl)- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4-amino-5-(3 -dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-l ,2-di ethyl- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof.
[0108] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0109] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0110] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0111] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from O.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0112] In one particular embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, the addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof.
[0113] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibres.
[0114] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0115] Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0116] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-5 -ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2, 4-diamino-l-(P-hy droxy ethyloxy )benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hy droxy ethylamino)- 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3 -diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3 -ureido-1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-m ethyl- 1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hy droxy ethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hy droxy ethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3 -aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0117] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0118] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0119] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hy droxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-3 -hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, 2, 4-diamino-l-(B-hy droxy ethyloxy )benzene, the addition salts thereof, such as hy droxy ethyl-3,4-m ethylenedi oxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene hydrochloride, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0121] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from meta-aminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, 2, 4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene, the addition salts thereof, such as hydroxy ethyl-3,4-m ethylenedi oxyaniline hydrochloride, 2, 4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene hydrochloride, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) chosen from meta-aminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-3 -hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, 2, 4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene, the addition salts thereof, such as hydroxy ethyl-3,4-m ethylenedi oxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene hydrochloride, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0122] In a particular embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0123] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes chosen from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0124] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenol s, meta-diphenols, coupling agents based on naphthalene, heterocyclic coupling agents, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,meta-aminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-3 -hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, 2,4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, the addition salts thereof such as N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine sulfate, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline hydrochloride, 2, 4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene hydrochloride, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, the total content of oxidation dye(s) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0126] The direct dyes
[0127] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one direct dye.
[0128] The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
[0129] The term “direct dye" means coloured entities. These are dyes which will spread superficially on the fibre.
[0130] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2 -nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxy ethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2 -nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(|3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -methoxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-6-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3 -nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3 -nitrobenzene.
[0132] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0133] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
[0134] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A’-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.
[0135] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0136] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-m ethylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxy ethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0137] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0138] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-P-hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chl oro-4’ -hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chl oro-4’ -methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl- 1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3 -[4’ -N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.
[0139] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leucoindigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamin, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechualdehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
[0140] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin-3 -gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, aesculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
[0141] More preferentially, the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] More preferentially, the direct dyes are chosen from ionic direct dyes, better still from cationic direct dyes.
[0143] Even more preferentially, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.When the composition (A) comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0144] When the composition (A) comprises at least one cationic direct dye, the total content of cationic direct dye(s) is preferably ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0145] Preferably, the total content of dye(s) in composition (A) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.002% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 5%, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0146] Cationic surfactants TCA
[0147] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant TCA.
[0148] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is described as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized to a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition used in the process of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.
[0149] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA that can be used in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below, and mixtures thereof.According to a first embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA that can be used in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type; more preferentially from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0150] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA that can be used in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type; more preferentially from cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below.
[0151] More preferentially still, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants TCA chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof.
[0152] Better still, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises, as cationic surfactants TCA, at least a first cationic surfactant of fatty amine type and at least a second cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
[0153] Even better still, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined below.
[0154] Cationic surfactants TCA of fatty amine type:
[0155] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA of fatty amine type are chosen from (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated) primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0156] A “fatty amine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.
[0157] Said cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0158] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0159] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.As cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0160] An “amidoamine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0161] A “fatty amidoamine” is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0162] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines of use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0163] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;
[0164] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0165] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0166] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine. stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine,olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0168] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition used in the process according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may "quatemize" in situ).
[0169] Preferably, the cationic surfactants TCA of fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;
[0170] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0171] more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0172] and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0173] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants TCA of fatty amine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA of fatty amine type ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially stillfirom 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0174] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants TCA of fatty amidoamine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA chosen from fatty amidoamines ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0175] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants TCA of fatty amidoamine type of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 described above ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0176] Cationic surfactants TCA of quaternary ester type:
[0177] For the purposes of the invention, the term “ cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type'' means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0178] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA of quaternary ester type are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:
[0179]
[0180] in which:
[0181] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,
[0182] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxy alkyl groups,
[0183] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and
[0184] - X' represents an anion.
[0185] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.
[0186] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.
[0187] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated. Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.
[0188] Preferably, A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A' are identical.
[0189] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group.
[0190] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci-C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.
[0191] The anion X' preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.
[0192] More preferentially, the anion X~ represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate. More preferentially still, the anion X~ represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.
[0193] Said cationic surfactants TCA of quaternary ester type, in particular of formula (A), are different from the cationic surfactants TCA of fatty amine type described above.
[0194] Advantageously, said cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type may be in the form of a salt, such as a salt of a halide, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate, (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate salt.Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0195] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical;
[0196] - R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group;
[0197] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group; - X' represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X' represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X~ represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.
[0198] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,
[0199] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups,
[0200] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably A and A' are identical; and
[0201] - X~ represents an anion chosen from halides and (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate groups.
[0202] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCA of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, di stearoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimoniumchloride, dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0203] Better still, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant TCA of formula (A) in salt form, notably a dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0204] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants TCA of quaternary ester type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA of quaternary ester type ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0205] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants TCA of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA of formula (A) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0206] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants TCA of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, di stearoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, di stearoyl ethyl dimonium chloride, dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, di stearoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA in the composition (A) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0207] Preferably, when they are present in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA of formula (A) and cationic surfactant(s) TCA of fatty amine type ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0208] Cationic polymers
[0209] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.
[0210] The cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any silicon atoms).
[0211] The term “cationic polymer” is intended to mean any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0212] The cationic polymers that may be employed preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g.
[0213] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and the molar proportion or weight proportion thereof. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5*106approximately and preferably between 103and 3*106approximately.
[0214] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:
[0215] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the formulae below:
[0216]
[0217] in which:
[0218] - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
[0219] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0220] - R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0221] - Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0222] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0223] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
[0224] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
[0225] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxy ethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
[0226] the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
[0227] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,
[0228] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
[0229] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
[0230] quatemized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
[0231] - polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer inmineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.
[0232] (2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
[0233] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0234] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
[0235] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.
[0236] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may most particularly be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quatemized hydroxyethylcelluloses, it being possible for the quatemizing agent to be in particular diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxy ethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.
[0237] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0238] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.
[0239] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notablythose comprising cationic trialkylammonium, notably trimethylammonium, groups. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).
[0240] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.
[0241] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar Cl 5, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Solvay.
[0242] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0243] (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;
[0244] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; thesepolyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;
[0245] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;
[0246] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer;
[0247] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
[0248]
[0249] in which
[0250] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + 1 being equal to 1;
[0251] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;- Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a Ci-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rw and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0252] - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
[0253] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;
[0254] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
[0255]
[0256] in which:
[0257] - R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals;
[0258] or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;
[0259] or else R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0260] - Ai and Bi represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and- X' denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
[0261] it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
[0262] in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxy alkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n-C0-D-0C-(CH2)P- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
[0263] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)X-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0264] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;
[0265] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
[0266] Preferably, X' is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.
[0267] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
[0268]
[0269] in which Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X~ is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0270] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
[0271] (9) poly quaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula:
[0272]
[0273] in which:
[0274] - Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0275] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0276] - X' denotes an anion such as a halide,
[0277] - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0278] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by Miranol.
[0279] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF;
[0280] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;
[0281] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:
[0282] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
[0283] — CH2— CH —
[0284] NH2
[0285]
[0286] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
[0287]
[0288] In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0289] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
[0290] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
[0291] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000000 g / mol, preferably from 10000 to 1 000000 and more particularly from 100000 to 500000 g / mol.
[0292] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
[0293] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0294] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride), notably copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide such as Polyquatemium-7;
[0295] - cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses such as Polyquatemium-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.
[0296] More preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially still from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof; better still from cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.
[0297] Preferably, the total content of cationic polymer(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01%to 8% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0298] Preferably, the total content of cationic polymer(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0299] Preferably, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0300] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0301] Fatty substances CGA
[0302] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance CGA.
[0303] According to the invention, the fatty substances CGA are different from fatty acids.
[0304] According to the invention, the fatty substances CGA are different from the cationic surfactants described previously.
[0305] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 *105Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.The fatty substances CGA that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0306] Preferably, the fatty substances CGA that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0307] A “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and a “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
[0308] The fatty substances CGA that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. A “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of below or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 *105Pa) and a “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point (m.p.) above 25°C (m.p. > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0309] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).
[0310] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0311] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0312] As regards the Ce to Cie liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0313] A hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
[0314] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0315] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcy cl obutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0316] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0317] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances CGA are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from plant oils.The solid faty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1.
[0318] The solid faty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 faty acids and / or of C9-C26 faty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0319] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0320] The solid faty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, beter still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0321] The solid faty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0322] The solid faty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0323] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0324] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0325] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbonatoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0326] Use may also be made of the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0327] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0328] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, particularly myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, particularly myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0329] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 monoalcohol.
[0330] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monoalcohol.
[0331] Mention may in particular be made of esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl Esters).
[0332] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, and which may be up to 200°C, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving thecomposition that comprises them a relatively opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0333] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0334] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
[0335] Mention may further be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Micro wax HW.
[0336] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0337] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, particularly the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0338] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.
[0339] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0340] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product soldunder the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
[0341] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or flower absolute waxes, such as the blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0342] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0343] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
[0344] R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0345] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)ngroup, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0346] R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted by one or more Ci-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
[0347] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0348] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; andR3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0349] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3 -diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0350] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0351] Butters may also be used.
[0352] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a start-of-melting temperature above 25 °C and an end-of-melting temperature below 60°C.
[0353] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas,published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0354] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow Shorea slenoplera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mouleyana . phulwara butter (M. bulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter Pentadesma butyracea coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gralissima), olive butter Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0355] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.
[0356] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.
[0357] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0358] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) CGA in composition (A) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still from plant oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0359] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substance(s), preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and one or more liquid fatty substance(s), preferably chosen from plant oils.Preferably, the total content of fatty substances CGA in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.5% to 55% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 45% by weight, more preferentially still from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30%, even better still from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0360] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of solid fatty substance(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 45% by weight, more preferentially still from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, even better still from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0361] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0362] The alkaline agents
[0363] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may advantageously additionally comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0364] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention does comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0365] The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used without distinction.
[0366] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
[0367] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / oroxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 -diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.
[0368] The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0369] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
[0370] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) is (are) chosen from monoethanol amine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and mixtures thereof.
[0371] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0372] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -di ethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.
[0373] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.
[0374] Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
[0375] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanol amine and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide.
[0376] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of alkaline agent(s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0377] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine, the total content of alkanolamine(s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0378] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises ammonium hydroxide, the total content of ammonium hydroxide ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0379] The sequestrants
[0380] Advantageously, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
[0381] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention does comprise at least one sequestrant.
[0382] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which acompound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
[0383] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0384] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
[0385] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
[0386] As examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenedi aminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, such as disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanol diglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid, such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45 S from Akzo Nobel.
[0387] As examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy -1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hy droxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
[0388] As examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0389] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0390] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
[0391] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; these being optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, for instance etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0392] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0393] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0394] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or the alkali metalor alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0395] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0396] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0397] More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethyl enedi aminetetraaceti c aci d (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
[0398] More preferentially still, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
[0399] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
[0400] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of sequestrant(s) ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0401] Preferably, when the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, the total content of sequestrant(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).Compounds of amino acid type:
[0402] Advantageously, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also additionally comprise at least one or more compounds of amino acid type.
[0403] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention does comprise one or more compounds of amino acid type.
[0404] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “compound of amino acid type” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.
[0405] According to the invention, said compounds of amino acid type are different from the oxidation dyes, direct dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants TCA, cationic polymers, fatty substances CGA, sequestrants, as described above, and from the (poly)carboxylic acids and organic solvents as described below.
[0406] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from compounds of amino acid type comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (thus not comprising any sulfonic acid functions) and / or salts thereof. Said compounds are also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.
[0407] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof.
[0408] The compounds of amino acid type may thus correspond to formula (I):
[0409]
[0410] in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
[0411] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl and preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle, this ring not being substituted.
[0412] Preferably, p = 2.
[0413] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
[0414] Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.
[0415] The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).
[0416] These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, for instance the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.
[0417] The compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of an optical isomer ofL, D or DL configuration, preferably ofL configuration.
[0418] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.
[0419] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.
[0420] Preferentially, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0421] Better still, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.
[0422] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.
[0423] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type is glycine.
[0424] When the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5%by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0425] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of aminocarboxylic acid type in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0426] Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0427] Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0428] Even better still, the content of glycine in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0429] (Poly)carboxylic acids
[0430] Advantageously, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also additionally comprise at least one or more (poly)carboxylic acids.
[0431] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, a salt thereof or mixtures thereof.
[0432] According to the invention, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) are different from the compounds of amino acid type described previously.
[0433] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the oxidation dyes, direct dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactantsTCA, cationic polymers, fatty substances CGA, sequestrants, and compounds of amino acid type as described above, and from the organic solvents as described below. Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is (are) chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of formula (II) below:
[0434]
[0435] In which formula (II):
[0436] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better still between 1 and 5, even better still between 1 and 3; preferably, n = 1 or 2, more preferably n = 2;
[0437] - A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n = 0) or multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is other than 0), comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).
[0438] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Ci-Ce)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or phenylene group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0439] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are a-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-Ce)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or a phenylene group, substituted with 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 hydroxyl group; and n = 0 to 2.
[0440] Mention may be made in particular of the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:
[0441] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-Ce)alkyl and notably (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;
[0442] - n = 0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted with 1 OH radical; or
[0443] - n = 1 or 2 and A is a divalent or trivalent (Ci-Ce)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.
[0444] Preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be chosen from:
[0445] - citric acid (n = 2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-);
[0446] - salicylic acid (n = 0 and A = phenyl substituted with an OH);
[0447] - lactic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH3); and
[0448] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and divalent A = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).Even more preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.
[0449] When composition (A) comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0450] In a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0451] Organic solvents
[0452] Advantageously, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0453] Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.
[0454] Within the meaning of the invention, the organic solvents are different from the oxidation dyes, direct dyes, cationic surfactants TCA, cationic polymers, fatty substances CGA, alkaline agents and sequestrants as described above.
[0455] As organic solvents, examples that may be mentioned include a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (25°C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0456] For the purposes of the present invention the term “polyol” means an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably a C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5 hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borneby different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0457] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are in particular different from aminoalkanols such as di aminopropanols.
[0458] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.
[0459] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane-1, 3-diol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still from propylene glycol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, and even better still glycerol.
[0460] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0461] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0462] Water
[0463] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention also comprises water.
[0464] Preferably, the total content of water in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is within the range of from 20% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, more preferentially still from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0465] The pH
[0466] Preferably, the pH of the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 7 and 12.5, morepreferentially still between 8 and 12, better still between 9 and 12 and even better still between 10 and 11.5.
[0467] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0468] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0469] Among the alkalizing agents, use may be made of the alkaline agents as described previously.
[0470] The additives
[0471] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described previously, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV screening agents, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0472] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0473] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, which is preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0474] (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one direct dye,
[0475] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA; preferably chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof, (iii) at least one cationic polymer, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferentially still from cationic guar gums,
[0476] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, plant oils, and mixtures thereof,
[0477] (v) optionally at least one alkaline agent,
[0478] (vi) optionally at least one sequestrant,
[0479] (vii) optionally at least one compound of amino acid type, and
[0480] (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid.
[0481] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, which is preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0482] (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one direct dye,
[0483] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA; preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as described above, and mixtures thereof,
[0484] (iii) at least one cationic polymer, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferentially still from cationic guar gums,
[0485] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, plant oils, and mixtures thereof,
[0486] (v) at least one alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide, and
[0487] (vi) at least one sequestrant chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof,
[0488] (vii) optionally at least one compound of amino acid type, preferably glycine, and (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid, preferably citric acid.Preferably, the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a smooth cream.
[0489] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1500 mPa.s (i.e. 1500 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e.
[0490] 2000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP), more preferentially still greater than or equal to 4400 mPa.s (i.e. 4400 cP).
[0491] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 1500 mPa.s to 10000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 9500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3500 mPa.s to 9000 mPa.s, better still from 3800 mPa.s to 8500 mPa.s, even better still from 4000 mPa.s to 8000 mPa.s.
[0492] The dynamic viscosity of the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0493] Composition (B)
[0494] Advantageously, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention is different from the composition (A) as described above.
[0495] Cationic surfactants TCB
[0496] The composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant TCB.
[0497] The above description of the cationic surfactants TCA included in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is reiterated here in its entirety to describe the cationic surfactants TCB included in the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention.
[0498] In other words, the cationic surfactant(s) TCB may be chosen from the cationic surfactants TCA as described above.
[0499] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) TCB that can be used in the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type.More preferentially, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amine type.
[0500] More preferentially still, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amidoamine type comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0501] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;
[0502] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0503] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0504] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;
[0505] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0506] more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine,and mixtures thereof;
[0507] and even better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0508] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCB in composition (B) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0509] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0510] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amidoamine type ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0511] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amidoamine type of formula RCONHR’ ’N(R’)2 ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0512] Fatty monoalcohols
[0513] The composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises (ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.
[0514] Preferably, the fatty monoalcohol(s) (ii) are chosen from Cs-Cu fatty monoalcohols, fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms (> C15), and mixtures thereof.
[0515] The fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms are also referred to, in the remainder of the description, as fatty alcohols comprising more than 14 carbon atoms precisely.
[0516] According to the invention, a "monoalcohoF is an alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl group -OH.
[0517] The fatty monoalcohol(s) comprising at least 8 carbon atoms according to the invention are in fact different from the polyols as described below.Cs-Ci4 fatty monoalcohols
[0518] The term "Cs-C fatty monoalcohol" means an aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and comprising a single hydroxyl group -OH. These fatty monoalcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0519] Preferably, the Cs-Cu fatty monoalcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally cyclic hydrocarbon group, comprising in total from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
[0520] Preferentially, the Cs-Cu fatty monoalcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
[0521] The Cs-Cu fatty monoalcohols of the invention are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
[0522] Preferably, they are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
[0523] Nonlimiting examples of Cs-Cu fatty monoalcohols include octan-l-ol, octan-2-ol, 2-ethyl-l -hexanol, nonan-l-ol, decan- l-ol, undecanol, lauryl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0524] Preferentially, the Cs-Cu fatty alcohol is myristyl alcohol.
[0525] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of Cs-Cu fatty monoalcohol(s) in the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferentially still greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0526] In particular, the composition (B) may comprise the Cs-Cu fatty monoalcohol(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 9% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 8% by weight and better still from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition(B).Preferably, when they are present, the composition (B) comprises the Cs-Ci4 fatty monoalcohols having the structure R-OH, with R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon group, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 9% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 8% by weight, and better still from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0527] Even better still, the composition (B) comprises myristyl alcohol in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 9% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 8% by weight, and better still from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0528] Fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms
[0529] A “fatty monoalcohol comprising 15 or more carbon atoms” is understood to mean an aliphatic alcohol comprising at least 15 carbon atoms and comprising a single hydroxyl group OH. These fatty monoalcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0530] Preferably, they comprise between 15 and 22 carbon atoms, preferentially between 16 and 20 carbon atoms, or even between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.
[0531] These fatty monoalcohols may be linear or branched, preferably linear; they may be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated.
[0532] Preferably, the fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms have the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally cyclic hydrocarbon group, comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0533] Preferentially, the fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms have the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0534] The fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms of the invention are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).Preferably, they are insoluble in water, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm (i.e.
[0535] 1.013xl05Pa).
[0536] Nonlimiting examples of fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, docosanol, policosanol, myricyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l -dodecanol, 2 -hexyl- 1 -decanol, 2-decyl-l -tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0537] Preferably, the fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms are chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0538] Preferably, when they are present, the fatty monoalcohol(s) comprising 15 or more carbon atoms are present in the composition (B) in a total content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 4.8% by weight, more preferentially still less than or equal to 4.5% by weight, better still less than or equal to 4% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0539] Notably, the composition (B) may comprise the fatty monoalcohol(s) comprising 15 or more carbon atoms in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 4.8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight and better still from 1% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0540] In particular, the composition (B) may comprise the C16-C20 fatty monoalcohol(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 4.8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, and better still from 1% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0541] Preferably, the composition (B) comprises stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 4.8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 4.0% by weight, and better still from 1% to 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).Preferably, the fatty monoalcohols (ii) in composition (B) are chosen from Cs-Cw fatty monoalcohols , fatty alcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from Cs-Cw fatty monoalcohols of structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms; fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms of structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear hydrocarbon group comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0542] Preferably, the total content of fatty monoalcohols (ii) in composition (B) ranges from 0.2% to 14.8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.7% to 13.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1.5% to 12% by weight, and better still from 3% to 10.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0543] Preferably, the total content of fatty monoalcohols chosen from Cs-Cw fatty monoalcohols, fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in the composition (B), ranges from 0.2% to 14.8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.7% to 13.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1.5% to 12% by weight, and better still from 3% to 10.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0544] Preferably, the total content of fatty alcohol(s) chosen from myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, in the composition (B), ranges from 0.2% to 14.8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.7% to 13.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1.5% to 12% by weight, and better still from 3% to 10.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0545] The polyols
[0546] The composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises (iii) at least one polyol.According to the invention, the total content of (s) in composition (B) is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0547] The term “polyol” means a polyhydric alcohol, i.e. a hydrocarbon chain including two or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups. The polyol may have a linear or branched aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic molecular structure, and may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0548] The polyols are different from the fatty alcohols as described above.
[0549] Preferably, said polyol(s) are linear and saturated; they may comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups, notably from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3 and preferentially 2 hydroxyl (-OH) groups.
[0550] They may comprise from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and notably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0551] They do not comprise any oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.
[0552] They are advantageously liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm, i.e. 1.013><105Pa).
[0553] Preferably, the polyols according to the invention comprise 2 hydroxyl groups -OH (diols) and from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and are linear and saturated.
[0554] Preferentially, they may be chosen from propylene glycol (propane- 1,2-diol), propane- 1,3 -diol, butylene glycol (butane- 1,3 -diol), butane-2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane- 1,2-diol), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still from propylene glycol.
[0555] Preferably, the total content of polyol(s) in composition (B) ranges from 50% to 85% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 80% by weight, more preferentially still from 65% to 75% by weight, and better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0556] Preferably, the total content of linear and saturated C2-C6 diol(s) in composition (B) ranges from 50% to 85% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 80% by weight, more preferentially still from 65% to 75% by weight, and better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Preferably, the total content of propylene glycol in the composition (B) ranges from 50% to 85% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 80% by weight, more preferentially still from 65% to 75% by weight, and better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).Monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms
[0557] The composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises (iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0558] Within the meaning of the invention, the total content of monoalcohol(s) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0559] A “Ci-Ce monoalcohol” is understood to mean a molecule that comprises only a single hydroxyl (-OH) group, generally of formula R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic Ci-Ce hydrocarbon chain.
[0560] The OH radical may be in the primary, secondary or tertiary position.
[0561] Preferably, said monoalcohol(s) are linear and saturated. They may comprise from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. They do not comprise any oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.
[0562] More preferentially, the monoalcohol is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still ethanol.
[0563] Preferably, the total content of monoalcohol(s) (iv) in the composition (B) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0564] Preferably, the total content of linear and saturated C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) in composition (B) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0565] Preferably, the total content of ethanol in the composition (B) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0566] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of polyol(s) (iii) to the total content of monoalcohol(s) (iv) in composition (B) is greater than or equal to 1, morepreferentially ranges from 1 to 20, even more preferentially from 2 to 10, better still from 3 to 6.
[0567] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of polyol(s) (iii) chosen from linear and saturated C2-C6 diols to the total content of monoalcohol(s) (iv) chosen from linear and saturated C2-C4 monoalcohols in composition (B) is greater than or equal to 1, more preferentially ranges from 1 to 20, more preferentially still from 2 to 10, better still from 3 to 6.
[0568] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of propylene glycol to the total content of ethanol in composition (B) is greater than or equal to 1, more preferentially ranges from 1 to 20, even more preferentially from 2 to 10, better still from 3 to 6.
[0569] Preferably, the total content of polyol(s) (iii) and monoalcohol(s)(iv) in the composition (B) (i.e. (iii) + (iv)) ranges from 70% to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 75% to 95% by weight, more preferentially still from 80% to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0570] Ci-Ce carboxylic acids
[0571] Advantageously, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one carboxylic acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0572] Preferably, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention also comprises at least one carboxylic acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0573] Said Ci-Ce carboxylic acids are different from the ingredients described above, in particular from the fatty substances described above.
[0574] According to the invention, said Ci-Ce carboxylic acids which may be present in the composition (B) according to the invention are identical to or different from any (poly)carboxylic acids present in the composition (A) used in the process according to the invention.
[0575] Preferably, said carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms correspond to formula (II) below:
[0576]
[0577] in which:
[0578] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better still n = 0 or 1, preferably n = 0; - A is a monovalent (when n = 0) or multivalent (when n is other than 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.
[0579] Mention may be made in particular of the carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:
[0580] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-Cs)alkyl, notably (Ci-C4)alkyl, and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH; or
[0581] - n = 1 and A is a divalent (Ci-C4)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl and / or amino (NH2) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH and / or NH2;
[0582] - n = 2 and A is a trivalent (Ci-C3)alkyl and better still (C2-C3)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl and / or amino (NH2) groups, notably 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH.
[0583] Preferentially, the carboxylic acids may be chosen from:
[0584] - lactic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH3);
[0585] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and divalent A = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-);
[0586] - glutamic acid (n = 1 and divalent A = -CH(NH2)-CH2-CH2-);
[0587] - citric acid (n = 2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-);
[0588] - glycolic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH2(OH)); and
[0589] - levulinic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH2CH2C(O)CH3).
[0590] More preferentially, the carboxylic acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof. Even better still, the carboxylic acid is lactic acid.
[0591] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of Ci-Ce carboxylic acid(s) in composition (B) ranges from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.15% to 2% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, and better still from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).Preferably, when they are present, the total content of Ci-Ce carboxylic acid(s) chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid, and mixtures thereof, in the composition (B), ranges from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.15% to 2% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, and better still from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0592] Preferably, when it is present, the total content of lactic acid, in composition (B), ranges from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.15% to 2% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, and better still from 0.25% to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
[0593] The other ingredients
[0594] Advantageously, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention can optionally further comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients chosen in particular from thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-straightening agents; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0595] Preferably, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention is anhydrous.
[0596] An “anhydrous composition” means a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 1% by weight, better still less than 0.5% or even less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, the composition does not comprise any water (0%).
[0597] In particular, the anhydrous solid composition does not comprise any water added during its preparation, the residual water that may be present possibly originating from the starting materials used during the preparation.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) may be an aqueous composition, for example obtained by dilution of the preceding anhydrous composition. When it contains water, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may have a water content ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably ranging from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
[0598] Preferably, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises no (0%) cationic surfactant of b ehentrim onium chloride and / or cetrimonium chloride (also known as behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) type.
[0599] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention, which is preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0600] (i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain,
[0601] (ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from Cs-Ci4 fatty monoalcohols, fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof,
[0602] (iii) at least one polyol, in a total content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), preferably chosen from linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 hydroxyl groups -OH and from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably propylene glycol,
[0603] (iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B), preferably chosen from linear and saturated monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferentially ethanol, and
[0604] (v) optionally at least one Ci-Ce carboxylic acid.
[0605] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention, which is preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:(i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB, preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain,
[0606] (ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from Cs-Ci4 fatty monoalcohols, fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof,
[0607] (iii) at least one polyol, in a total content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), preferably chosen from linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 hydroxyl groups -OH and from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably propylene glycol,
[0608] (iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B), preferably chosen from linear and saturated monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferentially ethanol, and
[0609] (v) at least one carboxylic acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms of formula (II), preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0610] The process:
[0611] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres.
[0612] According to one embodiment, step a) is carried out before step b).
[0613] According to another embodiment, step b) is carried out before step a).
[0614] Preferably, step a) is carried out before step b).
[0615] When treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, the composition (A) employed during step a) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye and optionally in addition at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0616] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0617] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) which can be used can be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassiumpersulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0618] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0619] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably as described above.
[0620] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0621] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least the steps (1) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (Al) comprising at least one oxidation dye and not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent, as described above, and (2) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above.
[0622] According to this first embodiment of the invention, the treatment process preferably comprises the use of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0623] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (O) ranges from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0624] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) ranges from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0625] According to this first embodiment of the invention, the composition (Al) may be applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously or sequentially with the oxidizing composition (O).
[0626] More preferentially according to this first embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least the following steps:
[0627] (1) a step of preparing a composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixingof:
[0628] a composition (Al) comprising:
[0629] (1) at least one oxidation dye as defined previously,
[0630] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined previously, and
[0631] (iii) at least one cationic polymer as defined previously, and
[0632] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA as defined previously,
[0633] said composition (Al) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with
[0634] a different oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described above; then
[0635] (2) a step of applying to the keratin fibres said composition (AM), and
[0636] (3) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above.
[0637] According to this first embodiment of the invention, step (1) of preparing a composition (AM) is advantageously carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition (AM) to the keratin fibres.
[0638] Preferably, step (2) is carried out before step (3); more preferentially step (1) is carried out, then step (2), then step (3).
[0639] Preferably, according to this first embodiment of the invention, said composition (Al) is mixed with the oxidizing composition (O) in an (Al): (O) weight ratio within the range extending from 1 : 3 to 1 : 1 ; more preferentially from 1 : 2 to 1 : 1.
[0640] The pH of composition (AM) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferentially from 8.5 to 12, and better still from 9 to 11.5.
[0641] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, ranges from 500 mPa.s to 4000 mPa.s, preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3000 mPa.s, better still from 600 mPa.s to 2800 mPa.s, even better still from 650 mPa.s to 2400 mPa.s.
[0642] The dynamic viscosity of the composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0643] Said oxidizing composition (O) optionally used in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (AM) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (AM).
[0644] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition (AM) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (AM).
[0645] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, the composition (A) applied to keratin fibres during step a) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye, and does not comprise any oxidation dyes or chemical oxidizing agents as described above.
[0646] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least the steps (1) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (A2), and (2) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above.
[0647] Preferably, according to this second embodiment, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, comprises at least the following steps:
[0648] (1) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (A2) comprising:
[0649] (i) at least one direct dye as defined previously,
[0650] (ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined previously,
[0651] (iii) at least one cationic polymer as defined previously, and
[0652] (iv) at least one fatty substance CGA as defined previously,
[0653] said composition (A2) not comprising any oxidation dye or chemical oxidizing agent, and
[0654] (2) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (B) as described previously.The keratin fibres treatment process according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or rinsing before and / or after application and / or washing before and / or after application and / or drying.
[0655] The compositions of the process according to the invention can be applied to dry or damp keratin fibres, and also on all types of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed, fibres.
[0656] The application of the compositions of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibres may be carried out via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.
[0657] The treatment process according to the invention is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15°C and 30°C).
[0658] The process of the invention may notably comprise a step of washing the keratin fibres before applying the compositions described previously. It may also comprise a washing step after the application of the compositions described previously.
[0659] For the purposes of the present invention, a “step of washing the keratin fibres” is understood to mean a step of applying shampoo on the keratin fibres.
[0660] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the compositions described previously, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the compositions on the fibres, and rinsing.
[0661] The leave-on time of the compositions described previously on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 45 minutes.
[0662] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water before and / or after the steps of applying the compositions described previously.
[0663] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water is carried out between steps a) and b) of the process according to the invention.
[0664] More preferentially, the process of the invention carries out step a) as described above, then a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, then step b) as described above.
[0665] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres can be carried out after the steps of applying the compositions described previously.More preferentially, the process of the invention carries out step a) as described above, then a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, then a step of washing the keratin fibres, then step b) as described above.
[0666] Preferably, a drying step is carried out after the application of the compositions used in the process according to the invention, and more particularly after the optional steps of rinsing with water.
[0667] Device
[0668] A subject of the invention is also a multi -compartment dyeing device or “kit”. Preferably, the multi -compartment device according to the invention comprises:
[0669] - at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined previously; - at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined previously; and
[0670] - optionally at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined previously.
[0671] More preferentially, the multi-compartment device according to the invention comprises:
[0672] - at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined previously; - at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined previously; and
[0673] - at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined previously.
[0674] Composition (A) and the oxidizing composition (O) as described previously are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
[0675] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.Examples
[0676] The dyeing composition A and the oxidizing composition O, as described in Tables 1 and 2 below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentages of active material (g% AM).
[0677] [Table 1]
[0678]
[0679] [Table 21
[0680]
[0681] A composition (AM) was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, the dyeing composition (A) (Table 1) with the oxidizing composition (O) (Table 2), in a Composition (A) / Composition (O) weight ratio of 1 : 1.5.
[0682] In addition, composition B as described below in Table 3 was prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentages of active material (g% AM).
[0683] [Table 3]
[0684]
[0685] Firstly, the composition (AM) resulting from the mixing of composition (A) with composition (O), is applied to locks of hair containing 90% natural grey hair, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
[0686] After a leave-on time of 30 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed with water.Then, secondly, composition (B) is applied to the locks of hair pretreated with the composition (AM), in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
[0687] After a leave-on time of 5 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed with water and then dried in an oven (60°C).
[0688] The dyeing of the hair treated with the process according to the invention presents a good intensity, chromaticity and fastness, with also with a good color buildup and low selectivity.
[0689] The treatment process according to the invention leads to good comfort of the scalp during application. The compositions used in the treatment process according to the invention have a pleasant odour, and also a creamy and fondant texture during application allowing homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no running).
[0690] The hair treated with the process according to the invention shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps:a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:(i) at least one dye,(ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA,(iii) at least one cationic polymer,(iv) at least one fatty substance CGA, andb) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising:(i) at least one cationic surfactant TCB,(ii) at least one fatty monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,(iii) at least one polyol, in a total content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B), and(iv) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in a total content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
2. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dye(s) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and mixtures thereof; preferably from oxidation dyes.
3. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases and couplers; preferably from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, coupling agents based on naphthalene, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, meta-aminophenol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxyindole, 2, 4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxy ethyloxy )benzene, theaddition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
4. Process according to Claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) TCA in composition (A) are chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially composition (A) comprises at least two cationic surfactants TCA chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still composition (A) comprises, as cationic surfactants TCA, at least a first cationic surfactant of fatty amine type and at least a second cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
6. Process according to Claim 5, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) TCA of fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
7. Process according to Claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) TCA of quaternary ester type are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxy alkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X' represents an anion.
8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCA in composition (A ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, more preferentially still from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) CGA in composition (A) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from plant oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of fatty substance(s) CGA in composition (A) ranges from 0.5% to 55% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 45% by weight, more preferentially still from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, even better still from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) TCB in composition (B) are chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type; preferably from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine.
14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) TCB in composition (B) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.25% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty monoalcohol(s) (ii) in composition (B) are chosen from the Cs-Ci4 fatty monoalcohols of structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 14 carbon atoms; fatty monoalcohols comprising 15 or more carbon atoms of structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear hydrocarbon group comprising in total from 15 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of fatty monoalcohol(s) (ii) in composition (B) ranges from 0.2% to 14.8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.7% to 13.5% by weight, even more preferentially from 1.5% to 12% by weight, better still from 3% to 10.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
17. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) (iii) in composition (B) are chosen from linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 hydroxyl groups -OH and from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially from propylene glycol, propane-1, 3-diol, butylene glycol, butane-2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still from propylene glycol.
18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of polyol(s) (iii) ranges from 50% to 85% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 80% by weight, even more preferentially from 65% to 75% by weight, and better still from 70% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
19. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol(s) (iv) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms in composition (B) are chosen from linear saturated monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; more preferentially from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from ethanol.
20. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of monoalcohol(s) (iv) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 40% by weight, even more preferentially from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).
21. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of polyol(s) (iii) to the total content of monoalcohol(s) (iv) comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms in composition (B) is greater than or equal to 1, more preferentially ranges from 1 to 20, even more preferentially from 2 to 10, better still from 3 to 6.
22. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (B) is anhydrous.
23. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (A) does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.
24. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 22, characterized in that composition (A) comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent; preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is / are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof;better still hydrogen peroxide.
25. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step a) is carried out before step b).
26. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 23 and 25, comprising at least the following steps:(1) a step of preparing a composition (AM) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:- a composition (Al) comprising:(1) at least one oxidation dye, preferably as defined in Claim 1 or 3,(ii) at least one cationic surfactant TCA as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 5 to 7, (iii) at least one cationic polymer as defined in Claim 1 or 9,(iv) at least one fatty substance CGA as defined in Claim 1 or 11,and said composition (Al) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with - a different oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; then(2) a step of applying to the keratin fibres said composition (AM), and(3) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 13 to 22;preferably, step (2) is carried out before step (3).
27. Multi -compartment device comprising:- at least a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 and 23 to 24;- at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 13 to 22; and- optionally at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined in Claim 24.