Cosmetic composition for skin cell longevity

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for skin cell longevity The present invention relates to a composition comprising a combination of at least two cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents preventing epigenetic modifications, preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, preventing or reducing micro- inflammatory processes, and preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of such a composition for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, preventing epigenetic modifications, preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism, in skin cells. Finally, the invention relates to a nontherapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials comprising the topical application of such a composition.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Title: Cosmetic composition for skin cell longevity

[0003] Technical field

[0004] The present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising a combination of at least two cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents: - preventing epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and

[0005] - preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and - preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and

[0006] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0007] in skin cells.

[0008] The invention also relates to the use of such a composition in cosmetic uses and processes.

[0009] Prior art

[0010] Aging is characterized by a gradual decline in physiological functions, which originates at the cellular level. Longevity, defined as the ability of a cell to maintain its integrity and functions over an extended period of time, depends on the integrity of various cellular processes.

[0011] The cellular processes involved in longevity are constantly challenged by a multitude of stressors, leading to gradual deterioration and the appearance of cellular and tissue damage. The skin, the organ most exposed to environmental factors (UV rays, pollution, etc.), undergoes accelerated aging called extrinsic aging in addition to age-related intrinsic aging. These processes affect the cells of the epidermis, dermis and skin integuments, as well as the extracellular matrix.

[0012] The hallmarks of cellular aging are major biological characteristics identified as fundamental causes of aging and associated impairments. These hallmarks were originally described by Lopez-Otin et al. (The hallmarks of aging, Cell. 2013 Jun 6;153(6): 1194-217. doi: 10.1016 / j.cell.2013.05.039).

[0013] In particular, nine hallmarks of aging were identified and associated with molecular and cellular mechanisms that are potentially targets of aging and involved in skin impairment.The inventors observed that these hallmarks, or biological causes of aging, are characteristic of the age of individuals. Thus, depending on their age, to combat cellular aging, an individual should target the hallmarks characteristic of their biological age.

[0014] The inventors have thus identified several categories of individuals to whom specific hallmarks have been attributed.

[0015] An “interception” strategy applied to cellular longevity is particularly relevant for individuals from 25 to 55 years old. At this age, the first signs of aging begin to be seen, often exacerbated by external factors such as pollution, UV rays and oxidative stress. Interception consists in counteracting impairments in cellular mechanisms that are associated with the amplification of certain signs of aging (fine lines / wrinkles, pigmentation irregularities, deterioration in skin quality, etc.) and exacerbated by environmental stress, lifestyle, or the accumulation of cellular damage that may lead to impaired cellular function. The inventors thus identified a combination of four hallmarks that are particularly important to target in maintaining cellular longevity in individuals from 25 to 55 years old.

[0016] The four priority hallmarks to target in this category of individuals are thus: epigenetic changes, loss of proteostasis, chronic inflammation and mitochondrial dysfunction.

[0017] There is thus a need for a combination of active agents that is capable of simultaneously regulating these four hallmarks to prevent deregulation of cutaneous cellular mechanisms that become impaired with age.

[0018] This holistic approach optimizes cell longevity, ensures good skin homeostasis and ensures skin protection, quality and regeneration for all consumers, and in particular for consumers from 25 to 55 years old, notably consumers from 30 to 50 years old.

[0019] In this context, it is also important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0020] Disclosure of the invention

[0021] The aim of the present invention is to solve at least one abovementioned technical problem. Specifically, the inventors have now discovered that a composition comprising at least two active agents according to the invention makes it possible simultaneously to act on all thehallmarks of interest, in particular of interest for an individual over 25 years old, and notably between 25 and 55 years old. In particular, the inventors have discovered that a composition comprising a combination of at least two active agents according to the invention makes it possible to:

[0022] (i) prevent epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity,

[0023] (ii) prevent or reduce the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy,

[0024] (iii) prevent or reduce micro-inflammatory processes, and

[0025] (iv) prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism, in skin cells.

[0026] Summary of the invention

[0027] As mentioned above, the present invention thus relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising a combination of at least two, in particular at least three and more particularly at least four cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents:

[0028] - preventing epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and

[0029] - preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and - preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and

[0030] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0031] in skin cells.

[0032] According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic active agents is chosen from:

[0033] - active agents preventing epigenetic modifications in skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, chosen from the group consisting of an extract of Calendula officinalis flower; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE- or E / Z- geometrical isomeric forms thereof and the tautomers thereof, the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0034]

[0035] (I), in which:

[0036] A is — O- or -NH;

[0037] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups possibly being interrupted with one or more O;

[0038] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof,

[0039] - active agents preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, chosen from the group consisting of vitamin C and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid, and / or a salt thereof, vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; azelaic acid, a salt thereof with organic or mineral bases and / or a solvate thereof; palmitoyl tripeptide- 1; a combination of maltodextrin and a fermentation filtrate of Saccharomyces; the combination of retinol and dehydroxypinacolone retinoate; at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (II)

[0040]

[0041] r' in which R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 and notably Ci-C2alkyl radical, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a divalent group chosen from -C(O)-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group, in particular C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; Grifola frondosa extract; rhamnose; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; maltodextrin; Eperua falcata bark extract; Ceratonia siliqua seed extract; mannitol, acetyl tetrapeptide-9; ectoine; and combinations thereof,

[0042] - active agents preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, chosen from the group consisting of a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber Officinale root extract), an extract of Centella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acidand madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof,

[0043] - cosmetic active agents preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells, chosen from the group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins Bl, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+; Punica granatum extract; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof.

[0044] In particular, at least one of the cosmetic active agents is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0045] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,

[0046] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,

[0047] - a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber Officinale root extract) and

[0048] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.More particularly, at least one of the cosmetic active agents is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0049] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,

[0050] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,

[0051] - at least one ginsenoside, and

[0052] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises a ginger rhizome extract, especially Zingiber Officinale root extract.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least one ginseng extract.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least one ginsenoside. According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.In particular, the combination comprises:

[0057] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

[0058] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and

[0059] - a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract, preferably a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber officinale root extract) and

[0060] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0061] More particularly, the combination comprises:

[0062] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

[0063] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and

[0064] - at least one ginsenoside, and

[0065] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises a ginger rhizome extract, especially Zingiber Officinale root extract.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least one ginseng extract.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least one ginsenoside. According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least one aminosulfonic acid, notably chosen from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof, and is in particular taurine. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, notably the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, notably in an individual over 25 years old, in particular from 25 to 55 years old. Moreover, the invention relates to the cosmetic use, notably the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for:

[0069] - preventing epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and

[0070] - preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and - preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and- preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0071] in skin cells.

[0072] Finally, the invention relates to a nontherapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0073] Description of the figures

[0074] Figure 1 shows the variation in PEG2 content in normal human dermal fibroblast cultures (as a percentage relative to a threshold value) for different cell culture conditions, from left to right: in the absence of any additives (negative control) (Unstimulated control, in the presence of IL- la but no active agent (Control)), in the presence of 1 pM indomethacin, in the presence of 1 xIO'3mg / mL Zingiber officinale root extract, in the presence of 3 / I0-3mg / mL Zingiber officinale root extract, and in the presence of U IO-2mg / mL Zingiber officinale root extract (ginger rhizome extract). *** p < 0.001.

[0075] Detailed description

[0076] The term “cosmetic” means a composition that is compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin, mucous membranes and skin integuments. The composition according to the invention is nontherapeutic. The composition of the invention notably comprises a “cosmetically acceptable” medium, also known as a “physiologically acceptable” medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0077] The term “keratin materials” in particular means the skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and skin integuments.

[0078] The term “the skin” means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the chin), the neckline and the neck.

[0079] A composition according to the invention may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. one which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tautness or redness, that is liable to discourage theuser from applying this composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose a physiologically acceptable medium such that the advantageous properties of the cosmetic active agent(s) of the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected.

[0080] The term “proteostasis" (or protein homeostasis) means all the cellular mechanisms that ensure the production, folding, repair and elimination of defective or damaged proteins. With age, these mechanisms become less effective, resulting in an accumulation of misfolded or aggregated proteins in skin cells. These dysfunctions contribute to the loss of skin elasticity, an increase in wrinkles and fine lines and a decrease in the skin’s ability to regenerate. The term “loss of proteostasis" means the loss of the ability of cells to implement the abovementioned mechanisms.

[0081] The term “autophagy" means a biological process via which cells degrade and recycle their own components. It allows cells to remove damaged organelles, misfolded or aggregated proteins, and other cellular waste, while reusing the building blocks to produce energy or synthesize new molecules. It is a key cellular mechanism for maintaining proteostasis. With age, the level of autophagy decreases, which contributes to the accumulation of cellular waste and the decrease in the quality of the extracellular matrix. The term “loss of autophagy" means the loss of the ability of cells to implement the autophagy mechanism. The term “reducing" or “reduction" is understood in the context of the present invention to mean the reduction of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon, in particular relative to a “normal” situation, that is to say in the absence of application of the composition according to the invention.

[0082] In the context of the present invention, the terms “preventing" and “prevention" denote the reduction, to a lesser degree, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon. The term “cell longevity" is understood to mean the ability of cells to maintain their functions and viability over time, despite environmental or metabolic damage and stresses. This longevity depends on specific biological mechanisms that protect cells from aging, premature death or dysfunction. However, cellular aging is inevitable and is associated with progressive changes in cellular structure and functions.

[0083] In that which will follow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, notably in the expressions “between..." and “ranging from ... toThe term “alkyl” means a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon-based group of the linear or branched (Cx-Cy) type, comprising from x carbon atoms to y carbon atoms, for example, a Ci-C6alkyl implies a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyl group is a C1-C4 group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl, butyl, i-butyl ort-butyl.

[0084] The term “alkenyl” means a monovalent unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group of the linear or branched (Cx-Cy) type, comprising from x carbon atoms to y carbon atoms, comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated unsaturations, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds, for example, a C2-C22 alkenyl implies a linear or branched alkenyl group comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and comprising one or more unsaturations, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is immiscible in water at ordinary temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%); in addition, the fatty substances are miscible in particular in all proportions in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance in halogenated solvents such as chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene.

[0085] The term “organic or mineral acid salt” more particularly means salts chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HC1, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH, such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) succinic acid; vii) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S(O)OH, such as methoxysulfmic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; viii) aryl oxy sulfinic acids, such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; ix) phosphoric acid H3PO4; x) (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acid, such as acetic acid CH3C(O)OH, citric acid, tartaric acid; lactic acid; xi) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xii) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4; and also salts of “acidic” amino acids such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid salts.

[0086] The term “organic or mineral base salts” means salts of bases or alkaline agents, such as alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines, or else salts of “basic” amino acids such as lysine or arginine.Moreover, the expression “a / least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “owe or more” .

[0087] Composition

[0088] A composition, notably a cosmetic composition, according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a combination of at least two, in particular at least three and more particularly at least four cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents:

[0089] - preventing epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and

[0090] - preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and - preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and

[0091] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0092] in skin cells.

[0093] The term “at least two cosmetic active agents” means that the composition comprises from 2 to 10 cosmetic active agents, in particular from 2 to 6 cosmetic active agents. In particular, the combination may comprise 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 cosmetic active agents.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of two cosmetic active agents. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of three cosmetic active agents. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of four cosmetic active agents. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a combination of five cosmetic active agents.

[0095] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention:

[0096] - prevents epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and

[0097] - prevents or reduces the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and - prevents or reduces micro-inflammatory processes, and

[0098] - prevents or reduces mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulates mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0099] in skin cells.Genome instability, which seriously compromises the integrity of our genetic heritage, is characterized by an accumulation of DNA damage. Environmental exposures, notably from ultraviolet (UV) rays and pollution, generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage DNA, causing single-strand breaks, double-strand breaks, and impairments in nitrogenous bases. If these lesions are not properly repaired by cellular systems, they can lead to genetic mutations, promoting premature skin aging. The shortening of telomeres, repetitive noncoding DNA sequences located at the ends of chromosomes, also plays a crucial role in this process. Acting as a biological clock, telomeres shorten with each cell division, limiting the cell’s ability to regenerate.

[0100] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA in skin cells. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to directly or indirectly protect the stability of DNA in skin cells.

[0101] Epigenetic alterations constitute a key mechanism of skin aging. Epigenetics, literally meaning “beyond genetics”, refers to changes in gene expression that are not accompanied by changes in the DNA sequence itself. These changes, which are influenced by the environment and lifestyle, can be transmitted during cell division and play a crucial role in the onset of diseases and age-related impairments in tissue function. Among the epigenetic modifications most extensively studied are DNA methylation (the addition of a methyl group to DNA) and the modifications of histones (proteins around which DNA is wrapped). These epigenetic modifications may affect the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, such as those involved in collagen and elastin production.

[0102] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to prevent epigenetic modifications in skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to prevent epigenetic modifications in skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity.

[0103] Chronic inflammation is a process that sets in gradually over time, fueled by a multitude of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. These include oxidative stress, chronic exposure to UV rays, accumulation of DNA damage, and mitochondrial dysfunction. These repeated aggressionsaccumulate, and disrupt the balance of the skin, leading to excessive and prolonged activation of the skin’s immune system with aging. This has the consequence of activating pro-inflammatory signaling pathways, dependent on NF-KB (Nuclear Factor-kappa B), COX2 (cyclooxygenase-2), or JAK / STAT factors. These factors are capable of generating the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, chemokines (attracting immune cells) and matrix metalloproteinases (degrading the extracellular matrix). For example, activation of NF-KB leads to the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin- 1 (IL-1), interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-a). Activation of COX2 leads to the production of prostaglandins (PGE-2). The JAK / STAT factors are activated by cytokines such as interleukin- 13 (IL-13), interleukin-4 (IL-4), interleukin- 11 (IL-11) or interleukin-31 (IL-31). These inflammatory mediators amplify the local inflammatory response, attract other immune cells and contribute to the breakdown of the skin’s structural components. A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, in skin cells. Loss of proteostasis represents a major dysfunction in aging cells, affecting protein folding, stability and degradation.

[0104] The proteasome is a proteolytic complex that breaks down proteins for physiological regulation and cellular protection. Its activity decreases with age, leading to the accumulation of damaged or misfolded proteins, which disrupts vital cellular functions and worsens skin aging.

[0105] Autophagy is essential for tissue homeostasis and maintaining skin health. This mechanism allows cells to remove damaged or superfluous components. It is initiated by various stimuli such as oxidative stress and accumulation of misfolded proteins, activating signaling pathways such as mTOR and AMPK. Autophagy involves the formation of autophagosomes that fuse with late endosomes to form autolysosomes, where cellular components are degraded and recycled. With age, the expression of genes encoding key autophagy proteins decreases, affecting the efficiency of this process.

[0106] The loss of proteostasis is accompanied by the degradation and disorganization of the constituents of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, affecting the strength, elasticity and hydration of the skin. This disorganization is due to environmental factors, inflammatory processes and cellular senescence.Loss of proteostasis also includes disorganization of the epidermal protein matrix, affecting the structure and barrier function of the skin. This organization is linked to the maturation and differentiation of the corneocytes.

[0107] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce micro-inflammatory processes in skin cells. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce micro-inflammatory processes in skin cells.

[0108] Mitochondrial dysfunction involves gradual impairment of mitochondrial functions. Mitochondria are the real energy plants of the cell and control cellular metabolism. However, with age and under the effect of oxidative stress, mitochondria suffer damage, and the mechanisms for eliminating damaged mitochondria (mitophagy processes) as well as the mechanisms for regenerating new mitochondria (mitochondrial biogenesis) become impaired. Impairment of mitochondria will have the direct consequence of modifying cellular metabolism, increasing ROS production, and accelerating inflammatory processes. This vicious circle contributes to a state of chronic oxidative stress, which is harmful to cells, and accelerates skin aging.

[0109] A combination of cosmetic active agents according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulate mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells.

[0110] Cosmetic active agents

[0111] A composition, notably a cosmetic composition, according to the invention comprises a combination of at least two, in particular at least three and more particularly at least four cosmetic active agents.

[0112] In skin cells, this combination of active agents:

[0113] - directly or indirectly protects the stability of DNA, and

[0114] - prevents epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and

[0115] - prevents or reduces micro-inflammatory processes, and- prevents or reduces mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulates mitochondrial energy metabolism.

[0116] According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic active agents is chosen from:

[0117] - active agents preventing epigenetic modifications in skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, chosen from the group consisting of an extract of Calendula officinalis flower; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE- or E / Z- geometrical isomeric forms thereof and the tautomers thereof, the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0118]

[0119] (I), in which:

[0120] A is — O- or -NH;

[0121] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups possibly being interrupted with one or more O;

[0122] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof,

[0123] - active agents preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, chosen from the group consisting of vitamin C and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid, and / or a salt thereof, vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; azelaic acid, a salt thereof with organic or mineral bases and / or a solvate thereof; palmitoyl tripeptide- 1; a combination of maltodextrin and a fermentation filtrate of Saccharomyces; the combination of retinol and dehydroxypinacolone retinoate; at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (II)

[0124]

[0125] r' in which R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 and notably Ci-C2alkyl radical, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a divalent group chosen from -C(O)-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group, in particular C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; Grifola frondosa extract; rhamnose; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; maltodextrin; Eperua falcata bark extract; Ceratonia siliqua seed extract; mannitol, acetyl tetrapeptide-9; ectoine; and combinations thereof,

[0126] - active agents preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, chosen from the group consisting of a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber Officinale root extract), an extract of Centella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof,

[0127] - cosmetic active agents preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells, chosen from the group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins Bl, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+; Punica granatum extract; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises at least:

[0129] - an active agent preventing epigenetic modifications in skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, chosen from the group consisting of an extract of Calendula officinalis flower; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE- or E / Z- geometrical isomeric forms thereof and the tautomers thereof, the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0130]

[0131] (I), in which:

[0132] A is — O- or -NH;

[0133] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups possibly being interrupted with one or more O;

[0134] ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof, and

[0135] - an active agent preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, chosen from the group consisting of vitamin C and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid, and / or a salt thereof, vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; azelaic acid, a salt thereof with organic or mineral bases and / or a solvate thereof; palmitoyl tripeptide- 1; a combination of maltodextrin and a fermentation filtrate of Saccharomyces; the combination of retinol and dehydroxypinacolone retinoate; at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (II)

[0136]

[0137] r' in which R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 and notably Ci-C2alkyl radical, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a divalent group chosen from -C(O)-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group, in particular C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; Grifola frondosa extract; rhamnose; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; maltodextrin; Eperua falcata bark extract; Ceratonia siliqua seed extract; mannitol, acetyl tetrapeptide-9; ectoine; and combinations thereof,

[0138] - an active agent preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, chosen from the group consisting of a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber Officinale root extract), an extract of Centella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acidand madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof; an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof, and

[0139] - an active agent preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells, chosen from the group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins Bl, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+; Punica granatum extract; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof,

[0140] it being understood that the active agent preventing epigenetic modifications in skin cells, the active agent preventing or reducing loss of proteostasis, the active agent preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and the active agent preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells may be identical or different.

[0141] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0142] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,

[0143] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,

[0144] - a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract, and

[0145] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0147] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,

[0148] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,

[0149] - a ginseng extract, and

[0150] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0151] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,

[0152] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,

[0153] - a ginger rhizome extract, especially Zingiber Officinale root extract, and

[0154] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:

[0156] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,

[0157] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,

[0158] - at least one ginsenoside, and

[0159] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as cosmetic active agents, in a combination according to the invention:

[0161] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

[0162] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and

[0163] - a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract, and

[0164] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as cosmetic active agents, in a combination according to the invention:

[0166] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

[0167] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and

[0168] - a ginseng extract, and

[0169] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0170] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as cosmetic active agents, in a combination according to the invention:- capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

[0171] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and

[0172] - a ginger rhizome extract, especially Zingiber officinale root extract, and

[0173] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0174] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as cosmetic active agents, in a combination according to the invention:

[0175] - capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and

[0176] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and

[0177] - at least one ginsenoside, and

[0178] - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0179] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof. Capryloylsalicylic acid is a derivative (ester) of salicylic acid (2-hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic acid), known as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (LHA).

[0180] It has exfoliant and soothing properties, as well as documented improvement of the complexion, wrinkles and clogged pores. Furthermore, capryloylsalicylic acid is known to have many cosmetic functions and is notably known as an antiaging and antiacne active agent. In addition, capryloylsalicylic acid has been shown to boost the activation of the AMPK enzyme involved in cellular metabolism and to affect the longevity of simplex organisms (Shamalnasab M. et al. Aging cell. 2018 Dec;17(6):el2830).

[0181] It also has astringent properties that also allow better protection of the skin.

[0182] Salts of capryloylsalicylic acid according to the invention include, for example, sodium capryloyl salicylate, potassium capryloyl salicylate and ammonium capryloyl salicylate. According to a particular embodiment, capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof is present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3%, in particular from 0.15% to 2%, more particularly from 0.2% to 1%, better still from 0.2% to 0.8%, relative to the total weight of the composition.According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the cosmetic active agents of a combination according to the invention is vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof.

[0183] The term “vitamin B3” means any molecule having the general formula (II):

[0184]

[0185] in which R is -CONH2(i.e., niacinamide, isoniacinamide), -COOH (i.e. nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (i.e. nicotinyl alcohol) and the derivatives and salts thereof.

[0186] As examples of vitamin B3 derivatives, mention may be made of:

[0187] - esters of nicotinic acid, such as those with the following INCI names: Niacinamide Ascorbate, Niacinamide Glycolate, Niacinamide Hydroxybenzoate, Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate, Niacinamide Lactate, Niacinamide Malate, Niacinamide Mandalate, Niacinamide Salicylate, Niacinamide Thioctate provided by Bioderma Tech. Co. Ltd; - quaternary ammonium salts such as Methyl Niacinamide Chloride (INCI name) such as the commercial product MNA Chloride® from Pharmena;

[0188] - the reaction products of niacinamide with polypeptides such as those derived from yeasts: INCI name Niacinamide / Yeast Polypeptide such as the commercial product sold under the trade name Vitazyme B3® by the company Arch Personal Care Products, L.P. / Lonza Personal Care.

[0189] Niacinamide will more particularly be used, such as the commercial products sold under the name Niacinamide PC® (DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.), OriStarNA® (Orient Stars LLC), RonaCare Nicotinamide® (Merck KGaA / EMD Chemicals), RonaCare Nicotinamide (EMD Chemicals).

[0190] Vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20%, better still from 0.1% to 10%, and even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber officinale root extract), preferably comprises at least one ginsenoside. In particular, the ginseng extract is ginseng root extract.

[0191] Ginsenosides are active molecules derived from ginseng and / or ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber officinale root extract).

[0192] Ginseng is a perennial plant with deciduous leaves belonging to the family of Araliaceae. The genus of ginseng that is most particularly suitable for use in the invention is Panax ginseng. As representatives of this genus, mention may notably be made of the species Pai lax ginseng C.A. Meyer cultivated in Korea, Japan, China, Russia and Germany; Panax quinquefolius L. (American ginseng), Panax japonicus C.A. Meyer (Japanese ginseng), cultivated in Japan; Panax notoginseng (Burkill.) F.H. Chen (Sanchi ginseng) growing in China; Panax trifolius L. (dwarf ginseng), Panax major Ting; Panax omeiensis J. Wen; Panax pseudoginseng Wallich, Panax sinensis J. Wen; Panax stipuleanatus H.T. Tsai & K.M. Feng; Panax wangianus Sun; Panax zingiberensis C.Y. Wu & K. M. Feng (11) and Panax vietnamensis Ha and Grushv.

[0193] Panax ginseng is usually harvested after 4 to 6 years of cultivation and it is classified into three types according to its treatment: a) fresh ginseng (under 4 years old; consumable in the fresh state); b) white ginseng (4 to 6 years old; dried after peeling); and c) red ginseng (harvested at 6 years old, then steamed and dried).

[0194] According to another embodiment of the invention the ginsenosides can also be contained in Ginseng and may be referred to by the INCI name PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT. A suitable commercial product may be Extrapone Ginseng® sold by the company Symrise.

[0195] In particular, the ginseng extract may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.02% to 2%, more particularly ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises a ginger rhizome extract. In particular, a combination according to the invention comprises Zingiber Officinale root extract.

[0196] Ginger rhizome extract is also called ginger root extract. Herein, both expressions can be used interchangeably.

[0197] The ginger rhizome extract may be provided in crushed, powdered, or liquid form, and is preferably in liquid form.

[0198] Ginger (Zingiber officinale) is a plant belonging to the Zingiberaceae family and more specifically to the Zingiber genus.

[0199] The ginger rhizome can also comprise gingerols (or zingerols), shogaols and paradols. The ginger rhizhome extract (especially Zingiber officinale root extract) in accordance with the invention may, for example, be included in the commercial product Symvital ® Mada sold by the company Symrise.

[0200] The ginger rhizome extract may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.00001% to 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.00005% to 9% by weight of active material.

[0201] In a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract. More particularly, a combination according to the invention comprises at least one ginsenoside.

[0202] Ginsenosides are active molecules known for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and revitalizing effects on the skin. They help protect skin cells against oxidative stress and environmental aggressions while promoting cell renewal and improving skin texture and elasticity.

[0203] Ginsenosides belong mainly to two broad categories: protopanaxadiols (PPD) and protopanaxatriols (PPT).

[0204] The ginsenosides may be chosen from the group consisting of ginsenosides Rbl, Rgl, Rd, Re, Rf, Rg3, Rhl and Rh2.

[0205] A ginseng extract may comprise at least one ginsenoside chosen from the group consisting of ginsenosides Rbl, Rgl, Rd, Re, Rf, Rg3, Rhl and Rh2.

[0206] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of ginsenoside(s) ranging from 0.01% to 3%, in particular ranging from 0.02% to 2%, moreparticularly ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0208] An extract of Calendula officinalis flower in accordance with the invention is known by the INCI name Calendula Officinalis flower extract.

[0209] An example of an extract of Calendula officinalis flower that may be used according to the invention is the commercial reference Epigenomyl® sold by the company Silab.

[0210] Epigenomyl is obtained from calendula flowers and is rich in oligosaccharides.

[0211] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5%, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises at least one aminosulfonic acid, notably chosen from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0213] In particular, a combination according to the invention comprises taurine.

[0214] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine, ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular ranging from 0.05% to 5%, more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises:

[0216] capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; and

[0217] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; and

[0218] a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract; andan extract of Calendula officinalis flower; and

[0219] an aminosulfonic acid, in particular chosen from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0220] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises:

[0221] capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; and

[0222] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; and

[0223] a ginseng extract; and

[0224] an extract of Calendula officinalis flower; and

[0225] an aminosulfonic acid, in particular chosen from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0226] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises:

[0227] capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; and

[0228] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; and

[0229] a ginger rhizome extract, especially Zingiber Officinale Root Extract; and an extract of Calendula officinalis flower; and

[0230] an aminosulfonic acid, in particular chosen from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid,aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0231] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises:

[0232] capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; and

[0233] - vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; and

[0234] at least one ginsenoside; and

[0235] an extract of Calendula officinalis flower; and

[0236] an aminosulfonic acid, in particular chosen from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0237] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid; vitamin B3; a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract; and an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0238] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid, vitamin B3, a ginseng extract, and an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0239] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid, vitamin B3, a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber Officinale Root Extract), and an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

[0240] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid, vitamin B3, at least one ginsenoside, and an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid; vitamin B3; a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract; an extract of Calendula officinalis flower and taurine.

[0241] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid, vitamin B3, a ginseng extract, an extract of Calendula officinalis flower and taurine.

[0242] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid, vitamin B3, a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber Officinale Root Extract), an extract of Calendula officinalis flower and taurine.

[0243] According to a particular embodiment, a combination according to the invention comprises capryloylsalicylic acid, vitamin B3, at least one ginsenoside, an extract of Calendula officinalis flower and taurine.

[0244] Aqueous phase

[0245] A composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase.

[0246] The aqueous phase in particular comprises water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent and is preferably single-phase.

[0247] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention has a water content of between 10% and 98% by weight, preferably between 25% and 90% by weight, and more preferentially between 35% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] According to the present invention, the term “water-soluble organic solvent” is understood to denote a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0249] The water-soluble solvents that may be used in a composition of the invention may be volatile.

[0250] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and also alkylene carbonates. According to an embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32polyol.Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 30% by total weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition; more preferentially, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, even better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl (OH) groups.

[0251] A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of alkyl type with a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain. Preferably, a polyol that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of the linear alkyl type bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl -OH groups, more preferentially 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups, on the alkyl chain.

[0252] The polyol(s) advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is (are) that (or those) notably containing from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0253] The polyol(s) that may be used according to the present invention is (are) chosen from linear polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may notably be made of:

[0254] - diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and

[0255] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0256] and mixtures thereof.

[0257] According to a very preferred embodiment, the polyol is chosen from triols such as glycerol. The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as stabilizers, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] Fatty phase

[0259] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.For the purposes of the invention, the term “fatty phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances, notably liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure, used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0260] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise oils, waxes, pasty compounds, and / or silicone compounds, and preferably at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil.

[0262] Oils

[0263] The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0264] A fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0265] The oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.

[0266] The fatty phase may comprise at least one volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oil and / or one volatile and / or nonvolatile fluoro oil.

[0267] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0268] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-0 group.

[0269] The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0270] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0271] Volatile oils

[0272] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature andatmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a nonzero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (IO-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0273] The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.

[0274] Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may notably be made of branched C8-C16alkanes, for instance C8-C16isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-Ci6esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0275] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (Cl 2) and n-tetradecane (Cl 4) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecanetridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cll) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

[0276] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0277] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0278] Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

[0279] Nonvolatile oils

[0280] The term “nonvolatile” refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is nonzero and is less than 10'3mmHg (0.13 Pa).The nonvolatile oils may notably be chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and / or silicone oils.

[0281] Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may notably be mentioned include:

[0282] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof,

[0283] nonvolatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology. The term “nonvolatile alkane” means a hydrocarbon-based cosmetic oil which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of March 11, 1992: “Any organic compound having at 293.15 K a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more”. In particular, the nonvolatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products sold under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from SEPPIC,

[0284] hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, com oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; or else caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

[0285] synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RICOOR2, in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms,with the proviso that Ri + R2is greater than or equal to 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and of Ci-C6alcohols having the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example the product sold under the name Citrofol Al Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale and linear dialkyl tartrates containing between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates,

[0286] fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto,

[0287] polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxy stearate / tetraisostearate,

[0288] fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

[0289] C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

[0290] carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis;

[0291] non-phenyl silicone oils, for instance caprylyl methicone, and

[0292] phenyl silicone oils, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;

[0293] and also mixtures of these various oils.

[0294] Other fatty substances

[0295] A fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in an oil.

[0296] The other fatty substances that may be present in the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention are, for example:

[0297] fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0298] waxes, other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

[0299] silicone resins such as trifluorornethyl(Ci-C4)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone;

[0300] silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil or B Y29 by the company Dow Corning or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries;

[0301] a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);

[0302] a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of a glycerol oligomer, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;

[0303] and mixtures thereof.

[0304] As fatty substances, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax. Such waxes may be chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0305] As fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one butter, more particularly a plant butter.

[0306] The plant butter(s) that are suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter,kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urukum butter, and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.

[0307] These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0308] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil, preferably at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, nonvolatile alkanes, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and also mixtures of these various oils, even better still chosen from synthesis esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and a mixture thereof.

[0309] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a polar oil.

[0310] In particular, such nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight and preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from squalane, mixtures of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and of Ci-C6alcohols having the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).

[0311] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

[0312] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and preferably at least one nonvolatile ester oil.Hydrophilic gelling agent / thickener

[0313] A composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one gelling agent (or thickener) that is hydrophilic, i.e. that is water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0314] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, which are in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Aery 1 ami de / S odium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum, alginates, modified celluloses; and mixtures thereof. The amount of gelling agents depends on the desired objective.

[0315] More preferentially, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers such as scleroglucan gum.

[0316] According to one embodiment, the amount of hydrophilic gelling agents ranges for example from 0.01% to 10% and for example from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0317] Additional active agent(s)

[0318] A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional active agent(s). These additional active agents are different from the cosmetic active agents of the combination of cosmetic active agents of a composition according to the invention described previously.

[0319] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select one or more additional active agent(s) such that the advantageous properties of the cosmetic active agents of the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected.Examples of additional active agents that may be mentioned include moisturizers; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, different antiaging agents, mattifying agents; cicatrizing agents; preserving agents such as antibacterial agents; UV-screening agents which are notably lipophilic, and mixtures thereof.

[0320] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one additional active agent, preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one additional active agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0321] A composition according to the invention may contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free-radical scavengers; essential oils; fragrances; film-forming agents; dyes; and mixtures thereof. The total amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired aim and may range, for example, from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0322] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to a composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0323] The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired aim and may range, for example, from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0324] A composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field, in particular in the skincare cosmetics field.

[0325] It may notably be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, which may be gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type, which may be a two-phase dispersion, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple emulsion, a gel, notably an aqueous gel, or even a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, notably using spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type. In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel,notably an aqueous gel. It may also be an anhydrous composition. The term “anhydrous composition” means a composition containing less than 10% by weight of water, in particular less than 5% by weight of water, more particularly less than 2% by weight of water or even less than 0.5% of water, and notably free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. The composition may be of more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0326] A composition according to the invention is in particular suitable for topical administration. Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0327] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, notably obtained by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft consistency, or alternatively of multiple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual known methods.

[0328] More particularly, a composition according to the invention may be intended for topical application and may in particular be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion. In particular, such an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed off after application. A composition according to the invention is more particularly intended to be applied to skin. In particular, the skin is the skin of the face, scalp, neckline, neck, arms or forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks and chin), neckline and neck.

[0329] The composition according to the invention may alternatively be in the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of a cream in a jar or a fluid in a tube or a pump bottle or a dropper bottle.

[0330] A composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetics field.

[0331] The ingredients can be mixed before being formed into shape, in the order and under conditions readily determined by a person skilled in the art.

[0332] According to a particular mode of the invention, other agents intended to enhance the appearance and / or texture of the skin may also be added to the composition according to the invention.Uses and processes

[0333] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, notably the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, notably in an individual less than 40 years old, in particular 20 to 40 years old. More particularly, the individual is 25 to 35 years old.

[0334] According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, notably the topical use, of a composition according to the invention, for:

[0335] - preventing epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and

[0336] - preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and - preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and

[0337] - preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,

[0338] in skin cells.

[0339] Finally, the invention relates to a nontherapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0340] The composition used in the uses and processes according to the invention may be as described elsewhere in the present text.

[0341] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are nontherapeutic. The cosmetic uses and processes of the invention are more particularly performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0342] Topical administration consists in externally applying cosmetic compositions to the skin according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0343] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be performed by topical, for example daily, application of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated, for example, in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion or cleansing milk, in particular in gel form.

[0344] The application may be repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more, and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.

[0345] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic use according to the invention may comprise a single application.

[0346] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof. The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. The amounts are indicated as weight percentages of starting materials relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise mentioned.

[0347] In the examples, unless otherwise specified, the temperature is room temperature (25°C) and is expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure.

[0348] Examples

[0349] Example 1: Effects of capryloylsalicylic acid and vitamin B3 administration on metabolism and the mitochondrial network

[0350] Protocol

[0351] Human keratinocytes of “normal” skin originating from a volunteer were inoculated in Petri culture dishes 60 mm in diameter.

[0352] Some of the cells were placed under oxidative stress conditions, namely in a culture medium to which 250 pM of H2O2were applied.

[0353] The following culture conditions were applied to different groups of cells:

[0354] - “control”;

[0355] - “control + H2O2”;

[0356] - “Vitamin B3 (1 mM) + H2O2”; and

[0357] - “Vitamin B3 (1 mM) + LHA (capryloylsalicylic acid) (3 pM and 15 pM) + H2O2”.

[0358] The cells were observed by multiphoton FLIM microscopic evaluation, at controlled temperature. A first image was obtained at TO, i.e. 24 hours after the first application of the products, namely vitamin B3 and LHA.

[0359] H2O2was applied to the cultures concerned to create oxidative stress.

[0360] A new image was obtained at T2h, i.e. 2 h after the application of H2O2.The products are again applied to the cultures at T48h, i.e. 48 h after the application of H2O2. A new image was obtained.

[0361] The inventors were thus able to observe under microscope the effects of vitamin B3 and LHA on keratinocyte metabolism and the mitochondrial network under normal conditions or oxidative stress conditions.

[0362] Specifically, treatment with H2O2generates oxidative stress that impacts the metabolism of the mitochondria, visible in red under a microscope. Treatment with the LHA + vitamin B3 pair made it possible to preserve this metabolism and reduce the oxidative stress induced by the H2O2treatment by reducing the red coloration visible under the microscope.

[0363] The results showed that combining vitamin B3 with LHA resulted in:

[0364] - protecting the mitochondrial network and keratinocyte metabolism: It was seen from the microscopic observation that treatment with the combination of vitamin B3 with LHA did indeed protect the reorganization (contraction around the nucleus) induced by oxidative stress; and

[0365] - modulating keratinocyte metabolism and directing it toward glycolysis (production of NADH and NADPH).

[0366] Example 2: Impact of a ginger rhizome extract (Zingiber Officinale Root Extract) on the inhibition of pro-inflammatory PGE2 factor production

[0367] The inventors cultured human dermal fibroblasts from “normal” skin.

[0368] The cells were cultured in the presence of IL- la or an extract of Zingiber officinale root extract (Sym Vital® from Symrise) in increasing contents.

[0369] The results revealed that Zingiber officinale root extract allows the release of prostaglandin E2 (PEG) in cells to be inhibited in a dose-dependent manner, thus demonstrating an antiinflammatory effect of these active agents (see Figure 1).

[0370] Example 3 : Composition example

[0371] A composition example according to the invention was prepared comprising the ingredients and contents indicated in the table below. The contents are indicated as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.[Table 1]

[0372]

Claims

1. Claims1. A composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising a combination of at least two, in particular at least three and more particularly at least four cosmetic active agents, said combination of active agents:- preventing epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and- preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and- preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and- preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,in skin cells.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein at least one of the cosmetic active agents is chosen from:- active agents preventing epigenetic modifications in skin cells, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, chosen from the group consisting of an extract of Calendula officinalis flower; merocyanines of formula (I), and also the EZE- or E / Z- geometrical isomeric forms thereof and the tautomers thereof, the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:(I), in which:A is — O- or -NH;R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups possibly being interrupted with one or more O;ascorbic acid, in particular vitamin C, and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or amixture thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; and combinations thereof,- active agents preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, chosen from the group consisting of vitamin C and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid, and / or a salt thereof, vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; azelaic acid, a salt thereof with organic or mineral bases and / or a solvate thereof; palmitoyl tripeptide- 1; a combination of maltodextrin and a fermentation filtrate of Saccharomyces; the combination of retinol and dehydroxypinacolone retinoate; at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (II):in which R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 and notably Ci-C2alkyl radical, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a divalent group chosen from -C(O)-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)-, and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group, in particular C-P-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; Grifola frondosa extract; rhamnose; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; maltodextrin; Eperua falcata bark extract; Ceratonia siliqua seed extract; mannitol, acetyl tetrapeptide-9; ectoine; and combinations thereof,- active agents preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, chosen from the group consisting of a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract (especially Zingiber Officinale root extract), an extract of Centella asiatica titrated with asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid; vitamin B3 and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof; 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; resveratrol and derivatives thereof and also the geometrical isomeric forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates or a mixture thereof an extract of Inula helenium: and combinations thereof,- cosmetic active agents preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism in skin cells, chosen from the group consisting of resveratrol and derivatives thereof; capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof; vitamins Bl, B3, B6 and B9 and derivatives thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof or mixtures thereof; ionized magnesium Mg2+; Punica granatum extract; an aminosulfonic acid, in particular taurine; and combinations thereof.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the cosmetic active agents is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:- capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,- vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,- a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract, preferably a ginger rhizome extract, especially Zingiber Officinale Root Extract and- an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims , wherein at least one of the cosmetic active agents is chosen, independently, from the group consisting of:- capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof,- vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof,- at least one ginsenoside, and5. - an extract of Calendula officinalis flower. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises at least capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises a ginseng extract.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims , wherein the combination comprises a ginger rhizome extract, preferably Zingiber Officinale Root Extract.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises at least one ginsenoside.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

11. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises:- capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and- vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and- a ginseng extract and / or a ginger rhizome extract, preferably a ginger rhizome extract, especially Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, and- an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

12. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises:- capryloylsalicylic acid and / or a salt thereof, and- vitamin B3, and / or a derivative thereof and / or a salt thereof, and- at least one ginsenoside, and- an extract of Calendula officinalis flower.

13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combination comprises at least one aminosulfonic acid, notably chosen from the group consisting of aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof, and is in particular taurine.

14. The cosmetic use, notably the topical use, of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, for increasing the longevity of skin cells and skin tissues, notably in an individual over 25 years old, in particular from 25 to 55 years old.

15. The cosmetic use, notably the topical use, of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, for:- preventing epigenetic changes, in particular those affecting the expression of genes involved in maintaining skin integrity, and- preventing or reducing the loss of proteostasis, in particular the loss of autophagy, and- preventing or reducing micro-inflammatory processes, and- preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial energy metabolism,in skin cells.

16. A nontherapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13.

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