Solid aroma-enhancing cosmetic composition comprising at least one cavity

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for perfuming a keratin substance, in particular the skin, said composition comprising at least one perfuming agent, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one cavity, the present invention relates to a solid composition such that the composition has a minimum porosity of 20% by volume relative to the total volume of the solid composition, and to an associated method of manufacture.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of perfumery.The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for perfumery of keratin materials, more particularly the skin.

[0002] Solid cosmetic compositions in the form of sticks or extracts for perfuming keratinous materials are already known.

[0003] Perfume extracts are known. However, they are generally not in a form suitable for single-dose use.

[0004] Moreover, in the case of sticks, their use requires repeated contact of the solid composition with the treated keratinous material, which is obviously unhygienic. Moreover, the sticks can be consumed by degradation and / or their breakage and / or disintegration before they are completely consumed, thus causing waste.

[0005] The present invention aims to overcome the above disadvantages and proposes a solid fragrance-enhancing cosmetic composition, more particularly a composition in a single-dose form, which ensures that the user can grasp it well, the application is direct and comfortable, and the packaging is economical and affordable.

[0006] Composition

[0007] The present invention therefore relates to a solid perfumed cosmetic composition for keratinous materials, more particularly for the skin, comprising at least one fragrance, characterised in that the composition comprises at least one cavity such that the porosity of the composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by volume, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 50% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 60% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 70% by volume, most particularly greater than or equal to 80% by volume, relative to the total volume of the solid composition.

[0008] Thus, the composition according to the invention may maintain a similar size and / or volume to current solid flavouring compositions, but differ in the presence of at least one cavity, such that the porosity of the composition is greater than or equal to 20% by volume relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0009] "Solid" as defined in the present invention means a composition that does not easily collapse under its own weight at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, it is intended to mean any composition that has a compressive strength greater than or equal to 20 g, preferably greater than or equal to 50 g, and most preferably greater than or equal to 100 g, at ambient temperature (20° C.-25° C.), after a cylindrical rotating probe with a diameter of 0.8 cm penetrates at a speed of 0.5 mm / s into a matrix of the composition with a thickness of 1 mm and withdraws said probe from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 0.5 mm / s; the compressive strength is measured using an analyzer such as the "LFRA Texture Analyzer" sold by STEVENS / MECHTRIC.

[0010] The composition according to the invention is not in the form of a paste. The composition according to the invention is not a pulverulent composition and is therefore not in the form of a powder. Finally, the composition according to the invention is not a porous solid resulting from the agglomeration of powders. On the other hand, the composition according to the invention may be an expanded composition and may therefore be in the form of a foam. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not an expanded composition and is therefore not in the form of a foam.

[0011] Preferably, the solid composition according to the present invention is not coated with a water-soluble coating.

[0012] "Porosity" as defined herein refers to all voids in a solid substance that can be filled with a fluid, in particular water, when the solid composition is in contact with an aqueous solution, for example water, such as tap water.

[0013] The "cavity" defined in the present invention refers to an empty space inside a solid that is directly connected to an external medium, such as Figures 1 to 3 and Figure 6 The cavity shown. Therefore, the cavity can be indiscriminately referred to as an "orifice", "hole" or "hole". Advantageously, the cavity is through-going, that is, the cavity represents an empty space inside the solid and directly connected to the external medium on both sides of the solid.

[0014] Thus, the volume of the cavity in the solid composition according to the invention accounts for at least 20%, more particularly at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, more particularly at least 50%, even at least 60%, more particularly at least 70%, most particularly at least 80% of the total volume of the solid composition.

[0015] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention has a density between 0.2 and 0.8, preferably between 0.3 and 0.7 and more particularly between 0.4 and 0.6.

[0016] The total volume of the solid composition according to the present invention can be 0.125 cm 3 and 100cm 3 Between, preferably between 0.250cm3 and 75cm 3 between, more particularly between 0.5 cm 3 and 50cm 3 between, preferably within 1cm 3 and 25cm 3 between, most especially between 2.5 cm 3 and 15cm 3 between.

[0017] The weight of the solid composition according to the invention may be between 0.025 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.25 g and 150 g, more particularly between 0.5 g and 100 g, better still between 1 g and 75 g, most particularly between 2.5 g and 50 g, even between 5 g and 25 g ("g" corresponds to the unit "gram").

[0018] Advantageously, the weight of the solid composition according to the invention may be between 0.25 g and 200 g, preferably between 0.50 g and 150 g, more particularly between 1 g and 100 g, better still between 2.5 g and 75 g, most particularly between 5 g and 50 g ("g" corresponds to the unit "gram").

[0019] According to a first preferred embodiment, the ratio between the volume of the cavity of the solid composition according to the invention and the total volume of the composition is between 0.05 and 0.9, preferably between 0.1 and 0.8, more particularly between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, better still between 0.2 and 0.7, even between 0.2 and 0.6.

[0020] "Total volume" refers to the volume resulting from the sum of the volume of the solid and the volume of the cavity.

[0021] In the framework of the present invention, the cavity can be considered as macroporosity, i.e. the minimum width or even diameter of the pores is greater than or equal to 0.5 mm, preferably greater than or equal to 0.75 mm, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 mm, even between 0.5 mm and 2 cm, most particularly between 1 mm and 2 cm, preferably between 2 mm and 1 cm, more particularly between 3 mm and 75 mm, better between 4 mm and 50 mm, most particularly between 5 mm and 25 mm. More particularly, the minimum width or even diameter of the pores is between 0.5 mm and 5 mm, preferably between 1 mm and 3 mm.

[0022] Therefore, the applicant pointed out that, at equal porosity, a stable solid composition is produced:

[0023] - easily in the presence of small cavities, for example, as described in US 8349341, cavities present in a solid matrix, the pores being a result of the introduction of gases during the manufacturing process, but

[0024] - This is much more difficult in the presence of macropores as considered in the present invention.

[0025] The presence of cavities in the contents and / or volume and / or size considered above allows obtaining solid compositions that require less raw materials while maintaining satisfactory gripping properties. Therefore, the solid composition according to the present invention is easy to place in a single dose form without loss or with less loss. This weight reduction also has the advantage of allowing less pollution and cheaper transportation. Therefore, the solid composition according to the present invention is ecologically and economically advantageous.

[0026] Furthermore, the inventors have observed that when the solid composition according to the invention is placed in the presence of an aqueous phase, unexpected effects occur in terms of texture and transformation effects. In fact, the inventors have observed that the solid composition according to the invention in contact with an aqueous phase exhibits faster transformation kinetics between the original solid state and the liquid state, such as, for example, a gel or cream, than a solid composition of the same size and volume but without any cavity. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the presence of a cavity in the solid composition facilitates the transition to a viscous liquid composition (for example, when the solid composition is mixed with the hands), or leads to an increase in the contact surface area with the aqueous phase (more particularly water), thereby allowing the solid composition to be better hydrated.

[0027] Therefore, the present invention can even adjust the speed of expansion and / or melting of the solid composition by adjusting the surface area formed under constant volume, by adjusting the percentage of porosity, and more specifically, by adjusting the shape and / or number and / or size of the cavities, and even the number and / or wall thickness of the cavities.

[0028] Advantageously, the size and / or volume of the cavity can be adjusted to store and / or react with the desired amount of water, thereby obtaining a final liquid composition with satisfactory / desirable properties, even optimized and / or uniform (i.e. between different single doses), for example in terms of viscosity, hydration, ease of spreading and / or conversion effect.

[0029] Thus, the composition according to the invention even makes it possible to obtain evanescent compositions, ie compositions which, upon contact with a sufficient amount of water, are readily transformed into liquid compositions, more particularly compositions in the form of gels or creams.

[0030] Finally, the inventors have observed that the porous structure of the solid composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a more uniform deposition on keratinous substances even without the aid of an application member.

[0031] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a single-dose composition. This embodiment is particularly advantageous from a hygiene point of view, since it prevents repeated contact between the solid composition and the keratinous material. This embodiment also makes it easy for the user to adjust the fragrance according to his / her mental state (mood), his / her clothing style and / or the time of day.

[0032] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a packaging comprising a plurality of solid compositions according to the present invention, which are present in single doses with different fragrances, more specifically, different olfactory notes and / or different olfactory intensities. Therefore, the present invention relates to a packaging comprising a plurality of solid compositions according to the present invention, preferably in single dose form, said compositions comprising different fragrances and / or different amounts of fragrances. Therefore, the advantage of this packaging is that the fragrance for the user can be easily customized according to the user's mental state (mood), clothing style and / or time of day.

[0033] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a topical composition.The composition according to the invention is not an oral composition.

[0034] The solid composition according to the invention may have any shape, for example a sphere, an ellipsoid, a tetrahedron or a polygon, more particularly a parallelogram, preferably a rectangular parallelogram.

[0035] Preferably, in particular in order to provide good grip, the solid composition according to the invention has:

[0036] - a width or even a diameter of between 1 cm and 10 cm, preferably between 2 cm and 8 cm, more particularly between 3 cm and 6 cm, better still between 4 cm and 5 cm; and / or

[0037] - Height (or thickness): between 0.5 cm and 5 cm, preferably between 1 cm and 4 cm, more particularly between 2 cm and 3 cm.

[0038] The cavities of the solid composition according to the invention may have any shape, for example circular, rectangular, oval, triangular, polygonal, more particularly hexagonal, honeycomb, or in a paving shape (or cutout shape), for example a Voronoi diagram ( diagram), preferably in a honeycomb shape, such as Figure 3 and Figure 6 shown.

[0039] like Figure 2 As shown, the cavity of the solid composition according to the present invention may also represent the letters or logo of a brand or company.

[0040] The solid composition according to the invention comprises one or more cavities, preferably a plurality of identical or different cavities.

[0041] According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cavity, more particularly a through cavity.

[0042] According to a second preferred variant, the composition according to the invention comprises a plurality of cavities, more particularly through-going cavities, such as Figure 3 and Figure 6 shown.

[0043] These cavities are advantageously through-going cavities along the axis xx′.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two chambers connected together. This embodiment is advantageous because it enhances the capillary phenomenon when in contact with water, thus improving the above-mentioned technical effects.

[0045] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention comprises a plurality of cavities in a honeycomb structure, such as Figure 3 The honeycomb shape is particularly advantageous because it allows the manufacture of solid compositions having a very advantageous "cavity volume / total composition volume" ratio, more particularly a ratio greater than or equal to 0.5, or even greater than or equal to 0.75, without affecting the grip of the composition and the robustness and / or storage of mechanical stresses that may be applied thereto. In other words, the honeycomb structure is an excellent compromise between cavity volume and mechanical strength.

[0046] Advantageously, the cavity of the solid composition according to the invention comprises a wall having a thickness between 10 μm and 1500 μm, preferably between 20 μm and 1000 μm, more particularly between 30 μm and 750 μm, most particularly between 50 μm and 500 μm, even between 100 μm and 400 μm. More specifically, the cavity of the solid composition according to the invention comprises a wall having a thickness between 250 μm and 500 μm.

[0047] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention comprises a plurality of cavities having a honeycomb structure comprising walls having a thickness between 10 μm and 600 μm, preferably between 20 μm and 500 μm, more particularly between 30 μm and 400 μm, most particularly between 50 μm and 300 μm, or even between 100 μm and 200 μm.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the solid composition according to the invention, in particular when it adopts a honeycomb structure as described above, can comprise a plurality of parts, more particularly polygonal, each part defining a breakable perimeter allowing at least one part to be separated from the rest of the solid composition. Thus, according to this embodiment, each part of the solid composition corresponds to a single dose.

[0049] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional pattern different from the cavities, said pattern being able to be produced, for example, by embossing.

[0050] According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. "Anhydrous" as defined herein refers to a composition which, before any contact with water, contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] According to a second variant, the composition according to the invention comprises a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. Thus, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil phase (or fatty phase) which additionally comprises at least one dispersed aqueous phase, for example in encapsulated form, for example in the form of matrix spheres (or beads or globules) or as core / shell (or capsules), for example in the form of capsules as described in WO2010 / 063937.

[0052] Therefore, the solid composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

[0053] According to one embodiment, the percentage by weight of water in the aqueous phase may be between 0.5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 2.5% and 30% by weight, better still between 5% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The solid nature of the composition according to the invention may be based on a phase consisting predominantly (or even entirely) of a fatty phase (hereinafter also called “solid fatty phase”) comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0055] Preferably, the solid nature of the composition according to the invention is based on the presence of a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0056] Fat phase

[0057] The melting point of the dispersed fatty phase of the composition according to the invention is between 50 and 100°C, preferably between 60 and 90°C.

[0058] The melting point of the fat phase can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the one sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments. The sample preparation and measurement protocol is as follows: 5 mg of the sample to be measured are previously heated to 80°C, sampled with a scraper that is also heated under magnetic stirring and then placed in a sealed aluminum capsule or crucible. To ensure the reproducibility of the results, the test is carried out twice. The measurement is carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The furnace is purged with nitrogen. Cooling is provided by an RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following treatment: the sample is first heated to 20°C, then subjected to a first temperature increase from 20°C to 130°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min, then cooled from 130°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -80°C to 130°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min. During the second heating process, the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. The melting end temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.

[0059] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0060] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0061] The lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be chosen from: organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; fats that are solid at ambient temperature and pressure; and mixtures thereof.

[0062] The fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature and pressure is preferably chosen from at least one wax, at least one pasty fatty substance, at least one butter and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Advantageously, the lipophilic gelling agent is a thermosensitive gelling agent, i.e. a gelling agent that reacts to heat, in particular a gelling agent that is solid at ambient temperature and liquid at a temperature greater than 50° C., preferably greater than 60° C., better still greater than 70° C. Preferably, the thermosensitive lipophilic gelling agent according to the invention has a melting point between 50° C. and 130° C., preferably between 60° C. and 120° C.

[0064] Lipophilic gelling agents include, for example, those described in WO2021 / 234135.

[0065] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen in particular from castor oil / IPDI copolymers (and) caprylic / capric triglycerides sold under the name Estogel M by PolymerExpert, in particular hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymers sold under the names Estogel-Green (or Estogel G) and Estogel Green 40, respectively, by PolymerExpert, and mixtures thereof, in particular OILKEMIA 500 by the company Lubrizol. TM Caprylic / capric triglycerides (and) polyurethane-79 sold under the name 5S Polymer, particularly by Elementis Specialties under the name Trihydroxystearate sold under the name , and mixtures thereof, more preferably castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0066] More specifically, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent, more particularly from 30% to 70% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent, better still from 40% to 60% by weight of lipophilic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Oil

[0068] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil. "Oil" means a fat that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0069] As oils according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:

[0070] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, as described below;

[0071] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

[0072] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2, wherein R1 represents a C8 to C 29The residue of a fatty acid, R2 represents a C3 to C30 branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain, such as purcellinoil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxy esters of fatty alcohols, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoate, caprylate, caprate; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetrabehenate (DUB-PTB) or pentaerythritol tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

[0073] - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam oil;

[0074] - silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with linear or cyclic siloxane chains, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexylsiloxane and cyclopentylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethylsiloxanes) containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups in the middle or at the ends of the siloxane chain, these groups containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl siloxanes, such as phenyl trimethylsiloxane, phenyl dimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenyl siloxane;

[0075] - fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;

[0076] - partially hydrocarbon- and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils, as described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0077] - and mixtures thereof.

[0078] As the oil, for example, the oil described in WO2021 / 234135 can be mentioned.

[0079] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one vegetable oil, such as coconut shell oil, coconut oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, castor oil, babassu oil and mixtures thereof.

[0080] More specifically, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 10% to 90% by weight of oil, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight of oil, more particularly from 30% to 70% by weight of oil and better still from 40% to 60% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably a thermosensitive lipophilic gelling agent, at least one oil and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Fragrance

[0083] The solid composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase and / or the dispersed aqueous phase when present, comprises at least one fragrance.

[0084] Among the fragrances, mention may be made in particular of any type of perfume or fragrance (a term used herein without distinction). Perfumes or fragrances are well known to those skilled in the art and include, for example, those mentioned in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and "Flavor and Fragrance Materials" (Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III. USA, 1991).

[0085] The fragrances used in the context of the present invention may include natural products such as extracts, essential oils, absolutes, balsams, resins, extracts, etc., as well as basic synthetic substances such as hydrocarbons, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, acetals, ketals, nitriles, etc., including saturated and unsaturated compounds, aliphatic, alicyclic and heterocyclic compounds.

[0086] As fragrances, mention may in particular be made of the fragrances described in WO 2015 / 148892.

[0087] According to one embodiment, the fragrance comprises less than 25% by weight of linear or branched alcohols that are saturated or that may contain at least one degree of unsaturation, relative to the total weight of the fragrance. More specifically, according to one embodiment, the fragrance comprises less than 25% by weight of terpene alcohols, relative to the total weight of the fragrance.

[0088] According to another embodiment, the fragrance comprises less than 10% by weight, even less than 5% by weight, of aldehydes relative to the total weight of the fragrance.

[0089] According to one embodiment, the fragrance comprises less than 10% by weight, even less than 7.5% by weight, of compounds having a ClogP value less than 2.1, relative to the total weight of the fragrance.

[0090] According to one embodiment, the fragrance comprises at least 3% by weight, even at least 4% by weight, of linear and / or branched alcohols, less than 25% by weight, even less than 20% by weight, even less than 15% by weight of linear and / or branched alcohols relative to the total weight of the fragrance.

[0091] According to one embodiment, the fragrance comprises 4% by weight of linear and / or branched alcohols relative to the total weight of the fragrance.

[0092] According to one embodiment, the fragrance comprises 13% by weight of linear and / or branched alcohols relative to the total weight of the fragrance.

[0093] More specifically, the composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 60% by weight of fragrance, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight of fragrance, more particularly from 10% to 40% by weight of fragrance, more particularly from 15% to 35% by weight of fragrance, preferably from 20% to 25% by weight of fragrance relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Solvents for fragrances

[0095] According to another embodiment, the solid composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one solvent, preferably lipophilic, for the fragrance.

[0096] This solvent may in particular be chosen from triethyl citrate, isopropyl palmitate, tributyl citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may have less than 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, of solvents for the perfume relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] According to another embodiment, the dispersed phase is free of solvent for the fragrance.

[0099] Additional compounds

[0100] The composition according to the invention, and more particularly the fatty phase, and even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may also comprise at least one additional compound different from the lipophilic gelling agents, oils and perfumes mentioned above.

[0101] The composition according to the present invention may also include powders; flakes; colorants, in particular selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic colorants, materials with optical effects, liquid crystals and mixtures thereof; granules insoluble in the fat phase; odorants; preservatives; moisturizers; fillers with a blurring effect; effervescent agents; disintegrants (such as cross-linked carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, etc.); diluents; disintegration promoters; stabilizers; chelating agents; softeners; modifiers selected from texture agents (or gelling agents, more specifically hydrophilic gelling agents), agents for adjusting pH, agents for adjusting osmotic force and / or refractive index regulators, etc. ... or any commonly used cosmetic additives; and mixtures thereof.

[0102] The "fat-phase insoluble granules" defined in the present invention refer to the group consisting of pigments, ceramics, polymers (especially acrylic polymers) and mixtures thereof.

[0103] As the hydrophilic gelling agent, reference may be made to the hydrophilic gelling agents described in FR3041251.

[0104] The composition according to the invention, more particularly the fatty phase, and even the dispersed aqueous phase when present, may also comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active agent chosen from moisturizers, vitamins, anti-wrinkle or anti-aging agents, scarring agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, exfoliating agents, antioxidants, active agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules, skin relaxants, antiperspirants, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] As described below, the composition according to the invention may also include at least one solvent that is susceptible to complete or partial evaporation during the manufacturing process. As solvent, for example, non-polar or slightly polar organic solvents such as cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran) and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0106] Of course, a person skilled in the art will ensure that the raw materials, ingredients, active agents and / or any additional compounds described above and / or their amounts are selected so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not altered or substantially altered by the mixture envisaged. Furthermore, a person skilled in the art will ensure that the properties and / or amounts of the raw materials, active agents and / or the additional compounds mentioned above are selected according to the aqueous or fatty properties of the phases under consideration and / or with regard to the method for making the composition. Such adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0107] The solid nature of the composition according to the invention advantageously allows for the provision of conventional packaging. In fact, the packaging of the solid composition according to the invention may be limited, for example, to a simple packaging such as in paper.

[0108] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention does not consist of a fibrous lattice.

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any surfactant.

[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any alcohol.

[0111] Preferably, the solid composition according to the present invention does not include one of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA or PVOH), polyacrylates, copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyoxyalkylenes, polyacrylonitrile (PES or PAN), polymethacrylate, polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, hyaluronic acid, starch and its derivatives, pullulan, gelatin, cellulose (e.g. rayon), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cotton and mixtures thereof.

[0112] The composition according to the invention does not comprise (or rely on) a water-soluble solid carrier, such as a hydrogel, more particularly based on starch (suitably destructured), and / or poloxamer 407.

[0113] Manufacturing method

[0114] The composition according to the invention is obtained by any method known to a person skilled in the art as being suitable for the manufacture of solid compositions, with the necessary adjustments being made to ensure the formation of cavities so as to meet the desired porosity criteria.

[0115] Preferably, the process for producing a solid composition according to the invention does not comprise a step of aeration / injection of a gas (for example air) followed, where appropriate, by a step of shaping and drying.

[0116] Method 1

[0117] According to a first variant, the method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0118] (i) a composition having a obtainable liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0119] (ii) casting the composition in a mold and drying until a solid composition is obtained,

[0120] (iii) cutting the solid composition into a desired shape, and

[0121] (iv) forming a cavity to obtain a solid composition according to the present invention.

[0122] Step (i) is advantageously carried out under hot conditions.

[0123] Advantageously, steps (iii) and (iv) are performed simultaneously.

[0124] Advantageously, steps (ii), (iii) and (iv) are carried out simultaneously, in which case the mould has a shape suitable for ensuring the formation of the cavity.

[0125] Step (iv) is advantageously carried out by means of a clay cutter.

[0126] The advantage of method 1 is that the waste obtained at the end of step (iv) can be recycled in a subsequent manufacturing process. In fact, in the subsequent to steps (i) and / or (ii) of method 1, the cuttings can be heated again and added again.

[0127] Method 2

[0128] According to a second variant, the method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention is an extrusion method.

[0129] This manufacturing method according to the present invention comprises at least the steps consisting of:

[0130] (a) a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form;

[0131] (b) passing the composition of step (a) through an extrusion device equipped with a die (or extrusion grating) having a shape suitable for forming a solid rod, and

[0132] (c) cutting the rods obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to the present invention.

[0133] For obvious reasons, step (b) is carried out at a temperature suitable for obtaining a composition having sufficient viscosity to easily retain the given shape of the mould.

[0134] For obvious reasons, the die shape of the extrusion device is also adapted to form the cavity.

[0135] Advantageously, step (b) is carried out at a temperature below ambient temperature, for example at a temperature lower than or equal to 15°C, or even lower than or equal to 10°C.

[0136] In step (b), the extrusion apparatus comprises a die having a shape suitable for forming a cavity and a desired porosity at the solid rod.

[0137] As an example, the extrusion method according to the present invention comprises Figure 4 The mold shown.

[0138] Step (c) may be performed using a knife or wire, such as a butter cutting wire.

[0139] Preferably, steps (b) and (c) are performed simultaneously.

[0140] Preferably, the method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention is the extrusion method 2 described above.

[0141] According to a particular embodiment applicable to the above-mentioned methods 1 and 2, step (i) / (a) consists in having a fluid composition which may include at least one solvent susceptible to complete or partial evaporation during step (ii) / (b) or even during the addition of steps (iii) and / or (iv) / (c).

[0142] As solvents, there may be mentioned, for example, nonpolar or slightly polar organic solvents such as cyclohexane, THF (tetrahydrofuran) and mixtures thereof.

[0143] In the above methods 1 and 2, when the composition comprises at least one fat phase containing at least one lipophilic gelling agent, step (i) / (a) may require heating the composition to a temperature higher than the highest melting point of the lipophilic gelling agent present in the composition.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment, the extrusion method 2 can be performed by 3D printing technology.

[0145] use

[0146] The compositions of the invention are useful for perfuming keratinous materials, more particularly the skin.

[0147] More specifically, depending on whether the solid composition according to the invention is applied directly to the keratinous material or needs to be mixed with an aqueous medium beforehand, the composition according to the invention can be, for example, creams, lotions, serums and gels for use on the skin (hands, face, feet, etc.), hair dye products (hair dyes and bleaches), hair care products (lotions, creams, oils), styling products (lotions, hair sprays, lighteners), shaving products (soaps, foams, lotions, etc.), products for application to the skin, products for whitening the skin, anti-wrinkle products. More specifically, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be an anti-aging serum, a youth serum or a moisturizing serum.

[0148] Advantageously, the solid composition according to the invention is not in the form of a mask.

[0149] The solid composition according to the invention is not a composition for cosmetic application solely to keratinous substances.On the other hand, the solid composition according to the invention may be a BB cream or a CC cream and therefore also comprises at least one pigment.

[0150] According to a first embodiment, more particularly when the composition according to the invention is of the single-dose type, the solid composition according to the invention is intended to be in direct contact with the keratin substances.

[0151] According to a second embodiment, the solid composition according to the invention is intended to be brought into contact with an aqueous phase, more particularly with water, before, simultaneously with and / or after its application to the keratinous materials to be treated. When the composition according to the invention is not of the single-dose type, it is brought into contact with water only during the first use and presupposes that the "solid composition / water" mixture is packaged in a suitable container. For obvious reasons, it requires a solid composition of suitable formulation and a sufficient amount of water to ensure the transition from the solid composition to a liquid composition, for example in gel form. Therefore, it is also necessary to have at least one preservative in the solid composition to ensure good preservation over time of the liquid composition thus formed.

[0152] Finally, the invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for perfuming keratinous materials, more particularly the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition as described above.

[0153] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a product comprising or derived from the contact between at least one first solid composition and at least one second liquid composition as described above.

[0154] First solid composition

[0155] The first composition as defined in the present invention may also be referred to as a "first solid composition" or a "solid composition", and corresponds to the solid composition as described above.

[0156] Second liquid composition

[0157] The second composition as defined in the present invention may also be referred to as a "second liquid composition" or a "liquid composition".

[0158] According to a first variant, the second composition is aqueous.

[0159] According to a second variant, the second composition is anhydrous.

[0160] According to a third variant, the second composition is an emulsion. The emulsion may be a direct emulsion (ie oil-in-water), an inverse emulsion (ie water-in-oil) or a multiple emulsion, more specifically a double emulsion (ie water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil or oil-in-oil-in-water).

[0161] According to a particular embodiment, the second composition is a stable emulsion, preferably a direct emulsion highly concentrated in the dispersed phase, in particular a HIPE (ie “High Internal Phase Emulsion”) or an Apollo emulsion.

[0162] The second composition according to the invention is not in solid form at ambient temperature and pressure, ie it flows readily under its own weight.

[0163] The second composition according to the invention is in the form of a liquid, preferably a gel.

[0164] When in emulsion form, the viscosity of the second composition, or at least the viscosity of its phase, may vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain different textures. The viscosity is measured at ambient temperature and ambient pressure according to the method described in WO2017046305.

[0165] For obvious reasons, the viscosity of the second composition is adjusted to facilitate removal / application of the product according to the invention.

[0166] According to one embodiment, according to the above method, the second composition advantageously has a viscosity measured at 25° C. of 5000 MPa·s to 500000 MPa·s, preferably 10000 MPa·s to 300000 MPa·s, better still 25000 MPa·s to 100000 MPa·s, more particularly 50000 MPa·s to 75000 MPa·s.

[0167] Preferably, the second composition can reduce the firmness of the first composition. More specifically, the second composition can advantageously include at least one starting material that tends to reduce the firmness of the first composition. The advantage of this embodiment is that it can change the solid texture of the first composition into a softer texture. Therefore, it can be called a "conversion effect".

[0168] The product according to the invention may advantageously comprise a “first composition / second composition” weight ratio comprised between 0.01 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, better still between 0.5 and 1.

[0169] According to a particular embodiment, the first composition may comprise a high content of fragrance and / or biological / cosmetic active agents, as described below. Thus, the first composition may be considered a "synergist".

[0170] In view of the above, the product according to the present invention is a ready-to-use product, ie when the product is used for the first time, the user will bring the first composition into contact with the second composition.

[0171] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a kit comprising:

[0172] - at least one first solid composition as described above;

[0173] - at least one second liquid composition as described above; and

[0174] -Optionally at least one container.

[0175] A container may be referred to indiscriminately as a "container", "packaging" or "primary packaging".

[0176] The invention also relates to the use of the above-described kit for obtaining a product according to the invention.

[0177] Preferably, the kit according to the invention may also comprise at least one application / administration mechanism.

[0178] In the case of products for cosmetic use, the kit according to the invention may also comprise at least one member for application to keratinous materials, for example chosen from the group formed by a scraper, a brush, a feather or a sponge.

[0179] According to particular variants, the kit may comprise a plurality of identical or different first compositions and / or a plurality of identical or different second compositions, and / or at least one application mechanism.

[0180] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a kit comprising a plurality of first compositions in single-dose form, said first compositions comprising different cosmetic / biologically active agents and / or different amounts of cosmetic / biologically active agents.

[0181] Such a kit according to the invention thus advantageously allows the user to easily adapt the desired effect.

[0182] In the case of cosmetic products, this particular embodiment allows the user to determine the desired cosmetic effect, in particular according to his / her mental state (mood), his / her clothing style and / or the time of day.

[0183] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0184] Figure 1 A composition according to the invention is shown having a parallelepiped shape with a cylindrical cavity. A is a side view and B is a top view.

[0185] Figure 2 An oval-shaped composition according to the present invention is shown with a cavity represented by the word "SOAP" (top view).

[0186] Figure 3 A composition according to the invention having honeycomb cavities is shown (top view).

[0187] Figure 4 A mold for use in the method of the present invention is shown.

[0188] Figure 5 A comparison die is shown.

[0189] Figure 6Other examples of solid compositions according to the present invention are shown. Example

[0190] Example 1 - Comparative Study

[0191] Step 1 - Manufacturing :

[0192] name ％ Mutually Shea Butter QSP* A Sunflower Oil 10.00 A Beeswax (white) 30.00 A Cosmetic fragrance 15.00 B total 100

[0193] * Appropriate amount

[0194] In a container placed in a water bath (80° C.), all ingredients A above were mixed until homogeneity was achieved.

[0195] Then add ingredient B under stirring until homogenization is achieved, and proceed to step 2.

[0196] Step 2 - Extrusion :

[0197] - injecting the mixture obtained in step 1 into the provided extruder, which in the first case is equipped with Figure 4 The die according to the invention shown in the second case is equipped with an extruder as Figure 5 Comparative die shown;

[0198] At the exit of the die, the extruded rods were cut respectively to obtain the weights and volumes stated in Table 1 below.

[0199] - respectively obtain the honeycomb structure according to the present invention (Test 1, such as Figure 6 A single dose solid flavoring composition in the form of a solid composition having the same general shape as Test 1 but without a cavity (Soap 2 and Soap 3) was used.

[0200]

[0201] Step 3 - Administration:

[0202] Step 3 was conducted in a group of 18 women aged between 22 and 47 years old (hereinafter referred to as "testers"), who were then divided into three groups, each consisting of 6 women (Group A, Group B, and Group C).

[0203] For each group, the test subjects applied the test composition to the skin of their neck.

[0204] Groups A, B, and C used Trial 1, Trial 2, and Trial 3, respectively, but the order was different each time.

[0205] During Step 3, the testers evaluated the performance of Tests 1, 2 and 3 based on (i) gripping ability, (ii) uniformity of applied deposit, (iii) ease of application and (iv) condition of the composition after use.

[0206] Scoring criteria:

[0207] Scoring Criteria 0 1 2 Grabbing ability Satisfactory medium Difference Uniformity of coverage Satisfactory medium Difference Ease of application Satisfactory medium Difference Condition of the composition after use disappear completely Some residue Maintain general structure

[0208] The following table lists the mean results obtained for groups A, B and C, noting that the trends observed among the three groups are the same.

[0209]

[0210] By comparing Test 2 and Test 3, it was observed that when the size was too small, the gripping was poor and the handling was difficult, and when the product was too large, it was impossible to consume it completely in a single dose, which would result in a lot of losses.

[0211] In addition, Test 2 and Test 3 had moderate characteristics in terms of deposition uniformity and ease of use.

[0212] Test 1 according to the invention can combine the advantages of Comparative Tests 2 and 3 without their disadvantages.

[0213] Thanks to the presence of cavities in the content under consideration, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a solid flavoring composition that combines the ability to produce a uniform deposit with less material, while producing less losses, and has uniformity and satisfactory ease of use without affecting the properties related to gripping.

[0214] Therefore, the solid composition according to the invention consumes less raw materials and is therefore ecologically and economically advantageous.

[0215] Example 2 - Solid Fragrance Stick

[0216] name INCI ％ Mutually ESTOGEL M Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 42.00 A CETIOL C5 C Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 38.00 A PARFUM spices 19.70 B Unicert Red 07004-J CI14700 0.30 A

[0217] * Appropriate amount

[0218] The manufacturing method is as follows:

[0219] - Add the ingredients of phase A to a container and heat the mixture at 100°C with stirring until it is homogeneous;

[0220] - Cool to 80°C and add the ingredients of phase B while stirring until uniform;

[0221] -like Figure 4As shown, the mixture obtained is injected into an extruder equipped with a die according to the invention; at the outlet of the die, the extruded rods are cut so as to obtain the desired shape and size; and the solid composition obtained is packaged in suitable packaging.

Claims

1. A solid fragrance cosmetic composition of a keratinous substance, more specifically skin, comprising at least one fragrance, characterized in that: The composition comprises at least one cavity such that the porosity of the composition is greater than or equal to 20 volume % relative to the total volume of the solid composition.

2. The solid composition according to claim 1, wherein the porosity is greater than or equal to 30% by volume, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 50% by volume, even greater than or equal to 60% by volume, more particularly greater than or equal to 70% by volume, most particularly greater than or equal to 80% by volume, relative to the total volume of the solid composition.

3. The solid composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cavity is through-going.

4. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises one or more identical or different cavities, preferably a plurality of identical or different cavities.

5. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cavity is circular, rectangular, oval, triangular, polygonal, honeycomb, or in a tiled shape (or cut-out shape), such as a Voronoi diagram, preferably in a honeycomb shape.

6. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio of the volume of the cavity to the total volume of the composition is between 0.2 and 0.9, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, more preferably between 0.2 and 0.7, even between 0.2 and 0.

6.

7. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 1% to 60% by weight of fragrance, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight of fragrance, more particularly from 10% to 40% by weight of fragrance, more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight of fragrance, preferably from 20% to 25% by weight of fragrance, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably a thermosensitive lipophilic gelling agent, at least one oil and mixtures thereof.

9. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the solid composition, preferably in encapsulated form.

10. A solid composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is a single dose composition.

11. A kit comprising: - at least one first solid composition, the first solid composition being a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10; - at least one second liquid composition; and -Optionally at least one container.

12. A package comprising a plurality of solid compositions according to any one of the preceding claims, preferably in single-dose form, comprising different aromas and / or different amounts of aromas.

13. A method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least the steps consisting of: (i) obtaining a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form; (ii) casting the composition into a mold and drying until a solid composition is obtained; (iii) cutting the solid composition into a desired shape, and (iv) forming a cavity to obtain a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

14. A method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least the steps consisting of: (a) obtaining a composition in liquid or semi-liquid form; (b) passing the composition of step (a) through an extrusion device equipped with a die shaped to form a solid stick, and (c) cutting the rod obtained in step (b) to obtain a solid composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for perfuming keratinous materials, more particularly the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

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