Anhydrous composition for making up keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for making up keratin materials, comprising 1) a polyester-containing mixture comprising a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of: i) at least one polyglycerol-3; and ii) at least one dimer acid; and iii) at least one C8-C30 fatty monoacid wherein the molar ratios of the reacted components i) to iii) are 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid; and b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H1; 2) at least one wax; 3) at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, iron oxides, organic pigments and colorants soluble in the composition medium; and optionally 4) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H2, which is the same as or different from oil H1.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to anhydrous compositions for cosmetically treating keratin materials such as the skin and lips, in particular the lips. The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetically treating keratin materials such as the skin and lips, in particular the lips. Background Art

[0002] Compositions for cosmetically treating the skin and / or lips are produced to meet the need for long-lasting / non-transfer properties.

[0003] Generally, when women use cosmetics, especially lip products such as lipsticks or lip glosses, they expect the product to be color-fast after application and to provide a good sensory feel, such as not being sticky and not drying out.

[0004] For lip cosmetics, especially lipsticks or lip liquids with a high pigment content, if the formulation does not contain a film-forming polymer, their long-lasting / non-transfer properties are usually not satisfactory to consumers. The most effective and widely used film formers are silicone-based polymers, which require large amounts of one or more silicone oils for dispersion. However, if the oil phase is non-silicone or the content of one or more silicone oils is extremely low, there are very few non-silicone film formers that can effectively improve the long-lasting / non-transfer properties and have good compatibility with the oil phase.

[0005] Therefore, there is still a need to obtain products for cosmetically treating keratin materials such as the skin and lips, which provide deposits with good color transfer resistance and good film-forming properties. Summary of the Invention

[0006] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide products for cosmetically treating keratin materials such as the skin and lips, which provide deposits with good color transfer resistance and good film-forming properties.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for cosmetically treating keratin materials such as the skin and lips, in particular the lips.

[0008] Therefore, according to one aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous solid composition for cosmetically treating keratin materials, which comprises:

[0009] 1) A polyester-containing mixture, which contains

[0010] a) At least one polyester, which is a reaction product of the following components:

[0011] i) At least one polyglycerol-3; and

[0012] ii) At least one dimer acid; and

[0013] iii) At least one C8-C 30Fatty monocarboxylic acid,

[0014] wherein the molar ratio of the components in the reaction is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid; and

[0015] b) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably non-volatile non-silicone oil H1;

[0016] 2) at least one wax;

[0017] 3) at least one colorant selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, organic pigments and colorants soluble in the medium of the composition; and optionally

[0018] 4) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H2, which is the same as or different from oil H1.

[0019] The anhydrous composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for lip products.

[0020] According to another aspect, the present invention provides a method for making up keratin materials, such as skin and lips, especially lips, comprising applying the anhydrous composition as described herein to the keratin materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] Throughout the specification (including the claims), unless otherwise specified, the term "comprising one" should be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one". In addition, the expression "at least one" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0023] Throughout the specification (including the claims), embodiments defined by "comprising" etc. should be understood to cover preferred embodiments defined by "consisting essentially of" and preferred embodiments defined by "consisting of".

[0024] Except in the case of operating examples or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers representing amounts of components and / or reaction conditions should be understood to be modified in all cases by the term "about" with the meaning conventionally known in the art, for example within 10% of the indicated number (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% - 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% - 2.2%).

[0025] Throughout the specification (including the claims), "keratin materials" according to the present invention are preferably skin, more preferably lips.

[0026] In the present application, unless otherwise clearly stated, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.

[0027] After reading the following description and examples, other features and advantages of the present invention will become clearer.

[0028] The composition according to the invention is in anhydrous form, which means that there is no water, or there is water in an amount that a person skilled in the art can determine to be free of water or substantially free of water. For example, the anhydrous composition according to the invention may contain 3% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the invention does not contain a detectable amount of water, where "detectable amount" means an amount that can be detected by conventional devices in the art for measuring water content.

[0029] Component 1) Mixture containing polyester

[0030] The anhydrous composition according to the invention comprises a polyester-containing mixture as component 1). The polyester-containing mixture comprises a polyester and at least one non-volatile oil.

[0031] Component a) Polyester

[0032] The polyester of the invention is the reaction product of the following components:

[0033] i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0034] ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0035] iii) at least one C8-C 30 fatty monobasic acid,

[0036] wherein the molar ratio of the reacting components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid.

[0037] Thus, the polyester of the invention can be designated as "glycerol-based polyester".

[0038] The term "polyglycerol-3" of the invention refers to either pure triglycerol or a polyglycerol mixture containing at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is in the majority in the mixture.

[0039] Their synthesis is described in patent applications US202110259945, US202110259946 and US202110259930.

[0040] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is substantially or completely a non-sequential reaction product.

[0041] "Substantially non-sequential reaction product" means that the product is formed by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reacting components i)-iii).

[0042] "Substantially non-sequential reaction of reactants i)-iii)" means that, before the reaction is initiated, substantially the total amount of each reactant i)-iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel.

[0043] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, before the reaction is initiated, the total amount of each reactant i)-iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is the completely non-sequential reaction product of components i)-iii). In other embodiments, at least 70-100 wt%, or 75-100 wt%, or 80-100 wt%, or 85-100 wt%, or 90-100 wt%, or 95-100 wt%, or 97-100 wt% of each reactant i)-iii) is added to the reaction vessel before the reaction is initiated.

[0044] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all the reactants into the reaction vessel and then completely statistically adding the dimer acid and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol.

[0045] Component i) Polyglycerol-3

[0046] For the present invention, polyglycerol-3 refers to either pure triglycerol or a polyglycerol mixture that contains at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is in the majority in said mixture. Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH, where Gly is the residue of a glycerol molecule.

[0047] The polyglycerol-3 according to the present invention is in the form of a polyglycerol mixture containing triglycerol, which may contain polyglycerol, and said polyglycerol can be any oligomeric condensation product of glycerol and has the formula (I):

[0048] H[-O-Gly-] n -OH (I)

[0049] where each Gly is independently the residue after removing two hydroxyl groups from a glycerol molecule; and the average value of n is from 2 to 10.

[0050] Generally, most Gly groups will have the following formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, but residues containing etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are also considered within the scope of "Gly" and can thus be present. Examples of oligoglycerols include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. Particularly useful polyglycerols are those having the formula (I), where n is particularly from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of oligoglycerols within these ranges.

[0051] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include mixtures of oligoglycerols having the following oligomer distributions, where all weight percentages are based on the total content of polyglycerol.

[0052] - Glycerol: 0 to 30 wt%, preferably 0 to 20 wt%, more preferably 0 to 15 wt%;

[0053] - Diglycerol: 10 to 40 wt%, preferably 15 to 35 wt%, more preferably 20 to 32 wt%;

[0054] - Triglycerol: 10 to 65 wt%, preferably 15 to 60 wt%, more preferably 18 to 55 wt%;

[0055] - Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25 wt%, preferably 5 to 20 wt%, more preferably 8 to 20 wt%;

[0056] - Pentaglycerol: 0 to 15 wt%, preferably 0 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0 to 5 wt%;

[0057] - Hexaglycerol: 0 to 15 wt%, preferably 0 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0 to 5 wt%;

[0058] - Heptaglycerol: 0 to 10 wt%, preferably 0 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0 to 3 wt%;

[0059] - Octaglycerol: 0 to 10 wt%, preferably 0 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0 to 3 wt%;

[0060] - Nonaglycerol: 0 to 5 wt%, preferably 0 to 3 wt%, more preferably 0 to 2 wt%;

[0061] - Decaglycerol: 0 to 5 wt%, preferably 0 to 3 wt%, more preferably 0 to 2 wt%, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0062] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises the following oligomer distribution:

[0063] Glycerol: 0 to 30 wt%

[0064] Diglycerol: 15 to 40 wt%

[0065] Triglycerol: 10 to 55 wt%

[0066] Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25 wt%

[0067] Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15 wt%, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0068] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol that is at least 40 wt%, or at least 45 wt%, or at least 50 wt% based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0069] In one embodiment, polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises at least 20 wt% or at least 25 wt% diglycerol; at least 15 wt% or at least 18 wt% triglycerol; at least 10 wt% or at least 12 wt% tetraglycerol; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total content of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0070] Particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol, and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, based on the total content of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0071] Any such polyglycerol-3 in polyglycerol mixture form according to the invention can be analyzed to determine the median, mean, or "average" of its polyglycerol number. The above examples of oligoglycerols with narrow and wide distributions can also be designated as "polyglycerol-3" because this is the integer closest to the mean and / or median.

[0072] Component ii) Dimer acid

[0073] The dimer acids useful for polyesters can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be straight-chain or branched-chain, such as dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid, or trimethyladipic acid and their anhydrides.

[0074] Dimer fatty acids are particularly useful. They are known to be a mixture of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by the catalytic dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0075] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference can be made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", edited by E.C. Leonard; Hurmko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0076] The dicarboxylic acid can also contain small amounts of trifunctional and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture should not exceed a molar average of 2.4.

[0077] Preferred are dimer acids generally derived from triglycerides rich in C 18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 Unsaturated monocarboxylic acids. The raw materials can be derived from tall oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources can also be used, including flaxseed, soybean, pumpkin, and walnut. The target monocarboxylic acid used in the reaction is rich in oleic acid and linoleic acid forms described in the fatty acid list contained below. Dimerization mainly leads to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products, or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces most (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of the dimer acid (C 36 dicarboxylic acid), but also produces C 54 trimer acid (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25%).

[0078] In one case, a commercially available standard dimer acid from Croda is used which contains 72% by weight of dimer acid and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0079] In another case, a hydrogenated standard dimer acid Radiacid 0960 from Oleon is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer acid and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymers are characterized by a higher molecular weight, stronger hydrophobicity, and a higher viscosity than pure low molecular weight diacids. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and properties of these polymers.

[0080] In one embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0081] In another embodiment, the polyester is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid containing hydrogenated dimer C 18 fatty acids, wherein the hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C 18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0082] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content of about 5 - 25% by weight based on the total weight of the hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0083] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains most (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but not exceeding 95% by weight, or preferably not exceeding 90% by weight, or preferably not exceeding 85% by weight) of the hydrogenated dimer acid (C 36 dicarboxylic acid) and also contains C 54 hydrogenated trimer acid (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but greater than 5% by weight, more preferably greater than 1C% by weight). [[ID=३५]]

[0084] Component iii) C 8- C 30 Fatty monobasic acid

[0085] C8-C that can be used for the polyester 30 The fatty monocarboxylic acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, etc., but these fatty acids contain lower molecular weight chains and higher molecular weight chains. Useful fatty monocarboxylic acids can be straight-chain, branched-chain, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials, and their acidity is provided by the carboxylic acid moiety.

[0086] Useful acids include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C 10 ), undecanoic acid (C 11 ), lauric acid (C 12 ), tridecanoic acid (C 13 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C 15 ), palmitic acid (C 16 ), margaric acid (C 17 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), isostearic acid (C 18 ), nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ), arachidic acid (C 20 ), behenic acid (C 22 ) and lignoceric acid (C 24 ).

[0087] Comparing stearic acid and isostearic acid, it can be found that the branched chain results in a high melting point, resulting in a low viscosity of isostearic acid at room temperature, while stearic acid is a solid substance. This lower viscosity helps with the material handling of the raw materials and also helps the esters made from this acid to maintain a liquid nature. Branched-chain fatty acids usually contain a methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced by microbial action in nature. Isostearic acid is a reaction by-product in the production process of the above-mentioned dimer acid.

[0088] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use unsaturated straight-chain and branched-chain fatty monocarboxylic acids. These unsaturated acids can include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), oleic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), elaidic linoleic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), guarana acid (C20:1), cis-11-eicosenoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), docosahexaenoic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). It is well known to those skilled in the art that the name indicates that the carbon chain has X carbon atoms; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0089] In one embodiment, isostearic acid is preferred.

[0090] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0091] i) At least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture, which contains at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0092] ii) At least one hydrogenated dimer acid, which contains at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C 36 dicarboxylic acid and 5 - 25% by weight of hydrogenated C 54 tricarboxylic acid, in each case based on the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and

[0093] iii) Isostearic acid.

[0094] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then completely statistically adding the dimer acid and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol.

[0095] In one embodiment, it is preferred that the total degree of esterification (total degree of esterification) of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl groups is 24% to 74%, and the degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl groups only by the dimer acid (esterification with dimer acid) is 20% to 40%. More importantly, the degree of esterification of the end group units (esterification with monobasic acid) is also set in the present disclosure, and it is important to maintain the degree of esterification with monobasic acid at 4% to 40%.

[0096] More preferably, the total degree of esterification is 28% to 57%, wherein the degree of esterification with dimer acid is 20% to 30%, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 8% to 27%.

[0097] Even more preferably, the total degree of esterification is 33% to 48%, wherein the degree of esterification with dimer acid is 20% to 28%, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 13% to 20%.

[0098] Even more preferably, the total degree of esterification is 24% to 74%, wherein the degree of esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is 20% to 40%, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 4% to 40%.

[0099] Even more preferably, the total degree of esterification is 28% to 57%, wherein the degree of esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is 20% to 30%, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 8% to 27%.

[0100] Even more preferably, the total degree of esterification is about 40%, wherein the degree of esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is about 20%, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is about 20%.

[0101] Even more preferably, the total esterification degree is about 40%, wherein the esterification degree of hydrogenated dimer acid is about 27% and the esterification degree of monobasic acid is about 13%.

[0102] In one embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid, and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of fatty acid.

[0103] In another embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid, and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0104] In another embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid, and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0105] In another embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of isostearic acid.

[0106] In another embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0107] In another embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid, and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0108] In another embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0109] In a more preferred embodiment, the molar ratio of the reaction components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0110] By adjusting the fatty acid capping molar ratio and balancing the amounts of polyglycerol and dimer acid, the degree of dimer acid-polyglycerol extension and capping can also be controlled, thereby crosslinking, for example, through trimer acid, resulting in a higher viscosity.

[0111] The target viscosity of the pure polymer should be >50,000 cPs and <5,000,000 mPa·s at 25 °C.

[0112] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is >75,000 mPa·s and <2,500,000 mPa·s at 25 °C.

[0113] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0114] In a more preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0115] The viscosity was measured using an MCR3O2 from Anton Paar Inc. The viscosity was measured. A rough or smooth 50 mm diameter double plate, covered with the polymer sample, was used. The gap was adjusted to 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the present invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and thus have a constant viscosity over a wide shear rate range. In addition, the polyesters of the present disclosure exhibit a decreasing viscosity with decreasing temperature. Therefore, viscosity measurements are reported at precisely controlled temperatures and a shear rate of typically 1. Values are reported in mPa.s.

[0116] The polyesters of the present invention are characterized in that the weight average molecular weight measured using linear polystyrene standards by GPC is > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da.

[0117] The GPC columns used for these tests included: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; using tetrahydrofuran (THF) as the continuous phase and injecting at 0.35 mL / min, the column oven was maintained at 40 °C; 50 μL injection, Wyatt refractive index Ri detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrenes made monodisperse. Narrow range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in the mobile phase with peak molecular weights of 1,29 0,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. The weight average and number average molecular weights were automatically calculated by standard GPC software according to standard methods.

[0118] In a preferred embodiment, the disclosed polyesters have a weight average molecular weight measured using linear polystyrene standards by GPC of > 4000 Da and < 250,000 Da. In a more preferred embodiment, the disclosed polymers have a weight average molecular weight measured using linear polystyrene standards by GPC of > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da.

[0119] In yet another embodiment, the polyesters of the present invention exhibit a combination of a weight average molecular weight measured using linear polystyrene standards by GPC of > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da, and a viscosity at 25 °C of > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components:

[0121] i) At least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture, which contains at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0122] ii) At least one hydrogenated dimer acid, which contains at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C 36 dicarboxylic acid and 5 - 25% by weight of hydrogenated C 54 tricarboxylic acid, in each case based on the total weight of the hydrogenated acids; and

[0123] iii) Isostearic acid;

[0124] wherein the polyester exhibits a combination of a weight-average molecular weight measured using GPC with linear polystyrene standards > 5000 Da and < 15,000 Da, and a viscosity at 25 °C > 100,000 mPa·s and < 2,000,000 mPa·s; and wherein the polyester is further characterized by a total esterification degree of about 40%, wherein the esterification degree of the hydrogenated dimer acid is about 27%, and the esterification degree of the monobasic acid is about 13%.

[0125] In fact, since the raw materials contain a certain range of polyglycerol-3 units and a certain range of dimer acid and trimer acid contents, the actual (non-theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid moieties can be used to adjust the above numbers, as they are determined by standard methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structures of polyglycerol-3 and C 36 dimer acid. Therefore, the actual ranges may vary slightly from the values given above and can be calculated based on these analyses.

[0126] It is more practical to define the degree of polymerization using the final acid value. Considering the distribution of polyglycerol present, the monobasic and polybasic acid moieties, the actual acid value determined from the raw materials used can be used to reliably calculate the initial acid value.

[0127] For example, the initial total acid value (“AV”, usually defined as mg KOH / g total reactants) is 135 AV. In a preferred embodiment, this includes 68 AV of dimer acid and 67 AV of isostearic acid, and this preferred embodiment contains 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C 36Dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All of the above preferred ratio embodiments have corresponding calculable initial AVs. When the AV units decrease during the polymerization reaction, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid portion to the final residual acid portion. Thus, reaction completion is 1 minus the ratio of the final AV to the initial AV.

[0128] In one embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <25 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0129] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <10 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0130] In a more preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention has a final acid value of 0.1 to <5 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0131] Expressing the degree of reaction completion as (1 - final AV) / initial AV, the degree of reaction completion of such a reactor mixture to form the final polymer is >80%.

[0132] In a preferred embodiment, the degree of reaction completion of such a reactor mixture to form the final polymer is >90%.

[0133] In a more preferred embodiment, the degree of reaction completion of such a reactor mixture to form the final polymer is >95%.

[0134] In a more preferred embodiment, the polyester of the present invention is the reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C 36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as disclosed in Example 10 of US202 1 / 0259945.

[0135] Component b) Non-volatile oil

[0136] Non-volatile oils can be used as component b) to form a polyester-containing mixture with the polyester of component a).

[0137] Solution of polyester and non-volatile oil

[0138] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyester-containing mixture can be in the form of an oily solution, which contains the polyester as component a) and b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0139] Solutions of one or more oils and polyesters of this type are described in patent applications US202110259945, US202110259946 and US202110259930.

[0140] Non-volatile oil

[0141] The oil present in the mixture of the present invention may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 105 Pa).

[0143] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one Si-O group, and more specifically an organopolysiloxane.

[0144] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl functional groups. That is, the hydrocarbon-based oil is preferably a non-silicone oil.

[0145] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and particularly has a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by a percolation method of isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0146] According to the present invention, for use as component b), non-volatile non-silicone oils are preferably used. As examples of non-volatile non-silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of:

[0147] - Vegetable oils, such as vegetable stearates, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), diesters such as diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, especially where the fatty acid chain length can be C4 to C36, especially C18 to C36, and these oils can be straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils can in particular be triglycerides of enanthic or caprylic acid, shea butter, alfalfa oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, barrage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, courgette seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's wort oil, monoioil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, nut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, butternut squash oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by StEarineries Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the name and sold;

[0148] - Straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, such as C 13 - C 16 isoparaffins, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as Parleam) or squalane;

[0149] - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether;

[0150] - Synthetic esters, such as esters of C4-C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C1-C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C 26Esters of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols, examples of which include diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol didecanoate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; ethylene glycol distearate; diethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate;

[0151] - Copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or copolymers of dilinoleic acid / butanediol,

[0152] - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, having branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

[0153] - Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0154] - Carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate;

[0155] - Acetates;

[0156] - Citrates;

[0157] - Optionally partially hydrocarbon-based oils and / or silicone fluorinated oils, such as the fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones described in EP-A-847752;

[0158] - Polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone) (all groups R1 to R6 and X represent methyl), especially with a viscosity of 50 to 500 cSt, especially 350 cSt, such as the product sold by Wacker under the name Belsil DM and the product sold by Dow Corning under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone 350CS, and more especially polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone) with a viscosity of 50 to 150 cSt, especially 100 cSt, such as the product sold by Wacker under the name Belsil Commodities sold under the name and Dow Corning's Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100 Commodities sold under the name.

[0159] - Phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethylsiloxane, phenyldimethylpolysiloxane, phenyltrimethylsilyloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylpolysiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsilyloxy silicate; and

[0160] - Mixtures thereof.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, more preferably from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid.

[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, squalene, C4-C 22 Diesters or triesters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C1-C 22 Alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C 26 Di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The oily solution of the polyester of the present invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with an organic substance at about 80 - 100 °C. Then the mixture is further cooled to 50 - 70 °C to be discharged from the reactor and stored.

[0164] The concentration of the polyester in the oily solution of the polyester of the present invention is preferably 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, and more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0165] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-volatile non-silicone described herein can be used as oil H1, i.e., component b), to form a polyester-containing mixture of component 1) with the polyester of component a), for example, by forming the oily solution described herein. In addition, the non-volatile non-silicone described herein can be used as oil H2, i.e., component 4), which is the same as or different from oil H1, to formulate an anhydrous composition with components 1), 2) and 3).

[0166] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the present invention contains an oily solution, and the oily solution contains:

[0167] a) A polyester obtained by reacting the following components

[0168] i) At least one polyglycerol-3, and

[0169] ii)C 36 Hydrogenated acid dimer; and

[0170] iii) Isostearic acid; wherein the molar ratio of the reacting components is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid; and

[0171] b) Caprylic / capric triglyceride, with the INCI name: Diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dilinoleate (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0172] This oily solution is sold by NOURYON under the name SOLAMAZE and contains 60% by weight of polyester active material.

[0173] The polyester-containing mixture of component 1) can be present in the anhydrous composition in an amount of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the total anhydrous composition.

[0174] Component 2) One or more waxes

[0175] The anhydrous composition according to the invention comprises a wax as component 2).

[0176] The waxes contemplated in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds that are solid at room temperature (25 °C), have a reversible solid / liquid state change, a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 40 °C, up to 200 °C, especially up to 120 °C.

[0177] The waxes used in the present invention include various fractions of waxes of animal origin, plant origin, mineral origin, synthetic waxes and natural origin.

[0178] Animal waxes include but are not limited to beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives and Chinese insect wax. Plant waxes include but are not limited to rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, murumuru wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, cocoa butter, Japan wax and sumac wax. Mineral waxes include but are not limited to montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, petrolatum and ceresin. Synthetic waxes include but are not limited to polyethylene homopolymer and copolymer waxes, synthetic beeswax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and silicone waxes.

[0179] Useful waxes, regardless of their origin, can be hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, sunflower seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax and ozokerite; polyethylene wax, polymethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and their esters.

[0180] Waxes having straight-chain or branched C8-C 32 fatty chains obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, as well as fatty esters and glycerol esters, are also used.

[0181] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, one or more waxes used in the present invention can be selected from polyethylene, synthetic wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax or mixtures thereof.

[0182] One or more waxes can be present in an amount of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0183] Component 3) One or more colorants

[0184] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in a suitable cosmetic medium in a sufficient amount.

[0185] Colorants contemplated in the context of the present invention can be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble (especially colorants soluble in the composition medium) or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic colorants, materials having an optical effect and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Water-soluble dye

[0187] Useful colorants according to the present invention can comprise water-soluble dyes.

[0188] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound that is soluble in the aqueous phase or in a water-miscible solvent and is capable of imparting color. Specifically, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of the compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25 °C, at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / 1 (resulting in a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution). This solubility is particularly greater than or equal to 1 g / 1.

[0189] As water-soluble dyes applicable to the present invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes can be particularly mentioned, such as FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

[0190] As non-limiting examples of one or more sources of water-soluble colorants that can be used in the context of the present invention, colorants of natural origin can be particularly mentioned, such as extracts of carmine, beetroot, grapes, carrots, tomatoes, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel, and curcumin.

[0191] Therefore, the water-soluble colorants applicable to the present invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, carmin, norcarmin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, violaxanthin, neoxanthin, riboflavin, taxaxanthin, canthaxanthin, and chlorophyll and their mixtures.

[0192] They can also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfonated polyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salt of tartrazine, and disodium salt of magenta.

[0193] Some of these water-soluble colorants are particularly approved for use in food. Representatives of these dyes that can be more particularly mentioned include dyes of the carotenoid family, with food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140, and E141.

[0194] Pigment

[0195] The colorants useful according to the present invention can comprise pigments, including inorganic pigments and organic pigments.

[0196] The term "pigment" shall be understood to mean white or coloured inorganic (mineral) or organic particles which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.

[0197] Pigments may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0198] Pigments may be selected from single-colour pigments, lakes and pigments with optical effects, such as angle-of-view flash pigments and nacre.

[0199] Mineral pigments may be selected from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, hydrated chromium, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine, iron blue, metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder and mixtures thereof.

[0200] Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from dyes attached to a substrate.

[0201] Lakes, also known as organic pigments, may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof:

[0202] - carmine;

[0203] - organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes.

[0204] Of particular mention are the organic pigments known by the following names: D&C Blue No.4, D&C Brown No.1, D&C Green No.5, D&C Green No.6, D&C Orange No.4, D&C Orange No.5, D&C Orange No.10, D&C Orange No.11, D&C Red No.6, D&C Red No.7, D&C Red No.17, D&C Red No.21, D&C Red No.22, D&C Red No.27, D&C Red No.28, D&C Red No.30, D&C Red No.31, D&C Red No.33, D&C Red No.34, D&C Red No.36, D&C Violet No.2, D&C Yellow No.7, D&C Yellow No.8, D&C Yellow No.10, D&C Yellow No.11, FD&C Blue No.1, FD&C Green No.3, FD&C Red No.40, FD&C Yellow No.5, FD&C Yellow No.6;

[0205] - The organic lakes can be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acid dyes (such as azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes), and these dyes may contain at least one carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group.

[0206] The organic lakes can also be loaded on organic carriers, such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.

[0207] Among the organic lakes, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: D&C Red No.2 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No.6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No.6 Strontium Lake, D&C Red No.6 Potassium Lake, D&C Red No.7 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.7 Barium Lake, D&C Red No.7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No.7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No.7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.8 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No.9 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.9 Barium Lake, D&C Red No.9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No.9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No.19 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.19 Barium Lake, D&C Red No.19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.21 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.22 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.27 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.27 Barium Lake, D&C Red No.27 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No.27 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.28 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.30 Lake, D&C Red No.31 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No.33 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.34 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No.36 Lake, D&C Red No.40 Aluminum Lake, D&C Blue No.1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Green No.3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Orange No.10 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.17 Barium Lake, D&C Yellow No.5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No.5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No.6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No.7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No.10 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Blue No.1 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No.4 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No.40 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No.5 Aluminum Lake and FD&C Yellow No.6 Aluminum Lake.

[0208] The pigments may also have been hydrophobically treated.

[0209] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, alkoxysilane and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphate ester, perfluoroalkylsilane, perfluoroalkylsilazane, polyhexafluoroepoxypropane, polyorganosiloxane containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether group and amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate and their mixtures.

[0210] The N-acyl amino acid may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, zirconium salt, zinc salt, sodium salt or potassium salt. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0211] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the above compounds particularly means an alkyl group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0212] The hydrophobic treated pigment is particularly described in patent application EP-A-1086683.

[0213] Fat-soluble dye

[0214] Lipophilic dyes may be used, such as dyes soluble in the composition medium. Examples may be DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.

[0215] Mother-of-pearl

[0216] For the purposes of this patent application, the term "mother-of-pearl" refers to colored particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, particularly produced by certain mollusks in their shells or synthetic, and which have a color effect by optical interference.

[0217] Examples of mother-of-pearl that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye (particularly an organic dye of the above type), and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0218] They may also be mica particles with at least two continuous layers of metal oxide layer and / or organic colorant layer superimposed on their surfaces.

[0219] More specifically, nacre can have a color or hue of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper.

[0220] As examples of nacre that can be introduced as an interference pigment into the first composition, mention may be made of gold nacre, in particular sold by BASF under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), and Monarchgold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacre, in particular sold by Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacre, in particular sold by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and by Merck under the names Passionorange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-toned nacre, in particular sold by Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite); copper-toned nacre, in particular sold by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); red-toned nacre, in particular sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-toned nacre, in particular sold by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); gold-toned red nacre, in particular sold by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacre, in particular sold by BASF under the name Tanopal G005 (Gemtone); gold-toned black nacre, in particular sold by BASF under the name Nu antiquebronze 240AB (Timica), blue nacre, in particular sold by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), silver-toned white nacre, in particular sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and chrysoberyl orange nacre, in particular sold by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0221] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorants used in the present invention are selected from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0222] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorants used in the present invention are selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, organic pigments, and colorants soluble in the composition medium.

[0223] According to an exemplary embodiment, one or more colorants used in the present invention are selected from titanium dioxide, Yellow 6 lake, Red 7, Blue 1 lake, or mixtures thereof.

[0224] The colorant may be present in an amount of from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 16% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0225] Additive

[0226] In a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additive commonly used in the art under consideration. In particular, the additives are selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, antibacterial agents, additional cosmetic active agents (such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors), and mixtures thereof.

[0227] For those skilled in the art, adjusting the nature and amount of the additives present in the composition of the present invention such that the advantageous properties of the composition used in the present invention are not or are substantially not adversely affected by the intended addition is a matter of routine operation.

[0228] Method and use

[0229] The compositions according to the present invention can generally be prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. However, it should be understood that those skilled in the art can select the preparation method according to their general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the ingredients used, such as their solubility in the carrier, and the intended application of the composition.

[0230] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used to treat keratin materials, especially the lips. This use can be manifested as a method of caring / making up keratin materials, especially the lips, including the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the keratin materials.

[0231] The present invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which illustrate particularly advantageous embodiments.

[0232] Although wide ranges of numerical values and parameters setting forth the present invention are approximations, the numerical values given in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors which are necessarily caused by the standard deviation in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit its scope thereby. Example

[0233] The amounts / concentrations of the ingredients in the following compositions / formulations are expressed in weight %, relative to the total weight of each composition / formulation.

[0234] The following lists the main raw materials, trade names, and suppliers used. Materials not specified herein are commercially available materials.

[0235]

[0236]

[0237] Preparation Procedure

[0238] Prepare the lip balm according to the following steps:

[0239] 1) Grind the pigments (Red 7, Red 28 lake, and / or Yellow 6 lake) together with the oil using a three-roll mill;

[0240] 2) Weigh and add the fatty phase (oil, wax, surfactant, paste, and / or polymer) to the main container, and heat the container to about 95 °C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0241] 3) Add glycerol to the main container and homogenize the body at a strong stirring speed of 1500 rpm;

[0242] 4) Add the pigment paste prepared in step 1);

[0243] 5) Once the body is homogeneous, perform lip balm molding, cooling, and picking.

[0244] Example A

[0245] For different purposes, according to Ex.1 - Ex.2 of the present invention, and Comparative Examples CE.1 - CE.8

[0246] Table 1:

[0247]

[0248] Example B

[0249] Evaluate the wear / non-transfer performance of the composition of Example A according to the following steps:

[0250] - Apply the composition on the forearm 3 times;

[0251] - Leave it for 45 minutes;

[0252] - Cover the applied area with a tissue paper and press it with a constant force for 10 seconds;

[0253] - Rate it from 1 to 5 according to the color intensity imprinted on the tissue paper. The lower the score, the lower the color intensity on the tissue paper and the better the non-transfer performance; and

[0254] - Average the evaluation scores given by at least 3 experienced scientists.

[0255] The scores are provided in Table 2 below:

[0256] Table 2:

[0257] Formulation Transfer test score CE.1 5 Ex.1 2.8 Ex.2 1 CE.2 4 CE.3 4.8 CE.4 4.5 CE.5 4 CE.6 4.5 CE.7 5 CE.8 5

[0258] The consumer panel further evaluated and scored the long-lasting / non-transfer performance of some compositions of Example A according to the following steps:

[0259] - Select 12 women aged 18 to 40;

[0260] - Require 12 users to try one composition on their lips every day; and

[0261] - Collect their feedback after they have tested all the provided compositions.

[0262] The scores are provided in Table 3 below:

[0263] Table 3:

[0264]

[0265] Example C

[0266] Prepare additional Ex.3 and Ex.4 according to Ex.1 as follows:

[0267] Table 4:

[0268]

[0269]

[0270] Evaluate the long-lasting / non-transfer performance of the compositions of Ex.1 to Ex.4 according to Example B. All the results of Ex.1 to Ex.4 are summarized as follows:

[0271] Table 5:

[0272] Formulation Transfer test score Ex.1 2.8 Ex.2 1 Ex.3 1.5 Ex.4 1

[0273] It can be seen that by using the composition of the present invention, especially an appropriate amount of diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, an ideal non-transfer performance is achieved.

Claims

1. An anhydrous composition for conditioning keratin materials, comprising: 1) A polyester-containing mixture containing a) At least one polyester which is a reaction product of the following components: i) At least one polyglycerol-3; and ii) At least one dimer acid; and iii) at least one C8-C 30 fatty monobasic acid, Among them, The molar ratio of the reacting components i)-iii) is 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid; and b) At least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H1; 2) At least one wax; 3) At least one colorant selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, organic pigments and colorants soluble in the composition medium; and optionally 4) At least one non-volatile non-silicone oil H2, which is the same as or different from oil H1.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglycerol-3 is either pure triglycerol or a polyglycerol mixture containing at least triglycerol.

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a polyglycerol mixture containing triglycerol contains any oligomeric condensation product of glycerol and has a polyglycerol of formula (I): H[-O-Gly-] n -OH (I) wherein each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and the average value of n is 2 to 10.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyglycerol-3 comprises a mixture of oligoglycerols having the following oligomer distribution, based on the total content of polyglycerol: - Glycerol: 0 to 30 wt%, preferably 0 to 20 wt%, more preferably 0 to 15 wt%; - Diglycerol: 10 to 40 wt%, preferably 15 to 35 wt%, more preferably 20 to 32 wt%; - Triglycerol: 10 to 65 wt%, preferably 15 to 60 wt%, more preferably 18 to 55 wt%; - Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25 wt%, preferably 5 to 20 wt%, more preferably 8 to 20 wt%; - Pentaglycerol: 0 to 15 wt%, preferably 0 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0 to 5 wt%; - Hexaglycerol: 0 to 15 wt%, preferably 0 to 10 wt%, more preferably 0 to 5 wt%; - Heptaglycerol: 0 to 10 wt%, preferably 0 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0 to 3 wt%; - Octaglycerol: 0 to 10 wt%, preferably 0 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0 to 3 wt%; - Nonaglycerol: 0 to 5 wt%, preferably 0 to 3 wt%, more preferably 0 to 2 wt%; - Decaglycerol: 0 to 5 wt%, preferably 0 to 3 wt%, more preferably 0 to 2 wt%, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyglycerol-3 comprises a mixture of oligoglycerols having the following oligomer distribution, based on the total content of polyglycerol: Glycerol: 0 to 30 wt% Diglycerol: 15 to 40 wt% Triglycerol: 10 to 55 wt% Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25 wt% Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15 wt%, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises at least 20% by weight or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total content of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dimer acid is a hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or preferably not more than 90% by weight, or preferably not more than 85% by weight of hydrogenated C 36 dimer acid and less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but greater than 5% by weight, more preferably greater than 10% by weight of C 54 hydrogenated trimer acid.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C8-C 30 fatty monocarboxylic acid is selected from caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C 10 ), undecanoic acid (C 11 ), lauric acid (C 12 ), tridecanoic acid (C 13 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C 15 ), palmitic acid (C 16 ), margaric acid (C 17 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), isostearic acid (C 18 ), nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ), arachidic acid (C 20 ), behenic acid (C 22 ) and lignoceric acid (C 24 ).

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture, which comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol, and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid comprising at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C 36 dioic acid and 5 - 25% by weight of hydrogenated C 54 tri - acid, in each case based on the total weight of the hydrogenated acids; and iii) isostearic acid.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the molar ratio of the reacting components i)-iii) is 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid, and 0.2 to 1.7 moles of fatty acid; or 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 moles of dimer acid, and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid; or 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 moles of dimer acid, and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester exhibits a combination of a weight-average molecular weight measured using GPC with linear polystyrene standards of >5000 Da and <15,000 Da, and a viscosity of the pure polymer at 25 °C of >100,000 mPa·s and <2,000,000 mPa·s.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester is characterized by a total degree of esterification of 28% to 57% by weight, wherein the degree of esterification with dimer acid is 20% to 30% by weight, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 8% to 27% by weight; a total degree of esterification of 33% to 48% by weight, wherein the degree of esterification with dimer acid is 20% to 28% by weight, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 13% to 20% by weight; a total degree of esterification of 24% to 74% by weight, wherein the degree of esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is 20% to 40% by weight, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 4% to 40% by weight; or a total degree of esterification of 28% to 57% by weight, wherein the degree of esterification with hydrogenated dimer acid is 20% to 30% by weight, and the degree of esterification with monobasic acid is 8% to 27% by weight.

14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile non-silicone oil H1 of component b) or the non-volatile non-silicone oil H2 of component 4) is independently selected from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 2 22 carboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 esters of alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester-containing mixture of component 1) is present in the anhydrous composition in an amount of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the total anhydrous composition.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax is selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, sunflower seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax and ozokerite; polyethylene wax, polymethylene wax, synthetic wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax or mixtures thereof.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein one or more waxes are present in an amount of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

18. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 for the preparation of a product for conditioning keratin materials, such as the skin and the lips, in particular the lips.

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