Dyeing method of tussah silk woven fabric and product

Abstract

The invention discloses a tussah silk woven fabric dyeing method and a product. The preparation method comprises the following steps: soaking the tussah silk woven fabric in a finishing liquid containing ganoderma lucidum spore powder, a finishing agent and a color fixing agent for twice soaking and twice rolling under the treatment of an ultrasonic technology, and finally washing and drying to obtain the dyed tussah silk woven fabric. The dyeing rate of the dyed tussah silk woven fabric is close to 97%, the color fastness to sunlight reaches grade 4-5, and the fabric is excellent in wrinkle recovery performance, has good wrinkle resistance and meets the use requirements of high-grade western-style clothes fabric.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile dyeing and finishing technology, and relates to a dyeing method and product for tussah silk woven fabrics. Background Technology

[0002] Tussah silk is one of my country's unique natural textile raw materials, possessing a distinctive jewel-like luster, natural luxury, and a smooth, comfortable feel. Tussah silk is soft and elastic to the touch, with good heat resistance; its strength only weakens at temperatures as high as 140℃. It also exhibits strong moisture resistance. In terms of insulation, strength, elongation, resistance to embrittlement, acid resistance, and alkali resistance, it surpasses mulberry silk in many properties, making it important in the textile industry and national defense. Furthermore, the weaving process of tussah silk fabrics involves multiple stages. During weaving, specially designed machines interweave the yarns to create textiles. Due to this unique production process, tussah silk fabrics may exhibit a texture different from conventional silk fabrics. This texture is sometimes described as slightly natural roughness, adding a unique charm to clothing, and thus it is used in suit fabrics.

[0003] CN116180468A describes the direct dyeing of degummed silk floss with Ganoderma lucidum spore powder suspension. However, tussah silk woven fabrics differ significantly from silk floss. Using this technology to dye tussah silk fabrics results in low dye uptake and poor color fastness. Furthermore, with the increasing demand for functional clothing fabrics, tussah silk woven fabrics should possess not only conventional dyeing properties but also excellent wrinkle resistance, antibacterial properties, and UV resistance.

[0004] Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a dyeing method and product for tussah silk woven fabrics that is simple in process, environmentally friendly, has excellent dyeing performance, good color fastness, and anti-wrinkle properties. Summary of the Invention

[0005] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention provides a dyeing method and product for tussah silk woven fabric. The dyed fabric obtained has excellent color fastness to sunlight and good wrinkle resistance, thus it can be used for suit fabrics.

[0006] The present invention adopts the following technical solution: A dyeing method and product for tussah silk woven fabric includes the following steps: under ultrasonic treatment, the tussah silk woven fabric is immersed twice and rubbed twice in a dyeing and finishing solution containing Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, finishing agent and color fixing agent, and finally washed and dried to obtain dyed tussah silk woven fabric.

[0007] In this invention, the Ganoderma lucidum spore powder is a broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder.

[0008] In this invention, the bath ratio of the padding process is 1:20-30, the rolling yield is 75-85%, the temperature is 85-95℃, the immersion time is 1-2 h, the ultrasonic treatment power is 500-700W, and the frequency is 30-50 KHz.

[0009] In this invention, the drying temperature of the dyed and finished fabric is 90-130℃ and the time is 2-5 min. Preferably, the drying temperature is 100-110℃ and the time is 2-3 min.

[0010] In this invention, under ultrasonic treatment, broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder is dissolved in dilute acetic acid for 0.5–2 h. Then, ammonia water is added to adjust the pH of the solution to 8–9, followed by the addition of a finishing agent and a fixing agent. Finally, citric acid is added to adjust the pH of the solution to 4–6, yielding a dyeing and finishing solution. Preferably, during ultrasonic treatment, the power is 400–600 W, the frequency is 20–40 kHz, and the temperature is 75–85°C.

[0011] In this invention, the ratio of broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder to dilute acetic acid is (3-5) g: 1 L; in the dyeing and finishing solution, the concentration of the finishing agent is 1-4 wt%, and the concentration of the fixing agent is 2-3 wt%, wherein the concentrations of the finishing agent and the fixing agent are the concentrations of the functional substances (solid solutes).

[0012] This invention discloses the application of the above-mentioned dyed tussah silk woven fabric in the preparation of outerwear.

[0013] With the emergence of the green economy concept, the environmental and health hazards of synthetic dyes have become increasingly apparent, prompting the search for environmentally friendly dyes and bringing natural dyes back into the public eye. Current technologies primarily utilize non-pathogenic microorganisms to produce pigments. These pigments can dye not only natural fibers such as cotton, linen, silk, and wool, but also synthetic fibers like nylon, and can be used for coloring cosmetics and food. Compared to animal and plant dyes, dyes produced through microbial fermentation not only yield abundant pigments but also produce less residue, aligning with the principles of green development. However, bacterial cultivation and fabric dyeing and finishing are two distinct technical fields, limiting the application of microbial dyeing in industrial production, with fewer manufacturers willing to dedicate specific microbial cultivation positions. This invention utilizes dilute acetic acid to soak broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, followed by ultrasonic treatment in the presence of finishing agents and fixing agents, combined with the porous structure of tussah silk, to successfully achieve a one-bath, one-step pad-dyeing and finishing process for tussah silk woven fabrics. The resulting tussah silk woven fabric not only exhibits high dye uptake and excellent color fastness but also good wrinkle resistance. Detailed Implementation

[0014] This invention involves immersing tussah silk woven fabric in a finishing solution containing Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, a finishing agent, and a color-fixing agent for two dips and two nips, followed by washing and drying to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric. Specifically, under ultrasonic treatment, broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder is dissolved in dilute acetic acid for 0.5–2 hours, ammonia is added to adjust the pH of the solution to 8–9, and then the finishing agent and color-fixing agent are added to adjust the pH to 4–5, thus obtaining the dyeing and finishing solution.

[0015] The technical solution of the present invention will be further illustrated below with reference to specific embodiments. Unless otherwise specified, all reagents, materials, instruments, etc. used in the following embodiments can be obtained commercially. The tussah silk woven fabric is a conventional tussah silk product with a specification of 54–57 g / m². 2 The broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder was obtained from Ruifeng Agriculture. After dyeing in the examples and comparative examples, the fabric was removed from the dyeing and finishing solution, washed with water, and dried to obtain Ganoderma lucidum spore powder-dyed and finished fabric. The ultrasonic treatment involved below uses a power of 500 W and a frequency of 40 kHz.

[0016] The following tests were conducted on the tussah silk woven fabrics dyed and finished using the above processing methods: Staining rate determination: Take the Ganoderma lucidum spore powder staining solution and place it in a 250 mL volumetric flask. Dilute to the mark, then take 25 mL of the solution and dilute to the mark in a 100 mL volumetric flask. Measure the optical density E on a UV-Vis spectrophotometer. 原 After staining, wash twice with 100 mL of distilled water, collecting all washings and residual liquid. Combine the two solutions in a 250 mL volumetric flask and dilute to the mark. Take 25 mL of the solution and add it to a 100 mL volumetric flask, diluting to the mark. Measure the optical density E on a spectrophotometer. 残 Substitute the values ​​into the following formula to calculate the dyeing rate.

[0017]

[0018] K / S value determination: The dried fabric sample is tested for K / S value using a spectrophotometer.

[0019] Colorfastness test: The colorfastness of a fabric refers to its resistance to changes in the external environment during subsequent processing after dyeing, and can be used as a key indicator of dyeing quality. The colorfastness test in this invention uses conventional techniques and is conducted according to GB / T8427-2008.

[0020] Wrinkle resistance test: According to GB / T3819-1997, the convex method is used to test the rapid and slow elastic recovery angles of the fabric in the warp and weft directions. The (warp + weft) rapid elastic recovery angle and (warp + weft) slow elastic recovery angle characterize the wrinkle resistance recovery of the fabric. A larger wrinkle recovery angle indicates better wrinkle resistance. Each fabric sample is tested ten times and the average value is taken.

[0021] Example 1 (1) After washing and drying 3.5 g of broken Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, add it to 1 L of dilute acetic acid (1.5 wt%), sonicate it at 80℃ for 1 h, cool it naturally to room temperature, add ammonia (28 wt%), adjust the pH of the solution to 9, add SRD787 (herst) and TF-234A, disperse for 10 minutes, add citric acid to adjust the pH of the solution to 5, and obtain the dyeing and finishing solution. The crosslinking agent concentration is 3 wt%, the fixing agent concentration is 2 wt%, based on their respective solid contents; (2) Under ultrasonic treatment, the tussah silk woven fabric is immersed in Ganoderma lucidum spore powder dyeing and finishing solution at a temperature of 95℃ for two dips and two nips (liquor ratio 1:30, nips 80%, immersion time 45 min), then taken out and washed with water and dried at 110℃ for 3 min to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric.

[0022] The test results are as follows: the dyeing percentage of the dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric is 96.98%, the K / S value is 6.26, the light fastness is grade 4-5, the dry elastic (warp + weft) rapid elastic recovery angle is 130°, and the dry elastic (warp + weft) slow elastic recovery angle is 170°.

[0023] Example 2 (1) After washing and drying 3.5 g of broken Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, add it to 1 L of dilute acetic acid (1.5 wt%), sonicate it at 80℃ for 1 h, cool it naturally to room temperature, add ammonia (28 wt%), adjust the pH of the solution to 9, add SRD787 (herst) and TF-234A, disperse for 10 minutes, add citric acid to adjust the pH of the solution to 5.5, and obtain the dyeing and finishing solution with a crosslinking agent concentration of 2.5 wt% and a fixing agent concentration of 2.5 wt%, based on their respective solid contents; (2) Under ultrasonic treatment, the tussah silk woven fabric is immersed in Ganoderma lucidum spore powder dyeing and finishing solution at a temperature of 95℃, and then dipped and rubbed twice (liquor ratio 1:30, rubbing rate 80%, immersion time 50 min). Then it is taken out, washed with water, and dried at 110℃ for 3 min to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric.

[0024] Example 3 (1) After washing and drying 4 g of broken Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, add it to 1 L of dilute acetic acid (1.5 wt%), sonicate it at 80℃ for 1 h, cool it naturally to room temperature, add ammonia (28 wt%), adjust the pH of the solution to 8.5, add SRD787 (herst) and TF-234A, disperse for 15 minutes, add citric acid to adjust the pH of the solution to 5, and obtain the dyeing and finishing solution. The crosslinking agent concentration is 3 wt%, the fixing agent concentration is 2.5 wt%, based on their respective solid contents; (2) Under ultrasonic treatment, the tussah silk woven fabric is immersed in Ganoderma lucidum spore powder dyeing and finishing solution at a temperature of 95℃, and then dipped and rubbed twice (liquor ratio 1:30, rubbing rate 80%, immersion time 40 min). Then it is taken out, washed with water, and dried at 110℃ for 3 min to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric.

[0025] Comparative Example 1 Based on Example 1, TF-234A is omitted, and everything else remains the same, resulting in dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric.

[0026] Comparative Example 2 Based on Example 1, the ultrasonic treatment in step (2) was replaced with conventional mechanical vibration (200 rpm), and the rest remained the same, to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric.

[0027] The light fastness of the dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabrics prepared by the above methods is shown in Table 1.

[0028] Table 1. Light fastness of dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabrics in the examples and comparative examples.

[0029] Comparative Example 3 Based on Example 1, the ultrasonic treatment in step (2) was omitted to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric; the dyeing rate of the fabric obtained by omitting the ultrasonic treatment was 85.79%.

[0030] Comparative Example 4 Referring to Example 1, hydrochloric acid was used to replace the citric acid solution system at pH 5, while the rest remained the same, to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric.

[0031] This comparative example uses hydrochloric acid as a commonly used regulator in existing technologies, and the dry elastic (warp + weft) rapid elastic recovery angle of the dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric is 119°.

[0032] Comparative Example 5 Referring to the method in Example 1 of CN116180468A, the color fastness of dyed tussah silk products to sunlight is grade 2-3.

[0033] Comparative Example 6 Based on Example 1, TF-234A was replaced with praseodymium chloride mordant, while the rest remained the same, to obtain a dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric with a dry elastic (warp + weft) rapid elastic recovery angle of 121°.

[0034] Comparison Example Commercially available dyed tussah silk products (labeled as plant-dyed) should have a color fastness of 3-4, 3, and 3 respectively when purchased in color, red, and blue.

[0035] Using pigments produced by microbial fermentation to dye textiles is one of the important methods of ecological dyeing. Water-soluble pigments, also known as extracellular pigments, can penetrate the culture medium, giving it a specific color. Microbial pigments are produced mainly in two ways: one is through secretions during microbial growth, and the other is through transformation using a component in the culture medium as a substrate. For the latter, specific substances need to be added to the culture medium to promote the production of the required pigments by microorganisms. The specific bacterial culture requirements limit its practical application. Furthermore, the types of microbial dyes are currently relatively limited, the color spectrum is not complete, and most microbial dyes have poor light stability, resulting in fabrics with poor lightfastness, and some even have poor wash fastness.

[0036] This invention involves washing and drying broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, then dissolving it in dilute acetic acid under ultrasonic treatment. Ammonia is then added to adjust the pH of the solution to 8-9. Finishing agents and fixing agents are added to adjust the pH, resulting in a Ganoderma lucidum spore powder dyeing and finishing solution. Tussah silk woven fabric is then immersed twice and rubbed in the solution under ultrasonic treatment. Finally, it is washed and dried to obtain dyed and finished tussah silk woven fabric. This dyed tussah silk woven fabric exhibits excellent dye uptake and light fastness, as well as good wrinkle resistance, and can be used in the preparation of functional tussah silk suits and other outerwear.

Claims

1. A dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric, characterized in that, The process includes the following steps: under ultrasonic treatment, the tussah silk woven fabric is immersed twice and rubbed twice in a finishing solution containing Ganoderma lucidum spore powder, finishing agent and color fixing agent, and finally washed and dried to complete the dyeing of the tussah silk woven fabric and obtain dyed tussah silk woven fabric.

2. The dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The finishing solution does not contain mordants.

3. The dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, During the two-dip and two-roll process, the liquor ratio is 1:20-30, the rolling liquid ratio is 75-85%, the temperature is 85-95℃, the immersion time is 1-2 h, the ultrasonic treatment power is 500-700W, and the frequency is 30-50 KHz.

4. The dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The drying temperature is 90–130℃, and the time is 2–5 min.

5. The dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, Ganoderma lucidum spore powder is broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder.

6. The dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, Under ultrasonic treatment, the broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder is dissolved in dilute acetic acid for 0.5-2 h, then ammonia water is added to adjust the pH of the solution to 8-9, then finishing agent and color fixing agent are added, and finally citric acid is added to adjust the pH of the solution system to 4-6 to obtain the dyeing and finishing solution.

7. The dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that, During ultrasonic treatment, the power is 400–600 W, the frequency is 20–40 KHz, and the temperature is 75–85℃.

8. The dyeing method for tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that, The ratio of broken-cell wall Ganoderma lucidum spore powder to dilute acetic acid is 3-5 g: 1 L; in the dyeing and finishing solution, the concentration of the finishing agent is 1-4 wt%, and the concentration of the fixing agent is 2-3 wt%.

9. The product prepared by the dyeing method of tussah silk woven fabric according to claim 1.

10. The use of the product of claim 9 in the textile or related fields.

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