Eye cosmetic and method for manufacturing the same
A room-temperature mixed eye cosmetic formulation with volatile oils and clay minerals addresses manufacturing inefficiencies and clumping issues, offering curl, volume, and flexibility for mascara, eyeliner, and eyeshadow applications.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2022192882
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-12-14
- Filing Date
- 2022-12-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-08-25
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-12-01
AI Technical Summary
Conventional oil-based eye cosmetics require heating and cooling processes for manufacturing, leading to environmental burden and potential clumping or unnatural finishes due to high viscosity, while multi-purpose cosmetics like mascara, eyeliner, and eyeshadow are sought for convenience and natural appearance.
A solid (gel-like) eye cosmetic formulation using volatile oils, organically modified clay minerals, nonionic surfactants, polar oils, film-forming agents, and aqueous solvents, mixed at room temperature, achieving specific shear and complex viscosities for stability and usability.
The cosmetic provides sufficient curl and volume without clumping, suitable for mascara, and flexibility for eyeliner or eyeshadow, reducing environmental impact by eliminating heating and cooling steps in production.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] This invention relates to a solid (gel-like) eye cosmetic that can be used not only as mascara but also as eyeliner and eyeshadow, and to a method for producing the same. [Background technology]
[0002] Mascara is an eye cosmetic that can create a striking look around the eyes by making the eyelashes thicker, longer, and curled. Known formulations of mascara include oil-in-water type (Patent Document 1), water-in-oil type (Patent Document 2), and oil-based type (Patent Document 3), but among these, the oil-based type is considered to have superior curling effect and durability.
[0003] However, oil-based mascaras generally tend to adhere excessively thickly and unevenly to the eyelashes due to their high viscosity, which can lead to clumping or the lashes sticking together, resulting in an unnatural finish. While oil-based mascaras may be sufficient to satisfy users who want to make their eyelashes appear thicker, in recent years, there has been a preference for mascaras that provide a strong curl while also giving each individual lash a moderate and even volume for a natural finish.
[0004] On the other hand, eyeliner and eyeshadow are widely used as eye cosmetics, similar to mascara. Eyeliner is an eye cosmetic that enhances the impression of the eyes by highlighting the outline of the pupil and making the eyes appear larger when applied to the lash line. Eyeshadow is an eye cosmetic that creates shadows around the eyes, especially on the eyelids, which has the effect of making the entire face appear more three-dimensional. Since mascara, eyeliner, and eyeshadow are applied to adjacent areas such as the eyelashes and the area around the eyes, there is a demand for products that can be used for all purposes in one item, from the standpoint of convenience and portability.
[0005] In order to meet these demands, research is underway on cosmetics that can be used not only as mascara but also as eyeliner and eyeshadow. For example, cosmetics containing a specific film-forming resin, solid hydrocarbon oil, dextrin fatty acid ester, powder and volatile oil (Patent Document 4), and compositions containing a silicone-based film-forming agent and a volatile silicone-based oil with a hardness of 30 to 100 (Patent Document 5) have been proposed.
[0006] However, conventional oil-based eye cosmetics, such as those described in Patent Documents 3-5, are manufactured by solidifying the oil phase with solid oils such as microcrystalline wax or polymeric gelling agents such as dextrin fatty acid esters. Therefore, heating and dissolving are required when adding these to the oil phase, and cooling and solidification are required when filling and molding the product into containers, resulting in a high environmental burden during manufacturing. In addition, because solid oils are essential, clumping may occur, or eyelashes may stick together, resulting in an unnatural finish. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2000-119140 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 9-124444 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2006-306829 [Patent Document 4] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2011-207865 [Patent Document 5] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2017-218413 [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0008] This invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and aims to provide a solid (gel-like) eye cosmetic and a method for producing the same that can be manufactured at room temperature without heating or cooling, and that can achieve excellent stability and usability whether used as mascara, eyeliner, or eyeshadow. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] The present inventors conducted diligent research to solve the above problems and found that eye cosmetics can be manufactured at room temperature without heating or cooling by using volatile oils, organically modified clay minerals, nonionic surfactants, specific polar oils, film-forming agents, and aqueous solvents. Furthermore, they discovered that such eye cosmetics that satisfy specific shear viscosity and complex viscosity ratios are stable and exhibit excellent usability whether used exclusively as mascara or as a cosmetic product for use with eyeliner and eyeshadow. This led to the completion of the present invention.
[0010] In other words, the present invention is (A) Volatile oils, (B) Organically modified clay minerals, (C) Nonionic surfactant, (D) A polar oil with an IOB of 0.16 or higher that is liquid or semi-solid at room temperature. (E) coating agent, and (F) Aqueous solvent Includes, 30℃, shear rate 0.1s -1 The gist of this invention is an eye cosmetic having a shear viscosity of 2000 Pa·s or less and a complex viscosity of 15 Pa·s or more when a sinusoidal strain is applied at 60°C with a swing angle of 5% and a frequency of 1 Hz.
[0011] Furthermore, the present invention also includes a method for producing the above-mentioned eye cosmetic, wherein the mixing of components (A) to (F) is carried out at room temperature. [Effects of the Invention]
[0012] The eye makeup cosmetic according to the present invention, with the above configuration, when used as mascara, can impart a sufficient curling effect and volume to the eyelashes, is unlikely to form clumps, and can achieve a finished look where the eyelashes are firmly separated. Also, while having excellent stability, it is soft with a low hardness and can thus be used as an eyeliner or eyeshadow. When used as an eyeliner or eyeshadow, it can flexibly follow the movement of the eyelid and is also excellent in terms of usability. Furthermore, since the eye makeup cosmetic according to the present invention does not require blending of waxes or polymer gelling agents that need to be heated and dissolved when mixed into the oil phase, it can be manufactured at room temperature, and the environmental load associated with manufacturing can be significantly reduced.
Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention
[0013] The eye makeup cosmetic of the present invention contains (A) a volatile oil component, (B) an organically modified clay mineral, (C) a nonionic surfactant, (D) a polar oil component having an IOB of 0.16 or more that is liquid or semi-solid at room temperature, (E) a film-forming agent, and (F) an aqueous solvent, and satisfies specific shear viscosities and complex viscosities. This will be described in detail below. In the following, polyoxyethylene may be abbreviated as "POE", polyethylene glycol as "PEG", and polypropylene glycol as "PPG".
[0014] <(A) Volatile Oil Component> (A) The volatile oil component refers to an oil component having volatility at room temperature (25°C), and volatile silicone oils, volatile hydrocarbon oils, etc. are preferably used. Examples of the volatile silicone oil include linear dimethylpolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (1 cs), dimethylpolysiloxane (1.5 cs), dimethylpolysiloxane (2 cs); branched siloxanes such as methyltrimethicone, tris(trimethylsilyl)methylsilane, tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)silane; and cyclic dimethylsiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
[0015] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include paraffinic hydrocarbon oils such as n-decane, n-undecane, and n-dodecane; isoparaffinic hydrocarbon oils such as isodecane, isododecane, and hydrogenated polyisobutene; and cyclic paraffinic hydrocarbon oils such as cyclodecane and cyclododecane. Of these, hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms are preferred, hydrocarbon oils having 10 to 16 carbon atoms are more preferred, and hydrocarbon oils having 12 carbon atoms are even more preferred.
[0016] (A) One or more types of volatile oils may be used, and their total content is preferably 35.0% by mass or more, more preferably 40.0% by mass or more, even more preferably 50.0% by mass or more, and also preferably 70.0% by mass or less, more preferably 65.0% by mass or less, and even more preferably 60.0% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the eye cosmetic. Therefore, the blending range can be 35.0% by mass to 70.0% by mass, 40.0% by mass to 65.0% by mass, etc.
[0017] <(B) Organically modified clay minerals> (B) The organically modified clay mineral is a type of colloidal hydrated aluminum silicate having a three-layer structure, and can be obtained by modifying a clay mineral represented by the following general formula (1) with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant. (X,Y) 2―3 (Si,Al)4O 10 (OH)2Z 1 / 3 nH2O (1) (However, X=Al,Fe(III),Mn(III),Cr(III), Y=Mg,Fe(II),Ni,Zn,Li, Z=K,Na,Ca)
[0018] Specifically, it is obtained by treating clay minerals such as natural or synthetic (in this case, those in which the (OH) group in the formula is substituted with fluorine) montmorillonite group (commercial products include Beegum, Kunipia, Laponite, etc.) and synthetic mica known as sodium silicic mica or sodium or lithium teniolite (commercial products include daimonite: Topy Industries Co., Ltd., etc.) with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant.
[0019] The quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant used here is represented by the following general formula (2). [ka] (In the formula, R 1 R is an alkyl group or benzyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. 2 R is a methyl group or an alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. 3 and R 4 (where X represents an alkyl group or hydroxyalkyl group with 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and X represents a halogen atom or methyl sulfate residue.)
[0020] Examples of such quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactants include dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, arachilltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyldimethylethylammonium chloride, cetyldimethylethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylethylammonium chloride, arachilldimethylethylammonium chloride, behenyldimethylethylammonium chloride, myristyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, cetyldiethylmethylammonium chloride Examples include ammonium chloride, stearyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, arachidyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, behenyldiethylmethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylmyristylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylcetylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylbehenylammonium chloride, benzylmethylethylcetylammonium chloride, benzylmethylethylstearylammonium chloride, dibehenyldihydroxyethylammonium chloride, and corresponding bromides, as well as dipalmitylpropylethylammonium methyl sulfate. In carrying out the present invention, one or more of these can be arbitrarily selected.
[0021] (B) Representative organically modified clay minerals include dimethyldistearylammonium hectorite (disteardimonium hectorite), dimethylalkylammonium hectorite, benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyldimethylammonium chloride. Among these, dimethyldistearylammonium hectorite is particularly preferred. As commercially available products, Benton 27 (benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.) and Benton 38 (distearyldimethylammonium chloride treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.) are preferred.
[0022] (B) One or more types of organically modified clay minerals may be used, and their total content is preferably 4.0% by mass or more, more preferably 6.0% by mass or more, and more preferably 9.0% by mass or less, and more preferably 7.0% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the eye cosmetic. Therefore, the blending range can be 4.0% by mass to 9.0% by mass, 6.0% by mass to 7.0% by mass, etc.
[0023] <(C) Nonionic surfactant> (C) The nonionic surfactant is preferably a lipophilic nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 8 or less, more preferably an HLB of 0.5 to 7. (C) Examples of nonionic surfactants include, Glycerin fatty acid esters such as glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl sesquiisostearate, glyceryl dioleate, and glyceryl sesquioleate; Polyglycerin fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl triisostearate, decaglyceryl pentaisostearate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, and diglyceryl dioleate; Sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, and sorbitan sesquioleate; Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and its derivatives (e.g., PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate); High molecular weight lipophilic surfactants such as dipolyhydroxystearate esters, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polyether-based silicones such as cetyl polyether-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones (e.g., PEG-10 dimethicone), and cross-linked polyether-modified silicones; Examples include polyglycerin-based silicones such as polyglycerin-modified silicones (e.g., bisbutyldimethicone polyglyceryl-3) and alkyl-comodified polyglycerin-modified silicones.
[0024] (C) One or more nonionic surfactants may be used, and their total content is preferably 1.0% by mass or more, more preferably 2.0% by mass or more, preferably 5.0% by mass or less, and even more preferably 4.0% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the eye cosmetic. Therefore, the blending range can be 1.0% by mass to 5.0% by mass, 2.0% by mass to 4.0% by mass, etc.
[0025] <(D) Polar oils> (D) Polar oil refers to polar oil that is liquid or semi-solid at room temperature (25°C) and has an IOB of 0.16 or higher, preferably 0.20 or higher, and more preferably 0.30 or higher. If the IOB is 0.16 or higher, (B) excellent gelling ability can be obtained by enhancing the interaction between organic modified clay minerals and efficiently forming a network. There is no particular upper limit to the IOB, but from the viewpoint of compatibility with (A) volatile oil, it is preferably 1.0 or lower, more preferably 0.6 or lower.
[0026] In this invention, "liquid or semi-solid" means a substance that appears to be a liquid, or a substance that is not a liquid but has fluidity and easily changes shape due to gravity. Generally, this refers to oils with a melting point of 55°C or lower, preferably 50°C or lower. Because it is in a liquid or semi-solid state, there is no need to heat and dissolve it when mixing it with other oily components.
[0027] Furthermore, in this invention, "IOB" is an abbreviation for Inorganic / Organic Balance, which is a value representing the ratio of inorganic value to organic value, and serves as an indicator of the degree of polarity of an organic compound. Specifically, the IOB value is expressed as IOB value = inorganic value / organic value. For each of the "inorganic value" and "organic value," for example, an "organic value" of 20 for one carbon atom in a molecule and an "inorganic value" of 100 for one hydroxyl group are set according to various atoms or functional groups, and the IOB value of an organic compound can be calculated by summing the "inorganic value" and "organic value" of all atoms and functional groups in the organic compound (see, for example, Yoshio Koda, "Organic Concept Diagram - Fundamentals and Applications -", pp. 11-17, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).
[0028] Examples of polar oils (D) that satisfy these conditions include tetra(behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethylhexanoic acid) pentaerythrityl (IOB=0.35), hexahydroxystearate dipentaerythrityl (IOB=0.32), triisostearate glyceryl (IOB=0.26), pentaisostearate dipentaerythrityl (IOB=0.24), tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl (IOB=0.16), triisostearate polyglyceryl-2 (IOB=0.26), hexa(hydroxystearate / ethylhexanoic acid) Examples include dipentaerythrityl thearic acid / rosinic acid (IOB=0.30), dipentaerythrityl hexa(hydroxystearate / isostearate) (IOB=0.22), bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (IOB=0.35), diisostearyl malate (IOB=0.28), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (IOB=0.28), triethylhexanoin (IOB=0.35), pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (IOB=0.35), and PPG-3 dipivalate (IOB=0.52). In particular, oils that are semi-solid at room temperature, such as tetra(behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethylhexanoic acid) pentaerythrityl and hexahydroxystearate dipentaerythrityl, are preferred.
[0029] (D) One or more polar oils may be used, and their total content is preferably 3.0% by mass or more, more preferably 5.0% by mass or more, and preferably 10.0% by mass or less, and more preferably 9.0% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the eye cosmetic. Therefore, the blending range can be 3.0% by mass to 10.0% by mass, 5.0% by mass to 9.0% by mass, etc.
[0030] <(E) Coating agent> (E) The film-forming agent is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, specifically, PVP-based film-forming agents such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, PVP / eicosene copolymer, PVP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylate copolymer, PVP / hexadecene copolymer, PVP / VA copolymer, PVP / vinyl acetate / itaconic acid copolymer, styrene / PVP copolymer; ethyl acrylate / acrylamide / acrylic acid copolymer, ethyl acrylate / butyl acrylate copolymer, ethyl acrylate / ethyl methacrylate copolymer, ethyl acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer, octyl acrylate / vinyl acetate copolymer, octyl acrylate / styrene copolymer, butyl acrylate / vinyl acetate copolymer, butyl acrylate / hydroxymethacrylate copolymer, butyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer Examples include acrylic acid-based coating agents such as polymers, methoxyethyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate / butyl acrylate copolymer, lauryl acrylate / vinyl acetate copolymer, polyethyl acrylate, polybutyl acrylate, and polystyrene acrylic acid resin; vinyl acetate-based coating agents such as polyvinyl acetate; methacrylic acid-based coating agents such as polymethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate / butyl acrylate / octylic acid acrylate, and vinylpyrrolidone diethyl sulfate / N,N'-dimethylaminomethacrylic acid copolymer; vinyl methyl ether-based coating agents such as vinyl methyl ether / ethyl maleate copolymer and vinyl methyl ether / butyl maleate copolymer; styrene-based coating agents such as styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer; alkyd resin-based coating agents such as cyclohexane-based alkyd resin; and silicone resin-based coating agents such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, siliconeized pullulan, and (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymer.
[0031] Among these, trimethylsiloxysilicate and siliconeized pullulan, which are commercially available as raw materials dissolved in hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils, are preferred. In particular, trimethylsiloxysilicate, (trimethylsiloxysilicate / dimethiconol) crosspolymer, and tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylpropylcarbamate pullulan, which have a weight-average molecular weight (polystyrene equivalent value by gel permeation chromatography (GPC)) of 10,000 or more, are preferred.
[0032] (E) One or more types of film-forming agents may be used, and their total content is preferably 1.5% by mass or more, more preferably 3.0% by mass or more, and more preferably 30.0% by mass or less, and more preferably 20.0% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the eye cosmetic. Therefore, the blending range can be 1.5% by mass to 30.0% by mass, 3.0% by mass to 20.0% by mass, etc.
[0033] <(F) Aqueous solvent> (F) The aqueous solvent is not particularly limited as long as it is an aqueous solvent used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, and can include water, as well as lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropyl alcohol, and butanol, and polar solvents such as propylene carbonate. Water, propylene carbonate, and ethanol are particularly preferred.
[0034] (F) One or more aqueous solvents may be used, and their total content is preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1.0% by mass or more, and more preferably 3.0% by mass or less, and more preferably 2.5% by mass or less, based on the total amount of the eye cosmetic. Therefore, the blending range can be 0.5% to 3.0% by mass, 1.0% to 2.5% by mass, etc.
[0035] <Optional ingredients> In addition to the components (A) to (F) above, the eye cosmetic of the present invention may contain other components commonly used in cosmetics, as long as they do not interfere with the effects of the present invention. For example, waxes, polymer gelling agents, powders, fragrances, colorants, pigments, etc., may be added as needed. However, when adding waxes, polymer gelling agents, or powders, the following points should be noted.
[0036] <Wax or polymeric gelling agent> The eye cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain waxes or polymeric gelling agents (for example, cocoa butter, coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, dextrin palmitate, etc.) as long as they do not interfere with the effects of the present invention. However, since high-melting-point waxes or polymeric gelling agents require heating and cooling during manufacturing, it is preferable not to include those with a melting point of 40°C or higher. Furthermore, if the content of waxes or polymeric gelling agents is high, it may become difficult to achieve the shear viscosity and complex viscosity ratio described later, and the hardness of the cosmetic composition may increase, causing clumping or making it difficult to obtain a separating effect. Therefore, it is preferable to limit the total content to 0.1% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.05% by mass or less, of the total amount of the eye cosmetic composition.
[0037] <Powder> The eye cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain powder, provided that it does not interfere with the effects of the present invention. However, if the powder content is too high, the hardness of the cosmetic composition will increase, causing clumping and making it difficult to achieve a separating effect, thus impairing its usability. Therefore, it is preferable to limit the total powder content to 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 15% by mass or less, of the total amount of the eye cosmetic composition. The powder is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics. For example, inorganic powders (such as talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, red mica, biotite, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate salts, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluoroapatite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, boron nitride, etc.), organic powders (such as polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, copolymer resin powder of styrene and acrylic acid, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, cellulose powder, etc.), inorganic white pigments (such as zinc oxide, etc.), inorganic red pigments (such as iron titanate, etc.); inorganic purple pigments (such as manganese violet, cobalt violet, etc.), inorganic green pigments (such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, etc.), inorganic blue pigments (such as ultramarine, dark blue, etc.), pearl pigments (such as titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated talc, colored titanium oxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, etc.); metal powder pigments (such as aluminum powder, copper powder, etc.), organic pigments such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lake (such as Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 228, Red No. 405, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401, Blue No. 404, Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 227, Red No.
[0038] <Shear viscosity> The eye cosmetics of the present invention have a shear rate of 0.1 s at 30 °C -1The shear viscosity of the cosmetic composition is 2000 Pa·s or less, more preferably 1500 Pa·s or less, and even more preferably 1000 Pa·s or less. The lower limit of the shear viscosity under these conditions is not particularly limited, but is preferably 500 Pa·s or more, more preferably 700 Pa·s or more. (30°C, shear rate 0.1s) -1 If the shear viscosity is 2000 Pa·s or less, the adhesion of the cosmetic to the applicator will be good, making it easier to apply the cosmetic to the eyelashes.
[0039] Furthermore, the eye cosmetic composition of the present invention is used at 30°C and a shear rate of 100 s. -1 The shear viscosity of the cosmetic composition is preferably 5.0 Pa·s or less, more preferably 4.0 Pa·s or less, and even more preferably 3.0 Pa·s or less. The lower limit of the shear viscosity under these conditions is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1.0 Pa·s or more, more preferably 1.5 Pa·s or more. (30°C, shear rate 100s) -1 A shear viscosity of 5.0 Pa·s or less is preferable because it allows for smooth application to the eyelashes. Furthermore, this smoothness is also present when applied to the skin, providing a good feel when used as eyeshadow or eyeliner.
[0040] The shear viscosity in this invention was measured using a rheometer equipped with a cone plate jig (φ25 mm, θ=2 rad) (for example, an Antonpaar MCR-301 rheometer).
[0041] <Complex viscosity> The eye cosmetic composition of the present invention has a complex viscosity of 15 Pa·s or more, preferably 25 Pa·s or more, more preferably 45 Pa·s or more, and even more preferably 70 Pa·s or more, when subjected to sinusoidal strain at 60°C with an amplitude of 5% and a frequency of 1 Hz. The upper limit of the complex viscosity under these conditions is not particularly limited, but is preferably 500 Pa·s or less, and more preferably 200 Pa·s or less. If the complex viscosity at 60°C is 15 Pa·s or more, high stability can be expected, as the dispersed colorants, coating agents, and liquid oils will not separate from the cosmetic composition even in high-temperature environments. The temperature dependence of complex viscosity in the low-strain region is considered a suitable indicator for evaluating the temperature stability of cosmetics stored in a static state.
[0042] <Manufacturing method> Conventional eye cosmetics are manufactured by solidifying the oil phase with solid oils such as waxes or high-molecular-weight gelling agents such as dextrin palmitate. Therefore, adding these to the oil phase requires heating and dissolving, and then further cooling and solidification is required when filling and molding the product into containers. On the other hand, the eye cosmetic composition of the present invention does not require the incorporation of waxes or polymer gelling agents and contains components (A) to (F) that can be mixed without the need for heating or dissolution. Therefore, the eye cosmetic composition of the present invention can be mixed at room temperature, and since there is no need to consume energy for heating or cooling, the environmental burden associated with manufacturing can be kept to a minimum.
[0043] The method for producing the eye cosmetic of the present invention preferably involves the following steps. (1) Mix (A) volatile oil, (B) organically modified clay mineral, (C) nonionic surfactant, and (E) film-forming agent. (2) Mix the mixture obtained in (1) with (D) polar oil. (3) Mix the mixture obtained in (2) with (F) aqueous solvent. By adding (D) polar oils after other oily components according to the procedure described above, (B) organically modified clay minerals can be well dispersed even at room temperature.
[0044] <Application> The eye cosmetics of the present invention can be, in particular, mascara-only cosmetics, mascara and eyeliner-only cosmetics, mascara and eyeshadow-only cosmetics, or mascara, eyeliner, and eyeshadow-only cosmetics. However, it is also possible to use it in a form that is not used as mascara, for example, as eyeliner-only cosmetics, eyeshadow-only cosmetics, or eyeliner and eyeshadow-only cosmetics. [Examples]
[0045] The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the amount of each component is expressed as a mass % of the system in which it is incorporated. Before describing each example in detail, the evaluation method used will be explained.
[0046] (1) Shear viscosity Prepared eye cosmetic at 30°C, shear rate 0.1s -1 and 100s -1 The shear viscosity was measured using an Anton Paar MCR301 stress-controlled rheometer (φ25mm, θ=2rad cone plate).
[0047] (2) Complex viscosity The complex viscosity of the prepared eye cosmetic was measured using an Anton Paar MCR301 stress-controlled rheometer (φ25mm, θ=2rad cone plate) by simply heating the mixture from 20°C to 70°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min, applying a sinusoidal strain with a amplitude of 5% and a frequency of 1Hz, and measuring the value at 60°C.
[0048] (3) Stability over time The prepared eye cosmetic was stored at 50°C for 4 weeks, and the appearance of oil separation was checked after storage. [Evaluation Criteria] A: No oil separation was observed. B: A slight oily surface was observed. C: Significant oil separation occurred, resulting in synergy.
[0049] (4) Usability Ten cosmetic evaluation panel members applied the eye cosmetics of the example and comparative examples to their eyelashes and evaluated the curl effect, separation, and volume on a 5-point scale according to the following criteria. The average score of all panel members was then determined according to the following 3-point judgment criteria. (Evaluation Criteria) Evaluation result: Score Very good: 5 points Good: 4 points Average: 3 points Slightly poor: 2 points Defective: 1 point (Judgment criteria) Judgment: Average score A: 4 or higher B: 3 or more but less than 4 C: Less than 3
[0050] <Examples 1-11 and Comparative Examples 1-6> Eye cosmetics having the compositions listed in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared and evaluated according to the evaluation method described above.
[0051] [Table 1]
[0052] [Table 2]
[0053] As shown in Tables 1 and 2 above, a mixture containing (A) a volatile oil, (B) an organically modified clay mineral, (C) a nonionic surfactant, (D) a polar oil with an IOB of 0.16 or higher that is liquid or semi-solid at room temperature, (E) a coating agent, and (F) an aqueous solvent, and satisfying sufficient shear viscosity and complex viscosity, exhibited excellent stability over time and usability (Examples 1-11). Although not shown in the table, when these eye cosmetics were applied to the eyelids as eyeshadow or eyeliner, they followed the eyelid movements smoothly and demonstrated good usability. On the other hand, in the cases where (C) nonionic surfactants were not included (Comparative Example 1), (B) the amount of organically modified clay minerals and (D) polar oils was insufficient (Comparative Example 5), and (A) volatile oils were low and waxes or polymer gelling agents were high (Comparative Example 6), gelation occurred, but either the long-term stability or usability was inferior. Furthermore, in the cases where (F) aqueous solvents were not included (Comparative Example 2), and (D) polar oils were not included (Comparative Examples 3 and 4), the cosmetic composition did not gel sufficiently. For this reason, evaluation of each item was not performed for Comparative Examples 2 to 4.
[0054] The following are examples of formulations for the eye cosmetic of the present invention. It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited in any way by these formulation examples, but is specified by the claims. All amounts are expressed as mass % of the total amount of cosmetic.
[0055] Prescription Example 1: Eyeliner (Ingredient name) Compounding amount (mass%) (1) Dimethicone 38.0 (2) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 8.0 (3) Disteardimonium hectorite 7.0 (4) PEG-10 Dimethicone 3.0 (5) Hydrophobized pigment 7.0 (6) Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 9.0 (7) Pullulan tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylpropylcarbamate isododecane solution (30%) 14.9 (8) Silica 10.0 (9) 1,3-Butylene glycol 1.5 (10) Water 1.5 (11) Tocopherol 0.05 (12) BHT 0.05
[0056] Prescription Example 2: Eyeshadow (Ingredient name) Compounding amount (mass%) (1) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 46.0 (2) Disteardimonium hectorite 7.0 (3) Bis-butyl dimethicone polyglyceryl-3 3.0 (4) Hydrophobic treated pearl agent 7.0 (5) Dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate 9.0 (6) Pullulan tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylpropylcarbamate isododecane solution (30%) 14.9 (7) Silica 10.0 (8) 1,3-Butylene glycol 1.5 (9)Wednesday 1.5 (10) Tocopherol 0.05 (11) BHT 0.05
Claims
1. For the total amount of eye cosmetic (A) Volatile oil content: 35.0% to 70.0% by mass, (B) Organically modified clay minerals in an amount of 4.0% to 9.0% by mass, (C) Nonionic surfactant in an amount of 1.0% to 5.0% by mass, (D) Polar oil content of 3.0% to 10.0% by mass, (E) A coating agent in an amount of 1.5% to 30.0% by mass, and (F) 0.5% to 3.0% by mass of aqueous solvent Including, (A) Component is selected from volatile silicone oil or volatile hydrocarbon oil that is volatile at room temperature (25°C), (B) Component is selected from dimethyldistearylammonium hectorite, dimethylalkylammonium hectorite, benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyldimethylammonium chloride. (C) Component is selected from lipophilic nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 0.5 to 7. (D) Selected from polar oils whose component is liquid or semi-solid at room temperature, has an IOB of 0.16 or higher, and has a melting point of 55°C or lower. (E) Component is selected from PVP-based coating agents, acrylic acid-based coating agents, vinyl acetate-based coating agents, methacrylic acid-based coating agents, vinyl methyl ether-based coating agents, styrene-based coating agents, alkyd resin-based coating agents, and silicone resin-based coating agents. (F) The component is selected from water, ethanol, propanol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, and propylene carbonate. 30°C, shear rate 0.1 s -1 An eye cosmetic having a shear viscosity of 2000 Pa·s or less and a complex viscosity of 15 Pa·s or more when a sinusoidal strain is applied at 60°C with a swing angle of 5% and a frequency of 1 Hz.
2. 30°C, shear rate 100 s -1 The eye cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the shear viscosity is 5.0 Pa·s or less.
3. (D) The eye cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polar oil component is one or more selected from tetra(behenate / benzoate / ethylhexanoate) pentaerythrityl, hexahydroxystearate dipentaerythrityl, triisostearate glyceryl, pentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, triisostearate polyglyceryl-2, hexa(hydroxystearate / stearate / rosinate) dipentaerythrityl, hexa(hydroxystearate / isostearate) dipentaerythrityl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, triethylhexanoin, tetraethylhexanoate pentaerythrityl, and dipivalate PPG-3.
4. The eye cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which does not contain wax or polymeric gelling agent, or if it does contain wax or polymeric gelling agent, the amount is 0.1% by mass or less of the total amount of the eye cosmetic.
5. The eye cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which either does not contain powder, or if it does contain powder, it is 20% by mass or less of the total amount of the eye cosmetic.
6. An eye cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which is a cosmetic specifically for mascara, a cosmetic for use as both mascara and eyeliner, a cosmetic for use as both mascara and eyeshadow, or a cosmetic for use as both mascara, eyeliner, and eyeshadow.
7. The eye cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, which is a cosmetic composition specifically for eyeliner or eyeshadow.
8. For the total amount of eye cosmetic (A) Volatile oil content: 35.0% to 70.0% by mass, (B) Organically modified clay minerals in an amount of 4.0% to 9.0% by mass, (C) Nonionic surfactant in an amount of 1.0% to 5.0% by mass, (D) Polar oil content of 3.0% to 10.0% by mass, (E) A coating agent in an amount of 1.5% to 30.0% by mass, and (F) 0.5% to 3.0% by mass of aqueous solvent Including, (A) Component is selected from volatile silicone oil or volatile hydrocarbon oil that is volatile at room temperature (25°C), (B) Component is selected from dimethyldistearylammonium hectorite, dimethylalkylammonium hectorite, benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyldimethylammonium chloride. (C) Component is selected from lipophilic nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 0.5 to 7. (D) Selected from polar oils whose component is liquid or semi-solid at room temperature, has an IOB of 0.16 or higher, and has a melting point of 55°C or lower. (E) Component is selected from PVP-based coating agents, acrylic acid-based coating agents, vinyl acetate-based coating agents, methacrylic acid-based coating agents, vinyl methyl ether-based coating agents, styrene-based coating agents, alkyd resin-based coating agents, and silicone resin-based coating agents. (F) The component is selected from water, ethanol, propanol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, and propylene carbonate. 30°C, shear rate 0.1 s -1 A method for producing an eye cosmetic, wherein the shear viscosity is 2000 Pa·s or less, and the complex viscosity is 15 Pa·s or more when a sinusoidal strain is applied at 60°C with an amplitude of 5% and a frequency of 1 Hz, wherein the mixing of components (A) to (F) is performed at room temperature.
9. A method for producing an eye cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the components (A) to (F) are mixed in the following order. (1) Mix (A) volatile oil, (B) organic modified clay mineral, (C) nonionic surfactant, and (E) film-forming agent, (2) Mix the mixture obtained in (1) with (D) polar oil, and (3) Mix the mixture obtained in (2) with (F) aqueous solvent.
Citation Information
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