Cosmetic composition for improving strand density of the hair

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving hair density comprising, as active ingredient, a lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria, combined with at least five biomimetic peptides. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair and scalp and a dermatological composition for use as a medicament for treating hair loss.

Description

Description Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition for improving hair density FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The technical field of the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological compositions for improving hair density, comprising as active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts of Coleus forskolhii, Saxifraga rotundifolia, Triticum vulgare and Quillaja saponaria, combined with at least five biomimetic peptides. TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

[0002] Humans have approximately 100,000 scalp hair shafts with varying degrees of hair growth, and the average life cycle of a hair shaft is approximately 3.5 years, with a growth rate of 1 millimeter per month. Hair has three regions, such as the medulla (innermost layer, developed from transparent cells and varies among hair types), the cortex (middle layer, which provides strength to the hair shaft, composed of keratin proteins), and the cuticle (outer layer). The hair follicle can be divided into lower, middle (isthmus), and upper (infundibulum) segments. The lower segment includes the bulb and suprabulb regions. The middle segment of the hair follicle includes the region covering the insertion of the arrector pili muscle to the opening of the sebaceous gland duct.The upper segment of the follicle includes the region between the opening of the sebaceous gland duct and the follicular orifice [Park, AM; Khan, S.; Rawnsley, J. Hair biology: Growth and pigmentation. Facial Plast. Surg. Clin. N. Am.2018, 26, 415–424.].

[0003] Hair color, density, curl, and diameter are affected by hair aging, which overall contributes to the appearance and manageability of hair [Trüeb, RM Aging of hair. J. Cosmet. Dermatol.2005, 4, 60–72.]. Many factors affect hair health and the hair growth cycle. Pollution such as heavy metals (thallium, mercury, arsenic) and PM 2.5 particles from burning petroleum compounds, toxins (Botulinum, Podostroma cornu-damae), medications, genetics, stress, smoking, menopause, lifestyle, and diet are some of the major factors associated with hair health. The combination of UV radiation and pollutants such as particles from oil combustion may exacerbate the biochemical and clinical effects of aging hair and skin tissue and may cause hair loss such as alopecia areata.

[0004] The history of alopecia areata (AA) begins around 1500 BCE, but scientific studies on hair loss have accelerated in recent decades in terms of publications [Broadley, D.; McElwee, K.J. A “hair-raising” history of alopecia areata. Exp. Dermatol.2020, 29, 208–222.]. Even though hair is not important to humans in terms of biological protection, hair loss has significant social, psychological, and emotional impacts on anyone affected by it. Therefore, treating hair loss and / or improving hair and scalp health is a societal problem that needs to be addressed.

[0005] The prior art reports numerous cosmetic and dermatological compositions for stimulating hair growth. Many plant extracts, even peptides, or both in combination, are proposed to prevent hair loss and / or stimulate hair regrowth.

[0006] Surprisingly, the Inventor discovered that a new complex of four plant extracts [Coleus forskohlii, Saxifraga rotundifolia, Triticum durgidum and Quillaja saponaria] associated with 5 synthetic peptides [EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, VEGF] exhibits a strong stimulating activity on hair regrowth and improves the quality of the scalp.

[0007] This particular combination of ingredients has never been described before in the hair care field. Disclosure of the invention

[0008] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving hair density, comprising as active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides chosen from EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF, and a physiologically acceptable excipient.

[0009] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair and scalp which consists of applying, twice a day, to the hair and scalp, an effective amount of approximately 0.5 to 1.5 grams (g) of such a composition, for approximately 1 to 9 minutes (mn), in particular 3 to 7 minutes, and optionally rinsing with water or shampoo.

[0010] The invention also relates to a dermatological composition for use as a medicament for preventing and treating hair loss, containing as active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of the wood of Quillaja saponaria, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides selected from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0011] Finally, the invention relates to the process for preparing a cosmetic and dermatological composition according to the invention comprising: – Mixing the lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots and the lipid extract of Tricitum vulgare, – Adding the mixture to an aqueous phase containing the hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, the hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, as well as the at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides, – Stirring and cooling to room temperature. DEFINITIONS

[0012] In the present invention, the terms are defined as follows:

[0013] "Improving hair density" means improving the quality of the scalp and stimulating hair regrowth. This improvement in hair density applies to hair loss or alopecia, but also to fine and thinning hair and also to maintain the results of hair transplants.

[0014] "Synthetic biomimetic peptides" refers to peptides acting in cellular repair processes, such as EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, VEGF, which have been synthetically or biosynthetically reproduced and which will therefore in turn mimic, hence their name biomimetics, these different cellular repair processes. Synthetic reproduction is a chemical synthesis process, while biosynthetic reproduction is a biotechnological synthesis process (by implanting their coding gene into a bacterium).

[0015] “Coleus forskohlii Root Lipid Extract (INCI Name: Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract)” refers to an extract obtained, for example, by supercritical CO2 extraction.

[0016] Coleus forskohlii, or Indian Coleus, is a tropical perennial plant with recognized properties on lipid metabolism. Used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries, it grows in the regions of Southeast Asia: India, Thailand, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. In traditional Indian medicine systems, due to its composition of chamecydine, alpha-hydroxydemethylcryptojaponol, alpha-cedrene, oleanolic acid, forskolin G, forskolin J, 1,6-diacetyl-9-deoxyforskolin, forskolin A, forskolin H, 6-acetyl-1-deoxyforskolin, betulinic acid, beta-sitosterol, Coleus forskohlii root extracts are also used as a tonic. Others Relevant therapeutic properties include anthelmintic actions and efficacy in the management of skin infections and rashes.

[0017] “Hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia (INCI name: Saxifraga rotundifolia extract)” refers to an extract obtained, for example, using an ultrasonic extractor of the REUS brand and in the presence of water and glycerol.

[0018] Round-leaved saxifrage is a species of perennial plant in the Saxifragaceae family. Its leaves are 20 to 50 cm tall and are rounded and edged with large teeth. Its flowers form small white stars whose five petals are decorated with small dots ranging from yellow in the center of the flower to red at the tips of the petals. It likes cool conditions and grows in shady places or along streams. It is not uncommon to see it hiding in the shade of large plants in the mountain megaphorbia. Its hydrophilic extract is made up of polyphenols and glycoflavonoids, which may give it anti-inflammatory activity.

[0019] “Lipid extract of Triticum vulgare (or Wheat) vulgare (INCI name: Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids)” concerns an extract obtained for example by supercritical CO2 extraction.

[0020] Triticum vulgare lipid extract belongs to the class of "anti-inflammatory agents," primarily used to treat vaginal yeast infections, pressure ulcers (bedsores), skin injuries, and burns. This Triticum vulgare extract contains vitamin E and is used as a skin conditioning agent. It also aids in the healing process and skin regeneration. It contains antioxidants and is used to treat skin scars. When used for yeast infections, it effectively decreases the severity of symptoms such as vaginal dryness, pain, burning, itching, and discharge.

[0021] “Hydrophilic extract of the wood of Quillaja saponaria saponaria (INCI name: Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract)” concerns an extract obtained for example using an ultrasonic extractor of the REUS brand and in the presence of demineralized water.

[0022] The hydrophilic wood extract of Quillaja saponaria, or the Chilean soap tree, has long been used in its native region to treat various chest and skin conditions. It is believed to be particularly effective as an expectorant, helping the body eliminate phlegm by increasing the production of thin mucus. Quillaja saponaria is also used to treat dandruff and skin ulcers because it is a gentle cleanser. Recent research indicates that this tree may be effective in reducing and even preventing rotavirus infection in children. External uses of Quillaja saponaria include remedies for dandruff, skin ulcers, and other cuticle problems. The extract from this plant is associated with anti-inflammatory properties. It is also believed to soothe itchy skin. skin and scalp irritations.

[0023] "EGF peptide," for Epidermal Growth Factor, is the epidermal growth factor, it is a polypeptide of 53 amino acids. The chemically synthesized biomimetic EGF peptide is called sh-Oligopeptide-1.

[0024] "IGF-1 peptide," for "Insulin-Growth Factor 1," for IGF1 growth hormone, also called somatomedin C, is a protein produced by the liver, muscles, and other tissues in response to stimulation by growth hormone (GH). IGF-1 promotes bone growth and muscle mass growth. The chemically synthesized biomimetic IGF-1 peptide is named sh-Oligopeptide-2.

[0025] "Acid FGF peptide" for "Acid Fibroblast Growth Factor" is the acid fibroblast growth factor, marketed for example under the SIGMA brand on the priority date. The chemically synthesized biomimetic FGF Acid peptide is named sh-Polypeptide-1.

[0026] "Basic Fibroblast Growth Factor" is the basic fibroblast growth factor, marketed for example under the SIGMA trademark on the priority date. The chemically synthesized biomimetic FGF Basic peptide is called sh-Polypeptide-9.

[0027] "VEDF peptide, for "Vascular Endothelium Growth Factor", is the vascular endothelium growth factor, marketed for example under the brand SIGMA at the priority date. The chemically synthesized biomimetic VEDF peptide is named sh-Polypeptide-11.

[0028] “Active ingredient” means a substance which, in the cosmetic composition or in a dermatological drug, exhibits the desired activity and / or a desired therapeutic effect and which is present most of the time in a very small proportion compared to the excipients.

[0029] "Physiologically acceptable" and "dermatologically acceptable" means suitable for topical use, in contact with human skin, or for use by other routes of administration, for example, orally or by injection into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, or allergic response. Brief description of the drawings

[0030] Other characteristics, advantages and details of the invention will be better understood on reading the additional description which follows in relation to the drawings in which:

[0031] [Fig.1] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis and the epidermis of the scalp,

[0032] [Fig.2] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of PINK1 in hair follicle cells.

[0033] [Fig.3] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of Nrf2.

[0034] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

[0035] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving hair density, comprising as active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides chosen from EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF, and a physiologically acceptable excipient.

[0036] Surprisingly, the inventor found that by combining in a composition four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood with five synthetic biomimetic peptides chosen from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, the cosmetic composition according to the invention: – makes it possible to increase the expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis of the scalp - It therefore has hydration and repair properties of the skin tissue and participates in the cellular proliferation of the cells of the skin tissue; – makes it possible to increase the expression of PINK1 in the cells of the hair follicle - It therefore participates in maintaining the cellular homeostasis of the cells;– helps reduce the expression of Nrf2 in the epidermis - It therefore has anti-radical properties; – helps increase the concentration of ATP in the cells of the hair follicle - It therefore helps promote proliferation and inhibit terminal differentiation of keratinocytes; – also helps to participate in the repair of the skin barrier of the scalp.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one additional plant extract, different from the four extracts defined above, and / or at least one additional biomimetic peptide, different from the five peptides defined above.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.01% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.005% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.2%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 0.9% by weight for the plant extracts and 0.02%, 0.04%, 0.07% and 0.08% for the biomimetic peptides.

[0040] According to one embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the biomimetic peptides are the chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9 and sh-Polypeptide-11.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the active ingredient consists of the four plant extracts associated with the five biomimetic peptides, preferably biomimetic peptides of chemical synthesis.

[0042] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise any additive commonly used in the envisaged field of application as well as the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, colorants, sunscreens, self-tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, film-forming polymers, etc.

[0043] The INCI Dictionary & Handbook ("International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients" (13th Ed. 2010) published by "the Personal Care Products Council, Inc.", Washington, DC) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions according to the present invention.

[0044] When they are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the total content of additional compounds, different from the active ingredients according to the invention, advantageously varies from 0.01 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition of these possible compounds.

[0045] The invention also relates to the method for the cosmetic treatment of hair and scalp, characterized in that it consists of the application, twice a day, to the hair and scalp, of an effective amount of approximately 0.5 to 1.5 g of a composition according to the invention, for approximately 1 to 9 minutes (mn), in particular 3 to 7 minutes, and optionally rinsing with water or shampoo.

[0046] According to one embodiment of the method for the cosmetic treatment according to the invention, a treatment is combined on the scalp with light emitted by light-emitting diodes (LEDs) at wavelengths of 670 nm and 880 nm for a duration of between 10 and 60 min, in particular between 15 and 45 min, typically between 25 and 35 min. Said treatment can be applied between once a week and once a day, typically between 2 and 3 times a week.

[0047] The invention also relates to a dermatological composition for use as a medicament for preventing and treating hair loss, containing as active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides chosen from EGF, IGF-1, Acid FGF, Basic FGF, and VEGF, and a dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0048] According to one embodiment, in the dermatological composition according to the invention, the at least four plant extracts are each present between 3% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.6% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] According to one embodiment, in the dermatological composition according to the invention, the biomimetic peptides are the chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9 and sh-Polypeptide-11.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, in the dermatological composition according to the invention, the active ingredient consists of the four plant extracts associated with the five biomimetic peptides, preferably biomimetic peptides of chemical synthesis.

[0051] The dermatological composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise any additive commonly used in the field of application envisaged as well as the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, as mentioned previously for the cosmetic composition.

[0052] The invention also relates to the process for preparing a cosmetic and dermatological composition as mentioned above comprising:

[0053] - Mixture of the lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots and the lipid extract of Tricitum vulgare – the mixture is for example made under stirring – the mixture is for example made at a temperature above room temperature, for example at a temperature above 70°C, or even above 75°C, or even still above 80°C,

[0054] - Addition of the mixture to an aqueous phase containing the hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, the hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, as well as the at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides – this addition is for example made with stirring – this addition is for example made to an aqueous phase brought to a temperature above room temperature, for example to a temperature above 70°C, or even above 75°C, or even above 80°C, for example the same temperature as the temperature of the mixture,

[0055] - Stirring and cooling to room temperature - Stirring can for example be maintained for at least 30 minutes, for example between 45 minutes and 90 minutes - Preservatives can be added to the composition during this phase - cooling can be forced or natural.

[0056] The compositions according to the invention may in particular be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, or water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, serums, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or even powders, and suitable for application to the skin and / or appendages.

[0057] The composition according to the invention consists in particular of a hair care composition, and in particular a shampoo, a conditioner, a treatment lotion, a styling cream or gel, a restructuring lotion for the hair, a mask, etc. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in particular in treatments involving an application which is followed or not by rinsing, or in the form of a shampoo. It can also be in the form of a dye or mascara to be applied with a brush or comb, in particular to the eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.

[0058] In one embodiment according to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel, a lotion, a mousse, a balm, a cream, a spray or a serum. EXAMPLES

[0059] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting manner.

[0060] Example 1: Tests of the different biological activities of the composition

[0061] In order to demonstrate the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention, the inventor analyzed the biological activity of the composition on human skin explants, with hair follicles present, ex vivo by histological, biochemical and genomic studies and he realized that the composition according to the invention induced at the level of human skin and hair follicles:

[0062] - an increase in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid,

[0063] - an increase in the expression of PINK1,

[0064] - a decrease in the expression of Nrf2,

[0065] - an increase in ATP synthesis,

[0066] - regeneration of the scalp skin barrier,

[0067] - differentiation of keratinocytes,

[0068] The histological and biochemical studies further consist of analyzing the effect of the composition according to the invention on the expression of hyaluronic acid, PINK1, and Nrf2 by cells originating from human skin explants as well as their ATP concentration.

[0069] To do this, the effect of the following products was tested:

[0070] - Product P1 comprises 5% by mass of lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii, 5% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, 5% by mass of lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, 5% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria and 1% by mass of the 5 biosynthetic peptides [EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF]. This mixture was supplemented with 79% by mass of demineralized water and treated with ultrasound (BRANSON ultrasonics probe and device) for 10 minutes at room temperature.

[0071] - product P2 comprises 1% by mass of lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii, 1% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, 1% by mass of lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, 1% by mass of extract of Quillaja saponaria and 0.1% by mass of the 5 biosynthetic peptides [EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF]. This mixture was supplemented with 95.9% by mass of demineralized water and sonicated by ultrasound for 10 minutes at room temperature.

[0072] - product E comprising 100% by mass of distilled water.

[0073] Human skin explants from scalp plastic surgery were prepared and divided into four batches:

[0074] - lot T0 corresponding to the plasty control and comprising 3 explants,

[0075] - batch T corresponding to the control and comprising 6 explants,

[0076] - batch E corresponding to the batch treated with product E and comprising 6 explants,

[0077] - batch P1 corresponding to the batch treated with product P1 and comprising 6 explants,

[0078] - batch P2 corresponding to the batch treated with product P2 and comprising 6 explants.

[0079] Each skin explant was kept alive in culture medium at a temperature of 37°C in a humid atmosphere enriched with 5% CO2.

[0080] At T = 0 days (D0), T = 1 day (D1), T = 4 days (D4), T = 6 days (D6) and T = 7 days (D7), 5 μL of products E, P1 and P2 were respectively applied topically to the explants of batches E, P1 and P2.

[0081] At D0, the 3 explants from batch T0 were removed and cut into three parts. The first was fixed in a buffered formalin solution, a second part was frozen at -80°C for histological analysis and a third part was frozen at –80°C for biochemical analysis.

[0082] At T = 5 days (D5) and T = 8 days (D8), 3 explants from batches T, E, P1 and P2 were taken and treated in the same way as the explants from batch T0.

[0083] After 24 hours in buffered formalin, the samples were dehydrated and impregnated in paraffin and then put into blocks. 5 μm sections were made and mounted on histological glass slides.

[0084] The general morphology of the dermal and epidermal structures was analyzed on paraffin sections after staining with Masson trichrome Goldner variant and evaluated by microscopic examination.

[0085] The expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis and epidermis of the scalp was observed by performing immunostaining of hyaluronic acid from batches T0, T to D5 (TJ5) and D8 (TJ8), E to D5 (EJ5) and D8 (EJ8), P1 to D5 (P1D5) and D8 (P1D8) and P2 to D5 (P2D5) and D8 (P2D8). Hyaluronic acid was labeled on formalin paraffin sections with HABP (Hyaluronic Acid Binding Protein) diluted 1 / 800 ème in PBS-BSA 0.3% for 1 hour at room temperature with a biotin / streptavidin amplifier system and revealed in VIP. The immunolabeling is then evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0086] PINK1 expression in hair follicle cells was observed by performing PINK1 immunostaining of batches T0, T to D5 (TJ5) and D8 (TJ8), E to D5 (EJ5) and D8 (EJ8), P1 to D5 (P1J5) and D8 (P1J8) and P2 to D5 (P2J5) and D8 (P2J8). PINK1 was labeled on paraffin sections with an anti-PINK1 monoclonal antibody diluted 1 / 100 in PBS20 BSA 0.3% overnight at room temperature (4°C) with a biotin / streptavidin amplifier system and revealed in VIP. Immunostaining is then evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0087] Cellular Nrf2 expression was observed by immunostaining Nrf2 from batches T0, T to D5 (TJ5) and D8 (TJ8), E to D5 (EJ5) and D8 (EJ8), P1 to D5 (P1J5) and D8 (P1J8) and P2 to D5 (P2J5) and D8 (P2J8). Nrf2 was labeled on paraffin sections with an anti-Nrf2 monoclonal antibody diluted 1 / 400 in PBS-BSA 0.3%-Tween 20 0.05% for one hour at room temperature with a biotin / streptavidin amplifier system and revealed in VIP. Immunostaining was then evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0088] ATP assay was performed on batches T0, T to D5 (TJ5) and D8 (TJ8), E to D5 (EJ5) and D8 (EJ8), P1 to D5 (P1D5) and D8 (P1D8) and P2 to D5 (P2D5) and D8 (P2D8). Frozen skin explants were ground and then subjected to ultrasonic cell disruption. After centrifugation at + 4000 rpm, at 18°C, proteins were measured in the supernatant by a Bradford technique. ATP in the explants was quantified using an ATP assay kit and a fluorimeter.

[0089] In Figures 1 to 3, TF corresponds to very weak marking, F to weak marking, M to moderate marking, AN to fairly clear marking, N to clear marking, TH to very clear marking and Fo to strong marking.

[0090] [Fig.1] illustrates the results of the labeling and therefore the expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis and the epidermis of the scalp.

[0091] Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan consisting of repeats of D-glucuronic acid and DN-acetylglucosamine. It is one of the major components of the skin and is notably involved in several cellular processes including hydration, skin tissue repair and cell proliferation. For example, under chronic UV action, hyaluronic acid synthesis is reduced while hyaluronidase activity remains unchanged. Significant degradation of hyaluronic acid is thus observed. HABP (Hyaluronic Acid Binding Protein) is a protein that links hyaluronic acid to other components of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, including proteoglycans. It is used in dermatological research to visualize hyaluronic acid within skin tissue.

[0092] [Fig.1] shows that the labeling of hyaluronic acid at the epidermis level is weak in batch T0, weak to moderate in batches TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8 and moderate in batches TJ5, EJ5, P1J5 and P2J5.

[0093] Thus, whether at D5 or D8, products P1 and P2 do not induce modifications in the expression of hyaluronic acid compared to control T and product E.

[0094] Hyaluronic acid labeling in the papillary dermis is weak to moderate in batches TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8, moderate in batches TJ5, EJ5 and P2J5 and quite clear in batches T0 and P1J5.

[0095] Thus, product P1 induces a moderate increase in the expression of hyaluronic acid compared to control T and product E at the level of the papillary dermis.

[0096] The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to increase the expression of hyaluronic acid in the papillary dermis of the scalp. It therefore has hydration and repair properties for skin tissue and participates in the cellular proliferation of skin tissue cells.

[0097] [Fig.2] illustrates the results of labeling and thus expression of PINK1 in hair follicle cells.

[0098] PINK1 (P-TEN Induced Putative Kinase 1) is a protein involved in the mitophagy mechanism, which is a selective autophagy process of damaged and non-functional mitochondria. It specifically accumulates on the surface of the outer membrane of damaged mitochondria whose electrochemical potential is disturbed. Within skin tissue and hair follicle cells, the mitophagy process is stimulated by oxidative stress, linked to the accumulation of reactive oxygen species contributing to the elimination of damaged mitochondria and the maintenance of cellular homeostasis. PINK1 is also linked to anti-aging cellular mechanisms, particularly at the cutaneous level.

[0099] PINK1 labeling in hair follicle cells is weak in batch T0, weak to moderate in batches TJ8 and EJ8, moderate in batches TJ5 and EJ5, and moderate to fairly clear in batches P1J5, P2J5, P1J8, and P2J8.

[0100] Thus, whether at D5 or D8, the P1 and P2 products induce an increase in PINK1 expression compared to the T control and the E product.

[0101] The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to increase the expression of PINK1 at the cellular level. It therefore participates in maintaining the cellular homeostasis of hair follicle cells and has anti-aging properties.

[0102] [Fig.3] illustrates the results of labeling and therefore of cellular Nrf2 expression.

[0103] Nrf2 is a transcription factor with a key role in the response to oxidative stress and is constitutively expressed in a wide range of cells and tissues. Under the action of oxidative stress, including UV exposure, Nrf2 is phosphorylated, promoting its successive translocation from the cytoplasm to the nucleus. Once translocated into the nucleus, Nrf2 is able to bind to DNA at a specific region, also known as HARE (Human Antioxidant Response Element). Nrf2 plays a key role in the protection of hair follicle keratinocytes against alterations induced by UV and PM2.5 pollution.

[0104] Nrf2 labeling at the epidermis level is weak to moderate on batches TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8, moderate on batch P1J5, moderate to fairly clear on batches TJ5, EJ5, P2J5 and fairly clear to clear on batch T0.

[0105] Thus, product P1 induces a decrease in Nrf2 expression compared to control T and product E.

[0106] The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to reduce the expression of Nrf2 at the cellular level. Thus, the reduction in the expression of Nrf2 reflects its translocation from the cytoplasm to the nucleus where it activates genes responsible for cellular protection and in particular the synthesis of antioxidant enzymes. The composition according to the invention therefore has anti-radical and antioxidant properties.

[0107] The table below illustrates the ATP assay results for batches T0, TJ5, EJ5, P1J5, P2J5, TJ8, EJ8, P1J8 and P2J8.

[0108] [Table 1] ATP concentration (μmol / g protein) T0 TJ5 EJ5 P1J5 P2J5 TJ8 EJ8 P1J8 P2J8 Average 0.50 2.37 2.41 2.75 4.15 3.77 3.82 4.45 3.84

[0109] ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is a nucleotide known to stimulate and participate in countless intracellular processes. Extracellular ATP and its metabolite adenosine can exert a variety of effects on nearly every cell type in human skin, including those of the scalp, and potential cutaneous sources of ATP abound. Examples of cutaneous sources include ATP released by tissue hypoxia and cell lysis during mechanical injury, and ATP release from keratinocytes under the influence of nucleotides or cytokines. ATP promotes keratinocyte proliferation and inhibits terminal keratinocyte differentiation through P2Y2 receptors located in the basal layer of the epidermis.ATP also plays an important role in organizing skin responses to mechanical injuries, both by modulating inflammatory processes in Langerhans cells and by directly stimulating skin regeneration and healing processes. ATP is an important energy molecule for intracellular processes and plays a major role in skin rejuvenation. With aging, ATP levels in the dermis decline, creating an energy deficiency, thus affecting the appearance of the skin. Thus, ATP is effective in providing anti-aging protection and also has moisturizing and soothing properties.

[0110] Thus, we observe that products P1 and P2 induce an increase in ATP concentration compared to control T and product E.

[0111] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to increase the ATP concentration in the cells of the epidermis. An increase in the production of ATP in the skin makes it possible to improve the metabolic functions of the skin. The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to promote the proliferation and inhibit the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes in the hair follicle. The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to participate in the repair of the skin barrier of the scalp.

[0112] Tests were also carried out on compositions comprising between 0.1% and 1% by mass of lipid extract of Coleus forskohlii, between 0.1% and 1% by mass of hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, between 0.1% and 1% by mass of lipid extract of Triticum vulgare, between 0.1% and 1% by mass of extract of Quillaja saponaria and between 0.01% and 0.09% by mass of the 5 biosynthetic peptides [EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF]. These mixtures were supplemented with demineralized water and sonicated by ultrasound for 10 minutes at room temperature. It was found that these compositions possessed the same properties as the aforementioned products P1 and P2.

[0113] The following description relates to examples of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

[0114] Example 2: Scalp Serum

[0115] [Tableaux2] Dénomination INCI Pourcentage massique Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 5 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 5 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 5 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 5 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oli- 1 gopeptide-2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh-Polypeptide-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 Glycerin 5 Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum 2 Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid 1 Sodium Benzoate 0,2 Potassium Sorbate 0,2 Xanthan Gum 2 Citric acid 0,5 Aqua 68,1

[0116] Exemple 3 : Masque capillaire

[0117] [Tableaux3] Dénomination INCI Pourcentage massique Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 2 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 2 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 2 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 2 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oli- 0,2 gopeptide-2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh-Polypeptide-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 Olive Oil Decyl Esters 5 Cetearyl Olivate 5 Heptyl Undecylenate 2 Sorbitan Olivate 2 Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters 4 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 4 Squalane 1 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 2 Hexyldecanol 1 Hexyldecyl Laurate 2 Citric Acid 0,5 Prunus Domestica Seed Oil 2 Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables 2 Sodium Benzoate 0,2 Xanthan Gum 1 Lauroyl Lysine 2,5 Squalene 1 Glycerin 5 Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum 2 Potassium Sorbate 0,2 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2,5 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 2,5 Aqua 42,4

[0118] Exemple 4 : Spray pour les cheveux

[0119] [Tableaux4] Dénomination INCI Pourcentage massique Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 1 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 1 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 1 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 1 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oli- 0,4 gopeptide-2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh-Polypeptide-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 Potassium Sorbate 0,2 Sodium Benzoate 0,2 Aqua 95 Parfum 0,2

[0120] Exemple 5 : Tonique soin capillaire au CBD

[0121] [Tableaux5] Dénomination INCI Pourcentage massique Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract 3 Saxifraga rotundifolia extract 3 Glycosphingolipids (and) Glycolipids 3 Quillaja Saponaria Wood Extract 3 sh-Oligopeptide-1 (and) sh-Oli- 0,6 gopeptide-2 (and) sh-Polypeptide-1 (and) sh- Polypeptide-9 (and) sh-Polypeptide-11 Cannabidiol powder 0,1 Aqua 86,7 Parfum 0,2 Potassium Sorbate 0,2 Sodium Benzoate 0,2

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for improving hair density, comprising as active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides chosen from EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF, and a physiologically acceptable excipient.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.01% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.005% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least four plant extracts are each present between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the at least five peptides are each present between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the biomimetic peptides are the chemically synthesized peptides sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-9 and sh-Polypeptide-11.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the active ingredient consists of the four plant extracts associated with the five biomimetic peptides, preferably chemically synthesized biomimetic peptides.

6. Process for the cosmetic treatment of the hair and scalp, characterized in that it consists of the application, twice a day, to the hair and scalp, of an effective amount of approximately 0.5 grams (g) to 1.5 g of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, for approximately 1 to 9 minutes (mn), in particular 3 to 7 minutes, and optionally rinsing with water or shampoo.

7. Process according to claim 6, characterized in that a treatment with light at wavelengths of 670 nm and 880 nm is combined on the scalp for a duration of between 10 minutes (mn) and. 60 Mn, in particular between 15 and 45 min, typically between 25 and 35 min.

8. Dermatological composition for use as a medicament for preventing and treating hair loss containing as active ingredient an effective amount of at least four plant extracts chosen from a lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots, a hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, a lipid extract of Triticum vulgare and a hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, combined with at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides chosen from EGF, IGF-1, FGF Acid, FGF Basic, and VEGF, and a dermatologically acceptable excipient.

9. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic and dermatological composition according to claims 1 and 8 comprising: – Mixing the lipid extract of Coleus forskolhii roots and the lipid extract of Tricitum vulgare, – Adding the mixture to an aqueous phase containing the hydrophilic extract of Saxifraga rotundifolia, the hydrophilic extract of Quillaja saponaria wood, as well as the at least five synthetic biomimetic peptides, – Stirring and cooling to room temperature.

10. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 8, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, a lotion, a mousse, a balm, a cream, a spray or a serum.

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