Filament woven garments containing or consisting of lyocell filaments

Abstract

Silk woven fabrics are known for their touch. However, the disadvantages of silk are its price, its poor washability and its low tolerance to certain chemical treatments. Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide a filamentous woven fabric that overcomes these problems. According to the present invention, this problem is solved by providing a filamentous woven fabric (2) made of weft yarns (4) and warp yarns (6), wherein at least one of the weft yarns (4) and the warp yarns (6) comprises or consists of lyocell filaments (8). In particular, by using twisted lyocell filament yarns, the resulting material can have a touch comparable to that of silk and physical properties equal to or even exceeding those of silk. In addition, the lyocell filament yarns (4, 6) can have a higher twist than silk yarns, other cellulose yarns or synthetic yarns.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a woven fabric made of weft and warp yarns, in particular a filamentary woven fabric, wherein at least one of the weft and warp yarns comprises or consists of lyocell filament yarns.

[0002] Fabrics made of silk (i.e., silk fibers) have high wearing comfort because they have high hygroscopicity and feel smooth and soft without being slippery. Moreover, silk has high tenacity, is highly durable and has high luster. However, silk is very expensive. It has only very little elasticity and remains plastically elongated once stretched. In addition, it is vulnerable to insect damage and sensitive to sunlight. Another disadvantage of silk is its poor washability. To avoid shrinkage, silk must be dry-cleaned, and even then, shrinkage rates of up to 4% may occur.

[0003] Fabrics made of silk are especially lightweight fabrics, such as crepe fabrics, including creponne and georgette fabrics, and medium-weight douppioni silk. In the context of the present application, silk only denotes 100% natural silk.

[0004] To avoid the disadvantages associated with silk fabrics, many attempts have been made in the past to reproduce the wearing comfort of silk with filamentary fabrics using or consisting of yarns containing artificial continuous filaments.

[0005] Compared with fabrics produced from yarns made of cut fibers, such artificial continuous filament yarns are widely used in the textile industry for producing fabrics with distinct characteristics. A continuous filament yarn is a yarn in which all the fibers are continuous over any length of the yarn. A continuous filament yarn will typically consist of 20 to 200 or more individual fibers, which are all parallel to each other and to the axis of the yarn during production. Yarns are produced by extruding a solution or melt of a polymer or polymer derivative and then winding the produced yarn onto a bobbin or creel, or forming a cake of yarn by centrifugal winding. For certain applications, twisted yarns are used.

[0006] Synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns are common. For example, nylon, polyester and polypropylene continuous filament yarns are used in a variety of fabrics. They are produced by melt-spinning the molten polymer through a spinneret, the number of holes in which corresponds to the number of fibers required in the produced yarn. After the molten polymer starts to solidify, the yarn can be stretched to orient the polymer molecules and improve the properties of the yarn.

[0007] Continuous filament yarns can also be spun from cellulose derivatives such as cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate by dry spinning. The polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through a spinneret. The solvent evaporates rapidly after extrusion, causing the polymer to precipitate in the form of a yarn. The newly produced yarn can be stretched to orient the polymer molecules.

[0008] Continuous filament yarns can be further produced from cellulose using the viscose process. By reacting with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, cellulose is converted into cellulose xanthate, which is then dissolved in a sodium hydroxide solution. The cellulose solution, commonly known as viscose liquor, is extruded through a spinneret into an acid bath. Neutralizing the sodium hydroxide causes the cellulose to precipitate. At the same time, cellulose xanthate is converted back to cellulose by reacting with an acid. The newly formed fibers are stretched to orient the cellulose molecules, washed to remove the reactants from the fibers, and then dried and wound onto bobbins. In an earlier version of this method, a centrifugal winder - Topham Box - was used to collect the wet yarn into a cheese. The cheese of yarn was then dried in an oven and then wound onto bobbins.

[0009] Continuous filament cellulose yarns are also produced using the cupro process. Cellulose is dissolved in a solution of cuprammonium hydroxide. The resulting solution is extruded into a water bath, where the cuprammonium hydroxide is diluted and the cellulose precipitates. The resulting yarn is washed, dried, and wound onto bobbins.

[0010] The cellulose continuous filament yarns produced by the viscose or cupro process can be made into fabrics by weaving. The fabrics produced are used in a variety of applications, including linings for ladies' and men's clothing.

[0011] Fabrics made from continuous filament cellulose yarns can have a high luster. They perform well in moisture handling to improve the comfort of the wearer. They do not generate static electricity as easily as fabrics made from continuous filament synthetic yarns.

[0012] Fabrics made from currently available continuous filament cellulose yarns generally have poor physical properties. Compared to fabrics made from synthetic polymers such as polyester, the dry strength and tear strength are poor. Due to the interaction between cellulose and water, the wet strength is much lower than the dry strength. The abrasion resistance is low. The interaction with water also makes cellulose soft, resulting in fabrics made from this yarn being unstable when wet. This is especially a problem when washing these materials in a home washing machine.

[0013] Due to these defects, products originally made from continuous filament cellulose yarns are now mainly made from synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns, such as polyester and nylon.

[0014] However, synthetic yarns have problems. Fabrics made from them do not have the moisture handling ability of fabrics made from cellulose yarns. Synthetic fabrics generate static electricity. Some people find that filamentary fabrics made from synthetic yarns are much less comfortable to wear than silk. In addition, filamentary fabrics made from synthetic yarns have poor washability and require dry cleaning to avoid excessive shrinkage.

[0015] Thus, there is still no available filamentous material that combines the wearing comfort of silk and its high toughness, and at the same time can be washed in a household washing machine without significant shrinkage.

[0016] Accordingly, the object of the present invention is to provide a wash-resistant filamentous woven fabric that exhibits similar or higher wearing comfort to silk in terms of moisture absorption and touch, and has a strength similar to that of silk.

[0017] This object is solved by a filamentous woven fabric made of weft yarns and warp yarns, wherein at least one of the weft yarns and the warp yarns comprises or consists of lyocell filaments.

[0018] If the non-lyocell yarns consist of wash-resistant materials, such a fabric is wash-resistant. It also exhibits high toughness and is wash-resistant. The luster, softness and smoothness can all be comparable to those of silk. The environmental impact of the lyocell manufacturing process is lower than that of other artificial filament yarns.

[0019] Lyocell is a generic name given to a class of cellulose-based man-made fibers produced by a direct dissolution method. The lyocell process is described, for example, in US 4,246,221 and WO 93 / 19230.

[0020] A slurry of wood pulp is formed with a solution of amine oxide in water. Then water is evaporated from the slurry in a thin-film evaporator vessel. When the water content is reduced below a certain level, cellulose forms a solution in the amine oxide. The resulting viscous liquid is solidified into a glassy solid at below about 70 °C. If maintained above this temperature, it can be pumped through a spinneret to form filaments, which are then immediately immersed in water, where dilution of the amine oxide causes precipitation of the cellulose.

[0021] The spinneret for extruding the amine oxide cellulose solution has a number of holes corresponding to the number of filaments required in the continuous filament yarn. After extrusion, the newly formed yarn is washed with countercurrent water to remove the amine oxide. This washing can be carried out on a self-advancing filament frame, on which water is introduced to wash the fibers. A finishing agent can be applied to assist further processing, and the yarn is dried. The washed and dried yarn is wound onto a bobbin.

[0022] In the lyocell process, cellulose in the form of wood pulp is the only raw material used. The wood pulp used comes from sustainably managed forests. The filaments produced are 100% cellulose and are the only product from the process. The amine oxide solvent is recovered from the wash water and reused to produce other filaments. The recovery rate can be as high as 99.7%. As a result, the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very low. The process releases little or no gaseous or liquid emissions, and the filaments produced are solvent-free.

[0023] In contrast, the viscose process uses carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid, and zinc sulfate. Hydrogen sulfide and carbon disulfide can be released from this process unless special care is taken. Sodium sulfate is produced as a by-product of this process.

[0024] The present invention can be further improved by the following additional features, which can be combined independently of each other and each exhibit different technical effects.

[0025] The continuous filament Lyocell yarn used to produce the product of the present invention can be in the as-produced untwisted state or can be twisted by rewinding. It may be a doubled yarn. It can be combined by twisting the yarns together or by using, for example, jet texturing to combine it with another continuous filament yarn or a staple fiber yarn.

[0026] According to one aspect of the present invention, at least one of the weft yarn and the warp yarn can comprise at least one Lyocell filament yarn or consist of at least one Lyocell filament yarn having at least 150 TPM (turns per meter). This allows the production of filament crepe fabrics. It has surprisingly been found that with Lyocell filaments, the twist of the yarn can even be significantly increased to above 1500 TPM. If more than 3000 TPM is used in the Lyocell filaments, a crepe effect can be achieved, which cannot be achieved with other materials due to this high twist. The maximum twist may be approximately 3500 TPM. For yarns with a fineness between 20 and 150 dtex, for single, 2-ply, and / or 3-ply, these TPM ranges can be achieved regardless of whether S-twist or Z-twist is used. This separates the filament woven fabrics of the present invention from fabrics containing viscose fibers or cuprammonium filaments, which can have a maximum TPM of only approximately 2500. Using Lyocell filament yarns, even higher TPM values can be obtained compared to using silk filaments at the same or even lower fineness, due to the high tenacity of the Lyocell filaments.

[0027] At least one of the weft yarn and the warp yarn can comprise at least one Lyocell filament yarn or consist thereof, and the linear mass density of the Lyocell filament yarn does not exceed 100 dtex. This allows the production of heavy filament fabrics, such as douppioni silk. For medium-weight filament woven fabrics, the linear mass density of the Lyocell filament yarn can not exceed 70 dtex. For lightweight filament woven fabrics such as thick crepe or georgette, the linear mass density of at least one Lyocell filament yarn can be less than 30 dtex. The linear mass density of a single Lyocell filament can be between 1.1 and 1.5 dtex, preferably between 1.25 and 1.4 dtex.

[0028] Preferably, the filament woven fabric has high abrasion resistance. This can be achieved if, after the first wash according to DIN EN 6330, the filament woven fabric exhibits a number of abrasion cycles of at least 6000 Martindale to hole formation in the Martindale abrasion test according to DIN EN ISO 12947-1:2007-04. In particular, if the Lyocell filament yarn has a relatively high linear mass density, for example between 50 and 100 dtex, the abrasion resistance can be at least 7500 Martindale.

[0029] Another improvement for synthetic filament or filament woven fabrics can be achieved if, as determined by the Martindale pilling test according to DIN EN ISO 12945-2, the filament woven fabric of the present invention has at least 3 Martindale after 2000 cycles.

[0030] According to another embodiment, in the test using a TSA tester, especially for a filamentary Lyocell woven fabric containing or consisting of Lyocell yarns with less than 300 TPM, the TS7 value measured by the TSA fabric softness analyzer can be no greater than 6. In particular, for a filamentary Lyocell woven fabric containing or consisting of Lyocell yarns with, for example, 200 - 1000 TPM, the TS7 value can be less than 10. And especially for a filamentary woven fabric with, for example, less than 3000 TPM and greater than 1000 TPM, the TS7 value can be less than 15. This value is related to softness and corresponds to that of the filament woven fabric.

[0031] According to another embodiment, the TS750 value measured by the TSA fabric softness analyzer, especially for a filamentary Lyocell woven fabric containing or consisting of Lyocell yarns with less than 300 TPM, can be less than 30. In particular, for a filamentary Lyocell woven fabric containing or consisting of Lyocell yarns with 200 to 1000 TPM, it can be less than 20. And especially for a filamentary Lyocell woven fabric containing or consisting of yarns with greater than 1000 and especially less than 3500 TPM, it can be less than 7.

[0032] For materials considered to be superior to silk, wash resistance in a domestic washing machine is essential. In particular, the shrinkage rate of the filament woven fabric according to the invention should be small. This can be achieved if the combined shrinkage rate, i.e., the sum of the absolute values of the shrinkage percentage of the fabric in the warp direction and the weft direction as determined according to DIN EN ISO 5077 after one wash and / or five washes according to DIN EN ISO 6330, and / or the shrinkage rate in the warp and / or weft direction consisting of or containing lyocell filaments, is not more than 11% in the conditioned state 65 / 20 after the first wash. In particular, for the woven fabric according to the invention, it has warp and / or weft containing or consisting of lyocell yarns and having at least 1500 TPM. The combined shrinkage rate and / or especially the shrinkage rate in the direction of the warp and / or weft consisting of or containing lyocell filaments can be less than 2%, especially if the yarn consisting of or containing lyocell filaments has less than 500 TPM.

[0033] The conditioned state 65 / 20, abbreviated as cond. 65 / 20, describes a state in which the yarn or fabric has reached equilibrium with its surroundings. Here, the surroundings have an ambient temperature of 20 °C and a relative humidity of 65%.

[0034] The above sums apply in particular to filament woven fabrics comprising or consisting of lyocell yarns having 1500 to 3000 TPM, especially 1750 to 2250 TPM. For lyocell yarns having 500 to 1750 TPM, the sum of the shrinkage rates can be less than 4%. For lyocell yarns having 0 to 500 TPM, it can be less than 3%.

[0035] Using the same test conditions according to DIN EN ISO 6330 and DIN EN ISO 5077 and after five washes, the sum of the absolute values of the shrinkage rates can be less than 19%, especially for filament woven fabrics comprising or consisting of the following: lyocell yarns having 1500 to 3500 TPM, especially 1750 to 2250 TPM. For lyocell yarns having 500 to 1750 TPM, the sum of the shrinkage percentages in the warp and weft directions can be less than 5%. For lower TPM values (e.g., 0 to 500 TPM), the sum can be less than 2%.

[0036] After one wash and / or five washes, the AATCC durable press rating determined according to DIN EN ISO 15487 can also represent the resilience of the filament woven fabric according to the invention. In particular, the filament woven fabric according to the invention can have an AATCC durable press rating of at least 3 after the first wash and 4 to 8 after the fifth wash.

[0037] Both the AATC Durable Press Rating and the Shrinkage value independently demonstrate the superior wash durability of the filamentary fabrics of the present invention over synthetic filamentary and silk woven fabrics.

[0038] In the color fastness test according to DIN EN 20105 A02, the filamentary woven fabric of the present invention may have a rating of at least 5 after the first wash and / or may have a rating of at least 4 after the fifth wash. Washing is carried out according to DIN EN ISO 6330.

[0039] The moisture regain of a fabric measured according to ASTM D 1909 is an indicator of the comfort level. Mulberry silk has a moisture regain of 11%. Tests of lyocell filaments show a moisture regain of 13%, therefore, similar or even better wearing comfort is expected. The standard moisture absorption of lyocell filaments at 20° C. and 65% relative humidity is greater than 10 wt % of their dry weight. Therefore, fabrics containing or consisting of lyocell filaments already have a dry touch similar to silk.

[0040] The filamentary lyocell woven fabric according to the present invention may contain at least 10% lyocell. This content already ensures dimensional stability. In order to produce a filamentary lyocell woven fabric with a unique touch, superior dimensional stability and high resistance, more than 30% lyocell may be contained. Lyocell filaments may be blended with synthetic filaments such as viscose fibers and / or other staple fibers.

[0041] The filamentous lyocell woven fabrics of the present invention may be any style, weave or finish suitable for production with continuous filament yarns and resulting in a silk-like feel. They may be constructed as plain weaves, twills, satins, weft satins, basket weaves, ribbed weaves and fancy weaves. The fabrics may be woven using any loom suitable for weaving continuous filament yarns, including shuttle looms, rapier looms, projectile looms or ribbon looms.

[0042] Filamentary woven fabrics produced using continuous filament lyocell yarns can have similar aesthetics and appearance to fabrics produced from continuous filament viscose yarns, but with significantly better physical properties. The higher strength and modulus of the yarns result in improved fabric breaking strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance, and stability. The properties of the wet fabric are also superior.

[0043] For example, a 70 g·m -2 The woven lining fabric of Lyocell has a similar sheen, feel and appearance to fabrics of the same weight and construction produced using continuous filament viscose. However, the properties of Lyocell fabric are significantly better.

[0044] The filamentary woven fabrics according to the present invention and made therefrom using continuous filament lyocell yarns can be used to produce outerwear garments, linings for structured garments, lingerie and underwear.

[0045] The present invention also relates to the use of lyocell filaments in any of the above-described configurations in ladies' or men's clothing.

[0046] The present invention will be described below by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawings and with reference to test samples.

[0047] Figure 1 A ladies' or men's clothing 1 is schematically shown, which is at least partially made of a filamentary woven material 2. The clothing 1 is only schematically shown as a shirt or blouse, but is not limited thereto. Depending on the width and configuration of the filamentary woven fabric of the present invention, the clothing 1 can also be a dress, a suit, a costume, a jacket, trousers or a combination of these clothing items and / or a part thereof.

[0048] The filamentary woven fabric 2 includes weft yarns 4 and warp yarns 6 which are preferably twisted. At least one of the weft yarn 4 and the warp yarn contains lyocell filaments.

[0049] Examples of the twisted warp and / or weft yarns 6, 4 are shown in Figures 2 to 4 . Figure 2 A two-ply yarn 4, 6 with an S twist is shown. At least one of the filaments 8 is a lyocell filament. Figure 3 A two-ply yarn 4, 6 with a Z twist is shown. Again, at least one of the filaments 8 is a lyocell filament.

[0050] Figure 4 A three-ply yarn 4, 6 with a Z twist is shown, where at least one filament 8 is a lyocell filament.

[0051] The twist of the yarns 4, 6 can be between 50 and 3500 TPM. The lighter the material, the higher the twist may be.

[0052] In order to study the better quality of the filamentary woven fabric according to the present invention compared to silk, samples were prepared and compared with a comparative example made of silk. Silk is the benchmark against which any filamentary woven fabric must compete. Using the following tests, samples of the filamentary woven fabric of the present invention were compared with a comparative example made of silk:

[0053] Tests

[0054] - Martindale abrasion test according to DIN EN ISO 12947-2;

[0055] - Martindale pilling test according to DIN EN ISO 12945-2;

[0056] - Wash shrinkage according to DIN EN ISO 5077; The sum of the absolute values of the shrinkage rates in two sample directions is taken as the combined shrinkage rate;

[0057] - Rub fastness according to ISO 105 X12;

[0058] - AATCC permanent press rating according to DIN EN ISO 15487;

[0059] - Air permeability according to DIN EN ISO 9237;

[0060] - Color fastness according to DIN EN 20105-A02;

[0061] - Yarn strength of warp and weft according to DIN EN ISO 2062.

[0062] If the sample is subjected to washing, it is washed according to DIN EN ISO 6330. All standards mentioned in this application are incorporated by reference in their entirety.

[0063] Samples of filament woven fabrics are prepared as follows. Accordingly, the weight is determined according to DIN EN 12127. The yarn count in the weft and warp is carried out according to DIN 53820-3. The yarn density is determined according to DIN EN 1049 / 2.

[0064] Samples 1 and 2 - Lightweight filamentary lyocell woven fabrics

[0065] Samples 1 and 2 are produced to obtain a lightweight filamentary woven material of approximately 30 g·m -2 of the light filamentary woven material.

[0066] Sample 1 is a filament woven fabric in which both the weft and warp are made of high-luster yarns of dtex40f30. The yarn consists of 100% lyocell filaments. The measured average linear density of the single filaments in the warp is 1.36 dtex, and that in the weft is 1.32 dtex. The twist of each yarn is 1650 TPM (twists per meter). This material is based on a 100% silk thick crepe fabric as Comparative Example 1.

[0067] Sample 2 is a filament woven fabric in which the warp is made of 100% high-luster lyocell yarns of dtex 40f30 with 1650 TPM. The weft is made of 100% high-luster lyocell yarns of dtex 80f60 with 2000 TPM. The measured average linear density of the single filaments in the warp is 1.35 dtex, and that in the weft is 1.38 dtex. This material is based on a 100% silk georgette fabric as Comparative Example 2. Table 1 gives an overview of the construction, materials, and properties of Samples 1 and 2, as well as Comparative Examples 1 and 2.

[0068] Samples 1 and 2 are treated in the same way as follows.

[0069] First, the fabric was processed on a jig dyeing machine by pre-scouring in a bath containing 2 g / l anionic detergent and 2 g / l sodium carbonate at 70°C for 30 minutes. Then the fabric was rinsed in warm water to remove the chemicals.

[0070] Then the fabric was dyed using the following procedure: The dye bath was set at 60°C and it had 50 g / l sodium sulfate. After running for 5 minutes, 8% owg Remazol Midnight Black RGB (a bis-reactive vinyl sulfone dye) was added in portions over 15 minutes. After continuing to run the fabric end-to-end for 15 minutes, 18 g / l sodium carbonate was metered into the dye bath over 30 minutes. Dyeing continued for another 30 minutes to allow time for the dye to fix.

[0071] Then the dye bath was drained and the fabric was washed in 6 baths as follows: (1) warm water at 50°C, (2) neutralized in 1 cc / l acetic acid (70%) at 70°C for 10 minutes, (3) water at 80°C, (4) boiled in an anionic detergent at 95°C for 10 minutes, (5) water at 80°C, (6) cold water. Then washing was completed by treating in 1 g / l anionic detergent at 95°C for 15 minutes and further rinsed until the wash liquor was clear.

[0072] Then the fabric was removed from the jig dyeing machine and after removing excess water by suction slitting, the fabric was dried on a stenter frame at 110°C.

[0073] After drying, the fabric was resinated as follows: Pad at 75% liquor pick-up on 45 g / l Fixapret ECO (a DMDHEU resin from BASF), 20 g / l Siligen VN (softener), 14 g / l Siligen SIN (softener), 15 g / l magnesium chloride, 1 g / l acetic acid, 1 g / l Kieralon Jet B concentrate (wetting agent); pad at 70 - 80% liquor pick-up; dry at 120°C and then cure at 170°C for 3 minutes on a stenter frame.

[0074] The black fabric is suitable for use as a wash-resistant fabric for blouses, dresses, and shirts.

[0075] Applying the resin prevents fibrillation during washing.

[0076] As can be seen from the test results, samples 1 and 2 of the filament woven fabric of the present invention are wash-resistant and have a combined shrinkage rate (the sum of the absolute shrinkage rate in the warp direction and the absolute shrinkage rate in the weft direction) comparable to that of silk. The higher shrinkage rate of sample 2 in the weft direction is caused by the high TPM value of 2000. The AATCC durable press grades of samples 1 and 2 exceed those of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 respectively, and the same is true for color fastness.

[0077] Samples 3 and 4 - Medium-weight filamentary Lyocell woven fabrics

[0078] Samples 3 and 4 were produced to obtain medium-weight filamentary woven materials in the range of 70 to 100 g·m -2 The structure, materials and properties of samples 3 and 4 are summarized in Table 2.

[0079] The warp of sample 3 consists of 100% high-luster Lyocell yarn, which is made only of Lyocell filaments dtex80f60 and has 200 TPM. The average linear mass of the measured single filament count is 1.35 dtex. The weft is made of high-luster Lyocell cut fibers TENCEL Ne40 / 1. According to the material analysis, the linear mass of the cut fibers is 1.3 dtex. This yarn is a Z ring-spun yarn.

[0080] In sample 4, 100% high-luster Lyocell filament yarn dtex80f60 with 200 TPM was used for both the warp and the weft. The average linear mass of the measured filaments is 1.38 dtex in the warp and 1.32 dtex in the weft.

[0081] Samples 3 and 4 were treated on a jig dyeing machine, where the fabric was pre-scoured in a bath containing 2 g / l anionic detergent and 2 g / l sodium carbonate at 70 °C for 30 minutes. Then the fabric was rinsed in warm water to remove the chemicals.

[0082] Then the fabric was dyed as follows. The dye bath was set at 60 °C and had 50 g / l sodium sulfate. After running for 5 minutes, 8% owg Remazol Midnight Black RGB (a dual-reactive vinyl sulfone dye) was added in portions over 15 minutes. After continuing to run the fabric end-to-end for 15 minutes, 20 g / l sodium carbonate was metered into the dye bath over 30 minutes. Dyeing continued for another 40 minutes to allow time for the dye to fix.

[0083] Then the dye bath is drained and the fabric is washed in six baths as follows: (1) warm water at 50 °C, (2) neutralized in 1 cc / l acetic acid (70%) for 10 minutes at 70 °C, (3) water at 80 °C, (4) boiled in an anionic detergent for 10 minutes at 95 °C, (5) water at 80 °C, (6) cold water. The washing is then completed by treating for 15 minutes in 1 g / l anionic detergent at 95 °C and further rinsed until the wash liquor is clear.

[0084] Then the fabric is removed from the winch dyeing machine and, after removing the excess water by suction slits, the fabric is dried on a stenter frame at 110 °C.

[0085] The black fabric is suitable for a wide range of textile applications and is suitable for home laundering without fibrillation.

[0086] Table 2 gives the fabric composition and properties of Samples 3 and 4.

[0087] From the comparison of Samples 1 and 2 on the one hand and Samples 3 and 4 on the other hand, it can be seen that the color fastness is not affected by the weight of the filament woven fabric. However, for filament woven fabrics with a higher weight and lower TPM, the abrasion resistance and shrinkage are significantly improved.

[0088] Samples 5 and 6 - Heavy filament Lyocell woven fabrics

[0089] Two samples of heavy filament Lyocell woven fabrics having a weight of 100 - 200 g·m -2 with a plain / Panama weave and suitable for use as apparel product uses are compared with Douppion Taffeta and Panama fabrics.

[0090] The heavy filament Lyocell woven fabrics are treated on a winch dyeing machine in the same manner as Samples 1 to 4 above.

[0091] Sample 5 is a Douppion Taffeta fabric of 168 g·m -2 The warp and weft yarns have the same structure. Each yarn is 180 filaments and is formed of a bi - filament structure that contains Lyocell filaments as the thick filaments and silk filaments as the thin filaments, resulting in a composition of 75% Lyocell filaments and 25% mulberry silk.

[0092] Sample 6 is a Douppion Panama fabric having 202 g·m -2 and contains the same yarns as Sample 5.

[0093] Table 3 gives more details of the materials and properties of Samples 5 and 6.

[0094] Sample 5 is taken as Comparative Example 5 at 167 g·m -2The silk douppioni taffeta fabric is used as a reference point. Sample 6 is compared with 180 g·m of silk douppioni Panama as Comparative Example 6. -2 of silk douppioni Panama.

[0095] As can be seen from Table 3, the inventive filamentary lyocell woven fabrics of Samples 5 and 6 exhibit better air permeability than the silk comparative examples and have great superiority in the Martindale abrasion test. In addition, the shrinkage rates of filamentary lyocell Samples 5 and 6 are significantly lower compared to silk Comparative Examples 5 and 6.

[0096] TSA test

[0097] The TSA test was conducted to verify that the tactile quality of the inventive filamentary lyocell woven fabric corresponds to that of silk and that Samples 1 to 4 are indeed filamentary.

[0098] Two main tactile qualities of silk are softness and smoothness. To objectively evaluate these properties, the TSA test was conducted.

[0099] The TSA test is described in Schlosser et al., “Griffbeurteilung von Textilien mittels Schallanalyse”, Meilland Textilberichte, 1 / 2102, pp. 43 - 45, and in “Neue und Objektive Messtechnik für Softness - Analyse” in avr - Allgemeiner Vliesstoff report 5 / 2015, pp. 99 - 101. Initially developed for measuring the softness and smoothness of thin non - woven fabrics (tissue) and non - woven fabrics using sound spectra, it has now been adapted to also evaluate the softness and smoothness of woven fabrics.

[0100] The TSA test was performed using a TSA Tissue Softness Analyzer device from emtec electronics GmbH, Germany, and the software ESM shipped with the TSA. The TSA measures the sound spectrum that is generated by pressing a star - shaped object against the sample fabric with a defined force and rotating it. For the test, the fabric is clamped around its perimeter and not otherwise supported, especially relative to the rotating body. In the TSA test conducted here, the software and its evaluation algorithm were not used. Instead, the sound pressure measured by the TSA at 7 kHz (TS7) (in dB·V 2 ·rms) was used as an objective indirect measure of softness, and the sound pressure at 750 Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by the TSA (in dB·V 2·The rms (in units) is used as an objective and indirect measure of smoothness. The unit V corresponds to the rotational speed of the rotating body. Directly using these values avoids any problems caused by the EMS algorithm developed for thin non-woven fabrics rather than woven fabrics. For each sample, the TSA test is performed with a total of four probes.

[0101] For testing, a fabric sample with a diameter of 11 cm is clamped as required by the TSA device and tested without stretching.

[0102] The results of the TSA test are given in Table 4. A lower TS7 value indicates a higher softness, and a lower TS750 value indicates a higher smoothness value.

[0103] From the values of TS750 and TS7, it can be seen that the four filamentary lyocell woven fabrics have different tactile sensations. The comparison of the TS750 values (smoothness) shows that Samples 1 and 2 are smoother than Samples 3 and 4, which is expected because Samples 3 and 4 represent heavier and coarser fabrics. The values of TS7 (softness) indicate that Samples 3 and 4 are softer than Samples 1 and 2 because they have a greater thickness and a looser yarn structure due to a lower TSM value. This effect can also be observed by comparing Sample 1 with Sample 2, where Sample 1 has a higher softness.

[0104] The comparison of the TS7 and TS750 values shows that the softness and smoothness of the filamentary fabrics containing lyocell filaments can be comparable to those of the comparative examples made of silk. This is the case for both georgette fabrics (Samples 2 and Comparative Example 2) and thick crepe fabrics (Samples 1 and Comparative Example 1).

[0105] Samples 7, 8, and 9 are prepared as follows to demonstrate the possibility of adding a peach skin effect to filamentary lyocell woven fabrics.

[0106] Sample 7

[0107] A filamentary lyocell woven fabric is produced with a 2x1 twill structure and a weight of 120 g·m -2 weight.

[0108] First, the fabric is prepared flat in the conventional range to remove any sizing or lubricant present.

[0109] After the initial preparation, the fabric is treated in 40 g / l NaOH by impregnation on a tenter frame mercerizing machine and then washed in boiling water to remove the residual alkali.

[0110] Then the causticized fabric is processed on an air-flow dyeing machine.

[0111] Dyeing was carried out using a conventional application method: The dye bath was set at 80 °C and 50 g / l sodium sulfate was added within 10 minutes. Then, 3% owg Novocron Brilliant Red FN-3GL dye was added in three parts within 20 minutes. The bath was circulated for 20 minutes and then cooled to 60 °C at 1.5 °C / min. Then, 20 g / l sodium carbonate was added within 30 minutes. Dyeing was continued for another 30 minutes to complete the fixation of the dye. Then, the dye bath was drained and the fabric was washed in water at 50 °C.

[0112] Then the fabric was washed in 1 cc / l acetic acid (60%) to neutralize.

[0113] Washing was completed by treating the fabric in 1 g / l detergent at 95 °C for 10 minutes, then rinsing at 50 °C and finally cooling.

[0114] Then, the fabric was softened in 2% silicone softener - Megasoff JET-LF from Huntsman. Then the fabric was unloaded from the dyeing machine and dried by tumbling on a Biancalani Airo rope tumbler. Finally, the fabric was mounted on a stentering frame.

[0115] The resulting fabric is a woven fabric with a peach skin effect, suitable for fashion clothing or blouses.

[0116] Sample 8

[0117] A filament lyocell woven fabric was produced in a 2x1 twill structure, 120 g·m -2 weight.

[0118] First, the fabric was prepared flat in the conventional range to remove any sizing or lubricant present.

[0119] After the initial preparation, the fabric was treated in 40 g / l NaOH by impregnation on a padder mangle and then washed in boiling water to remove the residual alkali.

[0120] The fabric was dried on a stentering frame to a certain size to obtain a stable fabric. Then the fabric was cut and sewn into a ladies' shirt garment.

[0121] Then the garment was dyed on a closed bag garment dyeing machine at a liquid-to-finished product ratio of 10:1. Dyeing was carried out using a conventional application method: The dye bath was set at 80 °C and 50 g / l sodium sulfate was added within 10 minutes. Then, 3% owg Novocron Brilliant Red FN-3GL dye was added in three parts within 20 minutes. The bath was circulated for 20 minutes and then cooled to 60 °C at 1.5 °C / min. Then, 20 g / l sodium carbonate was added within 30 minutes. Dyeing was continued for another 30 minutes to complete the fixation of the dye.

[0122] Then drain the dye bath, and then wash the fabric in water at 50 °C. Then wash the garment in 1 cc / l acetic acid (60%) to neutralize. The washing is completed by treating the fabric in 1 g / l detergent at 95 °C for 10 minutes, then rinsing at 50 °C and finally cooling.

[0123] Finally, soften the garment in 2% silicone softener - Megasoft JET-LF from Huntsman.

[0124] Remove the garment from the garment dyeing machine and dry it in a tumble dryer after dewatering. After drying, press the garment.

[0125] The finished garment has an attractive peached touch and a casual look from the wrinkled and prominent seams.

[0126] Sample 9

[0127] Construct a woven fabric using filament Lyocell warp (120 dtex) and cut fiber Lyocell 1 / 50 Ne weft. The fabric is woven to have 50 warp yarns and 40 weft yarns to form a 2x1 twill structure.

[0128] First, singe the fabric to remove excess hair, and then prepare it flat in the conventional range to remove any size or lubricant present.

[0129] After the initial preparation, treat the fabric in 90 g / l NaOH by impregnation on a Beck mercerizing machine, and then wash it in boiling water to remove the residual alkali.

[0130] Then process the causticized fabric on an air flow dyeing machine.

[0131] First, subject the fabric to treatment in 2 g / l soda ash and 2 g / l fabric lubricant, run at 100 °C for 60 minutes, and then rinse to remove the alkali. This causes so-called primary fibrillation.

[0132] Then treat the fabric in cellulase as follows to remove excessive fibrillation from the fabric surface: at 55 °C at pH 5.5 (adjusted with acetic acid), in 1% Genencor BP CC, run the treatment bath for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes, raise the treatment batch to 80 °C for 10 minutes to denature the cellulase.

[0133] After washing to remove excess chemicals and fiber debris, the fabric is dyed using a conventional application method: The dye bath is set at 80 °C and 50 g / l sodium sulfate is added within 10 minutes. Then, 3% owg Novocron Brilliant Red FN-3GL dye is added in three parts within 20 minutes. The bath is circulated for 20 minutes and then cooled to 60 °C at 1.5 °C / min. Then, 20 g / l sodium carbonate is added within 30 minutes. Dyeing is continued for another 30 minutes to complete the fixation of the dye.

[0134] Then the dye bath is drained, and the fabric is washed in water at 50 °C. Then the fabric is washed in 1 cc / l acetic acid (60%) to neutralize. Washing is completed by treating the fabric in 1 g / l detergent at 95 °C for 10 minutes, then rinsing at 50 °C and finally cooling.

[0135] The fabric is softened in 2% silicone softener - Megasoff JET-LF from Huntsman. Then the fabric is removed from the dyeing machine and dried by tumbling on a Biancalani Airo rope tumbler. Finally, the fabric is mounted on a stentering frame.

[0136] The resulting fabric is a woven fabric with a peached effect, suitable for fashion clothing or blouses.

[0137] Bleaching Test

[0138] To compare the resistance of woven fabrics using Lyocell filaments to aggressive finishing with the resistance of silk to aggression, tests were conducted on washed and bleached samples and comparative examples. Although these tests have been carried out using denim Blended Lyocell constructions, the results are equally applicable to filamentary Lyocell materials, as the resistance of the fibers is independent of the weave pattern used.

[0139] As Sample 10, denim S978-100-814 was used, where the warp is 100% cotton and the weft is 100% Lyocell filament yarn of 100 dtex. This material was benchmarked against denim S840-814 with 100% cotton warp and 100% silk double-twist weft as Comparative Example 7.

[0140] Sample 10 and Comparative Example 10 were fixed at 195 °C for 45 seconds.

[0141] Powerful Bleaching

[0142] Sample 10 and Comparative Example 10 were bleached as follows:

[0143] Pre-scouring is carried out with 2.5 kg of fabric and 150 l of liquid at a liquor ratio of 1:60. For pre-washing, 2 g / l of Persoftal L, 0.5 g / l of NaOH 100% (1 g / l of NaOH 50%) and 0.2 g / l of Lava Sperse KDS concentrate are used. The pre-scouring is carried out at 60 °C (maximum heating rate) for 20 minutes.

[0144] After that, it is cooled to 40 °C and then cold-rinsed with 300 l.

[0145] Bleaching is carried out at a liquor ratio of 1:60 and 15 rpm cold for 30 minutes, again with 2.5 kg of fabric and 150 l of liquid containing 2 g / l of soda and 0.4 g / l of Lava Sperse KDS concentrate. The pH value is checked and maintained at pH 10. As the bleaching agent, 3 g / l of active chlorine (20 ml / l of bleaching lye 150 g / l) is used.

[0146] Then the liquid is drained, and the material is cold-rinsed with 300 l and warm-rinsed with 150 l as above.

[0147] Dechlorination is carried out with 2 ml / l of 50% hydrogen peroxide at 40 °C for 30 minutes.

[0148] Then it is cold-rinsed with 300 l, warm-rinsed with 150 l at 50 °C for 5 minutes (heating starts from the start of rinsing), and then cold-rinsed with 300 l.

[0149] Then, enzymatic washing is carried out as follows, followed by rinsing, regeneration and tumble drying:

[0150] After rinsing, enzymatic washing is carried out with 2.5 kg of fabric and 150 l of liquid again at a liquor ratio of 1:60 at 22 rpm. The liquid contains 2 g / l of Persoftal L, 3 g / l of Peristal E and 0.3 g / l of Lavasperse KDS concentrate. The pH value is maintained between pH 4.5 - 5. After heating to 55 °C at the maximum heating rate, the pH value is checked before adding the enzyme, and then the material is treated at 55 °C for 55 minutes. Then the material is heated to 85 °C and treated at 85 °C for 15 minutes.

[0151] Then the liquid is drained, and the material is rinsed as follows: First, cold-rinsed with 300 l, then warm-rinsed with 150 l, where heating starts from the filling of the second rinsing step. Continue warm-rinsing at 50 °C for 5 minutes. Finally, cold-rinsed with 300 l.

[0152] After heating at the maximum rate, at 15 minutes and 40 °C, regeneration was carried out using 2% Tubingal RGH, 1% Tubingal RWM, 3 g / l Peristal E at a liquor ratio of 1:60 as described above.

[0153] The liquid was then drained, and the material was tumbled dry at 80 °C for 50 minutes and then allowed to cool for 20 minutes.

[0154] Thereby, Sample 11 and Comparative Example 11 were obtained.

[0155] Table 5 summarizes the structure, materials, and properties of Samples 10 and 11 and Comparative Examples 10 and 11, respectively. It can be seen that the silk material cannot withstand bleaching, while the Lyocell filament yarn still exhibits sufficient yarn strength. Therefore, it is concluded that the filament woven Lyocell fabric of the present invention can be bleached, which results in a new class of fabrics, namely bleached filament woven fabrics.

[0156] In summary, it has been demonstrated that the Lyocell filament woven fabric according to the present invention has objective properties similar to silk in terms of softness and sweat exudation. Therefore, the Lyocell filament woven fabric is truly filamentous.

[0157] For thick crepe and georgette fabrics, as demonstrated by the Martindale abrasion test, the Lyocell filament woven fabric according to the present invention has much better abrasion resistance than silk. The color fastness of the new filamentous Lyocell woven fabric is 1 to 0.5 degrees better than that of silk.

[0158] After washing, the filamentous thick crepe has better pilling and fuzzing properties compared to the silk thick crepe. In addition, the durable press grade after washing is improved compared to the washed silk thick crepe.

[0159] The filamentous georgette undergoes less shrinkage than the silk georgette.

[0160] And finally, the resistance of the filamentous Lyocell woven fabric to aggressive finishing opens the door to the production of new filamentous fabrics that were not previously available.

[0161] Table 1 - Comparison of lightweight filamentous Lyocell and silk woven fabrics

[0162]

[0163]

[0164]

[0165] Table 2 - Test results of medium-weight filamentous Lyocell fabrics

[0166]

[0167]

[0168] Table 3 - Comparison of heavy filament Lyocell and silk woven fabrics

[0169]

[0170]

[0171]

[0172] Table 4 - Results of TSA tests

[0173] Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 1 Comparative Example 2 Sample 2 Comparative Example 1 TS750 29 19 1 1 6 3 TS7 5 6 9 11 14 12

[0174] Table 5 - Samples for bleaching tests

[0175]

[0176]

Claims

1. A woven fabric (2) made of weft yarns (4) and warp yarns (6), wherein at least one of said weft yarns (4) and said warp yarns (6) comprises at least one lyocell filament yarn (8) or consists of at least one lyocell filament yarn (8), wherein, The woven fabric contains at least 10% of lyocell, wherein, after washing according to DIN EN ISO 6330, the sum of the absolute values of the shrinkage percentage in the warp direction and the shrinkage percentage in the weft direction of the fabric measured according to DIN EN ISO 5077 is not more than 11% after the first wash, under the conditioning state 65 / 20. Wherein the lyocell filament yarn (8) has at least 150 TPM and a linear mass density of not more than 100 dtex.

2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the lyocell filament yarn has at least 1,500 TPM.

3. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein after the first wash according to DIN EN 6330, the fabric shows at least 6,000 Martindale abrasion numbers to hole formation in the Martindale abrasion test according to DIN EN ISO 12947-1:2007-04.

4. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fabric has an AATCC durable press rating of at least 3 measured according to DIN EN ISO 15487 after the first wash according to DIN EN ISO 6330.

5. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fabric has a rating of not less than 5 in the color fastness test according to DIN EN 20105 A02 after the first wash according to DIN EN ISO 6330.

6. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the TS750 value of the fabric is not greater than 8.

7. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the TS7 value of the fabric is not greater than 10.

8. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the TS750 value of the fabric is not greater than 30.

9. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The fabric has at least 3 Martindales after 2,000 cycles determined by the Martindale pilling test according to DIN EN ISO 12945-2.

10. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein The fabric is one of a crepe fabric and a douppioni silk.

11. A ladies' garment or a men's garment or a bed linen, which comprises the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10 or consists of the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. A facing fabric, which comprises the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10 or consists of the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

13. A plain linen, which comprises the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10 or consists of the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

14. A shaped sheet, which comprises the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10 or consists of the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

15. A sheet fabric, which comprises the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10 or consists of the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

16. Use of lyocell filament yarn or yarns consisting of lyocell filament yarn in a woven fabric, wherein, The woven fabric is made of weft yarns and warp yarns, wherein at least one of the weft yarns and the warp yarns comprises at least one Lyocell filament yarn or consists of Lyocell filament yarns, wherein the woven fabric comprises at least 10% of Lyocell, and wherein, after washing according to DIN EN ISO 6330, the sum of the absolute values of the shrinkage percentage in the warp direction of the fabric and the shrinkage percentage in the weft direction, measured according to DIN EN ISO 5077, is not more than 11% in the conditioned state 65 / 20 after the first wash. Wherein, the Lyocell filament yarn has at least 150 TPM and a linear mass density of not more than 100 dtex.

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