Cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and related uses, particularly acting on the effects of blue light on the skin and its appendages

Abstract

The composition comprises or consists of chrysin, rosmarinic acid, at least one peptide or a derivative thereof having a sequence of 4 to 10 amino acids comprising the active sequence GQPR and a physiologically acceptable medium. The derivative corresponds to the peptide modified at the N-terminal end with an acyl (-CO-R 1 ), sulfonyl (-SO2-R 1 ) group or biotinoyl and / or at the C-terminal end with OR 1 , NH2, NHR 1 group or NR 1 R 2 , R 1 and R 2 being chosen independently of one another from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkaryl, alkoxy, sugar and aryloxy, which can be linear, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, unsaturated, hydroxyl, carbonyl, phosphorylated and / or sulfur-containing, said groups having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms and possibly having one or more O, S and / or N heteroatoms in their backbone. This composition acts on the effects of light radiation on the skin and / or its appendages, more particularly on the effects of blue light. It helps to counteract the harmful effects and at the same time increases the beneficial effects in a particularly advantageous manner by resynchronizing the circadian cycle.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition that addresses the effects of blue light on the skin and its appendages, and related uses. In particular, it is intended for the cosmetic, dermatological, hygiene, and personal care product industries (for use in humans and animals). Background Technology

[0002] Sun exposure has long been considered a factor increasing the risk of wrinkles, age spots, and sagging skin. The damage the sun inflicts on the skin and its appendages is inherently photochemical, inducing biochemical disturbances in biomolecules such as DNA, lipids, proteins, and sugars, and causing damage to organelles. Until recently, the effects of UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (280–320 nm) have been studied almost exclusively because these radiations are the most energetic and therefore more photoreactive. These two types of radiation (UV A and B) are known to have different effects on organisms. The effects of visible light have not received particular attention because their lower energy has led to their perceived lower risk.

[0003] Visible light is the solar spectrum ranging from 400 to 700 nm, while blue light ranges from 400 to 500 nm and includes violet, indigo, and blue. Blue light is close to UVA in wavelength, but its effects are at least partially different. This is the most energetic part of the visible spectrum, known as "high-energy visible light," and due to its wavelength, blue light radiation penetrates deeper into the skin than UVA radiation.

[0004] Natural doses of visible light radiation have beneficial effects on organisms. They are essential for the production of relaxing endorphins and the daily resynchronization of circadian rhythms (including all cyclical biological processes that last approximately 24 hours). This beneficial effect is manifested in particular through the action of opsin (OPN) levels, membrane proteins that trap light energy. When activated, opsin ensures control over melatonin production, and especially the expression of cycle 2 circadian rhythm proteins encoded by the PER2 gene. In women, OPN5 is present in the basal portion of the epidermis. OPN5 is stimulated by blue light and plays a beneficial role in the synchronization of skin circadian rhythm genes. Thus, the PER2 gene follows a wave-like production rhythm, increasing in the morning and decreasing at night. This process is significantly reduced in older adults. OPN5 and the circadian rhythm proteins controlled by OPN5 expression are now known to play a decisive role in the effective functioning of the skin. Among the known effects in this sense are: stabilization of intracellular production of oxidative free radicals (ROS) and pro-inflammatory cytokines, improved skin hydration associated with more effective barrier function, and reduced levels and activity of MMP1 (the major collagen-degrading enzyme). This demonstrates the benefit of high levels of OPN5 and Period2 circadian rhythm proteins in the skin.

[0005] However, these visible light radiations can also have negative effects at excessively high doses.

[0006] In an increasingly connected world, the amount of artificial blue light we are exposed to (especially blue light emitted from screens) constitutes a new type of pollution: digital pollution. The light emitted from screens can tire your eyes and cause them to squint, frown, and develop fine lines. It dulls skin tone and accelerates skin aging. Overexposure accelerates signs of aging, increasing the atrophic characteristics of the skin by altering fine lines, reducing its hydration, causing micro-inflammation, and changing the skin barrier and the underlying dermis.

[0007] The harmful effects of blue light at the cellular level are beginning to be better understood. Blue light stimulates the production of H2O2 and oxidative free radicals (ROS) through peroxisomes and mitochondria. Furthermore, a reduction in energy production in mitochondria has been observed. Reduced proliferative capacity of fibroblasts and keratinocytes has also been described through blue light. Studies on epidermal isotopes have shown that exposure to blue light induces increased production of ROS, MMP-1 (a protease responsible for collagen I degradation), and pro-inflammatory interleukins.

[0008] One of the particularly negative effects of blue light is its impact on melatonin, a molecule produced by the skin at night and known for its circadian rhythm regulation (e.g., promoting sleep). Too much blue light interferes with melatonin production. Within hours of exposure to blue light, circulating melatonin levels in volunteers dropped sharply. However, melatonin has positive effects. It has a direct antioxidant effect that reduces the toxicity of chemical molecules. It stimulates the mitochondrial electron transport chain and associated ATP production, thereby reducing H2O2 production and its conversion to OH-. o And less H2O2 leaks into the rest of the cell. Furthermore, melatonin can stimulate the activity of antioxidant enzymes involved in H2O2 detoxification, such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase, and glutathione peroxidase. In addition, melatonin and its byproducts exhibit pro-differentiation activity in keratinocytes. However, this is known to advantageously promote barrier establishment, maintain epidermal homeostasis, and protect the skin from sun damage.

[0009] Therefore, melatonin is a potential anti-aging agent, especially if it is produced in situ rather than supplied exogenously. Maintaining good skin levels of melatonin allows for localized and effective action against the harmful effects of UV or blue light radiation.

[0010] Ingredients with active effects against the harmful effects of blue light have been proposed for use in cosmetics, for example:

[0011] -Greentech's Phytobioactive effect (Buddleja officinalis) protects the skin from the harmful effects of light, especially blue light.

[0012] -SOLABIA Pepper is an antioxidant active substance that protects photoreceptors from photo-stress. Summary of the Invention

[0013] The purpose of this invention is to provide a cosmetic or dermatological composition that can act on the effects of light radiation, particularly blue light.

[0014] Therefore, the present invention provides a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising or consisting of the following:

[0015] -Poplarin;

[0016] -Rosemary acid;

[0017] - At least one peptide or a derivative thereof, having a sequence of 4 to 10 amino acids comprising the active sequence GQPR (SEQ ID NO 1); and

[0018] - Physiologically acceptable medium,

[0019] At least one derivative corresponding to the modified peptide:

[0020] -At the N-terminus, it is bound by an acyl group (-CO-R) 1 ), sulfonyl (-SO2-R) 1 Modification with or without a biotinylate group; and / or

[0021] - OR at the C-terminus 1 NH2, NHR 1 or NR 1 R 2 Modification;

[0022] -R 1 and R 2 The groups are independently selected from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy, sugar, and aryloxy groups, which may be straight-chain, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, unsaturated, hydroxyl, carbonyl, phosphorylated, and / or sulfur-containing, and the groups have 1 to 24 carbon atoms and may have one or more O, S, and / or N heteroatoms in their main chain.

[0023] Advantageously, the inventors have demonstrated that the compositions according to the invention act on the effects of light irradiation on the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly on the effects of blue light. In particular, due to the invention, and in a particularly advantageous manner, while also increasing the beneficial effects of blue light by resynchronizing the diurnal cycle, the harmful effects of blue light are prevented and counteracted.

[0024] Furthermore, and surprisingly, the synergistic effect among the three components of the composition according to the invention has been demonstrated in the inhibition test of inflammatory markers described below.

[0025] More specifically, and as demonstrated by the tests given below, the compositions according to the invention allow the skin to utilize the benefits of blue light, for example, by stimulating the synthesis of opsin 5, which, as mentioned above, represents one of the blue light photoreceptors that synchronize the day-night cycle and enhance epidermal homeostasis.

[0026] Furthermore, through its ability to produce melatonin in skin cells, the composition according to the invention can effectively combat the harmful effects of blue light (oxidation, inflammation, skin degradation, mitochondrial dysfunction, etc.).

[0027] This effect at the cellular level can limit the effects of high exposure on the skin, especially blue light exposure: dull skin tone, skin fatigue, and accelerated aging.

[0028] Based on preferred features:

[0029] -The salicylic acid is present at a concentration of 0.2 to 20,000 ppm by weight, preferably 2 to 2,000 ppm by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0030] - Rosmarinic acid is present at a concentration of 0.1 to 10,000 ppm by weight, preferably 1 to 1,000 ppm by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0031] - The peptides are present at a concentration of 0.5 to 50,000 ppm by weight, preferably 5 to 5,000 ppm by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] This invention relates to the use of apigenin (5,7-dihydroxyflavone). It also covers its analogues and derivatives. This includes apigenin analogues having a flavonoid or flavonoid structure, preferably substituted flavonoid-5,7 structures (especially quercetin, apigenin, luteolin, or geraniol). As derivatives, techtochrysin and 5-methyl ether apigenin may be mentioned. apigenin or one of its analogues or derivatives may be provided in the form of a plant extract, such as an extract of *Oroxylum indicum*.

[0033] Rosmarinic acid can also be provided in the form of plant extracts, particularly from many plants of the Lamiaceae, Boraginaceae, and Apiaceae families, preferably in the form of rosemary extracts.

[0034] Aspergillus and rosmarinic acid are particularly well-known in cosmetics for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

[0035] Based on other preferred features:

[0036] - The peptide or its derivative comprises 4 to 8 amino acids corresponding to the sequence GQPR (SEQ ID NO 1), preferably 4 to 6 amino acids, and more preferably 4 amino acids, wherein the amino acids outside the GQPR sequence (SEQ ID NO 1) (when present) are preferably selected from 20 natural amino acids; and / or

[0037] -R 1 and / or R 2 Alkyl chains corresponding to 3 to 24 carbon atoms; and / or

[0038] -Derived peptides corresponding to acyl CO-R 1 The N-terminal position contains a single modification; and / or

[0039] -acyl-CO-R 1 Selected from octanoyl (C8), decanoyl (C10), lauroyl (C12), myristoyl (C14), palmitoyl (C16), stearoyl (C18), biotinoyl, elaidoyl, oleoyl, and lipoyl.

[0040] The peptides according to the invention may be optically pure or composed of L or D isomers or mixtures thereof. Those L isomers that are naturally occurring are preferred. The peptides may optionally be in the form of salts, particularly hydrochlorides or acetates.

[0041] Peptides can be natural peptides obtained through extraction and purification, or obtained through chemical synthesis or biosynthesis by microorganisms, particularly genetically modified microorganisms (e.g., microalgae). This invention also covers complexes of said peptides or derivatives with other substances, such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, etc.).

[0042] The peptides according to the invention can also be used in a carrier form by binding, incorporating or adsorbing onto / to large, micro or nanoparticles (such as capsules, spheres, liposomes, oleosomes, chylomicrons, sponges), in the form of micron or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed onto, for example, powdered organic polymers, talc, bentonite, spores or outer membranes and other inorganic or organic supports.

[0043] Preferably, the composition comprises the commercially derived peptide Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO 2); INCI name: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises or consists of apigenin, rosemary extract and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO 2).

[0044] The results of the in vitro studies are given in the following description. They demonstrate the efficacy of the combination of the three active ingredients according to the invention in the following ways:

[0045] - Stimulates the production of OPS5 on human keratinocytes (HK) under basal conditions or after blue light irradiation;

[0046] - Stimulate the production of Period2 protein on HK under basal conditions;

[0047] - Stimulates melatonin production in the HK under basal conditions or after blue light exposure;

[0048] - The maintenance of mitochondrial membrane potential in HK after blue light irradiation;

[0049] - The ability of HK to maintain or stimulate ATP synthesis under basal conditions or after blue light irradiation;

[0050] - Antioxidant effect on an experimental model of lipid membranes exposed to blue light;

[0051] -Reduction in MMP-1 production in HK after blue light irradiation;

[0052] - A decrease in two inflammatory markers, PGE-2 and IL-6, on the KH plate after blue light irradiation; and

[0053] - The ability to retain the contractile collagen gel on human fibroblasts (HF) after blue light irradiation.

[0054] Furthermore, in vivo tests on a group of volunteers showed the efficacy of the cream containing the composition according to the invention in improving the hydration, smoothness, luster, and tone of their skin, whose facial skin quality was affected by daily exposure to blue light from screens.

[0055] Therefore, the present invention also proposes the use of the compositions according to the invention for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatments of the skin and / or its appendages, particularly for treatments to prevent or treat photoaging effects.

[0056] More specifically, the use of the compositions according to the invention is proposed for preventing and / or treating the harmful effects of blue light and / or for enhancing its beneficial effects. This treatment improves hydration, smoothness, gloss, and / or skin tone. The treatment is preferably topical.

[0057] According to the present invention, "physiologically acceptable medium" means, but is not limited to, aqueous or water-alcohol solutions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, microemulsions, aqueous gels, anhydrous gels, serum, vesicle dispersions or powders.

[0058] "Physiologically acceptable" means that the composition is suitable for topical or transdermal use, and can come into contact with the mucous membranes, appendages (nail, hair), scalp, and skin of mammals (especially humans). The composition can be ingested or injected into the skin without the risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, or allergic reactions. This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms the substance commonly referred to as the excipient of the composition.

[0059] Any physiologically acceptable medium of any type known to those skilled in the art can be used to dissolve the active agent and formulate the composition according to the invention. Examples include: aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic, ethanol or aqueous ethanol solutions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, microemulsions, aqueous gels, anhydrous gels, serum, vesicle dispersions, or powders.

[0060] Furthermore, the compositions of the present invention can be used in a carrier form, bound, incorporated or adsorbed onto / to large particles, micron particles or nanoparticles (e.g., capsules, spheres, liposomes, oleosomes, chylomicrons, sponges), in the form of micron or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed onto, for example, organic polymer powders, talc, bentonite, spores or outer membranes and other inorganic or organic supports.

[0061] The compositions according to the invention can be provided in any galen formulation (examples are given in the description below) and can also be delivered via a fabric support made of natural or synthetic fibers, wool or any material suitable for skin contact, or can be used in clothing, such as day or night underwear, handkerchiefs or fabrics, so as to exert their cosmetic or dermatological effects through such skin contact / fabric and allow for continuous local delivery.

[0062] In a particularly advantageous manner, according to the invention, the composition may contain one or more other active agents adapted to act in a way that enhances activity and / or acts in a complementary manner on one or more other active substances.

[0063] Various other active substances used for this purpose are detailed below.

[0064] According to the present invention, a method for improving the aesthetic appearance of skin and its appendages is also provided, the method comprising applying to the skin a topical effective amount of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention as described above.

[0065] According to the present invention, “local treatment” or “local application” refers to an application intended to work at the site of application: skin, mucous membrane, appendage.

[0066] The composition according to the invention can be applied locally to a target area.

[0067] The "effective" dose depends on various factors, such as age, patient condition, severity of illness or pathology, and method of application. The effective dose indicates a non-toxic content sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

[0068] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition, and all measurements were performed at 25°C.

[0069] For example, for facial cosmetic treatments, European cosmetic guidelines have set the standard dosage for applying creams at 2.72 mg / cm³. 2 / day / person, and the standard amount for body lotion is 0.5mg / cm³. 2 /

[0070] Heaven / Human.

[0071] Depending on other specific features, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be combined with one or more other skin-targeting treatments, such as luminescence therapy, thermotherapy, vibration, electroporation, microneedle patches, or aromatherapy.

[0072] According to the present invention, an apparatus or kit having several compartments can be proposed for applying the above-described methods, which may include, for example, but not limited to, a first compartment containing an active ingredient according to the present invention and another active ingredient and / or excipient in a second compartment. In this case, the composition contained in the first and second compartments is considered to be a combination composition used simultaneously, separately, or stepwise in time, particularly in one of the above-described treatment methods.

[0073] The compositions according to the invention are also suitable for therapeutic treatment of the skin at appropriate doses. Invention Details

[0075] The invention will be better understood from the following embodiments and descriptions of in vitro and in vivo tests. A / Examples of preparation of preferred compositions according to the invention, forming a concentrated composition as a combination of three active ingredients according to the invention, intended for use in the manufacture of galen formulations (see paragraph D / ).

[0076] Ingredients include:

[0077] -Poplarin:

[0078] Source: Synthetic, at least 94% pure

[0079] Final concentration of apigenin in the composition: 200 ppm

[0080] --Rosemary acid:

[0081] Source: Leaf extract of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), containing at least 6% rosmarinic acid.

[0082] Final concentration of rosmarinic acid in the composition: 60 ppm

[0083] --Palmyl-GQPR-OH (SEQ ID NO 2), with a purity of at least 99%.

[0084] Source: Synthetic palmitoyl-GQPR-OH (SEQ ID NO 2) in the composition. Final concentration:

[0085] 750ppm

[0086] - Excipient: Glycolic acid type.

[0087] B / Synergistic effect test

[0088] plan

[0089] HK cells were cultured in their culture medium. After washing with PBS, the cells were returned to the same buffer and exposed to a non-cytotoxic dose of 30.2 J / cm². 2 The blue light. The display system consists of components distributed at 30cm. 2 A group of 30 blue LEDs on a flat surface. Photon flux reaches the cells vertically. Temperature is controlled, and all cells are enclosed in the same shell (37°C / 5% CO2). The emission spectrum is centered at 420 nm. The cells are then exposed to each compound of the invention individually or the composition according to the invention for 24 hours. The culture medium is then harvested, and the IL-6 concentration is determined by ELISA. Cell count is reduced using assays of the cell layer.

[0090] result

[0091] Changes in IL-6 in HK after blue light irradiation; the effect of the composition according to the invention compared to the sum of the effects of the compounds administered to the composition alone.

[0092] [Table 1]

[0093]

[0094] nsd = No significant difference.

[0095] These results demonstrate the synergistic effect when the three compounds are combined to combat the effects of blue light. Compared to the sum of the three compounds tested individually, the composition according to the invention showed a 46.2% improvement in the inhibition of IL-6 production (p<0.01).

[0096] C / In vitro efficacy testing of the compositions according to the present invention

[0097] The assay was performed on an equivalent of the preferred composition according to the invention: 750 ppm palmitoyl-GQPR-OH (SEQ ID NO 2), 200 ppm apigenin, and 1000 ppm rosemary extract (equivalent to 60 ppm rosmarinic acid in the composition). In tests on human fibroblasts (HF), this equivalent was used at 0.5%, 1%, or 2%. These concentrations are within the recommended concentration range for active ingredients in cosmetics intended for application to the skin.

[0098] [Table 2]

[0099]

[0100] For testing on human keratinocytes (HK), in vitro tests were performed on equivalents of the compositions according to the invention: 750 ppm palmitoyl-GQPR, 80 ppm apigenin, and 1000 ppm rosemary extract (equivalent to 60 ppm rosmarinic acid in the composition). These equivalents were used at 0.5%, 1%, or 2%. These concentrations are within the recommended concentration range for active ingredients in cosmetic compositions applied to the skin.

[0101] [Table 3]

[0102] 0.5% composition 1% composition 2% composition Pal-GQPR in ppm 3.75 7.5 15 Aspergillus tinctoria in ppm 0.4 0.8 1.6 Rosemary leaf extract containing 6% rosmarinic acid (per ppm) 5 10 20

[0103] Before introducing the aqueous test medium, guar gum and Pal-GQPR were pre-dissolved in DMSO (to 1000 times the final concentration used in the test). Rosemary leaf extract is directly soluble in the aqueous medium.

[0104] 1 / Reduce intracellular free radicals

[0105] plan

[0106] Normal human fibroblasts (HNF) were grown to confluence in their culture medium. The cells were then exposed to the composition according to the invention for 24 hours and subsequently subjected to fluorescent probes designed to label ROS generated within the cells.

[0107] After incorporation for 30 minutes and rinsing, the cells were again subjected to the composition according to the invention, without any substances or reagents intended to generate ROS (oxidative stress). The amount of intracellular ROS was estimated by fluorescence readings (e.g., 490 nm / em: 520 nm). Cell number was assessed using the Hoescht 33258 method (DNA staining) to obtain weighted data.

[0108] result

[0109] Changes in ROS production on NHF with and without oxidative stress (n=3)

[0110] [Table 4]

[0111] Research Status change(%) change(%) Comparison Reference 1 0.5% of the composition according to the invention -66％；p<0.01 1% of the composition according to the invention -69％；p<0.01 Control, oxidative stress +284％；p<0.01 Reference 2 0.5% of the composition according to the invention, oxidative stress -83％；p<0.01 1% of the composition according to the present invention, oxidative stress -82％；p<0.01

[0112] These results demonstrate that, under basal conditions or under oxidative stress, the compositions according to the invention reduce the intracellular content of ROS. In both cases, these reductions are significant and substantial, indicating the benefit of the compositions according to the invention in combating the emergence of intracellular ROS known to be involved in skin aging.

[0113] 2 / Production of Opsin-5 (OPN5)

[0114] 2.1 / ​​Determination by qRT-PCR (quantitative real-time reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction)

[0115] plan

[0116] Submerged HK cells were synchronized (all entering the same stage of the cell cycle) by exposure to DMEM medium containing 50% serum for 2 hours. After washing with PBS, the cells were returned to the same buffer and exposed to 30.2 J / cm². 2 The non-cytotoxic dose of blue light was used. The exposure system was the same as described in B) above. At the end of the exposure, irradiated or unirradiated cells were exposed to the composition according to the invention for 3 hours. Total RNA was then extracted, and the expression of the gene encoding OPN5 was assessed by qRT-PCR molecular biology methods.

[0117] result

[0118] Changes in OPN5 expression in HK after 3 hours of contact with the composition according to the invention (n=3)

[0119] [Table 5]

[0120] Research Status change(%) Control group, unirradiated Reference 1% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +158％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +246％；p<0.01 In contrast, blue light +182％；p<0.01 1% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light +226％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light +479％；p<0.01

[0121] These results clearly demonstrate that blue light can advantageously regulate the expression of the gene encoding the OPN5 protein in HK in vitro (+182% compared to the control). They also show that, compared to the control, the composition according to the invention strongly stimulates the expression of the OPN5 gene in the presence or absence of blue light.

[0122] 2.2 / Assay by immunocytochemistry

[0123] plan

[0124] Perform the same culture and irradiation protocol as described above (2.1 / ) on HK (or omit it for unirradiated cases). Expose irradiated or unirradiated cells to the composition according to the invention for 12 hours (or no exposure for controls). Next, label the cell layer with an anti-OPN5 protein antibody. Take photographs and analyze and compare the resulting images. Relabel the cell nuclei using the Hoescht 33258 method (DNA staining) for relabeling the cells and weight the results.

[0125] result

[0126] Changes in OPN5 expression in HK 12 hours after contact with the composition according to the invention (4 cultures / cases and 16 photographs / cultures).

[0127] [Table 6]

[0128] Research Status change(%) Control group, unirradiated Reference 1% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +98％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +106％；p<0.01 In contrast, blue light +62％；p<0.01 1% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light +224％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light +212％；p<0.01

[0129] These results confirm the data obtained in molecular biology:

[0130] - Exposure to blue light increased the production of OPN5 in the control group; and

[0131] - Compared to the control, in the presence or absence of irradiation, contact between cells and the composition according to the invention increased this production.

[0132] 3. Production of Period2 (circadian rhythm protein)

[0133] plan

[0134] Same as in 2.1 / above. At the end of exposure (only in the control case), unirradiated cells were exposed to the composition according to the invention (or no exposure for the control). Total RNA was extracted at 3 h, and the expression of the gene encoding PER2 was then assessed by qRT-PCR.

[0135] result

[0136] Changes in PER2 expression in HK after 3 hours of contact with the composition according to the invention (n=3).

[0137] [Table 7]

[0138] Research Status change(%) Control group, unirradiated Reference 1% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +32％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +29％；p<0.01 In contrast, blue light +84％；p<0.01

[0139] These results indicate that blue light stimulates the production of PER2 in cultured cells. This confirms that these cells possess adapted chromophores. Advantageously, it can be seen that PER2 is also stimulated by contacting cells with the composition according to the invention, but exposure to blue light is not required.

[0140] 4 / Melatonin production

[0141] plan

[0142] Same as in 2.1 / above. At the end of exposure, expose the irradiated or unirradiated cells to the composition according to the invention (or not for the control). Stop all cultures after 12 hours. Remove the culture medium and determine the amount of melatonin by ELISA. Normalize the results using the amount of total RNA found in the cell layer of each sample.

[0143] result

[0144] Changes in melatonin production in HK after 12 hours of contact with the composition according to the invention (n=3)

[0145] [Table 8]

[0146] Research Status change(%) change(%) Control group, unirradiated Reference 1 1% of the composition according to the invention +31%; DNS 2% of the composition according to the invention +71％；p<0.02 In contrast, blue light -38％；p<0.02 Reference 2 1% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light +106％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light +218％；p<0,01

[0147] These results indicate that, in the selected irradiation system, blue light reduced melatonin production by 38% (p<0.02). This appears to be related to the direct or indirect generation of ROS within cells by blue light, which "depletes" this natural antioxidant resource. Conversely, the composition according to the invention stimulates the production of this natural anti-aging molecule, with or without irradiation. In both cases, the stimulation is dose-dependent and significant. Therefore, the composition according to the invention exhibits a dual effect: it effectively combats ROS and also stimulates the production of intracellular antioxidants.

[0148] 5 / Mitochondrial membrane potential

[0149] plan

[0150] HK cells were grown to confluence in their culture medium. Once placed in a suitable buffer, the cells were exposed to blue light as previously described (in B / ). The cells were then contacted with the composition according to the invention for 25 hours. The mitochondrial membrane potential on live cells was then assessed by measuring the monomeric cytoplasmic (green) and aggregated (red-yellow) mitochondrial forms of JC-10 dye at two different wavelengths. A low monomer / aggregate ratio indicated good mitochondrial condition. The cell nuclei were stained using the Hoescht 33258 method (DNA staining) to count the cell number, thereby weighting the results.

[0151] result

[0152] Changes in mitochondrial membrane potential at the mitochondrial junction (HK); Effects of the composition according to the invention (contact time 25 hours)

[0153] [Table 9]

[0154] Research Status change(%) Control group, unirradiated Reference In contrast, blue light +33％；p<0.01 According to the composition of the present invention, 0.5% blue light +2.1%; nsd

[0155] Mitochondrial membrane potential is a charge gradient generated by mitochondrial function. Disruption of this gradient indicates stress and can lead to impairment and disease. Results showed that blue light significantly altered mitochondrial membrane potential in HK. The monomeric form increased dramatically relative to the polymer, increasing by a ratio of 33% (p<0.01), reflecting disturbance in the mitochondria. Following this irradiation, the basal mitochondrial membrane potential could be maintained using the composition according to the invention.

[0156] 6 / Mitochondrial ATP Synthesis

[0157] plan

[0158] Follow the same procedure as in 5 / . After 25 hours of contact with the composition according to the invention (or no contact for the control), intracellular ATP is extracted and measured by bioluminescence; the obtained signal is proportional to the amount of ATP in the cell. Cell nuclei are stained using the Hoescht method (DNA staining) to count the number of cells for weighting the results.

[0159] result

[0160] Changes in the ATP pool on HK; the effects of the composition according to the invention (contact time 25 hours)

[0161] [Table 10]

[0162] Research Status change(%) change(%) Unirradiated control Reference 1 0.5% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +30％；p<0.01 1% of the composition according to the invention, unirradiated +53％；p<0.01 In contrast, blue light -30％；p<0.01 Reference 2 According to the composition of the present invention, 0.5% blue light +33％；p<0.03 1% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light +87％；p<0.01

[0163] ATP is the energy building block of life. Metabolism functions, and proteins are produced due to ATP. Mitochondria that are aged or damaged by stress produce less energy. Results showed that ATP production was inhibited after cellular exposure to blue light. This is consistent with known observations of changes in mitochondrial potential. Compared to the control, the composition according to the invention stimulated energy production in mitochondria with or without irradiation. In the absence of irradiation, stimulation reached +53% of the control (p<0.01). In the irradiated condition, it reached up to +87% compared to the irradiated control (p<0.01).

[0164] 7 / Peroxidation of lipid membranes

[0165] principle

[0166] Lipid membranes surround the cell and mitochondria. In the latter, they actively maintain the mitochondrial membrane potential. Membrane peroxidation weakens them and amplifies damage by autocatalytically generating oxygen free radicals.

[0167] plan

[0168] A liposome-type lipid membrane model was exposed to blue light (under the conditions described above for cells in B / ). The composition according to the invention was added after irradiation or without irradiation (in the control case). Lipid peroxidation was measured by absorption at 233 nm (the absorption wavelength of conjugated dienes).

[0169] result

[0170] Measurement of lipid peroxidation on liposomes (liposome membrane model); effects of the composition according to the invention.

[0171] [Table 11]

[0172] Research Status change(%) In contrast, blue light Reference According to the composition of the present invention, 0.5% blue light -60％；p<0.01 1% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light -68％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light -73％；p<0.01

[0173] The composition according to the invention strongly and dose-dependently reduces lipid peroxidation. It protects the lipid membrane from oxidative damage caused by blue light.

[0174] Expression of the 8 / MMP-1 gene

[0175] plan

[0176] HK cells were grown to confluence in their culture medium. Once placed in a suitable buffer, the cells were exposed to blue light (B / ) as described above, and then contacted with the composition according to the invention for 6 hours. Total RNA was extracted and quantified and analyzed by transcriptomics studies on an mRNA microarray. Detection probes for 10 copies of the MMP1 gene were present on the mRNA microarray, and two biological replicas were quantified, i.e., one for each condition (n=20).

[0177] result

[0178] Changes in MMP-1 gene expression on HK, and the effect of the composition according to the present invention (6 hours of exposure).

[0179] [Table 12]

[0180] Research Status change(%) change(%) Unirradiated control Reference 1 In contrast, blue light +205％；p<0.01 Reference 2 2% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light -35％；p<0.01

[0181] These results clearly demonstrate that, in the irradiation system studied, blue light induced a 205% increase in the expression of the MMP1 gene, which encodes a synonymous protein (p<0.01). Conversely, irradiation of cells with blue light resulted in a 2% reduction in the production of this molecule, which is closely related to extracellular matrix degradation.

[0182] 9 / Production of inflammatory mediators

[0183] plan

[0184] HK cells were cultured in their culture medium. Once placed in a suitable buffer, the cells were exposed to blue light (B / ) as previously described. The cells were then exposed to the composition according to the invention for 24 hours. The culture medium was then collected, and the concentrations of IL-6 and PGE2 were determined by ELISA. The assay on the cell layer was used to reduce the number of cells.

[0185] result

[0186] Changes in IL-6 protein expression on HK; effects of the composition according to the invention (24-hour contact).

[0187] [Table 13]

[0188] Research Status change(%) change(%) Unirradiated control Reference 1 In contrast, blue light +147％；p<0.01 Reference 2 2% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light -57％；p<0.01

[0189] Changes in the expression of the pro-inflammatory lipid PGE-2 on HK; the effects of the composition according to the invention (after 24 hours of contact).

[0190] [Table 14]

[0191] Research Status change(%) change(%) Unirradiated control Reference 1 In contrast, blue light +108％；p<0.01 Reference 2 According to the composition of the present invention, 0.5% blue light -59％；p<0.01 1% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light -68％；p<0.01 2% of the composition according to the present invention, blue light -72％；p<0.01

[0192] These results (Tables 11 and 12) clearly demonstrate that blue light induces an increase of 147% and 108% in the synthesis of cytokines IL-6 and PGE2, respectively (both p < 0.01). Conversely, the composition according to the invention inhibits the synthesis of these pro-inflammatory molecules after cell irradiation with blue light. In the case of PGE2, these inhibitions are significant and dose-dependent.

[0193] 10 / Cellular elasticity after stress

[0194] plan

[0195] NHF cells were cultured in their medium until confluence, then irradiated with blue light (e.g., B / M), and subsequently contacted with the composition according to the invention for 24 hours. The cells were then isolated and contained in a collagen gel to form a dermal equivalent. Cell contraction to the gel was monitored. The area of ​​the gel was measured, and δ of the area relative to T0 was calculated for each condition.

[0196] result

[0197] Changes in collagen gel shrinkage caused by HF; effects of the composition according to the invention (contact time 24 hours).

[0198] [Table 15]

[0199]

[0200]

[0201] These results indicate that blue light reduces the ability of fibroblasts to contract collagen gel (-36%). They also show that the compositions according to the invention maintain the contractile force of fibroblasts despite blue light irradiation. This demonstrates the skin's ability to maintain its elasticity in the face of such stress.

[0202] D / Galen formulations / preparations of the compositions according to the present invention

[0203] The compositions according to the invention may contain additional cosmetic active ingredients, which may be in the form of ingredients or as a support and / or active supplement in the production of the final cosmetic composition for the consumer. The compositions may be delivered alone or as a premix in any form or carrier known to those skilled in the art, particularly as solutions, dispersions, emulsions, pastes, or powders, either alone or as a premix, and applied to the face, body, collar, scalp, hair, eyelashes, body hair, nails, and lips.

[0204] In cosmetics, it can be specifically applied in the areas of skin care for the face, body, hair and body hair, as well as in the area of ​​cosmetic care.

[0205] These additional active agents can be of any category, depending on their function, application site (body, face, neck, chest, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips, etc.), desired end effect, and target consumer. Examples include antioxidants, firming agents, moisturizers, nourishing agents, protectants, smoothing agents, reshaping agents, volumizing agents (fat fillers), agents that improve skin radiance, combat dark spots, reduce dark circles, fight glycation, combat aging, reduce wrinkles, aid weight loss, soothe, relax muscles, reduce redness, combat stretch marks, and provide sun protection.

[0206] The CTFA (International Dictionary & Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients, published by the Personal Care Products Association, 19th edition 2019, from the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC) describes a variety of non-limiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, suitable for use as other ingredients in compositions according to the present invention.

[0207] It may be mentioned that at least one of the following compounds is selected: vitamin B3, compounds such as nicotinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hexamidine, alpha-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA, hyaluronic acid, peptides, especially Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO 3), N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl ester, Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO 4), Pal-KTFK (SEQ ID NO 5), Pal-GHK, Pal-KMO2K and / or Pal-K(P)HG (with proline grafted onto lysine), which are active ingredients widely used in topical cosmetic or dermatological pharmaceutical compositions.

[0208] More particularly useful other skincare active ingredients can be found in Sederma's business literature and website. www.sederma.com Found it.

[0209] Typically, as examples, the following commercially active substances may also be mentioned: betaine, glycerin, Actimoist Bio 2 TM (Active organics)、AquaCactine TM (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Aquaphyline TM (Silab), AquaregulK TM (Solabia), Carciline TM (Greentech), Codiavelane TM (Biotech Marine), Dermaflux TM (Arch Chemicals, Inc), Hydra'Flow TM (Sochibo), Hydromoist L TM (Symrise), RenovHyal TM (Soliance), Seamoss TM(Biotech Marine), Argireline TM (Lipotec's trade name for acyl hexapeptide-3), spilanthol, or according to the trade name Gatuline Expression TM Known extracts of Acmella oleracea, based on the trade name Boswellin TM Known extracts of Boswellia serrata, Deepaline PVB TM (Seppic), Syn-AKE TM (Pentapharm), Ameliox TM Bioxilift TM (Silab), PhytoCellTec TM Argan (Mibelle), Papilactyl D TM (Silab), Preventhelia TM (Lipotec), and Subliskin from Sederma. TM Venuceane TM Moist 24 TM Vegesome Moist 24 TM Essenskin TM Juvinity TM Revidrat TM Resistem TM Chronodyn TM Kombuchka TM Chromocare TM Calmosensine TM Glycokin factor S TM Biobustyl TM Idealift TM Ceramide 2 TM Ceramide A2 TM et Ceramide HO3 TM Legance TM Intenslim TM Prodizia TM Beautifeye TM Pacifeel TMNG - Shea butter unsaponifiables (natural grade), Zingerslim TM , Meiritage TM Senestem TM Sebuless TM Majestem TM Apiscalp TM Rubistem TM Citystem TM Neonyca TM ,NG Insaponifiables deBourre de Karité TM Majestem TM Hydrogenesis TM Poretect TM Crystallide TM Amberstem TM Feminage TM , or a mixture thereof.

[0210] Among the plant extracts that can bind to the peptides of the present invention, extracts from the following plants are particularly noteworthy: ivy, especially English ivy (Hedera Helix), Bupleurum chinensis, Bupleurum falcatum, Arnica Montana L, Rosmarinus officinalis N, Calendula officinalis, Salvia officinalis L, Panax ginseng, Ginkgo, Hyperycum perforatum, Ruscus aculeatus L, Filipendula ulmaria L, Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth, Fucus vesiculosus, Betula alba, green tea, Cola nipida, horse chestnut, bamboo, Centella asiatica. asiatica), photinia, black hornwort, willow, mouse-ear grass, aescin, atractylodes, golden chamomile (chrysanthellum indicum), plants of the genus Armeniacea, Atractylodis platicodon, Sinnomenum, morning glory (Pharbitidis), flemingia, coleus (such as C. forskohlii, C. blumei, C. esquirolii, C. scutellaroides, C. xanthantus and C.Barbatus, such as the root extract of Coleus barbatus), Ballote, Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, antirobia, Cecropia, Argania, Dioscoreae, such as Dioscorea opposite or Dioscorea mexicana, Ammivisnaga, Siegesbeckia, especially Siegesbeckia orientalis, plant extracts from Ericaceae, especially blueberry extract (Vaccinium angustifollium) or bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva ursi), aloe, plants containing sterols (e.g., phytosterols), Manjistha (extracted from Rubia, especially Rubia cordifolia). Cordifolia) and Guggul (extracts from plants in the genus Commiphora, especially Commiphora Mukul), Cola extract, Chamomile, Red Clover extract, and Piper methysticum extract (from Sederma's Kava Kava). TM ), Bacopa monieri extract (from Sederma's Bacocalmine) TMExtracts of sea whip, Glycyrrhiza glabra, mulberry, Melaleuca (tea tree), Larrea divaricata, Rabdosia rubescens, Euglena agraracilis, Fibraurea recisa Hirudinea, Chaparral Sorghum, sunflower extract, Enantia chlorantha, Mitracarpe of Spermacocea, Buchu barosma, Lawsonia inermis L., and Adiantium capillus-Veneris L.Chelidonium majus, Luffa cylindrica, Japanese citrus (Citrus reticulata Blanco, Wenzhou variety), Camelia sinensis, Imperata cylindrica, Glaucium Flavorum, Cupressus sempervirens, Polygonatum multiflorum, Lovely Hemsleya, Sambucus Nigra, Phaseolus lunatus, Centaurium, Macrocystis Pyrifera, Turnera Diffusa, Anemarrhena asphodeloides, Portulaca pilosa, Humulus lupulus, Coffea Arabica, Ilex chinensis Extracts of *Paraburiensis*, or *Globularia cordifolia*, *Albizzia julibrissin*, *Oxydendron arboretum*, *Zingimber Zerumbet Smith*, *Astragalus membranaceus*, *Atractylodes macrocephalae*, *Plantago lanceolata*, *Mirabilis jalapa*, *Apium graveolens*, *Marrubium vulgare*, *Buddleja davidii*, *Engelhardia chrysolepis*, *Syringa vulgaris*, or orchids.

[0211] The compositions of the present invention may include one or more other peptides, including, but not limited to, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexapeptides and their derivatives. According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of other peptides in the composition ranges from 1 × 10⁻⁶. -7 % to 20%, preferably 1×10 -6 % to 10%, preferably 1×10 -5% to 5% by weight. The term "peptide" herein refers to a peptide containing 10 or fewer amino acids, its derivatives, isomers, and complexes with other substances such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, etc.). The term "peptide" refers to both natural and synthetic peptides. It also refers to compositions containing peptides that are found in nature and / or commercially available.

[0212] Suitable dipeptides used in this article include, but are not limited to, carnosine (βAH), YR, VW, NF, DF, KT, KC, CK, KP, KK, TT, PA, PM, or PP.

[0213] Suitable tripeptides used in this article include, but are not limited to, RKR, HGG, GKH, GHK, GGH, GHG, KGH, KHG, KFK, KAvaK, KβAK, KAbuK, KAcaK, KPK, KMOK, KMO2K (MO2 is sulfoxide methionine), KVK, PPL, PPR, SPR, QPA, LPA, SPA, K(Ac)HG, or K(Ac)GH, where K(Ac) is an acetyl group with a side chain. Lysine with an amine functional group, such as those disclosed in WO2017 / 216177, K(P)HG or K(P)GH, where K(P) is a lysine with proline as a side link, K(Pyr)HG or K(Pyr)GH, where K(Pyr) is a lysine with pyroglutamic acid as a side link, and K(Hyp)HG or K(Hyp)GH, where K(Hyp) is a lysine with hydroxyproline as a side link, as disclosed in WO2016 / 097965.

[0214] Suitable tetrapeptides for use as other peptides in this article include, but are not limited to, RSRK (SEQ ID NO:6), KTFK (SEQ ID NO:7), KTAK (SEQ ID NO:8), KAYK (SEQ ID NO:9) or KFYK (SEQ ID NO:10).

[0215] Suitable examples of pentapeptides without limitation are KTTKS (SEQ ID NO:11), while suitable examples of hexapeptides are GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO:12) and VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO:13).

[0216] Other suitable peptides used according to the invention may be selected from (this list is not limiting): lipophilic derivatives of the peptide, preferably palmitoyl (Pal) derivatives, or myristic (Myr) derivatives, and the aforementioned metal complexes (e.g., copper complexes of the tripeptides HGG or GHK). Preferred dipeptides include, for example, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexadecyl ester (Calmosensine from Sederma).TM Idealift TM Pal-RT or Pal-KT (from Sederma). Preferred tripeptide derivatives include, for example, Pal-GKH and Pal-GHK (from Sederma), copper derivatives of HGG (from Sigma's Lamin). TM Lipospondin (N-Elaidoyl-KFK) and its conserved substitution analogues, N-acetyl-RKR-NH2 (peptide CK+), N-Biot-GHK (from Sederma), Pal-KAvaK, Pal-KβAlaK, Pal-KAbuK, Pal-KAcaK, or Pal-KMO2K (from Sederma) synthe' ), PalKVK (Syn-Collection of DSM) TM ), and its derivatives.

[0217] This article may also cite the anti-aging tripeptide of general formula X-Pro*-Pro*-Xaa-Y described in WO2015181688, where Xaa is selected from Leu, Arg, Lys, Ala, Ser, and Asp; at the N-terminus, X is selected from H, -CO-R. 1 and-SO 2 -R 1 Furthermore, at the C-terminus, Y is selected from OH, OR 1 NH 2 NHR 1 or NR 1 R 2 R 1 and R 2 The groups are independently selected from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy, and aryloxy groups, which may be straight-chain, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, unsaturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated, and / or sulfided, and the groups may or may not have heteroatoms in their skeleton, particularly O, S, and / or N, and Pro* corresponds to proline, its analogues, or derivatives; including, for example, Myr-PPL-OH and Myr-PPR-OH.

[0218] This article may further cite the general formula X-(Xaa1)n-Pro*-Xaa2-Y, disclosed in WO2014 / 080376, which are propigmenting and / or pro-mec dipeptides and tripeptides, where n = 0, 1, or 2. Xaa1 is a hydrophobic amino acid selected from Ala, Val, Met, Leu, Iso, Phe, Pro, or its analogues and derivatives; or a polar amino acid selected from Ser, Thr, Tyr, Asp, Glu, or its analogues and derivatives; and when n = 2, the two amino acids Xaa1 can be the same or different; Xaa2 is a hydrophobic amino acid selected from Ala, Val, Met, Leu, Iso, Phe, or its analogues and derivatives; or a basic amino acid selected from Arg, Lys, His, or its analogues and derivatives. Derivatives; at the N-terminus of the peptide, X is selected from H, -CO-R1, and -SO2-R1; at the C-terminus, Y is selected from OH, OR1, NH2, NHR1, or NR1R2; R1 and R2 are independently selected from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy, and aryloxy groups, which can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, saturated, unsaturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated, and / or sulfided, said groups having or not having O, S, and / or N heteroatoms in their backbone, and Pro* corresponds to proline, its analogues, or derivatives; including, for example, the peptides Pal-SPR-OH, Pal-PPR-OH, Pal-QPA-OH, Pal-LPAOH, Myr-SPA-OH, Pal-PM-OH, Pal-PA-OH, and Pal-PP-OH.

[0219] Suitable tetrapeptide derivatives for use as other peptides according to the invention include, but are not limited to, Pal-KTFK (SEQ ID NO:5) or Ela-KTFK (SEQ ID NO:14), Ela-KTAK (SEQ ID NO:15), Ela-KAYK (SEQ ID NO:16), or Ela-KFYK (SEQ ID NO:17). Suitable pentapeptide derivatives for use as other peptides herein include, but are not limited to, Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO:3) (which can be used as...). (obtained from Sederma), Pal-YGGFXaa (SEQ ID NO:18), Xaa is Leu or Pro, or a mixture thereof.

[0220] Suitable hexapeptide derivatives for use herein include, but are not limited to, Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO:4), Pal-GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO:19), Pal-HLDIIXaa, where Xaa is Trp, Phe, Tyr, Tic, 7-hydroxy-Tic, or Tpi (SEQ ID NO:20) and their derivatives. A mixture of Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO:2) (Matr) may also be mentioned. 3000, Sederma).

[0221] The following peptides sold may also be mentioned as other active ingredients:

[0222] Vialox sold by Pentapharm TM (INCI name = Pentapeptide-3 (a synthetic peptide containing alanine, arginine, isoleucine, glycine, and proline)), Syn-ake TM (β-Ala-Pro-Dab-NH-Bzl) or Syn-Coll TM (Pal-Lys-Val-Lys-OH);

[0223] Argireline sold by Lipotec TM (Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2(INCI name = Acetyl hexapeptide-3)(SEQ ID NO:21), Leuphasyl) TM (Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu) (SEQ ID NO:22), Aldenine TM (Gly-His-Lys), Trylagen TM (INCI name = Pseudoalteromonas fermentation extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soybean protein, tripeptide-10 citrulline (reaction product of citrulline and tripeptide-10 (a synthetic peptide composed of aspartic acid, isoleucine and lysine)), tripeptide-1), Eyeseryl TM (Ac-β-Ala-His-Ser-His) (SEQ ID NO: 23), Serilesine TM (Ser-Ile-Lys-Val-Ala-Val) (SEQ ID NO:24) or Decorinyl TM (INCI name: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline = the reaction product of citrulline and tripeptide-10 (a synthetic peptide composed of aspartic acid, isoleucine and lysine);

[0224] -Collaxyl sold by Vincience TM (Gly-Pro-Gln-Gly-Pro-Gln (SEQ ID NO:25)) or Quintescine TM (Cys-Gly);

[0225] Cytokinol sold by Les Laboratoires Serobiologiques / Cognis TM LS (casein hydrolysate);

[0226] Kollaren sold by l'lnstitut Europ é en de Biologie Cellulaire TM (Gly-His-Lys), IP2000 TM (Pal-Val-Tyr-Val) or Meliprene TM (INCI name = Monofluoroheptapeptide-1: The product of the reaction of acetic acid with a synthetic peptide containing arginine, glycine, glutamic acid, histidine, ortholeucine, p-fluorophenylalanine and tryptophan);

[0227] - Neutrazen sold by Innovations TM (Pal-His-D-Phe-Arg-NH2); or

[0228] -BONT-L-Peptide sold by infinitec Activos TM (INCI name = Palmitoyl hexapeptide-19: the reaction product of palmitic acid and hexapeptide-19 (a synthetic peptide composed of asparagine, aspartic acid, lysine, and methionine), Timp-Peptide) TM (INCI name = Acetyl hexapeptide-20: The reaction product obtained by acetylation of hexapeptide-20 (a synthetic peptide composed of alanine, glycine, lysine, valine, and proline) or ECM Moduline TM (INCI name = Palmitoyl tripeptide-28: the reaction product of palmitic acid and tripeptide-28 (a synthetic peptide composed of arginine, lysine and phenylalanine).

[0229] It is also conceivable to combine plant cells according to the invention with one or more cyclic peptides, particularly those extracted from flaxseed oil as described in the applicant’s patent application FR1850845.

[0230] The following describes some examples of different compositions / formulations and other active ingredients according to the present invention.

[0231] The composition according to the invention, which forms a concentrated active ingredient according to the invention, is as described in point A above.

[0232] This ingredient is typically formulated in the range of 0.1% to 20%, preferably 1% to 10%, and more preferably 2% to 5%.

[0233] 1) Day cream

[0234] [Table 16]

[0235]

[0236]

[0237] 2) Night Cream

[0238] [Table 17]

[0239]

[0240] Examples of other ingredients:

[0241] Soothing ingredients for sensitive skin, such as:

[0242] -PACIFEEL TM Sold by Sederma, it contains extracts of Mirabilis Jalapa.

[0243] Hydration components, such as:

[0244] -AQUALANCE TM Sold by Sederma, this is a hydrated active ingredient, a permeation protectant composed of homarin and erythritol.

[0245] -REVIDRAT TM Sold by Sederma, it is particularly effective in improving the cohesion and hydration of the epidermis.

[0246] Ingredients that contribute to skin radiance, such as:

[0247] -EVERMAT TM Sold by Sederma, this product contains a combination of Enantia chlorantha extract rich in protoberberine and oleanolic acid; it reduces pore size and adds shine; it also improves the texture of acne-prone skin.

[0248] Moisturizing / smoothing ingredients, such as:

[0249] -OPTIM HYALTM Sold by Sederma, it contains an oligosaccharide of acetylated glucuronic acid, which has a structure similar to fragments of hyaluronic acid.

[0250] Sebum-regulating ingredients, such as:

[0251] -SEBULESS TM Sold by Sederma, it contains lilac (Syringavulgaris) extract obtained through in vitro cell culture, and a purified sebo-regulator to matte and refresh the skin tone and blur blemishes.

[0252] -PORETECT TM Sold by Sederma, this product contains a combination of titrated (neutralized) flaxseed and celery extracts in cyloliopeptide and ligusticum lactone, which brings firmness, tone and density to the skin, thereby strengthening and maintaining the structure of pores that have shrunk with age.

[0253] Ingredients that act on the elastic properties of the skin / skin barrier, such as:

[0254] -IDEALIFT TM Sold by Sederma, it contains the lipodipeptide N-acetyl-tyrosinyl-arginyl-O-hexadecyl ester, which combats facial sagging and improves resistance to gravity, particularly by stimulating elastin.

[0255] -DERMAXYL TM Sold by Sederma, this product combines ceramide 2, a stratum corneum binder, and palmitoylated matrikine Pal-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, which smooth wrinkles and repair the skin barrier.

[0256] Anti-fatigue ingredients, such as:

[0257] PRODIZIA TM Sold by Sederma, it contains an extract of Albizia julibrissin, which promotes a significant reduction in signs of fatigue, such as dark circles, eye bags, dull skin, and a tired appearance, by repairing and protecting the skin from damage caused by glycation.

[0258] Anti-pollution ingredients, such as:

[0259] -CITYSTEM TMSold by Sederma, this product is based on plant cells with a high concentration of forsythoside B obtained from Marrubium vulgare; it is used to combat pollution attacks: leaving skin soft and smooth, refining skin texture, reducing the visibility of blackheads, and leaving skin radiant and clean.

[0260] E / In vivo studies

[0261] General principles

[0262] The efficacy of the compositions according to the invention was evaluated on 27 volunteers. Since it was impossible to expose volunteers to blue light for several hours, group members with specific characteristics were selected. For all these studies, volunteers had to have significant daily screen contact to experience some fatigue, which was visible on the face. In particular, they may have dull skin tone and / or blemishes and / or “tired / wrinkled,” dehydrated facial skin with loss of tone and luster.

[0263] Studies on the benefits of the compositions of the present invention have been conducted in the following areas: hydration, smoothness, gloss, skin tone, and skin fatigue.

[0264] The study was conducted on the face for 8 weeks (measured at T0 and T8 weeks).

[0265] In this study, volunteers applied a day cream in the morning and a night cream (the formulation described in Part D of the Galen formulation above) to one side of their face. On the other side of their face, a placebo day cream and a night cream (the same formulation without active ingredients) were applied in a similar manner. Volunteers were unaware of which cream corresponded to the present invention.

[0266] Use Student's t-test for statistical analysis, or, if necessary, the nonparametric Wilcoxon test. Perform a two-tailed test on paired series.

[0267] 1 / Hydration

[0268] method

[0269] This study used an innovative device called Epsilon. TM It has the unique characteristic of providing an image of hydration rather than a value. This device originates from SkinChip. TM The device is equipped with a sensor comprising 76,800 pixels, capable of measuring depths up to 50 μm. Each pixel provides a value ε for the skin's dielectric constant, which varies from 0 to 85 (air = 1 and water = 80). This measurement provides an image that allows for a visual assessment of the test product's effect on skin morphology, and this parameter is improved by enhancing its uniformity or even its softness due to hydration.

[0270] result

[0271] Changes in skin hydration; the effects of the cream according to the invention (n=27)

[0272] [Table 18]

[0273]

[0274] Two months after application of the cream according to the invention, the skin was more hydrated compared to the placebo (p<0.01). The placebo did not provide any significant benefit.

[0275] 2 / Smooth skin

[0276] method

[0277] For this type of evaluation, Epsilon was used. TM It can also provide information about smoothing. This type of information is given for image negatives obtained through hydration. Fewer pixels in the image indicate a smoothing effect.

[0278] result

[0279] Changes in skin laxity (more or less smooth appearance); the effects of the cream according to the invention (n=27).

[0280] [Table 19]

[0281]

[0282] The results of these two studies showed a significant improvement in skin smoothness. Using the cream according to the invention, smoothness was significantly improved by 5.5% compared to the placebo (p<0.05). This percentage clearly demonstrates the improvement on relatively young and slightly more noticeable skin.

[0283] 3 / Skin radiance

[0284] method

[0285] This study used C-Cube TM A color camera (Pixience) was used, employing constant diffuse LED illumination with polarization to avoid glare. Images were self-calibrated and homogenized. Structures smaller than 20 μm could be seen through zoom. An algorithm combining colorimetric measurements and analysis of variance provided a gloss index correlated with the clinical grading method CLCT (Color, Luminance, Transparency). During the study, this index had a physiological window established between 35 and 70 units. δ measured after application is expressed as a percentage of this physiological scale at 35 units.

[0286] result

[0287] Changes in skin luster; the effects of the cream according to the present invention (n=25).

[0288] [Table 20]

[0289]

[0290]

[0291] It was noted that after application of the cream of the present invention, skin radiance was improved, with an increase of +4.4% at a placebo site where the average deterioration was -2.7%. The cream of the present invention has a significant advantage compared to the placebo cream (p<0.05).

[0292] 4 / Skin tone and fatigue

[0293] method

[0294] The MPA580 (C&K) is commonly used to study the effects of cosmetics on skin viscoelastic parameters. It measures the deformation and recovery ability of skin areas subjected to mechanical suction stress. The possibility of applying several successive deformations is utilized, as it allows for the measurement of skin “fatigue” over time. The assessment of extensibility (Uf) provides an indication of its tone / firmness. An internal study of 62 volunteers aged 23 to 81 years enabled the establishment of a correlation between skin fatigue parameters and age, thus providing a theoretical gain based on age.

[0295] result

[0296] Skin fatigue and changes in skin tone; the effects of the cream according to the invention (n=27)

[0297] [Table 21]

[0298]

[0299] [Table 22]

[0300]

[0301]

[0302] This table shows that the application of the composition of the present invention can “relax” the skin by significantly reducing the skin’s stretchability (one of the signs of aging) by 5.6% and significantly reduce its “fatigue” under approximately 12% repeated stretching.

[0303] All these in vitro and in vivo results confirm the undeniable benefits of the compositions according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatments. sequence list <110> Sedema Company <120> Cosmetic or dermatological compositions specifically designed to address the effects of blue light on the skin and its appendages, and related applications. <130> DBL PCT <150> FR1915141 <151> 2019-12-20 <160> 25 <170> PatentIn version 3.5 <210> 1 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 1 Gly Gln Pro Arg 1 <210> 2 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide of N-terminal palmitoyl chain <400> 2 Gly Gln Pro Arg 1 <210> 3 <211> 5 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide of N-terminal palmitoyl chain <400> 3 Lys Thr Thr Lys Ser 1 5 <210> 4 <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide of N-terminal palmitoyl chain <400> 4 Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly 1 5 <210> 5 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide of N-terminal palmitoyl chain <400> 5 Lys Thr Phe Lys 1 <210> 6 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 6 Arg Ser Arg Lys 1 <210> 7 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> peptide compounds <400> 7 Lys Thr Phe Lys 1 <210> 8 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 8 Lys Thr Ala Lys 1 <210> 9 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 9 Lys Ala Tyr Lys 1 <210> 10 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 10 Lys Phe Tyr Lys 1 <210> 11 <211> 5 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 11 Lys Thr Thr Lys Ser 1 5 <210> 12 <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 12 Gly Lys Thr Thr Lys Ser 1 5 <210> 13 <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 13 Val Gly Val Ala Pro Gly 1 5 <210> 14 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide-terminated by N-terminal Elaidoyl chain <400> 14 Lys Thr Phe Lys 1 <210> 15 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide-terminated by N-terminal Elaidoyl chain <400> 15 Lys Thr Ala Lys 1 <210> 16 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide-terminated by N-terminal Elaidoyl chain <400> 16 Lys Ala Tyr Lys 1 <210> 17 <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide-terminated by N-terminal Elaidoyl chain <400> 17 Lys Phe Tyr Lys 1 <210> 18 <211> 5 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide of N-terminal palmitoyl chain <220> <221> MISC_FEATURE <222> (5)..(5) <223> Xaa is proline or leucine. <400> 18 Tyr Gly Gly Phe Xaa 1 5 <210> 19 <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide of N-terminal palmitoyl chain <400> 19 Gly Lys Thr Thr Lys Ser 1 5 <210> 20 <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> Amide of N-terminal palmitoyl chain <220> <221> MISC_FEATURE <222> (6)..(6) <223> Xaa can be Trp, Phe, Tyr, Tic, 7-hydroxy-Tic, or Tpi. <400> 20 His Leu Asp Ile Ile Xaa 1 5 <210> twenty one <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <220> <221> MOD_RES <222> (1)..(1) <223> N-terminal acetylation <400> twenty one Glu Glu Met Gln Arg Arg 1 5 <210> twenty two <211> 5 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> twenty two Tyr Ala Gly Phe Leu 1 5 <210> twenty three <211> 4 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> twenty three Ala His Ser His 1 <210> twenty four <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> twenty four Ser Ile Lys Val Ala Val 1 5 <210> 25 <211> 6 <212> PRT <213> Artificial sequence <220> <223> Synthetic peptides <400> 25 Gly Pro Gln Gly Pro Gln 1 5

Claims

1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising the following: - Poplarin; - Rosemary extract; - Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7; and - Physiologically acceptable mediators, and Rosmarinic acid in the rosemary extract is present at a concentration of 0.1 to 10,000 ppm by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the apigenin is present at a concentration of 0.2 to 20,000 ppm by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is present at a concentration of 0.5 to 50,000 ppm by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 for non-therapeutic cosmetic use on the skin and / or its appendages.

5. The use according to claim 4, for preventing or treating the effects of photoaging.

6. As claimed in claim 4 or 5, for use as an antioxidant.

7. The use according to claim 4 or 5, for preventing and / or treating the harmful effects of blue light.

8. The use according to claim 4 or 5, for improving skin hydration, smoothness, luster, and / or skin tone.

9. For use according to claim 4 or 5, for topical application.

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