Loose-fitting women's suit and its pattern making method
By adjusting the structure of the suit, combining the fit and loose design, the problem of loose women's suits not being stable enough in formal occasions is solved, and the combination effect between the shoulder and the bust and the comfort below the bust are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202211160838.8
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-09-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-09
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-09-22
AI Technical Summary
The existing loose women's suits give people a leisurely impression in formal occasions, not steady enough to convey the feeling of spirituality and ability.
By modifying the prototype structure diagram of the suit, combining the upper structure of the fitted suit and the lower structure of the loose suit, adjusting the position and quantity of shoulder and chest savings, forming a design with a fitted shape above the bust line and a loose shape below the bust line.
It achieves the effect of combining shoulders and bust when wearing, giving people a sense of spirituality, ability and stability. At the same time, the design below the bust provides a sense of comfort and reduces the tightness and restraint of the suit.
Smart Images
Figure CN115316738B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing, and in particular relates to a loose-fitting women's suit and a plate making method thereof. Background Art
[0002] Suits are very popular nowadays, and they are handsome and stylish when worn in daily life. Many girls like to wear loose suits to match their daily looks and create a neutral style. However, although loose suits are comfortable to wear and convenient to move around in, compared with fitted suits, loose suits give people a leisurely impression in formal occasions, which is not stable enough and cannot give people a sense of spirit and competence.
[0003] Therefore, it is urgent to develop loose-fitting women's suits and a plate-making method thereof to solve the problems in the prior art. Summary of the invention
[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a loose-fitting women's suit and a method for making a pattern thereof, so that when the product is worn by consumers, the shoulders and chest are fitted, giving people a sense of spirit, competence and stability, and the area below the chest is comfortable and suitable for wearing, so as to solve the problems raised in the above-mentioned background technology.
[0005] In order to solve the above technical problems, the specific technical solutions of the present invention are as follows:
[0006] The method for making a suit pattern comprises the following steps:
[0007] Step S1: Obtain the data required for mapping;
[0008] Step S2: Producing a suit prototype structure diagram according to the determined drawing data;
[0009] Step S3: modifying the suit prototype structure diagram to obtain a loose suit structure diagram, wherein the loose suit structure diagram includes a fitted suit upper structure and a loose suit lower structure.
[0010] Further, the step S3 includes the following steps: modifying the front piece and the back piece of the suit.
[0011] Further, the step S3 includes: moving the side seams on the suit prototype structure diagram forward by 0cm-2cm.
[0012] Furthermore, the suit prototype structure diagram includes a front body and a back body, the front body is provided with a chest dart, and the back body is provided with a shoulder dart.
[0013] Further, the step S3 includes converting the shoulder darts on the back bodice into back center darts, armhole darts and shoulder darts.
[0014] Further, the step S3 includes converting the chest dart on the front bodice into a front center dart, a neckline dart, an armhole dart and a chest dart.
[0015] Furthermore, the step S3 also includes: raising the armhole depth at the chest dart position after the transformation, and simultaneously moving the waist section below the raised position upward by the same amount.
[0016] Furthermore, the step S3 also includes: making auxiliary lines CE and DE at the front middle waist section, point C is the original collar shoulder point, point D is the position after the bust dart is transferred, measuring the lengths of the two lines, folding DE, and making DE=CE.
[0017] Further, step S3 includes: making vertical auxiliary lines from the front chest width and the back width to the waist joint, obtaining the auxiliary lines at points O and N at the front chest width and the back width, and points R and Q on the waist joint; with point N as the center of the circle, folding point Q 1cm-2cm, with point O as the center of the circle, folding point R 1cm-2cm.
[0018] A loose-fitting women's suit is made from the loose-fitting suit structure diagram.
[0019] The present invention has the following advantages: the obtained loose suit structure diagram includes a fitted suit upper structure and a loose suit lower structure, so that a women's suit can be made that is fitted above the bust line and loose below the bust line, so that when the product is worn by consumers, the shoulders and bust are fitted, giving people an impression of being energetic, capable, steady and handsome, and giving people a sense of comfort below the bust, reducing the tightness and restraint of the suit when worn.
[0020] Other features and advantages of the present invention will be disclosed in detail in the following specific embodiments and drawings. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0021] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the prototype structure of the fitted suit of the present invention;
[0022] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the back piece of the prototype structure of a fitted suit;
[0023] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of the back piece of the back center slit style of the present invention;
[0024] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the structure of the back piece of the back center non-torn seam style of the present invention;
[0025] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the front piece of the prototype structure of a fitted suit;
[0026] Figure 6 This is the first manufacturing process of the upper part of the front piece of the present invention;
[0027] Figure 7 This is the second manufacturing process of the upper part of the front piece of the present invention;
[0028] Figure 8 It is a schematic diagram of the upper structure of the front piece of the present invention;
[0029] Fig. 9 It is a schematic diagram of the manufacturing process of the waist-tightening and large hem of the back piece of the present invention;
[0030] Fig.10 It is a schematic diagram of the manufacturing process of the waist-tightening and large hem of the front piece of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0031] In order to better understand the purpose, structure and function of the present invention, the present invention is further described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. In the present invention, unless otherwise clearly specified and limited, the terms "install", "connect", "connect", "fix" and the like should be understood in a broad sense. For example, it can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral one; it can be a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; it can be directly connected or indirectly connected through an intermediate medium, and it can be the internal connection of two elements or the interaction relationship between two elements. For those of ordinary skill in the art, the specific meanings of the above terms in the present invention can be understood according to the specific circumstances.
[0032] The women's suit comprises an upper suit part and a lower suit part, wherein the upper suit part is the part above the bust line, and the lower suit part is the part below the bust line; the upper suit part is a fitted structure, and the lower suit part is a loose structure. The suit is made according to the following loose suit structure diagram.
[0033] The steps include:
[0034] Step S1: Obtain the data required for mapping.
[0035] The data required for the mapping can be obtained by measuring human body signs or determined based on a standard human body.
[0036] In this embodiment, a standard human body of size 160 / 84A, B: 90cm, W: 74cm is selected, wherein height (h): 160cm; net chest circumference (B*): 84cm; finished chest circumference (B): 90cm; waist circumference (W): 74cm.
[0037] Step S2: Produce a fitted suit prototype structure diagram according to the determined mapping data. Optionally, the fitted suit prototype structure diagram is made according to the box-shaped prototype-Donghua prototype and / or the box-shaped prototype-Japanese culture-style new culture prototype. For details, please refer to Chapter 3 of "Clothing Structure Design" published by China Textile Press. In this embodiment, the front piece is made according to the box-shaped prototype-Donghua prototype, and the back piece is made according to the box-shaped prototype-Japanese culture-style new culture prototype.
[0038] The specific steps include the following:
[0039] Back body (back piece):
[0040] Step S21: Draw a horizontal line WL, draw a back length line, take the back collar width, and measure the back collar depth from the back length line.
[0041] Step S22: Draw a back horizontal line, a front horizontal line, and an armhole line.
[0042] Step S23: Take the back width on the armhole line.
[0043] Step S24: Draw the back shoulder diagonal line.
[0044] Step S25: Draw shoulder darts (eliminating the rear floating allowance in the box-shaped prototype - Donghua prototype through shoulder darts), and draw the armhole line.
[0045] Front body (front piece):
[0046] Step S26: Draw a deep front collar hole and a wide front collar hole.
[0047] Step S27: Draw a front chest width line on the armhole line, and draw a front shoulder diagonal line that is the same length as the back shoulder diagonal line.
[0048] Step S28: Take the BP point on the bust line (BL line) through the front center line, draw the front floating allowance (bust dart), then draw a line to the BP point, and finally draw the front armhole.
[0049] Optionally, the chest dart 3.6 is 15°. This is the chest dart size ratio obtained by three-dimensional cutting based on the current Chinese female body shape, shoulder dart = (B* / 40-0.6 = 1.5cm). Some values in this application are approximate values after rounding. Figure 1 The dashed arc in the middle is an equally divided arc.
[0050] Optional: back waist length = (height / 5+6=38cm); back width = (B / 8+7=18.25cm); chest width = (B / 8+4.5=15.75cm); back shoulder width = (B* / 8+8.5=19cm); front shoulder width = (B* / 8+7.6=18.1cm); back horizontal collar (back collar width) = (B* / 20+4.3=8.5cm); front horizontal collar = (back horizontal collar-0.9), 0.9cm is because of the difference between the back shoulder width and the front shoulder width; armhole width = (B / 5-6.2=11.8cm). Among them, one-fifth of the height, one-eighth of the finished chest circumference, one-eighth of the net chest circumference and one-twentieth of the net chest circumference are all determined according to the changes in human body shape; and the fixed values in the formula are determined according to different styles.
[0051] Step S3: modifying the suit prototype structure diagram to obtain a loose suit structure diagram.
[0052] The details include:
[0053] Optionally, the side seam line divides the distance between the chest width line and the back width line equally, that is, the side seam line is located in the middle of the armhole width. Because the human body is approximately cylindrical, there is no fixed position for the side seam; and the striped pattern can visually lengthen the proportions, making the person look thinner. And the more divisions there are, the thinner the person looks, so moving the side seam line forward also has a visual effect of making the person look thinner.
[0054] like Figure 1 As shown, the back width auxiliary line (back width) passes through the midpoint of the back armhole in the vertical direction, and the chest width auxiliary line (chest width) passes through the midpoint of the front armhole in the vertical direction.
[0055] Furthermore, the side suture is moved forward 0cm-2cm.
[0056] Optionally, the top of the shoulder dart is located at the highest point of the shoulder blade (point M).
[0057] Then, if Figures 2 to 4 As shown, the amount of rear shoulder darts and front chest darts is reasonably distributed so that the structure of the pattern can be balanced and effective.
[0058] To transform a fitted version into a loose version (fitted below the bust line, loose below the bust line), it is necessary to reasonably allocate the amount of the back shoulder dart and the front chest dart, so that the version structure can be balanced and effective, and the front and back waist darts are deleted, and the loose version basically has no darts. The upper structure is above the bust line, and the lower structure is below the bust line.
[0059] The upper structure of the modified piece includes the following: Figure 2 As shown, with the highest point of the shoulder blade (point M), that is, the top of the shoulder dart, as the center of the circle, the shoulder dart is transferred, and auxiliary lines are made at the back center (back length line) and the back width of the armhole, that is, lines ML and MN. The point L is the projection of point M on the back center line, which is a horizontal straight line, and the point N is the intersection of the back width auxiliary line and the armhole.
[0060] In this embodiment, Figure 3 As shown, the back center dart is 0.4*shoulder dart (1.5) = 0.6cm, the armhole dart is 0.45*shoulder dart (1.5) = 0.7, and the shoulder dart is 0.15*shoulder dart (1.5) = 0.2cm. When the shoulder dart is transferred to the back center 0.6cm, it needs to be returned to 0.6cm during the process. The shoulder dart of 0.2cm is eaten into the front shoulder seam when sewing, and the armhole of 0.7cm is placed at the armhole as a loose looseness. This shoulder dart is distributed to the back center, which is suitable for the back center ripped style.
[0061] Loose-fitting suits are designed for style reasons, such as Figure 4As shown, there is also a back center seam that is not broken. The amount of shoulder dart can only be appropriately transferred to the collar dart 0.2*shoulder dart (1.5) = 0.3cm, the armhole is 0.45*shoulder dart (1.5) = 0.7cm, and the shoulder dart is 0.35*shoulder dart (1.5) = 0.5cm. The collar dart of 0.3cm should be attributed to 0.3cm in terms of craftsmanship, and the armhole of 0.7cm should be placed at the armhole as a loose amount. The shoulder dart of 0.5cm is eaten into the front shoulder seam when sewing.
[0062] Based on the prototype structure diagram, the back width line is extended, and the overall waist seam (side seam) is moved 0.5cm-1cm to increase the chest size. This structural method is a loose women's suit with a straight hem.
[0063] Modify the lower structure of the front piece and the rear piece, specifically including the following:
[0064] like Fig. 9 and Fig.10 As shown, based on the straight hem of a loose women's suit, a loose women's suit with a large waist hem is made. It is necessary to make auxiliary lines from the front chest width and the back width to the waist (WL line).
[0065] With point N as the center, fold point Q 1.5cm, and the back waist seam will be gathered in 1.5cm; with point O as the center, fold point R 1.5cm, and the front waist seam will be gathered in 1.5cm;
[0066] The amount of folding in front and back is kept consistent, which ensures the same waist-tightening effect and reduces the difficulty of sewing. In the past, the waist-tightening method did not make auxiliary lines for the front and back width, but directly tightened 1.5cm at the waist joint. The disadvantage of this method is that the length of the waist seam will change.
[0067] Modify the front upper structure, including the following steps:
[0068] like Figure 5 As shown, the front piece uses the BP point as the center of the circle to make auxiliary lines for the front center, neckline, and armhole, and transfer the chest darts respectively. Among them, the front center dart is 0.17*chest dart (3.6cm) = 0.6cm, the neckline dart is 0.35*chest dart = 1.3cm, and the armhole dart is 0.28*chest dart = 1cm. Figure 6 As shown, the original chest dart is 0.2*chest dart = 0.7cm, the armhole depth (vertical height of the armhole) is directly raised, and the waist section below the raised position is moved up by the same amount at the same time. For a loose structure, raising the front armhole depth by about 1cm will not affect the balance of the pattern.
[0069] Draw a line parallel to the armhole depth line (bust line), 2.5cm upward and intersecting at point B. Draw an auxiliary line perpendicular to the WL line at point B, and move 0.5cm-1cm from the auxiliary line toward the waist seam to increase the bust size.
[0070] Draw auxiliary lines CE and DE at the front middle waist. Point C is the original collar shoulder point, and point D is the position after the chest dart is transferred. Measure the length of the two lines, fold DE, and make DE = CE. The principle is that the front middle waist E is the force point, and CE is the length before the dart is turned. After the dart is turned, the length from the collar shoulder point to E becomes longer, and the front middle is easy to be empty. Therefore, DE needs to be shortened by a certain amount to ensure that it is equal to CE. The shoulder end point G is about 4cm-5cm away from the shoulder end point due to the protrusion of the human body bone, and needs to be expanded by about 0.2cm-0.3cm, which can make it more comfortable to wear.
[0071] Draw a line parallel to FD 5cm down, which is GH. Fold the H point about 0.65cm, so that DE = CE, unfold the G point 0.3cm to meet the amount of bone protrusion at the acromion of the human foot, and finally smooth the lines of the armhole and collar.
[0072] It is to be understood that the present invention is described by some embodiments, and it is known to those skilled in the art that various changes or equivalent substitutions may be made to these features and embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. In addition, under the teachings of the present invention, these features and embodiments may be modified to adapt to specific circumstances and materials without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the present invention is not limited by the specific embodiments disclosed herein, and all embodiments falling within the scope of the claims of this application are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0073] In addition, it should be understood that although the present specification is described according to implementation modes, not every implementation mode contains only one independent technical solution. This description of the specification is only for the sake of clarity. Those skilled in the art should regard the specification as a whole. The technical solutions in each embodiment may also be appropriately combined to form other implementation modes that can be understood by those skilled in the art.
Claims
1. A method for making a suit plate, characterized in that: The steps include: Step S1: Obtain the data required for mapping; Step S2: Producing a suit prototype structure diagram according to the determined drawing data; Step S3: modifying the suit prototype structure diagram to obtain a loose suit structure diagram, wherein the loose suit structure diagram includes a fitted suit upper structure and a loose suit lower structure, wherein the suit upper structure is the portion above the bust line, and the suit lower structure is the portion below the bust line; The suit prototype structure diagram includes a front body and a back body, the front body is provided with a chest dart, and the back body is provided with a shoulder dart; The step S3 comprises: transforming the shoulder darts on the back body into the back center darts, armhole darts and shoulder darts; transforming the chest darts on the front body into the front center darts, neckline darts, armhole darts and chest darts, raising the armhole depth at the position of the chest dart after the transformation, and simultaneously moving the waist section below the raised position upward by the same amount; The step S3 also includes: drawing vertical auxiliary lines from the front chest width and the back width to the waist joint to obtain auxiliary lines OR and NQ, wherein point O is the intersection of the chest width auxiliary line and the front armhole, point N is the intersection of the back width auxiliary line and the back armhole, point R is the intersection of the auxiliary line OR and the waist joint, and point Q is the intersection of the auxiliary line NQ and the waist joint; taking point N as the center of the circle, folding point Q by 1cm-2cm, taking point O as the center of the circle, folding point R by 1cm-2cm, and the amount of the two folds is the same.
2. The method for making a suit plate according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step S3 also includes: moving the side seams on the suit prototype structure diagram forward by 0cm-2cm.
3. The method for making a suit plate according to claim 1, characterized in that: The step S3 also includes: making auxiliary lines CE and DE at the front middle waist section E, point C is the original collar and shoulder point, point D is the collar and shoulder point position after the bust dart is transferred, measuring the lengths of the two lines, folding DE, and making DE=CE.
4. Loose-fitting women's suit, characterized by: The suit is made by the suit plate making method according to any one of claims 1 to 3.