Thickening alkalizing components for oxidative hair lightening agents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a water-based cosmetic composition thickened with xanthan gum and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the composition having a strongly alkaline pH, to be used as an alkalizing component in two-part or three-part oxidative hair lightening agents.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to a water-based cosmetic composition thickened with xanthan gum and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the composition having a strongly alkaline pH value, intended for use as an alkalizing component in a two- or three-part oxidative hair lightening agent. Furthermore, this invention relates to a kit comprising the alkalizing component and a hair lightening method using the alkalizing component.

[0002] Besides coloring, fading or bleaching one's own hair color is a desire for many consumers, as blonde hair is considered fashionable and desirable. To fade or even bleach hair, oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, are used to chemically break down the natural pigments responsible for the hair's natural color, particularly the body's own melanins, eumeolanin, and phaeomelan, thus decolorizing and fading or even bleaching the hair.

[0003] To achieve optimal bleaching performance, oxidizing bleaching agents require an alkaline pH, particularly between pH 10.0 and 11.0, for accelerated reaction. However, hydrogen peroxide, the most commonly used oxidizing agent for cosmetic purposes, can only be stored at low pH values, between pH 2.0 and 6.5. Therefore, commercially available bleaches are typically packaged in kits consisting of an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide with a more acidic pH, preferably between pH 2.0 and 6.5, and an alkalizing component. These two components are mixed together only shortly before application to the hair. The composition and mixing ratio of these two components are matched to each other to give the resulting application mixture an alkaline pH, particularly between pH 9 and 10. Furthermore, a persulfate-containing composition, typically anhydrous, can be added to the alkaline application mixture containing hydrogen peroxide shortly before application to the hair to enhance the bleaching effect. This commercially available bleach is available as a kit consisting of an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide with a more acidic pH, preferably pH 2.0 to 6.5, an alkalizing component, typically in a creamy form, and an anhydrous composition containing persulfate. Typically, the kit also contains one or more parts of a hair conditioning agent for nourishing post-treatment of the hair after bleaching.

[0004] An attractive bleaching effect typically requires an application time of 5 to 60 minutes. Therefore, the individual components of ready-to-use bleach must be formulated in such a way that, on the one hand, they can be thoroughly mixed with each other and subsequently distributed onto the hair to be bleached, and on the other hand, they are viscous enough to remain on the hair to be bleached during application without dripping. This viscosity can be adjusted by a polymer thickener, which can be included in the alkalizing component and the oxidizing agent formulation, as well as optionally in an anhydrous composition containing persulfate.

[0005] The alkaline pH of the alkalizing component is adjusted using alkalizing agents, primarily ammonium hydroxide, ammonia, or alkanolamines, or mixtures of these agents. Ammonium hydroxide and alkanolamines, especially monoethanolamine, are particularly effective at swelling the stratum corneum, the outer stratum corneum of keratin fibers, allowing the oxidizing agent to penetrate well into the keratin fibers and lighten their color. Basic amino acids and inorganic bases are less suitable as the sole alkalizing agent; however, these components can be used as additional alkalizing agents.

[0006] To produce ready-to-use bleaching agents, an alkalizing component is typically mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution to form a homogeneous cream or gel, which is then applied directly to the hair to which the color is to be lightened. Optionally, an anhydrous composition containing persulfate can be added to this mixture to further enhance the lightening and bleaching properties of the agent. This bleaching agent is left on the hair for 5 to 60 minutes until the oxidative degradation of the natural melanin hair pigments, namely eumelanin and pheomelanin, is complete to the desired extent. The bleaching agent is then washed off the hair. The degree of melanin degradation and the resulting hair lightening depend on various properties of the hair, particularly the original amounts of the black-brown eumelanin and the red-gold pheomelanin, as well as the structure of the hair fibers. A good bleaching agent breaks down melanin as thoroughly as possible without producing undesirable hues. Furthermore, it is important to achieve a color lightening effect as uniformly as possible along the keratin fibers, regardless of the degree of damage to the keratin fibers along their length. This means achieving the same hue as possible on hair that is less damaged near the hairline or roots as on the more damaged ends. This property of bleach is also known as leveling ability.

[0007] Alkalizing agents or mixtures of alkalizing agents are typically incorporated into suitable cosmetic carriers, such as creams or gels. The carrier ensures even distribution of the hair lightening agent on the hair and sufficient residence time. The alkalizing component of oxidative hair lightening agents is often referred to as a bleaching cream. Melting point above 30°C. o The fatty components of C are commonly used as thickeners in creams. These specifically include higher linear fatty alcohols, such as myristol, cetyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, as well as polyol esters, such as glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glycol monostearate, and glycol distearate, and also wax esters, such as cetyl palmitate and myristyl myristate, and hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil.

[0008] The disadvantage is the complex production process of this cream, which contains a high-melting-point thickener. Melting the fat components and emulsifying them with an aqueous phase requires a large amount of energy. The subsequent cooling process consumes a significant amount of cooling water.

[0009] Thickening can also be achieved using polymeric thickeners as an alternative or supplement to high-melting-point fatty-based thickeners. For this purpose, the corresponding alkalizing components in the prior art comprise polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, such as carbomer, sodium polyacrylate, PVP, amphiphilic polyacrylate copolymers, such as copolymers with INCI names of acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers and acrylate / stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate copolymers, or polyurethanes, such as PEG-150 / decanol / SMDI copolymers. These polymers and copolymers are hydrophilic or amphiphilic and form a gel backbone in an alkaline aqueous phase. Due to their persistence in the environment, the use of such polymers should be avoided whenever possible. Products containing such ingredients are classified as Water Hazard Class 2 (WGK 2), meaning "significantly harmful to water."

[0010] Another drawback of alkalizing components thickened with vinyl, acrylate, or polyurethane polymers is that the gel expands significantly during long-term storage. This can happen if consumers do not immediately use the entire application mixture, consisting of the alkalizing component (M1), the oxidizing agent (M2), and (if necessary) the light-blooming accelerator composition (M3), but instead disregard the recommended usage instructions and store the remainder in a sealed mixing bottle for several days. This increases their volume, causing the storage bottle to swell, and in the worst case, potentially leading to their breakage.

[0011] Another drawback of alkalized components thickened with vinyl, acrylate, or polyurethane polymers is that the gel texture can sometimes adversely affect the product's spreadability on hair.

[0012] Therefore, the present invention is based on the objective of providing a thickening and alkalizing component for oxidative hair thinning agents, which

[0013] - This leads to improved fading effects, particularly in the following aspects:

[0014] - The amount of oxidant required, and

[0015] - Along the keratin fiber lightening uniformity (level staining),

[0016] - More environmentally friendly in production and ingredient selection.

[0017] - It is easier to distribute on the hair.

[0018] These tasks are addressed through the alkalizing component used in oxidative hair thinning agents, which contains

[0019] - 81 - 92% water by weight

[0020] - 1 - 2% xanthan gum,

[0021] - 0.5 - 1.5% by weight of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose,

[0022] - At least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide and alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 3-9% by weight.

[0023] - At least one oil comprising 0.5-7.0% by weight, preferably 2.0-5.5% by weight, more preferably 3.5-5.0% by weight.

[0024] - 0.4-2% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of: anionic surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, amphoteric surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, amphoteric surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, and alkyl oligoglycoside surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group.

[0025] - 0 - 0.1% by weight of peroxide,

[0026] All figures expressed as a percentage by weight are based on the weight of the alkalizing component.

[0027] The alkalizing component has a pH of 8.0 to 12.0, preferably 9.6 to 11.5, and particularly preferably 10.0 to 11.0, wherein the pH is at 20. o Measured under C,

[0028] It contains no percarbonate.

[0029] It contains no polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and it contains no polyurethane.

[0030] This excludes those with a melting point of 28. o C or higher fat content.

[0031] The alkalizing component according to the invention contains, in each case, 81-92% by weight, preferably 82-89% by weight, and particularly preferably 83-86% by weight of water.

[0032] The alkalizing component according to the invention contains, in each case, 1-2% by weight, preferably 1.2-1.8% by weight, and particularly preferably 1.5-1.7% by weight of xanthan gum.

[0033] The alkalizing component according to the invention comprises, in each case, 0.5-1.5% by weight, preferably 0.7-1.1% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.8-0.9% by weight of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose.

[0034] The preferred alkalizing component according to the present invention is characterized in that it contains no other polysaccharides besides xanthan gum and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose.

[0035] The alkalizing component according to the invention comprises, in each case, at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide and alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, in a total weight percentage of 2-9% by weight, preferably 3-8% by weight, and particularly preferably 4-7.5% by weight.

[0036] According to the invention, the preferred alkalizing components each contain 3-5% by weight, preferably 3.5-4% by weight, of ammonium hydroxide based on their weight.

[0037] Alkylamines that can be used as alkalizing agents according to the present invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent containing at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkylamines are selected from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminoprop-1-ol, 4-aminobut-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminoprop-2-ol, 1-aminobut-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylprop-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylprop-2-ol, 3-aminoprop-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylprop-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof. Very particularly preferred alkylamines according to the present invention are selected from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylprop-1-ol, and 2-amino-2-methylprop-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof. The alkanolamine particularly preferred according to the present invention is 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine).

[0038] According to the invention, the preferred alkalizing components in each case contain, based on their weight, at least one alkanolamine selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent having at least one hydroxyl group, in a total amount of 2-9% by weight, preferably 3-8% by weight, and particularly preferably 4-7.5% by weight.

[0039] According to the invention, other preferred alkalizing components comprise, in each case, a total of 2-9% by weight, preferably 3-8% by weight, and particularly preferably 4-7.5% by weight, at least one alkanolamine selected from the group consisting of: 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminoprop-1-ol, 4-aminobut-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminoprop-2-ol, 1-aminobut-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylprop-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylprop-2-ol, 3-aminoprop-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylprop-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Other preferred alkalizing components according to the invention contain, in each case, 2-9% by weight, preferably 3-8% by weight, particularly preferably 4-7.5% by weight of 2-aminoethanol (monoethanolamine).

[0041] The choice of alkalizing agent depends on the desired degree of desalination.

[0042] For particularly high desalination, a mixture of ammonium hydroxide and at least one alkanolamine is selected as the alkalizing agent. In each case, the total amount of the mixture is 4-9% by weight, preferably 5-8% by weight, and particularly preferably 6-7% by weight, based on the weight of the alkalizing component.

[0043] A mixture of ammonium hydroxide and 2-aminoethanol (monoethanolamine) is preferred, and in each case, the total amount of the alkalizing component is 4-9% by weight, preferably 5-8% by weight, and particularly preferably 6-7% by weight.

[0044] Furthermore, the alkalizing component according to the invention, in each case, comprises at least one oil in an amount of 0.5-7.0% by weight, preferably 2.0-5.5% by weight, and particularly preferably 3.5-5.0% by weight, based on its weight. Adding the prescribed amount of oil supports the leveling ability of the bleach, thereby ensuring a uniform bleaching effect regardless of the degree of damage along the keratin fibers. Additionally, the oil optimizes the texture of the alkalizing component of the invention.

[0045] The preferred alkalizing component according to the present invention is characterized in that the at least one oil is selected from branched saturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, and esters of saturated straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms and saturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms that can be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Branched alcohols are commonly referred to as Guerbet alcohols because they are available after the Guerbed reaction. Preferred branched saturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms are 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol, as well as mixtures thereof. 2-Octyldodecyl alcohol is particularly preferred.

[0047] Other oils particularly preferred according to the present invention are selected from saturated straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms and esters of saturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms that can be hydroxylated. These preferably include cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isoctyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotriadecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isonononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, 2-butyl octyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, and n-hexyl laurate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0048] The particularly preferred alkalizing component according to the present invention is characterized in that at least one oil is selected from 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearyl... Isopropyl stearate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isoctyl stearate, isonononyl isononanoate, isotriadecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isonononate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, and n-hexyl laurate, and mixtures thereof. A highly preferred alkalizing component according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises 0.5-7.0% by weight, preferably 2.0-5.5% by weight, particularly preferably 3.5-5.0% by weight of 2-octyldodecyl alcohol.

[0049] Furthermore, the alkalizing component according to the invention, in each case, comprises, based on its weight, at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of at least 0.4-2% by weight, preferably 0.7-1.3% by weight, anionic surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, zwitterionic surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, zwitterionic surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, and alkyl oligosaccharide surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group. Such surfactants need to emulsify at least one oil in a storage-stable manner and also need to facilitate the washing away of hair thinning agents from the hair.

[0050] Anionic surfactants

[0051] Suitable anionic surfactants are all anionic surfactants suitable for use in the human body, which have water-soluble anionic groups such as carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate groups in their molecules, and lipophilic alkyl groups having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Additionally, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, esters, ethers, amides, and hydroxyl groups may also be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants in each case are, in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as mono-, di-, and tri-alkyl ammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; straight-chain and branched fatty acids (soaps) having 8 to 14 carbon atoms; polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids; acylsarcosine; acyl taurine; acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates; monoalkyl and dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinate; monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters of sulfosuccinate containing 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups; straight-chain alkane sulfonates; straight-chain α-olefin sulfonates; sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having up to 6 double bonds; α-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids; C8-C... 14 Alkyl sulfates and C8-C having up to 15 oxyethyl groups 14 Alkyl ether sulfates, mixtures of surfactant hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, and monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates. Preferred anionic surfactants are C8-C. 14 Alkyl sulfates, C8-C 14 Alkyl ether sulfates and C8-C groups having 8 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. 14Ether carboxylic acid. The preferred alkalizing component comprises at least one anionic surfactant in a total weight percentage of 0.4-2% by weight, preferably 0.7-1.3% by weight. Sodium lauryl ether (2) sulfate is particularly preferred. Especially preferably, sodium lauryl ether (2) sulfate is present in 0.4-2% by weight, preferably 0.7-1.3% by weight, based on the weight of the alkalizing component.

[0052] zwitterionic surfactants

[0053] The term zwitterionic surfactant is used to describe surface-active compounds that, in addition to at least one lipophilic alkyl group containing 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, also have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxyl, sulfonate, or sulfate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylglycinine ammonium, e.g., cocoalkyldimethylglycinine ammonium, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylglycinine ammonium, e.g., cocoylaminopropyldimethylglycinine ammonium, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline, wherein each has 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are fatty acid amide derivatives known as cocamidopropyl betaine under the INCI name. Preferred alkalizing components comprise at least one zwitterionic surfactant in a total weight of 0.4-2% by weight, preferably 0.7-1.3% by weight.

[0054] Amphoteric surfactants

[0055] Amphoteric surfactants are C8-C excluding C8-C 14 In addition to alkyl or acyl groups, the molecule contains at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group, and is capable of forming an internal salt surfactant compound. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid, and alkylaminoacetic acid, each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C... 12 -C 18 Acylsarcosine. The preferred alkalizing component comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total weight percentage of 0.4-2% (preferably 0.7-1.3%).

[0056] Alkyl oligoglycoside surfactants

[0057] Other preferred surfactants are selected from C8-C. 14 Alkyl oligosaccharide. C8-C 14 Alkyl oligoglycosides represent well-known commercially available surfactants. They are specifically produced by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols containing 8-14 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residues, monoglycosides in which cyclic sugar residues are glycosidically bonded to fatty alcohols, and oligoglycosides with an oligomerization degree of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The oligomerization degree is a statistical average based on the distribution of common homologues in products of this technology. Products available under the trademark Plantacare® contain glucosyl-bonded C8-C oligoglycoside residues with an average oligomerization degree of 1-2, particularly 1.2-1.4. 14 Alkyl group. Particularly preferred C8–C 14 The alkyl oligoglycoside is selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. The preferred alkalizing component comprises, by weight, at least one C8-C [organophosphate] in a total amount of 0.4-2% by weight, preferably 0.7-1.3% by weight. 14 Alkyl oligoglycosides. According to the present invention, alkyl oligoglycoside surfactants are not considered polysaccharides.

[0058] The essential characteristic "0 - 0.1% by weight of peroxide" is intended to indicate that, prior to the preparation of the readily available hair lightening agent, the alkalizing component according to the invention is a peroxide-free component of the oxidative hair lightening agent. Small amounts of peroxide are considered acceptable and can be introduced by appropriate pretreatment of the water used in the production. Based on the weight of the alkalizing component, a peroxide content of at most 0.1% by weight will not cause hair lightening.

[0059] The alkalizing component according to the invention has a pH of 8.0 to 12.0, preferably 9.6 to 11.5, and particularly preferably 10.0 to 11.0, wherein the pH is in each case at 20. o Measured under C.

[0060] The alkalizing component according to the invention does not contain percarbonate, i.e., 0.0% by weight of percarbonate based on its weight.

[0061] The alkalizing component according to the invention does not contain polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers or vinyl monomers and does not contain polyurethane, i.e., 0.0% by weight of the above (co)polymers.

[0062] The alkalizing component according to the present invention does not contain any substance with a melting point of 28°C. o Fatty components with C or higher, especially those with a melting point of 28°C or higher. o C to 300 oC is a fatty component. Examples of such fatty components that are undesirable according to the invention are straight-chain saturated 1-alkanols having at least 14 carbon atoms, such as 1-tetradecanool (myristol), 1-hexadecanool (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanool (stearyl alcohol), and 1-eicosyl alcohol (arachidonic alcohol), waxes such as beeswax or kerosene wax, esters of glycerol, esters of 1,2-propanediol or ethylene glycol, such as glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, hydrogenated castor oil, propylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, or ethylene glycol distearate.

[0063] The preferred alkalizing component according to the invention is characterized by having a viscosity of 2,000 to 110,000 mPa·s, preferably 40,000 to 100,000 mPa·s, and particularly preferably 70,000 to 90,000 mPa·s, wherein the viscosity in each case is at 20 o Measured under C.

[0064] The parameters for viscosity measurement are:

[0065] Apparatus: Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; Temperature: 20°C o C; Rotor 5; Shear rate: 4 revolutions per minute (4 RPM).

[0066] These viscosities are very good for handling the reagent itself (preparation, dosing to prepare a mixture with an oxidizing agent and, if necessary, a fading accelerator).

[0067] Surprisingly, it has been found that the leveling properties of the blonding agent based on the preferred alkalizing components according to the present invention can be further improved by adding glucoheponic acid and / or at least one of its physiologically tolerable salts and / or lactones.

[0068] Therefore, the preferred alkalizing component according to the invention is characterized in that glucoheponic acid and / or at least one physiologically compatible salt and / or lactone thereof are preferably present in a total amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.5% by weight, especially preferably 0.8 to 1.1% by weight, in each case the weight of the alkalizing component is based on the weight of free glucoheponic acid.

[0069] Glucoheptonic acid (226.18 g / mol) is also known as d-glycerol-d-guloheptose. Physiologically acceptable salts of glucoheptonic acid suitable for the context of this invention particularly include alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, and earth metal salts, especially lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts, particularly sodium and potassium salts, and especially sodium salts. Sodium gluceptate (INCI: sodium gluceptate; 248 g / mol), a highly preferred form according to this invention, is commercially available.

[0070] According to the present invention, the preferred lactones of glucoheponic acid include 1,4-lactone (melting point 151°C). o C) and 1,5-lactone, wherein 1,4-lactone is particularly preferred.

[0071] The preferred alkalizing component according to the invention is characterized in that glucoheponic acid and / or at least one physiologically compatible salt and / or lactone thereof are present in a total amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.6 to 1.5% by weight, especially preferably 0.8 to 1.1% by weight, the amount being relative to the weight of the alkalizing component according to the invention as weight of free glucoheponic acid.

[0072] Surprisingly, it was found that the hair conditioning properties of bleaching agents based on the preferred alkalizing components according to the present invention can be further improved by adding at least one amination silicone.

[0073] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkalizing component according to the invention comprises at least one amination silicone. Preferred amination silicones are selected from compounds of structural formula (I).

[0074]

[0075] in

[0076]

[0077] in

[0078] i. x and y independently represent the numbers from 1 to 100.

[0079] ii. w represents a number from 0 to 100.

[0080] iii. z is a number from 1 to 100, where if z ≥ 2, the corresponding values ​​x, y, and w in structural part A can be chosen independently of the preceding structural part A.

[0081] and

[0082] iv. R1 and R2 independently represent the saturated, unsaturated, or polyunsaturated C5-C of straight or branched chains. 20 Alkyl, hydroxyl, C1-C 30 Alkoxy, carboxyl-C1-C 30 Alkyl or C1-C6 alkyl-(O-CH2-CH2)nO- groups,

[0083] Where n is an integer from 1 to 60.

[0084] The structural moiety A of the compound of formula (I) is composed of one or more moieties of 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]propyl-methylsiloxane and one or more moieties of dimethylsiloxane. The number of dimethylsiloxane moieties is defined by parameter x. The number of 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]propyl-methylsiloxane moieties is defined by parameter y. According to the invention, for numbers between 1 and 100, the values ​​of parameters x and y are independent of each other.

[0085] The number of structural portions A is defined by the parameter z. According to the invention, the value of the parameter z is from 1 to 100. If z ≥ 2, then the parameters x and y can be selected independently of the preceding structural portion A. Thus, for the case of z ≥ 2, individual structural portions A can differ from each other in the number of their 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]propyl-methylsiloxane portions and / or the number of their dimethylsiloxane portions.

[0086] The siloxane backbone of the compound of formula (I) is capped at both ends by groups R1 and R2, wherein R1 and R2 can independently represent the saturated, unsaturated, or polyunsaturated C5-C of the straight or branched chain. 20 Alkyl chain, hydroxyl group, C1-C 30 Alkoxy or C1-C6 alkyl-(O-CH2-CH2) n -O- group.

[0087] Another alkalizing component particularly preferred according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one amination silicone selected from a compound of structural formula (I) in a total weight of 0.1 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.9 to 1.1% by weight.

[0088] If R1 and / or R2 represent saturated, unsaturated, or polyunsaturated C5-C branches... 20 Alkyl groups, where the siloxane backbone is capped with aliphatic alkyl chains. In this invention, aliphatic alkyl chains are all straight-chain and / or branched saturated and / or unsaturated and / or polyunsaturated carbon chains, preferably C6-C. 30 Chain, with a special preference for C8-C 24 Chain, especially C 14 -C 20Chains. Examples of aliphatic alkyl chains according to the present invention are hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, octadecyl, nonadecanyl, eicosyl, dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl, isostearyl, (9Z)-tetradec-9-enyl, (9Z)-hexadec-9-enyl, (6Z)-octadec-6-enyl, (9Z)-octadec-9-enyl, (9E)-decyl Octadec-9-alkenyl, (11E)-octadec-11-alkenyl, (9Z)-eicos-9-alkenyl, (11Z)-eicos-11-alkenyl, (11Z)-docosa-11-alkenyl, (13Z)-docosa-13-alkenyl, (15Z)-docosa-15-alkenyl, (9Z,12Z)-octadec-9,12-dienyl, (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadec-9,12,15-trienyl (6Z,9Z,12Z)-octadec-6,9,12-trienyl, (8E,10E,12Z)-octadec-8,10,12-trienyl, (9Z,11E,13Z)-octadec-9,11,13-trienyl, (9Z,11E,13E)-octadec-9,11,13-trienyl, (9E,11E,13E)-octadec-9,11,13-trienyl, (5Z,8Z,11Z,1 (4Z)-eicos-5,8,11,14-tetraenyl, (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z)-eicos-5,8,11,14,17-pentaenyl, (7Z,10Z,13Z,16Z,19Z)-docosa-7,10,13,16,19-pentaenyl, (4Z,7Z,10Z,13Z,16Z,19Z)-docosa-4,7,10,13,16,19-hexadenyl. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the group R... 1 and R 2 Each can be independently represented as a straight-chain alkyl chain, preferably C. 14 -C 20 Alkyl groups, particularly tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, octadecyl, nonadecanyl, or eicosyl. Particularly preferred residues R. 1 and / or R 2 It is hexadecyl (cetyl) and / or octadecyl (stearyl). Cetearyl is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl; this mixture is also preferred.

[0089] In a preferred embodiment, the alkalizing component according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises a compound of formula (I), wherein the substituent R 1 and R 2 The C5-Cs that independently represent the saturated, unsaturated, or polyunsaturated nature of straight or branched chains. 20 -alkyl chain, preferably straight-chain C14 -C 20 -Alkyl chain, with a particularly preferred group H3C-(CH2) 13 - H3C-(CH2) 15 - H3C-(CH2) 17 - H3C-(CH2) 19 - members of the group.

[0090] According to the present invention, compounds of formula (I) are particularly preferred, wherein the group R 1 and R 2 They can be represented independently of each other, specifically H3C-(CH2). 15 -or H3C-(CH2) 17 In this case, the amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane of the present invention is a bis-stearyl amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane.

[0091] In a further preferred embodiment, the alkalizing component according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises at least one compound of formula (I), wherein R 1 It is H3C-(CH2) 15 -or H3C-(CH2) 17 - and R 2 It is H3C-(CH2) 15 -or H3C-(CH2) 17 Such compounds are known under the INCI name bis-cetearylamino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, which is available, for example, from Momentive under the trade name Silsoft AX. Therefore, another alkalizing component particularly preferred according to the invention is characterized by comprising 0.1 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.9 to 1.1% by weight of bis-cetearylamino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane.

[0092] Therefore, the particularly preferred alkalizing component according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one compound of formula (Ia), (Ib) and / or (Ic).

[0093]

[0094]

[0095] The structural unit (A) in equations (Ia), (Ib), and (Ic) is independent of each other.

[0096]

[0097] in

[0098] x and y represent values ​​from 1 to 100 independently.

[0099] z represents a value from 1 to 100, where if z ≥ 2, the corresponding values ​​x and y in structural part A can be chosen independently of the preceding structural part A.

[0100] Another particularly preferred alkalizing component is characterized in that it comprises, in each case, at least one compound of formula (Ia), (Ib) and / or (Ic) in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.9 to 1.1% by weight.

[0101] According to the present invention, another preferred amination silicone is selected from at least one compound of structural formula (II).

[0102] (II),

[0103] in

[0104] i. x and y independently represent numbers from 1 to 5000, wherein x preferably represents numbers from 10 to 1800, particularly preferably numbers from 100 to 1000, and wherein y preferably represents numbers from 1 to 80.

[0105] ii. R1 and R2 independently represent methyl or hydroxyl groups, and

[0106] iii. A represents a straight-chain or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8, preferably 3 to 6, particularly preferably 3 or 4 carbon atoms, preferably straight-chain propylidene-CH2-CH2-CH2- or branched isobutylidene-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2.

[0107] Another alkalizing component particularly preferred according to the invention is characterized in that, in each case, it comprises, based on its weight, at least one amination silicone of structural formula (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 1.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.9 to 1.1% by weight.

[0108] Another preferred amination silicone of the present invention is selected from at least one linear copolymer comprising blocks of polydimethylsiloxane units and blocks of polyethylene glycol-bis(2-methyl-2-propen-1-yl)ether monomers having the following structure (III), and end-capped with 3-{3-[bis(2-hydroxypropyl)amino]-2-hydroxypropoxy]propyl:

[0109] (III)

[0110] Where n = 14. This type of preferred linear copolymer has the INCI name bis(diisopropanol)amino-PG-propyl-dimethylpolysiloxane / bis(isobutyl)PEG-14 copolymer. This linear copolymer is available from Dow Corning in emulsion form under the trade name DC CE-8411Smooth Plus Emulsion.

[0111] The preferred alkalizing components according to the present invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one amination silicone selected from: compounds of structural formula (I), compounds of structural formula (II), linear copolymers, and mixtures of these compounds, said linear copolymer comprising blocks of polydimethylsiloxane units and blocks of polyethylene glycol-bis(2-methyl-2-propen-1-yl)ether monomers having structure (III), and end-capped with 3-{3-[bis(2-hydroxypropyl)amino]-2-hydroxypropoxy]propyl:

[0112] (III)

[0113] Where n = 14.

[0114] Other preferred alkalizing components according to the invention are characterized in that, in each case, based on the weight of the alkalizing component, they comprise at least one amination silicone selected from the following: compounds of structural formula (I), compounds of structural formula (II), linear copolymers, and mixtures thereof, wherein the linear copolymer comprises blocks of polydimethylsiloxane units and blocks of polyethylene glycol-bis(2-methyl-2-propen-1-yl)ether monomers having the following structure (III), and is end-capped with 3-{3-[bis(2-hydroxypropyl)amino]-2-hydroxypropoxy]propyl:

[0115] (III)

[0116] Where n = 14.

[0117] The preferred alkalizing components according to the present invention are characterized in that they do not contain 1,2-propanediol. During the development of the present invention, it was discovered that 1,2-propanediol negatively affects the skin compatibility of the fading agent.

[0118] Optional hair growth booster (blonde booster)

[0119] Optionally, an anhydrous composition containing persulfate can be added to a mixture of the alkalizing component and the aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation according to the invention or preferred embodiments thereof, which further enhances the desalination and bleaching properties of the overall bleaching composition. Anhydrous compositions containing persulfate and percarbonate are also commonly referred to as bleaching accelerators or lightening accelerators.

[0120] The preferred fading accelerator of this invention is in powder form.

[0121] According to the present invention, the term "powder" or "powdered" refers to a powder formed in 20... o A solid, free-flowing formulation consisting of individual particles that are solid at C and 1013 mbar, wherein the particles have a particle size from 0.1 µm to a maximum of 1.6 mm. Particle size determination can preferably be performed by laser diffraction according to ISO 13320-1 (2009). If necessary, the particle size of the fading accelerator can be adjusted by physical treatments such as sieving, pressing, granulation, or pelleting, or by adding certain auxiliary substances to meet the requirements of the fading accelerator, for example, allowing for better miscibility of the powder components or better miscibility of the fading accelerator with the reagents of the present invention or preferred reagents of the present invention and aqueous hydrogen peroxide formulations.

[0122] The hair growth promoters preferred according to the present invention have a bulk density of 500 to 1000 g / L, preferably 550 to 900 g / L, and particularly preferably 600 to 820 g / L. The bulk density is preferably determined according to EN ISO 600 DIN 53468.

[0123] Unless otherwise stated, all temperature specifications refer to a pressure of 1013 millibars.

[0124] The hair growth promoters preferred to be used according to the present invention contain at least one oxidant selected from inorganic salts of persulfate as a first essential component.

[0125] This hair growth accelerator is free of percarbonates, especially sodium percarbonate. Sodium percarbonate is a sodium carbonate-hydrogen peroxide complex. Commercial sodium percarbonate has an average composition of 2 Na₂CO₃·3 H₂O₂. Sodium percarbonate exists as a white, water-soluble powder and readily decomposes into sodium carbonate and "active" oxygen with bleaching and oxidizing properties.

[0126] Persulfate is either persulfate disulfate or persulfate monosulfate (carboxylic acid).

[0127] Preferably, at least one inorganic salt of the persulfate is selected from ammonium persulfate, alkali metal persulfates, ammonium persulfate, alkali metal permonosulfates, and alkali metal hydrogen persulfates. Ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, and potassium hydrogen persulfate are particularly preferred. Furthermore, during the development of this invention, it has proven particularly preferred that the hair-lightening accelerator used according to this invention comprises at least two different persulfates. Preferred persulfates are combinations of ammonium persulfate and potassium persulfate and / or sodium persulfate.

[0128] The hair lightening agent preferably used according to the invention comprises, in each case, at least one oxidizing agent selected from an inorganic salt of persulfate, in an amount of 5-100% by weight, preferably 10-98% by weight, particularly preferably 25-70% by weight, and especially preferably 30-50% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair lightening agent.

[0129] The anhydrous hair lightening accelerators preferred for use according to the present invention have a water content of 0 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the hair lightening accelerator. In the case of the above-mentioned water content of 0 to 8% by weight, the hair lightening accelerator is considered anhydrous by definition for the purposes of this application. These figures refer to the content of free water. The content of molecularly bound water or water of crystallization that may be present in individual powder components is not taken into consideration.

[0130] Water content can be determined by Karl Fischer titration according to ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).

[0131] The hair lightening agent preferably used according to the present invention preferably additionally contains at least one inorganic alkalizing agent, which is at 20 o At C and 1013 mbar, it is a solid, and its total amount is preferably 1-60% by weight, more preferably 5-55% by weight, particularly preferably 10-50% by weight, extremely preferably 15-45% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the hair growth promoter. According to the invention, it is particularly preferred to be at 20 o Inorganic alkalizing agents that are solid at C and 1013 mbar are selected from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal basic carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, (earth) alkali metal phosphates, and (earth) alkali metal hydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances. According to the invention, a particularly preferred method is to use an inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 mbar. oThe inorganic alkalizing agent that is a solid at C and 1013 mbar is selected from sodium silicate with a SiO2 / Na2O molar ratio of ≥ 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, as well as basic magnesium carbonate and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, preferred basic magnesium carbonates are those having the formula MgCO3·Mg(OH)2·2H2O and those having the formula MgCO3·Mg(OH)2. According to the invention, basic magnesium carbonate having the formula MgCO3·Mg(OH)2 is particularly preferred.

[0132] The hair growth promoters particularly preferred according to the invention, in each case, contain, based on their total weight, 20-50% by weight, preferably 22-40% by weight, and particularly preferably 23-30% by weight, sodium silicate with a SiO2 / Na2O molar ratio ≥ 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, as a component in 20 o C and 1013 mbar are solid alkalizing agents.

[0133] Other hair-lightening agents preferably used according to the invention, based on their total weight, comprise 20-50% by weight, preferably 30-45% by weight, particularly preferably 34-40% by weight, of sodium silicate with a SiO2 / Na2O molar ratio ≥ 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, and 2-20% by weight, preferably 5-15% by weight, particularly preferably 10-13% by weight, of basic magnesium carbonate having the formula MgCO3·Mg(OH)2, as in 20 o C and 1013 mbar are solid inorganic alkalizing agents.

[0134] The hair growth accelerator used in this invention does not contain any polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane.

[0135] Another object of the present invention is a packaging unit (kit) comprising—separately packaged—

[0136] - At least one container (C1) containing an alkalizing component (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention, and

[0137] - At least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40-96 wt%, preferably 68-93 wt%, particularly preferably 72-85 wt% water, and further comprising 0.5-23 wt%, more preferably 2.5-21 wt%, particularly preferably 4-20 wt%, very particularly preferably 5-18 wt%, especially preferably 6-12 wt% hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH value of 2.0-6.5, preferably 2.5-5.5, particularly preferably 2.8-5.0, wherein the pH value is in each case at 20. o The measurements are taken at C, where the weight % data for (M2) are based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2) in each case, and the oxidant formulation (M2) does not contain polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers or vinyl monomers and does not contain polyurethane.

[0138] According to the present invention, the preferred two-part hair coloring kit comprising the above-mentioned components (M1) and (M2) is configured such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) between the two components is 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2.

[0139] The descriptions above and below regarding the preferred embodiments of the reagent (M1) and reagent (M2) used according to the invention are adapted to the invention and the preferred hair coloring kit according to the invention, with necessary modifications.

[0140] Another object of the present invention is a packaging unit (kit) comprising—separately packaged—

[0141] - At least one container (C1) containing an alkalizing component (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention, and

[0142] - At least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40-96% by weight, preferably 68-93% by weight, particularly preferably 72-85% by weight of water, and further comprising 0.5-23% by weight, more preferably 2.5-21% by weight, particularly preferably 4-20% by weight, very particularly preferably 5-18% by weight, especially preferably 6-12% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH value of 2.0-6.5, preferably 2.5-5.5, particularly preferably 2.8-5.0, wherein the pH value is in each case at 20. oThe measurements were taken at C, where the weight % data for (M2) in each case are based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2), and the oxidant formulation (M2) does not contain polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane.

[0143] - At least one container (C3) containing a hair lightening accelerator composition (M3) preferably in powder form, and in each case, based on the weight of the hair lightening accelerator, comprising, in total, 5-100% by weight, preferably 10-98% by weight, particularly preferably 25-70% by weight, extremely preferably 30-50% by weight, at least one oxidant selected from persulfate and mixtures thereof, and 0-8% by weight, more preferably 0.1-5% by weight, especially preferably 0.5-2.5% by weight, of water, wherein the composition (M3) does not contain percarbonate, does not contain polymers and copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane.

[0144] According to the present invention, a preferred three-part hair coloring kit consisting of the above-mentioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) is configured such that the weight ratio of (M1):(M2):(M3) between the three components is 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, and (M3) is present in an amount of 5-25% by weight, preferably 7-20% by weight, and particularly preferably 7.5-17% by weight, based on the weight of the total mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3).

[0145] The descriptions above and below regarding the preferred embodiments of the device (M1) and the devices (M2) and (M3) used in the present invention are adapted to the present invention and the preferred hair coloring kit of the present invention, with necessary modifications.

[0146] Another subject of the present invention is a method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching, the method comprising the following steps:

[0147] i) Provide an alkalizing component (M1) according to the invention or a preferred embodiment of the invention, and

[0148] ii) Provide an oxidizing agent formulation (M2) comprising 40-96 wt%, preferably 68-93 wt%, particularly preferably 72-85 wt% water, further comprising 0.5-23 wt%, more preferably 2.5-21 wt%, particularly preferably 4-20 wt%, most preferably 5-18 wt%, especially preferably 6-12 wt% hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH value of 2.0-6.5, preferably 2.5-5.5, particularly preferably 2.8-5.0, wherein the pH value is in each case at 20. o The weight percent data measured under C are based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2) in each case. The oxidant formulation (M2) does not contain polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane.

[0149] iii) The alkalizing component (M1) and the oxidizing agent (M2) are preferably mixed at a weight ratio of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2 (M1): (M2), and then directly

[0150] iv) At room temperature and / or 30-60°C o C. Preferably 32-50 o C. Apply the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leave it on the hair for 1-60 minutes, preferably 20-45 minutes.

[0151] v) Rinse the hair with water and / or a cleaning composition, and

[0152] vi) If necessary, apply a post-treatment agent to the hair and rinse if necessary, followed by drying.

[0153] Another subject of the present invention is a method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching, the method comprising the following steps:

[0154] i) Provide an alkalizing component (M1) according to the invention or a preferred embodiment of the invention, and

[0155] ii) Provide an oxidizing agent formulation (M2) comprising 40-96 wt%, preferably 68-93 wt%, particularly preferably 72-85 wt% water, further comprising 0.5-23 wt%, more preferably 2.5-21 wt%, particularly preferably 4-20 wt%, most preferably 5-18 wt%, especially preferably 6-12 wt% hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH value of 2.0-6.5, preferably 2.5-5.5, particularly preferably 2.8-5.0, wherein the pH value is in each case at 20.o The weight percent data measured under C are based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2) in each case. The oxidant formulation (M2) does not contain polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane.

[0156] iii) Provides a hair lightening accelerator composition (M3) preferably in powder form, which does not contain percarbonate, polymers and copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers or vinyl monomers and does not contain polyurethane, and, based on the weight of the hair lightening accelerator, the composition contains, in total, 5-100% by weight, preferably 10-98% by weight, particularly preferably 25-70% by weight, extremely preferably 30-50% by weight of at least one oxidant selected from inorganic salts and mixtures thereof selected from persulfate, and 0-8% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-2.5% by weight of water.

[0157] iv) The alkalizing component (M1) is preferably mixed with the oxidizing agent (M2) and the hair growth promoter composition (M3) in a weight ratio of (M1):(M2):(M3) such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, and the total weight of the mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3) contains 5-25% by weight, preferably 7-20% by weight, and particularly preferably 7.5-17% by weight of (M3), and then directly...

[0158] v) At room temperature and / or 30-60°C o C. Preferably 32-50 o C) The mixture obtained in step iv) is applied to the hair and left on the hair for 1-60 minutes, preferably 20-45 minutes.

[0159] vi) Rinse the hair with water and / or a cleaning composition, and

[0160] vii) If necessary, apply a post-treatment agent to the hair and rinse if necessary, followed by drying.

[0161] According to the preferred method of the present invention for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching using the above-described components (M1), (M2) and (M3), the weight ratio (M1): (M2): (M3) of the three components is designed such that the weight ratio (M1): (M2) is 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, and (M3) is present in an amount of 5-25% by weight, preferably 7-20% by weight, and particularly preferably 7.5-17% by weight, based on the weight of the total mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3) of the three components.

[0162] The description above and below regarding the preferred embodiments of the alkalizing component (M1) and the reagents (M2) and (M3) used according to the invention, after necessary modifications, is applicable to the methods for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to the invention and the preferred methods according to the invention.

[0163] For methods of oxidative hair thinning, the alkalizing component (M1) according to the invention is typically mixed with an aqueous composition (M2) containing an oxidant to form a ready-to-use hair thinner or bleach just before application to the hair, which is then applied to the hair. In most cases, the alkalizing component (M1) and the oxidant-containing composition (M2) according to the invention are matched to each other in such a way that, at a mixing ratio of 1:1 by weight, an initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2) of 0.5-12% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight, particularly preferably 3-6% by weight, is present in the final application composition, based on the weight of the application mixture in each case. However, the alkalizing component (M1) according to the invention can also be matched to each other in such a way that the desired concentration in the ready-to-use thinner or bleach (application mixture) is obtained by a mixing ratio other than 1:1, for example by a weight-related mixing ratio of 1:2, 1:3, or even 2:3.

[0164] According to the present invention, the preferred weight-related mixing ratio (M1) : (M2) is 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, and particularly preferably 1:1 to 1:2.

[0165] According to the present invention, the term "room temperature" refers to the temperature in a room where an individual typically uses hair lightening or bleaching products, i.e., a typical bathroom or hair salon, wherein the temperature is 10-29°C. o C.

[0166] If the hair is heated, for example, with a heat shield or radiant heater, then in step v) of the hair lightening or bleaching method according to the invention or a preferred method according to the invention, the hair lightening application mixture can be left on for at least 30 minutes. o C. Preferably between 30-60 oC. Particularly preferred at 32-50 o Perform under C.

[0167] The oxidant preparation (M2) used in the desalination or bleaching kit according to the invention and in the preferred desalination and bleaching methods according to the invention, in each case contains 40-96% by weight, preferably 68-93% by weight, and particularly preferably 72-85% by weight of water, based on its weight.

[0168] The oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used in the hair lightening or bleaching kit and hair lightening or bleaching method according to the present invention and preferred thereof further comprises, in each case, 0.5-23% by weight, more preferably 2.5-21% by weight, particularly preferably 4-20% by weight, very particularly preferably 5-18% by weight, and extremely preferably 6-12% by weight of hydrogen peroxide.

[0169] To stabilize hydrogen peroxide, the oxidant formulation (M2) has a pH of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, and particularly preferably 2.8 to 5.0, wherein the pH is in each case at 20. o Measured at C. The oxidizing agent formulation (M2) does not contain any polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane.

[0170] The ready-to-use hair lightening compositions according to the present invention, comprising an alkalizing component (M1) and an oxidizing agent (M2) according to the present invention or preferred thereof, and optionally a hair lightening agent (M3), are characterized in that they have a viscosity of 5,000 to 45,000 mPa·s, preferably 10,000 to 35,000 mPa·s, particularly preferably 15,000 to 30,000 mPa·s, wherein the viscosity in each case is at 20 o These viscosities were measured at C. These viscosities are excellent for handling the reagent itself (preparation, spreadability on hair, residence behavior during application). The viscosity measurement parameters are:

[0171] Apparatus: Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; Temperature: 20°C o C; Rotor 5; Shear rate: 4 revolutions per minute (4 RPM).

[0172] The oxidant formulation (M2) used in the preferred hair lightening kit and the preferred hair lightening method according to the invention comprises, in a total amount of 0.05-2% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.5% by weight, at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; and in a total amount of 1-5% by weight, preferably 1.5-4% by weight, at least one straight-chain saturated 1-alkanol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, said 1-alkanol being selected from 1-tetradecanool (myristol), 1-hexadecanool (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanool (stearyl alcohol), and 1-eicosanool (arachidonic acid), and mixtures thereof, all amounts based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2).

[0173] For the purposes of this application, the aforementioned straight-chain saturated 1-alkanols with hydroxyl groups are not considered surfactants.

[0174] The anionic surfactant used in the oxidant formulation (M2) according to the present invention is selected from the same anionic surfactants selected from the anionic surfactants contained in the reagent (M1) according to the present invention.

[0175] Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants for the oxidant formulation (M2) used according to the invention are selected from: castor oil ethoxylated with 7-80 moles of ethylene oxide per mole; C8-C4 oil ethoxylated with 5-30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole. 24 Alkyl alcohols; C8-C ethoxylated with 5-30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole. 24 Carboxylic acids; hydroxylable straight-chain saturated and unsaturated C246 ... 12 – C 30 Dehydrated sorbitol monoesters of carboxylic acids, particularly dehydrated sorbitol monoesters of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or mixtures of these fatty acids; alkyl monoglycosides and oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and their ethoxylated analogs ethoxylated per mole with 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Ethoxylated C8-C 24 -Alkyl alcohols have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1Representing straight-chain or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl groups having 8-24 carbon atoms, and n being the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, representing 5-30, preferably 6-20, particularly preferably 6-12 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of an alkanol, said alkanol preferably selected from octanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, isotrecanol, tridecanoyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palm oil alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isost, oleyl alcohol, transoleyl alcohol, phellandrene alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, eicosene alcohol, behenyl alcohol, purslane alcohol, and basilyl alcohol, and industrial mixtures thereof. Additions of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with industrial fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut fatty alcohol, palm fatty alcohol, palm kernel fatty alcohol, or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable. Particularly preferred are tridecyl alcohol polyether-6, isotridecyl alcohol polyether-6, undecyl alcohol polyether-6, myristyl alcohol polyether-6, lauryl alcohol polyether-10, lauryl alcohol polyether-12, lauryl alcohol polyether-15, lauryl alcohol polyether-20, lauryl alcohol polyether-30, myristyl alcohol polyether-10, myristyl alcohol polyether-12, myristyl alcohol polyether-15, myristyl alcohol polyether-20, myristyl alcohol polyether-30, cetyl alcohol polyether-10, cetyl alcohol polyether-12, cetyl alcohol polyether-15, cetyl alcohol polyether-20, cetyl alcohol polyether-30, stearyl alcohol polyether-10, stearyl alcohol polyether-12, stearyl alcohol polyether-15, stearyl alcohol polyether-20, stearyl alcohol polyether-30, oleyl alcohol polyether-10, oleyl alcohol polyether-12, and oleyl alcohol polyether. -15, oleyl alcohol polyether-20, oleyl alcohol polyether-30, cetearyl alcohol polyether-10, cetearyl alcohol polyether-15, cetearyl alcohol polyether-12, cetearyl alcohol polyether-15, cetearyl alcohol polyether-20, cetearyl alcohol polyether-30, and cocoyl alcohol polyether-10, cocoyl alcohol polyether-12, cocoyl alcohol polyether-15, cocoyl alcohol polyether-20 and cocoyl alcohol polyether-30; particularly preferred are castor oil ethoxylates, especially PEG-40 castor oil, and ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially cetearyl alcohol polyether-20 and stearyl alcohol polyether-20, and mixtures of castor oil ethoxylates and ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially mixtures of PEG-40 castor oil, cetearyl alcohol polyether-20 and stearyl alcohol polyether-20.

[0177] The preferred oxidizing agent formulation (M2) according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.5-2.5% by weight, preferably 1.0-1.6% by weight, based on the weight of (M2) in each case. The preferred oxidizing agent formulation (M2) according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.5-2.5% by weight, preferably 1.0-1.6% by weight, based on the weight of (M2) in each case. The nonionic surfactant is selected from castor oil ethoxylates, particularly PEG-40 castor oil, and ethoxylated fatty alcohols, particularly cetyl ether-20 and stearyl ether-20, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidant formulation (M2) used according to the invention comprises at least one oil in a total amount of 0.2-50% by weight, preferably 2-40% by weight, particularly preferably 5-30% by weight, and especially preferably 10-12% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2) in each case.

[0179] In each case, based on the weight of formulation (M2), the total amount contained in the oxidant formulation (M2) is 0.2-50% by weight, preferably 2-40% by weight, particularly preferably 5-30% by weight, and especially preferably 10-12% by weight, of at least one oil preferably selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably selected from mineral oil, kerosene, C 18 -C 30 Isoalkanes (especially isoeicosaecanes), polyisobutylene and polydecene, C8-C 16 Isoalkanes, and 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane; straight-chain or branched C8- 22 Benzoate esters of alkanols; straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8- 30 Triglycerides of fatty acids (especially those from natural oils); straight-chain or branched C2-C 10 Dicarboxylic acid esters of alkanols; esters of straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms that can be hydroxylated; branched fatty alcohols; C8-C of monovalent or polyvalent C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids. 22 Fatty alcohol esters; carbonic acid and C3- 22 Alkyl alcohols, C3- 22 Alkyl glycol or C3- 22Symmetrical, asymmetric, or cyclic esters of alkyltriols, and mixtures thereof. In this context, particularly preferred oils according to the invention are selected from at least one ester of a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol having 2-30 carbon atoms and a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 2-30 carbon atoms that can be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof; particularly preferred are isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Cationic surfactants in oxidant formulation (M2)

[0181] The aforementioned viscosity of the preferred reagent (M1) according to the invention is excellent for handling the reagent itself (preparation, filling, and dosing to prepare a mixture with the oxidizing agent). The oxidizing agent (M2) typically has a low viscosity of 10-6000 mPas, preferably 200-5000 mPas, and particularly preferably 1000-4500 mPas, said viscosity being at 20 o The measurement is taken at C. However, for application to hair, the application mixture should have a significantly higher viscosity so that it remains on the hair without dripping throughout the application time (5-60 minutes, preferably 30-45 minutes). A distinction is made here: the application mixture is prepared by shaking compositions (M1) and (M2) and (if applicable) (M3) in an application bottle, thereby applying the application mixture to the hair immediately after mixing using an application nozzle attached to the bottle (bottle application); or, the application mixture is prepared by stirring both compositions (M1) and (M2) and (if applicable) (M3) in a bowl, thereby applying the application mixture to the hair immediately after mixing using a brush (brush application). Bottle application is particularly suitable for colorants sold in retail stores for consumer self-use. Brush application is particularly suitable for colorants prepared by hairdressers in hair salons and applied to consumers' hair.

[0182] Surprisingly, it was found that by mixing the reagent (M1) according to the invention or a preferred reagent according to the invention with an oxidizing agent formulation (M2) containing at least one cationic surfactant, an application mixture with a viscosity particularly suitable for brush application was obtained. During mixing, the interaction between at least one anionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant results in a desired increase in viscosity. The paste-like consistency of the resulting application mixture leads to optimal application performance, particularly for brush application.

[0183] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidant formulation (M2) used according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant in a preferred total amount of 0.05-3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.3-0.9% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2) in each case.

[0184] Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surfactant compounds, each possessing one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Typically, these surfactants consist of a hydrophobic moiety and a hydrophilic head group; the hydrophobic moiety is usually composed of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., one or two straight-chain or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge resides in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solutions above the critical micelle formation concentration to form positively charged micelles.

[0185] According to the present invention, quaternary ammonium compounds, ester-based quaternary ammonium salts, and cationic surfactants of the alkyl amide type are preferred. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride, trialkylmethylammonium chloride, and imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternary Ammonium Salt-27 and Quaternary Ammonium Salt-83. Other preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, particularly, Quaternary Ammonium Salt-52 known under the INCI name poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl),((octadecylazonyl)tri-2,1-ethanediyl)tri(hydroxy)phosphate (1:1) salt, which has the general formula (III), where x + y + z = 10:

[0186] (III).

[0187] The long alkyl chain of the above-mentioned surfactant preferably has 10 to 22, particularly preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride are particularly preferred, among which stearyltrimethylammonium chloride is extremely preferred. Other cationic surfactants suitable according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates. Alkyl amides are generally produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid fractions with dialkyl amides. Tegoamid® S 18 (stearoamide propyl dimethylamine) is a suitable compound of this group of substances. Ester quaternary ammonium salts are substances that simultaneously contain at least one ester functional group and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural elements. Preferred ester quaternary ammonium salts are quaternized esters of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized esters of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamine, and quaternized esters of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamine.

[0188] C10-C22 alkyltrimethylammonium chloride has proven particularly suitable for optimal application performance and dilution effect. Therefore, the particularly preferred oxidant formulation (M2) used according to the invention is characterized by comprising, in a total amount of 0.05-3 wt%, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5 wt%, or 0.3-0.9 wt% (based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2) in each case), at least one of the most preferred cationic surfactants, preferably at least one selected from C10-C22-alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred oxidant formulation (M2) used according to the invention comprises, based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2), a total amount of 0.05-3 wt%, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5 wt%, and most preferably 0.3-0.9 wt% stearyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0189] The other preferred packaging unit (set of components) according to the invention and the other preferred desalination method according to the invention are each characterized in that, in each case, based on the weight of the oxidant preparation (M2), the oxidant preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05-3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-1.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.3-0.9% by weight.

[0190] The other preferred assembly components and the other preferred desalination methods according to the invention are each characterized in that, in each case, based on the weight of the oxidant preparation (M2), the oxidant preparation (M2) comprises, in a total amount of 0.05-2% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.5% by weight, at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; and in a total amount of 1-5% by weight, preferably 1.5-4% by weight, at least one straight-chain saturated 1-alkanol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, said 1-alkanol being selected from 1-tetradecanool (myristol), 1-hexadecanool (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanool (stearyl alcohol), and 1-eicosanool (arachidonic alcohol), and mixtures thereof.

[0191] The other preferred assembly components and the other preferred desalination methods according to the invention are each characterized in that, in each case, based on the weight of the oxidant preparation (M2), the oxidant preparation (M2) comprises, in total, 0.05-2% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.5% by weight, at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; in total, 1-5% by weight, preferably 1.5-4% by weight, at least one straight-chain saturated 1-alkanol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, selected from 1-tetradecanool (myristol), 1-hexadecanool (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanool (stearyl alcohol), and 1-eicosanool (arachidonic alcohol) and mixtures thereof; and in total, 0.2-50% by weight, preferably 2-40% by weight, particularly preferably 5-30% by weight, especially preferably 10-12% by weight, at least one oil.

[0192] The oxidant formulation (M2) used according to the present invention, and preferably used according to the present invention, may also contain stabilizers, especially complexing agents and pH buffers.

[0193] For the cosmetic reagent (M1) in container C1 and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in container C2 of the kit of the present invention and the preferred kit of the present invention, the contents described regarding the cosmetic of the present invention and the preferred cosmetic of the present invention are applied with necessary modifications.

[0194] For the cosmetic reagent (M1) in container C1 of the present invention and the preferred method of oxidative hair lightening according to the present invention, the contents described in relation to the present invention and the preferred method of cosmetic reagent according to the present invention are applied with necessary modifications.

[0195] The oxidant preparation (M2) in container C2 of the oxidative hair lightening method according to the present invention and the preferred method according to the present invention is also applicable to the oxidative preparation (M2) of the oxidative hair lightening kit according to the present invention and the preferred method according to the present invention.

[0196] The walls of containers C1 and C2 are preferably made of polyolefins such as polypropylene (PP), high-density polyethylene (HDPE), medium-density polyethylene (MDPE), low-density polyethylene (LDPE), and linear low-density polyethylene (LLDPE). Among these, polyethylene, especially high-density polyethylene (HDPE), is preferred.

[0197] To improve the mixing of (M1) and (M2), it is preferable to design the container (C2) containing the oxidant preparation (M2) as a bottle with a resealable opening, such as a latch or nut. This makes it easier to add the color-changing agent from the container (C1), which is preferably in the form of a polyolefin bottle.

[0198] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention, but are not intended to limit it.

[0199] Experimental Section

[0200] The following alkalizing component (M1), oxidizing agent formulation (M2), and hair growth promoter composition (M3) were prepared by mixing the listed ingredients together (all amounts are in weight %):

[0201] Table 1: Alkalization Component (M1)

[0202]

[0203] Viscosity: 74700 mPas (Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; 20) o C; Rotor 5; 4 RPM)

[0204] pH value: 10.64 (20 o C)

[0205] Table 2: Alkalization Component (M1)

[0206]

[0207] Viscosity: 80,400 mPas (Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; 20) o C; Rotor 5; 4 RPM)

[0208] pH value: 11.24 (20 o C)

[0209] Table 3: Alkalization Component (M1)

[0210]

[0211] Viscosity: 78,700 mPas (Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; 20) o C; Rotor 5; 4 RPM)

[0212] pH value: 10.48 (20 o C)

[0213] Table 4: Oxidizing Agent Preparation (M2)

[0214]

[0215] Table 5: Hair Growth Promoter No. 1 (M3)

[0216]

[0217] Table 6: Hair Growth Promoter No. 2 (M3)

[0218]

[0219] Preparation of ready-to-use hair thinning agent

[0220] Hair thinning agent #1:

[0221] The alkalizing component according to Table 1 is mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) according to Table 4 and the hair growth promoter (M3) according to Table 6 at a weight ratio of (M1):(M2):(M3) of 50:50:20.

[0222] The obtained hair thinning agent No. 1 has the following properties:

[0223] Viscosity: 28,700 mPas (Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; 20) o C; Rotor 5; 4 RPM)

[0224] pH value: 10.07 (20 o C)

[0225] Hair thinning agent #2:

[0226] The alkalizing component according to Table 2 is mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) according to Table 4 and the hair growth promoter (M3) according to Table 5 at a mixing ratio of 60:60:10 by weight.

[0227] The obtained hair thinning agent No. 2 has the following properties:

[0228] Viscosity: 23,500 mPas (Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; 20) o C; Rotor 5; 4 RPM)

[0229] pH value: 9.95 (20 o C)

[0230] Hair thinning agent #3:

[0231] The alkalizing component according to Table 3 is mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) according to Table 4 and the hair growth promoter (M3) according to Table 6 at a mixing ratio of 50:50:20 by weight.

[0232] The obtained hair lightening agent No. 3 has the following properties:

[0233] Viscosity: 27,000 mPas (Brookfield RDV-II+ viscometer; 20) o C; Rotor 5; 4 RPM)

[0234] pH value: 9.97 (20 o C)

[0235] Application:

[0236] Apply ready-to-use hair thinning agent #1, #2, or #3 to the dry hair to be thinned, and rinse with water after 30-45 minutes of exposure. Shampoo the hair again, and if necessary, shampoo again, treat with a conditioner, shampoo again, towel dry, and then leave on for 35-80 minutes. o Dry under C.

[0237] Using the hair lightening agent No. 1 according to the invention, nine shade levels of hair lightening (“high lift”) were achieved.

[0238] Using the No. 2 hair lightening agent according to the present invention, hair lightening in 7 shade levels was achieved.

[0239] Using the No. 3 hair lightening agent according to the present invention, hair lightening in 8 shade levels was achieved.

[0240] The consistency of the applied mixture and the uniformity of the dilution effect are improved due to the alkalizing component according to the present invention. tone

[0241] Table 7: Alkalization Component (M1)

[0242]

[0243] According to the present invention, hair lightening agent No. 4:

[0244] The alkalizing component (M1)-E according to the invention, as shown in Tables 3 and 7 respectively, is mixed with the oxidizing agent (M2) as shown in Table 4 and the hair growth promoter (M3) as shown in Table 6 at a mixing ratio of 50:50:20 by weight.

[0245] Contrast hair thinning agent #5 (not based on this invention):

[0246] The non-alkalinizing component (M1) according to Table 7 is mixed with the oxidizing agent (M2) according to Table 4 and the hair growth promoter (M3) according to Table 6 at a mixing ratio of 50:50:20 by weight.

[0247] Application:

[0248] The ready-to-use type 4 or 5 (not according to the invention) hair thinning agent was applied to the dry hair of 3 test subjects.

[0249] The hair was exposed in the connected area for 40 minutes.

[0250] The exposure time to hair in the length region is 5 minutes.

[0251] After the exposure time, rinse the desiccant off the hair with water. Towel dry the hair, then... o Dry under C.

[0252] For each criterion mentioned in the table below, a trained hairdresser will assess it on a scale of 1 to 6, where 1 represents “poor” and 6 represents “excellent”.

[0253]

[0254]

[0255] By using the alkalizing component according to the invention, better dilution uniformity is achieved compared to the use of the comparative composition, and therefore the dilution agent according to the invention exhibits better leveling ability.

[0256] The color depth of the lightening effect is improved by the alkalizing component according to the present invention.

[0257] Table 8: Alkalization Component (M1)

[0258]

[0259] According to the present invention, hair thinning agent No. 6:

[0260] The alkalizing component (M1)-E according to the invention, as shown in Tables 1 and 8 respectively, is mixed with the oxidizing agent (M2) as shown in Table 4 and the hair growth promoter (M3) as shown in Table 6 at a mixing ratio of 50:50:20 by weight.

[0261] Contrast hair lightening agent #7 (not based on this invention):

[0262] The non-alkalinizing component (M1) according to Table 8 is mixed with the oxidizing agent (M2) according to Table 4 and the hair growth promoter (M3) according to Table 6 at a mixing ratio of 50:50:20 by weight.

[0263] Application:

[0264] The ready-to-use hair thinning agent No. 6 or No. 7 (not according to the invention) was applied to the dry hair of three test subjects.

[0265] The hair was exposed in the connected area for 40 minutes.

[0266] The exposure time to hair in the length region is 5 minutes.

[0267] After the exposure time, rinse the desiccant off the hair with water. Towel dry the hair, then...o Dry under C.

[0268] For each criterion mentioned in the table below, a trained hairdresser will assess it on a scale of 1 to 6, where 1 represents “poor” and 6 represents “excellent”.

[0269]

[0270]

[0271] Using the alkalizing component according to the invention, a better color depth reduction is achieved compared to using a comparative composition.

[0272] The improved spreading ability of the application mixture with the alkalizing component according to the invention on hair can also be demonstrated by applying two application mixtures (with or without the alkalizing component according to the invention, or with a contrasting alkalizing component (M1)) to a glass plate and placing it at a slight angle. The contrasting application mixture slides completely off the plate, while the application mixture containing the alkalizing component according to the invention spreads out on the plate.

[0273] Swelling of the mixture applied during extended storage was tested.

[0274] Add 30 ml each of the hair lightening agent No. 6 according to the invention and the hair lightening agent No. 7 according to the invention to a 250 ml graduated cylinder. The volume increase of the hair lightening agent was recorded over 45 minutes, as shown in Table 9.

[0275] Table 9: Volume Changes of Hair Thinning Agent

[0276]

[0277] The application mixture of the present invention, containing the alkalizing component (M1), showed a lower volume increase than the comparative alkalizing component (M1) during prolonged storage contrary to the instructions. This improves the safety of the product for consumers.

Claims

1. An alkalizing component for use in oxidative hair thinning agents, comprising: - 81 - 92% water by weight - 1 - 2% xanthan gum, - 0.5 - 1.5% by weight of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, - At least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide and alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 3-9% by weight. - At least one oil, in a total amount of 0.5-7.0% by weight, wherein the at least one oil is selected from branched saturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, and esters of saturated straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms and hydroxylated saturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. - At least one surfactant in a total amount of 0.4-2% by weight, selected from anionic surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, amphoteric surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, amphoteric surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group, and alkyl oligoglycoside surfactants substituted with at least one C8-C14 alkyl group. - 0 - 0.1% by weight of peroxide, and - In each case, the total amount of glucoheponic acid and / or at least one physiologically tolerable salt and / or lactone, based on the weight of free glucoheponic acid relative to the weight of the alkalizing component, is 0.1 to 2% by weight. - All figures expressed as a percentage by weight are based on the weight of the alkalizing component. - The alkalizing component has a pH of 8.0 to 12.0, wherein the pH is at 20. o Measured under C, - It contains no percarbonate. - It contains no polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and it contains no polyurethanes, and - This excludes those with a melting point of 28. o C or higher fat content.

2. The alkalizing component according to claim 1, characterized in that, The alkalizing component has a viscosity of 2,000 to 110,000 mPa·s, and the viscosity is at 20 o Measured under C.

3. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, There are no polysaccharides other than xanthan gum and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose.

4. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The alkanolamine used as an alkalizing agent is selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl backbone carrying at least one hydroxyl group.

5. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The total amount of the at least one oil is 2.0-5.5% by weight.

6. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The total amount of the at least one oil is 3.5-5.0 by weight.

7. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The total amount of the glucoheponic acid and / or at least one physiologically tolerable salt and / or lactone is 0.6 to 1.5 by weight.

8. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The total amount of the glucoheponic acid and / or at least one of its physiologically tolerable salts and / or lactones is 0.8 to 1.1 by weight.

9. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The alkalizing component has a pH of 9.6 to 11.

5.

10. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The alkalizing component has a pH of 10.0 to 11.

0.

11. The alkalizing component according to claim 2, characterized in that, The alkalizing component has a viscosity of 40,000 to 100,000 mPa·s.

12. The alkalizing component according to claim 2, characterized in that, The alkalizing component has a viscosity of 70,000 to 90,000 mPa·s.

13. The alkalizing component according to claim 4, characterized in that, The alkanolamine used as an alkalizing agent is selected from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminoprop-1-ol, 4-aminobut-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminoprop-2-ol, 1-aminobut-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylprop-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylprop-2-ol, 3-aminoprop-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylprop-1,3-diol, as well as mixtures thereof.

14. The alkalizing component according to claim 4, characterized in that, The alkanolamine used as an alkalizing agent is selected from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylprop-1-ol, and 2-amino-2-methylprop-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

15. The alkalizing component according to claim 4, characterized in that, The alkanolamine used as an alkalizing agent is selected from 2-aminoethanol.

16. The alkalizing component according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, At least one amination silicone is also present.

17. The alkalizing component according to claim 16, characterized in that, The total amount of the amination silicone, in each case based on the weight of the alkalizing component, is 0.1 to 2 by weight.

18. The alkalizing component according to claim 16, characterized in that, The total amount of the amination silicone, in each case based on the weight of the alkalizing component, is 0.7 to 1.5 by weight.

19. The alkalizing component according to claim 16, characterized in that, The total amount of the amination silicone, in each case based on the weight of the alkalizing component, is 0.9 to 1.1 by weight.

20. A packaging unit comprising—each individually packaged— - At least one container (C1) containing the alkalizing component according to any one of claims 1 to 19, and - At least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40-96% by weight water, and also comprising 0.5-23% by weight hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH value of 2.0-6.5, wherein the pH value in each case is above 20. o The measurements are taken at C, wherein the weight % data for (M2) in each case are based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2), and the oxidant formulation (M2) does not contain polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers or vinyl monomers and does not contain polyurethane.

21. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) contains 68-93% by weight of water.

22. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) contains 72-85% by weight of water.

23. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 2.5-21 by weight.

24. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 4-20% by weight.

25. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 5-18 by weight.

26. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 6-12 by weight.

27. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) has a pH value of 2.5-5.

5.

28. The packaging unit according to claim 20, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) has a pH value of 2.8-5.

0.

29. The packaging unit according to any one of claims 20 to 28, characterized in that, The packaging unit further includes at least one container (C3) containing a hair lightening accelerator composition (M3), which does not contain percarbonate, polymers and copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers or vinyl monomers and does not contain polyurethane, and in each case, based on the weight of the hair lightening accelerator, contains a total of 5-100% by weight of at least one inorganic salt selected from persulfate and 0-8% by weight of water.

30. The packaging unit according to claim 29, characterized in that, The hair growth promoter composition (M3) is in powder form.

31. The packaging unit according to claim 29, characterized in that, The total amount of the oxidant is 10-98% by weight.

32. The packaging unit according to claim 29, characterized in that, The total amount of the oxidant is 25-70% by weight.

33. The packaging unit according to claim 29, characterized in that, The total amount of the oxidant is 30-50% by weight.

34. The packaging unit according to claim 29, characterized in that, The total amount of water is 0.1-5% by weight.

35. The packaging unit according to claim 29, characterized in that, The total amount of water is 0.5 - 2.5 by weight.

36. A method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching, comprising the following steps: i) Provide the alkalizing component (M1) according to any one of claims 1 to 19, ii) Provide an oxidizing agent formulation (M2) comprising 40-96% by weight water, further comprising 0.5-23% by weight hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH of 2.0-6.5, wherein the pH is at 20 in each case. o The weight % data for (M2) measured at C is based on the weight of the oxidant formulation (M2) in each case, and the oxidant formulation (M2) does not contain polymers or copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane. iii) Mix the alkalizing component (M1) with the oxidizing agent (M2), and then directly... iv) At room temperature or 30-60°C o C. Apply the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leave it on the hair for 1-60 minutes. v) Rinse the hair with water and / or a cleaning composition, and vi) If necessary, apply a post-treatment agent to the hair and rinse if necessary, followed by drying.

37. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) contains 68-93% by weight of water.

38. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) contains 72-85% by weight of water.

39. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 2.5-21 by weight.

40. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 4-20% by weight.

41. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 5-18 by weight.

42. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The total amount of hydrogen peroxide is 6-12 by weight.

43. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) has a pH value of 2.5-5.

5.

44. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The oxidant formulation (M2) has a pH value of 2.8-5.

0.

45. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The alkalizing component (M1) and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) are mixed in a weight ratio of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5 (M1):(M2).

46. ​​The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, The alkalizing component (M1) and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) are mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1 to 1:2 (M1):(M2).

47. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, In step iv), at 32-50 o C. Apply the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair.

48. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, In step iv), allow the mixture to remain on the hair for 20-45 minutes.

49. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 36, characterized in that, Prior to mixing the individual components (M1) and (M2), a hair lightening accelerator composition (M3) is further provided, which does not contain percarbonate, polymers and copolymers containing acrylate monomers, methacrylate monomers, or vinyl monomers, and does not contain polyurethane, and in each case, based on the weight of the hair lightening accelerator, contains a total of 5-100% by weight of at least one inorganic salt selected from persulfate as an oxidant, and 0-8% by weight of water, then... The cosmetic reagent (M1) is mixed with the oxidizing agent (M2) and the hair lightening agent composition (M3) in a weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, and the content of (M3) is 5-25% by weight based on the total weight of the mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3). Then directly at room temperature or 30-60 degrees Celsius. o The mixture obtained therefrom is then applied to the hair and left on for 1-60 minutes. The hair is then rinsed directly with water and / or a cleaning composition, and If necessary, apply a finishing agent to the hair and rinse it off if necessary, then dry.

50. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The hair growth promoter composition (M3) is in powder form.

51. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The total amount of the oxidant is 10-98% by weight.

52. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The total amount of the oxidant is 25-70% by weight.

53. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The total amount of the oxidant is 30-50% by weight.

54. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The total amount of water is 0.1-5% by weight.

55. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The total amount of water is 0.5 - 2.5 by weight.

56. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The cosmetic reagent (M1) is mixed with the oxidant preparation (M2) and the hair lightening agent composition (M3) in a weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is 1:1 to 1:

2.

57. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, Based on the total weight of the mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), the content of (M3) is 7-20% by weight.

58. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, Based on the total weight of the mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), the content of (M3) is 7.5-17% by weight.

59. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, In 32-50 o The mixture is applied to the hair at step C.

60. The method for oxidative hair lightening or bleaching according to claim 49, characterized in that, The mixture is left on the hair for 20-45 minutes.

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