Composition for conditioning and / or dyeing keratin fibres

By combining nonionic and ionic surfactants to form a reverse micelle system, the problem of low hydrophilic active ingredient content in hair products is solved, resulting in a transparent and stable composition with highly efficient conditioning and dyeing effects.

CN116419743BActive Publication Date: 2026-04-28LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2021-08-25
Publication Date
2026-04-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair conditioning and dyeing products contain low levels of hydrophilic active ingredients, making it difficult to achieve the beneficial effects of keratin fibers, and it is also difficult to balance product stability and transparent appearance.

Method used

A combination of nonionic and ionic surfactants is used to form a reverse micelle system, carrying a high content of hydrophilic active ingredients to form a transparent and stable composition.

Benefits of technology

It enables the delivery of high levels of hydrophilic active ingredients, providing long-term biological benefits while maintaining the transparent appearance and stability of the composition.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

A clear composition for conditioning and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising: a) a continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil, b) a surfactant group consisting of at least one non-ionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant, and c) a dispersed aqueous phase comprising an amount of water capable of carrying an effective amount of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and / or dyeing keratin fibers, wherein both the non-ionic surfactant and the ionic surfactant are lipophilic.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning and / or dyeing keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers, such as hair. Background Technology

[0002] Hair is often damaged and weakened by external atmospheric factors such as light and weather and / or mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0003] Many products containing lipophilic active ingredients are available for conditioning and / or coloring hair. For example, there are numerous hair oil products containing lipophilic active ingredients. To meet the needs of diverse consumers, cosmetic companies are keen to diversify their hair oil product offerings. However, the development of hair oil products presents a challenge in including hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning and / or coloring hair. Even when a certain amount of hydrophilic active ingredient is included in a hair oil product, this amount is relatively low, for example, less than 0.005% by weight. Therefore, such a relatively low amount cannot meet the expected beneficial effects on keratin fibers.

[0004] In addition, there is a strong desire to use products with a comfortable appearance, such as those with a transparent appearance, to provide beneficial effects for hair conditioning and / or coloring, and it is also expected that products used for conditioning and / or coloring hair will be stable over time.

[0005] Therefore, there remains a need to develop compositions for conditioning and / or dyeing keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, which contain a certain amount of water capable of carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning and / or dyeing hair and improving sensory properties, and which have a transparent appearance and are stable over time, thus providing long-term biological benefits to keratin fibers. Summary of the Invention

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent composition for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers, comprising:

[0007] a) A continuous oil phase comprising at least one oil;

[0008] b) A surfactant combination comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and

[0009] c) A dispersed aqueous phase containing a certain amount of water, said amount of water being able to carry an effective amount of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers;

[0010] Both nonionic and ionic surfactants are lipophilic.

[0011] Preferably, the dispersed aqueous phase contains water carrying about 0.01% by weight or more, up to about 0.1% by weight or even about 0.5% by weight of hydrophilic active ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] Compositions containing an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients provide consumers with active ingredients for nourishing keratin fibers and an improved sensory experience.

[0013] Furthermore, by incorporating the surfactant combination of the present invention, reverse micelles are formed in the composition, resulting in a transparent appearance and thermodynamic stability over time. Specifically, in the reverse micelle system, the water core can act as a cavity to encapsulate a relatively high amount of hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0014] Typically, to confine water within the core of reverse micelles, the micelles swell upon the addition of water, and thus a co-surfactant is required to maintain and even increase the swelling capacity of the reverse micelles. However, with the surfactant combination of the present invention, the formation of reverse micelles is driven by the self-assembly of the surfactant combination, and therefore the production of aqueous oils does not require an energy-consuming process. Therefore, it is unnecessary to add a co-surfactant, such as a fatty alcohol, to the compositions of the present invention to form the desired reverse micelles encapsulating an effective amount of the hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0015] In one embodiment, the surfactant combination of the present invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant, or at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant.

[0016] To meet safety standards and without harming the user's health, the surfactant combination is present in relatively low amounts. Specifically, the amount of at least one ionic surfactant is no more than about 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that even in very small amounts of a surfactant combination comprising at least one ionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant, the desired reverse micelles can be formed and maintained in the compositions of the present invention.

[0017] The above-described surfactant combination allows for a relatively high molar ratio of water to surfactant in the dispersed aqueous phase, with the water in the dispersed aqueous phase sufficient to carry approximately 0.01% by weight or even higher, up to approximately 0.1% by weight or even approximately 0.5% by weight, of the hydrophilic active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, a water-to-surfactant molar ratio of up to approximately 30 can be achieved.

[0018] In theory, any oil suitable for treating keratin fibers is suitable for the compositions of the present invention. In one embodiment, the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing 8 to 20 atoms, triglycerides, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups, ether oils, and mixtures thereof; and / or the amount of oil reaches 80% by weight or even higher, relative to the total weight of the composition, to obtain a continuous oil phase.

[0019] In one embodiment, the hydrophilic active ingredient comprises hydrophilic actives, dyes, and preservatives, such as proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts and hydroxy acids, acidic or basic hydrophilic dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides the above-described transparent composition as a hair oil, including leave-in hair oil and wash-out hair oil, preferably a leave-in hair oil, for use in providing long-term biologically beneficial effects to hair fibers.

[0021] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the following detailed description and examples. Brief description of the attached diagram

[0023] Figure 1 This corresponds to the multi-peak size distribution of sample 1 in Embodiment 1 of the present invention, which comes from the Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) device.

[0024] Figure 2 This corresponds to the multi-peak size distribution of sample 2 in Embodiment 2 of the present invention, which comes from the Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) device.

[0025] Figure 3 This corresponds to the multi-peak size distribution of sample 3 in Embodiment 7 of the present invention, which comes from the Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) device.

[0026] Figure 4 This corresponds to the multi-peak size distribution of sample 4 in Embodiment 8 of the present invention, which comes from the Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) device.

[0027] Each measurement of the Brookhaven DLS analyzer determines the average diameter (effective diameter) and distribution width (polydispersity) of the sample. The DLS measures the correlation function of intensity fluctuations, which can be mathematically converted into an intensity size distribution. The figure illustrates the multi-peak intensity size distribution of the sample when using a numerical algorithm.

[0028] Detailed description of the invention

[0029] As used herein, unless otherwise stated, the limits of a numerical range are included within that range, particularly in expressions “between…and…” and “from…to…”.

[0030] As used herein, the term “comprising” should be interpreted as including all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0031] As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses an implementation scheme in which no features other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., “composed of”) are present.

[0032] As used herein, the articles “a” and “a type” mean one or more types when applied to any feature of the embodiments of the invention described in the specification and claims. The use of “a” and “a type” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such limitation is expressly stated.

[0033] Unless otherwise specified, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where a definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains, the definition set forth herein shall prevail.

[0034] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​used in the specification and claims to represent component quantities, etc., should be understood to be modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless indicated otherwise, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximations that can be varied according to desired performance as needed.

[0035] As used herein, the term "keratin fiber" includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0036] As used herein, the expression "at least one / kind" is equivalent to the expression "one / kind or more / kinds".

[0037] As used herein, the term "reverse micelle" or "reversed micelle" is defined as follows: when a surfactant is dissolved in a nonpolar organic solvent, micelles form in the organic solvent when their concentration exceeds the critical micelle concentration (CMC). These are called reverse micelles or reverse micelles. In reverse micelles, the nonpolar groups of the surfactant are in external contact with the nonpolar organic solvent, while the polar groups are distributed internally to form a polar core. This polar core has the ability to dissolve polar substances. After water is contained in the polar core, it forms a "water pool" or "water core." Reverse micelles are nanoscale aggregates that are transparent and thermodynamically stable W / O systems.

[0038] As used herein, the term "lipophilic" means that a substance or material can dissolve or disperse in an oil phase at 25°C to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous phase.

[0039] As used herein, the term "effective amount" refers to the amount of hydrophilic active ingredient contained in the aqueous phase of the composition dispersion, said amount being sufficient to effectively condition and / or stain keratin fibers. According to the invention, the effective amount may be 0.01 wt%, 0.05 wt%, 0.1 wt%, 0.15 wt%, 0.2 wt%, 0.25 wt%, 0.3 wt%, or 0.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] oil phase

[0041] According to a first aspect of the invention, the composition comprises a continuous oil phase, which comprises at least one oil.

[0042] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in liquid or pasty (non-solid) form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0043] Oils commonly used in beauty products can be used alone or in combination, either as one or more oils. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, with non-volatile being preferred.

[0044] Oils can be non-polar oils such as hydrocarbons and silicones; polar oils such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or mixtures thereof.

[0045] Oils can be of plant or animal origin or synthetic oils.

[0046] Examples of vegetable oils may include, for example, flaxseed oil, camellia seed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia flower oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower seed oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and synthetic triglycerides.

[0048] Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C. 26 Aliphatic monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C bonds. 26 A liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is greater than or equal to 10.

[0049] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0050] Among the monoesters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, alkyl myristate esters such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isonononanoate, isodecanate neopentanoate, and isostearate neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0051] C4-C can also be used 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters of dihydroxyols, trihydroxyols, tetrahydroxyols or pentahydroxyols.

[0052] In particular, the following can be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropanol citrate; triisoceryl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trilactyl glycerol; trioctyl dodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisonononate.

[0053] As an ester oil, C6-C can be used. 30 Fatty acids, preferably C 12 -C 22 Glycoesters and diesters of fatty acids. Recall the term "sugar" as a compound based on an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon that contains several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and that contains at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0054] Suitable examples of sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, trehalose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example, methyl glucose.

[0055] The glycol esters of fatty acids may be selected, in particular, from the sugars previously described and from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C bonds. 30 Fatty acids, preferably C 12 -C 22 Esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0056] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester, decanoate, and arachidonic acid ester or mixtures thereof, especially, for example, mixed esters of oleopalatate, oleostearate, and palmostearate, and pentaerythritol tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0058] More specifically, monoesters and diesters are used, and especially sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalatate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester and oleostearate.

[0059] A notable example is the company Amerchol, named after it. The product sold by DO is methyl gluconate dioleate.

[0060] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyl dodecyl octanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate / decanoate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecanyl oleate, tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Examples of synthetic triglycerides include, for instance, caprylic / capric triglyceride, trimyristic triglyceride, tripalmitic triglyceride, trilinolenic triglyceride, trilauric triglyceride, tricapric triglyceride, tricapric triglyceride, and tri(capric / capric / linolenic) triglyceride.

[0062] Oils based on ether hydrocarbons, also known as ether oils, can be volatile or non-volatile, and are preferably non-volatile.

[0063] Ether-based oils are oils of the formula R1OR2, where R1 and R2 independently represent straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic C4-C. 24 Alkyl groups, preferably C6-C 18 Alkyl groups, and preferably C8-C. 12 Alkyl group. Preferably, R1 and R2 are the same.

[0064] The straight-chain alkyl groups that may be mentioned include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, octadecyl, nonadecanyl, eicosyl, behenyl, dodecyl, tridecyl and tetradecyl.

[0065] Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, tert-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotracene, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl.

[0066] The cyclic alkyl groups that may be mentioned include cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl.

[0067] Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Preferably, it is selected from dioctyl ether, dialcyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Dioctyl ether is the most particularly suitable.

[0069] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, methylhydropolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.; and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0071] These silicone oils can also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, and which contain one or more organic functional groups linked via hydrocarbon-based groups in their structure.

[0072] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's *Chemistry and Technology of Silicones* (1968), *Academic Press*. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0073] When they are volatile, silicones are more specifically selected from those having a boiling point of 60°C to 260°C, and even more specifically selected from:

[0074] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, produced by UnionCarbide under the name Volatile. 7207 or by Rhodia in name Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by 70045V2, produced by Union Carbide under the name Volatile 7158. By Rhodia (using the name) Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by 70045V5, and dodecylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Also mentioned are cyclic copolymers (such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane types), such as Silicone sold by Union Carbide. FZ 3109 has the following formula:

[0075]

[0076] Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds may also be mentioned, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50), and mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0077] (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a silicon content of less than or equal to 5 × 10⁻⁶ at 25 °C. -6 m 2Linearly volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of / s. One example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, specifically sold by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone was measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

[0078] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more specifically selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, with particular emphasis on polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0079] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following products may be mentioned in a non-restrictive manner:

[0080] - Series 47 and 70047 sold by Rhodia oil or Oil, for example, oil 70047V500000;

[0081] - Sold by the company Rhodia Series of oils;

[0082] - Oils from Dow Corning's 200 series, such as those with a viscosity of 60000 mm. 2 DC200 / s;

[0083] -From General Electric Oils and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0084] Also mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known by the name polydimethylsiloxane alcohol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oil from the company Rhodia.

[0085] Among aryl-containing silicones are polydiarylsiloxanes, particularly polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

[0086] - From Rhodia's 70641 series Oil;

[0087] -From Rhodia 70633 and 763 series oils;

[0088] - Oil from Dow Corning, Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;

[0089] - Silicones from Bayer's PK series, such as product PK20;

[0090] - Certain oils from General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF1265.

[0091] Organically modified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyoxyethylene groups and / or polyoxypropylene groups. This leads to references to silicone KF-6017 from Shin-Etsu and oils from Union Carbide. L722 and L77.

[0092] Hydrocarbon oils can be selected from:

[0093] -Straight or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and isodecane; and

[0094] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutylene. And squalane.

[0095] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0096] As an example, the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing 8-20 carbon atoms, preferably 10-16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, and triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, having C8-C64 carbon atoms. 12 Alkyl-based ether hydrocarbon oils such as dioctyl ether, optionally polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups such as dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Preferably, the oil is selected from isododecane, octanoic acid / decanoic acid triglyceride, dioctyl ether, polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount of about 80% to about 98.5% by weight, preferably about 85% to about 97.5% by weight, or about 88% to about 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] surfactant combination

[0100] The compositions of the present invention comprise a surfactant combination consisting of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant. Preferably, the surfactant combination consists of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant, or at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant.

[0101] Through a specific combination of surfactants, the dispersed aqueous phase contains a relatively high amount of water, sufficient to carry an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients.

[0102] In fact, the surfactant combination of the present invention achieves a synergistic effect. In this context, the term "synergistic effect" means that the amount of water contained in the dispersed aqueous phase affected by the surfactant combination of the present invention is greater than the sum of the amounts of water contained in the dispersed aqueous phase affected by each individual surfactant contained in the surfactant combination.

[0103] To date, there have been few applications of reverse micelle technology to obtain oily systems or oil phases with the following dispersed aqueous phase containing a certain amount of water capable of carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers. If used, previous oily systems or oil phases employed one or more nonionic surfactants to form reverse micelles, rather than the surfactant combination of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant of the present invention.

[0104] As described above, a synergistic effect is achieved by adding an ionic surfactant. Therefore, even a very small amount of the ionic surfactant, such as less than 0.2% by weight relative to the total composition, can significantly improve the effect of a system containing only one or more nonionic surfactants. In other words, compared to a system containing only one or more nonionic surfactants, the amount of water in the dispersed aqueous phase and thus the amount of hydrophilic active ingredient is significantly increased; for example, it is possible to achieve a dispersed aqueous phase containing about 0.1% by weight or more of the hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0105] Meanwhile, by adding a small amount of ionic surfactant as described above, and a relatively small amount of one or more nonionic surfactants, for example, at least about 1.5% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants relative to the total amount of the composition, the composition of the present invention (containing a certain amount of water capable of carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredient) exhibits and maintains a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time.

[0106] Advantageously, the surfactant combination is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, or about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Ionic surfactants

[0108] In this context, the term "ionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that has at least one anion or cation in its molecule, and non-limiting examples that may be mentioned are anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.

[0109] The ionic surfactants according to the invention are preferably selected from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and combinations thereof. In one example, the anionic surfactant and the cationic surfactant are not included simultaneously in the composition of the invention, and even if they are included simultaneously, the amount of one is significantly lower or higher than the other to avoid undesirable interactions.

[0110] Furthermore, the ionic surfactants according to the present invention are preferably lipophilic.

[0111] As an anionic surfactant, one can mention surfactants with at least one C6-C. 22 Alkyl chains, such as one or two C6-C 22 Alkyl chain, preferably with two C6-C atoms. 22 Anionic surfactants with alkyl chains. For example, anionic surfactants are selected from alkyl sulfosuccinate salts, especially dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts, wherein the alkyl group has 6-22 carbon atoms, preferably 6-12 carbon atoms. Different or the same alkyl group may be present in a dialkyl sulfosuccinate salt molecule, preferably the same. The alkyl group can be straight-chain, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

[0112] As the counter ion for the sulfonic acid group, alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations, or ammonium ions, especially sodium, can be used. Preferably, the dialkyl sulfosuccinate salt is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts, wherein each alkyl group has 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and the counter ion for the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.

[0113] Non-limiting examples of alkyl sulfosuccinate salts include sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, sodium didecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, and sodium dicocoyl sulfosuccinate. (sulfosuccinate), sodium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, diethylhexyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dinonyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, diisononyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dioctyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, diheptyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dihexyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, ammonium sulfosuccinate ester, didecyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, diundecyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dilauryl ammonium sulfosuccinate, dicocoyl ammonium sulfosuccinate, ditridecyl ammonium sulfosuccinate Ammonium dipropylheptayl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, potassium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, potassium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, potassium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, potassium didecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, potassium dicocoyl sulfosuccinate, potassium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dipropylheptayl sulfosuccinate, and potassium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate.

[0114] Other non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include 1,3-dioctylglycerol ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, 1,3-decylglycerol ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, 1,3-di(dodecyl)glycerol ether hydroxypropyl sulfonate, sodium distearate phosphate, sodium dioleoyl phosphate, 1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphate (sodium salt), sodium bis(lauramide-glutamine)lysine, and sodium ethylene bis(N-dodecanoyl-aspartate), etc.

[0115] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts, wherein each alkyl group has 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, and the two alkyl groups are identical. In one example, the anionic surfactant is sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate.

[0116] As cationic surfactants, aliphatic quaternary ammonium compounds can be mentioned, and preferably have at least one C6-C. 22 Alkyl chains, such as one, two, or three C6-C chains.22 Alkyl chains, preferably two C6-C chains. 22 Aliphatic quaternary ammonium compounds with alkyl chains. These compounds have two or three C6-C bonds. 22 A molecule of an alkyl-chain aliphatic quaternary ammonium compound may contain different or the same alkyl groups, preferably the same. The alkyl groups can be straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, with straight-chain and saturated alkyl groups being preferred. As an example, cationic surfactants are selected from alkyltrimethylammonium, dialkyldimethylammonium, trialkylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, wherein each alkyl group contains 6-22 carbon atoms, preferably 12-22 carbon atoms.

[0117] The anion of the quaternary ammonium compound can be a common ion, such as a halide ion, including chloride and bromide ions, ethyl sulfate, methyl sulfate, acetate, lactate, nitrate, phosphate, toluenesulfonate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the anion of the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from chloride, methyl sulfate, and bromide ions, and especially chloride ions.

[0118] Non-limiting examples of aliphatic quaternary ammonium compounds include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearylmethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethyl methyl sulfate, behenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, aracidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyltrimethylammonium bromide, oleyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethyl di(dodecyl)ammonium bromide, dibehenyldimethylammonium chloride, dioleyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylethyldimethylammonium bromide, stearyloctyldimethylammonium methyl sulfate, 1,2-dioleoyl-3-trimethylammonium-propane (chloride salt), and mixtures thereof.

[0119] Preferably, the cationic surfactant is selected from dialkyldimethylammonium halide, wherein each alkyl group contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the two alkyl groups are identical. In one example, the cationic surfactant is diceryldimethylammonium chloride.

[0120] To meet safety standards and without harming the user's health, a relatively small amount of ionic surfactant is required. Advantageously, the ionic surfactant is present in an amount of less than about 5.0% by weight, preferably less than about 3.0% by weight, or less than about 1.5% by weight, and even from about 0.1% by weight to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] Nonionic surfactants

[0122] The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably lipophilic.

[0123] As a nonionic surfactant, one can mention having at least one C6-C. 22 Alkyl chains, such as one, two, or three C6-C chains. 22 The surfactant is an alkyl-chain nonionic surfactant, and preferably the nonionic surfactant also has an HLB value of about 0 to about 10.

[0124] As an example, one could mention esters of polyols and fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably having an epoxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as one or more C6-C... 22 C is preferred 12 -C 22 Glycerides of fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; one or more C6-C 22 C is preferred 12 -C 22 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably having an epoxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; one or more C6-C 22 C is preferred 12 -C 22 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; one or more C6-C 22 C is preferred 12 -C 22 Fatty acid sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkyl sugar) esters and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably having an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing 9 to 100 ethylene oxide groups, such as ethylene glycol dilaurate, ethylene glycol distearate, PEG-3 distearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-12 distearate, PEG-100 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-2 dilaurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dilaurate, ethylene glycol dioleate, PEG-3 dioleate, PEG-4 dioleate, etc.

[0126] As fatty acid glycerides, examples of glycerides of stearate (di- and / or tristearate) such as 1,3-distearate, dioleate, dilaurate, 1,3-dispalmitate and mixtures thereof are particularly noteworthy.

[0127] As a fatty acid, the polyglycerol ester may be derived from 2 to 10 glycerol moieties, preferably 2 to 8 glycerol moieties, or 2 to 6 glycerol moieties, and / or the fatty acid may be C6-C. 22 Fatty acids, with C being preferred. 12 -C 22 fatty acid.

[0128] The polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, or sesqui-esters of straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, palmitic acid, and myristic acid.

[0129] The polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquioctanoate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquidecanoate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquilaurate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquimyristic acid ester containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquipalmitate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquistearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquistearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquiisostearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, tri-, or sesquioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof, wherein the fatty acid contains 2 to 6 glycerol units and / or isostearate derived from C 12 -C 22 Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids are preferred.

[0130] C6-C 22Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their alkoxylated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan trioleate, and fatty acids such as span 65, span 85, and esters of alkoxylated sorbitan containing, for example, 20 to 100 EOs, such as, for example, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or compounds sold by Croda under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60.

[0131] Esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, particularly glucosyl palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate, such as methyl glucose or ethyl glucose palmitate, methyl glucoside fatty esters, and more particularly diesters of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (methyl glucodioleate), mixed esters of methyl glucoside and mixtures of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (methyl glucodioleate / hydroxystearic acid), esters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (methyl glucoisostearate), esters of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (methyl glucolaurate), mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (methyl glucosesquiisostearate), mixtures of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (methyl glucosesquistearate), and especially products sold by Lubrizol under the name Glucate SS, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Examples of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose include, for instance, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular, polyethylene glycol ethers (PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as those sold by Lubrizol under the name GLUCAM E-20DISTEARATE; polyethylene glycol ethers (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as those sold by Lubrizol under the name GLUCAMATE SSE-20; and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Examples of sucrose esters include sucrose dilaurate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose trioleate, and sucrose tristearate.

[0134] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol esters of fatty acids; in particular, polyglycerol monooleate, polyglycerol dioleate or polyglycerol trioleate containing 2-6 glycerol units, polyglycerol monoisostearate, polyglycerol diisostearate or polyglycerol triisostearate containing 2-6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Aqueous phase

[0137] The compositions of the present invention comprise a dispersed aqueous phase.

[0138] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more compounds that are miscible with water or at least partially miscible with water, such as C2-C8 lower polyols or monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0139] The term "polyol" should be understood to refer to any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols such as butanediol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, isopentanediol, octyl ethylene glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerol), and polyethylene glycol.

[0140] The aqueous phase also contains at least one hydrophilic active ingredient as described below.

[0141] The aqueous phase may comprise 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably 0.3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Meanwhile, water is present in an amount of about 0.001% by weight to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, or about 0.1% by weight to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Molar ratio of water to surfactant

[0144] As described above, with the specific surfactant combination of the present invention, the amount of water contained in the dispersed aqueous phase is significantly higher than that from a single surfactant, i.e., a single nonionic surfactant or a single ionic surfactant. Considering the safety standards for the use of surfactants in cosmetic products, the amount of surfactant is limited, especially the amount of ionic surfactants. With the surfactant combination of the present invention, even at relatively low amounts, the desired amount of water capable of carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredient can be obtained in the dispersed aqueous phase, i.e., a relatively high water-to-surfactant molar ratio. Specifically, the water-to-surfactant molar ratio can reach about 3 or higher, and even about 10 or higher. For example, the water-to-surfactant molar ratio can reach up to about 30.

[0145] antimicelle system

[0146] Reverse micelles can be formed in the compositions of the present invention by comprising the aforementioned continuous oil phase, surfactant combination, and dispersed aqueous phase. Reverse micelles give the compositions of the present invention a transparent appearance and are thermodynamically stable over time.

[0147] Furthermore, the reverse micelle system can increase the amount of water in the formulation of a continuous oil phase, and the improved amount of water cores in the reverse micelles can act as cavities to encapsulate the increased amount of hydrophilic active ingredients, as described below.

[0148] Unlike some existing reverse micelles that require co-surfactants, such as fatty alcohols, especially cetearyl alcohol, to maintain or even increase swelling capacity, the reverse micelles of the present invention are driven by the self-assembly of a surfactant composition, and therefore the production of the aqueous oil does not require an energy-consuming process. Thus, the reverse micelles of the present invention do not require additional surfactants as co-surfactants to obtain the desired amount of water contained in the dispersed aqueous phase. In this context, the term "co-surfactant" refers to another surfactant besides the surfactant composition of the present invention, which is used to maintain and even increase the swelling capacity of the reverse micelles.

[0149] hydrophilic active ingredients

[0150] According to the present invention, the dispersed aqueous phase may carry an effective amount of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers relative to the weight of the composition.

[0151] As a hydrophilic active ingredient, water-soluble actives, dyes, and preservatives can be mentioned. In this context, the terms "hydrophilic" and "water-soluble" are used interchangeably.

[0152] For the purposes of this invention, the term "water-soluble active ingredient, dye, and preservative" refers to any natural or synthetic, typically organic compound, that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent. Specifically, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / L, measured at 25°C (to prepare a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored, or colorless solution). This solubility is particularly greater than or equal to 1 g / L.

[0153] As water-soluble active ingredients, proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts, and hydroxy acids may be mentioned.

[0154] Examples that may be mentioned include adipic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, nicotinamide, histidine, tyrosine, lysine, arginine, creatine, taurine, carnitine, permeabilizers such as trimethylamine N-oxide, betaine, trehalose, sucrose, hydrolyzed protein, hyaluronic acid and its salts, including low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and its salts and oligomeric hyaluronic acid and its salts, especially hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, or hyaluronic acid and its salts with a molecular weight range of about 1000D to about 20000D, such as hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of about 5000D.

[0155] As water-soluble dyes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes may be specifically mentioned, including acidic or basic water-soluble dyes, such as FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700) and DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine). Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), Acid Red 52 (CI: 45100), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090), Acid Black 1, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Red 76 and combinations thereof.

[0156] As a non-limiting example of sources of one or more water-soluble colorants that can be used in the context of this invention, those of natural origin may be specifically mentioned, such as extracts of cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, red pepper, henna, caramel, and curcumin.

[0157] Therefore, the water-soluble colorants suitable for use in this invention are, in particular, carmine acid, betaine, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, annatto, arbutin, capsanthin, capsanthin, ranunculus xanthophyll, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rutin, purpuricin, riboflavin, taxone, cane oil, and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] They can also be disodium salts of copper sulfate, ferric sulfate, water-soluble sulfonyl polyester, rhodamine, methylene blue, tartrazine, and fuchsin.

[0159] As water-soluble preservatives, pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, octyl glycol, sodium benzoate, etc. can be specifically mentioned.

[0160] Advantageously, the hydrophilic active ingredient is present in an amount of about 0.01% by weight or higher, preferably about 0.1% by weight or higher, and even up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the hydrophilic active ingredient is present in an amount of 0.01% by weight, 0.05% by weight, 0.1% by weight, 0.15% by weight, 0.2% by weight, 0.25% by weight, 0.3% by weight, or 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0161] Additional ingredients

[0162] The compositions according to the invention may also contain effective amounts of other ingredients, such as fragrances, which are previously known elsewhere in compositions for conditioning and / or dyeing keratin fibers, and are present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, or about 0.3% to about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Preparation and Uses

[0164] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing components of an oil phase, a surfactant, and an aqueous phase as basic components, as well as one or more additional components as described above.

[0165] There are no limitations on the methods and means of mixing the above-described basic and optional ingredients. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above-described basic and optional ingredients to prepare the compositions according to the invention.

[0166] The terms “clarification” and “transparency” are used interchangeably for the purposes of this disclosure.

[0167] The existence of reverse micelles can be confirmed by measuring their size using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0168] The composition can be applied to wet or dry hair.

[0169] According to a second aspect of the invention, it relates to a transparent composition as a hair oil, including leave-in hair oil and wash-out hair oil, preferably a leave-in hair oil, for use in imparting long-term biological benefits to hair fibers.

[0170] According to a third aspect of the invention, it relates to a cosmetic method for conditioning and / or dyeing keratin fibers, the method comprising applying the composition described above to keratin fibers.

[0171] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope. Example

[0172] The main raw materials used, their product names, and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0173] Table 1

[0174]

[0175]

[0176] Embodiments 1-2 of the present invention and comparative embodiments 1-2

[0177] The no-rinse oils according to formulations IE.1-2 and CE.1-2 of the present invention are prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 2 (unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed as a weight percentage of the ingredient relative to the total weight of each no-rinse oil):

[0178] Table 2

[0179]

[0180] Preparation procedure:

[0181] The composition is prepared as follows:

[0182] 1) Polydimethylsiloxane and isododecane are mixed to obtain an oil base;

[0183] 2) Add diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride and polyglycerol-6 dioleate, if present, to each oil phase; and

[0184] 3) Mix the water with each oil phase.

[0185] evaluate:

[0186] The stability of the no-rinse oil was evaluated by visually inspecting it for transparency after two months at 4°C, room temperature (20°C), or 45°C. If the tested no-rinse oil remained transparent for two months at all three temperatures (4°C, room temperature (20°C), and 45°C), it was considered stable; otherwise, it was considered unstable.

[0187] The appearance of the no-rinse oil is observed with the naked eye.

[0188] The results are summarized in Table 3.

[0189] Table 3

[0190]

[0191] As can be seen from Table 2-3, when 0.58 wt% or 2.08 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition is added, each of the no-rinse oils in IE.1-2 exhibits a transparent appearance. Conversely, when 0.6 wt% or 0.14 wt% of water relative to the total weight of the composition is added, phase separation occurs in the no-rinse oils of CE.1-2.

[0192] Furthermore, it can be seen from IE.1 and CE.1-2 that the amount of water contained in the aqueous phase of the IE.1 no-rinse oil is much higher than the sum of the amounts of water contained in the CE.1 no-rinse oil and the CE.2 no-rinse oil, that is, the surfactant combination of the present invention achieves a synergistic effect.

[0193] Furthermore, as can be seen from IE.2, even with very low amounts of nonionic surfactants, such as 1.5% by weight of polyglycerol-6 dioleate, the surfactant combination in IE.2 still allows the corresponding no-rinse oil to remain transparent over time. Therefore, the surfactant combination of the present invention reduces the amount of one or more nonionic surfactants used to maintain the transparent appearance of no-rinse oils. In addition, since the amount of ionic surfactants is also relatively low, the total amount of surfactants used to maintain the transparent appearance of no-rinse oils is correspondingly low.

[0194] Embodiments 3-6 of the present invention

[0195] The no-rinse oils according to formulations IE.3-6 of the present invention are prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 4 (unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed as a weight percentage of the ingredient relative to the total weight of each no-rinse oil):

[0196] Table 4

[0197]

[0198] Preparation procedure:

[0199] The composition is prepared as follows:

[0200] 1) Polydimethylsiloxane and isododecane are mixed to obtain an oil base;

[0201] 2) Add diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride and polyglycerol-6 dioleate to the oil phase; and

[0202] 3) Dissolve arginine, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, or Blue 1 in water to obtain a solution, and then mix each solution with its corresponding oil phase.

[0203] evaluate:

[0204] The stability and appearance of the obtained no-rinse oil were evaluated as described above.

[0205] The results are summarized in Table 5.

[0206] Table 5

[0207] nature IE.3 IE4 IE.5 IE.6 stability Stablize Stablize Stablize Stablize Appearance Uniform, transparent Uniform, transparent Evenly colored Evenly colored

[0208] As can be seen from Tables 4-5, each of the no-rinse oils in IE.3-6 contains 0.1% by weight of hydrophilic active ingredients, namely arginine, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, or Blue 1, in a dispersed aqueous phase, and the surfactant combinations of IE.3-6 enable the corresponding no-rinse oils to remain transparent over time.

[0209] Furthermore, the various types of oils in IE.3-6 achieved a water-to-surfactant molar ratio higher than 10, and the washing oil in IE.5 even achieved a water-to-surfactant molar ratio of 28.3.

[0210] Embodiments 7-8 of the present invention and Comparative Embodiment 3

[0211] The no-rinse oils according to formulations IE.7-8 and comparative formulation CE.3 are prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 6 (unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed as a weight percentage of the ingredient relative to the total weight of each no-rinse oil).

[0212] Table 6

[0213]

[0214] According to the comparative formula CE.3, the no-rinse oil does not contain any ionic surfactants.

[0215] Preparation procedure:

[0216] The composition is prepared as follows:

[0217] 1) Mix polydimethylsiloxane, triglycerides, ether oil, and isododecane to obtain an oil base;

[0218] 2) Add polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, if present, to each oil phase; and

[0219] 3) Mix the water with each oil phase.

[0220] evaluate:

[0221] The stability and appearance of the obtained no-rinse oil were evaluated as described above.

[0222] The results are summarized in Table 7.

[0223] Table 7

[0224] nature IE.7 IE.8 CE.3 stability Stablize Stablize Unstable Appearance Uniform, transparent Uniform, transparent Inhomogeneous, phase separation

[0225] As can be seen from Tables 6-7, the surfactant combination of CE.3, without ionic surfactants, resulted in phase separation in the corresponding no-rinse oils. Conversely, even with the addition of very small amounts of the ionic surfactants of this invention, the surfactant combinations of IE.7-8 resulted in the corresponding no-rinse oils remaining transparent over time.

[0226] Embodiments 9-12 of the present invention

[0227] The rinse-free types according to formulations IE.9-12 of the present invention are prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 8 (unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed as a weight percentage of the ingredient relative to the total weight of each rinse-free oil).

[0228] Table 8

[0229]

[0230] Preparation procedure:

[0231] The composition is prepared as follows:

[0232] 1) Mix polydimethylsiloxane, triglycerides, ether oil, and isododecane to obtain an oil base;

[0233] 2) Add polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, and sodium dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate to the oil phase; and

[0234] 3) Dissolve hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate or Blue 1 in water to obtain a solution, and then mix each solution with its corresponding oil phase.

[0235] evaluate:

[0236] The stability and appearance of the obtained no-rinse oil were evaluated as described above.

[0237] The results are summarized in Table 9.

[0238] Table 9

[0239] nature IE.9 IE.10 IE.11 IE.12 stability Stablize Stablize Stablize Stablize Appearance Uniform, transparent Uniform, transparent Evenly colored Evenly colored

[0240] As can be seen from Tables 8-9, each of the IE.9-12 no-rinse oils achieves a hydrophilic active ingredient content exceeding 0.1% by weight, namely hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate or Blue 1 contained in the dispersed aqueous phase, and the surfactant combinations of IE.9-12 enable the corresponding no-rinse oils to maintain transparency over time. Furthermore, each of the IE.9-12 no-rinse oils achieves a water-to-surfactant molar ratio exceeding 3.

[0241] Measurement of reverse micelle size using dynamic light scattering

[0242] The size of the formulated reverse micelles was characterized using a Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) apparatus. DLS experiments measured the hydrodynamic radius of the reverse micelles and included solvation. Pure isododecane was considered a representative single oil for studying the reverse micelle system using DLS because the viscosity of the oil base was higher than the maximum value recommended by Brookhaven. The main experimental parameters set for the DLS experiments are listed in Table 10.

[0243] Table 10. Summary of key parameters used for DLS characterization

[0244]

[0245]

[0246] In Table 11 below, samples 1-4 correspond to IE.1-2 and 7-8, respectively, but the oil-based materials are simplified using a single isododecane. All results for average effective diameter and average polydispersity were obtained from at least three measurements.

[0247] Samples 1-4 were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 11 (unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed as a weight percentage of the ingredient relative to the total weight of each sample):

[0248] Table 11

[0249]

[0250] The polydispersity index (PDI) is defined as a dimensionless measure of the width of a size distribution calculated from cumulative analysis. This value should be between 0 and 1. If the value is higher than 1, the distribution is too dispersed, and therefore the sample may not be suitable for measurement by DLS.

[0251] From Table 11 above, along with Figure 1-4 It can be seen that each of samples 1-4 achieved an average polydispersity of less than 1. Therefore, it is demonstrated that reverse micelles with average effective diameters as shown in Table 11 were indeed formed and that they were stable over time in the no-wash oils of IE.1-2 and 7-8.

[0252] By forming stable reverse micelles in the no-rinse oil of the present invention, the no-rinse oil maintains a transparent appearance over time, and an effective amount (e.g., 0.1% by weight or even higher relative to the total weight of the composition) of hydrophilic active ingredients can be contained in the aqueous phase of the dispersion of the transparent composition of the present invention.

Claims

1. A transparent composition for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers, comprising: a) A continuous oil phase, comprising at least one oil. b) A surfactant combination consisting of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant. c) A dispersed aqueous phase containing a certain amount of water, said amount of water being capable of carrying an effective amount of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers. Both nonionic and ionic surfactants are lipophilic, and The transparent composition therein does not contain any co-surfactants. The surfactant combination described herein consists of at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant, or at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant. The nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol mono-, di-, or trioleate esters containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono-, di-, or triisostearate esters containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof. The anionic surfactant is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts, and the cationic surfactant is selected from dialkyldimethylammonium chloride. The combination of said surfactants is present in an amount of 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and The amount of the at least one ionic surfactant is from 0.1% to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the keratin fibers are hair.

3. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein water in the dispersed aqueous phase carries 0.01% by weight or more of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein water in the dispersed aqueous phase carries up to 0.5% by weight of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning and / or staining keratin fibers relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts with two identical alkyl groups, and the cationic surfactant is selected from dialkyldimethylammonium chloride having two identical alkyl groups.

6. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and the cationic surfactant is diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

7. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant further has an HLB value of 0-10.

8. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-2-triisostearate, polyglycerol-2-oleate, and mixtures thereof.

9. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant combination comprises: Diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride and polyglycerol-6 dioleate Diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, polyglycerol-2 oleate, and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate. Diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride and polyglycerol-2 oleate, Diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and polyglycerol-2 oleate, Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and polyglycerol-6 dioleate, Diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, and polyglycerol-2 oleate, Diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, and polyglycerol-2 oleate. Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate. Diceryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-2 oleate and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, or Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate.

10. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of water to surfactant can be 3 or higher.

11. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of water to surfactant can reach up to 30.

12. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the water is present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the water is present in an amount of 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing 8 to 20 atoms, triglycerides, optionally polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, ether oils, and mixtures thereof.

15. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from polydimethylsiloxane, isododecane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, dioctyl ether, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.

16. The transparent composition of claim 1, wherein the oil is present in an amount of 80% to 98.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The transparent composition of claim 1, wherein the oil is present in an amount of 88% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient comprises a hydrophilic active agent, a dye, and a preservative.

19. The transparent composition according to claim 18, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient is selected from proteins or protein hydrolysates, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars, water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts and hydroxy acids, acidic or basic hydrophilic dyes, and mixtures thereof.

20. The transparent composition of claim 19, wherein the protein hydrolysate comprises amino acids.

21. The transparent composition according to claim 18, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient is selected from arginine; hyaluronic acid and its salts with a molecular weight of 1000D to 20000D; betaine; trehalose; and mixtures thereof.

22. The transparent composition according to claim 21, wherein the hyaluronic acid and its salt with a molecular weight in the range of 1000D to 20000D are hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate.

23. The transparent composition according to claim 21, wherein the hyaluronic acid and its salt with a molecular weight of 1000D to 20000D are hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 5000D.

24. Use of the transparent composition according to any one of claims 1-23 as a non-therapeutic hair oil, said hair oil comprising leave-in hair oil and wash-out hair oil.

25. Use of the transparent composition of any one of claims 1-23 as a non-therapeutic hair oil, said hair oil comprising leave-in hair oil.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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