A cosmetic composition comprising a combination of two specific couplers and N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and / or its salts
The lack of color selectivity, accumulation and tolerance of existing hair dyes is solved by using compositions of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, and a strong and lasting dyeing effect is achieved, especially maintaining the color under the influence of washing, light and sweat.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202180081583.3
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2020-12-17
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-08
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dyes have shortcomings in color selectivity, color accumulation, durability and tolerance, especially under the influence of washing, light and sweat.
Cosmetic compositions containing 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid are used in keratin fiber dyeing, and the dyeing effect is improved by specific proportions and composition design.
Strong, durable, slightly selective dyeing on keratin fibers is achieved, with good color accumulation, and coloring performance is maintained under the erosion of external factors.
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Abstract
Description
Technical field
[0001] The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising 6 - hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxyethyl - 3,4 - methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III) and N,N - dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and / or its salts.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers such as hair, in which the said composition as previously described is applied to the said fibers.
[0003] Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair. Background art
[0004] It is known practice to dye keratin fibers and especially human hair with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, such as oxidation - developing bases, especially ortho - phenylenediamine or para - phenylenediamine, ortho - aminophenol or para - aminophenol, and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation - developing bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidation products, are capable of producing colored compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
[0005] It is also known that the hues obtained with these oxidation - developing bases can be modified by combining these oxidation - developing bases with couplers or color modifiers (the latter being especially selected from aromatic m - diaminobenzenes, m - aminophenols, m - diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds).
[0006] The various molecules used as oxidation - developing bases and couplers allow a wide range of colors to be obtained.
[0007] "Permanent" dyeing is characterized by the use of oxidation dye precursors (bases and / or couplers) in the presence of an oxidizing compound. In order to be considered an effective dyeing, the latter needs to meet certain criteria. It must make it possible to obtain, between the tips and the roots of the same lock of hair, a chromaticity (also called selectivity) at the desired intensity and with as small a coloring difference as possible.
[0008] The dye must also be tolerant over time and must not degrade in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, bad weather, friction and sweat.
[0009] However, the dyeing results obtained are not always very satisfactory, especially in terms of selectivity, color build - up (especially to ensure good coverage of the hair, more particularly of white hair), chromaticity, intensity and / or persistence (especially with respect to successive shampooing operations), or in terms of tolerance to light or sweat.
[0010] Thus, there is indeed a need to develop compositions that can dye keratin fibers in a strong, long-lasting, slightly selective and colored manner, with good color build-up, and that can provide a coloring that is tolerant to the various erosive factors to which the fibers may be subjected, such as bad weather, washing and sweating, and that can also give good dyeing properties even after storage for some time. Summary of the Invention
[0011] One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0012] - at least one oxidation coupler selected from one of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts:
[0013]
[0014] - at least one oxidation coupler selected from one of hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts:
[0015]
[0016] - one or more compounds selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0017] The composition according to the invention comprising a specific combination of two oxidation couplers and at least one specific acid makes it possible to achieve the above objectives, particularly in terms of the intensity, color build-up and selectivity of keratin fiber dyeing, and in terms of color fastness (particularly with respect to shampooing operations).
[0018] The present invention also relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in which the composition as described above is applied to said fibers.
[0019] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0020] The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents (preferably hydrogen peroxide) as described below.
[0021] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become clearer upon reading the following description and examples.
[0022] In the following text, and unless otherwise specified, the limits of a range of values are included in the range, particularly in the expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from... to...".
[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0024] The composition according to the invention comprises at least two specific oxidation couplers.
[0025] 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II)
[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises an oxidation coupler selected from one of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts:
[0027]
[0028] Preferably, the oxidation coupler selected from one of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts is present in a content in the weight range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even still better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, based on the composition.
[0029] Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III)
[0030] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one oxidation coupler selected from one of hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts:
[0031]
[0032] Preferably, the oxidation coupler selected from one of hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts is present in a total content in the weight range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even still better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0033] Advantageously, an oxidation color former selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), an addition salt thereof, a solvate thereof and / or a solvate of a salt thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and an oxidation color former selected from 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), an addition salt thereof, a solvate thereof and / or a solvate of a salt thereof is present in a total amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] Advantageously, the total amount of oxidation color formers selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), an addition salt thereof, a solvate thereof and / or a solvate of a salt thereof and 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), an addition salt thereof, a solvate thereof and / or a solvate of a salt thereof ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0035] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the content of the oxidation color former selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) and the content of the oxidation color formers selected from 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.4 and 5, more preferably between 0.5 and 2.
[0036] Additional oxidation color former
[0037] The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more oxidation color formers different from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0038] These oxidation color formers are referred to herein as additional oxidation color formers.
[0039] By way of example, according to the present invention, additional oxidation couplers may be selected from m-phenylenediamine, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, naphthalene-based couplers, and heterocyclic couplers, as well as their corresponding addition salts, their solvates, and / or solvates of their salts.
[0040] Examples that may be mentioned are 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxydihydroindole, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b][1,2,4]triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c][1,2,4]triazole, and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-([3-amino-4-methoxyphenyl]amino)ethanol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, and / or solvates of salts thereof.
[0041] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the additional oxidation couplers are selected from m-phenylenediamine, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, as well as their corresponding addition salts, their solvates, and / or solvates of their salts; even more preferably 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 3-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, α-naphthol, 2-([3-amino-4-methoxyphenyl]amino)ethanol, and their addition salts, their solvates, and / or solvates of their salts.
[0042] In a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not contain oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and solvates of their salts.
[0043] Preferably, when present, the total content of additional oxidation color formers different from the color formers of formula (II) and (III), their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even still better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0044] Preferably, the total content of oxidation color formers, their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even still better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0045] N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts
[0046] The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more compounds selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] The salts are especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts and substituted ammonium salts.
[0048] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts, and especially sodium or potassium salts, are preferred.
[0049] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA). For example, Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel will be used.
[0050] Preferably, the total content of the compounds selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.075% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.075% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0052] Oxidative color-developing base
[0053] The composition according to the invention may also optionally contain one or more oxidative color-developing bases.
[0054] Preferably, the composition according to the invention additionally contains one or more oxidative dyes.
[0055] By way of example, the oxidative color-developing bases are selected from p-phenylenediamine, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, heterocyclic color-developing bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0056] Among p-phenylenediamines, mention may be made, for example, of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-p-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts with acids.
[0057] Among the above-mentioned p-phenylenediamines, p-phenylenediamine, p-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-p-phenylenediamine, as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts are particularly preferred.
[0058] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, mention may be made, for example, of N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0059] Among the p-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0060] Among the o-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0061] Among the heterocyclic chromogenic bases, mention may be made, for example, of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0062] Among pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0063] Other pyridine oxidation chromogenic bases useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation chromogenic bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0064] More particularly, the oxidation chromogenic bases useful in the present invention are selected from 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and are preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by:
[0065] a) (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino, wherein the alkyl may be substituted by at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;
[0066] b) Optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C6) alkyl groups, such as a di(C1-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or
[0067] c) (C1-C6) alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, such as β-hydroxyalkoxy, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0068] Pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms (when a tautomeric equilibrium exists).
[0069] Among pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts. 4,5-Diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0070] Preference will be given to using 4,5-diaminopyrazole, and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or the corresponding salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0071] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolinones, and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.
[0072] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or its corresponding salts, solvates and / or solvates of its salts will preferably be used.
[0073] As the heterocyclic chromogenic base, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and / or their corresponding salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts will preferably be used.
[0074] Preferably, the oxidation coloring base is selected from p-phenylenediamine, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, and heterocyclic coloring bases, as well as corresponding addition salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] Preferably, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, the oxidation coloring base is present in a total content in a weight range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, based on the composition.
[0076] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation coloring bases, preferably selected from 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] According to a preferred embodiment, the oxidation coloring base selected from 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof is present in a total content in a weight range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, based on the composition.
[0078] In a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain an oxidation coloring base selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0079] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the oxidation coloring base and the total content of an oxidation coupler selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10, and still better between 0.5 and 5.
[0080] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of the oxidation coloring base and the total content of the coupler is between 0.1 and 10, and still better between 0.5 and 5.
[0081] Fatty substances
[0082] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances.
[0083] Useful fatty substances according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance shall be understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa). A solid fatty substance shall be understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa).
[0084] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name "MDSC 2920". In the present patent application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa).
[0085] The term "fatty substance" shall be understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight) at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa). The fatty substance carries in its structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms and / or at least two sequences of siloxane groups. Additionally, the fatty substance is generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0086] Advantageously, the fatty substances useful in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0087] Preferably, the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-silicones.
[0088] The term "non-siloxane fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance that does not contain any Si-O bonds, and the term "siloxane fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance that contains at least one Si-O bond.
[0089] More particularly, the liquid fatty substances according to the invention are selected from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Looking back, the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 40 and more preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which group is optionally particularly substituted by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0091] Regarding the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, these may be straight-chain, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably selected from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins (such as isocetane or isodecane), and mixtures thereof.
[0092] The liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be straight-chain or branched, and are of inorganic or synthetic origin, and are preferably selected from liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as ), and mixtures thereof.
[0093] The hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is fully hydrogenated squalene.
[0094] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably selected from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois of France or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] Regarding the fluorinated oils, they may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold by BNFL Fluorochemicals under the names PC1 and PC3; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes, such as those sold by 3M under the names PF and PF Dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane sold, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine, sold by 3M under the name PF sold.
[0096] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the present invention are more particularly selected from straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched-chain alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Regarding the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1 to C26 or branched-chain C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1 to C26 or branched-chain C3 to C26 aliphatic monools or polyols, the total carbon number of these esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0098] Preferably, for the esters of monools, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched-chain.
[0099] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of docosanoic acid dihydroabietyl ester; docosanoic acid octyldodecyl ester; docosanoic acid isocetyl ester; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monools, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates (such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate), isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.
[0101] Still in the context of this variant, esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0102] Particularly mention may be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetranonanoate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol didecanoate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] As fatty esters, the composition may also comprise sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. In retrospect, the term "sugar" is intended to mean an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0104] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0105] The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described previously and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30, and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0106] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, particularly such as mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate.
[0108] More particularly, mono-esters and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Examples that may be mentioned are products sold by Amerchol under the name DO, which is methylglucose dioleate.
[0110] Preferably, liquid esters of monocarboxylic acids and monohydric alcohols will be used.
[0111] The silicone oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups and preferably have, at 25 °C, from 5×10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s, and preferably from 1×10 -5 to 1 m 2 / s viscosity.
[0112] Preferably, the silicone oils are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.
[0113] These silicone oils can also be organically modified. The organically modified silicone oils that can be used according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and containing in their structure one or more organic functional groups attached via hydrocarbon-based groups (e.g. selected from amino groups and alkoxy groups).
[0114] Organic polysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0115] When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0116] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, in particular those sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile 7207 or by Rhodia under the name The octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under 70045V2, the Volatile 7158 sold by Union Carbide Corporation, and the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under 70045V5 by Rhodia, as well as their mixtures. and the 7158 sold by Union Carbide Corporation and the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under 70045V5 by Rhodia, as well as their mixtures.
[0117] Mention may also be made of cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide Corporation. FZ 3109.
[0118] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimetylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexamethyltrisiloxanyl)neopentane;
[0119] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity at 25 °C less than or equal to 5×10 -6 m 2 / s. An example is in particular the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. The silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics" by Todd & Byers published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 91, January 76, pages 27 - 32.
[0120] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.
[0121] These silicone oils are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. At 25 °C, the viscosity of these silicones is measured according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0122] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, by way of non-limiting example, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
[0123] - the oils of the 47 and 70047 series sold by Rhodia or oils, such as oil 70047V500000;
[0124] - the series of oils sold by Rhodia;
[0125] - Oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s;
[0126] - Oils from General Electric, and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of General Electric.
[0127] Also mentionable are polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name polydimethylsiloxanol (CTFA), such as the oils from the 48 series of Rhodia.
[0128] The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicones as previously defined and containing in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via hydrocarbon groups.
[0129] Regarding liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group, they can in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the previously mentioned organic functional groups.
[0130] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity in the range from 1×10 -5 to 5×10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 °C.
[0131] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mentionable examples include products sold under the following names:
[0132] - Oils from the 70 641 series of Rhodia ;
[0133] - Oils from the 70 633 and 763 series of Rhodia;
[0134] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
[0135] - Silicones from the PK series of Bayer, such as product PK20;
[0136] - Silicones from the PN and PH series of Bayer, such as products PN1000 and PH1000;
[0137] - Certain oils from the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0138] Among the organically modified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes, comprising:
[0139] - Substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold by Genesee under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100, or the products sold by Dow Corning under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939. Substituted amino groups are especially C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
[0140] - Alkoxy groups,
[0141] - Hydroxy groups.
[0142] The solid fat substance according to the invention preferably has a viscosity greater than 2 Pa·s measured at 25 °C and a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
[0143] Preferably, the solid fat substance is selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0144] The term "fatty acid" is intended to mean long-chain carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols of the present invention contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyethylenated nor glycerolated.
[0145] Solid fatty acids useful in the present invention are especially selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acids are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid.
[0147] The term "fatty alcohol" is intended to mean long-chain aliphatic alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and containing at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyethylenated nor glycerolated.
[0148] The solid fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated, and can be straight-chain or branched-chain, and contains from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol has the structure R-OH, where R represents a straight-chain alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and the alkyl group contains from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30, more preferably from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0149] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched-chain, preferably straight-chain and saturated (mono) alcohols, which contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0150] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be selected from the following, either individually or in the form of a mixture: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); cerotinyl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); melissyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0151] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0152] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
[0153] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of straight-chain or branched-chain saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and esters of straight-chain or branched-chain saturated monoalcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acid can be optionally hydroxylated and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.
[0154] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxylated, trihydroxylated, tetrahydroxylated or pentahydroxylated alcohols.
[0155] Octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl nonanoate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned in particular.
[0156] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0157] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound which is solid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting point greater than about 40 °C, which melting point can range up to 200 °C, and has an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of these wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving a substantially opaque, turbid appearance to the composition containing them. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with the oil and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but upon returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).
[0158] In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may be selected from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] In particular, hydrocarbon-based waxes may be mentioned, such as beeswax (especially of biological origin), lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, fine-stemmed needlegrass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, zeolite; polyethylene wax, waxes and wax copolymers prepared by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also esters thereof.
[0160] C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW, may also be mentioned.
[0161] MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene may also be mentioned.
[0162] It is also possible to mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing a straight-chain or branched C8-C32 fatty chain. Among these waxes, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, especially products manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the trademark , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, especially products sold by Heterene under the name Hest .
[0163] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold by Sophim under the name Phytowax Castor and .
[0164] As waxes, it is also possible to use C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are especially sold by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K and Kester Wax K80 .
[0165] It is also possible to use microcrystalline waxes in the compositions of the present invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microcrystalline waxes, such as products sold by Micro Powders under the name MicroCare ; synthetic wax microcrystalline waxes, such as products sold by Micro Powders under the name MicroEase ; microcrystalline waxes composed of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as products sold by Micro Powders under the name Micro Care and ; microcrystalline waxes composed of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as products sold by Micro Powders under the name Micro Care ; polyethylene microcrystalline waxes, such as products sold by Micro Powders under the name Micropoly and ; and polytetrafluoroethylene microcrystalline waxes, such as products sold by Micro Powders under the name Microslip and 519 .
[0166] The wax is preferably selected from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, liquid petrolatum, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, carnauba wax, brazil wax, candelilla wax, alfalfa wax or absolute waxes of flowers, such as blackcurrant flower absolute wax sold by Bertin company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline wax; and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Cerebrosides or cerebroside analogues such as glycoceramide that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are known; in particular, according to the Dawning classification, cerebrosides of classes I, II, III and V can be mentioned.
[0168] The cerebroside or its analogue that can be used preferably corresponds to the following formula: R 3 CH(OH)CH(CH2OR 2 )(NHCOR 1 ), where:
[0169] R 1 denotes a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid, which group may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position or a hydroxyl group in the Ω position, and the hydroxyl group is esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0170] R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer in the range from 1 to 4 and m is an integer in the range from 1 to 8;
[0171] R 3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group in the α position, which group may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it should be understood that in the case of natural cerebrosides or glycoceramides, R 3 may also denote a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, and the hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.
[0172] More particularly preferred cerebrosides are compounds in which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C16-C22 fatty acid; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, and R 3 denotes a saturated straight-chain C15 group.
[0173] Preferably, a cerebroside is used in which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C14-C30 fatty acid; R 2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R 3 represents -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.
[0174] Compounds can also be used in which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C12-C22 fatty acid; R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl, and R 3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably -CH=CH-(CH2) 12 -CH3 group.
[0175] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoylsphingosine; 2-N-palmitamidohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0176] The solid fat substance is preferably selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat substance, preferably selected from liquid hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Preferably, the liquid fat substance is selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular liquid petrolatum, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0179] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fat substance, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols.
[0180] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat substance and at least one solid fat substance, preferably at least one liquid fatty alcohol and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
[0181] When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fat substances, the total content of the fat substances preferably ranges from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 8% to 70% by weight, and still more preferably from 10% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0182] In a particular embodiment, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fat substances, the total content of the fat substances preferably ranges from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 70% by weight, and still more preferably from 40% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0183] In another particular embodiment, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fat substances, the total content of the liquid fat substances preferably ranges from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 35% to 70% by weight, and still more preferably from 40% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] Surfactant
[0185] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These may preferably be selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.
[0186] The term "anionic surfactant" should be understood to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the following groups: CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.
[0187] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamide ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polysaccharide-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactates, salts of D-galacturonic acid, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamide ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise indicated) generally contain from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denotes a phenyl group.
[0188] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units.
[0189] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polysaccharide-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkylpolyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0190] When the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they can be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts and preferably sodium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts especially amino alcohol salts, or alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).
[0191] Examples of amino alcohol salts that can be particularly mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts, and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0192] Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and especially sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
[0193] The optionally present anionic surfactant can be a mild anionic surfactant, i.e. an anionic surfactant that does not contain a sulfate functional group.
[0194] Regarding mild anionic surfactants, the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof, can be particularly mentioned: polyoxyethylated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyethylated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyethylated alkylamide ether carboxylic acids, especially those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galacturonates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylates.
[0195] Very particularly, polyoxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO), for example sold by Kao under the name Akypo RLM 45CA.
[0196] Among the above-mentioned anionic surfactants, sulfonated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acyl glutamates are preferably used, and alkyl sulfates are more preferably used.
[0197] Nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are particularly described, for example, on pages 116 - 178 of "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London) in 1991.
[0198] Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as mixtures:
[0199] - Oxylated (C8 - C24) alkyl phenols;
[0200] - Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain, oxylated or glycerolated C8 - C40 alcohols, preferably containing one or two fatty chains;
[0201] - Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain, oxylated C8 to C30 fatty acid amides;
[0202] - Esters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C8 to C30 acids and polyethylene glycol;
[0203] - Preferably, oxethylated esters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C8 to C30 acids and sorbitol;
[0204] - Esters of fatty acids and sucrose;
[0205] - C8 - C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
[0206] - Oxethylated C8 - C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
[0207] -(C8 - C30) alkyl (poly) glucosides and (C8 - C30) alkenyl (poly) glucosides, which are optionally oxylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and contain 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8 - C30) alkyl (poly) glucoside esters;
[0208] - Saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;
[0209] Condensates of -ethyleneoxy and / or -propyleneoxy;
[0210] -N-(C8-C30)alkylglucosamines and N-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucosamine derivatives;
[0211] -Oxides of amine.
[0212] They are especially selected from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and carrying at least one fatty chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethyleneoxy or propyleneoxy groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 30.
[0213] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides (preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethyleneoxy units), polyglycerolized fatty amides (containing on average from 1 to 5 and especially from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups), ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan (containing from 1 to 30 ethyleneoxy units), fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucosamine derivatives, oxides of amine such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxide or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxide.
[0214] C8-C30, preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) may be selected from:
[0215] Sorbitan octanoate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquioctanoate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; sorbitan tristearate.
[0216] Polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing especially from 2 ethyleneoxy to 20 mol of oxyethylene (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) may be selected from polyoxyethylenated esters containing especially from 2 to 30 mol of sorbitan and C12-C18 fatty acids (especially lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid), such as:
[0217] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (polysorbate - 21),
[0218] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (polysorbate - 20),
[0219] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (polysorbate - 40),
[0220] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (polysorbate - 60),
[0221] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (polysorbate - 61),
[0222] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (polysorbate - 80),
[0223] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (polysorbate - 81),
[0224] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (polysorbate - 65),
[0225] - Polyoxyethylated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (polysorbate - 85).
[0226] Particularly, polyoxyethylated C8 - C30 (preferably C12 - C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide groups can be selected from polyoxyethylated esters containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide groups (such as C12 - C18 fatty acids, especially lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid or stearic acid), and sorbitan, such as:
[0227] - Ester of sorbitan and coconut fatty acid polyoxyethylated with 20 EO (PEG - 20 sorbitan coconut fatty acid ester);
[0228] - Polyoxyethylated esters of sorbitan and isostearic acid (especially containing from 2 to 20 EO) (such as PEG - 2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG - 5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG - 20 sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold by Nikko Co., Ltd. under the name Nikkol TI 10V),
[0229] - Polyoxyethylated esters of sorbitan and lauric acid (especially containing from 2 to 20 EO) (such as PEG-10 sorbitan laurate),
[0230] - Polyoxyethylated esters of sorbitan and oleic acid containing 10 ethylene oxide groups (especially containing from 2 to 20 EO) (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate),
[0231] - Polyoxyethylated esters of sorbitan and stearic acid (especially containing from 3 to 20 EO) (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate).
[0232] The nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols (containing from 1 to 200 ethyleneoxy groups), ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan (having from 1 to 30 ethyleneoxy units), (C6-C24 alkyl) polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0233] The cationic surfactant that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is generally selected from optionally polyoxyethylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0234] These aliphatic amines generally contain at least one chain based on C8-C30 hydrocarbons. Among the aliphatic amines that can be used according to the present invention, examples that can be mentioned include stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.
[0235] As quaternary ammonium salts, in particular, for example:
[0236] - Those corresponding to the following general formula (X):
[0237]
[0238] wherein the groups R8 to R 11 , which may be the same or different, represent straight-chain or branched aliphatic groups containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or aromatic groups such as aryl or alkylaryl, and at least one of these groups R8 to R 11 contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen.
[0239] The aliphatic group is selected from, for example, C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamidino(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of: halide ion, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate, or (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonate.
[0240] Among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (X), tetraalkylammonium chlorides are first preferred, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chloride or alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, wherein the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or benzyl dimethyl stearylammonium chloride, or alternatively, second preferred is distearoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium sulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium sulfate, or distearoylethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium sulfate, or alternatively, finally preferred is palmamido propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or stearamido propyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold by Van Dyk under the name 70;
[0241] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of the following formula (XI):
[0242]
[0243] wherein R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms (e.g., derived from tallow fatty acids), R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R 15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of: halide ion, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate, or (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonate.
[0244] Preferably, R 12 and R 13 represent a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms (e.g., alkenyl or alkyl groups derived from tallow fatty acids), R 14 represents methyl and R 15 represents a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, by Rewo under the name of W 75;
[0245] - A quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, especially of the following formula (XII):
[0246]
[0247] wherein R 16 represents an alkyl group containing from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which alkyl group is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is selected from hydrogen, or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or the group -(CH2)3-N+(R 16a )(R 17a )(R 18a ); R 16a , R 17a , R 18a , R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X - is an anion selected from the group consisting of: halide ion, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate, especially methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
[0248] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) sold by Finetex and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) sold by Finetex;
[0249] - Quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functional groups, such as those of the following formula (XIII):
[0250]
[0251] wherein: R 22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl; R 23 is selected from: the group -C(O)R 26 , a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based group R 27 , a hydrogen atom; R 25 is selected from: the group -C(O)R 28 , a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group R 29 , a hydrogen atom; R 24 , R 26 and R 28, which may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s, and t, which may be the same or different, are integers from 2 to 6; r1 and t1 may be the same or different and are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z (which may be the same or different) are integers from 0 to 10, X - is an organic or inorganic, simple or complex anion, provided that the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R 23 denotes R 27 , and when z is 0, R 25 denotes R 29 .
[0252] The alkyl group R 22 may be linear or branched and more particularly is linear.
[0253] Preferably, R 22 denotes methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dipropylol, and more particularly is methyl or ethyl.
[0254] Advantageously, the sum of x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
[0255] When R 23 is the hydrocarbon-based group R 27 , it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0256] When R 25 is the hydrocarbon-based group R 29 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0257] Advantageously, R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0258] Preferably, x and z may be the same or different and are equal to 0 or 1.
[0259] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0260] Preferably, r, s, and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0261] The anion X -Preferably a halide ion (preferably chloride, bromide or iodide ion), (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with an ammonium bearing an ester functional group can be used.
[0262] The anion X - Even more particularly, it is chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
[0263] In the composition according to the invention, an ammonium salt of formula (XIII) is more particularly used, wherein: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R 23 is selected from: the group -C(O)R 26 , methyl, ethyl or a group based on a C14-C22 hydrocarbon, a hydrogen atom, R 25 is selected from: the group -C(O)R 28 , a hydrogen atom, R 24 , R 26 and R 28 may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups based on C13-C17 hydrocarbons, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0264] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
[0265] Among the compounds of formula (XIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, notably chlorides or methyl sulfates of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.
[0266] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyl diethanolamine or alkyl diisopropanolamine (which may optionally be oxyethylenated) with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. Following this esterification is quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, chloroethylene glycol or chloroglycerol.
[0267] Such compounds are, for example, those sold by Henkel under the name , those sold by Stepan under the name , those sold by CECA under the name or those sold by Rewo-Witco under the name WE 18.
[0268] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-esters, di-esters and tri-ester salts, in which the major weight is the di-ester salt.
[0269] Also usable are ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group as described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
[0270] Also usable is, for example, behenoyl hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sold by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
[0271] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.
[0272] Among the cationic surfactants, cetyl trimethyl ammonium, behenyl trimethyl ammonium and dipalmitylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof are more particularly preferably selected, and more particularly behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and dipalmitylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0273] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0274] More preferably, the surfactant is preferably selected from non-ionic surfactants, and even better from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols (containing from 1 to 200 ethyleneoxy groups), ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan (having from 1 to 30 ethyleneoxy units), (C6-C24 alkyl) polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0275] When the composition contains one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] When the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, the total content of nonionic surfactants in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even still better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] Chelating agent
[0278] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one chelating agent (or complexing agent) different from the above-mentioned N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts.
[0279] The definition of "chelating agent" (or "complexing agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a complex with metal ions. A complex is an inorganic coordination compound in which the compound (chelating agent or complexing agent) coordinates with the metal ion, i.e., it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (forming a ring containing the metal ion).
[0280] Chelating agents (or complexing agents) generally contain at least two electron-donating atoms capable of forming bonds with metal ions.
[0281] Within the scope of the present invention, chelating agents may be selected from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and their derivatives.
[0282] Salts are especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts and substituted ammonium salts.
[0283] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of carboxylic acids: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate (such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL), ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts (such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA), ethylenediamine-N,N'-dipentanedioic acid (EDDG), glycineamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycineamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(2-hydroxy-phenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceriminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), β-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), complexing agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanol diglycine, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid (such as the compound sold by Bayer under the index number Bayhibit AM).
[0284] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of complexing agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acids: diethylenetriamine-penta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, hydroxyethylidene diphosphonic acid), and salts (such as disodium hydroxyethylidene diphosphonate, tetrasodium hydroxyethylidene diphosphonate).
[0285] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of complexing agents based on polyphosphonic acids: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0286] According to a particular embodiment, useful chelating agents according to the invention are phosphorus-based chelating agents, i.e., chelating agents containing one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0287] The phosphorus-based chelating agents used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably selected from:
[0288] - Inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, which are preferably selected from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, preferably alkali metals, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, preferably alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
[0289] - Organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, for example tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0290] Preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from linear or cyclic compounds that contain at least two phosphorus atoms covalently bonded together via at least one linking group L, which linking group contains at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0291] The phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives which preferably contain at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, even more preferably from alkali metal pyrophosphates, especially sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0292] The phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from organic phosphorus-based derivatives which preferably contain at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from etidronic acid (also known as 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably its alkali metal salts, such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0293] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0294] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based chelating agent is selected from tetrasodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0295] According to the present invention, the chelating agent is preferably selected from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts.
[0296] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts, and especially sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
[0297] When the composition comprises one or more chelating agents different from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts, their total content preferably ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, still better from 0.01% to 8% by weight, and even still better from 0.05% to 5% by weight.
[0298] Alkalizing agent
[0299] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkalizing agents.
[0300] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more mineral, organic or hybrid alkalizing agents.
[0301] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkalizing agent" and "alkalinizing agent" are used interchangeably.
[0302] Mineral alkalizing agents are preferably selected from ammonia water, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphate or potassium phosphate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0303] Preferably, organic alkalizing agents are selected from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines, oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine or spermidine, and mixtures thereof.
[0304] The term "alkanolamine" is intended to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group and one or more straight-chain or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0305] Particularly suitable alkanolamines for carrying out the present invention are selected from alkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines.
[0306] In particular, preferred alkanolamines are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and mixtures thereof.
[0307] Advantageously, the amino acid is a basic amino acid comprising an additional amine functional group. Such basic amino acids are preferably selected from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0308] The organic amine may also be selected from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. Besides histidine already mentioned among the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be selected from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. As amines of a type different from arginine which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, guanidinoacetic acid, metformin, agmatine, N-carbamoylalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.
[0309] Particularly, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as the hybrid compound.
[0310] The basic agent which can be used according to the present invention is preferably selected from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia water, carbonates or hydrogencarbonates such as sodium carbonate (hydrogen carbonate) and potassium carbonate (hydrogen carbonate), and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from ammonia water and alkanolamines, still more preferably selected from alkanolamines.
[0311] When the composition contains at least one basic agent, the total content of the basic agent is preferably in the range of from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, still more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, even still more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0312] According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition containing at least one basic agent is between 8 and 13; preferably 9 to 12.
[0313] The pH value of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by acidic or basic agents (such as those mentioned above) commonly used for keratin fiber dyeing, or alternatively using a buffer system known to those skilled in the art.
[0314] Chemical oxidant
[0315] The composition according to the present invention may additionally contain one or more chemical oxidants.
[0316] According to a specific embodiment, the brightening composition according to the present invention contains one or more chemical oxidants.
[0317] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not contain chemical oxidants.
[0318] According to this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is preferably mixed with at least one composition containing one or more chemical oxidants during use.
[0319] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "chemical oxidant" is intended to be understood as an oxidant other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0320] The chemical oxidants (or bleaching agents) that can be used in the present invention can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, carbamide peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peracids such as perborates and persulfates, especially sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidases (and their optional cofactors), among which peroxidase, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricase and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccase can be mentioned, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the chemical oxidant is selected from hydrogen peroxide, peracids, and mixtures thereof, and still more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0321] Preferably, when they are present in the composition according to the present invention, the chemical oxidant is present in a total content in the weight range of from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the composition.
[0322] According to a preferred embodiment, when they are present in the composition according to the present invention, the chemical oxidant selected from hydrogen peroxide, peracids, and mixtures thereof is present in a total content in the weight range of from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the composition.
[0323] Additives
[0324] The composition according to the present invention may also contain any auxiliary agents or additives commonly used.
[0325] Among the additives that can be present in the composition according to the present invention, reducing agents, thickeners, softeners, antifoaming agents, emollients, UV blockers, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic polymers, cationic polymers, nonionic polymers or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins (including panthenol), sunscreens, chelating agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, inorganic or organic thickeners (especially polymeric thickeners), antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preservatives can be mentioned.
[0326] Of course, those skilled in the art will carefully select such or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the present invention are not or are substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged additives.
[0327] The amount of each of the above additives present is usually between 0% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0328] Method
[0329] The present invention also relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in which a composition as described above is applied to said fibers.
[0330] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibers such as hair.
[0331] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation developing bases, preferably selected from 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvate salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0332] The composition according to the invention can be used for wet or dry keratin fibers, as well as for all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanently waved, bleached or relaxed fibers.
[0333] In a particular embodiment of the method according to the invention, the fibers are washed before applying the composition described above.
[0334] The application of the dye composition to the keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.
[0335] The dyeing method, i.e., the application of the dye composition to the keratin fibers, is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15 °C and 25 °C).
[0336] The residence time for which the composition according to the invention can be applied to the keratin fibers ranges from 30 to 60 minutes.
[0337] After applying the composition according to the invention, the keratin fibers can optionally be washed with shampoo and / or rinsed with water.
[0338] According to a particular embodiment, the dyeing method comprises applying to the fibers at least a composition comprising:
[0339] - at least one oxidation coupler selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvate salts thereof:
[0340]
[0341] - at least one oxidation coupler selected from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvate salts thereof:
[0342]
[0343] - One or more compounds selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof as described above,
[0344] - One or more oxidation developing bases as described above, preferably selected from 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof,
[0345] - One or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above.
[0346] According to another specific embodiment, the dyeing method comprises applying, in use, to the fiber at least a composition obtained by mixing:
[0347] · At least one composition comprising:
[0348] - At least one oxidation coupler selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts:
[0349]
[0350] - At least one oxidation coupler selected from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), one of its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts:
[0351]
[0352] - One or more compounds selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof as described above,
[0353] - One or more oxidation developing bases as described above, preferably selected from 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-p-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, and
[0354] · At least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as described above, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0355] The oxidation composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it is a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more preferably more than 20% by weight of water.
[0356] It may also include one or more organic solvents selected from the organic solvents listed previously; when these solvents are present, they more particularly represent, relative to the weight of the oxidation composition, from 1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight.
[0357] Preferably, the oxidation composition further includes one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral acids or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0358] The oxidation composition may additionally contain fatty substances, such as those described above, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.
[0359] Generally, when the oxidation component is aqueous, its pH value is less than 7.
[0360] Preferably, in an aqueous solution, the oxidation composition contains hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, and its concentration ranges more particularly from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidation composition, more particularly between 0.5% and 20%, and even more preferably between 1% and 15% by weight.
[0361] Preferably, at least one of the (dyeing or oxidation) compositions is aqueous.
[0362] When the oxidizing composition is temporarily mixed with the dyeing composition according to the invention, the pH of the resulting mixture is preferably between 8 and 11, more preferably between 9 and 10.7.
[0363] The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by an alkalizing agent or an acidifying agent, or alternatively a buffer system as defined above can be used.
[0364] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as previously described for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0365] The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device that at least includes at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention as described above, and at least includes a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents (preferably hydrogen peroxide) as described above.
[0366] The following examples are used to illustrate the present invention, however, they do not present a limiting nature. Detailed Description
[0367] Examples
[0368] In the following examples, unless otherwise stated, all amounts are given as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the active material in the composition.
[0369] Compositions A0, A1, and A2 (dye compositions) and Composition B (oxidizing composition B) were prepared from the components whose contents are specified in the following table (active material %, unless otherwise stated):
[0370] [Table 1]
[0371]
[0372] [Table 2]
[0373] Composition B Sodium salicylate 0.035 Tocopherol 0.1 Sodium pyrophosphate 0.04 Hydrogen peroxide 6 Cetearyl alcohol 6 Hexahydromagnesium chloride ammonium 0.15 Polyquaternium-6 0.2 Liquid paraffin 20 Tetrasodium etidronate 0.06 Phosphoric acid To pH 2.2 as appropriate PEG-4 rapeseed amide 1.2 Glycerol 0.5 Steareth-20 5 Water To 100 as appropriate
[0374] Protocol:
[0375] In use, dye compositions A0, A1, and A2 were mixed with 1 times their weight of oxidizing composition B (6 g% H2O2).
[0376] Each mixture was then applied to tresses of hair containing 90% naturally white (NW) hair and moderately sensitized (AS20) hair at a ratio of 5 g of the mixture / 1 g of hair.
[0377] After a 30-minute stay on a heating plate at 27 °C, the hair was rinsed, washed with L'Oréal Professionnel Pro Classics universal concentrated shampoo diluted to 10%, and dried.
[0378] Colorimetric measurements were carried out using a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectrophotometer in the CIELab system (illuminant D65, angle 10°, including the high-light component).
[0379] In this system, L* represents lightness: the lower the value of L*, the darker, stronger, and more intense the color obtained. Chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, where a* represents the green / red color axis and b* represents the blue / yellow color axis.
[0380] Selectivity is represented by the color difference ΔE between tresses of naturally white (NW) hair and tresses of moderately sensitized (AS20) hair.
[0381] The ΔE value was calculated according to the following equation:
[0382]
[0383] In this equation, L*, a*, and b* represent the values measured on the dyed natural hair (NW), and L0*, a0*, and b0* represent the values measured on the dyed sensitized hair (AS20).
[0384] The larger the value of ΔE, the greater the color difference between the tress of natural hair and the tress of sensitized hair, which means the worse the coloring uniformity and thus the greater the selectivity.
[0385] The lower the value of ΔE, the lower the color difference and thus the better the selectivity (more uniform coloring).
[0386] Selectivity:
[0387] Selectivity is represented by the color difference ΔE between the natural tress and the sensitized tress: the lower the value of ΔE, the better the selectivity.
[0388] The results are given in Table 3 below.
[0389] [Table 3]
[0390]
[0391] Compared with Comparative Compositions 1 and 2 according to the prior art, the compositions according to the invention result in a lower value of ΔE and thus in better selectivity.
[0392] Therefore, the coloring obtained with the compositions according to the invention is more uniform than the coloring obtained with the comparative compositions.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition, comprising: - at least one oxidation developer selected from one of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts: - at least one oxidation developer selected from one of 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts: - one or more compounds selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
2. The composition according to the previous claim, characterized in that The oxidation developer selected from one of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts is present in a total content in the range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The oxidation developer selected from one of 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts is present in a total content in the range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The total content of the oxidation developers selected from one of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts and 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and / or solvates of its salts is in the range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The weight ratio between the content of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) and the content of 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts is between 0.1 and 10.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition further comprises one or more color developers different from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine of formula (II) and 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (III), their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The compound selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof is selected from alkali metal salts.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The total content of the compound selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof is in the range of from 0.001% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition comprises one or more oxidation developing bases.
10. The composition according to the previous claim, characterized in that The oxidation developing base is present in a content in the range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one fatty substance.
12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one liquid fatty substance.
13. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one solid fatty substance.
14. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one surfactant.
15. The composition according to claim 1, comprising one or more chelating agents.
16. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one basic agent.
17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition further comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
18. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, the method comprising at least applying the composition as defined according to claim 17 to the fibers.
19. The method according to claim 18, wherein the composition is obtained by mixing, at the time of use: - at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16; and - at least one composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined according to claim 17.
20. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 for dyeing keratin fibers.
21. A multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16 and at least a second compartment containing one or more oxidizing agents as defined according to claim 17.
Citation Information
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