A fabric edge processing technique for solving the problem of double-layer fabric edge curling with elastic

Abstract

This invention provides a weaving process for solving the problem of curling edges in double-layered fabrics with elastic reverse sides. The process includes adjusting the selvage structure, width, and tightness; selecting appropriate selvage materials; employing a combination of single-layer and double-layer structures for the selvage structure, wherein the double-layer structure involves alternating the front and back layers of the ground fabric; maintaining a selvage width of 2.5-3.0 cm; and adjusting the selvage tightness according to the yarn type. This production process increases the rigidity of the selvage by adjusting its structure and material composition, enabling the production of double-layered fabrics with elastic reverse sides without additional dyeing and finishing equipment or manual assistance. The resulting double-layered fabrics with elastic reverse sides are free from curling edges, improving product quality and enhancing the market competitiveness of this type of fabric. Furthermore, the elimination of manual ironing effectively reduces production costs and the labor intensity of workers.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and specifically to a weaving process for solving the problem of edge curling in double-layered fabrics with elastic reverse side. Background Technology

[0002] When designing selvage, the selvage weave structure should be a double-sided weave with the same number of warp and weft floats on both sides. For simple weave fabrics, the average float length of the warp and weft in the selvage weave should be the same as that of the ground weave. For ground weave fabrics such as 1 / 1 or 2 / 2 double-sided fabrics, regardless of whether the yarn is elastic, it is fine to use a conventional double-sided weave for the selvage.

[0003] In recent years, with the increasing demands for the performance and comfort of fabrics, wool textiles have also developed some elastic fabrics. Due to their elasticity, these fabrics are generally wider and shrink more during the finishing process, often shrinking by 40-50 centimeters from the greige fabric to the finished product. When weaving double-layered fabrics with elasticity on the reverse side, that is, the inner layer is elastic and the outer layer is not elastic, the large shrinkage rate of the elastic yarn after finishing will cause fabric rolls. Fabric rolls will affect the normal production of the dyeing and finishing process, and may even cause folds and creases in the finished fabric, affecting normal delivery.

[0004] The reason why double-layered fabrics with elasticity on the reverse side curl is that the fabric's structure cannot counteract the stress difference caused by the different elasticity and shrinkage rates of the yarns on the front and back sides; the difference in shrinkage force between the front and back sides is the root cause of curling.

[0005] Spandex possesses good elasticity and a high elastic recovery rate, and its addition to fabrics can significantly improve the fabric's elasticity and comfort. Garments made from this fabric offer good shape retention and comfort. However, the chemical properties of spandex are complex, and our understanding of its performance is somewhat limited. Furthermore, due to factors such as existing dyeing and finishing equipment and the fabric's own structure, double-layer elastic fabrics containing spandex elastic yarn often experience edge curling during dyeing and finishing. This curling easily leads to creases within 30 centimeters of the edge, resulting in wrinkles in the finished fabric. To reduce the impact of these problems on the finished fabric, manual assistance methods, such as manual edge pressing, are currently used in the dyeing and finishing process. These operations not only reduce production efficiency but also increase labor intensity and costs, thereby reducing the market competitiveness of the finished fabric.

[0006] In response to this problem, the present invention provides a solution to the edge curling issue in the textile production process of double-layer fabrics with elastic reverse side. Summary of the Invention

[0007] To address the aforementioned shortcomings of existing technologies, this invention provides a selvage process in weaving to solve the selvage curling problem in double-layered fabrics with elasticity on the reverse side. This selvage process addresses the selvage curling issue that occurs in the finishing processes of some elastic fabrics by adjusting the selvage structure, including the selvage weave, width, tightness, and raw materials. This production process is specifically designed for double-layered fabrics with elasticity on the reverse side. To reduce the production difficulty and labor costs in the dyeing and finishing processes while improving the quality of the finished fabric, the weaving process incorporates various experiments in selvage design, primarily aiming to increase the resistance of the selvage to stress changes on both sides of the fabric.

[0008] The technical solution of the present invention is as follows:

[0009] A fabric selvage process for solving the selvage curling problem of double-layered elastic fabrics on the reverse side is proposed. Because only the inner (reverse) layer of the fabric has elastic warp and weft yarns, while the outer (front) layer has normal yarns, the inner layer of elastic yarns experiences significant shrinkage after finishing, resulting in severe selvage curling. This invention addresses the selvage curling problem by adjusting the selvage structure, width, tightness, and raw materials during the weaving process.

[0010] The selvage structure employs a combination of single-layer and double-layer structures. The double-layer structure used in the selvage involves switching the front and back layers of the double-layer structure used in the ground fabric. After the layer switch, the inner weft yarn of the fabric body is elastic yarn, and the outer weft yarn of the selvage is elastic yarn, which helps to balance the shrinkage on both sides and reduce the possibility of curling.

[0011] The selvage structure design is the key to the selvage process of this invention. Unlike the square or double square selvage structures used in traditional selvage, the selvage structure of this invention uses a combination of single-layer and double-layer structures. By utilizing the variation of weft float length on the front and back sides of the selvage and fabric body, the elastic yarn is subjected to balanced force on both sides, thereby achieving a smooth selvage.

[0012] The width of the selvage is between 2.5 and 3 cm, which is 1.5 to 1.6 cm compared to the conventional variety, thus increasing the width of the selvage. The wider selvage can increase the operating space for dyeing and finishing, and at the same time, it can also reduce the difference in shrinkage between the front and back sides, so as to facilitate the balance of forces on the front and back sides of the fabric.

[0013] The selvage tightness is adjusted according to the yarn type, and is between 110% and 115% of the tightness of conventional yarn types.

[0014] The selvage material contains viscose or wool-polyester yarn with low shrinkage to increase the rigidity of the selvage.

[0015] Within the fabric's structural framework, each spandex elastic yarn stores corresponding internal stress, tending towards "stress relaxation." When the sum of all relaxation stresses on the front and back of the fabric differs significantly, the dyeing and finishing process causes the spandex yarns to shrink, resulting in the fabric tending to curl towards the side with greater shrinkage. Currently, when producing this type of double-layered fabric with elasticity on the reverse side, severe edge curling problems occur during the dyeing and finishing process. Manual assistance from operators is required during production, and the dried fabric edges must be ironed before proceeding to the next step, leading to a significant increase in labor costs. Furthermore, the fabric edges are prone to creases and other quality issues. In this invention, the selvage is optimized from five aspects: selvage structure, width, tightness, raw materials, and the number of heddles. This increases the resistance to stress changes between the selvage and the fabric body, making the selvage and the fabric body have the same flatness. This allows the fabric to adhere tightly to each operating guide roller during the dyeing and finishing process, increasing the frictional resistance that the selvage needs to overcome when turning over, thereby avoiding the problem of edge curling in the dyeing and finishing process and reducing the production difficulty and labor cost of the dyeing and finishing process.

[0016] Preferably, when adjusting the selvage structure, the single-layer structure is 2 / 2 plain weave, and the double-layer structure is plain double weave; wherein the 2 / 2 plain weave serves to prevent the upper and lower layers of the selvage from being separated, and at the same time, by adjusting the starting point of the double-layer structure of the selvage, the effect of changing layers can be achieved.

[0017] Preferably, during the adjustment of the selvage structure, when using a double-layer plain weave structure that interchanges with the fabric body structure, the inner weft yarn of the selvage is normal yarn, and the outer weft yarn is elastic yarn. Conversely, the outer weft yarn of the fabric body is normal wool yarn, and the inner weft yarn is elastic yarn. That is, the elastic weft yarns are located on the front side of the selvage and the back side of the fabric body, thereby reducing the difference in shrinkage between the front and back sides and thus reducing the possibility of selvage curling.

[0018] Preferably, since the selvage structure adopts a combined structure, the number of selvage heald frames used is 8.

[0019] Preferably, in adjusting the selvage tightness, the selvage tightness is increased by increasing the warp density of the selvage. For conventional plain double-layer fabrics, the selvage tightness is consistent with the fabric tightness. This technique requires the selvage tightness to be 110%-115% of the fabric tightness. Increasing the thickness of the selvage increases its rigidity, thereby reducing the possibility of curling.

[0020] Preferably, 45-55% of the total weight of the selvage is added to the selvage with viscose or wool-polyester yarn; adding viscose or polyester to the selvage can increase the rigidity of the selvage and reduce the possibility of the selvage curling.

[0021] In the production of fabrics, to meet usage requirements, the yarn structure on the front and back of the fabric is different. The front of the fabric has normal yarns, and the back has elastic yarns. The structure is partially double-layered and partially single-layered. Due to the different elasticity of the yarns, the fabric surface has a bubbling effect after finishing. However, in the dyeing and finishing process, the fabric edge will curl towards the direction of the elastic yarn on the back, causing creases within 30 cm of the fabric body, which will prevent normal production. This invention adjusts various parameters of the fabric edge to balance the stress of the edge yarns with the stress of the fabric body yarns, thereby keeping the fabric edge flat after the wet finishing process and reducing the phenomenon of creases within 30 cm of the edge of the fabric.

[0022] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0023] 1. In the selvage process of this invention, by adjusting the selvage structure and raw material composition, the rigidity of the selvage is increased, so that double-layer fabric with elasticity on the reverse side with increased secondary shrinkage can be produced without adding any dyeing and finishing equipment or manual assistance. The resulting fabric has no problems such as curling edges, which improves the quality of the product and enhances the market competitiveness of this type of product. At the same time, since no manual ironing or other treatments are required, production costs and labor intensity of workers are effectively reduced.

[0024] 2. The production process provided by this invention greatly reduces the difficulty of dyeing and finishing, and can be produced smoothly without any manual assistance. It improves the production efficiency of double-layer fabrics with elastic yarn on the reverse side, while also improving the quality of the finished product and solving the hidden quality problems of the fabric surface before the improvement. Attached Figure Description

[0025] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, for those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0026] Figure 1 This is a diagram of the fabric structure in Example 1.

[0027] Figure 2 This is the selvage structure of Example 1.

[0028] Figure 3 This is a diagram showing the selvage state of the adjusted fabric.

[0029] Figure 4 This is a diagram showing the state of the fabric selvage after adjustment and dyeing / finishing.

[0030] Figure 5 Diagram showing the selvage state of the pre-fabricated fabric before adjustment.

[0031] Figure 6 This is a diagram showing the state of the fabric selvage after dyeing and finishing. Detailed Implementation

[0032] To enable those skilled in the art to better understand the technical solutions of this invention, the technical solutions of this invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the embodiments of this invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of this invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of this invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort should fall within the scope of protection of this invention.

[0033] Example 1

[0034] The fabric used in this embodiment has two systems, elastic yarn and non-elastic yarn, in both the warp and weft directions, and the fabric structure is available in single-layer and double-layer configurations.

[0035] For the aforementioned fabrics, the following weaving and selvage techniques are provided:

[0036] (1) Organizational design: the single layer is made of pure wool yarn woven in warp and weft, and the weave is plain weave. In the double layer fabric, the outer layer warp and weft yarns are both pure wool yarns, and the inner layer warp and weft yarns are both elastic yarns.

[0037] After processing and shrinking, the inner layer containing spandex elastic yarn shrinks, while the outer layer without spandex elastic yarn bulges, creating a three-dimensional bubbly effect.

[0038] (2) Product technical parameters: The warp yarn arrangement is 1A 1B 1A3B, and the weft yarn arrangement is 1A 1B 1A3B. Among them, warp yarn A is spandex elastic yarn, and warp yarn B is pure wool yarn. Warp yarn A is 70S / 2 elastic yarn, and warp yarn B is 96S / 2 pure wool yarn. The warp tightness of the greige fabric is 56.6, and the weft tightness is 53.1. The fabric body uses 120# steel reeds, with 3 reeds per reed.

[0039] See the fabric structure diagram. Figure 1 ;

[0040] (3) Fabric selvage design:

[0041] Fabric weave: 2 / 2 warp-pressed plain + 1 / 1 double layer, see Figure 2 ; Figure 2 In the middle, the four pieces on the left side are 2 / 2 overlapping.

[0042] Four plain double-layered pieces on the right side;

[0043] Selvage width and tightness: The design width is 2.5 cm, and the selvage tightness is 10% higher than the fabric tightness. There are 100 selvage threads, with 30 reed teeth threaded through them. The selvage width is achieved by threading (3.3.4)*10 reed teeth.

[0044] (3) Fabric edge material: The fabric edge material is a mixture of 50% viscose and 50% elastic yarn used in the fabric body, arranged in a 1:1 ratio. The addition of viscose to the fabric edge increases the rigidity of the fabric edge.

[0045] (4) The selvage is heddled. The fabric body uses 10 heddle frames. In this embodiment, the selvage uses two types of structures combined, so 8 heddle frames are used. The selvage heddling uses (11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18)*12, 11.12.13.14.

[0046] The photograph of the greige fabric obtained in this embodiment is shown below. Figure 3 See photos after dyeing and finishing. Figure 4 .

[0047] Figure 5 and Figure 6 These are, respectively, the raw fabric produced using conventional selvedge technology and the selvedge effect after finishing;

[0048] Figure 5 and Figure 6 The standard selvage technique used:

[0049] Fabric weave: 3 / 3 square plain weave;

[0050] Selvage width and tightness: Designed width 1.6 cm, selvage tightness consistent with the fabric body, 57 selvage threads.

[0051] Thread 19 reed teeth, with 3*19 reed teeth threaded across the width of the fabric edge;

[0052] (3) Selvage material: The selvage material uses the same yarn as the body yarn;

[0053] (4) The selvage is heddled, and the fabric body is constructed using a 2-piece heddle frame. The heddles are: (11.11.12.12)*14, 11;

[0054] Combination Figure 4 and Figure 6 As can be seen, using the selvage process of this invention, the resulting product has a smooth selvage after dyeing and finishing.

[0055] Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments, it is not limited thereto. Various equivalent modifications or substitutions can be made to the embodiments of the present invention by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and essence of the invention, and such modifications or substitutions should all be within the scope of the present invention. Any variations or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope disclosed in the present invention should also be covered within the protection scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention should be determined by the scope of the claims.

Claims

1. A fabric selvage process for solving the problem of curling edges in double-layered fabrics with elastic reverse side, characterized in that, This includes adjusting the selvage structure, selvage width, selvage tightness, and selvage material; The selvage weave employs a combination of single-layer and double-layer weaves; wherein the double-layer weave used in the selvage weave involves alternating the front and back layers of the double-layer weave used in the ground weave. When adjusting the selvage structure, the single-layer structure is 2 / 2 flat weave, and the double-layer structure is plain double weave; During the adjustment of the selvage structure, when adopting a double-layer plain weave structure that is interchanged with the fabric body structure, the inner weft yarn of the selvage double-layer structure after the interchange is normal yarn, and the outer weft yarn is elastic yarn. The width of the fabric selvage is 2.5-3.0 cm; The selvage tightness is adjusted according to the yarn type. The selvage material is made by adding viscose or wool-polyester yarn with low shrinkage. Add 45-55% of viscose or wool-polyester yarn by weight to the selvage.

2. The selvage process for solving the selvage curling problem of double-layered fabrics with elastic reverse side as described in claim 1, characterized in that, When using a combined organization, the number of heald frames is 8.

3. The weaving process for solving the problem of curling edges in double-layered fabrics with elastic reverse side as described in claim 1, characterized in that, In adjusting the selvage tightness, the selvage tightness is increased by increasing the warp density of the selvage.

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