An essence containing a firming anti-wrinkle composition and a method for preparing the same

Abstract

The application discloses an essence containing a firming and anti-wrinkle composition and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the field of cosmetic preparations; the essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition comprises the following components: a firming and anti-wrinkle composition, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol and a solvent; wherein the firming and anti-wrinkle composition comprises boletus extract, radix paeonia extract, radix valerianae extract and cyclocarya paliurus extract. The essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition provided by the application has an inhibition rate of elastase activity of 65% or more, has a significant promoting effect on type I collagen synthesis, and has an excellent effect on free radical elimination.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the field of cosmetic preparations, and particularly relates to a serum containing a firming and anti-wrinkle composition and a preparation method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] With the growth of age, the skin will appear aging, and the first aging of the skin is from the eye. Since the skin around the eye is more fragile than the facial skin, the skin around the eye evaporates water faster, and at the same time, the sweat glands and sebaceous glands of the skin around the eye are less distributed, so that the collagen in the skin around the eye is rapidly lost, and the skin around the eye is more prone to aging, and the eye bags, tear grooves and fish tail wrinkles are all signals of eye aging.

[0003] Elastin is located in the dermis of the skin, exists between the intercellular space of the dermis, maintains the stability of the tissue structure together with other extracellular matrix such as collagen, and mainly provides cell adhesion and support. At the same time, its strong stretchability and elasticity are also important reasons for maintaining the elasticity of the skin. The biggest feature of elastin is that the structure and properties are very stable. It is neither easy to be dissolved nor easy to be degraded, and it also has elasticity and can be stretched several times the original length. Skin aging can be generally divided into natural aging and photoaging. During the natural aging process of human beings, elastin is degraded. Although elastin is particularly stable, there is still an enzyme in the human body that can degrade it, called elastase. Elastase is one of the most important enzymes in the matrix metalloproteinase family, mainly synthesized and secreted by fibroblasts, and can degrade elastin in the skin to cause skin aging.

[0004] With the growth of age, the human body's ability to inhibit elastase becomes weaker and weaker, and the activity of elastase becomes stronger and stronger. Elastase not only can degrade most extracellular matrix proteins including elastin, but also can activate the activity of other matrix metalloproteinases to accelerate the degradation of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, thereby causing the normal structure and function of the human dermis to be severely damaged, causing the skin to produce obvious wrinkles and lose elasticity. Therefore, inhibiting the activity of elastase can play a firming and anti-wrinkle effect to a certain extent.

[0005] At present, the effect of conventional firming and anti-wrinkle cosmetics is always unsatisfactory. The synergistic effect of the combination of raw materials is poor, not only cannot play a synergistic effect, but also may cancel each other out, weakening the effect of each component when acting alone. Therefore, it is of great significance to develop a product with firming and anti-wrinkle effect. SUMMARY

[0006] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, the present application aims to provide a firming and anti-wrinkle composition which effectively inhibits the activity of elastase and has excellent synergistic effect between raw material components, as well as a serum containing the composition and a preparation method.

[0007] To achieve the above object, the present application discloses an essence containing a firming and anti-wrinkle composition, comprising a solvent and the following components in mass fraction:

[0008] the firming and anti-wrinkle composition 1.5-2 parts;

[0009] palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.3-1 part;

[0010] hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol 1.4-2.2 parts;

[0011] The firming and anti-wrinkle composition comprises Morchella angusticeps extract, Paeonia lactiflora root extract, Valeriana officinalis root extract and Cyclobalanopsis gilva extract.

[0012] Specifically, the mass ratio of the Morchella angusticeps extract, Paeonia lactiflora root extract, Valeriana officinalis root extract and Cyclobalanopsis gilva extract is 1:(0.23-0.57):(5.45-6.70):(2.64-3.11).

[0013] The Morchella angusticeps extract contains a variety of polysaccharides, amino acids, polypeptides, vitamins and other components, has a significant antioxidant and free radical scavenging effect, can also strengthen moisturizing, repair damaged skin, restore the skin barrier and normal metabolic function, and the polysaccharide component in the Morchella angusticeps extract can help to remove excessive DPPH free radicals and carboxyl radicals in the body, offset the oxidative attack of free radicals on human cells, repair the oxidative erosion damage of free radicals to the skin, slow down the aging process of the skin, reduce wrinkles and other skin problems.

[0014] The Paeonia lactiflora root extract contains rich active components, including paeoniflorin, flavonoids, triterpenoids, phenolic acid compounds, active polysaccharides and active peptides, has a good inhibitory effect on elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase, has a good antioxidant effect, and has a good effect on repairing cells damaged by ultraviolet rays.

[0015] The Valeriana officinalis root extract is rich in volatile components such as α, β-pinene, valerian terpene ketone, valerian naphthalene alcohol, valerian terpene alcohol acid, valerian terpene acid, etc., has the effects of skin whitening, pigment deposition inhibition and UV-absorbing reduction, and also has the effects of reducing sebum production, resisting excessive sebum production and regulating skin and hair follicle disorders.

[0016] The Cyclobalanopsis gilva extract contains rich antioxidant active components, including flavonoids, polysaccharides, terpenoids, inorganic elements, vitamin E and vitamin C and other antioxidant substances, can effectively combine with free radicals to play a role in scavenging free radicals and delaying skin aging.

[0017] It is found by the present application that the extract of Boletus aereus, the extract of Paeonia lactiflora, the extract of Valeriana officinalis and the extract of Cyclocarya paliurus have the common effect of promoting skin repair, and the synergistic effect can effectively improve the ability of inhibiting elastase activity, promote the synthesis of skin collagen and enhance the removal of free radical ions.

[0018] Specifically, the preparation method of the extract of Valeriana officinalis comprises the following steps:

[0019] (1) A certain amount of Valeriana officinalis is cut and stirred uniformly with water, and then a compound micro-ecological preparation is added. After fermentation for 24-48 hours, a crude extract of Valeriana officinalis is obtained;

[0020] (2) The crude extract of Valeriana officinalis is filtered to remove residues and concentrated to obtain the extract of Valeriana officinalis.

[0021] More specifically, the mass ratio of Valeriana officinalis to water in step (1) is 1:(1.0-1.3); the addition amount of the compound micro-ecological preparation is 1-2% of the total mass of Valeriana officinalis and water, and the microorganisms in the compound micro-ecological preparation include Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus coagulans, wherein the viable count of Bacillus subtilis is ≥100 billion CFU / g, and the viable count of Bacillus coagulans is ≥50 billion CFU / g.

[0022] In step (2), the crude extract of Valeriana officinalis is filtered through a filter screen with a mesh size of ≥60, and then concentrated to a paste with water content of 10-15% to obtain the extract of Valeriana officinalis.

[0023] After fermentation of Valeriana officinalis by the compound micro-ecological preparation, active nutrients in Valeriana officinalis can be effectively released; during fermentation, the compound micro-ecological preparation releases protease, lipase and cellulase to decompose plant cell walls, so that active nutrients in Valeriana officinalis that cannot be released in the ordinary physical crushing process can be fully released and dissolved in the solvent, thereby improving the extraction rate of the extract of Valeriana officinalis.

[0024] Specifically, the essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition further comprises but is not limited to the following components: a chelating agent, a thickening agent, a humectant, a pH adjusting agent and a preservative.

[0025] More specifically, the thickening agent is at least one of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, xanthan gum and tert-butyl alcohol.

[0026] More specifically, the humectant is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, betaine, glycerol, butanediol and erythritol.

[0027] More specifically, the preservative is at least one of propylene glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin and p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0028] More specifically, the chelating agent is at least one of disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA;

[0029] The pH regulator is at least one of aminomethyl propanol, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide.

[0030] The application further discloses a preparation method of the essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition.

[0031] Step (1), the solvent, the chelating agent and the thickening agent are mixed and stirred in a certain amount to obtain a mixture;

[0032] Step (2), the humectant, the firming and anti-wrinkle composition, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, the pH regulator and the preservative are added into the mixture in a certain amount, and then stirred to obtain the essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition.

[0033] The application has the following beneficial effects:

[0034] 1. The firming and anti-wrinkle composition provided by the application has an elastase inhibition rate of more than 65%, can significantly promote the synthesis of collagen I, and has a significant effect on free radical elimination.

[0035] 2. The essence provided by the application can repair damaged skin, slow down the aging process of the skin, reduce wrinkles, and treat other skin problems such as yellowing; has a good inhibitory effect on elastase, has excellent antioxidant effect, and has a good effect on repairing cells damaged by ultraviolet rays. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0036] For better illustrating the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the application, the application will be further described in combination with specific examples. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that the specific examples described herein are only used to explain the application, and are not used to limit the application.

[0037] Unless otherwise specified, the test methods used in the examples and comparative examples are conventional methods; the materials, reagents and the like used, unless otherwise specified, can be obtained from commercial channels; the percentages mentioned in the examples and comparative examples, unless otherwise specified, are mass percentages.

[0038] In the application:

[0039] The Tuber Melanosporum extract is an extract of Tuber Melanosporum, the INCI name of which is Tuber Melanosporum Extract, and the CAS No. is 85085-76-3, which is purchased from Xi'an Shangcheng Biological Technology Co., Ltd.

[0040] The peony root extract is a peony (PAEONIA ALBIFLORA) root extract, with an INCI name of PAEONIA ALBIFLORA ROOT EXTRACT and a CAS No. of 84929-40-8, which is purchased from Xi'an Shangcheng Biological Technology Co., Ltd.

[0041] The cyclocarya extract is a cyclocarya (CYCLOCARYA PALIURUS) extract, with a Latin name of CYCLOCARYA PALIURUS EXTRACT, which is purchased from Shanghai Gander Chemical Technology Co., Ltd.

[0042] Preparation of examples and comparative examples

[0043] Preparation of valerian root extract (valerian root water extract after microbial fermentation)

[0044] Step (1), a certain amount of valerian root was cut and added with deionized water to stir uniformly, the mass ratio of valerian root to deionized water was 1: (1.0-1.3) (see Table 1 for details), then 1-2 g of compound microbial preparation (compound of bacillus subtilis and bacillus coagulans) was added per 100 g of valerian root and water, and the valerian root was immersed and fermented at room temperature for 24-48 h without sealing, and stirred every 2 h during the process, to obtain a valerian root crude extract;

[0045] (2) The valerian root crude extract was filtered through a 60-70 mesh filter screen to remove the residue, and then concentrated to a paste with a water content of 10-15%, to obtain valerian root extract 1-3.

[0046] Table 1 Raw materials and parameters for preparation of valerian root extract

[0047]

[0048] Note: The raw material unit in the table is mass fraction, and “—” indicates that it is not added.

[0049] Preparation of valerian root extract (valerian root water extract without microbial fermentation)

[0050] Step (1), a certain amount of valerian root was cut and added with deionized water to stir uniformly, the mass ratio of valerian root to deionized water was 1: (1.0-1.3), then immersed at 70°C for 72 h, and stirred every 2 h during the process, to obtain a valerian root crude extract;

[0051] (2) The valerian root crude extract was filtered through a 60-70 mesh filter screen to remove the residue, and then concentrated to a paste with a water content of 10-15%, to obtain valerian root extract 4, 5, as shown in Table 1.

[0052] Preparation of firming and anti-wrinkle composition

[0053] Tuber melanosporum extract, peony root extract, valerian root extract and Cyclocarya paliurus extract were mixed according to the mass fractions in Table 2 to obtain firming and anti-wrinkle compositions 1-7.

[0054] Table 2

[0055]

[0056]

[0057] Note: “——” in the table means no addition

[0058] Preparation of essence containing firming and anti-wrinkle composition

[0059] Step (1), taking a solvent, a chelating agent, and a thickener according to the mass parts in Table 3, mixing and stirring to obtain a mixture;

[0060] Step (2), taking a moisturizer, a firming and anti-wrinkle composition, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, a pH regulator, and a preservative in parts by mass according to Table 3, adding them to the mixture in a certain amount, and stirring to obtain an embodiment and a comparative example.

[0061] Table 3 Examples and Comparative Examples

[0062]

[0063]

[0064] Table 3 Examples and Comparative Examples (Continued)

[0065]

[0066] Note: “——” in the table means not added.

[0067] Performance testing:

[0068] Elastase inhibition test

[0069] This test uses porcine pancreatic elastase as the test subject and N-succinyl-alanine-alanine-alanine-p-nitroanilide (AAAPVN) as the substrate. Porcine pancreatic elastase hydrolyzes AAAPVN, and the hydrolysis product increases absorbance at 420 nm. This absorbance is measured using a microplate reader to evaluate the firming and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the Examples and Comparative Examples.

[0070] 1. Solution Preparation

[0071] (1) Samples to be tested: Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-5 are taken respectively.

[0072] (2) Tris-HCl buffer solution (0.1M PH=8.0) was configured: 2.42g of Tris was weighed in a beaker, 200ml of ultrapure water was added, and after complete dissolution, the PH was adjusted to 8.0 with concentrated HCl.

[0073] (3) Configuration of positive control tea polyphenol solution (1mg / ml): 5mg of tea polyphenol was weighed and dissolved with 5ml of Tris-HCl buffer solution.

[0074] (4) Configuration of substrate solution AAAPVN (2mM): 4.51mg of N-succinyl-alanine-alanine-alanine-p-nitroaniline was weighed and dissolved with 5ml of Tris-HCl buffer solution.

[0075] (5) Configuration of porcine pancreatic elastase solution (0.171U / mL): 280ul was dissolved in 10ml of Tris-HCl buffer solution.

[0076] 2. Grouping and sample addition

[0077] The experiment was divided into 4 groups, namely the sample group to be tested, the positive control group, the blank control group, and the model control group. Four replicate wells were set for the same concentration in the same group. The amount of each solution added is shown in Table 4.

[0078] Table 4 Test grouping

[0079]

[0080] 3. Determination method

[0081] The reaction was placed at room temperature for 15min, and the absorbance was measured at 420nm with an enzyme marker.

[0082] 4. Calculation formula

[0083]

[0084] In the formula: A0 is the average absorbance of the blank control well;

[0085] A1 is the average absorbance of the sample well;

[0086] A2 is the average absorbance of the model control well.

[0087] 5. Experimental results

[0088] Table 5 Porcine pancreatic elastase inhibition rate results

[0089] Sample Name Elastase Inhibition Rate Model Control 0.00％ Blank Control / Positive Control Tea Polyphenol (1 mg / mL) 70.52％ Example 1 68.74％ Example 2 71.14％ Example 3 68.99％ Example 4 68.20％ Example 5 70.43％ Comparative Example 1 53.05％ Comparative Example 2 60.79％ Comparative Example 3 56.33％ Comparative Example 4 56.41％ Comparative Example 5 64.30％

[0090] Promote type I collagen synthesis test

[0091] The experiment takes fibroblasts as the detection object, and establishes a cell photoaging damage model by UVA irradiation, and detects the changes in the content of collagen I after the action of the test sample, to evaluate the firming and anti-wrinkle effect of the test sample.

[0092] (1) Inoculation: inoculate cells into a 96-well plate at a seeding density of 1 x 10 4 cells / well, and place in an incubator for incubation overnight (37°C, 5% CO2).

[0093] (2) UVA irradiation: after washing the cells with PBS, according to the experimental grouping, the UVA irradiation group is irradiated with UVA at 30 J / cm 2 .

[0094] (2) Liquid preparation: select Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-5 as the test sample solution, and perform experiments with TGF-β (100 ng / mL) as the positive control. Add 100 uL of sample to each well, and set 3 replicate wells for each group. After the administration is completed, place the 96-well plate in a 37°C incubator for incubation in the dark for 24 h.

[0095] (4) Collection of cell supernatant: after 24 h of administration, remove the 96-well plate, and collect the cell supernatant of each sample group into a centrifuge tube, centrifuge at 1000 rpm for 10 min, collect the supernatant in a 1.5 mL centrifuge tube, and store at -20°C for standby use.

[0096] (5) Determination of the concentration of collagen I in the cell supernatant by ELISA kit: remove the kit and the test sample 30 min before testing, and use after placing at room temperature. The test operation is strictly in accordance with the kit instruction manual.

[0097] Table 6 Results of collagen I content detection

[0098] Sample Name Average Collagen Type I Content (ng / mL) Collagen Type I Increase Rate Model Control 1.304±0.129 / Blank (Not Subjected to UVA Damage) 1.793±0.104 37.51％ Positive (TGFβ1 100 ng / mL) 1.579±0.090 21.11％ Example 1 2.032±0.366 55.79％ Example 2 2.114±0.211 62.03％ Example 3 2.009±0.132 54.01％ Example 4 2.020±0.306 54.13％ Example 5 2.121±0.175 62.43％ Comparative Example 1 1.804±0.101 38.02％ Comparative Example 2 1.670±0.028 28.07％ Comparative Example 3 1.921±0.031 47.10％ Comparative Example 4 1.941±0.257 48.94％ Comparative Example 5 1.549±0.020 18.80％

[0099] Antioxidant test (DPPH free radical scavenging)

[0100] DPPH methanol solution is violet, and has a strong absorbance value at 517 nm. If combined with the test sample, the absorbance value at 517 nm will decrease, thereby judging the ability of the sample to scavenge DPPH free radicals.

[0101] (1) Test design

[0102] DPPH is prepared into 2 x 10 -4mol / L solution, examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-5 as the liquid to be detected, prepare several portions of 2 mL each of the liquid to be detected, anhydrous ethanol, and DPPH solution, respectively, after mixing, place at room temperature for 30 minutes, measure the absorbance at a wavelength of 517 nm to obtain Ai, measure each sample in triplicate, and take the average value.

[0103] Take Vc as the positive control, take the absorbance value of anhydrous ethanol instead of DPPH as the control Aj blank, and mix DPPH solution and anhydrous ethanol to measure the absorbance Ac.

[0104] Calculate the DPPH free radical scavenging rate of each sample according to the following formula (1), and record it in Table 7 below.

[0105] Scavenging rate (%) = (1 - (Ai - Aj) / Ac) x 100% (1)

[0106] In the formula, Ai is the absorbance of 2 mL of the example or comparative example liquid + 2 mL of the DPPH reagent mixture; Aj is the absorbance of 2 mL of the sample solution + 2 mL of the anhydrous ethanol mixture; and Ac is the absorbance of 2 mL of the DPPH solution + 2 mL of the anhydrous ethanol mixture.

[0107] Table 7 DPPH scavenging rate

[0108] Group DPPH Scavenging Rate Example 1 66.21％ Example 2 70.11％ Example 3 67.22％ Example 4 65.42％ Example 5 70.64％ Comparative Example 1 53.73％ Comparative Example 2 51.48％ Comparative Example 3 60.18％ Comparative Example 4 59.62％ Comparative Example 5 43.17％

[0109] Result analysis

[0110] According to the performance test results of example 1 and comparative examples 1 and 2, it can be seen that the Boletus aereus extract, the Paeonia lactiflora root extract, the Valeriana officinalis root extract, and the Cyclobalanopsis glauca extract in the firming and anti-wrinkle composition have a common effect of promoting skin repair, and under the synergistic effect, they can effectively improve the ability to inhibit elastase activity, promote the synthesis of skin collagen, and enhance the scavenging effect on free radical ions; and through the preferred addition ratio in the present application, the effect is improved.

[0111] According to the performance test results of example 1 and comparative examples 3 and 4, it can be seen that the Valeriana officinalis root can effectively release active nutrients in the Valeriana officinalis root after fermentation of the compound microecological preparation, and the compound microecological preparation releases cellulase during fermentation to decompose plant cell walls, so that the active nutrients in the Valeriana officinalis root can be fully dissolved in the solvent, thereby improving the extraction rate of the Valeriana officinalis root extract.

[0112] Finally, it should be pointed out that the above examples and comparative examples are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present application and do not limit the protection scope of the present application. Although the present application has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present application can be modified or equivalently replaced without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present application.

Claims

1. An essence containing a firming and anti-wrinkle composition, characterized in that: Including solvent and the following components in parts by weight: 1.5-2 parts of firming and anti-wrinkle composition; Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.3-1 part; 1.4-2.2 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; The firming and anti-wrinkle composition is composed of black truffle extract, peony root extract, valerian root extract, and Cyclocarya paliurus extract; The mass ratio of the black truffle extract, the peony root extract, the valerian root extract and the Cyclocarya paliurus extract is 1: (0.23-0.57): (5.45-6.70): (2.64-3.11); The preparation method of the valerian root extract comprises the following steps: (1) Take a certain amount of valerian root, chop it, add water and stir evenly, then add the compound microecological preparation, and ferment it for 24-48 hours to obtain the crude valerian root extract; (2) filtering the crude valerian root extract, removing the residue, and concentrating the extract to obtain a valerian root extract; The mass ratio of valerian root to water in step (1) is 1:(1.0-1.3); The addition amount of the compound probiotic preparation is 1-2% of the total mass of the valerian root and water, and the microorganisms in the compound probiotic preparation include Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus coagulans; The viable bacterial count of the Bacillus subtilis is ≥10 billion CFU / g, and the viable bacterial count of the Bacillus coagulans is ≥5 billion CFU / g; In the step (2), the crude valerian root extract is filtered through a filter screen with a mesh size of ≥60, and then concentrated to a paste containing 10-15% water to obtain the valerian root extract.

2. The essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: It also includes but is not limited to the following components: chelating agents, thickeners, humectants, pH adjusters, and preservatives.

3. The essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: The thickener is at least one of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, xanthan gum, and tert-butyl alcohol.

4. The essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent is at least one of sodium hyaluronate, betaine, glycerin, butylene glycol, and erythritol.

5. The essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: The preservative is at least one of propylene glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, and p-hydroxyacetophenone.

6. The essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: The chelating agent is at least one of disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA; The pH regulator is at least one of aminomethyl propanol, sodium citrate and sodium hydroxide.

7. The method for preparing the essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 2, wherein: The following steps are involved: Step (1), mixing and stirring the solvent, chelating agent, and thickener in a certain amount to obtain a mixture; Step (2) adds the moisturizer, firming and anti-wrinkle composition, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pH regulator, and preservative into the mixture in a certain amount, and stirs to obtain the essence containing the firming and anti-wrinkle composition.

Images