Emulsion with liquid crystal structure

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic emulsion.

Description

Background Art

[0001] Cosmetics are often used not only to make people look beautiful and attractive, but also play a decisive role in improving people's self-esteem and sense of well-being. Therefore, a wide variety of cosmetics are used for daily cleansing and care of human skin.

[0002] Skin care products usually consist of emulsions. An emulsion is generally understood to be a heterogeneous system consisting of two liquids that are immiscible or only miscible with each other to a limited extent, these liquids are usually called phases, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of fine droplets in the other liquid. From the outside, an emulsion appears homogeneous to the naked eye.

[0003] If the two liquids are water and oil, and the oil droplets are finely distributed in the water, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, such as milk). The essential characteristics of an O / W emulsion are imparted by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, such as butter) involves the opposite principle, in which the essential characteristics are determined by the oil.

[0004] In order to stabilize and thicken O / W emulsions, acrylate-based polymers are usually incorporated into these formulations. Acrylate-based polymers are polymers obtained by homopolymerization or copolymerization with acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid. Examples of this are especially carbomers or acrylate copolymers.

[0005] Emulsions with acrylates are known, inter alia, from DE 10148825 A1, DE 19938756 A1 and DE 29924371 U1.

[0006] Acrylate-based polymers are used in particular in tiegel emulsions in combination with wax components. The key to these formulations is their rheological properties. The viscosity of the formulation should therefore be such that the formulation does not drip from an opened tiegel under standard conditions. These formulations therefore have only limited flow under standard conditions. Particularly popular are tiegel products that are formulated so that the formulation melts on the skin after application, thereby giving the user a special skin feel.

[0007] However, the use of these acrylate-based polymers has been increasingly criticized because their biodegradability has not been fully elucidated.

[0008] The problem is that the replacement of the carbomer results in the bowl being particularly susceptible to flow, especially at high temperatures. This can only be compensated by formulating the wax component with a higher melting point. However, this has the disadvantage of counteracting the skin-melting effect. As a result, the product advantage is lost. Summary of the invention

[0009] The object of the present invention is to provide an emulsion which does not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which allows a skin-melting effect to be achieved at elevated temperatures while preventing product run-off.

[0010] Elevated temperatures refer to temperatures of 45°C, since these temperatures can be reached by solar radiation during storage of the product.

[0011] Furthermore, DE 2909087 C2 describes a method for determining the consistency of a pasty preparation such as an ointment. Here, the perceptible pressure generated when a measuring body is guided through the ointment according to a defined course is determined. The resulting consistency indicates the force that needs to be applied to guide the measuring body through the ointment. This is essential for products such as ointments, which are stored in a bowl-shaped container and are taken with the fingers. It is desirable that the formulation has sufficient consistency. Then taking with the fingers can be easily performed. If the consistency is too low, the ointment can only be moved with the fingers and cannot be easily taken.

[0012] Another disadvantage of the prior art is that the consistency of creams and paste-like emulsions can usually only be achieved at a satisfactory level with acrylate-based polymers. In particular, at higher temperatures, such as 45° C., emulsions without acrylates usually show insufficient consistency.

[0013] Surprisingly, the present invention can solve the problems of the prior art.

[0014] The subject of the present invention is an acrylate-free cosmetic emulsion having

[0015] a) an emulsifier system that forms a liquid crystal network in the emulsion, wherein the emulsifier system comprises

[0016] a. at least one fatty alcohol glucoside; and

[0017] b. Myristyl alcohol

[0018] b) at least one polysaccharide; and

[0019] c) at least one wax component having a melting point below 43°C.

[0020] By definition, acrylate-free means free of polymers obtained by homopolymerization or copolymerization with acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.

[0021] By definition, fatty alcohols have a carbon chain of C-10 to C-20. Therefore, the alcohol residue of the fatty alcohol glycoside also has such a carbon chain.

[0022] A subject of the present invention is also the use of the emulsions according to the invention for providing cosmetic products.

[0023] Advantageously, it is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0024] If the weight percentage data (wt%) given below do not mention a specific composition or a concrete mixture, these data should always refer to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If ratios of components / substances / substance groups are disclosed below, these ratios refer to the weight ratios between the components / substances / substance groups mentioned.

[0025] If weight percent ranges for cosmetic emulsion ingredients are given below, the disclosure of this application also includes all individual values ​​within these weight percent ranges in steps of 0.1 weight percent.

[0026] The expressions “according to the invention”, “advantageously according to the invention”, “advantageous in the sense of the invention” etc. always relate to the preparations according to the invention and the uses according to the invention.

[0027] Unless otherwise stated, all tests were carried out under standard conditions. The term "standard conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and 50% relative humidity.

[0028] If the term skin is used it preferably refers to human skin.

[0029] If viscosity values ​​are given in the present disclosure, all values ​​refer to measurements at 25° C. using a Rheomat R 123 from pro Rheo GmbH in a 150 ml wide-necked bottle (VWR number: 807-001). The Rheomat R 123 from pro Rheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. the measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a given rotational speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. Measuring body No. 2 (article number 200 0192) was used as the measuring body with a speed range of 62.5 min / min. -1 .

[0030] According to the invention, the emulsion has an emulsifier system which forms a liquid crystal network in the emulsion. The presence of such a network is therefore a characteristic of the emulsion according to the invention. It is advantageously a liquid crystal gel network.

[0031] Surprisingly, it has been found that the gel network formed specifically in the present invention, in combination with the other components of the present invention, allows the provision of acrylate-free, bowl-shaped container-compatible emulsions which, under standard conditions, do not flow out when the bowl-shaped container is tilted or turned upside down after opening. The shape of the formulation is retained. This is also true at higher temperatures, for example 45° C.

[0032] Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that at elevated temperature the consistency of the formulation decreases less.

[0033] The emulsifier system according to the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol glucoside. Advantageously, the fatty alcohol glucoside is selected from the group of substances with the INCI names: Arachidyl Glucoside; C10-16 Alkyl Glucoside; C12-18 Alkyl Glucoside; C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside; Cocoyl Glucoside; C9-11 Alkyl Glucoside; Octyl / Decyl Glucoside; Octyl Glucoside; Cetearyl Glucoside; Decyl Glucoside; Isostearyl Glucoside; Lauryl Glucoside; Myristyl Glucoside and / or Undecyl Glucoside. Preferred are cetearyl glucoside, octyl glucoside, octyl / decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and myristyl glucoside. Particularly preferred is cetearyl glucoside.

[0034] Advantageously, the weight proportion of all fatty alcohol glucosides in the emulsion is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 3.5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.2 to 2.2% by weight, in each case relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0035] It is also advantageous if the total weight proportion of arachidyl glucoside; C10-16 alkyl glucoside; C12-18 alkyl glucoside; C12-20 alkyl glucoside; cocoyl glucoside; C9-11 alkyl glucoside; octyl / decyl glucoside; octyl glucoside; cetearyl glucoside; decyl glucoside; isostearyl glucoside; lauryl glucoside; myristyl glucoside and / or undecyl glucoside is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 3.5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.2 to 2.2% by weight, in each case relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0036] It is particularly advantageous if the proportion of cetearyl glucoside, octyl glucoside, octyl / decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and / or myristyl glucoside is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 3.5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.2 to 2.2% by weight, each relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0037] It is particularly advantageous if the proportion of cetearyl glucoside is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 3.5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.2 to 2.2% by weight, in each case relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0038] It is also advantageous if the emulsifier system comprises sorbitan stearate. If sorbitan stearate is present, the total proportion of sorbitan stearate is advantageously 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, 0.15 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0039] It is also advantageous if the emulsifier system includes disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate. If disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate is present, the total proportion of disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate is advantageously 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 0.2% by weight, in particular 0.04 to 0.10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0040] It is also advantageous if the emulsifier system comprises glyceryl stearate. If glyceryl stearate is present, the total proportion of glyceryl stearate is advantageously 0.1 to 1.8% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, in particular 0.7 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0041] Furthermore, the emulsifier system comprises myristyl alcohol. The proportion of myristyl alcohol is advantageously 0.2 to 6.5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 3.0 to 4.0% by weight, in each case relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0042] In fact, it is surprising to a person skilled in the art that liquid crystal structures can be formed with fatty alcohols having a melting point below 40° C. Usually it is necessary to use fatty alcohols with higher melting points, such as stearyl alcohol. Surprisingly, the combination of the other components of the invention with myristyl alcohol allows the formation of liquid crystal structures.

[0043] Liquid crystal structures in emulsions can be visualized by optical microscopy using polarized light. See “Study on the Formation and Properties of Liquid Crystal Emulsion in Cosmetic”, Wanping Zhang*, Lingyan Liu, School of Flavor and Fragrance Technology, Shanghai University of Technology, Shanghai, China, Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2013.

[0044] Advantageously, the liquid crystal structure in the emulsions of the invention is present as a globular structure, which can be identified by the appearance of a typical Maltese cross in an optical microscope image using polarized light.

[0045] Furthermore, the emulsion according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide. The polysaccharide is advantageously chosen from polysaccharide gums, starch and / or cellulose.

[0046] Among the polysaccharide gums, particular preference is given to using the substances having the INCI names xanthan gum, guar gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and / or tara gum. Xanthan gum, guar gum and / or gellan gum are particularly preferred.

[0047] Among the starches, preference is given to using the substances known under the INCI names Zea Mays starch, sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, tapioca starch, modified potato starch and / or distarch phosphate. In particular, preference is given to using nonionic starches, in particular hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and / or distarch phosphate, of which hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is most preferred.

[0048] Among the celluloses, preference is given to those known by the INCI names ethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and / or hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0049] The proportion of polysaccharide in the emulsion is advantageously 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0050] The proportion of polysaccharide gum in the emulsion is advantageously 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0051] Advantageously, the total proportion of xanthan gum, guar gum and / or gellan gum in the emulsion is 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0052] The proportion of starch in the emulsion is advantageously from 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0053] Advantageously, the total content of corn starch, sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, tapioca starch, modified potato starch and / or dispersed phosphoric acid esters in the emulsion is 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0054] Advantageously, the total proportion of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and / or distarch phosphate in the emulsion is 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0055] Advantageously, the total proportion of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in the emulsion is 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0056] The proportion of cellulose in the emulsion is advantageously 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Advantageously, the total proportion of ethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and / or hydroxyethylcellulose in the emulsion is 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0057] Furthermore, the emulsion comprises at least one wax component having a melting point below 43°C.

[0058] Advantageously, at least one wax component having a melting point in the range of 25° C. to 43° C. is contained. The presence of such a low-melting wax component ensures that the preparation melts on human skin. Surprisingly, at the same time, the consistency is better maintained (less reduction), in particular at temperatures around 45° C. Furthermore, surprisingly, phase separation at 45° C. can be prevented.

[0059] By definition, fatty alcohols and fatty acids having an alkyl chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms do not belong to the wax components.

[0060] Advantageously, the total content of wax components with a melting point in the range from 25° C. to 43° C. is 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 2.2 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0061] Preferred wax components within the melting point range are myristyl myristate, hydrogenated coconut glycerides and / or cetyl ricinoleate.

[0062] Advantageously, the total content of myristyl myristate, hydrogenated coconut glyceride and / or cetyl ricinoleate is 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 2.2 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0063] If myristyl myristate is present, it is preferred that the proportion of myristyl myristate is 0.5 to 5.5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.2 to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. If hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides are present, it is preferred that the proportion of hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides is 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. If cetyl ricinoleate is present, it is preferred that the proportion of cetyl ricinoleate is 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0064] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention that no high melting point waxes having a melting point above 43° C. are contained or their proportion is less than 0.5% by weight of the emulsion. Surprisingly, a stable formulation can be provided at 45° C. without adding a high melting point wax component. It is assumed that the formation of a liquid crystal structure at 45° C. achieves stability of the formulation to prevent phase separation and thus achieve consistency.

[0065] It is also advantageous if the emulsion contains one or more oil components that are liquid under standard conditions. It is generally preferred that the proportion of oil components that are liquid under standard conditions is 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, particularly preferably 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0066] Advantageously, the oil contained is selected from natural oils. Advantageously, the natural oil contained is selected from avocado oil, babassu seed oil, argan oil, almond oil, jojoba seed oil, shea butter, coconut oil, milk thistle seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, sunflower seed oil, grape seed oil, vegetable oil, cottonseed oil, burdock seed oil, macadamia seed oil, macadamia seed oil, corn germ oil, sweet almond oil, castor seed oil, rapeseed oil and / or soybean oil. If containing natural oil, the total content of these oils is advantageously 0.01 to 3 weight %, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 weight %, particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.8 weight %, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0067] It is also advantageous to contain one or more esters of coconut fatty alcohol. In this context, particular preference is given to using coconut caprylate / caprate. If coconut fatty alcohol esters are present, the proportion of these esters is advantageously 0.2 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.8 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. If coconut caprylate / caprate is present, the proportion of coconut caprylate / caprate is advantageously 0.2 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.8 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0068] It is also preferred to contain one or more oils which are triglycerides of three identical fatty acids. Particularly preferred is triisostearin. If triglycerides of three identical fatty acids are contained, the proportion of triglycerides is advantageously 0.05 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.08 to 1.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. If triisostearin is contained, the proportion of triisostearin is advantageously 0.05 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.08 to 1.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0069] It is also advantageous to contain one or more fatty alcohols having 16 to 24 carbon atoms, wherein the total proportion of these fatty alcohols is 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. In particular, cetearyl alcohol is contained in a proportion of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0070] Furthermore, it has been found to be advantageous if the emulsion contains one or more fatty acids having 14 to 24 carbon atoms, their proportion being advantageously 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 1.8 to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0071] Furthermore, the emulsion according to the invention is preferably characterized in that it contains glycerol in a proportion of 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0072] It is also advantageous within the meaning of the invention if the emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0073] If the emulsion contains benzyl alcohol, it is preferred that the proportion of benzyl alcohol is from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0074] If the emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, it is preferred that the total proportion of phenoxyethanol is from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0075] If the emulsion contains ethylhexylglycerol, it is preferred that the proportion of ethylhexylglycerol is from 0.1% to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0076] Furthermore, advantageously, embodiments of the invention are characterized in that they contain ethanol. If the emulsion contains ethanol, the proportion of ethanol is preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 1.5% to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0077] Last but not least, an advantageous embodiment according to the invention is characterized in that the emulsion contains one or more active substances selected from the following group of compounds: glycyrrhetinic acid, urea, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavones, glycerol glucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamide, vitamin A palmitate, panthenol, licoricechalcone A, 4-butylresorcinol, N-[(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl]isobutyramide, honokiol and magnolol (also as a component of magnolia extract), hyaluronic acid and / or silymarin (milk thistle extract).

[0078] Furthermore, emulsions advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that they contain water in a proportion of 60% to 95% by weight, preferably 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0079] Furthermore, advantageous emulsions according to the invention have a viscosity of 9000 to 30000 mPa·s, advantageously 12000 to 20000 mPa·s 24 hours after production. If viscosity is mentioned in the present disclosure, all values ​​refer to measurements carried out at 25° C. in a 150 ml crimped glass using a Rheomat R123 from proRheo GmbH. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body that rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a given rotational speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the rotational speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. Measuring body No. 2 (article number 200 0192) was used as the measuring body with a speed range of 62.5 min / min. -1 All viscosity measurements were always performed 24 hours after emulsion production. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0080] Comparative Tests and Examples

[0081] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise indicated, all amounts, ratios and percentages are based on weight and total amount or the total weight of the formulation.

[0082] The following table with Examples 1 to 8 shows different formulations. Example 1 is an example not according to the invention, which is a common formulation with an acrylate-based polymer carbomer. The formulation does not have a liquid crystal structure. After storage for 8 months at 40° C. and 45° C., the formulation is stable to water precipitation. In addition, the formulation has an attractive consistency even at an elevated temperature of 45° C.

[0083] As shown in non-inventive Examples 2 to 4, replacing the acrylate-based polymer with a biopolymer leads to formulations that are insufficiently stable to water precipitation and also have a lower consistency at 45° C. These examples do not exhibit a liquid crystal structure.

[0084] Examples 5 to 7 are examples according to the invention. They have liquid crystal structures which can be detected by polarized light optical microscopy. Surprisingly, it was found that the presence of liquid crystal structures leads to a stabilization of the formulations, thereby preventing water precipitation at elevated temperatures during storage for 8 months. In addition, surprisingly, a significantly increased consistency at 45° C. can be detected. Thus, the disadvantages resulting from the abandonment of acrylate-containing polymers are alleviated by the present invention.

[0085] The consistency measurement was carried out by the method described in DE 2909087 C2.

[0086] Under defined conditions (at a uniform speed and a constant maximum immersion depth), an 8 mm polyamide ball is passed once through the test emulsion as a measuring instrument along a circular path. The braking force, which depends on the consistency of the cream, is measured using a leaf spring test rig, to whose detector the ball is connected. Since the ball passes through each area of ​​the cream only once, influencing factors such as thixotropy and possible sliding flow effects are largely avoided. The rotational speed of the rotating shaft is set to 10 rpm. Here, the maximum braking force acting on the ball is determined. It is essential that the ball is immersed equally deep and wide in all measurements. The values ​​determined are scale values, where one scale value corresponds to 1 cN. The scale values ​​are given in the table with the formulations. The sample temperature is 45°C.

[0087] In addition, as shown in the table below, the examples were evaluated for appearance. In addition, the storage modulus G' (Storage Module G') of formulation example 1, example 2 and example 6 was determined. The storage modulus provides information about the amount of structure present in the material. It represents the energy stored in the elastic structure of the sample.

[0088] Select the following measurement parameters:

[0089] Instrument: ARES 6

[0090] Method: ERW (softening, dynamic temperature ramp)

[0091] Temperature: 20℃ to 80℃, 2℃ / min

[0092] Geometry: Parallel plates, 50 mm and 1.0 mm gap

[0093] Frequency: 100rad s-1

[0094] The measurement results at 20℃ and 45℃ are shown in the following table:

[0095]

[0096] Comparing the storage modulus of each sample at 20°C and 45°C, it is found that the amount of storage modulus v of Example 6 at 45°C remains similar (about 40%) compared to the value at 20°C. This is comparable to the value of Example 1, which contains an acrylate-containing polymer. Example 2 does not maintain the same value as Example 1 at 45°C.

[0097]

[0098]

[0099] Other embodiments:

[0100]

[0101]

Claims

1. A cosmetic emulsion free of acrylates, comprising a) an emulsifier system that forms a liquid crystal network in an emulsion, wherein the emulsifier system comprises a. at least one fatty alcohol glucoside; and b. Myristyl alcohol b) at least one polysaccharide; and c) at least one wax component having a melting point below 43°C.

2. The emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that The emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.

3. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The fatty alcohol glucoside is chosen from the group of substances with the INCI names: Arachidyl Glucoside; C10-16 Alkyl Glucoside; C12-18 Alkyl Glucoside; C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside; Cocoyl Glucoside; C9-11 Alkyl Glucoside; Capryl / Capryl Glucoside; Capryl Glucoside; Cetearyl Glucoside; Decyl Glucoside; Isostearyl Glucoside; Lauryl Glucoside; Myristyl Glucoside and / or Undecyl Glucoside.

4. The emulsion according to claim 3, characterized in that Contains cetearyl glucoside, octyl glucoside, octyl / decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and myristyl glucoside, among which cetearyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

5. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The weight proportion of all fatty alcohol glucosides in the emulsion is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 3.5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.2 to 2.2% by weight, each relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

6. The emulsion according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that The proportion of cetearyl glucoside is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 3.5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1.2 to 2.2% by weight, in each case relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

7. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The emulsifier system comprises sorbitan stearate, the total proportion of sorbitan stearate advantageously being from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 1.0% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

8. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The emulsifier system comprises disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, wherein advantageously the total proportion of disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate is 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 0.2% by weight, in particular 0.04 to 0.10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

9. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The emulsifier system comprises glyceryl stearate, wherein the total proportion of glyceryl stearate is advantageously from 0.1 to 1.8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

10. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The proportion of myristyl alcohol is 0.2 to 6.5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 3.0 to 4.0% by weight, in each case relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

11. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The liquid crystal structure in the emulsion exists in a spherical structure.

12. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharide gum, starch and / or cellulose.

13. The emulsion according to claim 12, characterized in that The polysaccharide includes corn starch, sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, tapioca starch, modified potato starch and / or distarch phosphate, among which hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and distarch phosphate are preferred, and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is particularly preferred.

14. The emulsion according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that The proportion of starch in the emulsion is 0.05 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

15. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The total content of wax components having a melting point in the range of 25° C. to 43° C. is 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably 2.2 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

Images