Natural cationic conditioner as well as preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly discloses a natural cationic conditioner as well as a preparation method and application thereof. The natural cationic conditioner is prepared from the following components in parts by mass: 5-10 parts of a natural emulsifier, 0.1-1 part of stearic acid, 15-20 parts of natural grease, 0.5-1 part of phytosphingosine, 0.5-2 parts of basic amino acid, 1-5 parts of glycerol, 0.8 part of sodium benzoate and the balance of water, wherein the unit mass of the natural cationic conditioner is 100 parts; the hair conditioner with 100% natural source is obtained by utilizing the characteristic that phytosphingosine and basic amino acid are positive ions in a weakly acidic water aqua; the natural cationic conditioner disclosed by the invention is simple in preparation steps, stable in performance and easy to apply; in the embodiment of the invention, we find that when the natural cationic conditioner provided by the invention is applied to a shampoo formula, the natural cationic conditioner is mild and non-irritating, the foam and cleaning performance of a surface activity system are not influenced, the combability and antistatic performance of hair are improved, and the hair is soft, not frizzy and glossy.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a natural cationic conditioning agent and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Conditioners in shampoo are an indispensable part of the formula, which can make hair smooth and smooth and increase gloss. Traditional conditioners are mainly cationic surfactants (quaternary ammonium salts), water-soluble cationic polymers, polysiloxanes, excipients, proteins, etc. Substances containing cationic groups can dissociate into positively charged ions in aqueous solution, forming electrostatic attraction with the negatively charged part of the hair keratin structure, so that the fat base of the cationic surfactant is deposited on the hair to achieve a conditioning effect. Cationic substances can also reduce the accumulation of static electricity in the hair and improve combing properties.

[0003] However, most of the cationic conditioners in current products are not 100% natural in origin, because the cationic part of these conditioners is chemically modified. However, with the development of the market and the improvement of consumer demands, raw materials with high natural content are more popular. Therefore, it is necessary to seek hair conditioners with high natural content. Patent CN114605570A provides a cationic polymer with 100% natural origin, and patent CN118384079A explores the conditioning properties of natural plant-derived grapefruit seed extract on hair. However, there is no research on small molecules with clear structures as natural hair conditioners.

[0004] Phytosphingosine is a substance that exists naturally in the human body and is an important component of cell membranes. It has strong skin permeability and has anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. The current industrial production method is microbial fermentation. The pKb of phytosphingosine is about 9, and it can show positive charge in the weakly acidic physiological environment of the skin. Phytosphingosine has been proven to have positive charge characteristics and is useful in the study of skin preparations, such as patents CN106389168A and CN202410686051.8, but this property has not yet been applied to research on hair conditioning. Patent CN202110934797.2 uses phytosphingosine as one of the ingredients of hair conditioning oils, but does not explain the role of its positive charge characteristics in hair conditioning, nor does it describe the specific dissolution process of phytosphingosine. Summary of the invention

[0005] The present invention provides a natural cationic hair conditioner and a preparation method and application thereof. The hair conditioner with 100% natural origin is obtained by utilizing the cationic property of phytosphingosine and alkaline amino acids in weakly acidic aqueous solution. The preparation process of the invention is simple, the performance is stable and the hair conditioner is easy to use.

[0006] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0007] A natural cationic conditioning agent, calculated on a unit weight of 100 parts, is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 1 to 20 parts of a natural emulsifier, 0.01 to 5 parts of stearic acid, 5 to 30 parts of natural oils and fats, 0.01 to 2 parts of phytosphingosine, 0.01 to 10 parts of basic amino acids, 1 to 5 parts of glycerol, 0.8 parts of sodium benzoate and the balance of water.

[0008] Preferably, the conditioner is composed of the following components in parts by mass: 1 to 10 parts of natural emulsifier, 0.1 to 2 parts of stearic acid, 10 to 30 parts of natural oil, 0.1 to 2 parts of phytosphingosine, 0.1 to 5 parts of basic amino acid, 1 to 5 parts of glycerol, 0.8 parts of sodium benzoate and the remainder of water.

[0009] Preferably, the conditioner is composed of the following components in parts by mass: 5-10 parts of natural emulsifier, 0.1-1 parts of stearic acid, 15-20 parts of natural oil, 0.5-1 parts of phytosphingosine, 0.5-2 parts of basic amino acid, 1-5 parts of glycerol, 0.8 parts of sodium benzoate and the remainder of water.

[0010] In the above-mentioned conditioning agent, the natural emulsifier contains cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate SE;

[0011] The natural oil contains caprylic / capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol in a weight ratio of 1:1;

[0012] The basic amino acid is one or more of L-arginine, L-lysine, and L-histidine;

[0013] The pH value of the natural cationic conditioning agent is 5.5-6.5.

[0014] The method for preparing the above-mentioned natural cationic composition is characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

[0015] S1: Weigh a formulated amount of phytosphingosine and add it to a portion of natural oils and fats, heat to 95°C until completely dissolved, then add another portion of natural oils and fats;

[0016] S2: Add natural emulsifier and stearic acid to S1 until they are completely dissolved to form a uniform liquid;

[0017] S3: Mix a certain amount of water and glycerin evenly and heat to 80°C;

[0018] S4: Mix S3 and S2, homogenize 5 times, 1 min each time, at a speed of 10000 rpm;

[0019] S5: Cool the material to 45°C, add alkaline amino acid aqueous solution and sodium benzoate aqueous solution respectively, stir evenly, and finally adjust the pH of the system to 5.5-6.5.

[0020] Preferably, in the above preparation method, in step S1, phytosphingosine is first added to octyldodecanol, heated to 95° C. until completely dissolved, and then caprylic / capric triglyceride is added.

[0021] The present invention also discloses the use of the natural cationic conditioning agent in preparing daily chemical products for hair care. Preferably, the daily chemical product is shampoo.

[0022] Beneficial effects: The present invention provides a natural cationic conditioning agent and a preparation method and application thereof. Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following effects:

[0023] (1) The natural cationic conditioning agent prepared by the present invention is 100% natural in origin, conforms to the current market trend, and has stable performance and is easy to use;

[0024] (2) The natural cationic conditioning agent prepared by the present invention has a simple preparation process, and the conditioning agent is an emulsion with stable properties and no solid precipitation;

[0025] (3) The natural cationic conditioning agent prepared by the present invention is used in the shampoo formula, which is mild and non-irritating and does not affect the foam and cleaning performance of the surfactant system. Basic amino acids include lysine, arginine, and histidine, and their isoelectric points are all greater than 7, and they can show positive charge properties in neutral and weakly acidic aqueous solutions. The pKb of phytosphingosine is about 9, and it can also show positive charge properties in the weakly acidic skin physiological environment. The present invention utilizes the cationic properties of phytosphingosine and basic amino acids in weakly acidic aqueous solutions to improve the combing and antistatic properties of hair, making the hair smooth and shiny. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0026] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are described clearly and completely below in conjunction with specific embodiments:

[0027] The main experimental materials and sources used:

[0028]

[0029] The main experimental instruments used:

[0030] Constant temperature air drying oven; constant temperature water bath; constant temperature incubator; high shear average emulsifier; mixer; tensile tester; resistance meter; real human hair bundle, etc.

[0031] Examples 1-5, Comparative Examples 1-4 and Blank Examples

[0032] The addition amounts of the natural cationic conditioning agents of Examples 1-5 are shown in Table 1. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

[0033] S1: Weigh the formulated amount of phytosphingosine in octyldodecanol, heat to 95°C until completely dissolved, then add GTCC (caprylic / capric triglyceride);

[0034] S2: Add emulsifier M68 (cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol) and stearic acid to S1 until they are completely dissolved to form a uniform liquid;

[0035] S3: Mix a certain amount of water and glycerin evenly and heat to 80°C;

[0036] S4: Mix S3 and S2, homogenize 5 times, 1 min each time, at a speed of 10000 rpm;

[0037] S5: Cool the material to 45°C, add L-arginine, L-lysine, L-histidine aqueous solution and sodium benzoate aqueous solution respectively, stir evenly, and finally adjust the system pH to 5.5-6.5.

[0038] Comparative Example

[0039] The preparation method of Comparative Example 1 is substantially the same as that of Examples 1-5, and finally the pH of the system is adjusted to 8.0-9.0.

[0040] The preparation method of Comparative Example 2 is basically the same as that of Examples 1-5, wherein the addition ratio of the two natural oils is changed to octyl dodecanol: GTCC = 5:13.

[0041] The preparation method of Comparative Example 3 is substantially the same as that of Examples 1-5, wherein the amount of phytosphingosine added is 0.

[0042] The preparation method of Comparative Example 4 is substantially the same as that of Examples 1-5, wherein the amount of basic amino acid added is 0.

[0043] Blank example

[0044] The preparation method of the blank example is basically the same as that of Example 1-5, wherein the added amount of phytosphingosine and basic amino acid is 0.

[0045] Table 1 Percentage of the content of each raw material component in Examples 1-5, Comparative Examples 1-4 and Blank Examples

[0046]

[0047] Test Example 1

[0048] Stability Evaluation of Natural Cationic Conditioners

[0049] Refer to the methods in T / SHFCA 002-2021 "Guidelines for Cosmetic Stability Testing" to evaluate the stability of natural cationic conditioning agents.

[0050] 1. Test items and operation steps

[0051] 1.1 Influencing factors test

[0052] 1.1.1 High temperature stability

[0053] Place the sample in a sealed clean container, and then place it in a constant temperature incubator pre-adjusted to (45℃±2℃) for 30 days. Take samples on the 5th, 10th, 20th and 30th days. After the test, return to room temperature and observe the odor, color, precipitation and stratification, etc.

[0054] 1.1.2 Temperature stability

[0055] Place the sample in a sealed clean container, then place it in a constant temperature incubator pre-adjusted to (45℃±2℃), take it out after 24 hours, move it into a refrigerator pre-adjusted to (-5℃±2℃) and store it for 24 hours, then take it out, move it into a constant temperature incubator (40℃±2℃) and store it for 24 hours, then take it out again and place it in a refrigerator (-5℃±2℃) and store it for 24 hours. Repeat this cycle 5-7 times. After the test, return to room temperature and observe the smell, color, presence of precipitation and stratification, etc.

[0056] 1.2 Accelerated stability test

[0057] The samples were placed in a constant temperature and humidity chamber and tested for 6 months at 40℃±2℃ and 75%±5% relative humidity. The samples were tested at at least 4 time points (e.g. 1, 2, 3, 6m), and then returned to room temperature and compared with 0m to observe the smell, color, and the presence of precipitation and stratification.

[0058] 1.3 Long-term stability test

[0059] The samples were placed in a constant temperature and humidity chamber and tested for 24 months at 25℃±2℃ and 60%±10% relative humidity. Samples were taken at 3, 6, 9, 12, 18, and 24m, returned to room temperature, and compared with 0m to observe odor, color, and the presence of precipitation and stratification.

[0060] 2. Test results

[0061] The results of the stability evaluation test of natural cationic conditioning agents are shown in Table 2.

[0062] Table 2 Stability evaluation test results of natural cationic conditioning agents

[0063]

[0064]

[0065] From the above results, it can be seen that Examples 1-5, Comparative Examples 1, 3, 4 and the blank example did not have any abnormalities in each stability evaluation test and had good stability. A small amount of solid precipitation occurred in Comparative Example 2 in the long-term stability experiment, which may be due to the addition ratio of oil. The dispersibility and solubility of phytosphingosine in octyldodecanol are better. Comparative Example 2 is a sample with a reduced amount of octyldodecanol added, which leads to a decrease in the solubility of phytosphingosine in the system and precipitation.

[0066] Test Example 2

[0067] Evaluation of Combability of Shampoo Containing Natural Cationic Conditioners

[0068] The natural cationic conditioning agents of each embodiment, comparative example and blank example were added to the shampoo formula to examine the effect of the samples on the combing performance of hair. Commonly used hair conditioning agents on the market were selected for comparison to examine the shampoo formula as shown in Table 3.

[0069] Table 3 Shampoo formula containing natural cationic conditioning agents

[0070]

[0071]

[0072] The effect of each shampoo sample on hair combing performance was tested using a tensile tester.

[0073] 1. Materials and Reagents

[0074] Tensile tester, constant temperature and humidity incubator, human hair bundles, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS).

[0075] 2. Operation method

[0076] 2.1 Hair treatment

[0077] Select a human hair bundle of 30cm in length and 35g in weight, wet the hair bundle with tap water, take 5mL of 10% SLS aqueous solution with a syringe, and apply 1.0g to each hair bundle. Apply it to the front and back of the hair bundle, rub it evenly, rinse it with tap water, and get a clean hair bundle. Take another 5mL of shampoo sample and treat the hair with the same method as above, then hang the hair bundle on the combing machine for wet combing performance test. Test each group of hair 3 times, and test each sample twice in parallel. Remove the hair bundle and dry it at a temperature of 25℃ and a humidity of 60%. Use the same method as above to test the dry combing performance.

[0078] 2.2 Determination steps

[0079] Use a plastic comb to comb the hair first, then fix the hair sample to be tested with a suitable clamp, place the hair bundle naturally in the middle of the comb, complete the calibration and zeroing of the instrument, start testing the hair bundle, stretch the hair bundle at a speed of 300mm / min, and move 250mm.

[0080] 3. Test results

[0081] The results of combing performance test of hair bundles treated with each shampoo sample are shown in Table 4.

[0082] Table 4 Combing performance test results of hair bundles treated with shampoo samples

[0083]

[0084] It can be seen from the above results that the shampoo samples added with Examples 1-5 all have good wet and dry combing properties. Compared with the commonly used conditioners on the market (Samples 11 and 12), the natural cationic conditioners containing phytosphingosine and basic amino acids (Examples 1-5) have excellent hair conditioning properties, can effectively prevent hair tangles, dryness, and difficulty in combing, and can be used in shampoo and hair care products to enhance conditioning.

[0085] However, sample 6, to which comparative example 1 is added as a conditioning agent, does not improve the wet and dry combing performance of the hair, proving that the system pH is an important condition for phytosphingosine and basic amino acids to exert cationic properties. When the environmental pH is greater than their isoelectric points, these two substances will not exhibit positive charge characteristics, and therefore do not have hair conditioning properties. When comparative example 2 is added as a conditioning agent, the solubility of phytosphingosine decreases due to the low amount of octyl dodecanol added, so the conditioning performance decreases. When comparative examples 3 and 4 are added as conditioning agents, since they contain only one cationic substance, the conditioning performance is lower than that of examples 1-5.

[0086] Test Example 3

[0087] Evaluation of the antistatic properties of shampoos containing natural conditioning agents

[0088] The antistatic properties of shampoo containing natural cationic conditioners were evaluated with reference to the methods of GB / T 14342-2015 "Test method for specific electrical resistivity of chemical staple fibers" and GB / T16801-2013 "Determination of antistatic properties of fabric conditioners".

[0089] 1. Materials and Reagents

[0090] Constant temperature and humidity incubator, human hair bundle, resistance meter

[0091] 2. Test operation

[0092] 2.1 Hair treatment

[0093] Select a 30cm long, 35g human hair bundle, wet the hair bundle with tap water, use a syringe to take 5mL of 10% SLS aqueous solution, and apply 1.0g to each hair bundle. Apply it to the front and back of the hair bundle, rub it evenly, rinse it with tap water, and get a clean hair bundle, which is recorded as a blank sample. Take 5mL of shampoo sample and treat the hair with the same method as above, then remove the hair bundle, dry it at a temperature of 25℃ and a humidity of 60% for later use, and record it as the sample to be tested.

[0094] 2.2 Determination steps

[0095] After adjusting the humidity, preheat the resistance meter, set the measurement conversion switch knob to the surface resistance R, place the sample to be tested and the blank sample on the high-voltage electrode one by one with tweezers, put the protective electrode and the measuring electrode in place, and cover the shielding cover.

[0096] After selecting the measurement voltage of 250V, click the measurement button, the display will show the sample resistance value, and record the reading after it stabilizes. After the sample test is completed, click the "Discharge" button to discharge for about 1 minute and then reset. Calculate the logarithmic value of the surface specific resistance drop (Δρ s ).

[0097] 3. Experimental results

[0098] The results of the antistatic properties of the hair bundles treated with each shampoo sample are shown in Table 5.

[0099] Table 5 Antistatic performance test results of shampoo containing natural cationic conditioner

[0100]

[0101]

[0102] Logarithm of surface specific resistance drop (Δρ s ) is larger, indicating that the antistatic performance is better. From the above results, it can be seen that compared with the commonly used cationic conditioning agents (samples 11 and 12) on the market, the surface specific resistance drop logarithm of Examples 1-5 is slightly smaller, but the surface specific resistance logarithm of the blank example (sample 10) and the alkaline system comparative example 1 (sample 6) is larger, indicating that phytosphingosine and alkaline amino acid conditioning agents have a certain degree of antistatic performance under weakly acidic conditions, and can make hair soft and smooth when used in shampoo and hair care products, and improve the dry and frizzy phenomenon.

[0103] It can be seen from the above embodiments and experimental examples that the natural cationic conditioner prepared by the present invention has a simple preparation process, the conditioner is an emulsion, has stable properties, and has no solid precipitation; the natural cationic conditioner prepared by the present invention is applied to shampoo formula, is mild and non-irritating, does not affect the foam and cleaning performance of the surfactant system, improves the combing and antistatic properties of the hair, makes the hair soft, not frizzy, and has a glossy appearance.

[0104] The above are only preferred embodiments of the present invention. It is obvious to those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the details of the above exemplary embodiments, and the present invention can be implemented in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or basic characteristics of the present invention. The embodiments should be regarded as exemplary and non-restrictive. The scope of the present invention is limited by the appended claims rather than the above description, and it is intended that all changes that fall within the meaning and scope of the equivalent elements of the claims are included in the present invention.

Claims

1. A natural cationic conditioning agent, characterized in that: Calculated on a unit mass of 100 parts, the conditioner is composed of the following components in parts by mass: 1 to 20 parts of natural emulsifier, 0.01 to 5 parts of stearic acid, 5 to 30 parts of natural oil, 0.01 to 2 parts of phytosphingosine, 0.01 to 10 parts of basic amino acids, 1 to 5 parts of glycerol, 0.8 parts of sodium benzoate and the remainder of water.

2. The natural cationic conditioning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that Calculated on a unit mass of 100 parts, the conditioner is composed of the following components in parts by mass: 1 to 10 parts of natural emulsifier, 0.1 to 2 parts of stearic acid, 10 to 30 parts of natural oils and fats, 0.1 to 2 parts of phytosphingosine, 0.1 to 5 parts of basic amino acids, 1 to 5 parts of glycerol, 0.8 parts of sodium benzoate and the remainder of water.

3. The natural cationic conditioning agent according to claim 2, characterized in that Calculated on a unit mass of 100 parts, the conditioner is composed of the following components in parts by mass: 5 to 10 parts of natural emulsifier, 0.1 to 1 part of stearic acid, 15 to 20 parts of natural oil, 0.5 to 1 part of phytosphingosine, 0.5 to 2 parts of basic amino acid, 1 to 5 parts of glycerol, 0.8 part of sodium benzoate and the remainder of water.

4. The natural cationic conditioning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that The natural emulsifier contains cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate SE.

5. The natural cationic conditioning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that The natural oil contains caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride and octyldodecanol, and the weight ratio of the two is 1:

1.

6. The natural cationic conditioning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that The basic amino acid is one or more of L-arginine, L-lysine and L-histidine.

7. The natural cationic conditioning agent according to claim 1, characterized in that The pH of the conditioner is 5.5-6.

5.

8. The method for preparing the natural cationic conditioning agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1: Weigh a formulated amount of phytosphingosine and add it to a portion of natural oils and fats, heat to 95°C until completely dissolved, then add another portion of natural oils and fats; S2: Add natural emulsifier and stearic acid to S1 until they are completely dissolved to form a uniform liquid; S3: Mix a certain amount of water and glycerin evenly and heat to 80°C; S4: Mix the products of S3 and S2 and homogenize them 5 times, 1 min each time, at a speed of 10000 rpm; S5: Cool the material obtained in S4 to 45°C, add alkaline amino acid aqueous solution and sodium benzoate aqueous solution respectively, stir evenly, and finally adjust the pH of the system to 5.5-6.5 to obtain a natural cationic conditioner.

9. The method for preparing the natural cationic conditioning agent according to claim 8, characterized in that: In the step S1, phytosphingosine is first added to octyldodecanol, heated to 95° C. until completely dissolved, and then caprylic / capric triglyceride is added.

10. Use of the natural cationic conditioning agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in the preparation of daily chemical products for hair care.

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