Emulsion having dialkyl carbonate, coconut oil ester, volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups

Abstract

The present application relates to a silicone-free water-in-oil emulsion comprising: A) a continuous oil phase comprising: i) at least one C12-C22 dialkyl carbonate; and ii) at least one mixture of a C8-C10 carboxylic acid and an ester of a fatty alcohol derived from coconut oil; and iii) at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; and B) an aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase; c) at least one emulsified non-ionic surfactant, which is a polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate having the following INCI name containing 30 mol of ethylenoxy groups: PEG-30 polyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate and polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate; and D) at least one powdered colorant selected from the group consisting of:-a mineral pigment selected from the group consisting of coated or uncoated titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof,-an organic pigment,-a pearling agent, and mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that the method comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The object of the present invention is to provide for the field of care and / or make-up of keratin materials, in particular the skin, a novel composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (also called inverse emulsion) which is very particularly advantageous both in terms of its technical performance qualities and in terms of the organoleptic sensations it offers to the user when it is applied to these keratin materials and in particular to the skin.

[0002] Cosmetic compositions, such as foundations, are often used to give the skin an aesthetic color, but also to enhance the beauty of irregular skin by making it possible to hide marks and dyschromias, reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and mask spots and acne scars; in this respect, coverage is one of the main properties sought. In the cosmetics sector, water-in-oil emulsions (also called inverse emulsions) are particularly popular with consumers in the field of foundations, sunscreens or moisturizers for their cosmetic properties, in particular for their comfort during application, which is reflected in particular by the absence or greatly reduced tightness, dryness and / or stickiness and / or greasy effects compared to "direct" oil-in-water emulsions. These aforementioned inverse emulsions also make it possible to contain large amounts of fillers and / or pigments and to obtain good homogeneity during application compared to direct emulsions. However, such compositions exhibit the disadvantage of being generally difficult to stabilize.

[0003] Consumers are also increasingly looking for cosmetic products that are environmentally friendly. It is known that silicones present in many cosmetic compositions on the cosmetic market are not entirely satisfactory from an environmental point of view.

[0004] There is still a need to find new formulations for caring for and / or making up keratin fibers in the form of silicone-free water-in-oil emulsions having good covering properties to correct imperfections and having an even result, good sensory properties such as easy spreading, brightness, softness, non-greasy effect, non-tacky effect of the deposit after drying, good storage stability in terms of temperature and better environmental compatibility.

[0005] In the course of their research, the Applicant has surprisingly found that this object can be achieved with a composition in the form of a silicone-free water-in-oil emulsion comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0006] A) a continuous oil phase comprising:

[0007] i) at least one carbonate C 12 -C 22 dialkyl esters; and

[0008] ii) C8-C10 at least one mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil; and

[0009] iii) at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; and

[0010] B) an aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, and

[0011] C) at least one emulsifying nonionic surfactant which is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups having the following INCI name: PEG-30 polyhydroxystearate; and

[0012] D) at least one powdered colorant selected from:

[0013] - mineral pigments chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof,

[0014] - organic pigments,

[0015] - Pearlescent agent,

[0016] and mixtures thereof.

[0017] This discovery forms the basis of the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0018] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the invention relates to a silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0019] A) a continuous oil phase comprising:

[0020] i) at least one carbonate C 12 -C 22 dialkyl esters; and

[0021] ii) C8-C 10 at least one mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil; and

[0022] iii) at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; and

[0023] B) an aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, and

[0024] C) at least one emulsifying nonionic surfactant which is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups having the following INCI name: PEG-30 polyhydroxystearate; and

[0025] D) at least one powdered colorant selected from:

[0026] - mineral pigments chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof,

[0027] - organic pigments,

[0028] - Pearlescent agent,

[0029] and mixtures thereof.

[0030] The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

[0031] definition

[0032] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is to be understood as meaning in particular the skin (body, face, area around the eyes), lips, eyelashes and eyebrows. More particularly, the term "keratin material" is to be understood as meaning the skin.

[0033] The term "physiologically acceptable" is intended to mean compatible with the skin and / or skin appendages, having a pleasing color, odor and feel and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tightness) that would tend to deter consumers from using the composition.

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-in-oil emulsion" (also called inverse emulsion) is understood to indicate any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so that a macroscopically homogeneous mixture is observed to the naked eye.

[0035] The term "silicone" is intended to mean any compound formed from a silicon-oxygen chain - Si-O-Si-O-Si-O, wherein organic groups are attached to the organic silicon atoms.

[0036] The term "silicone-free composition" is understood to mean any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight of silicone compounds, indeed even less than 0.5% by weight, indeed even less than 0.1% by weight, indeed even no silicone compounds, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Continuous oil phase

[0038] The composition according to the invention comprises a continuous oily phase containing

[0039] i) at least one carbonate C 12 -C 22 dialkyl esters; and

[0040] ii) C8-C10 at least one mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil (INCI name: Coconut Alcohol); and

[0041] iii) at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0042] The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0043] The composition of the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content ranging from 15% to 50% by weight and in particular from 25% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] C12-C22 dialkyl carbonate

[0045] The oil phase of the composition according to the invention comprises i) at least one carbonate of formula R1COOR2 12 -C 22 Dialkyl esters wherein R1 and R2 independently represent straight or branched chain alkyl groups containing from 1 to 16 atoms such that the total number of carbon atoms present in the R1 and R2 groups is from 12 to 22.

[0046] In carbonic acid C 12 -C 22 Among the dialkyl esters, mention may be made of

[0047] -Di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate (C 17 ), such as those marketed by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH under the trade name Tegosoft Products sold;

[0048] -Dicaprylyl carbonate (C 17 ), such as Cetiol (BASF Corporation) and OriStar Products sold by (Orient Stars LLC);

[0049] -Carbonate C 14 -C 15 Mixtures of dialkyl esters (INCI name: C14-C15 dialkyl carbonates), such as those marketed by Enichem SpA under the trade name Lialcarb and OriStar C14-15 manufactured by Orient Stars LLC under the trade name OriStar C14-15 Products sold;

[0050] -Dipropylheptyl carbonate (C 21 ), such as by BASF under the trade name Cetiol 4 Products for sale.

[0051] According to a particularly preferred form, the dialkyl carbonate is dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0052] The dialkyl carbonate i) is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] C8-C 10 Esters of carboxylic acids and mixtures of alcohols derived from coconut oil

[0054] The oil phase of the composition according to the invention comprises ii) C8-C 10 At least one mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil (INCI name: Coconut Alcohol).

[0055] As an example, mention may be made of the mixture of esters of caprylic acid (C8) and coconut fatty alcohol, which has the INCI name Coco-caprylate (having the formula

[0056] [Chemical formula 1]

[0057]

[0058] Wherein R represents the residue of coconut oil fatty alcohol. It can be obtained from BASF under the trade name Cetiol Sale.

[0059] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C 10 ) and esters of coconut fatty alcohol, which has the INCI name Coconut Caprylate / Caprate. It can be sold under the following trade names

[0060] -AEC (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd);

[0061] -Captex (Abitec Corporation);

[0062] -Cetiol C Cetiol (BASF Corporation);

[0063] -Cremer COOR Coco (IOI Oleochemical Co., Ltd. (IOIOleo GmbH));

[0064] -Dub 810 (Stearineries Dubois et fils);

[0065] -Lanol (SEPPIC):

[0066] -Pelemol (Phoenix Chemical Inc);

[0067] - and Unitolate (Universal Presery-A-Chem Inc.).

[0068] C8-C 10 The mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil ii) is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0070] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises iv) at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0071] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean an oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functions.

[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that is capable of volatilizing in less than one hour of contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at ambient temperature, notably having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0073] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils iv) that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-C 16 Alkane.

[0074] C8-C as a source of oil 16Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), mention may be made of, for example, isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane. or Oil for sale.

[0075] We can also mention branched C8-C 16 Esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, notably those sold by Shell under the name Shell The ones that are sold.

[0076] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from volatile linear alkanes containing from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0077] As examples of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 of Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols obtained per se from coconut oil or palm oil.

[0078] As a straight chain C6-C 14 As examples of alkanes, there may be mentioned n-hexane (C6), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), n-tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Notably, mention may be made of the companies listed under the respective indexes Parafol and Parafol n-Dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and mixtures thereof.

[0080] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. It is possible to use in particular the solvent produced by the company Biosynthis under the reference number Vegelight Sold as a 85 / 15 weight ratio dodecane / tetradecane mixture.

[0081] According to yet another embodiment, a volatile straight chain C9-C 12Mixtures of alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 alkanes, such as those marketed by the company Biosynthis under the index Vegelight Products for sale.

[0082] According to yet another embodiment, n-undecane (C 2004) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Corning is used. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) and Cetiol Products for sale.

[0083] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, and more particularly isododecane.

[0084] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil i) is preferably present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] A polyethylene glycol containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups Dihydroxy Stearate Emulsifying Nonionic Surfactant Agent

[0086] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying nonionic surfactant which is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups.

[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsifying surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is to say a compound showing two parts of different polarity. Typically, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase). The other part is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, for the preparation of W / O emulsions, HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8. The HLB of the surfactant used according to the present invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0088] The HLB of the emulsifying nonionic surfactant of polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide is less than 8.

[0089] The fatty acid ester of the polymer is polyhydroxylated. In particular, the polymer is a block polymer comprising a poly(hydroxylated ester) block and a polyoxyethylenated block, preferably a block polymer having an ABA structure.

[0090] An emulsifying nonionic surfactant which is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide and which is particularly suitable for preparing the compositions of the invention is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide having the following INCI name: PEG-30 polyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold by Croda under the trade reference Cithrol DPHS-SO-(MV).

[0091] The emulsifying nonionic surfactant which is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups is preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Water Phase

[0093] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients, such as a water-soluble solvent.

[0094] Water suitable for the present invention may be floral water such as cornflower water, and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water, and / or thermal water.

[0095] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be present in the aqueous phase, mention may be made of C2-C4 monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or butanol. Mention may also be made of polyols, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerol, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0096] The composition according to the invention may comprise a content of water varying from 20% to 50% and even more preferentially from 30% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Powdered colorant

[0098] According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one powdered colorant selected from:

[0099] - mineral pigments chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof,

[0100] - organic pigments,

[0101] - Pearlescent agent,

[0102] and mixtures thereof.

[0103] The powdered colorant may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

[0104] The term "pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in aqueous media and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored and may be mineral and / or organic.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment, the mineral pigments used according to the invention are chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] The term "mineral pigment" is understood to mean any pigment which meets the definition of Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter "Pigments, inorganic".

[0107] The size of the pigments used in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to

[0108] 5 μm and more preferably in the range from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0109] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigment exhibits a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0110] These sizes were obtained using a commercial MasterSizer from Malvern. The particle size analyzer measures by static light scattering, which makes it possible to determine the size distribution of all particles over a wide range (which can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm). The data are processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is most applicable to size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine the "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0111] D

[50] represents the largest dimension present at 50% by volume of the particles.

[0112] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating; the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0113] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or one of its salts, which can contain an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl.

[0115] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. Salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative, which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoylglutamate, such as, for example, aluminium stearoylglutamate. As an example of a pigment treated with aluminium stearoylglutamate, mention may be made of the pigment produced by Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Titanium dioxide pigments for sale as well as black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate according to the invention. As an example of a pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (ITT), mention may be made of the product sold by the company Kobo under the trade name (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) sold as those.

[0117] The pigments which can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0118] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0119] The organic pigments may be selected, for example, from the following: carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 red pigments included in the color index, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0120] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments may in particular consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder providing for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0121] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" is understood to mean an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0122] The inorganic substrate onto which the dye is adsorbed is, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0123] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal red. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0124] As example of a lake, mention may be made of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0125] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent colorant of mineral pigment type, chosen in particular from metal oxides, and more particularly from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The pearlescent agent may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica covered with titanium or covered with bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica with iron oxide, in particular with iron blue or chromium oxide, or with organic pigments of the abovementioned type; and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0127] Preferably, the pulverulent colorant is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight and more particularly from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Cosmetic composition

[0129] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a composition as defined above in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0130] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition has to be applied and also to the physical appearance in which the composition has to be packaged.

[0131] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and / or cosmetic products, such as:

[0132] - active agents, such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts;

[0133] -Ceramide;

[0134] -Inorganic UV screening agent

[0135] - additional colorants;

[0136] -filler;

[0137] - hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0138] - lipophilic gelling agents;

[0139] -spices;

[0140] -preservative;

[0141] - and mixtures thereof.

[0142] It is a routine operation for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, such that the desired cosmetic properties of these compositions are not thereby affected.

[0143] Additional colorants

[0144] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one additional water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant, and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] For obvious reasons, this amount is susceptible to considerable variation with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the colorant in question, and its adjustment is undoubtedly within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0146] Additional colorants suitable for use in the present invention may be fat-soluble.

[0147] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an oil phase or in a solvent miscible with a fatty substance and is capable of imparting color.

[0148] As liposoluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made notably of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsanthin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0149] Additional colorants suitable for use in the present invention may be water-soluble.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, "water-soluble colorant" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or in a water-miscible solvent and which is capable of imparting color.

[0151] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made notably of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.

[0152] Inorganic UV Screening Agent

[0153] According to one particular form of the invention, the composition also comprises at least one inorganic UV screening agent.

[0154] The inorganic UV screening agent used according to the present invention is a metal oxide pigment. More preferably, the inorganic UV screening agent of the present invention is a metal oxide particle having an average basic particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, still more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, still better between 0.01 and 0.1 μm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.

[0155] They may in particular be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.

[0156] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.

[0157] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0158] Coated pigments are pigments that have been subjected to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electrical, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids; beeswax; fatty acids; fatty alcohols; anionic surfactants; lecithin; sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids; metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum); polyethylene; proteins (collagen, elastin); alkanolamines; silicon oxide; metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0159] The coated pigment is more particularly titanium oxide coated with:

[0160] -Silicon dioxide, such as those from Ikeda

[0161] -Silicon dioxide and iron oxide, such as Sunveil from Ikeda Corporation

[0162] -Silicon dioxide and aluminum oxide, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT500 from Imperial Chemicals and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100SA, and Tioveil from Tioxide,

[0163] - Alumina, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 from Ishihara and Tipaque TTO-55 and UVT 14 / 4 from Sachibin Pigments,

[0164] - Aluminium oxide and aluminium stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT100 from Imperial Chemicals Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100T MT 100 MT 100 and Solaveil CT-10 from Uniqema and Solaveil CT and Eusolex from Merck

[0165] -Silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 from Imperial Chemicals

[0166] - Aluminium oxide and aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT100 from Imperial Chemicals

[0167] -Iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT100 from Imperial Chemical Company

[0168] - Zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR from Imperial Chemical Company

[0169] - triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from Titan Kogyo,

[0170] - Stearic acid, such as Tipaque TTO-55 from Ishihara

[0171] - Sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 from Imperial Chemical Company

[0172] - TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold by Degussa Silices under the trade name T Sale,

[0173] - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate and aluminum oxide, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by Croda,

[0174] - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, aluminum oxide and silicone, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD) by Croda,

[0175] - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50 by Daito Kasei Kogyo,

[0176] - TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide sold under the name PFX-5TiO2 CR-50 by Daito Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.

[0177] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal, such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, the doped pigment is in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric / octanoic acid. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally contain one or more dispersants, such as, for example, sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan isostearate, or polyoxyalkylated glyceryl fatty acid esters, such as Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles contains at least one dispersant selected from polyoxyalkylated glyceryl fatty acid esters. Mention may be made more particularly of an oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic triglyceride in the presence of Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate, having the following INCI name: Titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for example marketed by Croda under the trade name Optisol Products for sale.

[0178] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are available, for example, from Imperial Chemical Company under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 It is marketed by Degussa under the name P 25 and by Wacker under the name Transparent titanium oxide. Miyoshi Chemicals Co., Ltd. Tomen Co., Ltd. and sold by Titanium Dioxide Corporation under the name Tioveil AQ.

[0179] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0180] - those sold by Sunsmart under the name Z-Cote;

[0181] - Elementis those that are sold;

[0182] -Sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name Nanogard WCD Those that are sold.

[0183] The coated zinc oxide pigment is for example

[0184] -Made by Nanoscale Technologies under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide Those sold (as in Finsolv Benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 40% dispersion in alkyl esters);

[0185] -Made by Himes Corporation under the name Nanox Gel Those sold (dispersed in benzoic acid C at 55%) 12 -C 15 ZnO in polycondensates of alkyl esters and hydroxystearic acid).

[0186] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can be obtained, for example, from Rhone-Poulenc By the name Colloidal Cerium Those that are sold.

[0187] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are marketed, for example, by Arnaud under the name Nanogard WCD (FE ), Nanogard Iron FE 45BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R and Nanogard WCD (FE ) or by Mitsubishi Corporation under the name For sale.

[0188] Coated iron oxide pigments are available, for example, from Arnold under the name Nanogard WCD 2008 Nanogard WCD Nanogard FE 45BL and Nanogard FE 45 Or by BASF under the name Transparent Iron For sale.

[0189] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including mixtures of equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silicon dioxide (sold under the name Sunveil A by the company Ikeda), or mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide and glycerol, such as the product M sold by the company Saqibin Pigments.

[0190] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred, in particular titanium oxide pigments coated with aluminum oxide and aluminum stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 from Imperial Chemical Company. Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100T MT 100 MT 100 and Solaveil CT-10 from Viagra and Solaveil CT and Eusolex from Merck

[0191] The inorganic UV screening agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight and in particular from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] filler

[0193] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler which makes it possible in particular to impart to them the additional properties of improved stability, wear resistance, hiding and / or mattness.

[0194] The term "filler" is understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They make it possible to give body or solidity to the composition and / or to give softness and uniformity to the make-up.

[0195] Fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0196] Preferably, they may be chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0197] The term "natural compound" is understood to mean a compound obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals by - if appropriate - one or more physical methods such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtering.

[0198] The term "compound of natural origin" is understood to mean a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments that produce changes that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound that mainly comprises natural ingredients that have or have not undergone a transformation. As non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments that produce changes that do not affect the essential qualities of the natural compound, mention may be made of those permitted by controlling bodies such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in handbooks recognized in the field such as Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine, 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.

[0199] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may have lamellar, spherical, spherical or fibrous form or any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

[0200] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with an amino acid or any other substance that promotes the dispersibility and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0201] a) Mineral fillers

[0202] As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, natural or synthetic mica such as synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, hydrophobic silica aerogels, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or composites of silica and titanium dioxide (such as the PTFE sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. series).

[0203] More preferably an inorganic filler selected from natural or synthetic mica, hydrophobic silica aerogel and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0204] Hydrophobic Silica Aerogel

[0205] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition of the invention also contains at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0206] Silica aerogel is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air.

[0207] They are usually synthesized by the sol-gel method in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used supercritical fluid being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of pores and materials. The sol-gel method and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science [Sol-Gel Science], New York, Academic Press [Academic Press], 1990.

[0208] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a diameter ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200m 2 / g and even better from 600 to 800m 2 The specific surface area per unit mass (S / M) of / g, and the size expressed as the volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranges from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.

[0209] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen adsorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938 and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles under consideration.

[0210] The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured using a Mastersizer from Malvern The particle size is measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is accurate for isotropic particles, making it possible to determine the "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0211] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a diameter ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g is the specific surface area per unit mass (S / M).

[0212] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a particle size ranging from 0.02 to 0.10 g / cm 3 , preferably from 0.03 to 0.08 g / cm 3 , especially in the range of 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm 3 The tap density ρ.

[0213] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following scheme, known as the tap density scheme:

[0214] 40 g of powder were poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder was then placed in a Stav from Stampf Volumeter. machine; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of the tapped powder is then measured directly on the cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, which in the case in question is 40 / Vf (Vf is expressed in cm 3 denoted by and w is denoted by g).

[0215] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a diameter ranging from 5 to 60 μm. 2 / cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50m 2 / cm 3 And also better from 15 to 40m 2 / cm 3 The specific surface area per unit volume SV.

[0216] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship: SV = SM x ρ, where ρ is the tap density in g / cm3 and SM is in m 2 The specific surface area per unit mass expressed by % / g is as defined above.

[0217] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0218] The absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which needs to be added to 100 g of granules in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

[0219] This oil absorption is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the oil absorption of powders described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder as measured by measuring the wet point as follows:

[0220] A certain amount of powder m=2 g is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After 4 to 5 drops of oil have been added to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula and the addition of oil is continued until an aggregate of oil and powder is formed. From this point on, the oil is added at a rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently ground with a spatula. When a firm, smooth paste is obtained, the addition of oil is stopped. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without breaking or forming lumps. The volume of oil used Vs (expressed in ml) is then recorded. The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0221] The aerogel used according to the invention is a hydrophobic silica aerogel, preferably a silyl silica aerogel (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0222] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface has been treated with a silylating agent, for example with a silane halide such as an alkylchlorosilane or a silazane, in order to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl.

[0223] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

[0224] It will be preferred to use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which have been surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably having the INCI name Silica Silylate.

[0225] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of the aerogels sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATED), the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a diameter ranging from 600 to 800 microns. 2 / g of specific surface area per unit mass.

[0226] Reference may also be made to the Aerogel TLD by Cabot Corporation under the reference number Aerogel OGD and Aerogel TLD Enova Aerogel MT and Enova Aerogel MT Aerogel for sale.

[0227] It will be preferred to use an aerogel sold by the company Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATED), the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a particle size ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g of specific surface area per unit mass.

[0228] The silica aerogel particles, in particular silylated silica aerogel, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 13% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight and in particular ranging from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] b) Organic fillers

[0230] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as those produced by Daito in Japan under the trade name Those sold in series.

[0231] Preferably, the filler is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Gelling Agent

[0233] Depending on the desired viscosity of the composition, one or more hydrophilic (ie, soluble or dispersible in water) gelling agents and / or one or more lipophilic (ie, soluble or dispersible in water) gelling agents may be incorporated into the composition of the invention.

[0234] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent and / or the lipophilic gelling agent will be selected from natural gelling agents or gelling agents of natural origin.

[0235] As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, scleroglucan, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, gellan, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] As the lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned, for example, lipophilic clay.

[0237] Lipophilic clay

[0238] According to a particularly preferred form, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one lipophilic clay.

[0239] The term "lipophilic clay" is intended to mean any clay that is fat-soluble or fat-dispersible in the oil phase of the composition.

[0240] Clays are materials with a layered structure based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates.

[0241] Clays can be natural or synthetic, and they are prepared by treating with alkyl ammonium salts (such as C 10 To C 22 It can be rendered lipophilic by treatment with ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0242] They may be chosen from bentonites (in particular bentonite, hectorite and montmorillonite), beidellite, saponite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite and zeolites.

[0243] They are preferably selected from hectorites and bentonites.

[0244] According to a particularly preferred form, a lipophilic clay selected from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites is used, in particular C 10 To C 22 Quaternary ammonium chloride modified, such as:

[0245] - Bentonites modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as those marketed under the name Claytone by BYK Additives Inc. Garamite LG-M, MP 250 VZ and Products sold under the name VZ-V XR; or by Bentec SPA B3, B4, B7, B8, ED, GM, S4 and Goods sold by SD;

[0246] - bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the following commercial products: Dub Velvet from Dubsterlin

[0247] Myglyol GEL from Cremer Oleo BYK Additives CGT6030, DBA 6060, FTN, FTN 1564, IPM, LAN, LAN 1563;

[0248] - Hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimethylammonium Hectorite), such as those marketed by Elementis Specialities under the name 38V sold;

[0249] - Hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as those marketed by Elementis Specialty Chemicals under the name Gel DOA V, Gel EUG V, Gel IHD V, Gel ISD V, Gel MIO Gel PTM SS-71V, VS-5PC V, Products sold under the names Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS, Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID from Créations Couleurs; NS Gel from Next Step Laboratories Stop NS Gel NS MGel Items sold.

[0250] The lipophilic clay is present in the composition in a concentration ranging preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] application

[0252] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin and / or keratin fibers, for the body or for the face, in particular for the face.

[0253] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0254] Thus, according to one sub-mode of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0255] The composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a foundation.

[0256] Such compositions are prepared in particular according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0257] Throughout the specification (including the claims), the expression "comprising one / a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one / a", unless otherwise specified.

[0258] Unless otherwise stated, the expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” should be understood as meaning that the limit values ​​are included.

[0259] The invention is explained in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed in mass percent.

[0260] Examples 1 to 5

[0261] Example 1 according to the present invention and Comparative Examples 2 to 5 were prepared.

[0262] [Table 1]

[0263]

[0264]

[0265] Preparation of composition

[0266] The components of phase A1 are weighed out and the mixture is stirred at 55° C. in order to obtain a homogeneous phase and then cooled to 30° C. The components of A2 are then weighed out and introduced into A1.

[0267] The aqueous phase B was emulsified in phase A by stirring at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes.

[0268] To prepare C, the pigment was ground in an air jet mill with 11.1% of synthetic fluorphlogopite relative to its weight. C was then introduced into emulsion A+B by stirring at 1500 rpm for 10 minutes.

[0269] A panel of 14 people tested these foundations on the face, with each instance having a volume of 0.075 ml.

[0270] The following cosmetic criteria were rated on a scale of 0 to 15. The higher the score, the greater the cosmetic effect.

[0271] [Table 2]

[0272]

[0273] The results show that Example 1 corresponds to the testers' preference. Compared with Comparative Examples 2 and 3, this example exhibits better cosmetic properties, notably easier spreading upon application, and less dry, less smooth, and softer skin 5 minutes after application.

[0274] Compared to Example 1 of the present invention, Comparative Examples 4 and 5 showed phase separation at the surface, which was apparent as early as after 1 month at ambient temperature and aggravated when the emulsions were stored at higher temperatures (eg, 37° C.).

Claims

1. A composition in the form of a silicone-free water-in-oil emulsion, the composition notably comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) a continuous oil phase, said oil phase comprising: i) at least one carbonate C 12 -C 22 dialkyl esters; and ii) C8-C 10 at least one mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil; and iii) at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; and B) an aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase; C) at least one emulsifying nonionic surfactant which is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups having the following INCI name: PEG-30 polyhydroxystearate; and D) at least one powdered colorant selected from: - mineral pigments chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide and iron oxide, and mixtures thereof, - organic pigments, - Pearlescent agent, and mixtures thereof.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The carbonate C 12 -C 22 The dialkyl ester is selected from - di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate; - dicaprylyl carbonate; -Carbonate C 14 -C 15 Mixture of dialkyl esters (INCI name: C14-C15 dialkyl carbonate); - dipropylheptyl carbonate; and more particularly dicaprylyl carbonate.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein The dialkyl carbonate i) is present in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 7% to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein The C8-C 10 The mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil ii) is caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C 10 ) and coconut fatty alcohol, which has the INCI name Coco-Caprylate / Caprate.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The C8-C 10 The mixture of esters of carboxylic acids and fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil ii) is present in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile linear alkanes containing 6 to 14 carbon atoms, notably chosen from n-hexane (C6), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-octane (C11), n-decane (C12), n-hexane (C13), n-octane (C14), n-nonane (C15), n-decane ( 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from - a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane; - Straight chain C9-C 12 A mixture of alkanes; - A mixture of undecane and tridecane.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, and more particularly isododecane.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil i) is preferably present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The emulsifying nonionic surfactant of polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate type containing 30 mol of ethyleneoxy groups is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a content of water ranging from 20% to 50% and more particularly from 30% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein The pulverulent colorant is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight and more particularly from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive selected from the group consisting of: - active agents, such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C and B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; -Ceramide; -Inorganic UV screening agents; - additional colorants; -filler; - hydrophilic gelling agent; - lipophilic gelling agents; -spices; -preservative; - and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one inorganic UV screening agent chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments, preferably from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from titanium oxide pigments, and more particularly titanium oxide pigments coated with aluminum oxide and aluminum stearate.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one lipophilic clay, in particular chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, notably modified with stearalkonium chloride.

17. A method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that The method comprises applying to the keratin material a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

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