Amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of amino acid facial cleansers, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser comprises the following raw materials by weight: 10-30 parts of an amino acid surfactant, 7.4-17 parts of a moisturizer, 1-2 parts of a thickener, 0.1-4 parts of a skin conditioner, 0.1-0.5 part of a pH regulator, 0.1-0.5 part of an aromatic, 0.1-1 part of a preservative, 0.01-0.1 part of a chelating agent, and 49-82 parts of deionized water. The thickening agent comprises gum tragacanth and xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of the gum tragacanth to the xanthan gum is (3: 1)-(9: 1). The gum tragacanth and the xanthan gum cooperate to improve the stability of the foam, the gum tragacanth and the xanthan gum can form a rigid-flexible network and a gel matrix with elasticity and shear dilution characteristics, the half-life period of the foam is prolonged, and the gum tragacanth can also form an air-permeable hydrated film on the skin surface, reduce water evaporation and cooperate with the humectant to replenish water.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of amino acid facial cleansers, and in particular to an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Traditional soap-based facial cleansers have a high pH value (9.0-10.5), which damages the skin's acidic protective film and significantly increases the transepidermal water loss rate (TEWL). Long-term use may cause skin problems such as sensitive skin, redness, dryness and desquamation. Excessive degreasing causes the loss rate of intercellular lipids (ceramides and cholesterol) to reach 18%-25%. In a hard water environment, it is easier to generate insoluble metal soap residues that clog pores. Long-term use can cause barrier function damage, compensatory oil secretion and sensitive skin problems. In addition, soap-based facial cleansers are incompatible with soothing and moisturizing active ingredients (such as panthenol and ceramide), which seriously restricts their use in sensitive skin care and long-lasting moisturizing products.

[0003] Amino acid facial cleansers on the market have become the mainstream choice of cleaning products due to their mildness and safety. Their core advantage lies in the use of weakly acidic amino acid surfactants (such as sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, etc.), with a pH value close to the natural sebum membrane of human skin (about 5.5-6.5), which can avoid the barrier damage and tightness caused by traditional soap-based facial cleansers due to excessive alkalinity.

[0004] However, traditional amino acid facial cleansers mostly rely on synthetic high molecular polymers (such as carbomer, acrylic acid (ester) copolymers) or excess electrolytes (sodium chloride). Although the viscosity can be adjusted, there is a risk of irritation (such as barrier damage caused by carbomer pH dependence) or insufficient foam stability (foam collapses quickly after shear thinning). In particular, the thickening efficiency is significantly reduced in a low pH environment (5.0-6.5), resulting in uncontrolled product fluidity or difficulty in pumping. Most amino acid facial cleansers on the market rely on small molecule moisturizers (glycerin, butylene glycol, etc.), but their residence time is too short to effectively compensate for the loss of water in the stratum corneum during the cleansing process. Excessive addition can easily cause the system to be sticky or the stability of the compatibility to deteriorate, resulting in the skin still feeling dry and tight after washing. It cannot meet the long-term care needs of sensitive or dry skin. Natural colloids (such as xanthan gum and gellan gum) can replace synthetic thickeners, but they have poor compatibility with amino acid surfactants and can easily cause flocculation or stratification. In addition, a single colloid cannot take into account both viscosity maintenance and foam persistence, resulting in limited product practicality.

[0005] In view of the above problems in the prior art, the present invention combines many years of design and use experience in related fields to design an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser and a preparation method thereof to overcome the above defects. Summary of the invention

[0006] In order to solve the problems existing in the prior art, the present invention provides an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser and a preparation method thereof, which has strong foam stabilizing performance, slows down the foam collapse rate, has synergistic water locking-hydrating-repairing functions, has few irritating ingredients, has a high biodegradation rate, and can avoid microplastic pollution.

[0007] In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the first aspect of the present invention provides an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 10-30 parts of amino acid surfactant, 7.4-17 parts of moisturizing agent, 1-2 parts of thickener, 0.1-4 parts of skin conditioner, 0.1-0.5 parts of pH adjuster, 0.1-0.5 parts of fragrance, 0.1-1 parts of preservative, 0.01-0.1 parts of chelating agent, and 49-82 parts of deionized water; The thickener comprises tragacanth gum and xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is (3:1)-(9:1).

[0008] Preferably, the moisturizing agent includes at least two of glycerin, 1,2-ethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and tremella polysaccharide.

[0009] Preferably, the moisturizing agent includes glycerin, 1,2-ethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and Tremella polysaccharide; In the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, the 1,2-ethylene glycol is 3.2 parts by weight, and the weight ratio of tragacanth gum, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and tremella polysaccharide is (1-1.7):(5-8):(0.5-1):(2-4):(0.3-0.7).

[0010] Preferably, the amino acid surfactant is selected from at least two of sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0011] Preferably, the preservative is selected from one of phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, and p-hydroxyacetophenone; The chelating agent is disodium EDTA; The fragrance is a daily fragrance.

[0012] Preferably, the pH adjuster is lactic acid or citric acid.

[0013] Preferably, the skin conditioning agent is selected from at least two of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, witch hazel extract, and dipropylene glycol.

[0014] The present invention also provides a method for preparing an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, comprising the following steps: (1) premix tragacanth gum and glycerin in a certain proportion, and shear disperse them in deionized water at 50-60°C at a speed of 3000-5000 rpm for 10-15 minutes; (2) Add xanthan gum and stir until it is completely swollen to form a uniform colloid; (3) Heat the colloid to 65-80°C, add the amino acid surfactant, and stir until dissolved; (4) Cool down to 35-40°C, add moisturizer first, then add skin conditioner, fragrance, chelating agent, preservative and mix well; (5) Adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5 with a pH adjuster; (6) At a pressure of 10-15 MPa, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser is obtained by homogenizing and filling.

[0015] The invention is beneficial in that: 1. The thickener composed of tragacanth gum and xanthan gum in the present invention plays a synergistic role in improving the stability of foam. The β-(1→4)-linked D-galacturonic acid main chain and neutral sugar side chain in the tragacanth gum molecular chain can form a highly viscoelastic three-dimensional network skeleton through hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces in the aqueous phase, providing foam support and enhancing foam stability; at the same time, xanthan gum dynamically cross-links with the linear chain segments of tragacanth gum through its anionic characteristics and helical molecular structure, further strengthening the network density and forming a gel matrix with both elasticity and shear thinning properties. The shear thinning property makes the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser become thinner when it is pumped out by external force, which is convenient for use. When the external force disappears, the viscoelasticity is quickly restored, the stability of the foam is maintained, the half-life is extended, the foam is prevented from collapsing too quickly, and the use experience is improved; the ion sensitivity of xanthan gum complements the pH stability of tragacanth gum, so that the system maintains stable rheological properties within the pH range of 5.5-6.5.

[0016] 2. As a natural high molecular weight polysaccharide, the β-1,4-glycosidic bonds in the molecular chain of the tragacanth gum in the present invention form a three-dimensional network structure, forming a breathable hydration film on the skin surface, reducing water evaporation (TEWL reduction). At the same time, its polar groups (hydroxyl and carboxyl) combine with small molecule moisturizers such as glycerol and sodium hyaluronate through hydrogen bonds, enhancing the latter's directional penetration and retention ability in the stratum corneum, thereby improving the moisturizing effect.

[0017] 3. In the present invention, glycerol captures environmental moisture through hygroscopic action, and after combining with the tragacanth gum network, it delays volatilization to form a dynamic moisturizing layer; low molecular weight (30-100 kDa) sodium hyaluronate can penetrate into the deep layer of the stratum corneum, and synergistically fill the intercellular gaps with tragacanth gum to improve skin hydration; panthenol can repair the lipid barrier after being converted into pantothenic acid, enhance the water-locking durability of the tragacanth gum-glycerol system, and give the system a repair function; Tremella polysaccharide contains mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid, which can cross-link with the sugar chain of tragacanth gum, enhance membrane flexibility and resist free radical damage.

[0018] 4. The natural pH adaptability (stable at 5.0-7.5) of the tragacanth gum in the present invention can avoid the process defect of carbomers requiring alkaline neutralization, thereby reducing the residue of irritating ingredients (such as triethanolamine), having little irritation to the skin, and a biodegradation rate of up to 91% (OECD 301B), which can avoid microplastic pollution. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0019] In order to facilitate understanding by those skilled in the art, the present invention is further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0020] The first aspect of the present invention provides an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 10-30 parts of amino acid surfactant, 7.4-17 parts of moisturizer, 1-2 parts of thickener, 0.1-4 parts of skin conditioner, 0.1-0.5 parts of pH adjuster, 0.1-0.5 parts of fragrance, 0.1-1 parts of preservative, 0.01-0.1 parts of chelating agent and 49-82 parts of deionized water.

[0021] The thickeners include tragacanth gum and xanthan gum; in the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is (3:1)-(9:1).

[0022] The D-galacturonic acid main chain and neutral sugar side chains connected by β-(1→4) in the tragacanth gum molecular chain of the present invention can form a highly viscoelastic three-dimensional network skeleton through hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces in an aqueous phase; xanthan gum is dynamically cross-linked with the linear chain segments of tragacanth gum through its anionic characteristics and helical molecular structure, further strengthening the network density and forming a gel matrix with both elasticity and shear thinning characteristics; the highly viscoelastic three-dimensional network skeleton of tragacanth gum provides foam support, and the shear thinning characteristics of xanthan gum ensure that the facial cleanser is easy to disperse when being pumped out and quickly recovers its viscoelasticity after use; the two synergistically enhance the stability of the foam and prolong the foam stabilization half-life.

[0023] In addition, the ion sensitivity of xanthan gum complements the pH stability of tragacanth gum, so that the system maintains stable rheological properties within the pH range of 5.5-6.5. Carbomer thickeners require an alkaline neutralizer (such as triethanolamine). If the cleaning is not in place, the triethanolamine residue may destroy the skin microecological balance. The present invention selects tragacanth gum with good natural pH adaptability (stable at 5.0-7.5), which can avoid the process defect of carbomer requiring alkaline neutralization, thereby reducing the residue of irritating ingredients (such as triethanolamine). Compared with the low biodegradability (about 40%) of acrylic polymers (such as SEPINOV™), the biodegradability of the thickener of the present invention can reach 91% (OECD 301B), which can avoid microplastic pollution.

[0024] The moisturizing agent includes at least two of glycerin, 1,2-ethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and tremella polysaccharide. The moisturizing agent includes glycerin, 1,2-ethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and tremella polysaccharide. In the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, 1,2-ethylene glycol is 3.2 parts by weight, and the weight ratio of tragacanth gum, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and tremella polysaccharide is (1-1.7): (5-8): (0.5-1): (2-4): (0.3-0.7).

[0025] The tragacanth gum in the present invention not only acts as a thickener, but also as a natural moisturizing synergistic ingredient, producing a synergistic effect with the moisturizer in the formula. The β-1,4-glycosidic bonds in the tragacanth gum molecular chain form a three-dimensional network structure, forming a breathable hydration film on the skin surface, while reducing water evaporation (TEWL reduction), its polar groups (hydroxyl, carboxyl) combine with small molecule moisturizers such as glycerol and sodium hyaluronate through hydrogen bonds, enhancing the directional penetration and retention ability of small molecule moisturizers in the stratum corneum, and improving the moisturizing effect.

[0026] Specifically, in the present invention, glycerol captures environmental moisture through hygroscopic action, and after combining with the tragacanth gum network, it delays volatilization to form a dynamic moisturizing layer; low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate can penetrate into the deep layer of the stratum corneum, and synergistically fill the intercellular space with tragacanth gum to improve skin hydration; panthenol can repair the lipid barrier after being converted into pantothenic acid, and enhance the water-locking durability of the tragacanth gum-glycerol system; Tremella polysaccharide contains mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid, which can cross-link with the sugar chain of tragacanth gum, enhance membrane flexibility and resist free radical damage. Tragacanth gum reduces TEWL through the triple mechanism of physical barrier construction, lipid regulation, and anti-inflammatory repair. Its polysaccharide structure forms a multi-dimensional synergistic network with moisturizers with different functions (glycerol, HA, Tremella polysaccharide, etc.), realizing the integrated moisturizing of "moisture absorption-water lock-repair".

[0027] The amino acid surfactant is selected from at least two of sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate; the preservative is selected from one of phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid and p-hydroxyacetophenone; the pH adjuster is selected from lactic acid or citric acid; the skin conditioner is selected from at least two of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, witch hazel extract and dipropylene glycol; the chelating agent is disodium EDTA; and the fragrance is daily fragrance.

[0028] The present invention also provides a method for preparing an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, comprising the following steps: (1) premix tragacanth gum and glycerin in proportion, and shear disperse them in a 50-60°C aqueous phase at a speed of 3000-5000 rpm for 10-15 minutes; (2) Add xanthan gum and stir until it is completely swollen to form a uniform colloid; (3) Heat the colloid to 65-80°C, add the amino acid surfactant, and stir until dissolved; (4) Cool down to 35-40°C, add moisturizer first, then add skin conditioner, fragrance, chelating agent, preservative and stir evenly at a stirring speed of 25-40 rpm; (5) Adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5 with a pH adjuster; (6) At a pressure of 10-15 MPa, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser is obtained by homogenizing and filling.

[0029] Because the direct contact of tragacanth gum with water phase can cause particle aggregation, shear dispersion energy consumption increases, and the dispersion process is extended, which will affect the subsequent full swelling of xanthan gum added. Therefore, in the present invention, tragacanth gum is first premixed with glycerol to improve dispersibility, so that tragacanth gum is quickly and fully swollen, forming a uniform and stable colloidal dispersion system, reducing system viscosity, avoiding the agglomeration of tragacanth gum in subsequent processes or phase separation, and facilitating the subsequent compounding of components such as sodium hyaluronate and panthenol. Wherein glycerol is combined with the polysaccharide chain of tragacanth gum by hydrogen bonds, forming a "moisture absorption-locking water" dynamic network, and enhancing the instantaneous moisture retention of the system.

[0030] The specific embodiments are as follows Unless otherwise specified, the experimental methods used in the present invention are all conventional methods, and the materials, reagents, etc. used are all available from commercial channels unless otherwise specified.

[0031] In the following examples and comparative examples, the tragacanth gum is a highly transparent tragacanth gum (CAS No.: 9000-65-1), model HY-126D, purity> 95%, from Shandong Dongfang Hongye Chemical Co., Ltd.; Xanthan gum is highly transparent xanthan gum with a purity of >95%, and comes from Shandong Dongfang Hongye Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0032] Example 1-Example 5 and Comparative Example 1-Comparative Example 5 The present invention provides an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, the total weight portion is 100 parts, the components and weight portions of Example 1 to Example 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to Comparative Examples 5 are selected as shown in Table 1, the pH regulator, skin conditioner, fragrance, chelating agent, and preservative components used in Example 1 to Example 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to Comparative Examples 5 are selected in the same manner, specifically, the pH regulator is citric acid, the skin conditioner is a mixture of 2 parts of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and 1.5 parts of dipropylene glycol, the fragrance is a daily fragrance, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol.

[0033] The amino acid surfactant and moisturizing agent components used in Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 are the same, specifically, the amino acid surfactant is 30 parts, including 40% by mass of sodium cocoyl glycinate (mass concentration of 35%) and 60% by mass of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (mass concentration of 28%); the moisturizing agent is a mixture of 1,2-ethylene glycol, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, tremella polysaccharide, and panthenol, and the moisturizing agent is 3.2 parts of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts of glycerol, 0.75 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5 parts of tremella polysaccharide, and 3 parts of panthenol.

[0034] The only differences between Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 are the composition, weight parts, and weight parts of the thickener and deionized water, as follows:

[0035] Example 1 The thickener in this embodiment is a mixture of 0.9 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 3:1.

[0036] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, comprising the following steps: (1) Pre-dispersed tragacanth gum: pre-mix tragacanth gum and glycerol in a certain proportion and disperse by shear in a 55°C aqueous phase (speed 4000 rpm, time 15 min); (2) Add xanthan gum and stir until it is completely swollen to form a uniform colloid; (3) Heat the colloid to 80°C, add the amino acid surfactant, and stir until dissolved; (4) Cool down to 40°C, add sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, Tremella polysaccharide in sequence, then add skin conditioner, fragrance, chelating agent, preservative, keep stirring at 30 rpm, and stir evenly; (5) Adjust pH to 6 with citric acid; (6) After homogenization at 10 MPa, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser is bottled.

[0037] Example 2 The thickener in this embodiment is a mixture of 1.16 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.24 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 5:1.

[0038] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0039] Example 3 The thickener in this embodiment is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 5:1.

[0040] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0041] Example 4 The thickener in this embodiment is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.25 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 6:1.

[0042] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0043] Example 5 The thickener in this embodiment is a mixture of 1.8 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.2 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 9:1.

[0044] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0045] Comparative Example 1 The thickener in this comparative example is 1.8 parts by weight of tragacanth gum.

[0046] Based on the raw material composition and weight proportions of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1, except that in this comparative example, tragacanth gum and glycerin were premixed and stirred until they were completely swollen to form a uniform colloid, and no xanthan gum was added.

[0047] Comparative Example 2 The thickener in this comparative example is 1.8 parts by weight of xanthan gum.

[0048] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1, except that in this comparative example, glycerin and xanthan gum were mixed in an aqueous phase and stirred until they were completely swollen to form a uniform colloid.

[0049] Comparative Example 3 The thickener in this comparative example is a mixture of 1.0 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.5 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 2:1.

[0050] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1.

[0051] Comparative Example 4 The thickener in this comparative example is a mixture of 2.1 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.1 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 21:1.

[0052] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1.

[0053] Comparative Example 5 The thickener in this comparative example is a mixture of 1.8 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.05 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 36:1.

[0054] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1.

[0055] Table 1 Basic component formula

[0056] The amino acid moisturizing facial cleansers prepared in Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were tested for foam stability 1. The test standards and methods for the foam stability half-life (min) and initial foam height (mm) are as follows: (1) Sample preparation: Amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser and deionized water were mixed in a mass ratio of 1:9 and allowed to stand at a constant temperature of 25±0.5℃ for 24 hours to eliminate the shear history; (2) Foam generation: A Ross-Miles foam meter (in accordance with GB / T 29679-2013) was used. The test temperature was controlled at 25 ± 0.5 °C and 500 mL of sample was dropped vertically from a height of 900 mm to the bottom receiving pool at a constant flow rate (200 ± 5 mL / min). (3) Determination of initial foam volume: record the initial height H0 of the foam column (accuracy ±1 mm), which is defined as the vertical distance from the liquid surface to the top of the foam; (4) Determination of half-life: Use a stopwatch to time synchronously. When the foam height decays to 0.5H0, record the time t1 / 2. Perform three parallel tests and take the arithmetic mean. 2. Viscosity test method: Brookfield rotational viscometer (25°C, rotor LV-4, speed 60 rpm); The test results are shown in Table 2.

[0057] Table 2 Foam stability experimental data

[0058] Comparing the foam stability half-life of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 with Examples 1 to 5, it can be seen that when tragacanth or xanthan gum exists alone, the stability of the foam is improved to a certain extent, but it is far lower than the effect when tragacanth and xanthan gum exist together in the present invention. This is because the rheological adjustment of xanthan gum is lacking in Comparative Example 1, and the foam structure is easy to collapse. The three-dimensional network skeleton of tragacanth gum is lacking in Comparative Example 2, and the foam support force is lacking, which proves that tragacanth gum and xanthan gum in the present invention have synergy. When tragacanth gum and xanthan gum are compounded, a three-dimensional network is formed by cross-linking polysaccharide chains, which significantly prolongs the foam life (half-life ≥ 25.2 min), while balancing the dual effects of cleaning and skin feel.

[0059] When the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is 5:1, and the thickener is composed of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum (i.e., Example 3), the synergistic effect is the strongest, and the half-life reaches 31.5 min. In Comparative Example 3, due to the large proportion of xanthan gum in the thickener (33%), the excessive amount of xanthan gum destroys the foam network, resulting in a lower foam half-life. Comparative Example 5 shows that when the amount of xanthan gum added is low, xanthan gum cannot play a good synergistic role, which reduces the foam performance. Comparative Examples 3 and Comparative Examples 5 prove that the thickener in the present invention is a thickening system dominated by tragacanth gum, and the effect of the present invention cannot be achieved when the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum in the system is outside 3:1-9:1.

[0060] Similarly, the initial foam height in the present invention is ≥138 mm, and the highest can reach 157 mm, indicating that the thickening system of tragacanth gum and xanthan gum can form dense foam. In Comparative Example 2, the viscosity is too low due to the lack of tragacanth gum, the foam is loose, and the initial foam height is only 88 mm. Comparative Example 4 has too high viscosity (11500 cP) due to excessive thickener, and the residual feeling is obvious. When the thickener of Examples 1 to 5 is 1-2 parts by weight, the viscosity is 7600-10400 cP, which meets the experience requirements of easy foaming and easy rinsing of facial cleansers.

[0061] Example 6 The present invention provides an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, which has a total weight of 100 parts and comprises the following raw materials: 10 parts of amino acid surfactant, 13.45 parts of moisturizer, 1.8 parts of thickener, 0.1 parts of pH regulator, 0.1 parts of skin conditioner, 0.1 parts of fragrance, 0.01 parts of chelating agent, 0.1 parts of preservative, and the balance of deionized water; The pH regulator is lactic acid, the skin conditioning agent is a mixture of 0.05 parts of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and 0.05 parts of North American witch hazel extract, the fragrance is daily fragrance, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA, the preservative is parahydroxyacetophenone, the amino acid surfactant includes 50% by weight of potassium cocoyl glycinate (mass concentration is 40%) and 50% of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (mass concentration is 25%), the thickener is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of glycerin, 0.75 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of tremella polysaccharide.

[0062] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, comprising the following steps: (1) Pre-dispersed tragacanth gum: pre-mix tragacanth gum and glycerol in a certain proportion and disperse by shear in a 50°C aqueous phase (speed 3000 rpm, time 10 min); (2) Add xanthan gum and stir until it is completely swollen to form a uniform colloid; (3) Heat the colloid to 65°C, add the amino acid surfactant, and stir until dissolved; (4) Cool down to 35°C, add sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, Tremella polysaccharide in sequence, then add skin conditioner, fragrance, chelating agent, preservative, keep stirring at 30 rpm, and stir evenly; (5) Adjust the pH to 5.5 with lactic acid; (6) After homogenization at 12 MPa, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser is bottled.

[0063] Example 7 The present invention provides an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, which has a total weight of 100 parts, and comprises the following raw materials: 20 parts of amino acid surfactant, 13.45 parts of moisturizer, 1.8 parts of thickener, 0.5 parts of pH regulator, 4 parts of skin conditioner, 0.5 parts of fragrance, 0.1 parts of chelating agent, 1 part of preservative, and the balance of deionized water; The pH regulator is lactic acid, the skin conditioning agent is a mixture of 1 part of dipropylene glycol, 1 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizate and 2 parts of North American witch hazel extract, the fragrance is daily fragrance, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA, the preservative is parahydroxyacetophenone, the amino acid surfactant includes 60% by weight of potassium cocoyl glycinate (mass concentration is 40%) and 40% of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (mass concentration is 25%), the thickener is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of glycerin, 0.75 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of tremella polysaccharide.

[0064] This embodiment also provides a method for preparing an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, comprising the following steps: (1) Pre-dispersed tragacanth gum: pre-mix tragacanth gum and glycerol in a certain proportion and disperse by shear in a 60°C aqueous phase (speed 5000 rpm, time 15 min); (2) Add xanthan gum and stir until it is completely swollen to form a uniform colloid; (3) Heat the colloid to 80°C, add the amino acid surfactant, and stir until dissolved; (4) Cool down to 40°C, add sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, Tremella polysaccharide in sequence, then add skin conditioner, fragrance, chelating agent, preservative, keep stirring at 30 rpm, and stir evenly; (5) Adjust the pH to 6.5 with lactic acid; (6) After homogenization at 15 MPa, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser is bottled.

[0065] Example 8-Example 12 and Comparative Example 6-Comparative Example 10 The present invention provides an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, with a total weight of 100 parts. Compared with Example 3, the proportions of thickeners, moisturizers and deionized water in Examples 8 to 12 and Comparative Examples 6 and 10 are different. The selection of thickeners and moisturizers in Examples 8 to 12 and Comparative Examples 6 and 10 is as follows:

[0066] Example 8 In this embodiment, the thickener is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of glycerol, 0.75 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of Tremella polysaccharide.

[0067] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0068] Example 9 In this embodiment, the thickener is a mixture of 1.7 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 8 parts by weight of glycerin, 1 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 4 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.7 parts by weight of Tremella polysaccharide.

[0069] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0070] Example 10 In this embodiment, the thickener is a mixture of 1 part by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 part by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 5 parts by weight of glycerol, 0.5 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 2 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.3 parts by weight of Tremella polysaccharide.

[0071] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0072] Embodiment 11 In this embodiment, the thickener is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the humectant is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of glycerol, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of Tremella polysaccharide.

[0073] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0074] Example 12 In this embodiment, the thickener is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 0.75 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of Tremella polysaccharide.

[0075] Based on the raw material composition and weight parts of this embodiment, this embodiment prepares the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to the steps of Example 1.

[0076] Comparative Example 6 The thickener of this comparative example is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of urea, 0.75 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of tremella polysaccharide.

[0077] Based on the raw material composition and weight proportions of the comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1, except that urea was used instead of the glycerol in step (1).

[0078] Comparative Example 7 The thickener of this comparative example is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of glycerol, 0.75 parts by weight of trehalose, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of tremella polysaccharide.

[0079] Based on the raw material composition and weight proportions of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1, except that trehalose was used instead of sodium hyaluronate in step (3).

[0080] Comparative Example 8 The thickener of this comparative example is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of glycerol, 0.75 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 3 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by weight of tremella polysaccharide.

[0081] Based on the raw material composition and weight proportions of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1, except that propylene glycol was used instead of panthenol in step (3).

[0082] Comparative Example 9 The thickener of this comparative example is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the moisturizer is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of glycerin, 0.75 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 3 parts by weight of panthenol, and 0.5 parts by weight of xylitol.

[0083] Based on the raw material composition and weight proportions of this comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1, except that xylitol was used instead of the Tremella polysaccharide in step (3).

[0084] Comparative Example 10 The thickener of this comparative example is a mixture of 1.5 parts by weight of tragacanth gum and 0.3 parts by weight of xanthan gum, and the humectant is a mixture of 3.2 parts by weight of 1,2-ethylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of urea, 0.75 parts by weight of trehalose, 3 parts by weight of propylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by weight of xylitol.

[0085] Based on the raw material composition and weight proportions of the comparative example, an amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser was prepared according to the steps of Example 1, except that urea was used instead of the glycerol in step (1), and trehalose, propylene glycol and xylitol were used instead of other moisturizing agents in step (3).

[0086] Performance test of amino acid moisturizing facial cleansers prepared in Example 6 to Example 12 and Comparative Example 6 to Comparative Example 10 1. 1-hour moisturizing improvement rate (%) Test method: Instrument and Standard: Use a skin moisture tester that complies with ISO 24442:2011 (such as Corneometer ® CM825), calibrated to a standard environment (temperature 20±1°C, relative humidity 50±5%).

[0087] Test conditions: 120 healthy adults, females aged 18-45 years, were randomly divided into 12 groups, 10 people in each group. Before the test, they were placed in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 30 minutes, and the test area on the inner forearm was cleaned and dried (avoiding the injured area).

[0088] Test samples: amino acid moisturizing facial cleansers prepared in Examples 6 to 12 and Comparative Examples 6 to 10; Test steps: Measure the basic moisture value of the untreated area (M 0 ); Take the test sample (0.1g / cm²) and apply it evenly, massage for 1 minute (pressure 0.2N / cm²), rinse with 37℃ deionized water, and pat dry with a soft towel.

[0089] The subjects remained seated, and the moisture value of the treated area was measured 1 hour later (M 1 ).

[0090] Calculation formula: 1 hour moisturizing improvement rate (%) = (M 1 -M 0 ) / M 0 ×100% Evaluation criteria: A retention rate of ≥15% is considered to have a long-lasting moisturizing effect (refer to the "Guidelines for the Evaluation of Moisturizing Efficacy of Cosmetics" QB / T 4256-2011) 2. 4-hour moisturizing retention rate (%) Test method: Continuation test: After completing the 1-hour moisturizing improvement rate test, continue to maintain the above subjects in a standard environment, and prohibit contact with water or other intervention measures; Data collection: Measure the moisture value (M) of the same treatment area 4 hours after applying the facial cleanser. 4 ); Calculation formula: 4-hour moisturizing retention rate (%) = (M 4 -M 0 ) / M 0 ×100% Evaluation criteria: A retention rate ≥15% is considered to have a long-lasting moisturizing effect (refer to the "Guidelines for the Evaluation of Moisturizing Efficacy of Cosmetics" QB / T 4256-2011).

[0091] 3. TEWL (transepidermal water loss) reduction rate (%) Test method: Instrument and Standard: Use Tewameter certified to ISO 24444:2019 ® TM300 probe, to measure the rate of water loss from the stratum corneum.

[0092] Test steps: The basal TEWL value (T 0 ); 24 hours after applying the samples (amino acid moisturizing facial cleansers prepared in Examples 6 to 12 and Comparative Examples 6 to 10) (simulating the barrier recovery period after a single use), the TEWL value (T 1 ); Calculation formula: TEWL reduction rate (%) = (T 0 -T 1 ) / T 0 ×100 Effectiveness determination: TEWL reduction rate ≥ 10% indicates that the product has significant barrier repair function (based on Dermatology reference threshold) The test results are shown in Table 3. Table 3 Moisture retention test data

[0093] As can be seen from Table 3, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser of the present invention has good effects on moisturizing and repairing skin barrier, with a 1-hour moisturizing improvement (%) of 18.9±1.8 or more, a 4-hour moisturizing retention rate (%) of 61.3±2.7 or more, and a TEWL reduction rate of 20.1±1.3 or more. And when the moisturizer contains glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and Tremella polysaccharide at the same time, the effect is best, with a 1-hour moisturizing improvement (%) of 27.8±1.9 or more, a 4-hour moisturizing retention rate (%) of 76.5±2.8 or more, and a TEWL reduction rate of 30.5±1.7 or more. Compared with Example 8, the moisturizing properties of Comparative Examples 6 to 10 are greatly reduced, which indicates that small molecule hydrating agents such as urea and trehalose destroy the integrity of the tragacanth gum network due to steric hindrance or hydrogen bond competition effects, resulting in a significant decrease in moisturizing performance, a decrease in moisturizing retention rate of >30%, and a TEWL reduction effect of less than 50% of that in Example 6, which proves that under the premise of the three-dimensional network structure of tragacanth gum, the present invention produces a synergistic effect with the various substances in the humectant to form a stable "network-small molecule" composite system.

[0094] In summary, the glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and Tremella polysaccharide in the present invention can form a hydrogen bond-network synergistic system with tragacanth gum to achieve integrated moisturizing of "moisture absorption-moisture lock-repair", which can significantly improve the mildness and long-term moisturizing performance of the amino acid facial cleanser, and is especially suitable for sensitive skin, dry skin and barrier-damaged skin care products.

[0095] It should be understood that the purpose of these embodiments is only to illustrate the present invention and is not intended to limit the protection scope of the present invention. In addition, it should also be understood that after reading the technical content of the present invention, those skilled in the art can make various changes, modifications and / or variations to the present invention, and all of these equivalent forms also fall within the protection scope defined by the claims attached to this application.

Claims

1. An amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, characterized in that: The invention comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 10-30 parts of amino acid surfactant, 7.4-17 parts of moisturizing agent, 1-2 parts of thickener, 0.1-4 parts of skin conditioning agent, 0.1-0.5 parts of pH adjusting agent, 0.1-0.5 parts of fragrance, 0.1-1 parts of preservative, 0.01-0.1 parts of chelating agent and 49-82 parts of deionized water; The thickener comprises tragacanth gum and xanthan gum, and the mass ratio of tragacanth gum to xanthan gum is (3:1)-(9:1).

2. An amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to claim 1, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent includes at least two of glycerin, 1,2-ethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and tremella polysaccharide.

3. An amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to claim 2, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent includes glycerin, 1,2-ethylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and Tremella polysaccharide; In the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser, the 1,2-ethylene glycol is 3.2 parts by weight, and the weight ratio of tragacanth gum, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and tremella polysaccharide is (1-1.7):(5-8):(0.5-1):(2-4):(0.3-0.7).

4. The amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to claim 1, characterized in that: The amino acid surfactant is selected from at least two of sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

5. The amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preservative is selected from one of phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, and p-hydroxyacetophenone; The chelating agent is disodium EDTA; The fragrance is a daily fragrance.

6. The amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pH adjuster is selected from lactic acid or citric acid.

7. The amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to claim 1, characterized in that: The skin conditioning agent is selected from at least two of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, witch hazel extract, and dipropylene glycol.

8. A method for preparing the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: (1) premix tragacanth gum and glycerin in proportion, and shear disperse them in a 50-60°C aqueous phase at a speed of 3000-5000 rpm for 10-15 minutes; (2) Add xanthan gum and stir until it is completely swollen to form a uniform colloid; (3) Heat the colloid to 65-80°C, add the amino acid surfactant, and stir until dissolved; (4) Cool down to 35-40°C, add moisturizer first, then add skin conditioner, fragrance, chelating agent, preservative and mix well; (5) Adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5 with a pH adjuster; (6) At a pressure of 10-15 MPa, the amino acid moisturizing facial cleanser is obtained by homogenizing and filling.

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