Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol and at least one non-silicone oil, composition being free of silicone compounds

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which an oil phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, the composition comprising at least: (a) a saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol; (b) an anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain; (c) a polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition being free of silicone compounds. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process in which the composition is applied to a keratin material; and to the use of said composition in the field of cosmetics, in particular for caring for, protecting and making up the skin, or for caring for the hair.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which an oil phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and preferably a C16-C18 fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition being free of silicone compounds; and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratin materials. Existing technology

[0002] The specific type of galenic form to which the present invention is directed, namely an oil-in-water emulsion requiring in particular the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, allows the delivery of the active agent while providing advantageous sensory properties that are appreciated by the user when applied to keratin materials.

[0003] WO 2018 / 108878 and WO 2020 / 002538 describe, inter alia, oil-in-water emulsion compositions which require, inter alia, the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0004] However, these compositions are intended to achieve very specific goals. Their purpose is, inter alia, to conceal skin imperfections, to moisturize the skin and / or to treat the signs of skin aging, in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, especially as they increase with age.

[0005] The term "keratin materials" is intended especially to mean the skin, scalp, keratin fibres such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, body hair, nails, and mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, neck, periocular area, eyelids).

[0006] However, it is sometimes difficult to reconcile these requirements in terms of organoleptic properties, texture and stability. In particular, it is desirable to have a usable composition that maintains the same viscosity over time, in particular that neither increases nor decreases in viscosity over time. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The purpose of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned technical problems.

[0008] In view of the above, it is clear that there remains a need for compositions having favourable organoleptic properties, and in particular good glidant and non-sticky aspects, and reduced or no soaping, while maintaining satisfactory stability, in particular stability assessed upon storage for 1 month and / or 2 months, in particular stability assessed macroscopically and microscopically after storage for two months at temperatures ranging from 4°C to 45°C, in particular at 4°C, room temperature (typically between 20°C and 25°C) and 45°C.

[0009] Finally, consumers are now very sensitive to the environmental impact of the products they use.

[0010] Therefore, it remains very difficult to obtain cosmetic compositions that provide specific sensory properties in terms of a smooth and non-sticky feel upon application, with little soapiness, while maintaining good stability over time. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0011] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which an oil phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and preferably a C16-C18 fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition being free of silicone compounds.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of silicone compounds" means a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of silicone compounds relative to the total weight of the composition and more preferably is free (completely devoid of) silicone compounds.

[0013] The term "silicone compound" (also called silicone) is understood to mean any silicone compound which can be used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, i.e. an inorganic compound consisting of at least a mixture of silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl silicones or amino silicones.

[0014] As illustrated in the examples below, applicants have unexpectedly discovered that compositions can be obtained having advantageous sensory properties, and in particular good smoothness and non-stickiness, with little soap feel, while maintaining satisfactory stability over time.

[0015] Depending on the various benefits desired, the compositions according to the invention advantageously enable the delivery of various kinds of ingredients, such as cosmetic active agents, sunscreens, particles, polymers, dyes, nacres or pigments and fragrances.

[0016] The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of providing an anti-aging effect.

[0017] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and preferably a C16-C18 fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition being free of silicone compounds, wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is chosen from surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH2) n SO3M, wherein R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group; Y represents -O- or -NR1-, wherein R1 represents a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group; M is selected from hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium groups and organic amines; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0018] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, wherein a composition as defined above is applied to the keratin materials.

[0019] The invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0020] Other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent upon reading the following detailed description.

[0021] Details The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological and is preferably cosmetic.

[0022] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0023] The term "cosmetic" refers to compositions that are compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and integuments. The compositions according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0024] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, ie one that has a pleasing colour, odour and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (ie stinging, tightness or redness) that might deter the user from applying the composition.

[0025] Hereinafter, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more", and unless otherwise specified, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in the range.

[0026] Saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohols The term "saturated fatty alcohol" means any alcohol comprising a linear saturated (containing no covalent double or triple bonds) hydrocarbon-based chain, particularly a linear alkyl group, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl functional group.

[0027] The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" means an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0028] The saturated fatty alcohol present in the composition according to the invention comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0029] The saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohols used in the composition according to the invention are solid at room temperature and advantageously carry chain-terminal -OH groups.

[0030] The saturated fatty alcohols useful in the context of the present invention may be chosen especially from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (Cetyl alcohol). 16 ), stearyl alcohol or octyl alcohol (C 18 ), or behenyl alcohol (C 22 ), which are solid at room temperature and advantageously carry chain-terminal -OH groups.

[0031] Particularly preferably, one or more alcohols selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (such as cetearyl alcohol) will be used.

[0032] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises C 16 Fatty alcohols and C 18 A mixture of fatty alcohols; in particular, the composition comprises cetearyl alcohol.

[0033] More preferably, C 16 Fatty alcohols and C 18The mixture of fatty alcohols ranges from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20 C 16 / C 18 mass ratio, and advantageously with a C equal to 50 / 50 16 / C 18 Quality ratio used.

[0034] The amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the invention is between 2.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 8% by weight and even more preferably between 2.7% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] Anionic surfactants containing at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain Anionic surfactants useful in the context of the present invention contain at least one saturated (without any covalent double or triple bonds) or unsaturated (may contain one or more covalent double and / or triple bonds), preferably saturated, linear hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a linear alkyl group, said chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, anionic surfactants useful in the context of the present invention contain only one saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0036] According to one particular embodiment, the anionic surfactants useful in the context of the present invention contain only one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0037] The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" means an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0038] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate functional group, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfonate functional group is selected from the group consisting of (C16-C22) alkyl sulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylamide sulfonates, (C16-C22) alkylaryl sulfonates, (C16-C22) alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl (C16-C22)-N-(C1-C6) alkyl taurates, (C16-C22) acyl isethionates, (C16-C22) alkyl sulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Preferably, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfonate functional group is selected from: - acyl isethionates, the linear or branched acyl group containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms; -N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or the cyclic group containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the alkyl group is methyl, - and mixtures thereof; It is in particular in the form of an alkali metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt, an ammonium salt or an aminoalcohol salt.

[0041] As N-acyl-N-alkyl taurates, mention may be made of the taurates produced by the company Nikkol under the name Nikkol Sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold; sodium salt of N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT by the company Nikko.

[0042] The acylglutamate may be selected from acylglutamates wherein the acyl group contains from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0043] Examples of acylglutamates that may be mentioned in particular include palmitoylglutamate, stearoylglutamate, behenoylglutamate, oleoylglutamate, and salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts (such as Na salts, Li salts or K salts, and preferably Na salts or K salts), alkaline earth metal salts (such as Mg salts) or ammonium salts of the acids.

[0044] Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds having the INCI names Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Oleoyl Glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] As acylglutamates, mention may also be made of sodium stearoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS11 by the company Ajinomoto, and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by the company Ajinomoto.

[0046] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is selected from surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH2) n SO3M, wherein R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group; Y represents -O- or -NR1-, wherein R1 represents a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group; M is selected from hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium groups and organic amines; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0047] Preferably, the anionic surfactant of general formula (I) is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, wherein M corresponds to Na.

[0048] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants as defined above comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In the composition according to the invention, the fatty alcohol (a) / anionic surfactant (b) mass ratio may be between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3 and even more preferably between 9:1 and 4:1.

[0050] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol and the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain form an alpha crystalline phase with the hydrophilic phase, also known as alpha gel. This phase can be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction, in particular at temperatures below the melting point of the alpha gel phase.

[0051] The composition according to the invention is therefore capable of forming a crystalline lamellar phase.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains at least one swollen α-crystalline phase having a swelling period greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 12 nm and even more preferably greater than or equal to 15 nm. The swelling period is defined as the sum of the thickness of the bilayer formed by the fatty alcohol (a) and the anionic surfactant (b) and the thickness of the water layer between the two leaflets, this unit being repeated several times.

[0053] According to one particular embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon-based chain of the anionic surfactant (b) and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol (a) must not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms and is preferably less than or equal to 4.

[0054] polyols The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol in a content strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Polyols are defined as organic molecules containing at least two hydroxyl (OH) functional groups.

[0056] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means: - a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or - a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by oxygen atoms and which comprises at least two hydroxyl functions, such as polyethylene glycol (PEG) containing 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0057] Preferably, the polyol has a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0058] Advantageously, the polyol comprises a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and comprises from 2 to 12 and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0059] The polyol may be selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, and panthenol.

[0060] Among these polyols, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferably selected.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the polyol comprises 2 to 12 hydroxyl functional groups, preferably 2 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups, and is in particular chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isopentyl glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0063] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol may be present in the composition in an amount of between 15.1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 18% and 45% by weight, even more preferably between 19% and 40% by weight and better still between 20% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Non-silicone oil The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil in a content greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0066] The composition according to the invention may especially comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0067] They may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0068] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0069] The term "non-silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil which does not contain any silicon atoms and in particular does not contain Si-O groups.

[0070] The oil may optionally contain oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

[0071] Hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include: - branched alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, especially C8-C 16 Alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Esters, such as isohexyl pivalate, and mixtures thereof, - straight-chain alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 26 carbon atoms and more in particular from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C 2-14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and also mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof; or mixtures of alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms (known as C15-C19 alkanes), such as the products sold by SEPPIC under the index names Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19, - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as Parleam) and squalane, and mixtures thereof, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have different chain lengths of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains being linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rose oil, meadowfoam oil, alba) seed oil (INCI name: Meadowfoam (White Meadowfoam) seed oil); or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel. Mention may also be made of coco-caprylate / caprate, for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by Cognis or under the name DUB 810C by Stéarinerie Dubois, - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as didecyl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for example duck tail sebaceous gland oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the products sold under the trade names Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or under the trade name Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the name X-Tend by the company ISP 226, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-octadeca-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyol octanoate, caprate or ricinoleate, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythritol Tetra(ethylhexanoate)); dipentaerythritol hexaoctanoate / hexacaprate; citric acid esters, such as C3-C 1-C 1-C 2-hydroxyethyl citrate; 22 Esters of tricarboxylic acids with C1-C6 alcohols, such as the products sold under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartaric acid esters, such as linear dialkyl tartarates containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale; and also linear dialkyl tartarates containing between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company; and acetates, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - esters of diol dimers and dibasic acid dimers, where appropriate esterified with acid or alcohol groups on their free alcohol or acid functions, in particular dimer linoleates; more particularly chosen from the esters with the following INCI nomenclature: Bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer linoleyl dimer (Plandool G), Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer linoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof, - fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, for example the product sold under the name Eldew SL205 by Ajinomoto, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol, -Advanced C 19 -C 22 fatty acid; Carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis.

[0072] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the non-silicone oil is chosen from branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer esters and dibasic acid dimer esters, fatty amides, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, higher C 19 -C 22 Fatty acids, carbonates, and mixtures thereof; in particular, selected from oleyl erucate, branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; more particularly selected from oleyl erucate, mixtures of alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 8% to 40% by weight, preferably from 9% to 25% by weight and even more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight of non-silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] wax The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, especially a wax of vegetable origin having a melting point above 25°C.

[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and has a reversible solid / liquid state change.

[0076] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed on the basis of thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0077] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the one sold under the name MDSC2920 by the company TA Instruments.

[0078] The measurement protocol is as follows: 5 mg of a wax sample placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature increase, the difference in energy absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the difference in energy absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0079] As waxes of vegetable origin which can be used according to the invention and have a melting point above 25° C., mention may be made of: -Carnauba wax, - candelilla wax, in particular the product reference CandelillaWax SP75G from the company Strahl & Pitsch, - lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin, propylene oxide lanolin or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof, -Rice bran wax, -ouricury wax, -Espartocarpus wax, -cork fibre wax, -Sugarcane wax, - Japan wax, -Sumac wax, -Montan wax, - orange wax, in particular the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - laurel wax, -Sunflower wax, -Lemon wax, - olive wax, -berry wax (berrywax), beeswax, in particular the product sold under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or the product sold under the name Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher, - buckwheat wax, in particular the product sold by the company Codif, - By using C 12 to C18 waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols, in particular those sold by the company Sophim under the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), - partially hydrogenated jojoba oil wax esters, - Hydrogenated jojoba oil, - isomerized jojoba oil, in particular the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-500 by the company Desert Whale, - fatty acid esters of polyglycerols, in particular mixtures of three waxes (jojoba esters and wax of sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed and extract of Acacia decurrens) with polyglycerols, in particular those marketed by the company Gattefossé under the names Hydracire S or Products sold, - hydrogenated glycerides, in particular the product sold under the name Cegesoft HF 52 by Cognis (BASF), which is a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed oil and palm oil, or the product sold under the name Softisan 100 Cremer by the company Oleo, - partially hydrogenated olive oil, in particular the compound sold under the name Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - Hydrogenated sunflower oil, - Hydrogenated castor oil, - hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, in particular Thixinr from Rheox, - Hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, - Hydrogenated palm oil, - Hydrogenated coconut oil, -Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides - waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, -Behenyl alcohol, - and / or mixtures thereof.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin having a melting point above 25°C chosen from carnauba wax, partially hydrogenated jojoba oil wax esters, hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), fatty acid esters of polyglycerols, hydrogenated cocoglycerides, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0082] According to a particular embodiment, the wax of vegetable origin according to the invention having a melting point above 25° C. is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight of hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] oil phase The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may, for example, range from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and still better still from 4% to 15% by weight.

[0085] The indicated amounts do not include the content of anionic surfactants as defined above.

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, the oily phase comprises any fatty substance present in the composition that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally an oil, or any fatty substance that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as a wax, or any pasty compound, with the exception of the fatty alcohols previously defined.

[0087] Water phase The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0088] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises at least water and a polyol as defined above. The amount of the aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and still better from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the amount of the aqueous phase may range from 50% to 92% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and still better from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water may constitute all or part of the aqueous phase and is generally at least 25% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, and still better from 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additives.

[0090] Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. The addition of such alcohols may be particularly suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or hair.

[0091] The amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention may, for example, range from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pH of the composition is between 4 and 9, and more preferably between 4.5 and 7.

[0093] Cosmetic active ingredients and adjuvants The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one further cosmetic active agent.

[0094] In the context of the present invention, the term "additional active agent" is intended to mean a compound which has biological activity itself, that is to say which does not require the intervention of an external substance for its activation.

[0095] The additional active agent may be chosen especially from: - vitamins and their derivatives (especially their esters), such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (for example tocopheryl acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3; - known anti-aging active agents, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate; retinol and its derivatives; salicylic acid compounds, and in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (octanoylsalicylic acid); caffeine; adenosine; C-β-D-xylopyranoside to the sodium salt of 2-hydroxypropane and (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid; -Sunscreen; - menthol; - and mixtures thereof.

[0096] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, fragrances, film-forming polymers, thickening polymers, pH regulators (acids or bases), preservatives, fillers, dyes, nacres, pigments and dispersants, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The additional active agent used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight or from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional further compounds and / or their amounts such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially adversely affected by the intended addition.

[0099] Cosmetic composition The compositions used according to the invention may be in any galenic form commonly used in the cosmetics field.

[0100] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not solid.

[0102] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not in the form of a stick.

[0103] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is not solid and is not in the form of a stick.

[0104] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in a non-solid galenic form, which varies in texture from a serum to a cream that can be stored in a jar.

[0105] Advantageously, the viscosity of the composition of the invention ranges between 100 cP (centipoise), i.e. 0.1 Pa.s (Pascal.seconds) (movement internal measurement 2,21 UD - fluid milk type) and 20040 cP, i.e. 20.04 Pa.s (movement internal measurement 4,85 UD - heavy cream type), measured at 25°C.

[0106] The viscosity of the composition of the present invention can be measured by any method known to a skilled person, and in particular by the following conventional method. For example, the measurement can be performed at 25°C using a ContravesTV or Rheomat RM180 equipped with a mobile device rotating at 200 rpm. A skilled person in the art can select a mobile device for measuring viscosity based on their general knowledge, for example, from the M1, M2, or M4 mobile devices, to enable the measurement.

[0107] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a gel, a white or tinted cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse.

[0108] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application.

[0109] The compositions according to the invention may comprise any ingredients normally used for the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0110] Preferably, such compositions are not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0111] The composition according to the invention may be intended for application to the skin.

[0112] Preferably, the skin is the skin of the face and / or body, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck and / or hands, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0113] As indicated, the composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0114] Alternatively, the composition may be in the form of a face and / or body care product or a cosmetic product and may be packaged, for example, as a cream in a jar or a fluid in a tube or pump bottle or dropper bottle.

[0115] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured via any known method commonly used in the cosmetics field.

[0116] The ingredients are mixed and then formed in an order and under conditions readily determined by one skilled in the art.

[0117] Uses and methods According to one of its aspects, the invention relates to the use of a composition as described above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0118] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, wherein a composition as defined in the present invention is applied to the keratin material.

[0119] The cosmetic uses and methods contemplated according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0120] The cosmetic use or method of the invention is carried out by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0121] Topical administration consists of applying the cosmetic composition externally to the skin according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0122] By way of example, the cosmetic use or method according to the invention may be carried out by topically applying (e.g. daily) at least one composition according to the invention which may be formulated, for example, in the form of a gel, white or colored cream, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, paste or foam.

[0123] According to one embodiment, administration is repeated, for example once or twice a day for one or more days, and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more interruption periods as appropriate.

[0124] According to one embodiment, administration is daily (once a day), and typically over an extended period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more interruption periods, as appropriate.

[0125] According to one embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention is applied to an area of ​​the skin that has previously been cleansed with a washing solution.

[0126] Furthermore, combinations of treatments, optionally together with topical forms, can be envisaged in order to supplement or enhance the activity of the compositions according to the invention.

[0127] It is possible to envisage topical treatment with the composition according to the invention in combination with an auxiliary composition intended for topical application, which auxiliary composition can be impregnated onto a support such as a towel.

[0128] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic method for treating keratin materials comprising: a) the step of topically applying a cleansing solution to the skin; b) a step of topically applying a composition according to the invention to the skin; and c) optionally, the step of topically applying a composition different from the composition applied in step b); Steps b) and c) may be performed simultaneously or sequentially.

[0129] Such compositions administered in step c) may be referred to as "supplementary compositions".

[0130] The washing solution may be in various forms, such as solutions, aqueous solutions, lotions, milky lotions, creams, gels, liquid gels, pastes, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, milks, emulsions (O / W or W / O form) or other forms, preferably in the form of solutions or hydrogels.

[0131] Throughout this specification, including the claims, unless otherwise specified, the terms "between and" and "ranging from to" should be understood to mean that the limits are included.

[0132] The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.

[0133] Example Materials and methods Stability measurement The stability of the composition can be assessed according to the following protocol.

[0134] The properties of the compositions to be tested were evaluated immediately after preparation or after 24 hours.

[0135] The compositions to be tested are then stored for 2 months at different temperatures: at room temperature or "RT" (about 25°C), at 4°C and at 45°C. The temperature can be regulated using an oven (eg the Bio Concept machine from Firlabo).

[0136] The properties were evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

[0137] The characteristics evaluated are: - pH of the composition (measured using a pH meter); - viscosity of the composition (measured using a viscometer (e.g. Rheomat RM 100 viscometer from Lamy Rheology) according to the CID-012-02 method); - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance assessed by observing the composition under an optical microscope at ×10 or even ×100 magnification between a slide and a cover slip; - the color and smell of the composition; and Phenomena associated with instability of the composition, such as the occurrence of creaming, coalescence, settling, flocculation, film formation on surfaces, mottling, etc., will be observed.

[0138] The closer the properties of the composition remain to those initially measured at 25°C for 24 h after storage for 1 month and / or 2 months, the more stable the composition can be considered to remain.

[0139] In particular, a composition is considered stable if it remains smooth and uniform, shows no signs of instability and exhibits no changes in color or odor.

[0140] Example 1 Compositions according to the invention (I1) and compositions outside the invention (C1) are prepared which comprise in particular a content of non-silicone oils of less than 8% by weight (in this case 5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] These compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions comprise the compounds detailed in Table 1 below in amounts expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Table 1]

[0142] Preparation plan In a tank, the components of phase A are heated to 75°C until a homogeneous medium is obtained by paddle stirring without turbine mixing. Phase A is turbine mixed at 75°C for 10 minutes (3500 rpm). The components of phase B, heated to 75°C under magnetic stirring, are added to this heated mixture while turbine mixing for 10 minutes (3500 rpm). Glycerol is added to this mixture and the resulting mixture is cooled to 40°C under stirring (3500 rpm) and vacuum. The components of phase D are then added under stirring and vacuum, followed by the components of the other phases.

[0143] Finally, a final homogenization phase was carried out under constant stirring and vacuum until a temperature of 30° C. was reached, reducing the turbine mixing if necessary.

[0144] Example 2 result Compositions I1 and C1 were evaluated for stability and sensory effects. The stability results are reported in Table 2 below. [Table 2]

[0145] In summary, only composition I1 according to the invention was stable after 2 months (whether at 4° C., room temperature or 45° C.). Specifically, it was acceptable in terms of appearance, color, odor, viscosity and pH.

[0146] Composition C1 outside the present invention failed in terms of viscosity after 2 months.

[0147] Regarding the sensory evaluation, a panel of nine experts participated in the study based on tactile and visual evaluation. The compositions were applied to the back of the hand.

[0148] Composition I1 according to the invention was found to provide good slip. Furthermore, it was described as having little stickiness and almost no soap slip.

[0149] Example 3 Preparation of compositions outside the present invention A composition (C2) outside the present invention was prepared. This composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion contained the compounds detailed in Table 3 below, expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition had a polyol content of less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Table 3]

[0150] Preparation plan The same protocol as used in Example 1 was used in this example.

[0151] Example 4 result The stability of compositions I1 and C2 was evaluated. The stability results are reported in Table 4 below. [Table 4]

[0152] In summary, only combination I1 according to the invention was stable after 2 months (whether at 4° C., room temperature or 45° C.). Specifically, it passed with respect to appearance, color, odor, viscosity and pH.

[0153] Composition C2 outside the present invention failed in terms of viscosity after 2 months.

[0154] Example 5 Preparation of the composition according to the invention Compositions (I2), (I3), (I4) and (I5) according to the invention were prepared. These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, contained the compounds detailed in Table 5 below in amounts expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Table 5]

[0155] Preparation plan The same protocol as used in Example 1 was used in this example.

[0156] Compositions (I2) to (I5) have a good level of smoothness and little stickiness, while having almost no soap slip.

Claims

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which an oil phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and preferably a C16-C18 fatty alcohol; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C16-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) at least one non-silicone oil present in an amount greater than or equal to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, The composition does not contain silicone compounds.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant contains only one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (Cetyl alcohol). 16 ), stearyl alcohol or octyl alcohol (C 18 ), or behenyl alcohol (C 22 ), which are solid at room temperature and advantageously carry chain-terminal -OH groups.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the saturated fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising C 16 Fatty alcohols and C 18 A mixture of fatty alcohols, preferably in a ratio of C 16 / C 18 mass ratio, and advantageously with a C ratio equal to 50 / 50 16 / C 18 Quality ratio.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of fatty alcohol is between 2.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 8% by weight and even more preferably between 2.7% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate functional group, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is selected from surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH2) n SO3M, wherein R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group; Y represents -O- or -NR1-, wherein R1 represents a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group; M is selected from hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium groups and organic amines; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, wherein M corresponds to Na.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain is present in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the fatty alcohol (a) / anionic surfactant (b) mass ratio is between 10 / 1 and 6 / 4, preferably between 19 / 2 and 7 / 3, and even more preferably between 9 / 1 and 4 / 1.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the polyol comprises a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol comprises 2 to 12 hydroxyl functional groups, preferably 2 to 8 hydroxyl functional groups, and is in particular chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isopentyl glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the polyol is present in an amount of between 15.1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 18% and 45% by weight, even more preferably between 19% and 40% by weight and better still between 20% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the non-silicone oil is chosen from branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially a branched chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer esters and dibasic acid dimer esters, fatty amides, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, higher C 19 -C 22 Fatty acids, carbonates, and mixtures thereof; in particular, selected from oleyl erucate, branched or linear alkanes containing more than 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; more particularly selected from oleyl erucate, mixtures of alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the non-silicone oil is present in an amount of between 8% and 40% by weight, preferably between 9% and 25% by weight and even more preferably between 10% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Cosmetic method for treating keratin materials, wherein a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to said keratin materials.

18. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 in the cosmetic field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and / or making up the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

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