Cosmetic composition and use thereof

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin to control sebum overflow, comprising at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions and / or dermatological compositions. Specifically, this invention relates to cosmetic compositions and / or dermatological compositions for topical application. Background Technology

[0002] Seborrhea, or oily skin, is a common cosmetic or dermatological problem. It occurs when oversized sebaceous glands produce excessive sebum, resulting in oily, shiny skin with visible pores and acne.

[0003] Inhibiting lipid production is one of the main ways to effectively control seborrhea. In in vitro studies, Oil Red or Nile Red staining is a common method for assessing the effect of active ingredients on lipid production. For example, isotretinoin is a well-known compound used to control seborrhea and has been reported to reduce lipid production in sebaceous gland cells (Cemil, BC, et al., 2016).

[0004] Downregulating IGF-I pharmacologically is another promising strategy for treating acne vulgaris. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), a major polyphenol fraction of green tea, has been found to have clinical efficacy as an acne treatment agent through its anti-IGF-I activity. It can inhibit IGF-1-induced lipid production and cell proliferation (Im, M., et al., 2012).

[0005] Therefore, excessive oil is undesirable from both cosmetic and dermatological perspectives, and controlling sebum production is the most challenging yet effective way to improve oily skin. Skin problems such as acne, sebum production, and enlarged pores can be addressed by restoring the skin's physiological balance through inhibiting excessive sebum production.

[0006] EP3334403A1 discloses a topical composition comprising plum leaf extract, encapsulated resveratrol, oligopeptide-1 and niacinamide, and optionally one or more of cactus fruit extract, malachite extract and / or adenosine, wherein the topical composition can reduce sebum secretion in the skin.

[0007] CN105193659A discloses an oil-controlling and acne-removing composition containing aloe vera, which includes aloe vera extract, kelp extract, etc. The composition utilizes natural plant extracts to achieve oil-controlling effects, greatly reducing sebum secretion and providing sustained effectiveness.

[0008] Existing seborrhea control technologies typically utilize chemicals or natural extracts to reduce sebum secretion. More effective technologies for seborrhea control are still needed. Summary of the Invention

[0009] This invention is based on the discovery that a combination of at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid unexpectedly exhibits a synergistic inhibitory effect on lipid production in sebaceous gland cells. Compared to the sebum-suppressing effect achieved by using either active ingredient alone, this combination further inhibits the lipid production process. This makes it possible to provide an excellent solution for controlling seborrhea and preventing acne, particularly in cosmetic or dermatological applications.

[0010] Therefore, the purpose of this invention is to provide a seborrhea control technology that can more effectively inhibit lipid production.

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that the objective of this invention can be achieved through the following aspects.

[0012] In one aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid.

[0013] According to one embodiment, the kelp extract is selected from Laminaria Saccharina extract (LS extract), Laminaria Digitata extract (LD extract), Laminaria Ochroleuca extract (LO extract), Laminaria Algae extract (LA extract), and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the kelp extract is Laminaria Saccharina extract.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the hydroxy fatty acid is a C6-C fatty acid having one or two hydroxyl groups. 24 Saturated straight-chain fatty acids. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydroxy fatty acid is a C-chain fatty acid having one hydroxyl group. 12 -C 18 Saturated straight-chain fatty acids. According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydroxy fatty acid is selected from 9-hydroxystearic acid (9-HSA), 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), 11-hydroxystearic acid (11-HSA), 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydroxy fatty acid is 10-HSA.

[0015] According to one embodiment, the weight ratio of kelp extract to hydroxy fatty acids in the cosmetic composition is equal to or greater than 1:100. According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of kelp extract to hydroxy fatty acids in the cosmetic composition is from about 1:10 to about 500:1. According to a more preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of kelp extract to hydroxy fatty acids in the cosmetic composition is from about 1:2 to about 100:1. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of kelp extract to hydroxy fatty acids in the cosmetic composition is from about 1:1 to about 40:1.

[0016] According to one embodiment, kelp extract is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.0005% by weight to about 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to a preferred embodiment, kelp extract is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.0008% by weight to about 1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to a more preferred embodiment, kelp extract is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.001% by weight to about 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0017] According to one embodiment, hydroxy fatty acids are present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.0002% by weight to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to a preferred embodiment, hydroxy fatty acids are present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.0005% by weight to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to a more preferred embodiment, hydroxy fatty acids are present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.0008% by weight to about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0018] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.001% to about 0.1% by weight of kelp extract and about 0.0008% to about 0.1% by weight of 10-HSA based on dry weight, and wherein the weight ratio of kelp extract to 10-HSA is in the range of about 1:1 to about 40:1.

[0019] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one active ingredient selected from the following: sugar derivatives, natural extracts, ferments, vitamins, urea, caffeine, salicylic acid and its derivatives, α-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, retinoids, niacinamide, humectants, sunscreens, peppermint oil, aloe vera oil or ginseng oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the method comprising:

[0021] a. Dissolve at least one kelp extract in an aqueous solvent;

[0022] b. Dissolving at least one hydroxy fatty acid in a medium to high polarity oil; and

[0023] c. Combine the solutions obtained in steps a and b to obtain the cosmetic composition.

[0024] According to a preferred embodiment, the medium to high polarity oil is selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprylate, decyl oleate, dibutyl adipate, hexyl laurate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexapineate, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] In another aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic for controlling seborrhea, comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0026] In another aspect, the present invention provides cosmetic compositions according to the invention for non-therapeutic use in controlling seborrheic dermatitis.

[0027] On the other hand, the present invention provides non-therapeutic methods for controlling seborrhea, including topical application of a cosmetic composition or cosmetic according to the invention to the skin in need.

[0028] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become clearer when reading the following detailed description and examples. Attached Figure Description

[0029] To gain a more complete understanding of the present invention, reference is now made to the following specific embodiments in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0030] Figure 1 This is a histogram showing the lipidogenesis inhibition effects of active ingredient a (LS extract) and active ingredient b (10-HSA) at different concentrations (LS extract at 0.002375% and 0.00475%; 10-HSA at 0.000625% and 0.00125%), used alone or in combination.

[0031] Figure 2 This is a histogram showing the lipidogenesis inhibition effects of active ingredient a (LS extract) and active ingredient b (10-HSA) used alone or in combination at different concentrations (LS extract 0.0095%; 10-HSA 0.000625% and 0.00125%).

[0032] Figure 3This is a histogram showing the lipidogenesis inhibition effects of active ingredient a (LS extract) and active ingredient b (10-HSA) at different concentrations (LS extract 0.0095%; 10-HSA 0.0005%), alone or in combination. Detailed Implementation

[0033] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where a definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains, the definition set forth herein shall prevail.

[0034] Except as provided in the operational embodiments, or otherwise, all figures representing the amount of components and / or conditions should be understood to be modified in all cases by the term “about” with meaning conventionally known in the art, for example, within 10% of the figures shown (e.g., “about 10%” means 9%-11%, “about 2%” means 1.8%-2.2%).

[0035] Furthermore, the scope described in this invention and the claims is intended to specifically include the entire range, not just the endpoints. For example, the 0-10 range is intended to disclose all integers between 0 and 10, such as 1, 2, 3, 4 and any subranges formed by any two of these values, all fractions between 0 and 10, such as 1.5, 2.3, 4.57, 6.1113 and any subranges formed by any two of these values, and the endpoints 0 and 10.

[0036] Unless otherwise stated, all parts or percentages in this invention refer to parts by weight or weight percentages.

[0037] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is used for topical application to the skin to control seborrhea and / or prevent acne.

[0038] Kelp extract

[0039] According to a first aspect, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one kelp extract.

[0040] The kelp extract suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may be selected from kelp extract, palmate kelp extract, wedge-shaped kelp extract, seaweed extract, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the kelp extract used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention is kelp extract.

[0041] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of kelp extract, a type of brown algae extract. One example of kelp extract is sold by Biotech Marine (Seppic), France under the trade names Phlorogine and / or Phlorogine BG. Another suitable kelp extract is available from Ennagram, France via product code HG 657. Phlorogine is known as an anti-seborrheic agent that can regulate sebaceous gland activity, as described, for example, in U.S. Application Publication No. 2008 / 0119527A1. Methods for extracting brown algae are also known. European Patent No. 1074262B1 describes methods for extracting species of brown algae and *Laminaria japonica*. These extracts are described as being used in cosmetic compositions as penetration protectants, free radical scavengers, or to combat the effects of skin aging. Commercially available kelp extracts may contain other compounds such as water, thickeners, humectants, solvents, and solubilizers. For example, Phlorogine and / or Phlorogine BG contain about 1% to about 2.5% of a dry extract (i.e., pure sugar kelp extract), with the remainder being an inert carrier.

[0042] Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain at least one kelp extract in amounts from about 0.0005% to about 5% by weight based on dry weight, from about 0.0008% to about 1% by weight in one embodiment, and from about 0.001% to about 0.1% by weight in another embodiment. For example, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the kelp extract may be present in the cosmetic composition in amounts from about 0.0005% by weight, about 0.0006% by weight, about 0.0007% by weight, about 0.0008% by weight, about 0.0009% by weight, about 0.001% by weight, about 0.005% by weight, about 0.01% by weight, about 0.0125% by weight, about 0.025% by weight, about 0.05% by weight, about 0.1% by weight, about 0.5% by weight, about 1% by weight, about 2% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 4% by weight, and about 5% by weight based on dry weight.

[0043] Appropriate use of kelp extract offers skin benefits such as moisturizing, skin soothing, regulating sebaceous gland activity, and anti-aging. When kelp extract is used in combination with at least one hydroxy fatty acid, it exhibits a particularly synergistic effect in inhibiting lipid production, thus enabling promising applications for seborrheic control.

[0044] Hydroxy fatty acids

[0045] According to a first aspect, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydroxy fatty acid.

[0046] Hydroxy fatty acids (HFAs) are valuable compounds due to their hydroxyl and carboxyl functional groups. The hydroxyl groups in HFA molecules endow fatty acids with special properties, making them more reactive and giving them important applications in cosmetics, personal care, food, dietary supplements, and pharmaceuticals. HFAs can be used in cosmetics as surfactants, emulsifiers, stabilizers, conditioning agents, and antioxidants.

[0047] The hydroxy fatty acid suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may be a C6-C fatty acid having one or two hydroxyl groups. 24 Saturated straight-chain fatty acids. Preferably, the hydroxy fatty acid suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be a C-chain fatty acid having one hydroxyl group. 12 -C 18 Saturated straight-chain fatty acids. More preferably, suitable hydroxy fatty acids may be selected from 9-hydroxystearic acid (9-HSA), 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), 11-hydroxystearic acid (11-HSA), 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the hydroxy fatty acid in the cosmetic composition used in the present invention is 10-HSA.

[0048] 10-Hydroxystearic acid (CAS: 638-26-6), also known as 10-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl group at the 10-position. According to the invention, two enantiomers can be used, with the preferred enantiomer being (R)-10-hydroxystearic acid. 10-Hydroxystearic acid can be formed from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid by dehydration and oxidation with copper chloride and peroxide. Alternatively, 10-hydroxystearic acid can be synthesized by recombinant cells that have been modified to express the gene for the molecule. The fatty acid can also be produced by Corynebacterium glutamicum grown on a medium containing glucose as the sole carbon source. As a commercially available product of 10-hydroxystearic acid, examples such as the product sold by DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. under the trade name "BEAUACTIVE" can be mentioned.

[0049] Based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain at least one hydroxy fatty acid in amounts from about 0.0002 wt% to about 5 wt%, from about 0.0005 wt% to about 0.5 wt% in one embodiment, and from about 0.0008 wt% to about 0.1 wt% in another embodiment. For example, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the hydroxy fatty acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in amounts of about 0.0002 wt%, about 0.0003 wt%, about 0.0004 wt%, about 0.0005 wt%, about 0.0006 wt%, about 0.0007 wt%, about 0.0008 wt%, about 0.0009 wt%, about 0.001 wt%, about 0.005 wt%, about 0.01 wt%, about 0.05 wt%, about 0.1 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, about 1 wt%, about 2 wt%, about 3 wt%, about 4 wt%, and about 5 wt%.

[0050] Appropriate use of hydroxy fatty acids can improve skin condition and appearance, and is particularly beneficial for anti-wrinkle, evening skin tone, reducing pore size, photoprotection, and improving skin barrier function. When hydroxy fatty acids are used in combination with at least one kelp extract, they exhibit a synergistic effect in inhibiting lipid production, thus enabling promising applications for seborrhea control.

[0051] Without being bound by any particular theory, it is believed that certain kelp extracts and hydroxy fatty acids exhibit some degree, but not a prominent, seborrhea-controlling property. The inventors unexpectedly discovered that a combination of at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid exhibits a synergistic lipidogenesis-inhibiting effect, significantly superior to the additive sebum-inhibiting effect achieved by using either active ingredient alone. This enables the provision of a more effective solution for seborrhea control and / or acne prevention, particularly in cosmetic or dermatological applications.

[0052] In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the weight ratio of kelp extract to hydroxy fatty acids can be equal to or greater than 1:100, preferably about 1:10 to about 500:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 100:1, and particularly preferably about 1:1 to about 40:1. For example, in cosmetic compositions, the weight ratio of kelp extract to hydroxy fatty acids is approximately 1:100, 1:90, 1:80, 1:70, 1:60, 1:50, 1:40, 1:30, 1:20, 1:15, 1:10, 1:9, 1:8, 1:7, 1:6, 1:5, 1:4, 1:3, 1:2, 1:1, 2:1, 3:1, 4:1, 5:1, 6:1, 7:1, 8:1, 9:1, 10:1, 15:1, 20:1, 30:1, 40:1, 50:1, 60:1, 70:1, 80:1, 90:1, 100:1, 150:1, 200:1, 250:1, 300:1, 350:1, 400:1, 450:1, or 500:1.

[0053] An appropriate ratio of kelp extract to hydroxy fatty acids is beneficial for a significant synergistic effect in inhibiting lipid production, thus enabling promising applications in seborrheic control.

[0054] Additional ingredients

[0055] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be in solid, semi-solid, or liquid form, and may be in solution, emulsion, suspension, or anhydrous form. If in solution or suspension form, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may advantageously contain no more than 95% by weight, for example, 25% to 95% by weight, 30% to 90% by weight, or 35% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. If in emulsion form, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain 5% to 90% by weight, or 10% to 80% by weight, of water and 5% to 90% by weight, or 10% to 75% by weight, of oil relative to the total weight of the composition. If in anhydrous form, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain 10% to 99% by weight of oil and 10% to 99% by weight of a curing agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Provided that the objectives of this invention can be achieved, the cosmetic composition may also contain at least one cosmetically acceptable active ingredient, such as sugar derivatives, natural extracts, ferments, vitamins, urea, caffeine, salicylic acid and its derivatives, α-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, retinoids, niacinamide, humectants, sunscreens, peppermint oil, aloe vera oil, or ginseng oil, particularly active ingredients for preventing or reducing excess sebum, acne, wrinkles, fine lines, dry skin, photoaging, and inflammation. Other cosmetically acceptable ingredients that may be mentioned include antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, thickeners, emulsifiers, sunscreens, defoamers, humectants, fragrances, surfactants, fillers, chelating agents, anionic polymers, cationic polymers, nonionic polymers, or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifiers or alkalizers, dyes, colorants, pigments or nanopigments, or any other ingredients commonly formulated into cosmetics or pharmaceuticals. Non-limiting examples of some of these ingredients are provided in the following subsections.

[0057] A. Wetting agents

[0058] The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more wetting agents. If present, their range may be from about 0.1% to 75% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 0.2% to 70%, more preferably from about 0.5% to 40%. Examples of suitable wetting agents include glycols, sugars, etc. Suitable glycols are in monomeric or polymeric form, including polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, such as PEG4-10, which is polyethylene glycol having 4-10 repeating ethylene oxide units; and C 1-6 Alkyl glycols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, etc. Suitable sugars are also suitable humectants, some of which are also polyols. Examples of such sugars include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey, inositol, maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, xylose, etc. Urea is also suitable. Preferably, the humectant used in the compositions of the present invention is C. 1-6 C is preferred 2-4 Alkyl glycols, most notably butanediol.

[0059] B. Plant extracts

[0060] The compositions of the present invention may also contain one or more plant extracts other than kelp extract. If present, the suggested range is from about 0.0001% to 20% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 0.0005% to 15%, more preferably from about 0.001% to 10%. Suitable plant extracts include extracts from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds), such as flowers, fruits, vegetables, etc., including yeast fermentation extracts, Padina Pavonica extract, Thermus Thermophilis ferment extract, Camelina Sativa seed oil, Boswellia Serrata extract, olive extract, and Acacia extract. Dealbata extract, Acer Saccharinum (sugar maple), Acidopholus, Acorus, Aesculus, Agaricus, Agave, Agrimonia, algae, Aloe, Citrus, Brassica, Cinnamon, Citrus, Apple, Blueberry, Cranberry, Peach, Pear, Lemon, Lime, Pea, Seaweed, Caffeine, Green Tea, Chamomile, Willowbark, Mulberry, and those listed in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 8th Edition, Volume 2, pages 1646-1660.Further specific examples include, but are not limited to, extracts of Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Salix Nigra, Macrocycstis Pyrifera, Pyrus Malus, Saxifraga Sarmentosa, Vitis Vinifera, Morus Nigra, Scutellaria Baicalensis, Anthemis Nobilis, Salvia Sclarea, Rosmarinus Officianalis, Citrus Limonum, Panax Ginseng, Siegesbeckia Orientalis, Fructus Mume, Ascophyllum Nodosum, Glycine Soja, beetroot extracts, Haberlea Rhodopensis, and Polygonum cuspidatum. Cuspidatum, sweet orange (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis), wine grape (Vitis Vinifera), selaginella (Selaginella Tamariscina), hops (Humulus Lupulus), citrus peel (Citrus Reticulata), pomegranate (Punica Granatum), key algae (Asparagopsis), turmeric (Curcuma Longa), morning glory (Menyanthes Trifoliata), sunflower (Helianthus Annuus), barley (Hordeum Vulgare), cucumber (Cucumis Sativus), flat-branched husk (Evernia prunastri), powdery flat-branched husk (Evernia furfuracea), Sudan kola (Kola Acuminata) and mixtures thereof.

[0061] C. Surfactants

[0062] The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more surfactants, especially in the case of an emulsion. However, such surfactants may also be used if the composition is a solution, suspension, or anhydrous composition. If present, the surfactant may range from about 0.001% to 30% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 0.005% to 25%, more preferably from about 0.1% to 20%. Suitable surfactants may be siloxanes or organic nonionic, cationic, anionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic.

[0063] Suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated alcohols or ethers formed by the reaction of alcohols with alkylene oxides (typically ethylene oxide or propylene oxide). Suitable alcohols include mono-, di-, or poly-chain short-chain (C1-C2) alcohols. 1-6 Alcohols; aromatic or aliphatic saturated or unsaturated fatty acids (C 12-40 Alcohols, or cholesterol; etc. Cholesterol is suitable, or aromatic or aliphatic saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 40, preferably about 10 to 30, more preferably about 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples include oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, etc. Examples of such components include oleyl alcohol polyether 2-100; stearyl alcohol polyether 2-100; behenyl alcohol polyether 5-30; cetearyl alcohol polyether 2-100; ceteth alcohol polyether 2-100; cholesterol polyether 2-100, where the numerical range refers to the number of repeating ethylene oxide units, for example, cetearyl alcohol polyether 2-100 refers to cetearyl alcohol polyether having 2-100 repeating ethylene oxide units. Derivatives of alkoxylated alcohols are also suitable, such as their phosphate esters. Also suitable are alkoxylated alcohols formed with mono-, di-, or poly-short-chain alcohols, such as those having about 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Examples include glucose, glycerol, or their alkylated derivatives. Examples include glycereth 2-100; glucose 2-100; methylglucose 2-100, etc. Other types of alkoxylated alcohols are suitable surfactants, including ethylene oxide polymers with different numbers of repeating EO groups, commonly referred to as PEG 12-200, such as PEG-75, which can be purchased from Dow Chemical under the trade name Carbowax PEG-3350.

[0064] Other suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated sorbitol and alkoxylated sorbitol derivatives. For example, alkoxylation, particularly ethoxylation, of sorbitol provides polyalkoxylated sorbitol derivatives. Esterification of polyalkoxylated sorbitol provides sorbitol esters, such as polysorbate esters. For example, polyalkoxylated sorbitol can be used with C 6-30 C is preferred 12-22 Fatty acid esterification. Examples of such ingredients include polysorbate 20-85, sorbitol oleate, sorbitol sesquioleate, sorbitol palmitate, sorbitol sesquiisostearate, sorbitol stearate, and so on.

[0065] Various types of surfactants based on siloxanes or silanes are also suitable. Examples include organosiloxanes substituted with ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups, such as PEG polydimethylsiloxanes, which are polyethylene glycol-substituted polydimethylsiloxanes, including those with INCI names PEG-1 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-4 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG-20 polydimethylsiloxane; and so on. Also suitable are silanes substituted with ethoxy or propoxy or both, such as various types of PEG methyl ether silanes, such as bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsiloxane; and so on. Other examples of siloxane-based surfactants include those with the generic name polydimethylsiloxane copolyol; cetyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyol; and so on.

[0066] D. Biomaterials

[0067] The compositions of the present invention may contain various types of biological materials, such as those derived from cells, fermentation materials, etc. If present, such materials may range from about 0.001% to 30% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 0.005% to 25%, more preferably from about 0.01% to 20%. Examples include fragments of cellular RNA or DNA, or probiotic microorganisms.

[0068] E. Thickener

[0069] Suitable thickeners may be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention. If present, the suggested range is from about 0.01% to 30% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to 15%.

[0070] Examples of thickeners include animal waxes, plant waxes, mineral waxes, silicone waxes, or synthetic waxes, with melting points ranging from about 30°C to 150°C. Examples of such waxes include waxes produced through Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, such as polyethylene or synthetic waxes; or various plant waxes, such as bayberry wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite, acacia wax, beeswax, ceresin, cetylester, flower wax, citrus wax, carnauba wax, jojoba wax, Japanese wax, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, rice bran wax, lanolin wax, mink wax, montan wax, bayberry wax, ouricury wax, ozokerite wax, palm kernel wax, paraffin wax, avocado wax, apple wax, shellac wax, clary wax, and spent grain wax. beeswax, grape wax, and its polyalkylene glycol derivatives (e.g., PEG6-20 beeswax or PEG-12 carnauba wax); or fatty acids or fatty alcohols, including their esters, such as tristearate, tribehenin, etc.

[0071] Silica, silicates, silylated silica, and their alkali metal or alkaline earth metal derivatives are also suitable as thickeners. These silicates and silicates usually exist in particulate form, including silica, silylated silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, etc.

[0072] Silicone elastomers can also be used as thickeners. Examples of suitable silicone elastomers for use in the compositions of the present invention may be in powder form, or dispersed or dissolved in solvents such as volatile or non-volatile silicones or silicone-compatible mediators such as paraffin hydrocarbons or esters. Examples of silicone elastomer powders include vinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinked polymers, such as Shin-Etsu's KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, and KSP-105; fluoroalkyl mixed silicone powders, such as Shin-Etsu's KSP-200, which is a fluorosilicone elastomer; and phenyl mixed silicone powders, such as Shin-Etsu's KSP-300, which is a phenyl-substituted silicone elastomer; and Dow Corning's DC9506. Examples of silicone elastomer powders dispersed in silicone compatibility media include polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymers supplied by various suppliers, including Dow Corning Corporation under the trade names 9040 or 9041, GE Silicones under the trade name SFE 839, and Shin-Etsu Silicones under the trade names KSG-15, KSG-16, and KSG-18. The CTFA name for KSG-15 is cyclopentylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer. The INCI name for KSG-18 is phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane / phenyl vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer. Silicone elastomers are also available under the trademark Gransil from Grant Industries. Silicone elastomers having long-chain alkyl substituents are also suitable, such as lauryl polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers supplied by Shin Etsu under the trade names KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44. Crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers and methods for their preparation, which can be used in this invention, are further described in U.S. Patent No. 4,970,252, issued November 13, 1990, by Sakuta et al.; U.S. Patent No. 5,760,116, issued June 2, 1998, by Kilgour et al.; U.S. Patent No. 5,654,362, issued August 5, 1997, by Schulz, Jr. et al.; and Japanese Patent Application JP 61-18708, assigned to Pola Kasei Kogyo KK, each of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

[0073] Polysaccharides can be suitable aqueous thickeners. Examples of such polysaccharides include naturally derived materials such as agar, agarose, alicaligenes polysaccharide, alginate, alginic acid, gum arabic, amylopectin, chitin, dextran, cinnamon gum, cellulose gum, gelatin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, pectin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pectin, trehalose, gelatin, and so on.

[0074] Different types of synthetic polymer thickeners are also suitable. One type includes acrylic polymer thickeners composed of monomers A and B, wherein A is selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof; and B is selected from acrylic acid C. 1-22 Alkyl esters, C methacrylic acid 1-22 Alkyl esters and mixtures thereof. Acrylic polymer solutions include those produced by Seppic, Inc. under the trade name... Those sold or under the product name Those that are sold. Acrylic (ester) / stearyl polyether-20 methacrylate copolymer is also suitable, which is sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade name Acrysol ICS-1.

[0075] Equally suitable are acrylate-based anionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit containing an aliphatic chain. This type of anionic amphiphilic polymer is described and prepared in U.S. Patents 4,677,152 and 4,702,844, both of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. A commercial example of such polymers is a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, stearyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (having 10 EO units) ether, or stearyl alcohol polyether-10, particularly those marketed by Allied Colloids under the names SALCARESC80 and SALCARESC90, which are aqueous emulsions containing 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and stearyl alcohol polyether-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0076] Also suitable are acrylate copolymers, such as polyacrylate-3, which is a copolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, methyl styrene isopropyl isocyanate and PEG-40 behenate monomers; polyacrylate-10, which is a copolymer of sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, sodium acrylate, acrylamide and vinylpyrrolidone monomers; or polyacrylate-11, which is a copolymer of sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, sodium acrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl acrylate, butyl acrylate and acrylamide monomers.

[0077] Also suitable are acrylate-based crosslinked polymers, wherein one or more acrylate groups may have substituted long-chain alkyl groups (e.g., 6-40, 10-30, etc.), such as acrylates / acrylate C. 10-30 Alkyl ester crosslinking polymer, which is acrylic acid C 10-30 A copolymer of alkyl esters and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or simple esters thereof, crosslinked with allyl ether of sucrose or allyl ether of pentaerythritol. Such polymers are commonly marketed under the trade names Carbopol or Pemulen and have the CTFA name carbomer.

[0078] A suitable type of aqueous thickener is an acrylate polymer thickener sold by Clariant under the trademark Aristoflex, such as Aristoflex AVC, which is an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer; Aristoflex AVL, which is the same polymer found in AVC dispersed in a mixture containing caprylic / capric triglyceride, trilauryl polyether-4 and polyglycerol-2 sesquiisostearate; or Aristoflex HMB, which is an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / behenol polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, etc.

[0079] Also suitable as thickeners are various polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivatives with a degree of polymerization ranging from 1,000 to 200,000. These components are indicated by the name "PEG" followed by thousands of degrees of polymerization, such as PEG-45M, which refers to PEG with 45,000 repeating ethylene oxide units. Examples of suitable PEG derivatives include PEG 2M, 5M, 7M, 9M, 14M, 20M, 23M, 25M, 45M, 65M, 90M, 115M, 160M, 180M, and so on.

[0080] Also suitable are polyglycerols with repeating glycerol moieties, wherein the number of repeating moieties ranges from 15 to 200, preferably from about 20 to 100. Examples of suitable polyglycerols include those with CTFA names such as polyglycerol-20, polyglycerol-40, etc.

[0081] F. Oil

[0082] When the compositions of the present invention are in the form of a solution, suspension, anhydrous form, or especially an emulsion, the compositions may contain an oil component. Suitable oils include silicone oils, esters, vegetable oils, and synthetic oils.

[0083] Preferably, the oils described herein may have a certain degree of polarity. Polarity is a measure of the uneven distribution of electrons in a molecule. Depending on the atomic content and / or structure of the molecule, different molecules may have different levels of polarity. Polar oils may contain charged molecules with different electronegativity. This generates a dipole moment. Typical polar oils are fatty alcohols, esters, and triglycerides.

[0084] Preferably, the oils described herein may contain a small number of charged molecules, which may be referred to herein as having low polarity. Non-limiting examples of suitable low-polarity oils may include, for example, mineral oils, triglyceride oils, squalane, tocopherols or derivatives thereof, avocado oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, olive oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, octyl dodecanoate, decyl oleate, or combinations thereof.

[0085] More preferably, the oils described herein may contain charged molecules, which may be referred to herein as having moderate and / or high polarity. Moderate to high polarity oils are ideal solvents for hydroxy fatty acids and are therefore particularly suitable for the compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of suitable moderate to high polarity oils may include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprylate, decyl oleate, dibutyl adipate, hexyl laurate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexapineate, or combinations thereof. Preferably, the moderate to high polarity oil is selected from ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexapineate, and mixtures thereof. The moderate to high polarity oil may advantageously be present in an amount not exceeding 5%, for example 0.1% to 2%, or 0.5% to 1%, by weight of the total composition.

[0086] According to some implementation schemes, the oil may include a combination of low-polarity oils and medium to high-polarity oils.

[0087] Other examples of suitable oils include castor oil, lanolin oil, and C. 10-18Triglycerides, caprylic / capric / triglycerides, sweet almond oil, almond oil, flaxseed oil, tamanu seed oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, flaxseed oil, black oil, olive oil, palm oil, sage oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, walnut oil, etc. Also suitable are glyceryl stearate, diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 isostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-6 ricinoleate, dioleoyl glyceride, diisostearate, tetraisostearate, tricaprylic acid glyceride, distearate, linoleic acid glyceride, myristate glyceride, isostearate, PEG castor oil, PEG oleate glyceride, PEG stearate glyceride, PEG tallow glyceride, etc. Silicone oils are also suitable, such as polydimethylsiloxane, ammonia-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, or alkyl polydimethylsiloxane such as cetyl polydimethylsiloxane. Phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane can be purchased from Dow Corning Corporation under the trade name 556 Fluid. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl polydimethylsiloxane can be purchased from Wacker-Chemie under the trade name PDM-1000. Cetyl polydimethylsiloxane, also known as liquid silicone wax, can be purchased from Dow Corning under Fluid 2502, or from DeGussa Care & Surface Specialties under the trade names Abil Wax 9801 or 9814.

[0088] G. Sunscreen

[0089] It may also be desirable to include one or more sunscreens in the compositions of the present invention. Such sunscreens include chemical UVA or UVB sunscreens or physical sunscreens in particulate form. Adding a sunscreen to a composition containing a whitening active ingredient will provide additional protection for the skin during the day and enhance the effectiveness of the whitening active ingredient on the skin. If present, the sunscreen may range from about 0.1% to 50% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 0.5% to 40%, more preferably from about 1% to 35%.

[0090] Examples of suitable UVA sunscreen compounds include 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, etc. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, also known as avobenzone, is particularly preferred. Avobenzone can be trademarked. 1789 purchased from Givaudan-Roure and under the trade name 9020 was purchased from Merck & Co. Other types of UVA sunscreens include dicamphor sulfonic acid derivatives, such as ecamsule, a product marketed under the brand name... The sunscreen agent sold is terephthaloyl dicamphor sulfonic acid.

[0091] The composition may contain about 0.001-20%, preferably 0.005-5%, more preferably about 0.005-3% of a UVA sunscreen agent by weight of the composition.

[0092] Examples of suitable UVB sunscreen compounds include α-cyano-β,β-diphenylacrylate as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,215,724, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. A specific example of α-cyano-β,β-diphenylacrylate is Octocrylene, which is 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate. If present, a suitable amount is about 0.001-10% by weight. Octocrylene may be marketed under the trade name... N-539 was purchased from BASF.

[0093] Other suitable UVB sunscreens include benzylidene camphor derivatives as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,781,417, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, such as 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, a fat-soluble UVB sunscreen compound marketed by Merck under the trade name Eusolex 6300. Also suitable are cinnamic acid ester derivatives, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, also known as octoxinate or octyl methoxycinnamate. This compound can be marketed under trade names... MCX was purchased from Givaudan Corporation, or under the trade name. The MC 80 was purchased from BASF.

[0094] Also suitable as UVB sunscreens are mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamine derivatives of these methoxycinnamates, including diethanolamine methoxycinnamate. Cinoxate, aromatic ether derivatives of the above compounds, are also acceptable. If present, the amount of cinoxate should not exceed about 3% by weight of the total composition.

[0095] Various benzophenone derivatives, such as benzophenone-3 (also known as hydroxybenzophenone), benzophenone-4 (also known as sulfoisobenzophenone), and benzophenone-5 (sodium sulfoisobenzophenone), are also suitable as UVB sunscreens.

[0096] Also suitable as UVB sunscreen agents are certain salicylic acid menthyl ester derivatives, such as homomenthyl salicylate (also known as homosalyl ester) or anthranilyl benzoate. Homosalyl ester can be trademarked. HMS purchased it from Merck, and menthyl anthranilate can be trademarked. Purchased commercially from Haarmann & Reimer. If present, the amount of homosalate should not exceed about 15% by weight of the total composition.

[0097] Various aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such as PABA, ethylhexyldimethylPABA (Padimate O), and ethyl dihydroxypropylPABA, are also suitable as UVB sunscreens. If present, the amount of Padimate O should not exceed about 8% by weight of the total composition.

[0098] Salicylate derivatives are also acceptable UVB sunscreens. These compounds include octyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate, DEA-salicylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] If present, the amount of UVB chemical sunscreen agent may be about 0.001-45% by weight of the total composition, preferably 0.005-40%, more preferably about 0.01-35%.

[0100] If desired, the compositions of the present invention can be formulated to have certain SPF (sunscreen factor) values, ranging from about 1 to 50, preferably about 2 to 45, and most preferably about 5 to 30. The calculation of SPF values ​​is well known in the art.

[0101] H. Vitamins

[0102] It may be desirable to incorporate one or more vitamins into the compositions of the present invention. If present, the suggested range is from about 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 0.005% to 15%, more preferably from about 0.010% to 10%. Preferably, such vitamins and / or vitamin derivatives are operable to scavenge free radicals in the form of singlet oxygen. Such vitamins may include tocopherols or derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl ferulic acid ester, tocopheryl polyether-5, tocopheryl polyether-10, tocopheryl polyether-12, tocopheryl polyether-18, tocopheryl polyether-50, tocophersolan, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopheryl succinate, dioleoyl tocopheryl methylsilanol; ascorbic acid or derivatives thereof, such as palmitic ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate phosphate; vitamin A or derivatives thereof, such as retinyl palmitate; or vitamins D, K, B or derivatives thereof.

[0103] I. Antioxidants

[0104] Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include acetylcysteine, ascorbic acid polypeptide, ascorbate dipalmitate, ascorbate methylsilanol pectate, ascorbate palmitate, ascorbate stearate, BHA, BHT, tert-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine ​​hydrochloride, dipentylhydroquinone, di-tert-butylhydroquinone, diceryl thiodipropionate, disodium ascorbate sulfate, distearate thiodipropionate, ditridecyl thiodipropionate, gallate dodecyl ester, isoascorbic acid, ascorbate ester, ethyl ferulic acid, ferulic acid, gallate, hydroquinone, isooctyl mercaptoacetate, and kojic acid. (acid), magnesium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural plant antioxidants (such as green tea or grape seed extract), nordihydroguaiac acid, octyl gallate, phenyl mercaptoacetic acid, potassium sulfite, propyl gallate, quinone, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite, sodium isoascorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxide dismutase, sodium mercaptoacetate, sorbitol furfural, thiodiethylene glycol, thiodiacetamide, thiodiacetic acid, mercaptoacetic acid, mercaptolactic acid, thiosalicylic acid, and tris(nonylphenyl) phosphite.

[0105] J. Preservatives

[0106] Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives, such as polyquaternary ammonium salt-1 and benzalkonium halide (e.g., benzalkonium chloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g., methylparaben and propylparaben), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal, or combinations thereof.

[0107] K. Pigments or nano-pigments

[0108] Pigments are intended to impart a certain color to the composition before and / or after application to the skin, lips, and / or body growths. It may be desirable to incorporate one or more pigments into the compositions of the present invention. If present, the suggested range is from about 0.01% to 50% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 1% to 25%, more preferably from about 2% to 15%. Examples of pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be in the form of powders, granules, or microspheres, or dispersed or dissolved in a solvent. These pigments may be lakes, inorganic or organic pigments and / or pearlescent pigments or colorants. Preferred inorganic pigments are, for example, oxides of titanium, zirconium, or cerium, and oxides of zinc, iron, or chromium, and iron blue. Preferred organic pigments are, for example, carbon black and barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum lakes. Preferred pearlescent agents are, for example, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride, such as colored titanium oxide-coated mica.

[0109] "Nano pigment" refers to a pigment in which the average size of the basic particles is 5 to 100 nm. Preferably, the average size of the basic particles of the nano pigment of the present invention is 10 to 50 nm.

[0110] Those skilled in the art can select the amounts of these ingredients based on the end use of the cosmetic composition. As will be understood by those skilled in the art, compositions according to the invention may contain one or more additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients in total of about 20% to 98%, preferably about 30% to 90%, more preferably about 40% to 80% by weight of the composition.

[0111] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be in the form of liquid, lotion, thickened lotion, gel, cream, milk, ointment, paste, powder, makeup, or solid tube stick, and may optionally be packaged as an aerosol, and may be provided in the form of mousse (e.g., aerosol mousse), foam or spray foam, spray, stick, gel, plaster, powder, cleanser, soap, or aerosol or wipe.

[0112] Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are topical compositions, which are in the form of suspensions or dispersions in solvents or fatty substances, or in the form of emulsions or microemulsions (especially O / W or W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), PET-emulsions, multiple emulsions, pickingering emulsions, hydrogels, alcohol gels, lipogels, single-phase or multi-phase solutions or vesicle dispersions, and other commonly used compositions. They can also be applied as pens, as masks, or as sprays. The emulsions may also contain anionic, nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants. Preferred compositions according to the present invention are skin care formulations, hair care formulations, or functional formulations.

[0113] The amount of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to be applied to the skin depends on the concentration of the active ingredient in the composition and the desired cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect. For example, application may be by applying a cream to the skin. Typically, it is 2 mg cream / cm³. 2 The amount of cream applied to the skin is not critical, and if a certain amount of the applied composition does not achieve the desired effect, a higher concentration of the active ingredient can be used, for example, by applying more of the composition or by applying a composition containing more active ingredients. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably applied at least once daily, for example, twice or three times daily.

[0114] For information on the types of cosmetic compositions, their preparation, and other suitable additives, please refer to relevant literature, such as Novak GA, Die Kosmetischen. -Band 2,Diekosmetischen - Rezeptur, Rohstoffe, wissenschaftliche Grundlagen (Verlag für Chem. Industrie H. Ziolkowski KG, Augsburg).

[0115] Methods and uses

[0116] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid, comprising:

[0117] a. Dissolve at least one kelp extract in an aqueous solvent;

[0118] b. Dissolving at least one hydroxy fatty acid in a medium to high polarity oil; and

[0119] c. Combine the solutions obtained in steps a and b to obtain the cosmetic composition.

[0120] Preferably, the aqueous solvent may contain water, and more preferably contains at least 50% by weight, or at least 75% by weight, or at least 90% by weight, or at least 97% by weight, or at least 99% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solvent. Optionally, in addition to water, the aqueous solvent may also contain one or more water-miscible solvents selected from monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol, particularly denatured ethanol; diols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol (e.g., 1,3-propanediol), and butanediol (e.g., 1,3-butanediol), and mixtures thereof. The aqueous solvent may contain less than 50% by weight, or less than 25% by weight, or less than 10% by weight, or less than 3% by weight, or less than 1% by weight of water-miscible solvent relative to the total weight of the aqueous solvent.

[0121] Preferably, the medium to high polarity oil is selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprylate, decyl oleate, dibutyl adipate, hexyl laurate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexapineate, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexapineate, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a method for controlling seborrhea, inhibiting lipid production processes, reducing sebum production in the skin, inhibiting lipid production in sebaceous gland cells of the skin, improving lipid levels in sebaceous gland cells of the skin, treating excessive sebum secretion and / or treating acne (or acne-prone) skin, said method comprising topically applying a cosmetic composition comprising at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid to the skin in need.

[0123] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of cosmetic compositions comprising at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid for controlling seborrhea, inhibiting lipid production processes, reducing sebum production in the skin, inhibiting lipid production in sebaceous gland cells of the skin, improving lipid levels in sebaceous gland cells of the skin, treating excessive sebum secretion and / or treating acne (or acne-prone) skin.

[0124] The invention will be further described in conjunction with the following embodiments, which are presented for illustrative purposes and are not intended to be limiting in nature.

[0125] Example

[0126] The following examples are given for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

[0127] The main raw materials used, their product names, and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0128] Table 1. Raw Materials

[0129]

[0130]

[0131] Sample preparation

[0132] Preparation of 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA) samples

[0133] 1 g of 10-HSA powder (Beauactive, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd., purity ≥99.0%) was dissolved in 9 mL of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO, Macklin Inc.) under vortexing until completely dissolved, forming a 10% stock solution. This stock solution was stored at 4°C. Then, on the day of treatment, it was diluted to 0.000625% or 0.00125% with complete cell culture medium.

[0134] Preparation of sugar kelp extract (LS extract) samples

[0135] 1 g of Phlorogine (Seppic, containing 1.9% dry LS extract and the remainder inert carrier) was dissolved in 9 mL of purified water under vortexing until completely dissolved, forming a 10% stock solution. The stock solution was filtered and stored at 4°C. Then, on the day of treatment, it was diluted with complete cell culture medium to 0.125%, 0.25%, or 0.5% (corresponding to 0.002375%, 0.00475%, or 0.0095% of the LS extract).

[0136] Seborrhea Control Efficacy Test Method

[0137] 1. Cell Culture

[0138] In a 5% CO2 humidified incubator at 37°C, supplemented with 10% fetal bovine serum (Corning), 1 mM CaCl2, 5 ng / ml recombinant human epidermal growth factor (Pufei, China), and 1% Antibiotic-Antimycotic (Gibco)... TM Thermo Fisher Scientific Immortalized SZ95 human sebaceous gland cells derived from human facial sebaceous glands were cultured in basal medium (Sigma-Aldrich) (Zouboulis et al., 1999). The medium was changed every other day, and the cells were passaged at 60-80% confluence.

[0139] 2. Cell treatment

[0140] Then use TrypLE TM Cells were isolated using Express (Gibco) and seeded at a density of 10,000 cells / well into 96-well black / clear substrates (PE View plates). Cells were maintained overnight at 37°C and 5% CO2 in supplemented human sebaceous gland cell growth medium (Sigma, FB205). Cells were then treated for 72 hours with 10-HSA samples (0.000625%, 0.00125% in supplemented human sebaceous gland cell growth medium), LS extract samples (0.002375%, 0.00475%, 0.0095% in supplemented human sebaceous gland cell growth medium), or a combination of both.

[0141] 3. Lipid production inhibition rate (%)

[0142] After culture, cells were washed twice with DPBS buffer, and all cells were fixed in 4% paraformaldehyde for 5 minutes. Then, 100 μl of 1 μg / ml Nile Red (Sigma-Aldrich) phosphate-buffered saline solution was added to each well, and the cells were incubated at 37°C for 20 minutes. Fluorescence was measured on an Operetta CLS high-content imaging system (PE). Results are expressed as relative fluorescence units per cell. Neutral lipids were determined using an excitation wavelength of 485 nm and an emission wavelength of 565 nm, and polar lipids were determined using an excitation wavelength of 540 nm and an emission wavelength of 620 nm (Alestas et al., 2005). Nuclear DNA was labeled with DAPI (Invitrogen). Relative lipid production values ​​were calculated using the following equation:

[0143] Relative lipid production value % = (mean fluorescence intensity value) 活性物 / average fluorescence intensity value 对照 )×100%

[0144] Lipid production inhibition rate = 1 - relative lipid production value %

[0145] The synergistic effect of the experimental results was evaluated by the isobole method as described in the article titled "Synergistic Effects of Plant Derivatives and Conventional Chemotherapeutic Agents: An Update on the Cancer Perspective", Medicina (Kaunas). 2019; 55(4): 110, which is incorporated herein in its entirety. According to the isobole method, OE represents the observed effect, and da and db represent the doses or concentrations of active agent a and active agent b, respectively. Thus, OE(da, db) represents the effect observed for the combination of active agent a at da and active agent b at db; OE(da) represents the effect observed for active agent a at da, OE(db) represents the effect observed for active agent b at db, and three mathematical equations can be derived:

[0146] OE(da, db) = OE(da) + OE(db) (Equation 1)

[0147] OE(da, db) > OE(da) + OE(db) (Equation 2)

[0148] OE(da, db) < OE(da) + OE(db) (Equation 3)

[0149] If the observed effect satisfies Equation (1), the effects of the two active agents are a simple sum of the individual effects, and the two active agents do not interact, so there is no synergistic effect.

[0150] If the observed effect satisfies Equation (2), the result represents a true synergistic effect (or potentiation effect), where the effects of the two active agents are greater than the simple sum of the individual effects.

[0151] Synergy ratio = (OE(da, db) - (OE(da) + OE(db)) / (OE(da) + OE(db)) × 100%

[0152] If the observed effect satisfies Equation (3), the result represents the opposite effect of the synergistic effect, because the effects of the two active agents are less than the simple sum of the individual effects.

[0153] The results of seborrhea control efficacy are shown in Figure 1-3As shown in Tables 2-4, active ingredients a (LS extract) and b (10-HSA) used in different concentrations and ratios exhibit a synergistic effect in inhibiting lipid production. Results in the same table represent experiments conducted on the same day using the same batch of cells. The synergistic effect between the LS extract and 10-HSA enables excellent seborrheic control at lower active ingredient concentrations.

[0154] Table 2. Seborrheic control efficacy of Examples 1-8

[0155]

[0156] Table 3. Seborrheic control efficacy of Examples 9-13

[0157]

[0158]

[0159] *Note: Due to different cell batches, the lipid production inhibition rate data may differ from the data in Examples 3 or 4 in Table 2.

[0160] Table 4. Seborrheic control efficacy of Examples 14-16

[0161]

[0162] *Note: Due to different cell batches, the lipid production inhibition rate data differs from the data in Example 9 of Table 3.

[0163] formulation

[0164] Examples 17-21 were prepared according to the formulations shown in Table 5. Taking the preparation of Example 18 as an example, several prototype formulations were prepared on a laboratory scale using a speed mixer using the following methods:

[0165] 1. Weigh the oil phase containing 10-HSA, PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol and caprylic / capric triglyceride, and heat the oil phase at 85°C until it is completely melted;

[0166] 2. Add the molten oil phase obtained in step 1 to water at 85°C and homogenize for 10 minutes;

[0167] 3. Add xanthan gum and carbomer to the homogenized mixture, continue to homogenize the resulting mixture, and then cool to 30°C while stirring;

[0168] 4. Phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate are added to the further homogenized mixture while stirring; and

[0169] 5. Add the sugar kelp extract and citric acid to the resulting mixture, then mix well and remove.

[0170] Table 5. Formulations for Examples 17-21

[0171]

[0172]

[0173] Although the invention and its advantages have been described in detail, it should be understood that various changes, substitutions, and modifications can be made herein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims. Furthermore, the scope of this application is not intended to be limited to the specific embodiments of the processes, apparatus, preparations, compositions of matter, devices, methods, and steps described in the specification. As will be readily understood by those skilled in the art from the invention, according to the invention, existing or later-developed processes, apparatus, preparations, compositions of matter, devices, methods, or steps can be utilized to perform substantially the same functions or achieve substantially the same results as the corresponding embodiments described herein. Therefore, the appended claims are intended to include such processes, apparatus, preparations, compositions of matter, devices, methods, or steps within their scope.

[0174] References:

[0175] Cemil BC, et al. Effects of isotretinoin on body mass index, serumadiponectin, leptin, and ghrelin levels in acne vulgaris patients. PostyDermatol Alergol. 2016; 33(4):294-299.

[0176] Im, M., et al. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate suppresses IGF-I-induced lipogenesis and cytokine expression in SZ95 sebocytes. J Invest Dermatol. 2012;132(12):2700-2708.

[0177] Alestas,T.,et al.Enzymes involved in the biosynthesis of leukotrieneB4 and prostaglandin E2 are active in sebaceous glands.Journal of MolecularMedicine.2005;84(1):75-87.

[0178] Pezzani R,et al.Synergistic Effects of Plant Derivatives andConventional Chemotherapeutic Agents:An Update on the Cancer Perspective,Medicina(Kaunas).2019;55(4):110

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising at least one kelp extract and at least one hydroxy fatty acid.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the kelp extract is selected from kelp extract, palmate kelp extract, wedge-shaped kelp extract, seaweed extract, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the kelp extract is kelp extract.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxy fatty acid is a C6-C fatty acid having one or two hydroxyl groups. 24 Saturated straight-chain fatty acids; preferably, the hydroxy fatty acid is a C-type fatty acid having one hydroxyl group. 12 -C 18 Saturated straight-chain fatty acids; more preferably, the hydroxy fatty acid is selected from 9-hydroxystearic acid (9-HSA), 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), 11-hydroxystearic acid (11-HSA), 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) and mixtures thereof; particularly preferably, the hydroxy fatty acid is 10-HSA.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the weight ratio of the kelp extract to the hydroxy fatty acid in the cosmetic composition is equal to or greater than 1:100, preferably about 1:10 to about 500:1, more preferably about 1:2 to about 100:1, and particularly preferably about 1:1 to about 40:

1.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-4, wherein the kelp extract is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.0005% by weight to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.0008% by weight to about 1% by weight, more preferably about 0.001% by weight to about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-5, wherein the hydroxy fatty acid is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.0002% by weight to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.0005% by weight to about 0.5% by weight, more preferably about 0.0008% by weight to about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.001% to about 0.1% by weight of kelp extract and about 0.0008% to about 0.1% by weight of 10-HSA based on dry weight, and wherein the weight ratio of kelp extract to 10-HSA is in the range of about 1:1 to about 40:

1.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one active ingredient selected from: sugar derivatives, natural extracts, ferments, vitamins, urea, caffeine, salicylic acid and its derivatives, α-hydroxy acids and their derivatives, retinoids, niacinamide, humectants, sunscreens, peppermint oil, aloe vera oil or ginseng oil, and mixtures thereof.

9. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-8, comprising: a. Dissolve at least one kelp extract in an aqueous solvent; b. Dissolve at least one hydroxy fatty acid in a medium to high polarity oil; as well as c. Combine the solutions obtained in steps a and b to obtain the cosmetic composition.

10. The method of claim 9, wherein the medium to high polarity oil is selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprylate, decyl oleate, dibutyl adipate, hexyl laurate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexapineate, and mixtures thereof.

11. A cosmetic for controlling seborrhea, comprising a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-8.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-8 for non-therapeutic use in controlling seborrheic dermatitis.

13. A non-therapeutic treatment for seborrheic control, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-8 or a cosmetic according to claim 11.

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