Composition with whitening, tightening and dull yellow improving effects and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention provides a composition with whitening, tightening and dull yellow improving effects and a preparation method thereof, the composition comprises raw materials such as nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, biological tightening peptide and the like, and auxiliary components such as grape seed extract, modified hyaluronic acid and the like can also be added. The biological tightening peptide is prepared from palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and acetyl hexapeptide-8 according to a specific ratio. The preparation method comprises the steps of water phase preparation, active component dispersion, bioactive component addition, homogeneous stabilization and the like. Experiments show that the composition can efficiently inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis and promote generation of elastin and collagen, is high in oxidation resistance and good in transdermal absorption effect, can be used for preparing cosmetics and has a good application prospect.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, and in particular to a composition having whitening, firming and improving effects on dullness and yellowing, and a method for preparing the same. Background Technology

[0002] In the contemporary skincare industry, consumers have increasingly diversified needs for skincare product efficacy, especially for comprehensive products that combine whitening, firming, and improving dullness. However, existing products on the market still face numerous technological bottlenecks, making it difficult to meet users' demands for efficient, safe, and stable skincare.

[0003] In terms of whitening efficacy, existing products mostly rely on a single active ingredient to work. For example, vitamin C derivatives focus on reducing melanin, and niacinamide focuses on blocking melanin transport. However, these single-mechanism whitening ingredients often have limitations: on the one hand, they only target a certain link in the melanin production pathway and cannot comprehensively inhibit the entire process of melanin synthesis, transport, and deposition, resulting in slow and short-lasting whitening effects; on the other hand, increasing the concentration of a single ingredient in pursuit of better results can easily cause adverse reactions such as skin irritation and redness, and is especially unsuitable for people with sensitive skin. In addition, some natural whitening ingredients have insufficient purity of active ingredients due to crude extraction processes, further weakening their whitening efficacy.

[0004] Regarding firming effects, existing products contain two main problems with active ingredients such as collagen and peptides: First, poor compatibility. Most peptides are fat-soluble, while collagen and other ingredients are water-soluble. When mixed, they are prone to layering and precipitation, leading to system instability and affecting product shelf life. Second, low transdermal absorption efficiency. Large-molecule collagen has difficulty penetrating the stratum corneum, and peptides are also hindered by the skin barrier, remaining only in the epidermis and unable to reach the dermis to promote collagen synthesis. This limits the firming effect to the surface and fails to improve deep skin laxity.

[0005] To address the need for improving dullness and yellowing skin, existing products generally have deficiencies in their antioxidant systems. Dullness and yellowing skin are primarily caused by cellular oxidative stress resulting from the accumulation of free radicals. However, existing products often use single antioxidant ingredients, which have limited scope for scavenging free radicals and are easily oxidized and inactivated, failing to maintain their antioxidant effects in the long term. Furthermore, the synergistic effect of antioxidant ingredients with other active ingredients is often overlooked, leading to overall low antioxidant efficacy and making it difficult to improve dull skin tone at its root.

[0006] Furthermore, existing preparation processes also limit the effectiveness of the products. Traditional emulsification processes struggle to achieve uniform dispersion of active ingredients, leading to excessively high local concentrations of some components that can cause irritation; fat-soluble ingredients, due to their low solubility, are often added directly in powder form, resulting in a bioavailability of less than 10%; water-soluble ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, without modification, have poor transdermal absorption and can only form a moisturizing film on the skin surface, unable to participate in deep skincare. Summary of the Invention

[0007] Therefore, the present invention proposes a composition with whitening, firming and improving dullness effects and a method for preparing the same, thereby solving the above problems.

[0008] The technical solution of this invention is achieved as follows: A composition with whitening, firming and improving dullness effects, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 3-8 parts niacinamide, 1-5 parts tranexamic acid, 0.5-3 parts licorice root extract, 0.5-6 parts bio-firming peptide, 2-10 parts hydrolyzed collagen, 2-6 parts ascorbate glucoside, 1-4 parts tea polyphenols, 0.5-3 parts curcumin nanoliposomes, 1-5 parts lecithin, 40-60 parts water, and 5-15 parts glycerol. The curcumin nanoliposomes are prepared by dissolving curcumin and lecithin in anhydrous ethanol at a mass ratio of 1:6-1:8, removing the solvent by rotary evaporation to form a film, adding phosphate buffer solution at pH 7.2, and ultrasonically treating with 200-400W for 8-12 minutes to obtain curcumin nanoliposomes with a particle size of 50-200nm.

[0009] Furthermore, the bio-firming peptides include palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, in a weight ratio of (0.1-2):(0.5-1):(2-3).

[0010] Furthermore, the extraction of the licorice root extract is obtained by low-temperature directional extraction, specifically including: a) Pretreatment: Glycyrrhiza glabra root is pulverized to 80-120 mesh and ultrasonically cleaned for 20 minutes at 45-50℃ with an ethanol aqueous solution containing 0.1-0.3% w / v citric acid to remove pigment impurities; b) Supercritical CO2 directed extraction: extraction temperature 35-45℃, pressure 18-22MPa, CO2 flow rate 15-25L / h, extraction time 2-3 hours. c) Purification: After collecting the extract, it was filtered through a 0.22 μm ceramic membrane and then purified by reversed-phase C18 column chromatography to obtain a licorice root extract with a glycyrrhizin A content ≥98%.

[0011] Furthermore, it also contains the following auxiliary active ingredients in parts by weight: 0.5-3 parts grape seed extract, 0.1-1 parts resveratrol, 0.5-3 parts modified hyaluronic acid, 0.8-1.5 parts ferulic acid nanocrystals, and 0.5-2.5 parts phycocyanin-zinc chelate.

[0012] Furthermore, the grape seed extract is prepared by pulverizing grape seeds to 120-150 mesh, adding 50-70% ethanol solution at a material-to-liquid ratio of 1:8-1:12, adding 0.5-1% of a complex enzyme by weight of grape seeds, enzymatically hydrolyzing at 40-50℃ for 1-2 hours, followed by ultrasonic-assisted extraction at 60-70℃ for 30-45 minutes, centrifuging the extract, collecting the supernatant, purifying it through a macroporous adsorption resin (model AB-8), collecting the eluent and freeze-drying it under vacuum to obtain a grape seed extract with a proanthocyanidin content ≥90%. The complex enzyme consists of cellulase and pectinase at a mass ratio of 2:1, and the ultrasonic power is 300-500W with a frequency of 25-35kHz.

[0013] Furthermore, the modified hyaluronic acid is hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 80-120 kDa, dissolved in phosphate buffer solution with pH 7.0-8.0 at a mass ratio of hyaluronic acid to acetic anhydride of 1:0.3-1:0.8, and stirred at 30-40°C for 2-4 hours. 1-3 times the volume of anhydrous ethanol is added to precipitate the hyaluronic acid. After centrifugation, the precipitate is collected, dissolved in deionized water, dialyzed through a dialysis bag with a molecular weight cutoff of 3000 Da for 48-72 hours, and then freeze-dried under vacuum to obtain modified hyaluronic acid with an acetylation degree of 30-50%.

[0014] Further, the preparation method of ferulic acid nanocrystals is as follows: ferulic acid is dissolved in a mixed solvent of ethylene glycol methyl ether and water with a volume ratio of 1:2-4 to prepare a concentration of 10-15 mg / mL. The solution is then homogenized cyclically 10-15 times under an ultra-high pressure homogenizer at a pressure of 800-1200 bar to obtain nanocrystals with an average particle size of 50-500 nm.

[0015] Furthermore, the phycocyanin-zinc chelate is prepared by dissolving phycocyanin in deionized water to prepare a solution with a mass concentration of 1-3%, adding zinc sulfate solution at a mass ratio of 5-10:1 for phycocyanin, reacting at 35-45℃ and stirring at a speed of 100-200 r / min for 1-2 hours, precipitating the precipitate after the reaction, collecting the precipitate by centrifugation, resolving it in deionized water, ultrafiltration through an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 5000 Da, and freeze-drying to obtain the phycocyanin-zinc chelate, wherein the zinc chelation rate is ≥80%.

[0016] Furthermore, a method for preparing a composition having whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects includes the following steps: (1) Aqueous phase preparation: Add water and glycerol to the reaction vessel, heat to 40-50℃, stir to dissolve, then add lecithin and mix evenly to form an aqueous matrix; (2) Dispersion of active components: a) Add nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, and ascorbate glucoside to the aqueous matrix of step (1) and stir until completely dissolved; b) Under conditions of 45-50℃, add licorice root extract, tea polyphenols, curcumin nanoliposomes, grape seed extract as described in claim 5, and resveratrol in sequence, and homogenize them at a rate of 300-500 rpm for 10-15 minutes. (3) Addition of bioactive components: a) Cool the mixture obtained in step (2) to 30-35℃, add hydrolyzed collagen and bio-firming peptides, and stir to dissolve; b) Add the ferulic acid nanocrystals, phycocyanin-zinc chelate and modified hyaluronic acid as described in claim 5, and mix at a low speed of 100-200 rpm for 15-20 minutes at 25-35°C. (4) Homogenization and stabilization: Cool the system to 25-30℃, adjust the pH to 5.0-6.5, and homogenize it for 2-3 minutes at 5000-8000 rpm using a high-speed shear emulsifier to obtain a uniform and stable composition.

[0017] Furthermore, the composition having whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects can be used in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0018] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are: (1) By blocking melanin transport with nicotinamide, inhibiting melanin diffusion with tranexamic acid, and inhibiting tyrosinase activity with licorice root extract (licorice chalcone A ≥ 98%), a complete chain of inhibition of synthesis, transport, and deposition is achieved, with a tyrosinase inhibition rate of over 90% and a melanin synthesis inhibition rate of over 85%, significantly superior to single-ingredient whitening products. At the same time, the targeted delivery of curcumin nanoliposomes enhances antioxidant capacity and reduces UV-induced melanin production, solving the problems of single efficacy and easy rebound of traditional whitening ingredients.

[0019] (2) The bio-firming peptide uses a specific ratio of palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and acetyl hexapeptide-8 to synergistically activate fibroblasts: palmitoyl tripeptide-5 promotes collagen synthesis, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 reduces collagen degradation, and acetyl hexapeptide-8 alleviates dynamic wrinkles, thereby increasing elastin production by 62.3% and collagen I expression by 78.5%, which is far higher than that of an unbalanced composition, achieving comprehensive firming through prevention, repair, and maintenance.

[0020] (3) Ferulic acid nanocrystals directly scavenge free radicals, and phycocyanin-zinc chelate activates antioxidant enzymes such as SOD. The two work together to achieve a DPPH scavenging rate of 95.4% and an SOD activity of 85.7 U / mg, which is significantly better than single antioxidant ingredients. They continuously block free radical damage to skin cells and improve dull skin tone from the root.

[0021] (4) Acetylated modified hyaluronic acid is both water-soluble and lipid-soluble. Its transdermal absorption rate in 24 hours is 3.47 times that of unmodified hyaluronic acid, and its dermal retention rate is increased by 4.5 times, effectively promoting the penetration of other ingredients into the skin barrier. The licorice root extract extracted by supercritical CO2 extraction and the grape seed extract extracted by enzymatic hydrolysis and ultrasound-assisted extraction have significantly improved the purity and stability of active ingredients, solving the problems of loss of effective ingredients and excessive impurities in traditional extraction processes.

[0022] (5) By using stepwise dispersion and low-temperature homogenization processes, the compatibility problem between fat-soluble and water-soluble components is solved; each component is precisely proportioned to reduce irritation and is suitable for various skin types. It can be prepared into various cosmetic forms such as serum, lotion, and face cream to meet the skin care needs of different scenarios. Detailed Implementation

[0023] To better understand the technical content of this invention, specific embodiments are provided below to further illustrate the invention.

[0024] Unless otherwise specified, the experimental methods used in the embodiments of this invention are all conventional methods.

[0025] Unless otherwise specified, all materials and reagents used in the embodiments of this invention are commercially available.

[0026] The hydrolyzed collagen protein used in this embodiment of the invention is derived from tilapia skin and has a weight-average molecular weight of 2000 DDa.

[0027] Example 1 Raw material composition: 3 parts nicotinamide, 1 part tranexamic acid, 0.5 parts licorice root extract, 0.5 parts bio-firming peptide, 2 parts hydrolyzed collagen, 2 parts ascorbate glucoside, 1 part tea polyphenols, 0.5 parts curcumin nanoliposomes (d=50nm), 1 part lecithin, 40 parts water, 5 parts glycerin, 0.5 parts grape seed extract, 0.1 parts resveratrol, 0.5 parts modified hyaluronic acid, 0.8 parts ferulic acid nanocrystals, 0.5 parts phycocyanin-zinc chelate; The bio-firming peptides include palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, with a weight ratio of 0.1:0.5:2.

[0028] Example 2 Raw material composition: 8 parts nicotinamide, 5 parts tranexamic acid, 3 parts licorice root extract, 6 parts bio-firming peptides, 10 parts hydrolyzed collagen, 6 parts ascorbate glucoside, 4 parts tea polyphenols, 3 parts curcumin nanoliposomes (d=200nm), 5 parts lecithin, 60 parts water, 15 parts glycerin, 3 parts grape seed extract, 1 part resveratrol, 3 parts modified hyaluronic acid, 1.5 parts ferulic acid nanocrystals, 2.5 parts phycocyanin-zinc chelate; The bio-firming peptides include palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, in a weight ratio of 2:1:3.

[0029] Example 3 Ingredients: 5 parts nicotinamide, 3 parts tranexamic acid, 1.5 parts licorice root extract, 3 parts bio-firming peptides, 6 parts hydrolyzed collagen, 4 parts ascorbate glucoside, 3 parts tea polyphenols, 2 parts curcumin nanoliposomes (d=100nm), 3 parts lecithin, 50 parts water, 10 parts glycerin, 2 parts grape seed extract, 0.5 parts resveratrol, 2 parts modified hyaluronic acid, 1.2 parts ferulic acid nanocrystals, 1.5 parts phycocyanin-zinc chelate; The bio-firming peptides include palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, with a weight ratio of 1.2:0.8:2.5. The licorice root extract, grape seed extract, modified hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid nanocrystals, and phycocyanin-zinc chelate of Examples 1-3 above were prepared using the following methods: Licorice root extract: a) Pretreatment: Glycyrrhiza glabra root is pulverized to 100 mesh and ultrasonically cleaned for 20 minutes at 48°C with an ethanol aqueous solution containing 0.2% w / v citric acid to remove pigment impurities; b) Supercritical CO2 directed extraction: extraction temperature 40℃, pressure 20MPa, CO2 flow rate 20L / h, extraction time 2.5 hours. c) Purification: After collecting the extract, it was filtered through a 0.22μm ceramic membrane and then purified by chromatography to obtain a licorice root extract with a glycyrrhizin A content ≥98%.

[0030] Grape seed extract is prepared by crushing grape seeds to 130 mesh, adding 60% ethanol solution (by volume) at a material-to-liquid ratio of 1:10, adding 0.8% (by weight) of a complex enzyme from the grape seeds, enzymatically hydrolyzing at 45°C for 1.5 hours, followed by ultrasonic-assisted extraction at 65°C for 40 minutes. After centrifugation, the supernatant is collected, purified by macroporous adsorption resin, and the eluent is collected and freeze-dried under vacuum to obtain a grape seed extract with a proanthocyanidin content ≥90%. The complex enzyme consists of cellulase and pectinase in a mass ratio of 2:1. The ultrasonic power is 400W and the frequency is 30kHz.

[0031] Modified hyaluronic acid was prepared by dissolving hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100 kDa in a phosphate buffer solution at a mass ratio of hyaluronic acid to acetic anhydride of 1:0.5 at pH 7.5, stirring at 35°C for 3 hours, adding 2 volumes of anhydrous ethanol to precipitate the precipitate, collecting the precipitate by centrifugation, dissolving it in deionized water, dialyzing it through a dialysis bag with a molecular weight cutoff of 3000 Da for 60 hours, and then freeze-drying it under vacuum to obtain modified hyaluronic acid with an acetylation degree of 40%.

[0032] Preparation method of ferulic acid nanocrystals: Ferulic acid was dissolved in a 1:3 volume ratio ethylene glycol methyl ether-water mixed solvent to prepare a concentration of 12 mg / mL. The solution was homogenized 12 times under 1000 bar pressure using an ultra-high pressure homogenizer to obtain nanocrystals with an average particle size of 100 nm.

[0033] The phycocyanin-zinc chelate was prepared by dissolving phycocyanin in deionized water to a 2% (w / w) solution, adding zinc sulfate solution at a phycocyanin to zinc sulfate mass ratio of 8:1, and reacting at 40℃ and a stirring rate of 150 r / min for 1.5 hours. After the reaction, a precipitate was collected by centrifugation, reconstituted with deionized water, and then ultrafiltered through an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 5000 Da. The chelate was then freeze-dried to obtain the phycocyanin-zinc chelate, in which the zinc chelation rate was ≥80%. Preparation method of the composition: (1) Preparation of aqueous phase: Water and glycerol are added to the reaction vessel, heated to 45°C, stirred and dissolved, and then lecithin is added and mixed evenly to form an aqueous matrix; (2) Dispersion of active components: a) Add nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, and ascorbate glucoside to the aqueous matrix of step (1) and stir until completely dissolved; b) At 48°C, add licorice root extract, tea polyphenols, curcumin nanoliposomes, grape seed extract as described in claim 5, and resveratrol in sequence, and homogenize at 400 rpm for 12 minutes. (3) Addition of bioactive components: a) Cool the mixture obtained in step (2) to 32°C, add hydrolyzed collagen and bio-firming peptides, and stir to dissolve; b) Add the ferulic acid nanocrystals, phycocyanin-zinc chelate and modified hyaluronic acid as described in claim 5, and mix at a low speed of 150 rpm for 18 minutes at 30°C. (4) Homogenization and stabilization: Cool the system to 28°C, adjust the pH to 6.0, and homogenize it for 2.5 minutes at 7000 rpm using a high-speed shear emulsifier to obtain a uniform and stable composition.

[0034] Comparative Example 1 The difference between this comparative example and Example 3 is that it does not contain curcumin nanoliposomes, but is replaced with an equal amount of curcumin powder, while the other raw materials and weight parts are the same.

[0035] Comparative Example 2 The difference between this comparative example and Example 3 is that it does not contain ferulic acid nanocrystals, while the other raw materials and weight parts are the same.

[0036] Comparative Example 3 The difference between this comparative example and Example 3 is that it does not contain phycocyanin-zinc chelate, while the other raw materials and weight parts are the same.

[0037] Comparative Example 4 The difference between this comparative example and Example 3 is that the ratio of the bio-firming peptides is changed to 1:1:1.

[0038] Comparative Example 5 The difference between this comparative example and Example 3 is that the hyaluronic acid in this example is unmodified.

[0039] Experimental Example 1 - Tyrosinase Inhibition Rate and Melanin Synthesis Inhibition Test 1. Method Sample preparation: Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-5 and commercially available whitening essence (positive control) were diluted to 1 mg / mL.

[0040] Tyrosinase inhibition rate: The inhibition rate was determined by ultraviolet spectrophotometry (λ=475nm) using L-DOPA as the substrate, in accordance with the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition).

[0041] Melanin synthesis inhibition: B16F10 melanocytes were induced with UVB (30 mJ / cm²), and the melanin content was determined by NaOH lysis method 48 h after drug administration.

[0042] result

[0043] in conclusion: The compositions of Examples 1-3 were significantly superior to Comparative Examples 1-5 and commercially available serums in terms of tyrosinase inhibition rate (90.1%-91.2%) and melanin synthesis inhibition rate (85.6%-86.7%) (P<0.05), and the data showed good stability.

[0044] Specifically, Example 3 showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition rate (91.2±2.1%) and melanin synthesis inhibition rate (86.7±3.4%), indicating that through the synergistic effect of ingredients such as nicotinamide, licorice root extract, and curcumin nanoliposomes, it can effectively block the key pathway of melanin production: on the one hand, it reduces the synthesis of melanin precursors by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, and on the other hand, it directly inhibits the synthesis function of melanocytes, achieving powerful whitening through a dual mechanism.

[0045] The inhibition rates of Comparative Examples 1-5 were generally lower than 80% (tyrosinase) and 72% (melanin synthesis). Among them, compared with Comparative Example 1, curcumin nanoliposomes have good targeting and transdermal absorption, and can more effectively exert antioxidant and melanin production inhibition effects. In contrast, curcumin powder has poor water solubility and low transdermal rate, and cannot fully participate in the whitening pathway, resulting in a decrease in the inhibition effect. Compared with Comparative Example 2, ferulic acid nanocrystals can assist in whitening by scavenging free radicals and inhibiting oxidative stress. Their absence disrupts the antioxidant synergistic system of the composition, making it unable to effectively enhance the activity of other whitening ingredients, thereby reducing the overall inhibitory effect. Compared with Comparative Example 3, in the phycocyanin-zinc chelate, zinc can regulate tyrosinase activity, while phycocyanin has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. The synergistic effect of these two components enhances the efficacy of whitening ingredients. The absence of zinc in the chelate leads to the loss of this synergistic effect, thereby affecting the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. Compared with Comparative Example 4, the specific ratio of bio-firming peptides enables palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and acetyl hexapeptide-8 to indirectly assist whitening ingredients in their function while promoting collagen synthesis. However, the change in the ratio disrupted this synergistic relationship and reduced the ability to regulate melanin-related pathways.

[0046] Compared with Comparative Example 5, modified hyaluronic acid (acetylation degree 40%) has both water solubility and lipid solubility, which can promote the compatibility and transdermal absorption of other ingredients. Unmodified hyaluronic acid cannot achieve this function, resulting in reduced utilization of whitening ingredients and decreased inhibitory effect.

[0047] Experimental Example 2 - Evaluation of Fibroblast Firming Efficacy 1. Method Sample concentration: 0.1 mg / mL applied to human skin fibroblasts (HSF); Elastin production: ELISA kit quantifies cell secretion after 48 hours (vs. blank control). Collagen I synthesis: Western blot was used to detect the expression level of collagen I.

[0048] 2. Results

[0049] Conclusion: The elastin production (162.3±5.7%) and collagen I expression (178.5±6.2%) in Example 3 were significantly higher than those in Comparative Example 4 and the blank control (P<0.05), indicating that it has a remarkable effect in promoting the synthesis of skin structural proteins.

[0050] The specific ratio of bio-firming peptides used in Example 3 (palmitoyl tripeptide-5: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7: acetyl hexapeptide-8 = 1.2:0.8:2.5) can synergistically activate fibroblast function: palmitoyl tripeptide-5 can stimulate the collagen synthesis signaling pathway, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 reduces collagen degradation through anti-inflammatory effects, and acetyl hexapeptide-8 indirectly promotes dermal protein accumulation by inhibiting neurotransmitter release. The three form a synergistic network of synthesis promotion-degradation inhibition-structure maintenance, which increases elastin production by 62.3% and collagen I expression by 78.5% compared with the blank control.

[0051] Comparative Example 4, by changing the ratio of the bio-firming peptides to 1:1:1, disrupted the aforementioned synergistic relationship. Its elastin production (112.6±4.8%) and collagen I expression (126.4±5.1%) were only slightly higher than the blank control (12.6% and 26.4%, respectively), far lower than Example 3. This further confirms that the precise ratio of bio-firming peptides is key to achieving efficient promotion of skin firming-related protein synthesis; an imbalance in the ratio significantly weakens their biological activity.

[0052] Experimental Example 3 - Antioxidant Capacity 1. Method DPPH free radical scavenging rate: 0.5 mg / mL sample reacted for 30 min, UV detection (λ=517 nm); SOD enzyme activity simulation: Xanthine oxidase method for detecting superoxide anion scavenging capacity.

[0053] 2. Results

[0054] Conclusion: The DPPH scavenging rate (95.4±1.8%) and SOD activity (85.7±2.4 U / mg) of Example 3 were significantly higher than those of Comparative Example 2 and Comparative Example 3 (P<0.05), indicating that it has extremely strong antioxidant capacity.

[0055] Comparative Example 2, lacking ferulic acid nanocrystals, showed a significant decrease in DPPH scavenging rate (70.2±2.1%) and SOD activity (62.5±3.0 U / mg), indicating that ferulic acid nanocrystals are a key component for enhancing direct free radical scavenging ability. Comparative Example 3, lacking phycocyanin-zinc chelate, showed slightly higher DPPH scavenging rate (73.6±2.9%) and SOD activity (67.4±3.1 U / mg) than Comparative Example 2, but still much lower than Example 3, demonstrating the important role of phycocyanin-zinc chelate in activating antioxidant enzyme activity.

[0056] Experimental Example 4 - Transdermal Absorption Efficiency Test Sample preparation: Take 5g of each of the compositions from Example 3 and Comparative Example 5, and dilute to 10mL with phosphate buffer (pH 7.4) to prepare the test samples. Transdermal device: A Franz diffusion cell (effective diffusion area 2.8cm²) was used. 2 The receiving cell had a volume of 15 mL. Fresh pigskin (subcutaneous fat removed, thickness 0.3-0.5 mm) was used as a transdermal barrier, fixed between the supply and receiving cells, with the dermis facing the receiving cell. Experimental conditions: Phosphate buffer (pH 7.4) was added to the receiving cell as the receiving medium, and the cell was kept in a 37℃ constant temperature water bath with magnetic stirring (500 rpm). 5 mL of the test sample was added to the supply cell, sealed, and sampling and detection were started at 2 h, 8 h, and 24 h: 1 mL samples were taken from the receiving cell (with an equal amount of fresh receiving medium added simultaneously). The concentration of hyaluronic acid in the sample was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and the cumulative transdermal volume was calculated. After the experiment, the pigskin was peeled off, and the amount of hyaluronic acid retained in the epidermis and dermis was measured. Test results:

[0057] Conclusion: The cumulative transdermal absorption of hyaluronic acid in Example 3 was significantly higher than that in Comparative Example 5 at all time points, and the cumulative transdermal absorption at 24 hours was 3.47 times that of Comparative Example 5, indicating that the modified hyaluronic acid (acetylated) can effectively penetrate the skin barrier. Regarding skin retention, the dermal retention of Example 3 was 68.5 ± 4.3 μg / cm³. 2 The concentration was significantly higher than that of Comparative Example 5 (15.2 ± 2.1 μg / cm³). 2 The higher epidermal retention in Comparative Example 5 indicates that unmodified hyaluronic acid has difficulty penetrating into the dermis and is mainly retained in the epidermis. This difference stems from the enhanced lipid solubility of modified hyaluronic acid, which can reach the dermis through the lipid channels of the stratum corneum, laying the foundation for its synergistic moisturizing and penetration-enhancing effects with other ingredients.

[0058] The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc., made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composition having whitening, firming and improving sallow yellowishness effects, characterized by, The composition comprises the following raw materials by weight: nicotinamide 3-8 parts, tranexamic acid 1-5 parts, liquorice root extract 0.5-3 parts, bio-tightening peptide 0.5-6 parts, hydrolyzed collagen 2-10 parts, ascorbic acid glucoside 2-6 parts, tea polyphenol 1-4 parts, curcumin nano-liposome 0.5-3 parts, lecithin 1-5 parts, water 40-60 parts, glycerol 5-15 parts, and the particle size of the curcumin nano-liposome is 50-200 nm.

2. The composition for whitening, firming and improving sallow skin according to claim 1, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition. The bio-tightening peptide comprises palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and acetyl hexapeptide-8, and the weight ratio is (0.1-2):(0.5-1):(2-3).

3. The composition as described in claim 1, which has whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects, is characterized in that... The liquorice root extract is prepared by low-temperature directional extraction, and specifically comprises the following steps: a) pretreatment: crushing liquorice root to 80-120 mesh, ultrasonic cleaning at 45-50℃ for 20 minutes with 0.1-0.3% w / v citric acid in ethanol solution, and removing pigment impurities; b) supercritical CO2 directional extraction: extraction temperature 35-45℃, pressure 18-22 MPa, CO2 flow rate 15-25 L / h, extraction time 2-3 hours, c) purification: collecting the extract, filtering through a 0.22 μm ceramic membrane, and then chromatography purification to obtain liquorice root extract with glycyrrhetin A content ≥98%.

4. The composition as described in claim 1, which has whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects, is characterized in that... The composition further comprises the following auxiliary active ingredients by weight: grape seed extract 0.5-3 parts, resveratrol 0.1-1 part, modified hyaluronic acid 0.5-3 parts, ferulic acid nanocrystal 0.8-1.5 parts, and phycocyanin-zinc chelate 0.5-2.5 parts.

5. The composition as described in claim 4, which has whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects, is characterized in that... The grape seed extract is prepared by the following steps: crushing grape seeds to 120-150 mesh, adding 50-70% ethanol solution in a solid-liquid ratio of 1:8-1:12, adding 0.5-1% complex enzyme based on the weight of grape seeds, enzymatic hydrolysis at 40-50℃ for 1-2 hours, then ultrasonic-assisted extraction at 60-70℃ for 30-45 minutes, centrifuging the extract, collecting the supernatant, purifying through macroporous adsorption resin, collecting the eluate, and vacuum freeze-drying to obtain grape seed extract with proanthocyanidin content ≥90%, and the complex enzyme is composed of cellulase and pectinase in a mass ratio of 2:1, and the ultrasonic power is 300-500 W and the frequency is 25-35 kHz.

6. The composition as described in claim 4, having whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects, characterized in that... The modified hyaluronic acid is hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 80-120 kDa, which is dissolved in a phosphate buffer with a pH of 7.0-8.0 in a mass ratio of 1:0.3-1:0.8 of hyaluronic acid to acetic anhydride, stirred and reacted at 30-40℃ for 2-4 hours, precipitated by adding 1-3 times the volume of anhydrous ethanol, dissolved in deionized water after centrifugation to collect the precipitate, dialyzed in a dialysis bag with a molecular weight cutoff of 3000 Da for 48-72 hours, and vacuum freeze-dried to obtain modified hyaluronic acid with an acetyl degree of 30-50%.

7. The composition as described in claim 4, which has whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects, is characterized in that... The preparation method of ferulic acid nanocrystals is as follows: ferulic acid is dissolved in a mixed solvent of ethylene glycol methyl ether and water in a volume ratio of 1:2-4 to prepare a solution with a concentration of 10-15 mg / mL, and then the solution is subjected to 10-15 cycles of homogenization at a pressure of 800-1200 bar by using an ultrahigh-pressure homogenizer to obtain nanocrystals with an average particle size of 50-500 nm.

8. The composition as described in claim 4, having whitening, firming, and dullness-improving effects, characterized in that, The preparation method of the phycocyanin-zinc chelate is as follows: phycocyanin is dissolved in deionized water to prepare a solution with a mass concentration of 1-3%, and then zinc sulfate solution is added according to a mass ratio of phycocyanin to zinc sulfate of 5-10:1, and the reaction is carried out at 35-45°C and a stirring speed of 100-200 r / min for 1-2 hours, after which the reaction product is precipitated and centrifuged to collect the precipitate, which is then redissolved in deionized water and subjected to ultrafiltration through an ultrafiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 5000 Da, and then freeze-dried to obtain the phycocyanin-zinc chelate, wherein the chelation rate of zinc element is ≥80%.

9. A method for preparing a composition having whitening, firming and improving sallow effect according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein The method comprises the following steps: (1) water phase preparation: water and glycerol are added to a reaction kettle, and the temperature is raised to 40-50°C, and then lecithin is added after stirring and dissolving to form a water phase matrix; (2) active component dispersion: a) nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, and ascorbic acid glucoside are added to the water phase matrix of step (1), and stirring is performed until complete dissolution; b) under the condition of 45-50°C, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, tea polyphenol, curcumin nanoliposome, grape seed extract of claim 5, and resveratrol are added in sequence, and homogenization dispersion is performed at a speed of 300-500 rpm for 10-15 minutes; (3) addition of bioactive components: a) the mixture obtained in step (2) is cooled to 30-35°C, and hydrolyzed collagen and bio-tightening peptide are added and stirred to dissolve; b) ferulic acid nanocrystals of claim 5, phycocyanin-zinc chelate, and modified hyaluronic acid are added, and the mixture is stirred at a low speed of 100-200 rpm for 15-20 minutes while maintaining the temperature at 25-35°C; (4) homogenization and stabilization: the system is cooled to 25-30°C, the pH is adjusted to 5.0-6.5, and then homogenization is performed by using a high-speed shearing emulsifier at a speed of 5000-8000 rpm for 2-3 minutes to obtain a uniform and stable composition.

10. Use of the composition with whitening, firming, and dark yellow improvement effects according to any one of claims 1-8 in the preparation of a cosmetic.

Images