Anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses an anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask and a preparation method thereof.The preparation method includes the steps that a W / O / W multiple emulsification system is constructed, an inner water phase contains nicotinamide, inositol hexaphosphate and acetyl hexapeptide-8, an outer water phase contains alpha-arbutin and glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, and the W / O / W multiple emulsification system is prepared; and double inhibition of tyrosinase and dynamic wrinkle targeted intervention are realized through double-path cooperation. The cream has high stability, slow release property and excellent rheological property, does not need preservatives, has good film-forming property, and remarkably improves the transdermal efficiency and chemical stability of active components. Through direct tyrosinase inhibition, copper ion chelation and neurotransmitter inhibition, the skin care composition has a clear dual whitening mechanism, a targeted anti-wrinkle mechanism, a high-stability multi-emulsion structure, excellent rheological properties and good skin feeling experience; the problems that in the prior art, a cream mask is loose in dosage form structure, uncontrollable in active ingredient release, fuzzy in action mechanism and limited in use scene are solved.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask and a preparation method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] In the field of anti-wrinkle whitening skin care, masks are a common local care product, and the dosage forms mainly include patch type essence masks, powder masks and sleep masks. In recent years, cream masks with cream texture and mask efficacy have gradually attracted market attention due to their high moisturizing property, strong adhesion and slow release of active ingredients. However, there are still some limitations in the existing anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask disclosed in the prior art.

[0003] Patent CN108852969B discloses an anti-wrinkle anti-aging whitening mask and a preparation method thereof, which uses pure water, acetylated chitosan, sodium polyglutamate, cetyl stearyl alcohol, aloe extract, hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, lactarius volemus extract, feiyangwu fermentation extract of actinidia polygama and grape seed oil as components to realize the effects of whitening, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing through the synergistic effect of the components.

[0004] Although the scheme emphasizes the compounding advantages of multiple plant extracts, the system uses water as the continuous phase, and the whole is in a liquid or dilute emulsion state, and does not form a cream structure with high consistency and film-forming property, so the residence time on the skin surface is short, the release rate of active ingredients is fast, and it is not conducive to long-term nourishment and continuous anti-wrinkle whitening effect. In addition, the formula does not specifically design for tyrosinase inhibition and collagen protection, and the whitening and anti-wrinkle mechanism is relatively generalized.

[0005] Patent CN119523818B discloses a lotion mask with whitening, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects, a preparation method and application thereof, which uses alisma orientale leaf fermentation liquor, ginkgo biloba leaf extract, silk fibroin, vitamin C, nicotinamide and inositol as core active ingredients, and is matched with silk fibroin fiber, polyvinyl alcohol and chitosan to construct a mask base cloth.

[0006] Although the technology mentions lotion masks and emphasizes multifunctionality, the focus is on the composite structure of the mask cloth material and the loading capacity of the liquid essence, and the actual product form still depends on the traditional patch type carrier, and the mask liquid itself does not have the characteristics of self-film formation or cream. At the same time, although the combination of active ingredients has certain whitening and anti-aging potential, the rheological property, stability and skin feel of the cream base are not systematically optimized, and it is difficult to meet the comprehensive needs of consumers for high-end cream masks in terms of extensibility, absorbability and use pleasure.

[0007] While existing valid patents include facial mask products with anti-wrinkle and whitening functions, their formulation designs are mostly concentrated on liquid essences or ordinary lotions. There is no existing technical solution for a cream facial mask that combines a high-viscosity cream texture, good film-forming properties, a stable active ingredient delivery system, and a clear dual mechanism of anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. Summary of the Invention

[0008] This invention provides an anti-wrinkle and whitening cream mask and its preparation method. It aims to solve the problems of unstable structure, excessively rapid release of active ingredients, and unclear tyrosinase inhibition and collagen protection mechanisms in the prior art by constructing a W / O / W multi-emulsification system with high viscosity, self-film-forming properties and sustained-release characteristics, and introducing a dual-pathway active ingredient synergistic delivery system.

[0009] This invention provides a method for preparing an anti-wrinkle and whitening cream mask, comprising the following steps: S10: Prepare the internal aqueous phase by mixing nicotinamide, inositol hexaphosphate, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and deionized water, and stirring at 30-40°C until completely dissolved to obtain an internal aqueous phase solution; the mass fraction of nicotinamide in the internal aqueous phase is 1.5%-3.0%, the mass fraction of inositol hexaphosphate is 0.2%-0.6%, and the mass fraction of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.005%-0.02%; S20: To prepare the oil phase, squalane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, beeswax, tocopheryl acetate, and phytosterols are mixed, heated to melt at 70-80℃, and stirred evenly to obtain the oil phase; the oil phase contains 3%-8% squalane, 2%-6% caprylic / capric triglyceride, 2.5%-5.0% polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, 1.0%-3.0% beeswax, 0.5%-1.5% tocopheryl acetate, and 0.3%-1.0% phytosterols. S30: Slowly add the aqueous phase obtained in step S10 to the oil phase obtained in step S20, and homogenize and emulsify for 5-10 minutes at 70-80℃ and a shear rate of 8000-12000rpm to form a primary W / O emulsion. S40: Prepare the external aqueous phase by mixing carbomer 940, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, glycerin, α-arbutin, licorice root extract, and deionized water, swelling and stirring at 25-35℃ until completely dissolved to obtain the external aqueous phase; the external aqueous phase contains 0.15%-0.35% carbomer 940, 0.1%-0.3% sodium hyaluronate, 1.0%-2.5% panthenol, 5%-10% glycerin, 0.5%-2.0% α-arbutin, and 0.3%-1.0% licorice root extract. S50: The primary W / O emulsion obtained in step S30 is slowly added to the external aqueous phase obtained in step S40 at 40-50℃, and a secondary emulsification is performed at a shear rate of 3000-5000 rpm for 8-15 min to form a stable W / O / W multi-emulsion system. S60: Add triethanolamine to the emulsion system obtained in step S50, adjust the pH value to 5.5-6.2, continue stirring at 30-40℃ for 30-60 min, cool to room temperature and let stand for 12-24 h to obtain the anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask product.

[0010] Employing a W / O / W multi-emulsion structure as the cream matrix, the inner aqueous phase is encapsulated in oil-phase microdroplets and then dispersed in the outer aqueous continuous phase. This structure effectively prolongs the residence time of hydrophilic active ingredients (such as niacinamide and acetyl hexapeptide-8) on the skin surface and controls their release rate through the oil phase barrier. In the outer aqueous phase, α-arbutin and licorice root extract directly contact the skin surface and rapidly inhibit tyrosinase activity, while inositol hexaphosphate in the inner aqueous phase indirectly inhibits the tyrosinase catalytic center by chelating copper ions, forming a dual whitening mechanism. At the same time, acetyl hexapeptide-8 is encapsulated in the inner aqueous phase, avoiding degradation by oxidizing components (such as residual metal ions) that may be present in the outer aqueous phase, ensuring the stability of its neurotransmitter inhibitory function, thereby achieving targeted intervention for dynamic wrinkles.

[0011] In step S10, the inositol hexaphosphate is added in the form of a sodium salt with a molecular weight of 660 Da and a water solubility greater than 50 g / 100 mL.

[0012] In step S20, the phytosterol is a mixture of β-sitosterol, campesterol and stigmasterol, with a mass ratio of 5:3:2, and the total content accounts for 0.3%-1.0% of the oil phase mass.

[0013] In step S30, the homogenization and emulsification are carried out using a high-shear homogenizer with a rotor-stator gap of 0.2-0.5 mm, and the temperature fluctuation of the system is maintained at less than ±2℃ during the emulsification process.

[0014] In step S40, the licorice root extract is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction followed by ethanol reflux purification, wherein the content of glycyrrhizin A is higher than 8% and the content of glycyrrhizic acid is higher than 15%.

[0015] In step S50, the secondary emulsification adopts a segmented shearing strategy: shearing at 5000 rpm for the first 5 minutes and then reducing to 3000 rpm for the next 5-10 minutes, in order to promote the uniform dispersion of W / O droplets in the external aqueous phase and prevent excessive breakage that could lead to structural collapse.

[0016] In step S60, the amount of triethanolamine added is 0.1%-0.3% based on the total mass of the external aqueous phase. It is added dropwise while the pH value is monitored simultaneously to avoid local over-alkalinity that could damage the carbomer gel network.

[0017] The preparation method further includes aseptic filling after step S60, with the filling environment having a cleanliness level of ISO5, the filling temperature controlled at 25-30℃, and the sealed container stored under light-protected conditions after filling.

[0018] This invention provides an anti-wrinkle and whitening cream mask, prepared by the preparation method described in any embodiment of the first aspect, wherein its components, by mass percentage, comprise: The aqueous phase composition is as follows: nicotinamide 1.5%-3.0%, inositol hexaphosphate 0.2%-0.6%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.005%-0.02%, with the balance being deionized water; Oil phase components: squalane 3%-8%, caprylic / capric triglycerides 2%-6%, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate 2.5%-5.0%, beeswax 1.0%-3.0%, tocopheryl acetate 0.5%-1.5%, phytosterols 0.3%-1.0%; External aqueous phase components: Carbomer 940 0.15%-0.35%, Sodium hyaluronate 0.1%-0.3%, Panthenol 1.0%-2.5%, Glycerin 5%-10%, α-Arbutin 0.5%-2.0%, Licorice root extract 0.3%-1.0%, Triethanolamine 0.1%-0.3%, balance deionized water.

[0019] The cream mask forms a stable W / O / W multi-emulsion structure. The average droplet size in the inner aqueous phase is 0.8-2.5 μm, while the average droplet size in the W / O microdroplet in the outer aqueous continuous phase is 8-20 μm. A clear bilayer interface structure can be observed using a laser confocal microscope. This structure effectively isolates niacinamide and acetyl hexapeptide-8 in the inner aqueous phase, preventing contact with potentially unstable factors in the outer aqueous phase. Simultaneously, the sustained-release effect of the oil phase prolongs their penetration time in the stratum corneum. α-Arbutin and licorice root extract are distributed in the outer aqueous phase, allowing for rapid action on epidermal melanocytes in the initial application stage, inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Inositol hexaphosphate... Ester esters chelate copper ions at the active site of tyrosinase, blocking the melanin synthesis pathway at the molecular level and forming a complementary inhibitory mechanism with α-arbutin; Acetyl hexapeptide-8 competitively inhibits the release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular junction by mimicking the SNAP-25 protein fragment, reducing the frequency of facial muscle contractions and thus alleviating the formation of dynamic wrinkles; Phytosterols and squalane synergistically repair the skin barrier, increase the moisture content of the stratum corneum, and enhance the moisturizing and spreadability of the cream; Beeswax and polyglycerol-3 diisostearate together construct a three-dimensional network structure, giving the cream high yield stress and thixotropy, allowing it to maintain its shape when applied thickly and quickly thin out during massage for easy application.

[0020] After being stored at 25°C and 60% relative humidity for 6 months, the anti-wrinkle and whitening cream mask showed a niacinamide degradation rate of less than 3%, an acetyl hexapeptide-8 retention rate of more than 95%, and an α-arbutin retention rate of more than 90%, indicating that the multiple emulsification structure effectively improved the chemical stability of the active ingredients.

[0021] The spreadability of the cream mask is 12-18 mN / m at 32°C, and the contact angle is 45-60°, indicating that it has good wettability and film-forming uniformity on the skin surface.

[0022] The cream mask, as determined in an in vitro transdermal assay using isolated porcine ear skin in a Franz diffusion cell, showed a cumulative niacinamide penetration of 85-110 μg / m² within 24 hours. 2 The cumulative permeability of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 1.2-2.0 μg / m³. 2 This indicates that it has controllable transdermal delivery capabilities.

[0023] The cream mask does not contain traditional preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone. Its microbial stability is achieved through the physical barrier effect of multiple emulsification structures and low water activity (Aw≤0.85), and it meets the ISO11930 standard after challenging testing.

[0024] The cream mask is prepared without using film-forming agents other than acrylic synthetic polymer thickeners. Its film-forming properties depend entirely on the self-assembly behavior of the W / O / W structure after water evaporation. The resulting film has a thickness of 30-80 μm, good breathability, and does not affect the normal respiration of the skin.

[0025] The cream mask is suitable for application to the face, neck, and hands in a thick layer for 10-20 minutes. No rinsing is required, and any residue can be massaged in for absorption. It is suitable for daytime or nighttime skincare routines.

[0026] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are: This invention clarifies a dual whitening mechanism, a targeted anti-wrinkle mechanism, a highly stable multi-emulsified structure, excellent rheological properties, and a good skin feel through direct tyrosinase inhibition, copper ion chelation, and neurotransmitter inhibition. It solves the problems of loose structure, uncontrollable release of active ingredients, ambiguous mechanism of action, and limited application scenarios in the existing cream and mask formulations. Detailed Implementation

[0027] This invention provides an anti-wrinkle and whitening cream mask and its preparation method. By constructing a W / O / W multi-emulsification system and precisely controlling the components of each phase and process parameters, the physical structure and functional performance of the cream mask are synergistically optimized.

[0028] The technical solution of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments and comparative examples, so as to ensure that those skilled in the art can fully understand and implement the present invention.

[0029] Example 1: Inner aqueous phase: nicotinamide 2.2%, inositol hexaphosphate 0.4%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.01%; Oil phase: squalane 5%, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate 3.5%; Outer aqueous phase: α-arbutin 1.2%, licorice root extract 0.6%; Primary emulsification shearing 10000 rpm, secondary emulsification segmented shearing (5000 rpm for 5 min + 3000 rpm for 5 min); Preparation process: Inner aqueous phase preparation → Oil phase preparation → Primary emulsification → Outer aqueous phase preparation → Secondary emulsification → pH adjustment → Maturation → Aseptic filling.

[0030] Example 2: 1.5% nicotinamide in the aqueous phase, the rest of the formulation and process are the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1.

[0031] Example 3: 3.0% nicotinamide in the aqueous phase, the rest of the formulation and process are the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1.

[0032] Example 4: 0.5% α-arbutin in the external aqueous phase, the rest of the formulation and process are the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1.

[0033] Example 5: 2.0% α-arbutin in the external aqueous phase, the rest of the formulation and process are the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1.

[0034] Example 6: Primary emulsification shearing at 8000 rpm, the remaining formulation and process are the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1.

[0035] Example 7: Primary emulsification shearing at 12000 rpm, the rest of the formulation and process are the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1.

[0036] Example 8: Curing time 12 hours, other formulas and processes are the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1.

[0037] Comparative Example 1: No multiple emulsification was used; single O / W emulsification was employed. The remaining active ingredients and formulation were the same as in Example 1. Preparation process: Aqueous phase preparation → Oil phase preparation → Single emulsification → pH adjustment → Maturation → Filling.

[0038] Comparative Example 2: The aqueous phase was free of inositol hexaphosphate and acetyl hexapeptide-8; the rest of the formulation and process were the same as in Example 1; Preparation process: Same as in Example 1 (the aqueous phase contains only nicotinamide).

[0039] Test method: Functional testing: In vitro tyrosinase inhibition experiment to determine whitening activity; human skin trial to evaluate dynamic wrinkle improvement rate; Franz diffusion cell to determine 24-hour transdermal absorption.

[0040] Stability test: Store at 25℃ away from light for 6 months, test the retention rate of active ingredients; observe the layering and color change; measure the viscosity change.

[0041] Skin feel and safety testing: assess spreadability and film-forming properties; test microbial stability; verify compliance with preservative-free standards.

[0042] The test data comparisons are shown in Table 1 and Table 2.

[0043] Table 1. Comparison of viscosity, tyrosinase inhibition rate, and wrinkle improvement rate at 25℃

[0044] Table 2 Comparison of transdermal nicotinamide activity retention rate at 6 months

[0045] Examples 1-8 showed tyrosinase inhibition rate ≥68% and wrinkle improvement rate ≥28%, which were far superior to the comparative examples. Comparative example 1 had poor sustained-release properties and stability due to its single emulsification system, and comparative example 2 had no synergistic components and had weak anti-wrinkle and whitening effects, proving that the core process is the key to efficient synergy.

[0046] Increased nicotinamide content (Examples 2→1→3) resulted in simultaneous improvement in whitening and anti-wrinkle effects; increased α-arbutin ratio (Examples 4→1→5) significantly optimized tyrosinase inhibition rate; and increased primary emulsification shear rate (Examples 6→1→7) enhanced system stability.

[0047] The product maintains microbial stability even without preservatives; its viscosity is suitable for thick application and it spreads well; its activity retention rate is ≥90% after 6 months, and it is stable during storage; its transdermal efficiency is controllable, and it is gentle and non-irritating.

[0048] Compared to a single O / W system (Comparative Example 1), the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the example was increased by 42%, and the wrinkle improvement rate was increased by 78%; compared to no synergistic ingredients (Comparative Example 2), the whitening effect was increased by 26%, and the anti-wrinkle effect was increased by 113%, solving the industry problem of rapid release of active ingredients and single efficacy of traditional masks.

[0049] The cream mask of this invention achieves high efficiency in anti-wrinkle and whitening as well as high stability through multiple emulsification and dual-path synergy, with different parameter combinations, and is suitable for localized thick application care of the face.

[0050] The above are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc., made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method of preparing an anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask, characterized by, The method comprises the following steps: S10: preparing an inner water phase, mixing nicotinamide, inositol hexaphosphate, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and deionized water, stirring until completely dissolved to obtain an inner water phase solution; S20: preparing an oil phase, mixing squalane, caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, beeswax, tocopherol acetate and phytosterol, heating and melting and stirring uniformly to obtain an oil phase; S30: slowly adding the inner water phase obtained in step S10 into the oil phase obtained in step S20, homogenizing and emulsifying to form a primary W / O emulsion; S40: preparing an outer water phase, mixing carbomer 940, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, glycerol, alpha-arbutin, liquorice root extract and deionized water, swelling and stirring until completely dissolved to obtain an outer water phase; S50: slowly adding the primary W / O emulsion obtained in step S30 into the outer water phase obtained in step S40, performing secondary emulsification to form a W / O / W multiple emulsion system; S60: adding triethanolamine into the emulsion system obtained in step S50, adjusting the pH value to 5.5-6.2, continuing to stir until uniform, cooling to room temperature and standing to mature to obtain an anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask finished product.

2. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, The mass fraction of nicotinamide in the inner water phase is 1.5%-3.0%, the mass fraction of inositol hexaphosphate is 0.2%-0.6%, and the mass fraction of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is 0.005%-0.02%.

3. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The mass fraction of squalane in the oil phase is 3%-8%, the mass fraction of caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride is 2%-6%, the mass fraction of polyglycerol-3 diisostearate is 2.5%-5.0%, the mass fraction of beeswax is 1.0%-3.0%, the mass fraction of tocopherol acetate is 0.5%-1.5%, and the mass fraction of phytosterol is 0.3%-1.0%.

4. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, The mass fraction of carbomer 940 in the outer water phase is 0.15%-0.35%, the mass fraction of sodium hyaluronate is 0.1%-0.3%, the mass fraction of panthenol is 1.0%-2.5%, the mass fraction of glycerol is 5%-10%, the mass fraction of alpha-arbutin is 0.5%-2.0%, and the mass fraction of liquorice root extract is 0.3%-1.0%.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S10, the inositol hexaphosphate is added in the form of sodium salt, with a molecular weight of 660 Da and a water solubility of greater than 50 g / 100 mL.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S20, the phytosterol is a mixture of beta-sitosterol, campesterol and stigmasterol, with a mass ratio of 5:3:2, and the total content is 0.3%-1.0% of the mass of the oil phase.

7. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S30, the homogenization and emulsification are performed by using a high-shear homogenizer with a rotor-stator gap of 0.2-0.5 mm, and the system temperature is maintained within a fluctuation range of less than ±2°C during the emulsification process.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S40, the liquorice root extract is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction followed by ethanol reflux purification, with a glycyrrhizin chalcone A content of greater than 8% and a glycyrrhizic acid content of greater than 15%.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S50, the secondary emulsification is performed by using a segmented shearing strategy: shearing at 5000 rpm for the first 5 minutes and then reducing to 3000 rpm for 5-10 minutes.

10. An anti-wrinkle whitening cream mask, characterized by, Prepared by the preparation method of any one of claims 1-9, comprising the following components by mass percentage: Inner water phase components: nicotinamide 1.5%-3.0%, myo-inositol hexaphosphate 0.2%-0.6%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.005%-0.02%, and the balance being deionized water; Oil phase components: squalane 3%-8%, caprylic / capric triglyceride 2%-6%, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.5%-5.0%, beeswax 1.0%-3.0%, tocopheryl acetate 0.5%-1.5%, and phytosterol 0.3%-1.0%; Outer water phase components: carbomer 940 0.15%-0.35%, sodium hyaluronate 0.1%-0.3%, panthenol 1.0%-2.5%, glycerin 5%-10%, alpha-arbutin 0.5%-2.0%, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract 0.3%-1.0%, triethanolamine 0.1%-0.3%, and the balance being deionized water.

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