Double-crystalline-state surfactant, application thereof and facial cleanser

Abstract

The invention discloses a double-crystal-state surfactant and application thereof and a facial cleanser, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and an amino acid surfactant comprises the following components in parts by mass: 5-20 parts of hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts of an amino acid surfactant and 53-80 parts of water. The amino acid surfactant comprises fatty acyl amino acid salt. According to the invention, the hydrogenated castor oil, the amino acid surfactant and the water are combined according to the specific mass part ratio to obtain the surfactant with a double-crystalline-state structure, and the double-crystalline-state surfactant has a clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystal structure under a polarizing microscope, has excellent stability, and can be used for preparing the surfactant. According to the present invention, the prepared self-thickening pearl-luster-containing water-based self-thickening pearl-luster-containing water-based self-thickening pearl-luster-containing water-based self-thickening pearl-luster-containing water-based water-based self-thickening pearl-luster-containing water-based water-based water-based water-based water-based water-based water-based water-based water-based water-based water-based water

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This application relates to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically to a bicrystalline surfactant, its application, and facial cleansers. Background Technology

[0002] As consumers' skincare concepts evolve, the demand for facial cleansers has shifted from simple cleansing to gentle, non-irritating, stable, and easy-to-use products (such as those that can be extruded). Amino acid surfactants, due to their excellent biocompatibility, low irritation, and gentle cleansing power, are gradually replacing traditional soap-based and petroleum-based surfactants, becoming the core ingredient in high-end facial cleansers. Currently, facial cleansing systems based on amino acid surfactants are mainly divided into two categories: crystalline and liquid crystal types. Both occupy the mainstream market due to their unique microstructure and performance characteristics, but significant technological bottlenecks remain in practical applications.

[0003] Crystalline amino acid surfactants and cleansing systems allow amino acid surfactants to crystallize uniformly under supersaturated conditions, forming a stable pearlescent paste structure. Their core advantage lies in their self-thickening mechanism, eliminating the need for large amounts of chemical thickeners and emulsifiers. However, crystalline amino acid surfactants and cleansing systems have significant technical drawbacks: First, they exhibit poor stability, being sensitive to temperature and storage conditions. High temperatures easily lead to water separation, while low temperatures cause hardening and layering. Prolonged storage can cause the paste to coarsen, diminishing the pearlescent texture and affecting product appearance and lifespan. Second, their cleaning performance is limited. Due to the weak encapsulation of oils by the crystalline structure, they are insufficient for cleaning waterproof makeup and highly oily stains. Third, thickeners added to improve the stability of the cleansing system can mask the inherent pearlescent texture, requiring additional pearlescent agents. Excessive addition of fillers can disrupt the paste structure, exacerbating water separation and coarsening issues, while also reducing the system's gentleness.

[0004] The thickening principle of liquid crystal amino acid surfactants and cleansing systems is mainly based on the liquid crystal phase formed by amino acid surfactants. The self-assembly of amino acid surfactant molecules forms an ordered liquid crystal structure, increasing the viscosity of the system without the use of traditional thickeners. However, liquid crystal amino acid surfactants and cleansing systems also have technical shortcomings: First, cleansing systems built with liquid crystal amino acid surfactants lack pearlescent luster, exhibiting a fine, creamy texture with good spreadability, but generally require the addition of polymers for thickening. This results in a certain stickiness after washing, and the appearance is significantly different from mainstream amino acid facial cleansers.

[0005] The existing amino acid surfactants and cleansing systems suffer from a single crystalline form, leading to performance imbalances. The mildness of crystalline surfactants and the cleaning power and stability of liquid crystal surfactants cannot be combined, and existing technologies struggle to achieve the coexistence of the two crystalline forms. Therefore, developing an amino acid surfactant that can simultaneously possess the advantages of both crystalline and liquid crystal amino acid surfactants while avoiding their respective technical defects has become a pressing technical problem for those skilled in the art. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The purpose of this application is to overcome the shortcomings of the existing technology and provide a bicrystalline surfactant and its application in facial cleansers. The bicrystalline surfactant has a clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystalline structure under a polarizing microscope, has excellent stability, a bright pearlescent appearance, and excellent cleaning performance. It is suitable for preparing facial cleansing products and bath products, especially for preparing facial cleansing products.

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the first aspect of this application provides a bicrystalline surfactant comprising the following components in parts by weight: 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water; The amino acid surfactant includes fatty acyl amino acid salts.

[0008] In this application, a bicrystalline surfactant refers to a bicrystalline surfactant that has a Maltese cross and needle-like crystalline structure under a polarizing microscope. The presence of a Maltese cross under a polarizing microscope indicates that the bicrystalline surfactant contains a liquid crystal phase, and the presence of a needle-like crystalline structure under a polarizing microscope indicates that the bicrystalline surfactant contains a crystalline phase. Bicrystalline means a state in which the liquid crystal phase and the crystalline phase coexist.

[0009] This application creatively combines hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water in the above-mentioned specific mass ratio to obtain a surfactant with a bicrystalline structure. The bicrystalline surfactant has a clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystal structure under a polarizing microscope, exhibits excellent stability, maintains the bicrystalline structure at both high and low temperatures, can achieve self-thickening, has a bright pearlescent appearance, and has excellent cleaning performance. It is suitable for preparing facial cleansing products and bath products, especially facial cleansing products.

[0010] The bicrystalline surfactant described in this application, by controlling the ratio of hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water, uses a fatty acyl amino acid salt as the amino acid surfactant. The amino and carboxyl groups at the head of the fatty acyl amino acid salt form a multiple hydrogen bond network with the hydroxyl groups of the hydrogenated castor oil and water molecules, inducing the ordered arrangement of the amino acid surfactant molecules. This promotes the formation and growth of the crystalline phase and provides stable support for the layered structure of the liquid crystal phase, forming a liquid crystal gel. The long-chain alkyl tail of the fatty acyl amino acid salt aggregates with the hydrophobic framework of the hydrogenated castor oil through hydrophobic interactions, while the polar groups of both form hydrophilic regions with water molecules. This hydrophilic-hydrophobic microphase separation structure satisfies both the ordered stacking requirement of the crystalline phase and the alternating hydrophilic-lipophilic region structure of the liquid crystal phase. Simultaneously, the van der Waals forces between the fatty acyl amino acid salt and hydrogenated castor oil molecules further strengthen the molecular aggregation of the two components, enabling the crystalline phase and liquid crystal phase to form a stable coexistence interface and avoiding phase separation. The introduction of hydrogenated castor oil, through intermolecular force regulation, reduces the critical micelle concentration of fatty acyl amino acid salts, enabling the crystalline and liquid crystal phases to form a stable structure, exhibiting a clear Maltese cross under a polarizing microscope. The synergistic effect of fatty acyl amino acid salts and hydrogenated castor oil effectively improves the stability of the surfactant, preventing freezing, coarsening, and precipitation at low temperatures; preventing melting, water release, and stratification at high temperatures; achieving self-thickening; producing a unique, bright pearlescent appearance; and exhibiting good safety, being mild and non-irritating.

[0011] The inventors of this application have discovered through extensive research that the surfactant, under the synergistic effect of fatty acyl amino acid salt and hydrogenated castor oil, also exhibits excellent makeup removal and extrusion effects. Specifically, the unique bicrystalline structure formed by the fatty acyl amino acid salt, hydrogenated castor oil, and water allows for rapid penetration into the oil's interior, while the long-chain hydrophobic framework of hydrogenated castor oil enhances the lipophilicity of the liquid crystal phase, disrupting the adhesion between the oil and the skin surface, thus effectively improving the surfactant's makeup removal effect. Meanwhile, the unique bicrystalline structure formed by the fatty acyl amino acid salt, hydrogenated castor oil, and water weakens the interaction forces between crystalline phase particles, breaking the formation of a dense crystalline network. The layered aggregation structure of hydrogenated castor oil limits the excessive growth of crystalline phase particles, keeping them in a small particulate state, avoiding hardening of the paste due to particle agglomeration, maintaining the fluidity and stability of the overall system structure, avoiding the embrittlement phenomenon of monocrystalline systems at low temperatures, forming a lubricant-like effect, reducing internal frictional resistance, reducing rigid stacking of crystals at low temperatures, and effectively improving extrusion performance. This allows the bicrystalline amino acid surfactant to maintain good extrudability at different temperatures, especially improving extrudability at low temperatures. Surprisingly, the surfactant can also improve foam richness and foam oil resistance, exhibiting good cleaning properties at low concentrations, reducing excessive degreasing, lowering the risk of skin tightness and sensitivity, and stably encapsulating and removing oil when in contact with sebum and makeup oils.

[0012] The amount of hydrogenated castor oil used is 5 to 20 parts, for example, it can be 5 parts, 6 parts, 7 parts, 8 parts, 9 parts, 10 parts, 11 parts, 12 parts, 13 parts, 14 parts, 15 parts, 16 parts, 17 parts, 18 parts, 19 parts, 20 parts, or any two of these values.

[0013] The amount of the amino acid surfactant used is 10 to 40 parts, for example, it can be 10 parts, 12 parts, 14 parts, 15 parts, 16 parts, 18 parts, 20 parts, 22 parts, 24 parts, 25 parts, 26 parts, 28 parts, 30 parts, 32 parts, 34 parts, 35 parts, 36 parts, 38 parts, 40 parts, or any two of these values.

[0014] The amount of water used is 53 to 80 parts, for example, it can be 53 parts, 54 parts, 55 parts, 56 parts, 58 parts, 60 parts, 62 parts, 64 parts, 65 parts, 66 parts, 68 parts, 70 parts, 72 parts, 74 parts, 75 parts, 76 parts, 78 parts, 80 parts, or any two of these values.

[0015] As an embodiment of this application, the components include the following parts by weight: 10-15 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 20-30 parts amino acid surfactant, and 55-70 parts water. In particular, when the amount of each raw material is within this range, the hydrogenated castor oil and amino acid surfactant can have a more ideal synergistic effect, can form a more stable bicrystalline structure, and have no obvious phase transformation, no stratification, coarsening, or water-forming phenomena within a wide temperature range, no crystal phase separation, strong intermolecular forces within the system, no local crystalline phase aggregation or liquid crystal phase enrichment, which can effectively improve the stability of surfactants, makeup removal effect, extrusion effect and foam richness, and form a more transparent pearlescent appearance.

[0016] As an embodiment of this application, the fatty acyl amino acid salt includes at least one of sodium cocoyl amino acid, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, and sodium cocoyl aminopropionate. The inventors of this application have found that the selection of the type of fatty acyl amino acid salt has a significant impact on whether a bicrystalline state can be formed and on the performance. This application uses sodium cocoyl amino acid, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, and sodium cocoyl aminopropionate as fatty acyl amino acid salts, which have excellent crystallinity. These fatty acyl amino acid salts can form a strong hydrogen bond network structure with hydrogenated castor oil, forming a clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystal structure, effectively improving the stability, makeup removal effect, extrusion effect, and foam richness of the surfactant.

[0017] As an embodiment of this application, the amino acid surfactant includes sodium cocoyl amino acid.

[0018] As an embodiment of this application, the hydrogenated castor oil has a mass percentage content of 5-19% in the dicrystalline surfactant, for example, it can be 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19% or any two of these values.

[0019] As an embodiment of this application, the hydrogenated castor oil has a mass percentage content of 10-15% in the dicrystalline surfactant.

[0020] As an embodiment of this application, the amino acid surfactant in the dicrystalline surfactant has a mass percentage content of 9 to 40.9%, for example, it can be 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 31%, 32%, 33%, 34%, 35%, 36%, 37%, 38%, 39%, 40%, 40.8%, or any two of these values.

[0021] As an embodiment of this application, the amino acid surfactant has a mass percentage content of 19-32% in the dicrystalline surfactant.

[0022] This application does not limit the preparation method of the bicrystalline surfactant. Those skilled in the art can prepare the bicrystalline surfactant according to the formula disclosed in this application and conventional technical means in the field.

[0023] For example, the preparation method of the bicrystalline surfactant is as follows: add amino acid surfactant and hydrogenated castor oil to water, heat to 50~85℃ and stir evenly, then cool to room temperature to obtain bicrystalline surfactant.

[0024] A second aspect of this application provides the use of a dicrystalline surfactant in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0025] As an embodiment of this application, the mass percentage of the bicrystalline surfactant in the cosmetic is 0.1% to 60%, for example, it can be 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 12%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 28%, 30%, 32%, 35%, 38%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, or any two of these values.

[0026] As an embodiment of this application, the mass percentage of the dicrystalline surfactant in the cosmetic is 1-60%.

[0027] As an embodiment of this application, the mass percentage of the dicrystalline surfactant in the cosmetic is 5-50%.

[0028] As an embodiment of this application, the mass percentage of the dicrystalline surfactant in the cosmetic is 10-50%.

[0029] A third aspect of this application provides a facial cleanser comprising the following components by weight percentage: 15-25% moisturizer, 4-10% betaine-based amphoteric surfactant, 30-50% dicrystalline surfactant, 3-6% amino acid-based amphoteric surfactant, 0.5-3% thickener, and 20-40% water; The dicrystalline surfactant is the dicrystalline surfactant described above.

[0030] The facial cleanser described in this application is resistant to freezing at low temperatures, does not become coarse, and does not separate; it is resistant to melting at high temperatures, does not release water, and does not separate; the facial cleanser has a clear pearlescent appearance, is gentle and non-irritating, and has good safety; in addition, the facial cleanser also has excellent makeup removal, extrusion, and cleansing effects, and can maintain good extrudability at different temperatures, especially at low temperatures.

[0031] The facial cleanser utilizes a surfactant system comprised of betaine-based amphoteric surfactants, surfactants, and amino acid-based amphoteric surfactants. The zwitterionic structures of the betaine-based and amino acid-based amphoteric surfactants can form hydrogen bonds and electrostatic attraction with the crystalline phase of the surfactant, improving its resistance to phase separation. The hydrophilic heads of these surfactants combine with the polar groups of the liquid crystal phase, optimizing the liquid crystal phase structure, improving its stability, and preventing structural damage, thus effectively enhancing the cleanser's stability. Simultaneously, the betaine-based and amino acid-based amphoteric surfactants can regulate interfacial tension, promoting oil emulsification and dispersion, and improving makeup removal. Furthermore, they optimize the cleanser's flowability, ensuring good lubrication of the liquid crystal phase even at low temperatures, reducing internal frictional resistance, and improving extrusion performance.

[0032] The amount of the moisturizer used is 15-25%, for example, it can be 15%, 16%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 24%, 25% or any two of these values.

[0033] The amount of the betaine surfactant is 4-10%, for example, it can be 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10% or any two of these values.

[0034] The amount of the bicrystalline surfactant is 30-50%, for example, it can be 30%, 32%, 34%, 35%, 36%, 38%, 40%, 42%, 44%, 45%, 46%, 48%, 50% or any two of these values.

[0035] The amount of the thickener is 0.5-3%, for example, it can be 0.5%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.8%, 2%, 2.2%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.8%, 3%, or any two of these values.

[0036] The amount of water used is 20-40%, for example, it can be 20%, 22%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 28%, 30%, 32%, 34%, 35%, 36%, 38%, 40% or any two of these values.

[0037] As an embodiment of this application, the moisturizer includes at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, and glyceryl polyether-26.

[0038] As an embodiment of this application, the betaine-based amphoteric surfactant includes at least one of cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine, and cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine.

[0039] As an embodiment of this application, the amino acid-based amphoteric surfactant includes at least one of sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate, sodium cocoyl amphoteric acetate, and sodium palmitole amphoteric acetate.

[0040] As an embodiment of this application, the thickener includes an acrylic (ester) copolymer.

[0041] Among them, representative acrylic (ester) copolymers include at least one of carbomer 980, carbomer 940, carbomer 941, carbomer 934, carbomer 2020, carbomer U20, and carbomer SF-1.

[0042] As an embodiment of this application, the facial cleanser may also contain excipients acceptable in the cosmetics field.

[0043] As an embodiment of this application, the excipients acceptable in the cosmetic field include, but are not limited to, at least one of emollients, emulsifiers, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters, penetration enhancers, chelating agents, fragrances, and pigments.

[0044] As an embodiment of this application, suitable emollients include, but are not limited to, at least one of the following: isododecane, isohexadecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, diisostearate malate, phytosterol malate oleate, squalane, hexyl laurate, castor oil, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, octyldodecyl alcohol, shea butter, dioctyl carbonate, jojoba oil, lanolin, sweet almond oil, dioctyl adipate, and cocoyl caprylate / capric ester.

[0045] As an embodiment of this application, suitable emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, at least one of glyceryl stearate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-5 trioleate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-13-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-24, sodium stearoyl glutamate, stearyl alcohol polyether-2, stearyl alcohol polyether-21, and hydrogenated lecithin.

[0046] As an embodiment of this application, suitable antioxidants include, but are not limited to, at least one of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resveratrol, pentaerythritol tetra(bis-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamic acid) ester, arbutin, tocopherol (vitamin E), and sodium metabisulfite.

[0047] As an embodiment of this application, suitable pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, at least one of arginine, tromethamine, aminomethylpropanol, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide.

[0048] As an embodiment of this application, suitable colorants include, but are not limited to, white, black, yellow, blue, green, pink, red, orange, purple, indigo, brown, and combinations thereof.

[0049] As an embodiment of this application, suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, isopentanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, glyceryl caprylate, cetylpyridinium chloride, and cetylpyridinium chloride.

[0050] This application does not limit the preparation method of the facial cleanser. Those skilled in the art can prepare it into a facial cleanser according to the formula disclosed in this application and conventional technical means in the field.

[0051] For example, the preparation method of the facial cleanser is as follows: water, moisturizer, betaine-based amphoteric surfactant, dicrystalline surfactant and amino acid-based amphoteric surfactant are stirred evenly at 70~95°C, thickener is added, stirred evenly, and cooled to room temperature to obtain facial cleanser.

[0052] The beneficial effects of this application are as follows: This application combines hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water according to the above-mentioned specific mass ratio to obtain a surfactant with a dicrystalline structure. The dicrystalline surfactant has a clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystal structure under a polarizing microscope, has excellent stability, can maintain the dicrystalline structure at both high and low temperatures, can achieve self-thickening, has a bright pearlescent appearance, and has excellent cleaning performance. It is suitable for preparing facial cleansing products and bath products, especially for preparing facial cleansing products. Attached Figure Description

[0053] Figure 1 This is a polarized light microscope image of the surfactant in Example 3 at 10°C.

[0054] Figure 2 This is a polarized light microscope image of the surfactant in Example 3 at 26°C.

[0055] Figure 3 This is a polarized light microscope image of the surfactant in Example 3 at 40°C.

[0056] Figure 4 The image shows the surfactant of Comparative Example 1 under a polarized light microscope at 26°C.

[0057] Figure 5 This is a polarized light microscope image of the surfactant in Comparative Example 2 at 26°C.

[0058] Figure 6 This is a polarized light microscope image of the surfactant from Example 3 after it has been stored at -5°C for one and a half months.

[0059] Figure 7 The image shows a polarized light microscope image of the surfactant from Example 3 after it has been placed at 46°C for one and a half months.

[0060] Figure 8 The image shows a polarized light microscope image of the surfactant from Example 3 after being placed at -18°C for 12 hours, at room temperature (25°C) for 12 hours, and at high temperature (46°C) for 12 hours, for a period of one and a half months.

[0061] Figure 9 This is a diagram of the chorionic allantoic membrane vascular stimulation test of chicken embryos before the facial cleanser test in Example 3.

[0062] Figure 10 This is a diagram of the chorionic allantoic membrane vascular stimulation test of chicken embryos after applying the facial cleanser in Example 3.

[0063] Figure 11 The image shows the hardening test results of the facial cleanser from Application Example 3 after being placed at 25°C for 13 days.

[0064] Figure 12 The image shows the hardening test results of the facial cleanser from Application Example 3 after being placed at 5°C for 13 days.

[0065] Figure 13 The image shows artificial leather being air-dried during a makeup removal test using the facial cleanser from Example 3.

[0066] Figure 14 To compare the facial cleanser used in Example 1 with the artificial leather that was air-dried during the makeup removal test. Detailed Implementation

[0067] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of the embodiments of this application clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of this application will be clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of this application, not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments in this application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of this application.

[0068] In this application, the technical features described in an open-ended manner include both closed technical solutions consisting of the listed features and open technical solutions that include the listed features.

[0069] In this application, numerical ranges are referred to as continuous unless otherwise specified, and include the minimum and maximum values ​​of the range, as well as every value between the minimum and maximum values. Furthermore, when the range refers to integers, it includes every integer between the minimum and maximum values ​​of the range. Additionally, when multiple ranges are provided to describe a feature or characteristic, the ranges may be merged. In other words, unless otherwise specified, all ranges disclosed herein should be understood to include any and all subranges to which they are incorporated.

[0070] The hydrogenated castor oil used in this application was purchased from Guangzhou Wanlu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0071] The sodium cocoyl amino acid in this application is derived from Guangzhou Baifurun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0072] The sodium cocoyl glycinate in this application is sourced from Guangzhou Baifurun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0073] The potassium cocoyl glycinate in this application is sourced from Guangzhou Baifurun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0074] The sodium cocoaminopropionate used in this application is sourced from Guangzhou Baifurun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0075] The cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine used in this application was purchased from Huayu Fine Chemicals.

[0076] The sodium lauroamphoacetate used in this application was purchased from BASF.

[0077] The acrylic (ester) copolymer (carbomer SF-1) used in this application was purchased from Lubrizol.

[0078] The sodium lauroyl sarcosinate in this application is sourced from Guangzhou Baifurun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0079] The disodium lauroyl glutamate in this application is sourced from Guangzhou Baifurun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0080] The sodium lauryl ether sulfate used in this application was purchased from Guangzhou Weike Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0081] The hydrogenated lecithin used in this application was purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0082] The sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate used in this application was purchased from Guangdong Lichen Aowei Industrial Co., Ltd.

[0083] The cocoa glucoside used in this application was purchased from Guangzhou Hefu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0084] Unless otherwise specified, all components, raw materials, or instruments used in the embodiments and comparative examples of this application are commercially available, and the components and raw materials used in each parallel experiment are the same.

[0085] Examples 1-7, Comparative Examples 1-10 The formulations of the surfactants in Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-10 are shown in Table 1 (all figures are parts by weight) and Table 2 (all figures are parts by weight). The formulations of the facial cleansers in Application Examples 1-13 and Comparative Application Examples 1-10 are shown in Table 3 (all figures are parts by weight).

[0086] The preparation methods of the surfactants in Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-10 are as follows: weigh each raw material according to the ratio, add the raw material to water, heat to 70°C and stir evenly, cool to room temperature, and obtain the surfactant.

[0087] The preparation methods of the facial cleansers in Application Examples 1-13 and Comparative Application Examples 1-10 are as follows: other components except for the acrylic (ester) copolymer are stirred at 92°C at 100 rpm for 40 min, then the acrylic (ester) copolymer is added and stirred at 100 rpm for 30 min, and then cooled to room temperature to obtain the facial cleanser.

[0088] Note: The facial cleansers used in Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-10 differ only in the choice of surfactant; the amount of surfactant added and the selection and content of other ingredients are the same. The facial cleansers used in Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-10 use the bicrystalline surfactants corresponding to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-10 (for example, the facial cleanser used in Example 1 uses the bicrystalline surfactant corresponding to Example 1, and so on for Examples 2-7 and Comparative Examples 1-10). The facial cleansers used in Examples 8-13 have different formulations, and all of them use the bicrystalline surfactant of Example 3.

[0089] Table 1 Table 2 Table 3 Test case 1. The surfactants of the examples and the comparative examples were observed under a polarizing microscope (Jiangnan Yongxin NP-800TRF, polarizing, eyepiece 10×, objective lens 10×) (temperatures were 10℃, 26℃, and 40℃ respectively) to determine whether they had a twinning state (a clear Maltese cross under a polarizing microscope indicates the presence of a liquid crystal phase, a needle-like crystalline structure under a polarizing microscope indicates the presence of a crystalline phase, and the presence of both a liquid crystal phase and a crystalline phase indicates a twinning state; otherwise, a twinning state is not present).

[0090] Table 4 Among them, the polarized light microscope images of the surfactant in Example 3 at 10℃, 26℃, and 40℃ are shown below. Figures 1-3 As shown, the polarizing microscope image of Comparative Example 1 at 26℃ is as follows. Figure 4 As shown, the polarizing microscope image of Comparative Example 2 at 26℃ is as follows. Figure 5 As shown in the figure, the surfactant of Example 3 has a clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystalline structure under a polarizing microscope, and has an obvious bicrystalline structure. Comparative Example 1 contains neither crystalline nor liquid crystal state under a polarizing microscope, while Comparative Example 2 contains only crystalline state under a polarizing microscope.

[0091] As can be seen from Table 4, the selection and ratio of raw materials have a significant impact on the formation of the bicrystalline structure. This application obtained a surfactant with a bicrystalline structure by controlling the amount of each raw material to be: 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water. The surfactant has clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystals over a wide temperature range. If the ratio of hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water deviates from the range of this application, or if other raw materials are used to replace hydrogenated castor oil or the amino acid surfactant of this application, a surfactant with a bicrystalline structure cannot be obtained.

[0092] 2. Stability Test: The surfactants of the examples and comparative examples were placed at a low temperature of -5°C for 1.5 months and observed under a polarizing microscope to see if they exhibited a twinning state (a clear Maltese cross under a polarizing microscope indicates the presence of a liquid crystal phase, a needle-like crystalline structure under a polarizing microscope indicates the presence of a crystalline phase, and the presence of both a liquid crystal phase and a crystalline phase indicates a twinning state; otherwise, a twinning state is not present). They were placed at 46°C for 1.5 months and observed under a polarizing microscope to see if they exhibited a twinning state. The same process was repeated, placing them at a low temperature of -18°C for 12 hours, at a room temperature of 25°C for 12 hours, and at a high temperature of 46°C for 12 hours, cycling for 1.5 months (referred to as a 45-day cycle) and observing under a polarizing microscope to see if they exhibited a twinning state.

[0093] Table 5 The image of Example 3, after being placed at -5°C for 1.5 months (45 days), is shown under a polarizing microscope. Figure 6 As shown, the image of Example 3 after being placed at a high temperature of 46°C for 1.5 months (45 days) under a polarizing microscope is shown below. Figure 7 As shown, the image of Example 3 observed under a polarizing microscope after cycling at -18°C, 25°C, and 46°C for one and a half months is shown. Figure 8 As shown in the figure, the surfactant of Example 3 has a clear Maltese cross and needle-like crystal structure under a polarizing microscope, exhibiting a distinct bicrystalline structure and excellent stability. It still retains the bicrystalline structure under high and low temperature conditions and high and low temperature cycling.

[0094] As shown in Table 5, the selection and proportion of raw materials have a significant impact on stability. This application controls the amount of each raw material to be: 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water; thus, a surfactant with excellent stability is obtained. This surfactant retains its Maltese cross and needle-like crystalline structures under high and low temperature conditions and high and low temperature cycling, and its bicrystalline structure remains intact. It provides antifreeze protection at low temperatures, without coarsening or precipitation; and prevents melting at high temperatures, without releasing water or separating. If the proportions of hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water deviate from the range of this application, or if other raw materials are used to replace hydrogenated castor oil or the amino acid surfactant of this application, the stability will significantly decrease, and the bicrystalline structure will not be present. The synergistic effect of hydrogenated castor oil and the amino acid surfactant of this application effectively improves the stability.

[0095] 3. Facial cleanser irritation test: The facial cleansers were tested according to the method of SNT 2329-2009, and the results were evaluated using the stimulus rating method.

[0096] The specific scores are shown in Table 6, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 7 (the lower the ES value, the lower the irritation).

[0097] Table 6 Table 7 The images of the chicken embryo chorionic allantoic membrane vascular stimulation test before and after the test in Example 3 are shown below. Figure 9 , 10 As shown.

[0098] As can be seen from Table 7, the facial cleanser containing surfactant described in this application has good safety, is mild and non-irritating, and will not cause irritation or allergic reactions.

[0099] The comparison between Application Examples 1-5 and Comparative Application Examples 1-2 shows that by controlling the amount of each raw material to 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water, the irritation of the surfactant can be effectively reduced.

[0100] A comparison of Application Example 3 with Comparative Application Examples 3-10 shows that replacing hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactants with other raw materials leads to increased irritation, especially replacing the fatty acyl amino acid salts with other surfactants, which significantly increases irritation. This application combines hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactants, and water in a specific ratio to form a bicrystalline structure. The amino and carboxyl groups at the head of the amino acid surfactant, together with the hydroxyl groups of the hydrogenated castor oil and water molecules, form a strong base, inducing the amino acid surfactant molecules to arrange themselves in an orderly manner. This results in a tight molecular arrangement, reducing the destructive effect on the skin barrier and causing only weak adsorption on the skin surface, effectively reducing cytotoxicity. Replacing hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactants with other raw materials disrupts the orderly molecular arrangement and makes it easier to form irregular rod-shaped micelles. Surfactants that cannot form a bicrystalline structure are more likely to insert into the cell membrane, disrupting membrane fluidity and permeability, and more easily causing cell rupture and apoptosis, exhibiting stronger irritation. This indicates that combining the hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water in the specific ratio specified in this application not only forms a bicrystalline structure and improves the stability of the surfactant, but also reduces irritation, making it milder and safer.

[0101] 4. Extrusion test The facial cleansers used in the application example and the control application example were placed at 25°C and 5°C for 13 days, respectively. After placement, the hardness of the facial cleansers was tested using a texture analyzer. The test results are shown in Table 8.

[0102] Table 8 The hardness data of Application Example 3 after being placed at 25°C for 13 days is shown in the figure below. Figure 11 As shown in the figure, the hardness data after being placed at 5℃ for 13 days is as follows. Figure 12 As shown.

[0103] As shown in Table 8, the selection and proportion of raw materials have a significant impact on the extrusion effect. This application controls the amount of each raw material to be: 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water; thus obtaining a surfactant with excellent extrusion effect. This surfactant effectively improves the extrudability of the facial cleanser, especially at low temperatures. If the proportions of hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water deviate from the range of this application, it will lead to a significant decrease in extrudability, especially at low temperatures.

[0104] A comparison of Application Examples 2-4 with Application Examples 1 and 5 shows that by controlling the amount of each raw material to 10-15 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 20-30 parts amino acid surfactant, and 55-70 parts water, extrudability was further improved.

[0105] A comparison of Application Example 3 with Comparative Application Examples 3-10 shows that when the surfactant is lacking hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, or when other raw materials are used to replace hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, extrudability will decrease significantly, especially at low temperatures. This application combines hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water in a specific ratio, which weakens the interaction forces between crystalline phase particles, breaks the formation of a dense crystalline network, and the layered aggregation structure of hydrogenated castor oil can limit the excessive growth of crystalline phase particles, keeping the crystalline phase in a small particulate state, avoiding hardening of the paste caused by particle agglomeration, and thus effectively improving extrudability. If other raw materials are used to replace hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, the intermolecular cohesive force increases, the sliding resistance between molecular chains increases, and the intermolecular frictional resistance increases, easily leading to partial "clumping" or partial "hardening," requiring higher pressure during extrusion. This application demonstrates that by combining hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactants, and water in a specific ratio, it not only improves the stability of the surfactant and reduces irritation, but also effectively improves extrudability, especially significantly improving low-temperature extrudability.

[0106] 5. Foam performance test Maximum foam volume at 25℃: The facial cleansers from the application example and the control application example were prepared into a facial cleansing solution with a mass concentration of 3%. Foam was generated by stirring using a Klüger foam apparatus. The obtained images were analyzed using foam analysis software, and the maximum foam volume was recorded.

[0107] Maximum foam volume (foam oil resistance) at 25℃: Prepare a 3% (w / w) facial cleanser solution containing simulated skin oil by mixing simulated skin oil, facial cleanser, and water in a mass ratio of 0.5:3:96.5. Use a Klüger foam apparatus to generate foam by stirring. Analyze the obtained images using foam analysis software and record the maximum foam volume.

[0108] The simulated skin oil contains the following components by weight percentage: 10% squalane, 17% isopropyl palmitate, 2% cholesterol oleate, 35% macadamia oil, 2% cholesterol, 4% glyceryl monomyristate, 3% myristic acid, 12% palmitic acid, 3% stearic acid, and 12% oleic acid.

[0109] Table 9 As can be seen from Table 9, the surfactant described in this application can effectively improve foam richness and foam oil resistance.

[0110] The comparison between Application Examples 1-5 and Comparative Application Examples 1-2 shows that the selection and proportion of raw materials have a significant impact on the extrusion effect. This application effectively improves the foam richness and oil resistance of the surfactant by controlling the amount of each raw material to be: 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water.

[0111] A comparison of Application Example 3 with Application Examples 3-10 shows that when the surfactant lacks hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, or when other raw materials are used to replace hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, the foam richness and foam oil resistance will significantly decrease. This application combines hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water in a specific ratio. When the resulting bicrystalline surfactant is subjected to external force (stirring, shaking, or kneading) to generate foam, the bicrystalline equilibrium structure is broken. During the dissociation of the bicrystalline structure, surfactant molecules are released from the tightly stacked crystalline and liquid crystal phases and rapidly diffuse to the gas-liquid interface, forming a large number of gas-liquid interfaces in a short time, thereby generating abundant foam. Simultaneously, it promotes the formation of a more ordered layered structure at the gas-liquid interface, improving the density of the interfacial film and effectively blocking the penetration of oily molecules, thus effectively improving the foam oil resistance. This indicates that this application's combination of hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water in a specific ratio not only improves the stability and extrudability of the surfactant and reduces irritation, but also improves foam richness and foam oil resistance.

[0112] 6. Makeup Removal Effect Experiment: Take artificial leather and draw a 3*3cm area. Take 0.1g of lipstick and apply it evenly to the test area. After waiting for 30 minutes until the lipstick is completely dry, use an LS171 colorimeter to measure the initial Lab value (recorded as L1, a1, and b1 respectively). Take 3 parallel data and calculate the average value. Apply 0.2g of facial cleanser to the above test area, add water and rub repeatedly. Then rinse with water and let the artificial leather air dry. Use an LS171 colorimeter to measure and record the Lab value after cleaning (recorded as L2, a2, and b2 respectively). Take 3 parallel data and calculate the average value. Calculate the △Eab value of the color contrast before and after. The larger the △Eab value, the better the makeup removal effect.

[0113] Where ΔL∗=L2−L1, Δa∗=a2−a1, Δb∗=b2−b1.

[0114] Table 10 Among them, the naturally air-dried artificial leather in Example 3 is such as Figure 13 As shown, in comparison with the naturally air-dried artificial leather of Application Example 1, such as... Figure 14 As shown.

[0115] As can be seen from Table 10, the facial cleanser containing surfactants described in this application has excellent makeup removal effect.

[0116] The comparison between Application Examples 1-5 and Comparative Application Examples 1-2 shows that the selection and ratio of raw materials have a significant impact on the extrusion effect. This application effectively improves the makeup removal effect of the surfactant by controlling the amount of each raw material to be: 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water.

[0117] A comparison of Application Example 3 with Application Examples 3-10 shows that when the surfactant lacks hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, or when other raw materials are used to replace hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, the makeup removal effect will be significantly reduced. This application combines hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water in a specific ratio. The special bicrystalline structure formed by the fatty acyl amino acid salt, hydrogenated castor oil, and water can quickly penetrate into the oil. The long-chain hydrophobic skeleton of hydrogenated castor oil can enhance the lipophilicity of the liquid crystal phase, disrupting the adhesion between oil and the skin surface, effectively improving the makeup removal effect of the surfactant. If other raw materials are used to replace hydrogenated castor oil or amino acid surfactant, the interfacial adsorption rate decreases, the wetting effect on the area requiring makeup removal decreases, oil stains are difficult to completely remove, and the residue rate increases. This application's specific combination of hydrogenated castor oil, amino acid surfactant, and water not only improves the surfactant's stability, extrudability, foam richness, and foam oil resistance, and reduces irritation, but also enhances the surfactant's makeup removal effect.

[0118] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of this application and are not intended to limit the scope of protection of this application. Although this application has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made to the technical solutions of this application without departing from the substance and scope of the technical solutions of this application.

Claims

1. A bicrystalline surfactant, characterized in that, The product comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-20 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 10-40 parts amino acid surfactant, and 53-80 parts water; The amino acid surfactant includes fatty acyl amino acid salts.

2. The dicrystalline surfactant according to claim 1, characterized in that, It includes the following components in parts by weight: 10-15 parts hydrogenated castor oil, 20-30 parts amino acid surfactant, and 55-70 parts water.

3. The dimorphic surfactant according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fatty acyl amino acid salt includes at least one of sodium cocoyl amino acid, potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, and sodium cocoyl aminopropionate.

4. The dimorphic surfactant according to claim 1, characterized in that, The hydrogenated castor oil has a mass percentage content of 5-19% in the dicrystalline surfactant; and / or The amino acid surfactant has a mass percentage of 9-40.9% in the dicrystalline surfactant.

5. The dicrystalline surfactant according to claim 4, characterized in that, The hydrogenated castor oil has a mass percentage content of 10-15% in the dicrystalline surfactant; and / or The amino acid surfactant comprises 19-32% by mass in the dicrystalline surfactant.

6. The use of the dicrystalline surfactant according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in the preparation of cosmetics.

7. The application according to claim 6, characterized in that, The dicrystalline surfactant has a mass percentage of 0.1% to 60% in the cosmetic.

8. A facial cleanser, characterized in that, It includes the following components by weight percentage: 15-25% humectant, 4-10% betaine-based amphoteric surfactant, 30-50% dicrystalline surfactant, 3-6% amino acid-based amphoteric surfactant, 1.5-3% thickener, and 20-40% water; The dicrystalline surfactant is any one of the dicrystalline surfactants described in claims 1 to 5.

9. The facial cleanser according to claim 8, characterized in that, The betaine-based amphoteric surfactant includes at least one of cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine, and cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine; and / or The amino acid-based amphoteric surfactant includes at least one of sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate, sodium cocoyl amphoteric acetate, and sodium palmitole amphoteric acetate.

10. The facial cleanser according to claim 8, characterized in that, The moisturizer includes at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, and glyceryl polyether-26; and / or The thickener includes acrylic (ester) copolymers.

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