Compositions and methods of use thereof

By combining oil-soluble/oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients, solid lipids, liquid lipids, and double-chain and single-chain surfactants, the instability and compatibility issues of NLC in cosmetics were solved, resulting in a stable nanostructured lipid carrier that is easy to produce and improves the loading capacity of active ingredients and the uniformity of the formulation.

CN122121850APending Publication Date: 2026-05-29LOREAL SA

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2023-11-07
Publication Date
2026-05-29

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Abstract

A composition comprising (i) at least one oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) at least one solid lipid different from component (i); (iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i); and (iv) a combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant, wherein the ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is from 0.3 to 1000, preferably from 0.35 to 500, more preferably from 0.4 to 100, most preferably from 0.5 to 50 is provided. Also provided is a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials comprising applying the composition to a keratin material.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a composition. In particular, it relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials. Background Technology

[0002] The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments, and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions, such as protection against mechanical and chemical damage, microbial damage, and ultraviolet radiation damage.

[0003] Many products have been developed for delivering active ingredients to the skin.

[0004] Solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) are used to deliver active ingredients, especially hydrophobic cosmetic active ingredients. Some cosmetic active ingredients, such as ceramides, are insoluble in water. Directly dissolving them in oil can result in a greasy feel. Thanks to solid lipid nanocarriers (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), they can be easily incorporated into water-based formulations to obtain homogeneous suspensions.

[0005] The unique structure of NLCs brings advantages, such as increased active ingredient loading capacity and reduced risk of active ingredient efflux.

[0006] However, some NLCs on the market have irregular and imperfect structures due to the incorporation of certain liquid lipids into a solid lipid matrix. This leads to compatibility issues when NLCs are introduced into cosmetic products, resulting in product instability.

[0007] Furthermore, typical methods for preparing NLCs require high mechanical energy input, are costly, and are difficult to implement at the industrial level.

[0008] Therefore, there is a desire to develop new products containing nanostructured lipid carriers that encapsulate oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients, which are stable and easy to manufacture. Summary of the Invention

[0009] One object of this application is to provide a product containing a nanostructured lipid carrier encapsulating an oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient, which is stable and can be easily manufactured.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that the above-mentioned objectives can be achieved through this invention.

[0011] Therefore, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition comprising the following components: (i) at least one oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) at least one solid lipid that is different from component (i); (iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i); and (iv) A combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant, The ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of solid lipids and liquid lipids is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, and most preferably 0.5 to 50.

[0012] In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture. Nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients can be readily formed from homogeneous mixtures.

[0013] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a nanostructured lipid carrier encapsulating an oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient. Nanostructured lipid carriers encapsulating oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients can be readily formed.

[0014] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of a nanostructured lipid carrier encapsulating an oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient in an aqueous phase.

[0015] The compositions of this invention can be used for skin care.

[0016] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying a composition according to a first aspect of the present invention to the keratin material.

[0017] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the following description and embodiments. Detailed Implementation

[0018] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where the definitions of terms in this specification conflict with the meanings commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains, the definitions set forth herein shall prevail.

[0019] In the following text and unless otherwise specified, the limits of the numerical range are included within the range, particularly in the expressions “between … and …” and “… to …”.

[0020] Furthermore, the expression "at least one / kind" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one / kind or more / kinds".

[0021] Throughout this application, the term "comprising / including / containing" should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, or unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising / including / containing" also discloses embodiments in which features other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., "composed of") are absent.

[0022] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values, such as those representing quantities of ingredients, used in the specification and claims should be understood to be modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate and can be changed as needed for desired purposes.

[0023] For the purposes of this invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to encompass human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is of particular consideration according to this invention.

[0024] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages in this invention refer to weight percentages.

[0025] According to a first aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises the following components: (i) at least one oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) at least one solid lipid that is different from component (i); (iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i); and (iv) A combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant, The ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of solid lipids and liquid lipids is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, and most preferably 0.5 to 50.

[0026] Oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients According to a first aspect, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient.

[0027] As used herein, oil-soluble cosmetic active ingredients mean that the active ingredient has a solubility of at least 1 g / 100 g in oil as measured at 25°C. Oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients mean that the active ingredient has a solubility of at least 1 g / 100 g in oil as measured at 80°C.

[0028] Preferably, the oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is selected from fragrances, antioxidants, UV fillers, chelating agents, and combinations thereof.

[0029] Examples of oil-soluble / oil-dispersible antioxidants include, but are not limited to, ceramides, retinol, ferulic acid, beta-carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythritol tetra(bis-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamic acid) ester, and diethylhexyl syringite malonate.

[0030] Examples of oil-soluble / oil-dispersible UV fillers (filters) include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and terephthaloyl dicamphor sulfonic acid.

[0031] Examples of oil-soluble / oil-dispersible chelating agents include, but are not limited to, sodium phytate and gluconate.

[0032] Advantageously, the oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients are selected from ceramides, retinol, ferulic acid, β-carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythritol tetra(bis-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamic acid) ester, diethylhexyl eugenol malonate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalamide dicamphor sulfonic acid, sodium phytate, gluconate, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] In some embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises ceramide.

[0034] Advantageously, the oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0035] solid lipids According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one solid lipid that is different from component (i), i.e., different from oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients.

[0036] As used in this article, "solid lipids" refers to lipids that are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 It is a solid at Pa. The melting point is above 25°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0037] Solid lipids may be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Advantageously, the solid fatty acid contains 12-24 carbons and a carboxyl group, preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, benzyl acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Advantageously, the solid fatty alcohol contains 12-24 carbons and one hydroxyl group, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Advantageously, the wax is of animal, plant, or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic wax, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, crown palm wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax, and lacquer wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, and ceresin wax, or mixtures thereof.

[0041] Advantageously, the monoglyceride, diglyceride or triglyceride is selected from esters of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, the monoglyceride, diglyceride or triglyceride is selected from one or more monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0042] According to some preferred embodiments, the solid lipids are selected from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, crown palm wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and lacquer wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax and mixtures thereof.

[0043] Advantageously, solid lipids are present in the composition in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0044] Liquid lipids According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one liquid lipid that is different from component (i), i.e., different from oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients.

[0045] Preferably, the liquid lipid is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0046] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is liquid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C).

[0047] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that is essentially composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, or even solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally contains oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and contains no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups.

[0048] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that is essentially formed or even constituted by carbon and hydrogen atoms, with optional oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and contains no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amino, and / or amide groups.

[0049] As hydrocarbon-based oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0050] More preferably, the liquid lipids are selected from: - Straight-chain or branched C6-C16 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and iso-alkanes such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and isodecane; - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam® and squalane; - Short-chain esters containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, or n-butyl acetate. - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, - Ester, such as formula R 1 C(O)-OR 2 The oil, of which R 1 This indicates straight-chain or branched fatty acid residues containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 This refers to hydrocarbon-based chains containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly branched chains, provided that R... 1 +R 2 ≥10, for example, duck tail preen gland oil (cetearyl caprylate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C benzoate 12 To C 15 Alkyl esters, hexyl laurate, octanoic / decanoic triglycerides; diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoate, alkyl or polyalkyl decanoate, or alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleate, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearate lactate, diisostearate malate, and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters; - Liquid at room temperature, having a fatty alcohol with branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

[0051] Even more preferably, the liquid lipid is selected from straight-chain C6-C14 alkanes, branched-chain C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, squalane, caprylic / capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Advantageously, the liquid lipids are present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0053] It has been found that the combination of solid lipids and liquid lipids can increase the loading capacity of oil-soluble / oil-dispersible active ingredients.

[0054] For the purposes of this invention, preferably, the weight ratio of solid lipids to liquid lipids is 1 to 1000, more preferably 2 to 500, more preferably 3 to 100, and even more preferably 4 to 50.

[0055] Double-chain surfactants According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one double-chain surfactant.

[0056] Double-chain surfactants are different from components (i), (ii) and (iii) defined above.

[0057] Preferably, the double-chain surfactant is selected from double-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] More preferably, the double-chain surfactant is selected from polyglycerol fatty acid diesters, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Even more preferably, the double-chain nonionic surfactant is selected from: One or more saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerol diesters having polyglycerol moieties derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units; Dialkyl sulfosuccinate, wherein the alkyl group has 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and the counter ion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions. Lecithin, and Its mixture.

[0060] Examples of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms include lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

[0061] In particular, examples of polyglycerol fatty acid diesters include, but are not limited to, PG2 didecanoate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 distearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 dioleate, PG3 didecanoate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 distearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 dioleate, PG4 didecanoate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 distearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 dioleate, PG5 didecanoate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 distearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 dioleate, PG6 didecanoate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 dilaurate, P G6 dimyristic acid ester, PG6 distearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 dioleate, PG7 didecanoate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 dimyristic acid ester, PG7 distearate, PG7 diisostearate, PG7 dioleate, PG8 didecanoate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 dimyristic acid ester, PG8 distearate, PG8 diisostearate, PG8 dioleate, PG9 didecanoate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 dilaurate, PG9 dimyristic acid ester, PG9 distearate, PG9 diisostearate, PG9 dioleate, PG10 didecanoate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 dimyristic acid ester, PG10 distearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Examples of dialkyl sulfosuccinates include, but are not limited to, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, sodium didecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium di(undecyl) sulfosuccinate, sodium dilaurylate sulfosuccinate, sodium dicosyl sulfosuccinate, sodium di(tridecyl) sulfosuccinate, sodium dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, and dioctyl sulfosuccinate. Ammonium sulfosuccinate, didecyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, di(undecyl) sulfosuccinate ammonium, dilauryl sulfosuccinate ammonium, dicocoyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, di(tridecyl) sulfosuccinate ammonium, dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dinonyl sulfosuccinate potassium, diisononyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate potassium, diheptyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dihexyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate potassium, didecyl sulfosuccinate potassium, di(undecyl) sulfosuccinate potassium, dilauryl sulfosuccinate potassium, dicocoyl sulfosuccinate potassium, di(tridecyl) sulfosuccinate potassium, dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate potassium, and dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate potassium.

[0063] Examples of lecithin include, but are not limited to, phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine.

[0064] Most preferably, the double-chain nonionic surfactant is selected from PG10 dioleate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, phosphatidylcholine, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Advantageously, the double-chain surfactant is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0066] Single-chain surfactants According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one single-chain surfactant.

[0067] Single-chain surfactants are different from components (i), (ii) and (iii) defined above.

[0068] Preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from single-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] More preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from monoesters of polyglycerol fatty acids, sucrose esters, alkyl glucosides, polysorbates, amino acid surfactants, tertiary ammonium salts (e.g., stearamide propyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oleamide propyl dimethylamine) and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Even more preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from one or more monoesters of polyglycerol containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, including saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids and polyglycerol having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferred examples of monoesters of polyglycerol fatty acids include PG2 decanoate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 decanoate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 oleate, PG4 decanoate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 oleate, PG5 decanoate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 decanoate, PG6 caprylate, and PG6 lauric acid. Esters, PG6 myristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 oleate, PG7 decanoate, PG7 caprylate, PG7 laurate, PG7 myristate, PG7 stearate, PG7 isostearate, PG7 oleate, PG8 decanoate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 laurate, PG8 myristate, PG8 stearate, PG8 isostearate, PG8 oleate, PG9 decanoate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, PG9 isostearate, PG9 oleate, PG10 decanoate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate and PG10 oleate.

[0072] Preferably, the anionic amino acid surfactant is represented by formula (I): in: Z represents a straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. X is either hydrogen or methyl. n is 0 or 1, Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O - M + , -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O - M + ,and M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in formula (I): Z represents the straight chain C8-C 22 Alkyl or alkenyl, X is either hydrogen or methyl. When n is 0, Y is selected from hydrogen, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O - M + ,and M is a salt-forming cation, such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.

[0074] Examples of amino acid surfactants are salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof.

[0075] More specifically, amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecenoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alanine, sodium cocoyl alanine, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alanine, sodium myristoyl methyl β-alanine, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alanine, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, and sodium myristoyl glycinate are mentioned. Sodium myristoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium hexanoyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium hexanoyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium hexanoyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium hexanoyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] According to the present invention, the preferred amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA salt of cocoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Even more preferably, the single-chain surfactant is selected from PG10 laurate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Advantageously, the single-chain nonionic surfactant is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0079] It has been found that the combination of double-chain and single-chain surfactants can promote the self-emulsification of molten lipids, thereby enabling the spontaneous formation of nano-sized droplets at high temperatures.

[0080] In the compositions of the present invention, the ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of solid lipids and liquid lipids is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, more preferably 0.5 to 50, more preferably 0.6 to 45, more preferably 0.7 to 40, more preferably 0.8 to 35, more preferably 0.9 to 30, even more preferably 1 to 25, and most preferably 1 to 20.

[0081] Aqueous phase The compositions of the present invention may contain a continuous aqueous phase.

[0082] The aqueous phase contains water.

[0083] Advantageously, water is present in an amount of 20% to 99% by weight, preferably 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Other cosmetic active ingredients In addition to the oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredients mentioned above, the compositions of the present invention may also contain other cosmetic active ingredients.

[0085] Those skilled in the art can readily adjust the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredients based on the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0086] Other adjuvants or additives The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as preservatives and bactericides, thickeners, pH adjusters, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Those skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the final use of the composition according to the invention.

[0088] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials, the composition comprising, by weight of the total composition: (i) at least one oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient, ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight; (ii) 3% to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid selected from beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, crown palm wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and lacquer wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.3% to 2% by weight of at least one liquid lipid selected from straight-chain C6-C14 alkanes, branched-chain C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, squalane, caprylic / capric triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; and (iv) 1% to 6% by weight of at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant selected from one or more diesters of polyglycerol comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids and having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units; and 1% to 6% by weight of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from one or more monoesters of polyglycerol comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids and having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The ratio of the total weight of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of solid lipids and liquid lipids is 0.5 to 50, preferably 0.6 to 45, more preferably 0.7 to 40, more preferably 0.8 to 35, more preferably 0.9 to 30, even more preferably 1 to 25, and most preferably 1 to 20.

[0089] Galen Forms and Methods In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture from which nanostructured lipid carriers can be readily formed by spontaneous emulsification (i.e., phase inversion composition) without involving a violent mechanical energy input, such as high-speed and high-pressure homogenization, ultrasonic treatment, or membrane emulsification.

[0090] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a nanostructured lipid carrier encapsulating an oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient.

[0091] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of a nanostructured lipid carrier encapsulating an oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient in an aqueous phase.

[0092] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is semi-translucent or semi-translucent.

[0093] When the particle size of the nanoparticles is 110 to 150 nm, the composition is slightly translucent; and when the particle size of the nanoparticles is less than 110 nm, the composition is translucent. When the particle size of the nanoparticles is greater than 500 nm, the composition is creamy.

[0094] The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of emulsions, creams, serums, etc.

[0095] The compositions of the present invention can be used as shampoos, hair dyes, hair conditions, skin care products, etc.

[0096] Therefore, the compositions of the present invention can be used in keratin care materials.

[0097] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying a composition according to a first aspect of the present invention to the keratin material. Example

[0098] The following examples are used to illustrate the present invention, but are not limiting.

[0099] Table 1 lists the main raw materials used, their product names, and their suppliers.

[0100] Table 1 Invention Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-10 The compositions of Invention Examples (IE.) 1-10 and Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-10 in suspension form were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2-4. The amounts of each component are given as a percentage by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0101] Table 2 Polyglycerol dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol contains 99.95% by weight of polyglycerol dioleate-10 and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0102] The compositions of Examples 1-4 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0103] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not contain at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0104] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not contain at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0105] The composition of Comparative Example 3 comprises at least one double-chain surfactant, at least one single-chain surfactant, at least one solid lipid and at least one liquid lipid, wherein the total weight ratio of the at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight ratio of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.2.

[0106] Table 3 Polyglycerol dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol contains 99.95% by weight of polyglycerol dioleate-10 and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0107] The compositions of Examples 5-8 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0108] The compositions of Comparative Examples 4 and 5 do not contain at least one liquid lipid.

[0109] The composition of Comparative Example 6 does not contain at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0110] The composition of Comparative Example 7 does not contain at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0111] Table 4 Polyglycerol dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol contains 99.95% by weight of polyglycerol dioleate-10 and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0112] The compositions of Examples 9 and 10 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0113] The composition of Comparative Example 8 does not contain at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0114] The composition of Comparative Example 9 does not contain at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0115] The composition of Comparative Example 10 does not contain at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant and at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0116] All compositions are in suspension form.

[0117] Preparation method: Taking the composition of Example 1 as an example, the above-listed composition is prepared as follows: 1) Mix solid lipids (candelilla wax), liquid lipids (squalane), surfactants (polyglycerol-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol, polyglycerol-10 laurate) and active ingredients (ceramide NP) at 85°C until a homogeneous oil phase is obtained; 2) Heat the water to 85℃; 3) Add the oil phase obtained in step 1) to water for about 10 minutes with stirring to obtain a suspension; and 4) Rapidly cool the obtained suspension to room temperature with slow stirring.

[0118] evaluate The suspensions of Invention Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-10 are evaluated as follows.

[0119] Stability and particle size The samples were maintained at 4℃, room temperature (25℃), and 45℃ for 2 months, respectively.

[0120] The particle size in the samples was characterized using a Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) instrument. Each sample was tested three times. Particle size was measured in both fresh and aged samples to monitor stability.

[0121] Table 5 lists the main experimental parameters set for the DLS experiment.

[0122] Table 5 Tables 6-8 show the effective diameter and polydispersity index (PDI) of each suspension of Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-10 after 2 months of storage.

[0123] Table 6 Table 7 Table 8 Effective diameter: average diameter.

[0124] The term "unmeasurable" means that the sample is too turbid / cloudy to be measured due to the presence of too many large particles.

[0125] The smaller the effective diameter, the higher the transparency of the suspension. When the effective diameter is less than 110 nm, the suspension appears translucent. When the effective diameter is between 110 nm and 500 nm, the suspension appears slightly translucent. When the effective diameter is greater than 500 nm, the suspension appears creamy.

[0126] The polydispersity index (PDI) is an index that reflects the degree of polydispersity. The smaller the PDI, the better the stability.

[0127] If a sample stored for a period of time has an effective diameter of less than 500 nm and does not form large aggregates on the container wall, the sample is considered "stable"; otherwise, the sample is considered "unstable".

[0128] The samples were then examined using a polarizing microscope. For samples that maintained a translucent or semi-translucent appearance and did not form large visible aggregates on the container walls, if some micron-sized crystals were observed under a polarizing microscope, they were considered "stable but micron-sized crystals".

[0129] Table 9-11 shows the stability of each suspension of Invention Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-10 after 2 months of storage.

[0130] Table 9 Table 10 Table 11 As can be seen from Table 6-11, the suspensions according to Examples 1-10 of the invention have a translucent or slightly translucent appearance and are stable for at least 2 months.

Claims

1. A composition comprising the following components: (i) at least one oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient; (ii) at least one solid lipid that is different from component (i); (iii) at least one liquid lipid different from component (i); and (iv) A combination of at least one double-chain surfactant and at least one single-chain surfactant, The ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.3 to 1000, preferably 0.35 to 500, more preferably 0.4 to 100, and most preferably 0.5 to 50.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is selected from fragrances, antioxidants, UV fillers, chelating agents, and combinations thereof; preferably selected from ceramides, retinol, ferulic acid, β-carotene, oryzanol, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin C glucoside, pentaerythritol tetra(bis-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamic acid) ester, diethylhexyl eugenol malonate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalamide dicamphor sulfonic acid, sodium phytate, gluconate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, ceramides.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the solid lipid is selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 4, wherein The solid fatty acid contains 12-24 carbons and one carboxyl group. Preferably, the solid fatty acid is selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, benzyl acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the solid fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof. The solid fatty alcohol contains 12-24 carbon atoms and one hydroxyl group. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The wax is of animal, plant, or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic wax, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the wax is selected from hydrocarbon wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, crown palm wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax, and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, and ceresin wax, or mixtures thereof. The monoglyceride, diglyceride, or triglyceride is selected from one or more saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, the monoglyceride, diglyceride, or triglyceride is selected from one or more monoglycerides, diglycerides, or triglycerides selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the solid lipid is present in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the liquid lipid is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils; preferably selected from straight-chain or branched C6-C16 alkanes, liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutylene, squalane, short-chain esters containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and formula R 1 C(O)-OR 2 ester oils, of which R 1 This indicates straight-chain or branched fatty acid residues containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 This represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R... 1 +R 2 ≥10, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from straight-chain C6-C14 alkanes, branched-chain C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, squalane, caprylic / capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the liquid lipid is present in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the weight ratio of the solid lipid to the liquid lipid is 1 to 1000, preferably 2 to 500, more preferably 3 to 100, and even more preferably 4 to 50.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the double-chain surfactant is selected from double-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from polyglycerol fatty acid diesters, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from one or more saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerol diesters having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, dialkyl sulfosuccinates, wherein the alkyl group has 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and the counterion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions, lecithin, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from PG10 dioleate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, phosphatidylcholine, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the double-chain surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the single-chain surfactant is selected from single-chain nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoesters of polyglycerol fatty acids, sucrose esters, alkyl glucosides, polysorbate esters, amino acid surfactants, tertiary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from one or more saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and monoesters of polyglycerol having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units. Ionic amino acid surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from PG2 decanoate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 decanoate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 oleate, PG4 decanoate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 oleate, PG5 decanoate, and PG5 caprylate. PG5 Laurate, PG5 Myristate, PG5 Stearate, PG5 Isostearate, PG5 Oleate, PG6 Decanoate, PG6 Caprylate, PG6 Laurate, PG6 Myristate, PG6 Stearate, PG6 Isostearate, PG6 Oleate, PG7 Decanoate, PG7 Caprylate, PG7 Laurate, PG7 Myristate, PG7 Stearate, PG7 Isostearate, PG7 Oleate, PG8 Decanoate, PG8 Caprylate, PG8 Laurate, PG8 Myristate, PG8 Stearate, PG8 Isostearic Acid Esters, PG8 oleate, PG9 decanoate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, PG9 isostearate, PG9 oleate, PG10 decanoate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 oleate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA salts of cocoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the single-chain surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, it comprises: (i) at least one oil-soluble / oil-dispersible cosmetic active ingredient, ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight; (ii) 3% to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid selected from beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, crown palm wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and lacquer wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.3% to 2% by weight of at least one liquid lipid selected from straight-chain C6-C14 alkanes, branched-chain C6-C16 alkanes, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, squalane, caprylic / capric triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; and (iv) 1% to 6% by weight of at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant selected from one or more diesters of polyglycerol comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids and having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units; and 1% to 6% by weight of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from one or more monoesters of polyglycerol comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms of saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids and having a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, anionic amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The ratio of the total weight of the at least one double-chain surfactant and the at least one single-chain surfactant to the total weight of the solid lipid and the liquid lipid is 0.5 to 50, preferably 0.6 to 45, more preferably 0.7 to 40, more preferably 0.8 to 35, more preferably 0.9 to 30, even more preferably 1 to 25, and most preferably 1 to 20.

15. A non-therapeutic method for treating keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin material.