Hair treatment method comprising the application, after bleaching, of a composition comprising amino acids and hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair treatment process for keratin fibres, comprising: - a step of applying a bleaching composition, and then - a step (ii) of applying a cosmetic composition B1 comprising at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an amino-acid type compound and of a hydroxylated C2-C8 (poly)carboxylic acid, and then - a step (iii) of applying a cosmetic composition B2 comprising at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an amino-acid type compound and of a hydroxylated C2-C8 (poly)carboxylic acid, steps (ii) and (iii) being spaced apart by at most 2 hours. The present invention also relates to a hair treatment process for keratin fibres, comprising: - a step of applying a bleaching composition, and then a step of applying a cosmetic composition B1 comprising an amino-acid type compound, a hydroxylated C2-C8 (poly)carboxylic acid and at least 0.6% of a polysaccharide, and then a step of applying a cosmetic composition B2 comprising an amino-acid type compound, a hydroxylated C2-C8 (poly-)carboxylic acid and less than 0.6% of a polysaccharide.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to a hair treatment method, particularly a hair treatment method for dyeing and / or bleaching keratin fibers, especially hair, comprising applying at least two compositions, each containing a specific amino acid and a carboxylic acid, to the keratin fibers after applying a bleaching composition.

[0002] A known practice is to use hair bleaching methods to alter the natural color of hair. These methods typically involve applying a hair-applied composition containing chemical oxidants and optionally direct and / or oxidative dyes to keratin fibers.

[0003] These hair-dyeing or bleaching compositions undoubtedly have dyeing or bleaching capabilities, but they can occasionally lead to reduced fiber quality, and the proteins that make up hair may denature, resulting in unstable proteins. The higher the content of unstable proteins, the more damage to the hair.

[0004] This reduction in fiber quality can lead to significant breakage during combing, especially when these compositions are applied to sensitized hair. Therefore, it is common practice to rely on hair care compositions containing conditioning agents to limit the reduction or improvement of the hair's cosmetic properties. However, in some cases, these hair care compositions may impair the dyeing or bleaching of so-called treated keratin fibers.

[0005] Furthermore, when hair is sensitized by repeated chemical treatments (such as dyeing, bleaching, permanent wavy shaping, and / or relaxation), and / or when hair is loaded with minerals and / or their metal salts, dyeing or bleaching performance may not always be satisfactory, particularly in terms of color build-up, color intensity, or evenness, or in terms of shine. Specifically, tap water may sometimes contain high levels of metals such as copper, which can negatively impact the results of dyeing or bleaching by accumulating on the hair during continuous washing. Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metal salts due to the presence of anionic functional groups on its surface, which specifically correspond to the sulfonic or carboxylic acid functional groups of keratin. The minerals (very often polyvalent cations) are thus attracted to this negatively charged fiber and trapped by forming chemical bonds, preventing their release through conventional hair treatments. This leads to the potential accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. This fixation depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of the hair's exposure to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (especially porosity and charge), as well as its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metal salts can lead to modifications of the hair fibers, and more or less significantly alterations to the cosmetic properties of the hair strands. Thus, the accumulation of calcium and magnesium can cause dry, dull hair, while the accumulation of copper can cause the hair to turn green.

[0007] In addition, the accumulation of metal (such as iron and copper) salts can accelerate damage to hair because they catalyze oxidation / reduction reactions and produce hydroxyl groups that can be harmful to keratin fibers, including in low concentrations.

[0008] This can lead to photodegradation of fibers, fiber brightening, and harmful changes in hair properties, which may cause premature breakage of hair strands; these phenomena are particularly observed during subsequent use of brightening or coloring products.

[0009] In other words, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metal salts, hair may become less resistant, more fragile, and actually more prone to breakage, or it may lose its shine.

[0010] Therefore, it is necessary to find a technological solution that can overcome these different drawbacks and ultimately lead to improved dyeing or bleaching of hair, especially hair that has been repeatedly chemically sensitized and / or loaded with mineral and / or metal ions.

[0011] The applicant has unexpectedly discovered that all these objectives can be achieved by the method according to the invention, which includes applying a specific composition after a step of bleaching keratin fibers.

[0012] First Embodiment

[0013] Therefore, one subject of the present invention is a hair treatment method for keratin fibers, especially hair, particularly a dyeing and / or bleaching method, the method comprising:

[0014] - Step (i) of applying hair bleaching composition A to the keratin fibers, and then

[0015] - Step (ii) of applying cosmetic composition B1 to the keratin fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.5% by weight of one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, and then...

[0016] - Step (iii) of applying cosmetic composition B2 to the keratin fibers, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof;

[0017] Steps (ii) and (iii) should be spaced out by a maximum of 2 hours, especially a maximum of 90 minutes, or even a maximum of 60 minutes, preferably a maximum of 30 minutes, or even better a maximum of 15 minutes.

[0018] Second Embodiment

[0019] The subject of this invention is also a hair treatment method for keratin fibers, especially hair, particularly a dyeing and / or bleaching method, the method comprising:

[0020] - Step (i) of applying hair bleaching composition A to the keratin fibers, and then

[0021] - Step (ii) of applying cosmetic composition B1 to the keratin fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof; and one or more polysaccharides present in a total amount of at least 0.6% by weight, and then

[0022] - Step (iii) of applying cosmetic composition B2 to the keratin fibers, the cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof; and one or more polysaccharides present in a total amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight.

[0023] It has been found that the method according to the invention enables the improvement of hair's resistance to breakage, strengthens the hair, and also significantly limits the reduction or loss of its shine, which is due to the undesirable effects that are easily caused by the presence of metal ions, especially copper or calcium ions, within the fibers.

[0024] After one of these methods is performed, the fibers appear to be strengthened, and this strengthening is improved with continued application of the composition.

[0025] The method according to the invention also enables the provision of conditioning properties to the hair, particularly a smooth feel, softness, suppleness, shine, and easy detangling, while providing strength, body, and volume to the entire head of hair.

[0026] Therefore, the method according to the invention is particularly suitable for hair that has become sensitized, fragile and / or damaged, especially due to physical treatments (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments (e.g., dyeing, bleaching, permanent wavy shaping and / or loosening).

[0027] They are also particularly suitable for cosmetic treatments of hair containing metals, especially metals in a concentration of at least 100 ppm, and more preferably at least 200 ppm; particularly copper in a concentration of at least 100 ppm, and more preferably at least 200 ppm and / or calcium in a concentration of at least 4000 ppm, and more preferably at least 10000 ppm.

[0028] It has also been found that the second method described above allows the surfactant to penetrate the hair strands better, and the conditioning composition (optionally applied at the end of the method) to deposit better.

[0029] method

[0030] For clarity, the term “method” is specified in the remainder of this specification, and unless otherwise indicated, means one or another of the methods described above; therefore, the term “method” should be interpreted as “these methods”.

[0031] In the method according to the invention, steps (i), (ii) and (iii) are performed sequentially and in that order.

[0032] Therefore, the hair treatment method according to the present invention includes step (i) of applying hair bleaching composition A to keratin fibers, the preferred embodiments of which are described in more detail below.

[0033] This step (i) may be followed by a stay of 1 to 60 minutes, especially 15 to 50 minutes.

[0034] After an optional dwell time, this step can be followed by, for example, rinsing the keratin fibers with water.

[0035] Preferably, step (i) is followed by a rinsing step.

[0036] Then, the method according to the invention includes step (ii) of applying cosmetic composition B1 to the keratin fibers, the cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof.

[0037] Preferred embodiments of the composition B1 are described in more detail below.

[0038] After step (ii), there may or may not be a residence time for the composition B1, for example, a residence time of 1 to 15 minutes, especially 2 to 10 minutes.

[0039] According to one variant, after an optional dwell time and before step (iii), step (ii) may be followed by, for example, a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water.

[0040] According to another variant, after an optional dwell time and before step (iii), step (ii) may be followed by, for example, washing the keratin fibers with shampoo, followed by, for example, rinsing with water.

[0041] Preferred embodiments of the shampoo composition are described in more detail below.

[0042] Preferably, step (ii) is followed by a washing step, and then a rinsing step.

[0043] Optionally, at this stage, a step of dyeing keratin fibers with a dye composition comprising one or more direct dyes may be incorporated into the method according to the invention.

[0044] The dyeing step is carried out in a conventional manner by applying a dye composition containing one or more direct dyes, followed preferably by a dwell time, for example between 1 and 60 minutes, especially between 15 and 45 minutes, and then advantageously by a rinsing step, for example, with water.

[0045] Preferred embodiments of the dye composition are described in more detail below.

[0046] Optionally, but advantageously, the dyeing step may be followed by, for example, washing the keratin fibers with shampoo, followed by, for example, rinsing with water.

[0047] Preferably, the dyeing step is followed by a rinsing step, and then a washing step, which itself is followed by a rinsing step.

[0048] Then, the method according to the invention includes step (iii) of applying cosmetic composition B2 to the keratin fibers, the cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof.

[0049] Preferred embodiments of the composition B2 are described in more detail below.

[0050] After step (iii), there may or may not be a residence time for the composition B2, for example, 1 to 30 minutes, especially 2 to 20 minutes, and even better, 3 to 15 minutes.

[0051] According to one variant, after an optional dwell time, step (iii) may be followed by, for example, a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water.

[0052] According to another variant, after an optional dwell time, step (iii) may be followed by the application of a hair conditioning composition containing one or more conditioning agents, followed by, for example, a rinsing step with water.

[0053] Preferred embodiments of the conditioning composition are described in more detail below.

[0054] Preferably, step (iii) is followed by a conditioning step, and then a rinsing step.

[0055] The method according to the invention may ultimately include the step of drying keratin fibers, for example, naturally or using a hair dryer.

[0056] Preferably, steps (ii) and (iii) are spaced apart by a maximum of 2 hours, especially a maximum of 90 minutes, or even a maximum of 60 minutes, more preferably a maximum of 30 minutes, and more preferably a maximum of 15 minutes.

[0057] This means that the time between the start of step (ii) and the start of step (iii) is preferably less than or equal to 2 hours, even more preferably less than or equal to 90 minutes, even more preferably less than or equal to 60 minutes, even more preferably not more than 30 minutes, and even more preferably not more than 15 minutes.

[0058] In the following text, unless otherwise specified, the limits of the range of values ​​are included within that range, especially in expressions such as “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

[0059] Furthermore, the expression "at least one / type" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one / type or more / types" and can be replaced by it.

[0060] A / The bleaching composition applied in step (i)

[0061] The method according to the invention includes a bleaching step (i), which includes applying a bleaching hair composition to keratin fibers.

[0062] Hair bleaching compositions may contain one or more chemical oxidants.

[0063] The term "chemical oxidant" refers to an oxidant other than oxygen in the atmosphere.

[0064] Preferably, the chemical oxidant is selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxides, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Even better, the chemical oxidant is selected from hydrogen peroxide, peroxide salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Even better, the chemical oxidant is selected from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or ammonium, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] The preferred chemical oxidant is hydrogen peroxide.

[0068] Examples of peroxides that may be mentioned include sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, or ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0069] The hair bleaching composition may preferably contain one or more peroxides, more preferably one or more persulfates, and even more preferably one or more persulfates selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Even more preferably, the bleaching composition may contain one or more peroxides, preferably one or more persulfates, and even more preferably one or more persulfates selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof, and hydrogen peroxide.

[0071] The bleaching composition may contain a chemical oxidant in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the bleaching composition.

[0072] The bleaching composition may optionally contain one or more alkaline agents. Preferably, the bleaching composition contains one or more organic or inorganic alkaline agents.

[0073] The inorganic alkali agent is preferably selected from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates (such as sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate), sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates (such as sodium silicate or potassium silicate or sodium metasilicate or potassium metasilicate), or mixtures thereof.

[0074] Organic base agents are preferably selected from those having a pK value of less than 12, preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6 at 25°C. b Organic amines. It should be noted that this corresponds to the pK value of the functional group with the highest basicity. b Furthermore, organic amines do not contain any alkyl or alkenyl aliphatic chains containing more than ten carbon atoms.

[0075] The organic base agent is selected from, for example, alkanolamines, oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated ethylenediamines, amino acids, and compounds of formula (III):

[0076]

[0077] in:

[0078] - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, which may optionally be substituted with a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, and / or may optionally be substituted with one or more heteroatoms (such as oxygen) or NR. u insert;

[0079] - R x R y R z R t and R uThey can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group selected from (C1-C6)alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl.

[0080] Examples of amines of formula (III) that may be mentioned include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

[0081] The term "alkanolamine" refers to an organic amine that contains a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group and one or more straight-chain or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups with one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0082] Organic amines selected from those containing one to three identical or different C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, such as monoalkylamines, dialkylamines, or trialkylamines, are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0083] Among compounds of this type, monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane may be mentioned.

[0084] More specifically, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic forms, and contain at least one acid functional group selected more specifically from the following: carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, phosphonic acids, and phosphate functional groups. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.

[0085] Among the amino acids that can be used in bleaching compositions, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine are particularly noteworthy.

[0086] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids, which contain additional amine functional groups (optionally included in cyclic or urea functional groups).

[0087] These basic amino acids are preferably selected from those corresponding to formula (IV) and their salts: R-CH2-CH(NH2)-C(O)-OH

[0088] Wherein R represents a group selected from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH2)2N(H)-C(O)-NH2; and -(CH2)2-N(H)-C(NH)-NH2.

[0089] Among the compounds of formula (IV), histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline may be mentioned.

[0090] Organic amines can also be selected from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine, which has already been mentioned in the section on amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetraazole, and benzimidazole are particularly noteworthy.

[0091] Organic amines can also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. Among the amino acid dipeptides that can be used in this invention, carnosine, anserine, and balenine are particularly noteworthy.

[0092] Organic amines can also be selected from compounds containing guanidine functional groups. In addition to arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatine anhydride, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, guanidinoacetic acid, metformin, guanidinobutylamine, n-amidinylalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid can also be selected.

[0093] Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include salts of amines and acids (such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid) mentioned earlier.

[0094] Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used specifically.

[0095] Preferably, the alkali agent is selected from ammonia, alkanolamine, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the alkali agent present in the bleaching composition is selected from alkali metal silicates and alkali metal metasilicates, particularly from sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] The total content of the alkali agent included in the bleaching composition can range from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the bleaching composition, and preferably from 1% to 25% by weight.

[0097] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching composition may be derived from a mixture of the following:

[0098] a) A first composition comprising one or more peroxides and one or more alkalis, preferably selected from silicates.

[0099] b) A second composition comprising one or more chemical oxidants different from peroxides.

[0100] Preferably, the peroxide salt is selected from persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; alkali metal, alkaline earth metal percarbonates or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Preferably, the first composition comprises at least one persulfate.

[0102] For the purposes of this invention, persulfate (also known as peroxysulfate) corresponds to SO5. 2- Anion (peroxymonosulfate anion) or S2O8 2- Anions (peroxydisulfate anions) or compounds containing at least one of these anions. Preferably, the persulfate according to the invention is selected from peroxydisulfate.

[0103] Preferably, the first composition comprises at least one peroxide salt selected from the following: persulfate; preferably selected from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof; even more preferably selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Preferably, the total content of peroxides present in the first composition ranges from 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 65% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight.

[0105] The term "silicate" refers to a salt of silicic acid.

[0106] Silicates are preferably water-soluble. The term "water-soluble silicate" means a silicate having a solubility in water of more than 0.5% by weight, preferably more than 1% by weight, at normal room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0107] Preferably, the silicate is selected from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminum silicate, trimethylammonium silicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] Preferably, the silicate is selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, trimethylammonium silicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] The silicate may be selected from metasilicates, preferably from sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, calcium metasilicate, aluminum metasilicate, trimethylammonium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the silicate is selected from sodium silicate. More preferably, the silicate is selected from compounds having the name sodium silicate and / or sodium metasilicate.

[0110] The silicate is preferably present in the first composition in a total content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight.

[0111] The first composition may comprise one or more surfactants, particularly selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof; preferably, the first composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0112] The term "anionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that contains only anionic groups as ions or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the following groups: -CO2H, -CO2... - -SO3H, -SO3 - -OSO3H, -OSO3 - -H2PO3, -HPO3 - -PO3 2- -H2PO2, -HPO2 - -PO2 2- -POH and -PO - .

[0113] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the first composition A include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglycerides of sulfate, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates, and N-(C1-C4)alkyl-N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acid, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amide ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalted forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups (unless otherwise mentioned) of all these compounds generally contain 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally indicates a phenyl group.

[0114] In anionic surfactants, in addition to the previously described (poly)carboxylic acids, salts of fatty acids, especially C8-C24 and preferably C12-C20 fatty acids, may also be mentioned.

[0115] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably contain 1 to 50 oxyethylene units.

[0116] C6-C of polyglycosides-polycarboxylic acids 24 Salts of alkyl monoesters can be selected from C6-C. 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycosides-tartrates and C6-C 24Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate.

[0117] When anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, they can be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts, with sodium salts being preferred), ammonium salts, amine salts, and especially amino alkoxides or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.

[0118] Examples of amino alkoxides that may be mentioned in particular include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0119] Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and sodium or magnesium salts are particularly preferred.

[0120] The anionic surfactants that can exist can be mild anionic surfactants, that is, anionic surfactants without sulfate functional groups.

[0121] Regarding mild anionic surfactants, the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof, may be specifically mentioned: polyoxyalkylene-modified alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylene-modified alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylene-modified alkylamide ether carboxylic acids (especially those containing 2 to 50 ethylidene groups), alkyl D-galactoside uronic acid, acylsarcosine salts, acylglutamate salts, and alkyl polyglycoside carboxyl esters.

[0122] Most notably, polyoxyalkylene-modified alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 OE), can be used, for example, as sold by Kao Corporation under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA.

[0123] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulfated surfactants are preferred, such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, as well as acyl glutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, and more preferably alkyl sulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0124] When the first composition contains one or more surfactants, the total surfactant content is preferably in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight.

[0125] When the first composition contains one or more anionic surfactants, the total anionic surfactant content is preferably in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight.

[0126] The first composition may also contain one or more fatty substances.

[0127] For the purposes of this invention, the term "fatty substance" means, under normal room temperature (20°C-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1.013 × 10⁻⁶), fatty substances. 5 Organic compounds that are insoluble in water (with a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%) at pressures below a certain level (Pa). The aliphatic substances typically have a hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least six carbon atoms in their structure. Furthermore, these aliphatic substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentane.

[0128] Furthermore, the fatty substances are non-(poly)oxyolefinized and non-(poly)glycerolized. In other words, the fatty substances do not contain (poly)oxyethylene, (poly)glycerol, or (poly)propylene glycol units in their structure.

[0129] Fatty substances can be selected from solid fatty substances and / or liquid fatty substances (also known as "oils"), and mixtures thereof.

[0130] The term "oil" refers to a liquid "fatty substance," meaning that it exists at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 A "fatty substance" that can flow under its own weight at a temperature of 25°C and a flow rate of 1 s. -1 At a shear rate of , the viscosity of the oil is 10. -3 Pa.s to 2 Pa.s. It can be measured using a ThermoHaake RS600 rheometer with a conical-plate geometry or an equivalent machine.

[0131] For the purposes of this invention, the term "solid fatty substance" means a substance that, at room temperature (20°C-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1.013 × 10⁻⁶), is suitable for use in solid fatty substances. 5 Fatty substances that are not liquid at Pa, especially solid compounds, or those that, under the conditions mentioned above, are present in 1 s. -1 Compounds that have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa·s at a certain shear rate.

[0132] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from liquid fatty substances.

[0133] Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance is selected either alone or as a mixture:

[0134] - Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, linolenic acid alcohol, hypolinolenic acid alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecyl alcohol.

[0135] - C6-C 16 hydrocarbon;

[0136] - Hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms;

[0137] - Silicone.

[0138] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0139] Preferably, the first composition B1 comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably selected from liquid fatty substances, and more preferably selected from hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0140] Advantageously, the total content of fatty substances (when they are present) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition B1.

[0141] Advantageously, the total content of liquid fatty substances (when they are present) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0142] The first composition may optionally contain one or more alkaline agents other than the silicates previously described. In particular, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium carbonates or bicarbonates may be mentioned.

[0143] Preferably, the first composition is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition that contains very little or no water relative to the total weight of the first composition, particularly less than 0.5% water, more preferably less than 0.1% water, and even more preferably less than 0.05% or even less than 0.01% water. In particular, the first composition does not contain any water added during its preparation; any water that may be present may be provided by the starting materials used during its preparation.

[0144] Preferably, the first composition is a powder composition.

[0145] According to the present invention, the second composition of the bleaching composition contains one or more chemical oxidants other than peroxides.

[0146] Preferably, the second composition comprises one or more chemical oxidants selected from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxide salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0147] Hydrogen peroxide generation systems other than peroxide salts can be selected from urea peroxide, polymer complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, oxidases, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] Examples of polymeric complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide include, in particular, polyvinylpyrrolidone / H2O2 in powder form and other polymeric complexes described in US 5 008 093, US 3 376 110 and US 5 183 901.

[0149] Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of suitable substrates, such as glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid in the case of uricase.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the second composition contains hydrogen peroxide as a chemical oxidant.

[0151] The chemical oxidizing agent, other than the peroxide, is preferably present in the second composition in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0152] The second composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it may contain at least 10% water by weight, preferably at least 30% water by weight, and even more advantageously at least 50% water by weight. Preferably, the second composition contains water in an amount ranging from 10% to 95% by weight, preferably 30% to 90% by weight, and even more preferably 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0153] The second composition preferably comprises one or more fatty substances as previously defined, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Preferably, the second composition may further comprise a surfactant, preferably selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, as previously defined.

[0155] The second composition may also contain one or more acidifying agents, including inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acid.

[0156] When the second composition is aqueous, its pH is preferably less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, and preferably between 1.5 and 4.5. This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by using one or more acidifiers, which can be particularly selected from those previously described.

[0157] The second composition may optionally include one or more additives, wherein references may be made to anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickeners, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regeneration, vitamins and provitamins (including panthenol), sunscreens, inorganic or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrances and preservatives.

[0158] Therefore, the method according to the invention may include, prior to step (i) of applying hair bleaching composition A, mixing the first composition as previously described with the second composition as previously described to obtain composition A.

[0159] The mixing step is preferably performed during use, just before the application of the bleaching composition A that can be produced by the mixing.

[0160] Preferably, the first composition and the second composition are mixed at a compound 1 / compound 2 weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.3 to 1.5, and even more preferably 0.5 to 1.

[0161] B / The composition B1 applied in step (ii)

[0162] Therefore, the method according to the invention includes step (ii) of applying a cosmetic composition B1 to keratin fibers, the cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof.

[0163] amino acid compounds

[0164] For the purposes of this invention, the term "amino acid type compound" means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functional groups and one or more amine functional groups, wherein the amine functional groups may be intracyclic and optionally in salt form, and said amine functional groups are primary or secondary amine functional groups.

[0165] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound is selected from amino acid-type compounds and / or their salts that contain only one or more carboxylic acid functional groups (and therefore do not contain any sulfonic acid functional groups). The compound is also referred to as an aminocarboxylic acid-type compound and is particularly preferred.

[0166] Preferably, the composition B1 according to the invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts.

[0167] Therefore, amino acid-type compounds can correspond to formula (I):

[0168]

[0169] Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that:

[0170] - When p = 1, R forms a saturated heterocycle with nitrogen atoms containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which may be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl groups;

[0171] - When p = 2, R represents hydrogen atoms or saturated, straight-chain or branched (C1-C) atoms. 12 Alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, optionally inserted with one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or C5-C7 aryl, especially phenyl (which itself is optionally substituted with one or more OH groups).

[0172] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms a saturated heterocycle with nitrogen atoms containing 5 ring members, which is unsubstituted.

[0173] Preferably, p = 2.

[0174] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight-chain or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which may optionally be inserted with a -S-heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0175] Preferably, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0176] Amino acid compounds can also be salts of compounds of formula (I).

[0177] These salts include those formed with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, like lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, like magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.

[0178] Amino acid compounds can be optical isomers in the form of L, D or DL ​​configurations, preferably L configuration.

[0179] Examples of compounds in the L-configuration optical isomer form according to the present invention include L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, and L-lysine.

[0180] Preferably, the amino acid compounds according to the present invention are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Preferably, the amino acid compounds according to the present invention are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] Even better, the amino acid-type compound is selected from glycine, its salts (especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof.

[0183] As glycinate salts according to the present invention, sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate, and potassium glycinate may be mentioned, with sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate being preferred.

[0184] Preferably, the amino acid compound is glycine.

[0185] The total content of the amino acid-type compounds present in composition B1 according to the invention is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the range may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0186] In particular, the total content of the aminocarboxylic acid type compound in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0187] Even more preferably, the total content of amino acid compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0188] Most particularly, the total content of amino acid-type compounds selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0189] Even better, the glycine content in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, even better from 2% to 8% by weight, and even better from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0190] Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0191] The composition B1 used according to the invention further comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. These (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the previously described amino acid-type compounds.

[0192] The (poly)acids contain at least one COOH group (in acidic or salinated form). They may contain several, especially at least two COOH groups (in acidic or salinated form), and more preferably two or three COOH groups (in acidic or salinated form), in which case they are called polyacids. They may contain only one COOH group, in which case they are called monocarboxylic acids.

[0193] The term "(poly)acid" refers to both monobasic and polybasic acids.

[0194] They also contain at least one OH group, but may contain several, especially two or three OH groups.

[0195] Preferably, they contain a total of four to six carbon atoms, and their hydrocarbon-based chains are saturated and straight.

[0196] Advantageously, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups (in acid or salted form).

[0197] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts formed with organic or inorganic bases, such as alkali metal salts, like lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, like magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and sodium salts are particularly preferred.

[0198] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid or its salt is selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and particularly from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even more preferably citric acid or its salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate.

[0199] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms in composition B1 according to the invention is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the range may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight.

[0200] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts comprising a total of four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two or three COOH groups in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] Most notably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, in composition B1 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in composition B1 according to the invention ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight.

[0203] polysaccharides

[0204] Composition B1 may advantageously contain one or more polysaccharides, particularly selected from nonionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] Nonionic polysaccharides are preferably selected—alone or in mixtures—from cellulose, starch, galactomannan and their nonionic derivatives, especially their ethers or esters.

[0206] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatments, temperature can be mentioned, and as chemical treatments, esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions can be mentioned, as long as these treatments result in nonionic polymers.

[0207] As a usable galactomannan, nonionic guar gum modified with (poly)hydroxy (C1-C6) alkyl groups, especially hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl, can be mentioned.

[0208] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting a corresponding epoxide, such as propylene oxide, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0209] The degree of hydroxyalkylation is preferably in the range of 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of epoxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0210] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are marketed by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI.

[0211] The plant source of the starch molecules that can be used in this invention can be cereals or tubers. Therefore, the starch is selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, and pea starch. The starch can be chemically or physically modified, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.

[0212] Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, especially corn, potato, oats, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. Potato-derived starch is preferred.

[0213] Nonionic polysaccharides can also be those whose structure does not contain C. 10 -C 30 Cellulose-based polymers with fatty chains.

[0214] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based" polymer refers to any polysaccharide compound having a sequence of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds in its structure; the cellulose-based polymer may be unsubstituted cellulose and / or a derivative of nonionic cellulose.

[0215] Therefore, the cellulose-based polymers that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from unsubstituted cellulose (including those in microcrystalline form) and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ether-esters are distinguished.

[0216] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that can be mentioned are (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon), and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AkzoNobel), and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0217] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharide is selected from—alone or in mixtures—cellulose, galactomannan and their nonionic derivatives, especially their ethers; and more preferably from—alone or in mixtures—nonionic guar gum optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy (C1-C6)alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl; and / or may be substituted or unsubstituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers such as (C1-C4)alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl cellulose.

[0218] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharide is selected from—alone or as a mixture—optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy (C1-C6) alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl nonionic guar gum (INCI name: hydroxypropyl guar gum).

[0219] Preferably, composition B1 comprises one or more nonionic polysaccharides.

[0220] When present, composition B1 according to the invention may contain a total amount of nonionic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] When present, the composition according to the invention may contain, by weight, 0.01% to 10%, more preferably 0.05% to 5%, and even more preferably 0.1% to 2% of a nonionic polysaccharide selected from cellulose, galactomannan and their nonionic derivatives (especially their ethers) and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] When present, the composition according to the invention may contain a total amount of nonionic polysaccharides selected from galactomannan and its nonionic derivatives and mixtures thereof, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] Cationic polysaccharides can be selected in particular from cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum and mixtures thereof.

[0224] More specifically, cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gums may be mentioned.

[0225] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium groups of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have been reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

[0226] In particular, the polymers sold by Amerchol under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) may be mentioned.

[0227] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are particularly described in patent US 4,131,576; hydroxyalkyl celluloses may be mentioned, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted particularly with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. Most particularly, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose may be mentioned, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyl dimethylammonium chloride; and most especially, hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0228] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, one can mention the products sold by National Starch under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100.

[0229] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that can be mentioned in particular is a polymer having the INCI name of polyquaternium salt-10.

[0230] Cationic galactomannan gum is particularly described in patents US 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307; reference may be made to cationic guar gum, especially those containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Thus, reference may be made to guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salts (e.g., chlorides).

[0231] Preferably, 2% to 30% of the hydroxyl functional groups of the guar gum by weight have cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5% to 20% of the hydroxyl functional groups of the guar gum by weight are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups account for 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0232] Products bearing the INCI names hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride are worth mentioning. These products are particularly marketed by Solvay under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17, and Jaguar C162.

[0233] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used, cationic derivatives of cinnamon gum, especially those containing quaternary ammonium groups, may also be mentioned; in particular, products with the INCI name of cinnamon hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be mentioned.

[0234] Preferably, composition B1 comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides.

[0235] When present, composition B1 according to the invention may contain a total amount of cationic polysaccharides ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] When present, the composition according to the invention may contain a total amount of cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan and mixtures thereof, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] When present, the composition according to the invention may contain a total amount of cationic polysaccharides selected from cationic galactomannans, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] Preferably, composition B1 comprises one or more nonionic polysaccharides and one or more cationic polysaccharides.

[0239] In a preferred embodiment, composition B1 comprises a total amount of polysaccharides of at least (greater than or equal to) 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly ranging from 0.6% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.7% to 3% by weight.

[0240] More preferably, composition B1 comprises at least 0.6% by weight, particularly ranging from 0.6% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.7% to 3% by weight, of one or more polysaccharides selected from nonionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] Silicone polymers

[0242] Composition B1 according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, particularly those of formula (A1) or (A2):

[0243]

[0244]

[0245] in:

[0246] - n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20, even better between 1 and 10, even better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3;

[0247] - R1 is a polypeptide chain derived from amino acids such as cysteine.

[0248] Preferably, the silicone polymer derived from amino acids corresponds to formula (A1) in which R1 is a hydrolyzed plant protein residue.

[0249] In particular, compounds with the following INCI names may be mentioned: hydrolyzed wheat protein PG-propylsilanetriol, hydrolyzed vegetable protein PG-propylsilanetriol, or cystine bis-PG-propylsilanetriol, marketed by Croda under the names Crodasone® W, Crodasone® W PF, Keravis® PE, or Crodasone® Cystine.

[0250] Preferably, the amino acid-derived silicone polymer may be present in composition B1 according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, particularly from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] Even better, the amino acid-derived silicone polymer of formula (A1) (where R1 is a hydrolyzed plant protein residue) may be present in composition B1 according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and especially from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] polyols

[0253] The composition B1 according to the invention may advantageously contain one or more polyols.

[0254] The term "polyol" refers to a hydrocarbon-based chain containing two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). Polyols can have straight-chain or branched aliphatic, cyclic, or even aromatic molecular structures, and can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0255] Preferably, the polyols are straight-chain and saturated; they may contain 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups, especially 2 to 4, more preferably 2 to 3, and most preferably 2 hydroxyl (-OH) groups.

[0256] They can contain 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and especially 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0257] They do not contain any olefin oxides or glycerol-based groups.

[0258] They are advantageously liquids at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

[0259] Preferably, the polyol according to the invention comprises 2 or 3 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and is straight-chain and saturated.

[0260] Preferably, they may be selected from propylene glycol (propylene-1,2-diol), propylene-1,3-diol, butanediol (butane-1,3-diol), butane-2,3-diol, hexanediol, pentanediol (pentane-1,2-diol), glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Very preferably, the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] The composition B1 according to the invention preferably comprises the polyol in a total amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, or even from 12% to 28% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight.

[0262] The composition B1 according to the invention preferably comprises, by weight, 5% to 35%, more preferably 10% to 30%, or even 12% to 28% and more preferably 15% to 25% of a total amount selected from polyols containing two or three -OH groups and two to six straight-chain saturated carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] cationic surfactants

[0264] The composition B1 used according to the present invention may optionally contain one or more cationic surfactants.

[0265] The cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, meaning they do not contain any Si-O groups.

[0266] They are preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines or their salts that are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0267] The composition may contain one or more cationic surfactants selected—alone or in mixtures—of the following quaternary ammonium salts:

[0268] - Compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):

[0269]

[0270] in:

[0271] X - It is an anion particularly selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonate;

[0272] Groups R1 to R4 may be the same or different, representing a straight-chain or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, and at least one of groups R1 to R4 indicates a straight-chain or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0273] Aliphatic groups can contain heteroatoms, especially oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are, for example, selected from C1-C64. 30 Alkyl, C1-C 30 Alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamide group (C2-C6)alkyl, (C 12 -C 22 )alkyl acetates and C1-C 30 Hydroxyalkyl.

[0274] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), the preferred ones are tetraalkylammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly benzyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearylamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearylamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts, such as those sold by Van Dyk under the name Ceraphyl® 70.

[0275] Chlorides, bromides, or methyl sulfates of these compounds are particularly preferred;

[0276] - Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (III):

[0277]

[0278] Where R5 represents, for example, an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms derived from tallow fatty acids; R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group; R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; X - It is an anion selected from the group consisting of halide ions, phosphate ions, acetate ions, lactate ions, alkyl sulfate ions, alkyl sulfonate ions or alkyl aryl sulfonate ions, wherein the alkyl and aryl groups preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively.

[0279] Preferably, R5 and R6 indicate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as those derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 indicates methyl and R8 indicates hydrogen atoms.

[0280] This product is sold, for example, by Rewo under the name Rewoquat® W 75;

[0281] - Quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, especially those of formula (IV):

[0282]

[0283] in:

[0284] R9 indicates an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally intercalated with one or more oxygen atoms.

[0285] R 10 Selected from hydrogen or alkyl groups or groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms (R 9a (R) 10a (R) 11a )N-(CH2)3, where R 9a R 10a R 11a R 11 R 12 R 13 and R 14 They may be the same or different, selected from hydrogen or alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0286] X - It is anion selected from the group consisting of: halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate and (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, especially methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0287] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (quaternary ammonium salt 89) and Finquat CT (quaternary ammonium salt 75) sold by Fenda Corporation.

[0288] - Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, such as those of the following formula (V):

[0289]

[0290] in:

[0291] R 15 Selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0292] R16 Selected from group R19-C(O)-; group R 20 It is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C 22 Hydrocarbon-based groups; hydrogen atoms;

[0293] R 18 Selected from group R21-C(O)-; group R 22 It is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group; hydrogen atom;

[0294] R 17 R 19 and R 21 They can be the same or different, selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C. 21 Based on hydrocarbon groups;

[0295] r, s, and t can be the same or different, and are integers with values ​​from 2 to 6;

[0296] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0297] x and z can be the same or different, and are integers with values ​​from 0 to 10;

[0298] X - It can be a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

[0299] The premise is that the sum of x + y + z is between 1 and 15; when x is 0, then R 16 Instruction R 20 And when z is 0, then R 18 Instruction R 22 .

[0300] Alkyl R 15 It can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 15 Indicates methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.

[0301] Advantageously, the sum of x + y + z is between 1 and 10.

[0302] When R 16 It is based on the hydrocarbon group R. 20 It may be longer and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be shorter and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0303] When R 18 It is based on the hydrocarbon group R. 22 When used, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0304] Advantageously, R17 R 19 and R 21 They can be the same or different, selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C. 11 -C 21 Based on hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C groups. 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0305] Preferably, x and z can be the same or different, equal to 0 or 1.

[0306] Advantageously, y equals 1.

[0307] Preferably, r, s, and t can be the same or different, equal to 2 or 3, and even more specifically equal to 2.

[0308] Anion X - Preferably, the anion is a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly a methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anions derived from organic acids (such as acetate or lactate), or any other anion compatible with ammonium containing an ester functional group can be used. Anion X - Even more specifically, chloride ions or methyl sulfate ions.

[0309] In the compositions according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (V) can be used more particularly, wherein R 15 Indicates methyl or ethyl, x and y equal to 1; z equals 0 or 1; r, s and t equal to 2;

[0310] R 16 Selected from groups R19-C(=O)-, methyl, ethyl, or C 14 -C 22 Based on hydrocarbon groups and hydrogen atoms;

[0311] R 18 Selected from the group R21-C(O)- and hydrogen atoms;

[0312] R 17 R 19 and R 21 They can be the same or different, selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C. 13 -C 17 Based on hydrocarbon groups, and preferably selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C groups. 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0313] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are straight-chain.

[0314] Compounds of formula (V) may be mentioned, such as diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, and monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

[0315] These products, for example, are produced by reacting triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyl diethanolamine, or alkyl diisopropanolamine (which may optionally be oxyalkylene-modified) with C from plant or animal sources. 10 -C 30 Fatty acids or C 10 -C 30 The mixture of fatty acids is obtained by direct esterification or by transesterification of its methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using alkylating agents such as alkyl halides (preferably methyl halides or ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (preferably methyl sulfates or ethyl sulfates), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, ethylene chloride glycol, or chloroglycerol.

[0316] Such compounds are, for example, marketed by Henkel under the name Dehyquart®, by Stepan under the name Stepanquat®, by CECA under the name Noxamium®, or by Rewo-Witco under the name Rewoquat® WE 18.

[0317] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters and triesters, wherein the majority by weight is a diester.

[0318] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, as described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180, can also be used.

[0319] Sorbitoyl hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride, sold by Kao Corporation (KAO) under the name Quatarmin BTC 131, can be used.

[0320] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0321] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group that can be used, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt is preferred.

[0322] The term "fatty amine" means that it contains at least one (poly)oxyalkylated primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, or a salt thereof, and contains at least one C6-C. 30 And C8-C is preferred. 30 Compounds based on hydrocarbon chains.

[0323] Preferably, the aliphatic amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylene-modified.

[0324] Aliphatic amines that may be mentioned include amide amines. The amide amine according to the present invention may be selected from aliphatic amide amines, and the aliphatic chain may be carried by an amine group or by an amide group.

[0325] The term "amide amine" refers to a compound that contains at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group.

[0326] The term "fatty amide amine" means that it typically contains at least one C6-C based amino acid. 30 Amide groups of hydrocarbon chains. Preferably, the aliphatic amide groups available according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0327] Preferably, the fatty amide amines available according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylene-modified.

[0328] Among the fatty amide amines available according to the present invention, amide amines of formula (VI) may be mentioned:

[0329] RCONHR''N(R')2(VI)

[0330] in:

[0331] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and particularly straight or branched C5-C. 29 And C7-C is preferred. 23 Alkyl groups, or straight-chain or branched C5-C groups 29 And C7-C is preferred. 23 alkenyl;

[0332] - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 3 carbon atoms; and

[0333] - R' can be the same or different, representing a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, preferably methyl.

[0334] The fatty amide amine of formula (VI) is selected from, for example, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (especially by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine). Products sold under S13), including isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, betainamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, castor oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, soybean oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocado oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine, mink oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, oat oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesame oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, olive oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, rapeseed oilamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] Preferably, the fatty amide amine is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0336] The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from those of formula (II), formula (V), formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from those of formula (II), formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably selected from those of formula (II).

[0337] Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be selected from tetraalkylammonium salts such as chlorides, bromides, or methyl sulfates, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, wherein the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly benzyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylmethylammonium sulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0338] Even more preferably, they are selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylmethylammonium sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0339] Preferably, composition B1 contains one or more cationic surfactants.

[0340] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in composition B1 is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably 0.4% to 5% by weight.

[0341] Nonionic surfactants

[0342] Composition B1 may advantageously contain one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0343] The nonionic surfactant can be selected from:

[0344] - Alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C 20 Alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerollated, the number of ethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or additionally these compounds comprising at least one aliphatic chain, said at least one aliphatic chain comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and especially 16 to 30 carbon atoms; particularly, oxyethylenelated saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C9 group. 40 The alkyl chain contains 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 mol and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and contains one or two aliphatic chains;

[0345] - Condensations of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;

[0346] - Preferably, polyethoxylated fatty amides containing 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, or polyglycerolized fatty amides containing an average of 1 to 5, and particularly 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups;

[0347] - Preferably, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitol containing 2 to 40 ethoxylated units (or oxy-ethoxylated sorbitol esters).

[0348] - Fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0349] - Polyoxyalkylene-containing, preferably polyoxyethylene-containing fatty acid esters, including oxyethylene-containing vegetable oils;

[0350] - N-(C6-C 24 Alkyl)glucosamine derivatives;

[0351] - Amine oxides, such as (C 10 -C 14 Alkyl) amine oxide or N-(C) 10 -C 14 Acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxide;

[0352] - Alkyl (poly)glycoside type nonionic surfactants.

[0353] Alkyl (poly)glycoside type nonionic surfactants can be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0354] in:

[0355] - R1 represents a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl group containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0356] - R2 indicates an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0357] - G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0358] - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 10, and preferably from 0 to 4;

[0359] - v indicates a range of 1 to 15, with a preferred value of 1 to 4.

[0360] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant has the formula described above, wherein:

[0361] - R1 indicates a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0362] - R2 indicates an alkylene group containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0363] - t indicates a value ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0.

[0364] - G indicates glucose, fructose, or galactose, preferably glucose.

[0365] - The degree of polymerization (i.e., v value) may range from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly from 1 to 2.

[0366] The glucosidic bonds between sugar units are typically of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly)glucosidase surfactant. Most particularly preferred are 1,4 C8 / C... 16 -alkyl (poly)glucosides, and notably decyl glucosides and octanoyl / decanoyl glucosides.

[0367] Oxyethylidene sorbitol esters that can be used in the context of this invention particularly comprise C8-C sorbitol containing 2 to 40 ethylidene units. 30 Oxyethylated derivatives of fatty acid monoesters and polyesters. Preferably, C-type derivatives containing 4 to 20 ethyleneoxy units are used. 12 -C24 Oxyethylated derivatives of fatty acid monoesters and dehydrated sorbitol polyesters.

[0368] These compounds are also known by the name polysorbate. They are especially marketed by Uniqema under the name Tween.

[0369] In particular, one can mention sorbitol monolaurate ester with 4 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween 21; sorbitol monolaurate ester with 20 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween 20; sorbitol monopalmitate ester with 20 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween 40; sorbitol monostearate ester with 20 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween 60; sorbitol monostearate ester with 4 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween 61; sorbitol tristearate ester with 20 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween 65; sorbitol monooleate ester with 20 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween 80; and sorbitol monooleate ester with 5 OE oxyethylation, for example, sold under the name Tween... 81 is sold as 20 OE-oxyethylated sorbitan trioleate, for example, under the name Tween 85.

[0370] Preferably, the fatty acids of the oxyethylated dehydrated sorbitol ester are saturated fatty acids, especially C. 12 -C 24 fatty acid.

[0371] Preferred sorbitol esters are C4-hydroxyl groups of sorbitol containing 4 to 20 ethylidene units. 12 -C 24 Oxyethylated derivatives of fatty acid monoesters, more preferably sorbitol monolaurate esters oxyethylated with 4 OE, sorbitol monolaurate esters oxyethylated with 20 OE, sorbitol monolaurate esters oxyethylated with 20 OE, and mixtures thereof.

[0372] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected—alone or as a mixture—(C6-C 24 Alkyl) (poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C 18 Alkyl (poly)glycosides; and oxyethylated dehydrated sorbitol esters, especially those derived from saturated C 12 -C 24 Fatty acids and those containing 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.

[0373] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be present in composition B1 in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight.

[0374] silicone

[0375] In addition to the previously described silicone polymers derived from amino acids, composition B1 according to the invention may optionally contain one or more silicones, and may be particularly selected from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0376] Therefore, the compositions according to the invention may contain one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), and may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amino silicone is selected from non-volatile liquid silicones.

[0377] The non-amino silicones that can be used in composition A according to the invention can be soluble or insoluble; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or glue; silicone oil and glue are preferred.

[0378] Silicones are described in particular detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

[0379] Volatile silicones can be selected from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), and are particularly selected from:

[0380] i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as

[0381] - Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Reference may be made to products sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone 7207, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione 70045 V2, or by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone 7158, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione 70045 V5.

[0382] - Cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with the following chemical structures:

[0383]

[0384] Volatile Silicone FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide Corporation, may be mentioned;

[0385] - Mixtures of cyclic silicones and silicon-based organic compounds, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0386] ii) Straight-chain polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which typically have a concentration of less than or equal to 5 × 10⁻⁶ at 25°C. -6 m 2 Viscosity of / s, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0387] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in Todd & Byers’ article “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”, published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32; products sold by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200 may also be mentioned.

[0388] Among non-volatile silicones, either alone or as a mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone sealants and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organically modified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organically modified silicones), which are polysiloxanes containing one or more non-amino organofunctional groups in their structure, typically attached by hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably selected from aryl, alkoxy, and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene.

[0389] Organically modified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes (especially polydiphenylsiloxanes) and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the previously mentioned organic functional groups. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0390] Among organically modified silicones, organopolysiloxanes can be mentioned, which include:

[0391] - Polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene, which optionally contains C6-C 24 Alkyl groups, such as polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, and especially those sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or from Union Carbide's Silwet oil. ® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711; or alternatively (C 12 Alkyl polymethylsiloxane copolyols, and especially those sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

[0392] - Thiol groups, such as those found in Genesee products marketed under the names GP 72 A and GP 71;

[0393] - Alkoxylated groups, such as those found in products marketed by SWS Silicones under the name polysiloxane copolymer F-755 and Abil Wax marketed by High Schmidt. ® 2428, 2434, and 2440;

[0394] - Hydroxylation groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl functional groups;

[0395] - Acyloxyalkyl, such as the polyorganosiloxane described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

[0396] - Anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as those described in, for example, EP 186 507, or anionic groups of the alkyl carboxylic acid type, such as product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; or other anionic groups of the 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate type, such as those produced by High Schmidt under the name Abil. ® S201 and Abil ® Products sold by S255.

[0397] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: polydimethylsiloxane) are particularly noteworthy. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned:

[0398] - Silbione® oil or Mirasil® oil of the 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia, such as oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0399] - Oils from the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia;

[0400] - Oils from Dow Corning's 200 series, such as those with a 60,000 mm... 2 The viscosity of DC200 / s;

[0401] - Viscasil® oil from General Electric, and certain oils from General Electric's SF series (SF 96, SF 18).

[0402] Also mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes (CTFA: polydimethylsiloxane alcohol) with dimethylsilanol end groups, such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0403] Among this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, one can also mention products sold by High Schmidt under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801, which are poly(C1-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.

[0404] More specifically, the products that can be used according to the present invention are mixtures, such as:

[0405] - A mixture of polydimethylsiloxane or polydimethylsiloxane alcohol (CTFA) with hydroxyl-terminated chains and cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (CTFA), such as product Q2-1401 sold by Dow Corning.

[0406] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from those having a strength in the range of 1 × 10⁻⁶ at 25°C. -5 Up to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 The viscosity of straight-chain and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxane and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxane is / s.

[0407] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, products sold under the following names may be mentioned:

[0408] - Silbione® oil from Rhodia's 70 641 series;

[0409] - Oils from Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0410] - Oil from Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;

[0411] - Silicones from Bayer's PK series, such as product PK20;

[0412] - Silicones from Bayer's PN and PH series, such as products PN1000 and PH1000;

[0413] - Certain oils from General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF1265.

[0414] A more particularly preferred non-amino silicone according to the invention is a polydimethylsiloxane (CTFA: polydimethylsiloxane) containing a trimethylsilyl end group, which is especially liquid and non-volatile.

[0415] The compositions according to the present invention may contain one or more aminosilicones.

[0416] The term "aminosilicone" refers to any silicone containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group.

[0417] The aminosilicones that can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile and can be cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a strength ranging from 5 × 10⁻⁶ at 25°C. -6 Up to 2.5 m 2 / s, for example, 1 × 10 -5 Up to 1 m 2 Viscosity of / s. Preferably, the amino silicone is selected from silicones that are non-volatile liquids (25°C, 1 atm).

[0418] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected from—alone or in mixtures—the following compounds:

[0419] A) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0420]

[0421] Where x' and y' are integers that make the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) between 5000 and 500,000 g / mol;

[0422] B) The amino silicone corresponding to formula (II):

[0423] R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a’ -R' a’ (II)

[0424] in:

[0425] - G can be the same or different, indicating a hydrogen atom or phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl such as methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy such as methoxy;

[0426] - a and a' can be the same or different, indicating 0 or integers from 1 to 3, especially 0, provided that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero.

[0427] - b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1.

[0428] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 2000, and especially 50 to 150, where n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999, and especially 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000, and especially 1 to 10; and

[0429] - R' can be the same or different, indicating -C q H 2q L is a monovalent group, where q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: -NR''-QN(R'')2, -N(R'')2, -N + (R'')3A - -N + H(R'')2 A - -N + H2(R'') A - -NR''-QN + (R'')H2 A - -NR''-QN + (R'')2H A - and -NR''-QN + (R'')3 A - R'' can be the same or different, indicating a hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C1-C. 20 Alkyl; Q indicator C r H 2r The straight-chain or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A - This indicates the anions that are acceptable in cosmetics, especially halide ions such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide ions.

[0430] Preferably, the aminosilicone of formula (II) can be selected from:

[0431] (i) The “trimethylsilylamino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane” silicone corresponding to formula (III):

[0432]

[0433] Where m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, especially from 50 to 600, and even better from 50 to 150; n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;

[0434] (ii) Silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0435]

[0436] in:

[0437] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 1000, especially 50 to 250 and more particularly 100 to 200; n indicates numbers from 0 to 999 and especially 49 to 249 and more particularly 125 to 175, and m indicates numbers from 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10 and more particularly 1 to 5; and

[0438] - R1, R2 and R3 can be the same or different, representing hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy groups, with at least one of R1 to R3 indicating an alkoxy group.

[0439] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0440] The preferred range for the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, and more preferably 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, and more particularly equal to 0.3:1.

[0441] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly 3,500 to 200,000 g / mol;

[0442] (iii) Silicones of the following formula (V):

[0443]

[0444] in:

[0445] - p and q are numbers such that the sum of (p + q) is in the range of 1 to 1000, especially 50 to 350, and more particularly 150 to 250; p indicates numbers from 0 to 999, especially 49 to 349, and more particularly 159 to 239, and q indicates numbers from 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10, and more particularly 1 to 5; and

[0446] - R1 and R2 are different, representing hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy groups, with at least one of R1 or R2 indicating an alkoxy group.

[0447] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0448] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio typically ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and is preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and more particularly equal to 1:0.95.

[0449] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 200,000 g / mol, more preferably 5,000 to 100,000 g / mol, and particularly 10,000 to 50,000 g / mol.

[0450] Commercial products containing silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may contain one or more other amino silicones with structures different from (IV) or (V) in their composition. Products containing amino silicones of structure (IV) are marketed by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. Products containing amino silicones of structure (V) are marketed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is marketed by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0451] When using these amino silicones, particularly advantageous embodiments include their use in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. Oil-in-water emulsions may contain one or more surfactants. Surfactants may have any properties, but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion typically ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, especially as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive) are used. Therefore, according to the invention, amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold by Wacker Chemie under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® can be used;

[0452] (iv) Silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0453]

[0454] in:

[0455] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 2000, and especially 50 to 150, where n indicates a number from 0 to 1999, and especially 49 to 149, and m indicates a number from 1 to 2000, and especially 1 to 10; and

[0456] - A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably straight-chain.

[0457] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0458] The silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion from Dow Corning.

[0459] (v) Silicone of formula (VII):

[0460]

[0461] in:

[0462] - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 2000, and especially 50 to 150, where n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999, and especially 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000, and especially 1 to 10; and

[0463] - A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0464] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0465] The silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, the DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

[0466] C) The aminosilicone corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0467]

[0468] in:

[0469] - R5 indicates a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and particularly C1-C. 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18Alkenyl groups, such as methyl groups;

[0470] - R6 indicates a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C. 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkylene oxides are linked to Si via SiC bonds;

[0471] - Q - It is anion, such as halide ions, especially chloride ions, or organic acid salts, especially acetates;

[0472] - r represents the average statistic in the range of 2 to 20, and in particular 2 to 8;

[0473] as well as

[0474] - s represents the average statistic ranging from 20 to 200, and more specifically from 20 to 50;

[0475] D) Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

[0476]

[0477] in:

[0478] - R7 can be the same or different, representing a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 Alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl;

[0479] - R6 indicates a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C. 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkylene oxides are linked to Si via SiC bonds;

[0480] - R8 can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a monovalent group based on hydrocarbons containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 Alkenyl or group -R6-NHCOR7;

[0481] - X - These are anions, such as halide ions, especially chloride ions, or organic acid salts, especially acetates; and

[0482] - r represents the average statistic ranging from 2 to 200, and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0483] These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; silicones with the following INCI name may be specifically mentioned: Quaternary Ammonium Salt 80.

[0484] Silicones falling into this category are those sold by High Schmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

[0485] E) Aminosilicone of formula (X):

[0486]

[0487] in:

[0488] - R1, R2, R3, and R4, which may be the same or different, indicate C1-C4 alkyl or phenyl groups.

[0489] - R5 indicates C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl groups.

[0490] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5.

[0491] - m is an integer in the range of 1 to 5, and

[0492] - Choose x such that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0493] F) (AB) n A type of multi-block polyoxyalkylene amino silicone, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group.

[0494] The silicone is preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formula:

[0495] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R'')-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R'-N(H)-R-]or

[0496] [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R'')-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -]

[0497] in:

[0498] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably in the range of 5 to 200, and more particularly in the range of 10 to 100;

[0499] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0500] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, and more specifically from 10 to 5,000;

[0501] - R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0502] - R can be the same or different, indicating the binary valence of straight chains or branches based on C2-C. 12 The hydrocarbon group may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R may be the same or different, indicating an ethylene, a straight-chain or branched propylene, a straight-chain or branched butylene, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R indicates a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; and

[0503] - R' can be the same or different, indicating the divalent nature of straight chains or branches based on C2-C. 12 The hydrocarbon group may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' may be the same or different, indicating an ethylene, a straight or branched propylene, a straight or branched butylene, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0504] The siloxane block preferably accounts for between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly between 70 mol% and 85 mol%.

[0505] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of the copolymer in a 30% solution of dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0506] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 g / mol, and more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000 g / mol.

[0507] In particular, one can mention the silicones sold by Momentive under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+;

[0508] G) Aminosilicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):

[0509]

[0510] in:

[0511] - R, R', and R'' can be the same or different, indicating C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl groups.

[0512] - A indicates a C3 alkylene group; and

[0513] - m and n are numbers that make the weight-average molecular weight of the compound between 5,000 and 500,000;

[0514]

[0515] in:

[0516] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x is ranging from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, y is ranging from 1 to 100;

[0517] - R1 and R2 can be the same or different, preferably the same, indicating a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0518] - A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0519] Preferably, A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. In particular, the following divalent groups may be mentioned: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0520] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independent saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, octadecyl, nonadecanyl, and eicosyl may be mentioned in particular; and preferably, R1 and R2 may be the same or different, selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0521] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0522] - x ranges from 10 to 2000, and specifically from 100 to 1000;

[0523] - The range of y is 1 to 100;

[0524] - A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0525] - R1 and R2 are independently saturated straight-chain alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particularly selected from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, octadecyl, nonadecanyl and eicosyl; preferably, R1 and R2 can be the same or different, selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl).

[0526] The preferred silicone of formula (XII) is a bis-cetearyl amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane. Of particular interest is the amino silicone marketed by Momentive Corporation under the name Silsoft AX;

[0527] H) Polysiloxanes containing a primary amine group only at one chain end or on a side chain, and especially polydimethylsiloxanes, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0528]

[0529]

[0530]

[0531] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of aminosilicone is between 1000 and 55000.

[0532] Examples of aminosilicone of formula (XIV) may be mentioned in the products sold by Gelest under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203, and by Shin-Etsu under the name KF-8015.

[0533] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of aminosilicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0534] As examples of aminosilicone of formula (XV), the products sold by Gate Company under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 can be mentioned.

[0535] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of aminosilicone is between 500 and 50,000.

[0536] As an example of an aminosiloxane of formula (XVI), reference can be made to aminopropylphenyl polytrimethylsiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid.

[0537] The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may further comprise an aminosilicone corresponding to the following formula (XVIII) as a silicone:

[0538]

[0539] in:

[0540] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, even better between 25 and 100, and even better between 50 and 80;

[0541] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, even better between 1 and 10, and even better between 1 and 5;

[0542] - R''' can be the same or different, preferably the same, and is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said group may optionally be replaced by one or more hydroxyl (OH) groups;

[0543] - R' is a straight-chain or branched dialkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0544] - R'' is a straight-chain or branched dialkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0545] Preferably, the group R''' can be the same or different, and is a saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms; dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, and octadecyl may be mentioned in particular; preferably, the group R''' can be the same or different, and is selected from saturated straight-chain hydrocarbon groups containing 12 to 16 carbon atoms, especially C 13 C 14 Or C 15 Groups (alone or as a mixture), and also better represent C 13 C 14 Or C 15 A mixture of groups.

[0546] Preferably, the groups R''' are the same.

[0547] Preferably, R' is a straight-chain or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms; especially -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- groups.

[0548] Preferably, R'' is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 4 carbon atoms, particularly a -CH2-CH2- group.

[0549] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), wherein:

[0550] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0551] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0552] - R''' is the same, and is a saturated straight-chain alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0553] - R' is a divalent alkylene group containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0554] - R'' is a straight-chain divalent alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0555] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII), wherein:

[0556] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0557] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0558] - R''' is the same, and is a saturated straight-chain alkyl group containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0559] - R' is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-, or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- group, and

[0560] - R'' is the -(CH2)2- group.

[0561] The most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is bis(C13-15alkoxy)PG-amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name). Of particular note is the silicone marketed by Dow under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioner.

[0562] Preferably, the aminosilicone is selected from aminosilicones of formulas (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (IX), (XI) and / or (XII) as defined above, either alone or as a mixture.

[0563] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more aminosilicones, more preferably being liquid and nonvolatile, especially aminosilicones selected from those of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (IX), (XI) and / or (XII) as defined above, and even more preferably aminosilicones selected from those of formula (I), (III), (IX) and / or (XI) as defined above.

[0564] Preferably, the composition B1 according to the invention contains only one or more amino silicones as silicones; in other words, according to this preference, the composition does not contain (0%) any non-amino silicones.

[0565] Advantageously, composition B1 according to the invention may contain silicones (when they are present), especially aminosilicones, in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0566] Other compounds

[0567] The composition B1 used according to the invention advantageously contains water at a concentration that is particularly preferably ranging from 45% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 50% to 90% by weight, especially from 50% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 55% to 75% by weight.

[0568] C / The composition B2 applied in step (iii)

[0569] Therefore, the method according to the invention includes step (iii) of applying a cosmetic composition B2 to keratin fibers, the cosmetic composition comprising one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof.

[0570] All the features and preferences previously defined for composition B1 also apply to composition B2.

[0571] Preferably, composition B2 comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to the previously defined formula (I) and / or their salts.

[0572] The total content of the amino acid-type compounds present in composition B2 according to the invention is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the range may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0573] In particular, the total content of the aminocarboxylic acid type compound in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0574] Even more preferably, the total content of amino acid compounds selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures thereof in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0575] Most particularly, the total content of amino acid-type compounds selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0576] Even better, the glycine content in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 9% by weight, even better from 2% to 8% by weight, and even better from 3% to 7% by weight.

[0577] The composition B2 used according to the present invention further comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. These (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the previously described amino acid-type compounds.

[0578] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms in composition B2 is preferably at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight.

[0579] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts comprising a total of four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two or three COOH groups in the composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0580] Most notably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, in composition B2 according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0581] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in composition B2 according to the invention ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 1% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight.

[0582] Composition B2 may advantageously contain one or more polysaccharides, particularly selected from nonionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, composition B2 contains one or more nonionic polysaccharides and one or more cationic polysaccharides.

[0583] In a preferred embodiment, composition B2 comprises a total amount of polysaccharides in an amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly in the range of 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 0.45% by weight.

[0584] Even more preferably, composition B2 comprises one or more polysaccharides selected from nonionic polysaccharides, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof in a total amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly ranging from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 0.45% by weight.

[0585] Composition B2 according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, especially those of formula (A1) or (A2) as described above.

[0586] Preferably, the amino acid-derived silicone polymer may be present in composition B2 according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, particularly from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0587] Even better, the amino acid-derived silicone polymer of formula (A1) (where R1 is a hydrolyzed plant protein residue) may be present in composition B2 according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and especially from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0588] The composition B2 according to the invention may advantageously contain one or more polyols.

[0589] The composition B2 according to the invention preferably comprises the polyol in a total amount ranging from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, or even from 12% to 28% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight.

[0590] The composition B2 according to the invention preferably comprises, by weight, 5% to 35%, more preferably 10% to 30%, or even 12% to 28% and more preferably 15% to 25% of a total amount selected from polyols containing two or three -OH groups and two to six straight-chain saturated carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0591] The composition B2 used according to the present invention may optionally contain one or more cationic surfactants.

[0592] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactants in composition B2 is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably 0.4% to 5% by weight.

[0593] Composition B2 may advantageously contain one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0594] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be present in composition B2 in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight.

[0595] The composition B2 according to the invention may optionally contain one or more silicones other than silicone polymers derived from amino acids, and may be particularly selected from amino silicones, non-amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0596] Advantageously, composition B2 according to the invention may contain silicones (when they are present), especially aminosilicones, in a total content preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0597] Composition B2 advantageously contains water at a concentration that is particularly preferably ranging from 45% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, 50% to 90% by weight, especially 50% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably 55% to 75% by weight.

[0598] D / Washing Composition

[0599] The method according to the invention may optionally include, for example, the step of washing keratin fibers with a shampoo, which includes applying a hair washing composition to the keratin fibers, optionally but advantageously followed by rinsing with water, for example.

[0600] The hair washing composition preferably contains one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.

[0601] Therefore, the composition may contain one or more anionic surfactants, or one or more amphoteric surfactants, or a combination of one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. These surfactants are non-silicone surfactants.

[0602] Anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate, and / or carboxylic acid (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, mixtures of these surfactants can be used.

[0603] It should be understood in this specification that:

[0604] - Carboxylate anionic surfactants contain at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO). - It may also optionally contain one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functional groups;

[0605] - Sulfonate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3) - It may also optionally contain one or more sulfate functional groups, but not any carboxylate functional groups; and

[0606] - Sulfate anionic surfactants contain at least one sulfate functional group, but do not contain any carboxylate or sulfonate functional groups.

[0607] Therefore, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactants that can be used include at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO). - ).

[0608] They can be selected from the following compounds: acylglycine salts, acyllactates, acylsarcosine salts, acylglutamate salts; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6- 30Aryl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 28, more preferably 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably indicates phenyl or benzyl; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylene-based, especially polyoxyethylene-based, and then preferably include 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0609] C6-C polyglycosides-polycarboxylic acids can also be used. 24 Alkyl monoesters, such as C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-citrate, C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycosides-tartrates and C6-C 24 Alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinate and its salts.

[0610] Among the above carboxylic acid surfactants, the most particularly noteworthy are polyoxyalkylene-containing alkyl (amide) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing 2 to 50 alkylene groups and particularly ethylene groups, such as compounds marketed by Kao Corporation under the name Akypo.

[0611] The polyoxyalkylene-modified alkyl (amide) ether carboxylic acids that can be used are preferably selected from those of formula (1):

[0612] R 1’ -(OC2H4) n’ -OCH2COOA(1)

[0613] in:

[0614] - R 1' Indicates straight chain or branched chain C6-C 24 Alkyl or alkenyl, (C8-C9) alkylphenyl, group R 2' CONH-CH2-CH2-, where R 2' Indicates whether it is a straight chain or a branched chain C9-C 21 Alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R 1’ It is C8-C 20 C8-C is preferred. 18 alkyl;

[0615] - n' is an integer or decimal (average) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0616] - A indicates H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, or monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residues.

[0617] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) can also be used, especially those containing different R groups. 1’ A mixture of compounds.

[0618] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylene-modified alkyl (amide) ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1), wherein:

[0619] - R 1' C8-C indicates whether it is a straight chain or a branched chain. 22 Especially C 10 -C 16 In fact, even C 12 -C 14 Alkyl, or (C8-C9)alkylphenyl;

[0620] - A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0621] -n' ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0622] Even more preferably, a compound of formula (1) is used, wherein R 1' Instruction C 12 -C 14 Alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, A indicates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0623] Preferably, the carboxylic acid anionic surfactant is selected, alone or in mixtures:

[0624] - Acylglutamate, notably C6-C 24 Or even C 12 -C 20 Acyl glutamate salts, such as stearoyl glutamate, and especially disodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0625] - Acylsarcosine salt, notably C6-C 24 Or even C 12 -C 20 Acylsarcosine salts, such as palmitoylsarcosine salts, and especially palmitoylsarcosine sodium;

[0626] - Acyl lactate, notably C 12 -C 28 Or even C 14 -C 24 Acyl lactates, such as benzyl lactate, and especially sodium benzyl lactate;

[0627] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylglycine salt;

[0628] - (C6-C 24 )alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether carboxylates; especially those containing 2 to 50 ethylidene groups;

[0629] - Polyoxyalkylene-modified (C6-C 24 Alkyl amide ether carboxylic acids, especially those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0630] In particular, it exists in acidic form or as an alkali metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt, ammonium salt or amino alcohol salt.

[0631] Sulfonate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3). - They may be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates; and salts of these compounds;

[0632] The alkyl groups of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 28, even more preferably 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably indicates a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0633] These compounds can be polyoxyalkylene-modified, especially polyoxyethylene-modified, and then preferably contain 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0634] Preferably, the sulfonate anionic surfactant is selected, alone or in mixtures:

[0635] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfonate salts;

[0636] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;

[0637] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinates;

[0638] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinate;

[0639] - (C6-C 24 Acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 Acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate;

[0640] In particular, they are in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alkoxides.

[0641] The sulfate anionic surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3). - ).

[0642] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and salts of these compounds;

[0643] The alkyl groups of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 28, even more preferably 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably indicates a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0644] These compounds can be polyoxyalkylene-modified, especially polyoxyethylene-modified, and then preferably contain 1 to 50 ethyleneoxy units, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethyleneoxy units.

[0645] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactant is selected, alone or in a mixture:

[0646] - Alkyl sulfates, especially C6-C 24 Or even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates, and

[0647] - Alkyl ether sulfates, especially C6-C 24 Or even C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfates, preferably containing 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0648] In particular, they are in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alkoxides.

[0649] When the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, the salt may be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts), ammonium salts, amine salts, and especially amino alkoxides and alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).

[0650] Examples of amino alkoxides that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0651] Alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and sodium or magnesium salts are particularly preferred.

[0652] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected, alone or in a mixture:

[0653] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfates;

[0654] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfate; preferably containing 1 to 20 ethylidene units;

[0655] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinate;

[0656] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;

[0657] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether sulfosuccinate;

[0658] - (C6-C 24 Acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 Acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate;

[0659] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylsarcosine salt;

[0660] - (C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether carboxylates; especially those containing 2 to 50 ethylidene groups;

[0661] - Polyoxyalkylene-modified (C6-C24 Alkylamide ether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing 2 to 50 alkylene groups and particularly ethylene groups;

[0662] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylglutamate;

[0663] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylglycine salt;

[0664] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfonate salts;

[0665] In particular, it exists in acidic form or as an alkali metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt, ammonium salt or amino alcohol salt.

[0666] Preferably, the washing composition is free of (0%) sulfate-based surfactants (sulfate-free); in this case, it advantageously contains one or more anionic surfactants selected—alone or in mixtures—from the following:

[0667] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfonate salts;

[0668] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Alkyl sulfosuccinate;

[0669] - (C6-C 24 Acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, and preferably (C 12 -C 18 Acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate;

[0670] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Acylsarcosine salt;

[0671] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20 Olefin sulfonates;

[0672] - C6-C 24 And especially C 12 -C 20Alkyl ether sulfosuccinate;

[0673] - (C6-C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12 -C 20 Alkyl ether carboxylates; especially those containing 2 to 50 ethylidene groups;

[0674] In particular, it exists in acidic form or as an alkali metal salt or alkaline earth metal salt, ammonium salt or amino alcohol salt.

[0675] When present, anionic surfactants are preferably present in the washing composition in a total amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 28% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0676] The term "amphoteric surfactant" refers to a surfactant that contains one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups that are ionic or ionizable groups.

[0677] In the context of this invention, the amphoteric surfactants that can be used are non-silicone surfactants.

[0678] (C8-C) can be specifically mentioned alone or as a mixture. 20 )alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 )alkyl sulfonyl betaine, (C8-C 20 )alkylamide (C3-C8)alkyl betaine and (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C6-C8) alkyl sulfonyl betaine.

[0679] They may also be selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and the amine derivative contains at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate group.

[0680] Among the optional quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, compounds having the following corresponding structures (A), (B), and (C) may also be mentioned:

[0681] (A)R a -CONHCH2CH2-N + (R b (R) c )-CH2COO - M + X -

[0682] in:

[0683] - R a This indicates that the acid R is derived from the acid that is preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil. a COOH C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl;

[0684] - R b It represents β-hydroxyethyl; and

[0685] - R c Indicates carboxymethyl;

[0686] - M + This indicates a counter ion derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from organic amines, and

[0687] - X - This refers to an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as an anionic counterion selected from halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate, or (C1-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate, particularly methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively, M + and X - It does not exist;

[0688] (B)R a’ -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')

[0689] in:

[0690] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0691] - B' indicates the group -(CH2). z Y', where z = 1 or 2;

[0692] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0693] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z';

[0694] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from organic amines;

[0695] - R a’ The acid R is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil. a’-COOH of C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl, especially C 17 Alkyl groups and their isomers, or unsaturated C4 groups 17 Group.

[0696] These compounds were classified in the 5th edition of the CTFA dictionary in 1993 under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroylamphodiacetate, disodium decanoylamphodiacetate, disodium octanoylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiapropionate, disodium lauroylamphodiapropionate, disodium decanoylamphodiapropionate, disodium octanoylamphodiapropionate, lauroylamphodiapropionic acid, and cocoamphodiapropionic acid.

[0697] For example, one could mention cocoyl amphoteric diacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2MConcentrate.

[0698] (C)R a’’ -NHCH(Y'')-(CH2) n CONH(CH2) n’ -N(R d (R) e )

[0699] in:

[0700] - Y'' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ'', or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H, or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'';

[0701] - R d and R e Each can be independently represented as a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group;

[0702] - Z'' indicates a cationic counter ion derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from organic amines;

[0703] - R a'' The acid R is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil. a'' -COOH of C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl;

[0704] - n and n' independently indicate integers ranging from 1 to 3.

[0705] Among amphoteric surfactants, (C8-C) is preferred. 20 Alkyl betaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20Alkyl amide (C3-C8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (C) such as salts of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinate, especially sodium salts (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocamidopropyl asparagine).

[0706] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C9) 20 Alkyl betaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C3-C8) alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine and mixtures thereof.

[0707] When present, the amphoteric surfactants are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight.

[0708] Preferably, the washing composition comprises anionic surfactant and amphoteric surfactant in a total amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (i.e., the sum of the contents of anionic surfactant and amphoteric surfactant).

[0709] The washing composition may advantageously contain one or more silicones, especially amino silicones; one or more cationic polymers; one or more polyols; one or more nonionic surfactants; and mixtures of these different components.

[0710] In the following text, all the features and preferences previously defined for composition B1 also apply to the washing composition.

[0711] The washing composition may also contain one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to the previously defined formula (I) and / or their salts.

[0712] The total content of amino acid-type compounds present in the washing composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and especially from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0713] The washing composition may also contain one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms and / or their salts.

[0714] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts containing a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms in the detergent composition can range from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and especially from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0715] The washing composition may advantageously contain one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, especially those of formula (A1) or (A2) as described above.

[0716] Preferably, the amino acid-derived silicone polymer may be present in the washing composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, particularly from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0717] The washing composition may advantageously contain water, particularly in the range of 45% to 95% by weight, for example 50% to 90% by weight, especially 50% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably 55% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0718] E / conditioning composition

[0719] The method according to the invention may optionally include, for example, the step of conditioning keratin fibers with a hair mask or hair conditioner, the step of which includes applying a hair conditioning composition to the keratin fibers, optionally but advantageously followed by rinsing, for example, with water.

[0720] Unless otherwise indicated, all the characteristics and preferences previously defined for composition B1 also apply to the conditioning composition, especially with respect to the ingredients mentioned below.

[0721] The hair conditioning composition preferably comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances, particularly selected from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the conditioning composition comprises at least one or more solid fatty substances, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols.

[0722] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, and can be straight-chain or branched, and contain 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0723] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol has the structure R-OH, where R represents a straight-chain alkyl group, which is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and contains 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0724] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched monohydric alcohols, more preferably straight-chain and saturated, containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols that can be used are selected from saturated straight-chain monohydric alcohols containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0725] In particular, myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanool); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanool); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanool); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanool); betaine alcohol (or 1-docosahexadecanool); creosote alcohol (or 1-tetradecanool); wax alcohol (or 1-hexadecanool); montanol (or 1-octadecanool); beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol.

[0726] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, betaine alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0727] Preferably, the total amount of fatty substances, especially solid fatty substances, can be 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 2% to 18% by weight, even more preferably 3% to 15% by weight, and preferably 5% to 12% by weight.

[0728] The hair conditioning composition preferably contains one or more cationic surfactants.

[0729] When present, the total content of cationic surfactants in the conditioning composition is preferably in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably 1% to 5% by weight.

[0730] The hair conditioning composition preferably contains one or more silicones.

[0731] Advantageously, the conditioning composition may contain silicones (when they are present), especially amino silicones, in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0732] The conditioning composition may also contain one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from compounds corresponding to the previously defined formula (I) and / or their salts.

[0733] The total content of amino acid-type compounds present in the conditioning composition can range from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and especially from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0734] The conditioning composition may also contain one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0735] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts containing a total of two to eight carbon atoms present in the conditioning composition can range from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and especially from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0736] The conditioning composition may advantageously comprise one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, especially those of formula (A1) or (A2) as described above.

[0737] Preferably, the amino acid-derived silicone polymer may be present in the conditioning composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and especially from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0738] The conditioning composition may advantageously contain water at a concentration that is particularly preferably ranging from 55% to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, 60% to 95% by weight, especially 65% ​​to 92% by weight, and even more preferably 70% to 90% by weight.

[0739] F / Dye Composition

[0740] The method according to the invention may optionally include a dyeing step, which includes applying a hair dye composition to keratin fibers.

[0741] The dye composition may contain one or more colorants, particularly selected from oxidative dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0742] The term "oxidative dye" refers to an oxidative dye precursor selected from an oxidizing chromogenic base and a color-forming agent. The oxidizing chromogenic base and the color-forming agent are colorless or slightly colored compounds that form colored substances through a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent.

[0743] The term "direct dye" refers to natural and / or synthetic dyes other than oxidative dyes, including those in the form of one or more extracts. These are compounds that color fibers by spreading them onto a surface. They can be ionic or nonionic, i.e., anionic, cationic, neutral, or nonionic.

[0744] Oxidative dyes are typically selected from one or more oxidative color-developing bases that are optionally combined with one or more color-forming agents (also known as couplers).

[0745] The dye composition may optionally contain one or more oxidizing bases, which are advantageously selected from those conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

[0746] For example, the oxidizing chromogenic base is selected from p-phenylenediamine, bis(phenyl)alkylene diamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and heterocyclic chromogenic bases, as well as the corresponding addition salts.

[0747] The dye composition may optionally contain one or more coloring agents, which are advantageously selected from those conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

[0748] Among these colorants, m-phenylenediamine, m-aminophenol, m-diphenol, naphthalene-based colorants and heterocyclic colorants, as well as their corresponding addition salts, especially acid addition salts, such as hydrochloride, hydrobromide, sulfate, citrate, succinate, tartrate, lactate, toluenesulfonate, benzenesulfonate, phosphate, and acetate, can be mentioned in particular.

[0749] The dye composition may optionally comprise one or more direct dyes. Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methimide dyes, such as cyanine, hemicyanine, and styryl dyes; carbonyl dyes; azazine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes; and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. The direct dyes are preferably selected from cationic direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0750] The dye composition may contain at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0751] The term "chemical oxidant" refers to an oxidant other than oxygen in the atmosphere.

[0752] Preferably, the chemical oxidant is selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxides, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof.

[0753] Even better, the chemical oxidant is selected from hydrogen peroxide, peroxide salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0754] Even better, the chemical oxidant is selected from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or ammonium, and mixtures thereof.

[0755] The preferred chemical oxidant is hydrogen peroxide.

[0756] Examples of peroxides that may be mentioned include sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, or ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0757] The dye composition may contain a chemical oxidant in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

[0758] The dye composition may optionally contain one or more alkali agents. Preferably, the dye composition contains one or more organic or inorganic alkali agents.

[0759] The inorganic alkali agent is preferably selected from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates (such as sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate), sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates (such as sodium silicate or potassium silicate or sodium metasilicate or potassium metasilicate), or mixtures thereof.

[0760] Organic basic agents are preferably selected from those having a pK value of less than 12, preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6 at 25°C. b Organic amines. It should be noted that this corresponds to the pK value of the functional group with the highest basicity. b Furthermore, organic amines do not contain any alkyl or alkenyl aliphatic chains containing more than ten carbon atoms.

[0761] The organic base agent is selected from, for example, alkanolamines, oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated ethylenediamines, amino acids, and compounds of formula (III):

[0762]

[0763] in:

[0764] - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, which may optionally be substituted with a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6) alkyl group, and / or may optionally be substituted with one or more heteroatoms (such as oxygen) or NR. u insert;

[0765] - R x R y R z R t and R u They can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group selected from (C1-C6)alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl.

[0766] Examples of amines of formula (III) that may be mentioned include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

[0767] The term "alkanolamine" refers to an organic amine that contains a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group and one or more straight-chain or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups with one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0768] Organic amines selected from those containing one to three identical or different C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, such as monoalkylamines, dialkylamines, or trialkylamines, are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0769] Among compounds of this type, monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane may be mentioned.

[0770] More specifically, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic forms, and contain at least one acid functional group selected more specifically from the following: carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, phosphonic acids, and phosphate functional groups. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.

[0771] Among the amino acids that can be used in dye compositions, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine are particularly noteworthy.

[0772] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids, which contain additional amine functional groups (optionally included in cyclic or urea functional groups).

[0773] These basic amino acids are preferably selected from those corresponding to formula (IV) below, as well as their salts:

[0774]

[0775] Wherein R represents a group selected from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH2)2N(H)-C(O)-NH2; and -(CH2)2-N(H)-C(NH)-NH2.

[0776] Among the compounds of formula (IV), histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline may be mentioned.

[0777] Organic amines can also be selected from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine, which has already been mentioned in the section on amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetraazole, and benzimidazole are particularly noteworthy.

[0778] Organic amines can also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. Among the amino acid dipeptides that can be used in this invention, carnosine, anserine, and balenine are particularly noteworthy.

[0779] Organic amines can also be selected from compounds containing guanidine functional groups. In addition to arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatine anhydride, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, guanidinoacetic acid, metformin, guanidinobutylamine, n-amidinylalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid can also be selected.

[0780] Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include salts of amines and acids (such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid) mentioned earlier.

[0781] Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used specifically.

[0782] Preferably, the alkali agent is selected from ammonia, alkanolamine, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the alkali agent present in the dye composition is monoethanolamine. More preferably, the alkali agent present in the bleaching composition is selected from sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0783] The total content of the alkali agent included in the dye composition can range from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight.

[0784] The following examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to be limiting. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass (g% AM) of the active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0785] Example 1

[0786] Prepare the following compositions B1 and B2 (% AM) according to the present invention:

[0787] [Table 1]

[0788]

[0789] The following shampoo compositions and hair mask compositions were also prepared:

[0790] [Table 2]

[0791]

[0792] This yields a hair composition, which can be used, in particular, in the method according to the invention:

[0793] - Apply a bleaching composition containing persulfate, leave it on, and then rinse it off.

[0794] - Apply composition B1, leave on for 5 minutes, followed by a shampooing and rinsing step, and then...

[0795] - Apply composition B2, leave for 10 minutes, then...

[0796] - Apply a hair mask and rinse it off at the end.

[0797] The interval between applying B1 and B2 is approximately 10-15 minutes.

[0798] Example 2

[0799] The reinforcement of keratin fibers treated by the method according to the present invention was evaluated using DSC technology.

[0800] Measurements were taken of hair strands that had previously been manually bleached (5.7 g) and then treated according to the following protocol:

[0801] refer to Wash the hair strands with a neutral shampoo and rinse. Apply 2 g of the composition B1 described in Example 1 to each hair strand and apply the conditioning composition (hair mask) in layers to each hair strand. Leave the hair mask on for 5 minutes and then rinse it off.

[0802] This invention After rinsing off the bleach, apply 2 g of the composition B1 described in Example 1 to each hair strand, leave for 5 minutes, then wash the hair strand with a neutral shampoo, rinse, and apply 2 g of the composition B2 described in Example 1 to each hair strand, and apply the conditioning composition (hair mask) in layers to each hair strand, leave the hair mask on for 5 minutes, and then rinse off.

[0803] [Table 3]

[0804]

[0805] Measurement Method: Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is a method known to those skilled in the art for quantifying the strengthening of proteins in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, https: / / doi.org / 10.1016 / j.tca.2018.01.014 &F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137(1993)). The principle of the test is to measure the denaturation temperature of the proteins. It is generally believed that the higher the denaturation temperature of the proteins, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which reflects a reduction in fiber breakage. Denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of keratin present in the cortex. Therefore, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density between proteins: disulfide bridges break and the cortex is damaged. Those skilled in the art consider a difference of 2°C to be a significant change.

[0806] The instrument used for the measurement is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference instrument. This instrument measures the energy flow of the sample during heating. The temperature at which the maximum energy flow occurs represents the denaturation temperature.

[0807] The following results were obtained (the average of three measurements taken for each hair lock):

[0808] [Table 4]

[0809]

[0810] Example 3

[0811] Prepare the following compositions B1A and B2A (% AM) according to the present invention:

[0812] [Table 5]

[0813]

[0814] RM stands for raw materials.

[0815] SQ means sufficient quantity.

[0816] The following compositions B3 and B4 were also prepared (for comparison with the first embodiment of the present invention) (% AM):

[0817] [Table 6]

[0818]

[0819] The cosmetic properties of keratin fibers treated by the method according to the invention (applying compositions B1A and B2A in steps (ii) and (iii) respectively) are compared with those of keratin fibers treated by a method including applying compositions B3 and B4 in steps (ii) and (iii) respectively.

[0820] The solutions used in these two cases are detailed below:

[0821] - Apply a bleaching composition containing persulfate, leave it on, and then rinse it off.

[0822] - Apply composition B1A (B3), leave on for 5 minutes, followed by a shampooing and rinsing step, and then...

[0823] - Apply composition B2A (B4), leave on for 10 minutes, then...

[0824] - Apply a hair mask and rinse it off at the end.

[0825] The interval between administering B1A and B2A is approximately 10-15 minutes. Similarly, the interval between administering B3 and B4 is approximately 10-15 minutes.

[0826] Result: Smoothness and silkiness on wet hair

[0827] Performance quality in terms of smoothness and silkiness was assessed in a blind test on wet hair by three experts. Each of the three experts gave a score between -2 and +2 for each hair strand, representing the performance difference compared to a reference (including a comparison procedure involving the application of B3 followed by the application of B4) according to the following scale:

[0828] [-2]: If the hair strands show worse softness / smoothness than the reference;

[0829] [0]: No difference compared to the reference;

[0830] [+2]: If the tested hair strands show better softness / smoothness than the reference.

[0831] The assessment of smoothness is tactile. Experts pick up hair with both hands and attempt to fold it. They evaluate the hair's ability to bend easily and its flexibility.

[0832] To assess smoothness, experts hold a section of hair between their thumb and forefinger and slide their fingers along the section from top to bottom. They assess evenness, the uniformity of the hair from root to tip, the presence of rough patches, and whether their fingers get stuck in the hair.

[0833] The results are given below:

[0834]

[0835]

[0836] Three out of three experts (100%) agreed that keratin fibers treated with the method according to the first embodiment of the invention (including the application of compositions B1A and B2A in steps (ii) and (iii) respectively) were softer and smoother than those treated with the reference method. These results are significant given the standard deviation.

[0837] The method according to the first embodiment of the present invention produces superior smoothness and softness performance on wet hair compared to the reference method.

Claims

1. A method for treating keratin fibers, particularly hair, especially dyeing and / or bleaching methods, said method comprising: - Step (i) of applying hair bleaching composition A to the keratin fibers, and then - Step (ii) of applying cosmetic composition B1 to the keratin fibers, said cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.5% by weight of one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, and then... - Step (iii) of applying cosmetic composition B2 to the keratin fibers, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof; Steps (ii) and (iii) should be spaced out by a maximum of 2 hours, especially a maximum of 90 minutes, or even a maximum of 60 minutes, preferably a maximum of 30 minutes, or even better a maximum of 15 minutes.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein: - The cosmetic composition B1 comprises one or more polysaccharides, which are preferably present in a total amount of at least 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or - The cosmetic composition B2 contains one or more polysaccharides, which are present in a total amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A hair treatment method for keratin fibers, especially hair, particularly a dyeing and / or bleaching method, said method comprising: - Step (i) of applying hair bleaching composition A to the keratin fibers, and then - Step (ii) of applying cosmetic composition B1 to the keratin fibers, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof; And one or more polysaccharides present in a total amount of at least 0.6% by weight, and then - Step (iii) of applying cosmetic composition B2 to the keratin fibers, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds; one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof; And one or more polysaccharides present in a total amount strictly less than 0.6% by weight.

4. The method according to claim 3, wherein, Steps (ii) and (iii) should be spaced out by a maximum of 2 hours, especially a maximum of 90 minutes, or even a maximum of 60 minutes, preferably a maximum of 30 minutes, or even better a maximum of 15 minutes.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The amino acid-type compounds present in composition B1 and / or composition B2 are selected from compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts, or zinc salts: Where p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it should be understood that: - When p = 1, R forms a saturated heterocycle with nitrogen atoms containing 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, which may optionally be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or (C1-C4) alkyl groups; - When p = 2, R represents hydrogen atoms or saturated, straight-chain or branched (C1-C) atoms. 12 Alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, optionally having one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or C5-C7 aryl, especially phenyl - which itself is optionally substituted by one or more OH groups; Preferably, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight-chain or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, which may optionally be inserted with a -S-heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; even more preferably, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom; It is also preferably selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from glycine, their salts, especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, Composition B1 and / or composition B2 comprise: one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, said hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups; and / or salts thereof, especially alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or zinc salts; said carboxylic acid and / or salts thereof are preferably selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even more preferably citric acid or its salts, especially alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium citrate.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The bleaching composition A comprises: - One or more chemical oxidizing agents; said chemical oxidizing agent is particularly selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxides, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, peroxides and mixtures thereof; preferably one or more persulfates; and / or - One or more organic or inorganic alkaline agents; said alkaline agents are particularly selected from ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates and mixtures thereof; and are more preferably selected from alkali metal silicates or metasilicates, especially from sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The composition B1 applied in step (ii) and / or the composition B2 applied in step (iii) comprises: - One or more nonionic polysaccharides, said nonionic polysaccharides being selected—alone or as a mixture—cellulose, galactomannan and their nonionic derivatives, especially their ethers; more preferably selected—alone or as a mixture—optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy (C1-C6)alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl nonionic guar gum; and / or may be substituted or unsubstituted cellulose, and cellulose ethers, such as (C1-C4)alkyl cellulose and (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl cellulose; more preferably selected—alone or as a mixture—optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy (C1-C6)alkyl, especially hydroxypropyl nonionic guar gum; and / or - One or more cationic polysaccharides, wherein the cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum and mixtures thereof.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The composition B1 applied in step (ii) and / or the composition B2 applied in step (iii) comprises one or more silicone polymers derived from amino acids, especially those of formula (A1) or (A2): in: - n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20, even better between 1 and 10, even better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3; - R1 is a polypeptide chain derived from amino acids such as cysteine.

10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The composition B1 applied in step (ii) and / or the composition B2 applied in step (iii) comprises one or more polyols and / or one or more cationic surfactants, and / or one or more nonionic surfactants, and / or one or more silicones, especially amino silicones.

11. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, After step (ii) – after an optional dwell time and before step (iii) – comes the step of washing the keratin fibers, for example, with shampoo, followed by a rinsing step, for example, with water.

12. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, After step (ii) – after an optional dwell time, optional washing and optional rinsing – comes the step of dyeing the keratin fibers with a dye composition containing one or more direct dyes; the dyeing step itself may be followed by, for example, washing the keratin fibers with shampoo, followed by, for example, rinsing with water.

13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, After step (iii) – after an optional dwell time – comes the step of applying a hair conditioning composition containing one or more conditioning agents, followed by a rinsing step, for example, with water.

14. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, for example, drying the keratin fibers naturally or using a hair dryer.

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