Nature-look water-washed spun fabric and method for making the same
By employing the interweaving and specific yarn arrangement of yarns with different shrinkage properties in worsted fabrics, combined with loose finishing and crepe finishing processes, the problems of high energy consumption and fiber damage in worsted fabrics have been solved. This has resulted in the production of low-damage, high-efficiency, natural-looking fabrics with excellent elasticity, making them suitable for casual wear.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- SHANDONG LUJIANA TEXTILE & GARMENT CO LTD
- Filing Date
- 2026-03-25
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing worsted fabrics suffer from high energy consumption, fiber damage, and insufficient bulk and elasticity during the manufacturing process, making it difficult to meet the requirements of natural appearance and comfort for casual wear.
By interweaving or blending yarns with different heat and/or wet shrinkage properties, combined with a carding and spinning process with low tension, low speed and light draft, and through a double-layer structure and specific yarn arrangement design, combined with loose finishing and crepe finishing processes, including a three-stage gradient relaxation treatment and a high-speed airflow softening washing machine treatment, a stable natural appearance and excellent elasticity are formed.
This technology enables the production of finely spun fabrics with a natural appearance, strong three-dimensional texture, fluffy and flexible hand feel, and excellent elasticity, with low damage and high efficiency. These fabrics are suitable for casual wear, reduce production energy consumption and fiber damage, and improve weaving efficiency and fabric comfort.
Smart Images

Figure CN122147591A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile fabrics and their processing technology, specifically to a natural-looking washed worsted fabric and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] With the fast pace of life and increasing work pressure, modern consumers are increasingly seeking a relaxed, casual, and natural experience in their clothing. Traditional worsted wool fabrics, mostly in classic business styles, are dense in texture and have a smooth appearance. While suitable for formal occasions, they fail to meet the growing demand for casual wear in terms of feel, natural appearance, and comfort. Furthermore, traditional worsted wool fabrics often employ strong ironing and steaming processes in their finishing.
[0003] To improve the feel and style of worsted fabrics, current technologies often employ strong ironing and steaming processes to achieve a tight, flexible finish (meaning a fabric with a dense structure yet retaining a soft and elastic feel). This process is not only energy-intensive and inefficient, but also negatively impacts the bulk and elasticity of wool fibers, leading to fiber damage, high production costs, and insufficient bulk and elasticity in the finished product. It also makes it difficult to achieve a stable texture and a natural, distressed wash look. Furthermore, the pursuit of a tight, flexible finish in traditional processes limits the final fabric's strength and the full expression of the inherent bulk of wool fibers.
[0004] In summary, the existing technology has the following limitations: ①Production efficiency and consumption: Strong scalding and strong steaming are high-energy-consuming processes, resulting in high production consumption.
[0005] ② Damage to product performance: In order to achieve a tight fit, greater mechanical tension may affect the strength index of the final product, causing certain damage.
[0006] ③ Suppression of fiber characteristics: This finishing method, which emphasizes flatness and tightness, prevents the natural fluffiness of wool fibers from being fully expressed, sacrificing some of the unique softness and supple feel of wool.
[0007] Therefore, how to prepare worsted fabrics with a stable, natural appearance, excellent elasticity and comfort, and suitable for casual wear, and thus achieve low-damage and high-efficiency production of worsted fabrics, is a technical problem that urgently needs to be solved. Summary of the Invention The technical objective of this invention is to provide a natural-looking washed worsted fabric and its preparation method, in order to solve the problem of how to prepare a worsted fabric with a stable natural appearance, excellent elasticity and comfort, and suitable for casual wear, thereby achieving low-damage and high-efficiency worsted fabric production.
[0008] The technical objective of this invention is achieved by providing a method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric, the specific preparation method of which is as follows: Raw material selection and spinning: Yarns with different heat and / or wet shrinkage properties are interwoven or blended. The interwoven or blended yarns are woven using a carding and spinning process with low tension, low speed and light draft to reduce mechanical damage to the fibers. Weaving: Weaving is carried out using a double-layer structure or a front-and-back joint structure. The yarns with different shrinkage properties in the warp and weft yarns are arranged in an asymmetrical variable-pitch interlaced yarn arrangement design. Combined with double-layer reed technology, the weaving density and sheath height are reduced. At the same time, low tension weaving (such as 30-33 cN / thread) is used to ensure weaving efficiency and reduce yarn breakage. Dyeing and finishing: Raw trimming → Loose finishing → Brushing 1 → Singeing → Flat washing and boiling → Drying → Intermediate inspection → Finishing → Crepe washing and finishing → Water soaking and drying → Brushing 2 → Shearing → Ironing 1 → Steaming 1 → Ironing 2 → Oiling → Steaming 2; The loose finishing process is carried out on a flat washing and boiling machine. Specifically, it involves overfeeding (5-7%), low tension, and treatment in an acetic acid and auxiliary agent solution at pH 4.5-6.0 and temperature 80-98℃ to release the internal stress of the fibers. Then, it is baked at high temperature, which significantly improves the shrinkage rate of the fabric (especially the weft direction) and makes the finished product more fluffy and elastic. The crepe finishing process is carried out in a high-speed airflow softening washing machine. Specifically, it utilizes high-speed airflow (80% for the main fan and 90% for the exhaust fan), temperature (85℃), and imidazoline-type softeners and formic acid bulking agents to promote fiber swelling and weaken the intermolecular forces. Under the combined effect of the internal stress difference between high-shrinkage limit and low-shrinkage fibers and the felting characteristics of wool, the greige fabric produces a natural and casual crepe effect. Then, the natural appearance is permanently fixed through subsequent high-temperature setting. Tests have shown that this process can increase the elasticity of the fabric from 240° to over 305°, while controlling the shrinkage rate to around 5%.
[0009] As a preferred option, the loose finishing process is as follows: Pretreatment and tension detection: The fabric blank is placed on a special super-feed fabric feeding device. Before entering the water tank, a non-contact tension sensor is used to detect the warp tension of the fabric blank in real time to ensure that the fabric tension is stable at 4-6 N / m (Newtons per meter). This tension is much lower than the fabric tension of traditional loosening finishing (usually greater than 10 N / m), creating initial conditions for subsequent deep relaxation. Three-stage gradient relaxation treatment: A three-stage gradient relaxation treatment is achieved through a continuous multi-functional water washing and finishing machine that integrates spray penetration, shallow liquid flow oscillation tank and ultrasonic oscillator (low frequency wave generation unit). Precise intermediate drying and micro-control: After undergoing a three-stage gradient relaxation process, the fabric enters the first drying zone, specifically: a dual-airflow impact drying method is used, with precise control of hot air temperature and velocity (hot air temperature 80-85℃, velocity 8-10m / s), to precisely dry the fabric's moisture content to 22-25% (this humidity range is the key window for achieving ideal texture in subsequent crepe washing; traditional processes typically dry to lower moisture content or higher temperatures); after drying, the fabric is stacked and balanced in a constant temperature and humidity environment (temperature 22±1℃, humidity 65±2%) for 30-40 minutes to ensure uniform distribution of moisture and internal stress within the fabric; the weft overfeed rate in the first drying zone is controlled at 5-7% to maintain a relaxed state.
[0010] More preferably, the three-level gradient relaxation process is as follows: First-stage cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage: The fabric passes through the first treatment zone at a speed of 12-15 meters per minute; the first treatment zone does not have a liquid tank, but uses a high-pressure atomizing spray system to evenly spray a low-temperature treatment liquid with a temperature of 18-22℃ and a pH value of 5.0-5.3 (precisely adjusted with citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution) onto the fabric surface; Secondary temperature-controlled oscillation relaxation stage: The fabric is then placed in a shallow liquid flow oscillation tank at 30-35℃. The treatment liquid in the shallow liquid flow oscillation tank has the same formula as the spray liquid in the high-pressure atomization spray system of the primary cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage, with a liquid level depth of 5-8 cm. An ultrasonic oscillator with a frequency of 15-20 Hz and an amplitude of 3-5 mm is installed at the bottom of the shallow liquid flow oscillation tank. The fabric passes gently through the liquid flow under low tension (controlled by an active overfeed roller with an overfeed rate of 8-10%). The oscillation promotes the penetration of the treatment liquid into the fiber interior and induces micro-slippage between fibers, further releasing internal stress. The treatment time is 90-120 seconds. The third-stage humid heat low-tension relaxation stage: After leaving the shallow flow oscillation tank, the fiber is overfed (5-7%) and treated in a low-tension state in an acetic acid and auxiliary agent solution with a pH of 4.5-6.0 and a temperature of 80-98℃. This releases the internal stress of the fiber, with a residence time of 70-90 seconds. The humid heat environment promotes the fiber to fully absorb moisture and swell, and intensifies the movement of molecular chain segments. This solidifies and manifests the relaxation effect accumulated in the first-stage cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage and the second-stage temperature-controlled oscillation relaxation stage on a macroscopic scale. No chemical auxiliary agents are added in the third-stage humid heat low-tension relaxation stage.
[0011] As a preferred option, the specific process of the finishing and finishing is as follows: Wrinkle initiation stage: Start the main fan to 60% of the rated power, the airflow temperature is 75-78℃, and the exhaust volume is 85%; set the airflow circulation mode to the rotating convection mode, so that the fabric initially forms random and fine natural creases under low tension (overfeed rate 3-5%), and the processing time is 4-6 minutes. Texture shaping stage: Increase the main fan power to 90% of the rated power, raise the airflow temperature to 88-92℃, and simultaneously activate the three-dimensional airflow guidance system. Through a preset program, the airflow direction is periodically and asymmetrically oscillated in a plane perpendicular to the fabric surface (oscillation frequency 0.1-0.3 Hz, angle ±30°). In the texture shaping stage, enhanced and directional impact airflow is used to guide the fibers to undergo differentiated slippage and entanglement, shaping the fine creases in the wrinkle initiation stage into deeper, more three-dimensional and directional natural textures (such as imitating bark texture, water texture, etc.). During the texture shaping stage, the exhaust volume is adjusted to 95%, and the processing time is 8-10 minutes. Texture setting stage: Maintain airflow temperature at 92-95℃, reduce main fan power to 40% of rated power, and switch airflow mode to gentle surround mode; The purpose of the texture setting stage is to promote the formation of a cross-linking network of elastic catalysts, including imidazoline softeners and formic acid bulking agents, at the fiber interface through gentle hot air action without damaging the existing texture structure. At the same time, the microcapsule wall material melts and the core material is released and penetrates into the fiber microstructure, achieving heat and moisture combined setting of the texture; The processing time of the texture setting stage is 5-7 minutes.
[0012] As a preferred method, the water-impregnated padding and drying process is as follows: the washed and finished fabric enters the padding tank with a padding rate of 65-70%, then pre-dries at 105-110℃ for 1.5-2.0 minutes, and finally bakes at 150-155℃ for 45-60 seconds.
[0013] Preferably, the yarn is made of wool fibers and high-shrinkage fibers; The high-shrinkage fiber is either polyester yarn (high-shrinkage polyester fiber) or acrylic yarn (high-shrinkage polyacrylonitrile fiber). Preferably, it is a blend of 70% wool fiber and 30% high-shrinkage polyester; or, a blend of 70% wool fiber and 30% high-shrinkage acrylic; or, a three-component blend of 70% wool fiber, 10% acrylic, and 20% polyester. The yarn count range is, for example, from 52s / 1 to 90s / 2, and a low-tension, low-speed, and light-draft carding and spinning process is used to reduce fiber mechanical damage.
[0014] As a preferred option, during the weaving process, the warp and weft yarns are uniformly arranged in a 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B cycle; Among them, yarn A is a low-shrinkage wool yarn, which is machine washable wool with a boiling water shrinkage rate of ≤3%. It is made of 70% wool yarn and 30% polyester yarn, 90s / 2 count, and a twist coefficient of 130. B yarn is made of high-shrinkage polyester yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 35% to 40%, and is made of 300D high-shrinkage polyester filament twisted. C yarn is a double high shrinkage composite yarn, that is, a blend of 70% wool yarn and 30% acrylic yarn, 52s / 1 count, with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30% to 35%, which is a second high shrinkage yarn used to adjust the shrinkage gradient in the transition section.
[0015] More preferably, the 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B cycle arrangement has a total pitch of 15 yarns, and the specific segment distribution is as follows: 3 low-shrinkage wool yarns (A) → 2 high-shrinkage polyester yarns (B) → 1 low-shrinkage wool yarn (A) → 3 double high-shrinkage composite yarns (C) → 2 low-shrinkage wool yarns (A) → 4 high-shrinkage polyester yarns (B); The entire fabric is infinitely repeated with a total pitch of 15 yarns, and the warp and weft yarn arrangement ratio of the outer and inner layers is 2:1 (outer layer fine yarn A / C, inner layer coarse yarn B, to meet the principle of not showing the bottom). The double-layer structure is as follows: the outer layer consists of warp and weft yarns arranged in a cyclic pattern of 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B, and the inner layer consists of single-color high-shrinkage polyester yarn (B) arranged in a single direction. The splicing method is a joint splicing, and the splicing points are evenly distributed at the junction of yarn A and yarn C, which is highly concealed.
[0016] A natural-looking washed worsted fabric is prepared using the method described above for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric.
[0017] The natural-looking washed worsted fabric and its preparation method of the present invention have the following advantages: (I) This invention aims to provide a washed worsted fabric with a natural appearance, strong three-dimensional texture, fluffy and flexible hand feel, excellent elasticity and suitable for casual wear, and its efficient and low-damage preparation method. Through raw material innovation, yarn arrangement design, loose finishing and crepe finishing and other technologies, a high-quality imitation fabric with a stable natural appearance, excellent elasticity and comfort, suitable for casual wear is prepared, and a low-damage and high-efficiency production process is achieved, thereby turning to the production of casual style fabrics with natural texture and fluffy elasticity, overcoming the shortcomings of the existing technology in terms of style diversity, production energy consumption and the presentation of the natural characteristics of wool; (ii) This invention uses fibers with different shrinkage properties (such as wool, high-shrinkage polyester, and high-shrinkage acrylic) to blend or interweave. Through specific yarn arrangement and double-layer structure design, combined with loose finishing and crepe finishing processes, a stable and natural texture is formed on the fabric surface, which has a fluffy and lively feel, high elastic elongation and good breathability. (III) This invention uses blended fibers with different shrinkage properties and specific yarn arrangement to achieve stable formation of natural texture on the fabric surface. It also combines double-layer structure design and low-tension weaving process to reduce fiber damage and improve weaving efficiency. At the same time, through the synergistic process of loose finishing and crepe finishing, it significantly improves the fabric shrinkage rate, elasticity and hand feel. It adopts a complete low-damage preparation process, covering the optimization of the entire process of dyeing, spinning, weaving and finishing. (iv) Appearance innovation: Through the combination design of yarns with different shrinkage properties and innovative crepe finishing technology, the fabric finally presents a natural texture and washed appearance that is either regular or random, breaking the flat style of traditional worsted fabrics and making it more fashionable and personalized. (V) Excellent performance: This invention employs a special low-tension "light finishing" process, which maximizes the preservation of the fluffiness and elasticity of wool fibers. The finished product has a soft and supple hand feel, good breathability, and significant elastic elongation. The loose finishing process effectively improves the dimensional stability of the fabric; (vi) Environmentally friendly and efficient process: Compared with the traditional strong hot ironing and steaming process, the loose and crepe washing finishing process of the present invention reduces energy consumption and production consumption; in addition, the coating process scheme (optional) mentioned in the present invention uses environmentally friendly additives and organic pigments, which is in line with the trend of energy conservation and emission reduction. (vii) Wide range of applications: This invention is applicable to a variety of casual clothing such as outerwear, suits, shirts, and trousers, satisfying consumers' demand for clothing that is both beautiful and practical; (viii) The fabric of the present invention has both a natural three-dimensional appearance and a casual and fashionable feel, and is suitable for a wider range of occasions; (ix) The finishing process of this invention has low damage, better maintains the fluffiness and strength of the fibers, and improves wearing comfort; and the shrinkage rate is significantly reduced, the dimensional stability is good, and the appearance is well maintained after multiple washes, thereby improving production efficiency, reducing energy consumption, and facilitating mass production and enhancing market competitiveness. (x) Other high-shrinkage fibers (such as modified nylon) can be used to replace polyester / acrylic fiber in this invention; the yarn arrangement can be adjusted to other regular or irregular combinations; the finishing agent can be replaced with the same type of environmentally friendly agent, and it can be used in the fields of casual suits, jackets, trousers and home textiles. Attached Figure Description
[0018] The invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
[0019] Appendix Figure 1 The microstructure of wool fibers; Appendix Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of polyacrylonitrile fibers; Appendix Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of polyester fiber; Appendix Figure 4 A schematic diagram of the process for loose finishing; Appendix Figure 5 A schematic diagram of the process for washing and finishing Zou; Appendix Figure 6 This is a diagram showing the yarn arrangement in the weave structure. Detailed Implementation
[0020] The following detailed description of the natural-looking washed worsted fabric and its preparation method, with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments, is provided below. Example
[0021] This embodiment provides a method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric. The method involves interweaving or blending yarns with different heat / wet shrinkage properties, followed by a specific weave design and dyeing and finishing processes including loose finishing and crepe finishing. The final fabric exhibits intricate natural crepe patterns or a uniform textured surface, with a fluffy hand feel, excellent elasticity, and maintains a stable natural-looking appearance even after multiple washes. Details are as follows: S1. Raw material selection and spinning: Yarns with different heat and / or wet shrinkage properties are interwoven or blended. The interwoven or blended yarns are woven using a carding and spinning process with low tension, low speed and light draft to reduce mechanical damage to the fibers. S2. Weaving: Weaving is carried out using a double-layer structure or a front-and-back joint structure. The yarns with different shrinkage properties in the warp and weft yarns are arranged in an asymmetrical variable-pitch interlaced yarn arrangement design. Combined with double-layer reed technology, the weaving density and sheath height are reduced. At the same time, low tension weaving (such as 30-33 cN / thread) is used to ensure weaving efficiency and reduce yarn breakage. S3. Dyeing and finishing: Raw trimming → Loose finishing → Brushing 1 → Singeing → Flat washing and boiling → Drying → Intermediate inspection → Finishing → Crepe washing and finishing → Water soaking and drying → Brushing 2 → Shearing → Ironing 1 → Steaming 1 → Ironing 2 → Oiling → Steaming 2; The loose finishing process is carried out on a flat washing and boiling machine. Specifically, it involves overfeeding (5-7%), low tension, and treatment in an acetic acid and auxiliary agent solution at pH 4.5-6.0 and temperature 80-98℃ to release the internal stress of the fibers. Then, it is baked at high temperature, which significantly improves the shrinkage rate of the fabric (especially the weft direction) and makes the finished product more fluffy and elastic. The crepe finishing process is carried out in a high-speed airflow softening washing machine. Specifically, it utilizes high-speed airflow (80% for the main fan and 90% for the exhaust fan), temperature (85℃), and imidazoline-type softeners and formic acid bulking agents to promote fiber swelling and weaken the intermolecular forces. Under the combined effect of the internal stress difference between high-shrinkage limit and low-shrinkage fibers and the felting characteristics of wool, the greige fabric produces a natural and casual crepe effect. Then, the natural appearance is permanently fixed through subsequent high-temperature setting. Tests have shown that this process can increase the elasticity of the fabric from 240° to over 305°, while controlling the shrinkage rate to around 5%.
[0022] The loose finishing process in this embodiment is as follows: (1) Pretreatment and tension detection: The fabric blank is placed on a special super-feeding fabric feeding device. Before entering the water tank, a non-contact tension sensor is used to detect the warp tension of the fabric blank in real time to ensure that the fabric tension is stable at 4 to 6 N / m (Newtons per meter). This tension is much lower than the fabric tension of traditional loose finishing (usually greater than 10 N / m), which creates the initial conditions for subsequent deep relaxation. (2) Three-stage gradient relaxation treatment: Three-stage gradient relaxation treatment is achieved by a continuous multi-functional water washing and finishing machine that integrates spray penetration, shallow liquid flow oscillation tank and ultrasonic oscillator (low frequency wave generation unit); (3) Precise intermediate drying and micro-control: After the three-stage gradient relaxation treatment, the fabric enters the first drying zone, which is as follows: the dual-channel impact drying is adopted, and the hot air temperature and wind speed are precisely controlled (hot air temperature 80~85℃, wind speed 8~10 m / s) to precisely dry the fabric moisture content to 22~25% (this humidity range is the key window for the subsequent crepe washing to produce ideal texture. Traditional processes usually dry to a lower moisture content or higher temperature); after drying, the fabric is stacked and balanced in a constant temperature and humidity environment (temperature 22±1℃, humidity 65±2%) for 30~40 minutes to make the moisture and internal stress evenly distributed inside the fabric; among them, the weft overfeed rate of the first drying zone is controlled at 5~7% to maintain a relaxed state.
[0023] The three-level gradient relaxation process in this embodiment is as follows: ① First-stage cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage: The fabric passes through the first treatment zone at a speed of 12-15 meters per minute; the first treatment zone does not have a liquid tank, but uses a high-pressure atomizing spray system to evenly spray a low-temperature treatment liquid with a temperature of 18-22℃ and a pH value of 5.0-5.3 (precisely adjusted with citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution) onto the fabric surface; ② Secondary temperature-controlled oscillation relaxation stage: The fabric then enters a shallow liquid flow oscillation tank at 30-35℃. The treatment liquid in the shallow liquid flow oscillation tank has the same formula as the spray liquid in the high-pressure atomization spray system of the primary cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage, with a liquid level depth of 5-8 cm. An ultrasonic oscillator with a frequency of 15-20 Hz and an amplitude of 3-5 mm is installed at the bottom of the shallow liquid flow oscillation tank. The fabric passes gently through the liquid flow under low tension (controlled by an active overfeed roller with an overfeed rate of 8-10%). The oscillation promotes the penetration of the treatment liquid into the fiber interior and induces micro-slippage between fibers, further releasing internal stress. The treatment time is 90-120 seconds. ③ Third-stage humid heat low-tension relaxation stage: After leaving the shallow liquid flow oscillation tank, the fiber is overfed (5-7%) and treated in a low-tension state in an acetic acid and auxiliary agent solution with a pH of 4.5-6.0 and a temperature of 80-98℃. This releases the internal stress of the fiber. The residence time is 70-90 seconds. The humid heat environment promotes the full absorption and swelling of the fiber, and intensifies the movement of molecular chain segments. This solidifies and manifests the relaxation effect accumulated in the first-stage cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage and the second-stage temperature-controlled oscillation relaxation stage on a macroscopic scale. No chemical auxiliary agents are added in the third-stage humid heat low-tension relaxation stage.
[0024] As attached Figure 4 As shown, A. Loose finishing is carried out on a flat washing and scouring machine. The process steps are as follows: 1) The fabric is spread out flat using a split roller; 2) The fabric is washed in the washing area with 0.5 g / L acetic acid (adjusting pH=4.5~5) at room temperature of 20~85℃; 3) The fabric is dried in the drying area at 80℃~85℃, with a drying speed of 10~12 m / min and an overfeed of 5~7%; the moisture content of the fabric after drying is 30%~35%; 4) The fabric is left to stand for 2 hours to allow the internal stress of the fibers to be released to varying degrees, and then it is reintroduced into the flat washing and scouring machine; 5) The fabric is styled using a finishing solution at a temperature of 95℃~98℃ in the scouring area. Note: The concentrations of each auxiliary agent in the finishing solution are: silicone softener 5 g / L~6 g / L, fluffing softener 20 g / L~25 g / L, and soda ash 0.2~0.25 g / L (adjusting pH=5.5~6). 6) Dry at 110℃~120℃, with a drying speed of 5~6 meters / minute and an overfeed of 5~7%; the moisture content of the fabric after drying is 5%~8%.
[0025] The specific process of wrinkle washing and finishing in this embodiment is as follows: (1) Wrinkle initiation stage: Start the main fan to 60% of the rated power, the airflow temperature is 75-78℃, and the exhaust volume is 85%; set the airflow circulation mode to the rotating convection mode so that the fabric can initially form random and fine natural creases under low tension (overfeed rate 3-5%), and the processing time is 4-6 minutes. (2) Texture shaping stage: Increase the power of the main fan to 90% of the rated power, raise the airflow temperature to 88-92℃, and start the three-dimensional airflow guidance system. Through the preset program, make the airflow direction periodically and asymmetrically oscillate in a plane perpendicular to the fabric surface (oscillation frequency 0.1-0.3 Hz, angle ±30°). In the texture shaping stage, the enhanced and directional impact airflow is used to guide the fibers to slip and entangle differently, shaping the fine creases in the wrinkle initiation stage into deeper, more three-dimensional and directional natural textures (such as imitating bark texture, water texture, etc.). Among them, the exhaust volume in the texture shaping stage is adjusted to 95%, and the processing time is 8-10 minutes. (3) Texture setting stage: Keep the airflow temperature at 92-95℃, reduce the power of the main fan to 40% of the rated power, and switch the airflow mode to a gentle surround mode; the purpose of the texture setting stage is to promote the formation of a cross-linking network of elastic catalysts, including imidazoline softener and formic acid bulking agent, at the fiber interface through the action of gentle hot air without destroying the texture structure, while melting the microcapsule wall material and releasing the core material into the fiber microstructure, so as to achieve heat and moisture combined setting of texture; the processing time of the texture setting stage is 5-7 minutes.
[0026] In this embodiment, the water-impregnated padding and drying process is as follows: the washed and finished fabric enters the padding tank with a padding rate of 65-70%, then pre-dries at 105-110°C for 1.5-2.0 minutes, and finally bakes at 150-155°C for 45-60 seconds.
[0027] As attached Figure 5 As shown, B. The crepe finishing process is carried out in the softening washing process, using high-speed airflow (80% main fan, 90% exhaust fan), with an airflow temperature of 85℃ and circulating airflow. An imidazoline-type softener is used to reduce the stiffness of the finished fabric. Formic acid is added as a swelling agent to allow the fibers to fully swell and expand, facilitating the penetration of the finishing agent into the fiber interior and improving fiber accessibility, thus effectively enhancing the fiber's wet elasticity. The fully swollen fabric allows the crosslinking agent to thoroughly penetrate and distribute well before the crosslinking reaction, improving the efficiency of the crosslinking agent and the fabric's wet elasticity. The fabric elasticity increases from 240° to over 305°, maintaining a good style, with a shrinkage rate of around 5%, and a washability rating of 3-4, meeting design requirements.
[0028] As attached Figure 1 , 2 As shown in Figure 3, the yarn in this embodiment is made of wool fiber and high-shrinkage fiber; The high-shrinkage fiber is either polyester yarn (high-shrinkage polyester fiber) or acrylic yarn (high-shrinkage polyacrylonitrile fiber). Preferably, it is a blend of 70% wool fiber and 30% high-shrinkage polyester; or, a blend of 70% wool fiber and 30% high-shrinkage acrylic; or, a three-component blend of 70% wool fiber, 10% acrylic, and 20% polyester. The yarn count range is, for example, from 52s / 1 to 90s / 2, and a low-tension, low-speed, and light-draft carding and spinning process is used to reduce fiber mechanical damage.
[0029] In this embodiment, during the weaving process, the warp and weft yarns are uniformly arranged in a 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B cycle; Among them, yarn A is a low-shrinkage wool yarn, which is machine washable wool with a boiling water shrinkage rate of ≤3%. It is made of 70% wool yarn and 30% polyester yarn, 90s / 2 count, and a twist coefficient of 130. B yarn is made of high-shrinkage polyester yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 35% to 40%, and is made of 300D high-shrinkage polyester filament twisted. C yarn is a double high shrinkage composite yarn, that is, a blend of 70% wool yarn and 30% acrylic yarn, 52s / 1 count, with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30% to 35%, which is a second high shrinkage yarn used to adjust the shrinkage gradient in the transition section.
[0030] In this embodiment, as shown in the appendix Figure 6 As shown, the 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B cycle arrangement has a total pitch of 15 yarns, and the specific segment distribution is as follows: 3 low-shrinkage wool yarns (A) → 2 high-shrinkage polyester yarns (B) → 1 low-shrinkage wool yarn (A) → 3 double high-shrinkage composite yarns (C) → 2 low-shrinkage wool yarns (A) → 4 high-shrinkage polyester yarns (B); The entire fabric is infinitely repeated with a total pitch of 15 yarns, and the warp and weft yarn arrangement ratio of the outer and inner layers is 2:1 (outer layer fine yarn A / C, inner layer coarse yarn B, to meet the principle of not showing the bottom). The double-layer structure is as follows: the outer layer consists of warp and weft yarns arranged in a cyclic pattern of 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B, and the inner layer consists of single-color high-shrinkage polyester yarn (B) arranged in a single direction. The splicing method is a joint splicing, and the splicing points are evenly distributed at the junction of yarn A and yarn C, which is highly concealed.
[0031] This embodiment uses yarns with different heat / wet shrinkage properties (such as high-shrinkage polyester / acrylic fiber and wool) for blending or interweaving. Through clever yarn arrangement design (such as "3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B"), the difference in shrinkage rate of different fibers during the finishing process is used to form regular or random imitation natural textures and uneven granular feel on the fabric surface.
[0032] This embodiment employs a double-layer or interlocking weave. This structure not only increases the fabric's thickness and warmth, and enriches its color gradation, but more importantly, it provides space for yarns with different shrinkage properties, allowing them to more effectively produce the desired three-dimensional texture effect in subsequent finishing processes.
[0033] In this embodiment, the spinning process adopts the principles of "closely spaced needles, small spacing, low speed, small feed rate, and small draft." This "light combing and light drafting" method aims to minimize mechanical damage to wool and functional fibers, protect the natural fluffiness and elasticity of the fibers, and lay the foundation for the excellent hand feel of the final product.
[0034] In this embodiment, considering the significant performance differences between wool and high-shrinkage fibers, the loom parameters are optimized during the weaving process. A low warp tension (e.g., 30-33 cN / head), low machine speed, and small opening are employed, along with techniques such as double-layer reeding to reduce weaving density. This effectively reduces warp breakage, improves weaving efficiency, and ensures the greige fabric has an appropriate shrinkage rate, which is beneficial for subsequent pleating and finishing.
[0035] This embodiment utilizes a loose finishing process performed on a flat washing and boiling machine. The process is carried out under overfeed (5-7%) and low tension conditions, involving acetic acid washing, high-temperature boiling, and baking to fully release the internal stress within the fibers. This process significantly improves the shrinkage rate of the fabric (especially the weft direction) and enhances the bulk and elasticity of the finished product, creating conditions for subsequent crepe finishing.
[0036] This embodiment utilizes a high-speed airflow softening washing machine, employing high-speed airflow, a specific temperature (80–98°C), and auxiliaries (imidazoline-type softener + formic acid bulking agent) to promote fiber swelling and weaken intermolecular forces. Under these conditions, the felting shrinkage characteristics of the wool fibers in the fabric, combined with the internal stress differences between high- and low-shrinkage fibers, drive the fibers to naturally and randomly interweave and creep, thereby forming a stable, natural-looking crepe texture. This process significantly improves the fabric's elasticity (from 240° to over 305°) and controls shrinkage.
[0037] This embodiment transforms worsted wool fabric from the traditional smooth and clean business style to a casual and fashionable style with natural textures and a washed and distressed effect, thus achieving product style diversification.
[0038] This embodiment utilizes a "low tension, light finishing" process throughout the entire process to achieve a unique appearance while better preserving the fluffiness and elasticity of wool fibers. This results in a finished product that is soft and supple to the touch, highly breathable, exhibits excellent elastic elongation, and demonstrates good dimensional stability.
[0039] Compared to the traditional high-energy-consuming finishing methods that rely on "strong ironing and strong steaming", the loose and crepe washing finishing process used in this embodiment focuses more on utilizing the fiber's own characteristics and internal stress, which improves production efficiency and reduces production consumption to a certain extent.
[0040] This embodiment is not a breakthrough in a single technology, but rather an integration and reconstruction of the entire technical route, from the scientific matching of fiber raw materials and the careful design of fabric structure, to the softening treatment of spinning and weaving, and then to the disruptive application of core finishing processes (loose finishing and crepe washing finishing), ultimately achieving multiple improvements in the appearance, feel and comfort of the fabric.
[0041] Example 2: This embodiment provides a natural-looking washed worsted fabric, which is prepared using the method for preparing natural-looking washed worsted fabric as described in Example 1.
[0042] Example 3: This embodiment provides a method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric with an asymmetric variable-pitch yarn arrangement structure, as detailed below: (I) Raw material and yarn preparation: Three types of yarn with different heat shrinkage properties are used for weaving: Yarn A (Low Shrinkage Base Yarn): A blend of machine-washable wool (treated wool, boiling water shrinkage ≤ 3%) and ordinary polyester filament at a ratio of 70% / 30%. Spun on a ring spinning machine at low draft and low speed to produce a 90 Nm / 2 (metric count 90 / 2) combed yarn with a controlled twist coefficient of 130. This yarn serves as the basic framework of the fabric, providing excellent hand feel and dimensional stability.
[0043] Yarn B (High Shrinkage Textured Yarn): High shrinkage polyester filament (300D specification, boiling water shrinkage rate of 35% to 40%) is selected and twisted to a suitable twist degree through a doubling machine to facilitate weaving. This yarn is the main driving force for texture formation.
[0044] Yarn C (gradient transition yarn): This yarn is made by blending wool and high-shrinkage acrylic fibers in a 70% / 30% ratio to produce a single yarn of 52 Nm / L (metric count 52 / 1). Its boiling water shrinkage rate is between that of yarn A and yarn B, ranging from 30% to 35%. This yarn acts as a shrinkage transition bridge, promoting a natural transition of texture and preventing texture breakage caused by excessive shrinkage rate abrupt changes.
[0045] (II) Yarn arrangement and weave structure design, as detailed below. Yarn arrangement: Both warp and weft yarns are arranged in an asymmetrical, variable-pitch, interlaced cyclic pattern in the order of "3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B". This arrangement breaks the traditional equidistant symmetrical pattern and provides a preset internal stress distribution for forming rich, biomimetic three-dimensional textures through the differentiated combination of yarns with different shrinkage properties in density and position.
[0046] Fabric Structure: A double-layer weave structure is adopted. The outer layer uses A, B, and C yarns arranged as described above for both warp and weft, while the inner layer uses high-shrinkage polyester yarn (B yarn) arranged unidirectionally in the same color for both warp and weft. A joint bonding method is used to weave the outer and inner layers together, and the bonding points should be concealed at the junction of "segment A and segment C" in the outer layer arrangement to ensure the integrity of the fabric appearance.
[0047] (III) Weaving Process: Weaving is carried out on a high-performance rapier loom; to ensure smooth weaving and facilitate subsequent crease formation, the following process parameters are adopted: Machine tension: Warp tension should be strictly controlled at 30-33 cN / thread.
[0048] Machine speed and shedding: Use low machine speed and set a small shedding height to reduce warp friction and breakage.
[0049] Weft density: precisely designed according to the fabric style requirements.
[0050] The goal of the loose finishing process used in this embodiment is to fully and evenly release the internal stress accumulated in the yarn (especially high-shrinkage yarn) during spinning and weaving under ultra-low tension and gradient heat and humidity, creating an ideal fiber physical state and microenvironment for subsequent crepe finishing, as detailed below: (1) Pretreatment and tension detection: The woven fabric is placed on a special overfeed fabric feeding device. Before entering the first treatment tank, the warp tension of the fabric is monitored online in real time using a non-contact tension sensor. The closed-loop control system ensures that the fabric tension is kept at an extremely low level of 4 to 6 N / m (usually greater than 10 N / m in traditional processes), creating initial conditions for deep relaxation.
[0051] (2) Three-stage gradient relaxation treatment: carried out in a continuous flat washing and scouring machine integrating spray penetration and oscillating liquid tank units, as follows: First-stage cold-pressing penetration relaxation: The fabric passes through the first zone at a speed of 12–15 meters per minute. This zone uses a high-pressure atomizing spray system to evenly spray a low-temperature treatment solution with a temperature of 18–22°C and a pH of 5.0–5.3 (precisely adjusted using a citric acid–sodium citrate buffer solution) onto the fabric surface. This step aims to gently wet the fabric and promote initial fiber swelling.
[0052] Secondary temperature-controlled oscillation relaxation: The fabric, after cold pressing and penetration, is immediately placed in a shallow liquid flow oscillation tank at a temperature of 30–35°C. The liquid level in the tank is 5–8 cm deep, and an ultrasonic oscillator (frequency 15–20 Hz, amplitude 3–5 mm) is installed at the bottom of the tank. Under the combined action of liquid flow and mechanical oscillation, and with an active overfeed rate of 8–10%, the microscopic slippage between fibers and the release of internal stress are accelerated, with a processing time of 90–120 seconds.
[0053] Three-stage humid heat low-tension relaxation: After leaving the oscillating tank, the fabric is directly immersed in an acetic acid aqueous solution at 80–98℃ and pH 4.5–6.0, and treated in a low-tension state (overfeed rate 5–7%) for 70–90 seconds. No chemical auxiliaries are added in this high-temperature, humid heat environment. The purpose is to fully expand the fibers and intensify molecular chain movement, thereby "solidifying" the relaxation effect of the first two stages into the fiber interior and activating the fiber's shrinkage potential for further crepe washing.
[0054] (3) Precise intermediate drying and micro-control: After gradient relaxation, the fabric enters the first drying zone and is dried using a dual-channel impact drying method. The hot air temperature is strictly controlled at 80-85℃ and the wind speed is 8-10 m / s. The purpose is to precisely dry the fabric moisture content to the "optimal texture window" level of 22-25% (higher than the moisture content after conventional drying). The weft overfeed rate is maintained at 5-7%. After drying, the fabric must be stacked and balanced in a constant temperature and humidity chamber (temperature 22±1℃, humidity 65±2%) for 30-40 minutes to ensure uniform distribution of internal moisture and internal stress.
[0055] The goal of the crepe washing and finishing process used in this embodiment is to utilize the principle of differential shrinkage to induce directional and graded slippage and entanglement of different fibers in a controllable airflow field, thereby transforming internal stress differences into a stable and natural three-dimensional texture on the fabric surface; this process is carried out in a high-speed airflow softening washing machine equipped with a three-dimensional airflow guiding system, as detailed below: Phase 1 (Crinkle Initiation): Start the equipment, set the main fan power to 60% of its rated power, the airflow temperature to 75-78℃, and the exhaust volume to 85%. Select "Rotating Convection" for the airflow circulation mode. Under this mild and irregular airflow environment, the fabric runs at a low tension with an overfeed rate of 3-5% for 4-6 minutes. Under the influence of moisture, heat, and airflow, high- and low-shrinkage fibers begin preliminary, random micro-slippage and curling, forming the initial shape of fine creases.
[0056] Phase Two (Texture Shaping): Increase the main fan power to 90% and raise the airflow temperature to 88–92°C. Simultaneously activate the three-dimensional airflow guidance system, causing the airflow impact direction to oscillate periodically and asymmetrically in a plane perpendicular to the fabric surface according to a preset program (oscillation frequency 0.1–0.3 Hz, oscillation angle ±30°). The enhanced and constantly changing airflow impact force drives the high-shrinkage fibers (B yarn, C yarn) to shrink strongly, and pulls and squeezes the low-shrinkage fibers (A yarn), forcing the initial fine creases to gather, deepen, and recombine, forming a natural-looking texture (such as bark texture) with a specific three-dimensional and directional feel. During this phase, the exhaust volume is adjusted to 95%, and the treatment lasts for 8–10 minutes.
[0057] The third stage (texture setting): Maintain the airflow temperature at 92-95℃, but significantly reduce the main fan power to 40% and switch the airflow mode to "gentle surround". In this gentle environment, process for 5-7 minutes to allow the entanglements formed between fibers to "mature" and be fixed, and the newly generated texture structure tends to be stable, avoiding secondary damage to the structure by strong airflow.
[0058] In this embodiment, the fabric undergoes water immersion and final setting: After the crepe washing process, the fabric is immediately subjected to water immersion and high-temperature setting, as detailed below: Water immersion padding: The fabric enters the water immersion padding tank, and the residual rate is controlled at 65-70%.
[0059] Fabric pre-drying: The fabric is then pre-dried in a drying room at 105-110℃ for 1.5-2.0 minutes.
[0060] Baking: Finally, bake at a high temperature of 150-155℃ for 45-60 seconds to completely release the remaining shrinkage potential of the high-shrinkage fibers and give the texture a permanent memory effect.
[0061] Finally, following the standard process flow, the fabric is brushed, sheared, ironed, steamed, oiled, and steamed again to complete the final shaping.
[0062] The finished product's effects and performance in this embodiment: Appearance: The fabric features a rich, three-dimensional, and naturally distributed asymmetrical biomimetic texture, creating a dynamic and vintage visual effect.
[0063] Hand feel and physical properties: The fabric has a fluffy, lively, and highly elastic feel. Testing shows that its weft elongation can reach over 45.1%, and its weft shrinkage rate is stably controlled at around 5.6%. The texture remains clear even after multiple washes.
[0064] Differences and effects compared to existing technologies: The core breakthrough of this embodiment lies in combining innovative "gradient relaxation" with "programmed airflow creping." Compared to traditional creping technologies that rely solely on high temperature, high humidity, and high-speed airflow, this embodiment, through precise internal stress release control in the early stages (extremely low tension, gradient temperature, and ultrasonic oscillation), lays a predictable physical foundation for the precise induction of texture in the later stages. The three-dimensional dynamic airflow field in the middle stage can be regarded as a kind of "fabric fluid programming," which can dynamically guide shrinkage according to a preset pattern, thereby making the final texture go from random to semi-directional and highly realistic, solving the problems of poor repeatability and uncontrollability of traditional natural texture imitations.
[0065] Example 4: This embodiment provides a method for preparing a gradient-fiber composite interwoven fabric with a natural washed style. The aim is to design a yarn arrangement consisting of three interwoven components containing fibers with differentiated dyeing properties and moisture absorption and swelling characteristics, combined with a precisely controlled gradient relaxation and pulsed airflow crepe washing process, to achieve a natural washed worsted fabric with multi-color gradient visual layers and a three-dimensional velvety feel.
[0066] Building upon Example 3, this example incorporates the principle of "differentiated hygroscopic swelling and dyeing properties of fibers." By embedding specific types of fibers (such as cationic modified polyester and ordinary polyester) during weaving, these fibers, due to differences in hygroscopic swelling rates and the combined effects of acidic and alkaline environments during finishing processes such as humid heat, acidic environments, and creping, not only undergo differential physical shrinkage but also trigger local dye redistribution or changes in color development, affecting the napping effect. This results in a composite creation of multiple distressed natural appearances in a single molding process, characterized by "color gradation, three-dimensional texture, and micro-fluffy feel."
[0067] The specific technical solution of this embodiment is as follows: (I) Yarn design and preparation, as detailed below: Yarn D (low shrinkage / hydrophilic colorfast base yarn): Raw materials: 90% machine washable wool + 10% Lyocell fiber.
[0068] Specifications: Spun into a worsted yarn of 84 Nm / 2 using the Siro compact spinning process. The addition of Lyocell is designed to provide excellent wet recovery and increase the hydrophilicity and dye uptake of the substrate.
[0069] Pretreatment: This yarn is pre-dyed with reactive dyes (such as medium gray) as the base color of the fabric.
[0070] Yarn E (High Shrinkage / Acid-Based Color-Developing Yarn): Raw material: 100% cationic dyeable modified high-shrinkage polyester with a boiling water shrinkage rate (dry heat) ≥35%. This fiber has a high affinity for specific types of disperse dyes and cationic dyes, and its dyeing performance is affected by pH value.
[0071] Specifications: spun into a pure yarn of 60Nm / 1.
[0072] Pretreatment: This yarn is pre-dyed or solution-dyed with a disperse dye or cationic dye of the same color family as yarn D but in a darker shade (such as dark gray). Under acidic and humid conditions, it will partially peel or change color.
[0073] Yarn F (high shrinkage / low swelling napping yarn): Raw materials: 100% conventional high-shrinkage polyester (similar to yarn B in Example 1, with a boiling water shrinkage rate of ≥35%). This polyester yarn is not dyed and retains its natural color (white). Its surface structure is slightly treated with alkali reduction, making it easier to produce a micro-pilling effect during washing.
[0074] (II) Yarn Arrangement and Structure Design: To create a rich and directional composite texture, the warp and weft yarns are arranged in an asymmetrical and guiding manner. Warp arrangement: All yarns follow a 3F~1D~3F~1E~3F~1D~4F~1E cycle. Among them, yarn F (white high-shrinkage polyester) serves as the spacing and texture skeleton, while yarns D and E serve as visual guides for color development.
[0075] Weft yarn arrangement: 4D~1E~2F~1E~4D~2E~1F cycle. This arrangement is dominated by D yarn, with E and F yarns interspersed.
[0076] Fabric structure: In the bonding structure between the outer and inner layers, the use of longer floats such as variable twill (e.g., a combination of 4 / 1 and 1 / 4) is beneficial for creating a more directional texture and velvety feel in the finishing process.
[0077] (III) Process Flow: Within the framework of the original document's overall process flow (raw repair → loose finishing → ... → crepe washing and finishing → ...), this embodiment is specifically optimized: ① Enhanced Gradient Acidic Loose Finishing: The three-stage gradient relaxation process (low-tension fabric feeding, cold pressing and penetration, temperature-controlled oscillation, wet-heat relaxation, precise temperature-controlled drying and stacking) is retained, but key adjustments are made to the treatment solution formulation. Pretreatment Adjustment: In a citric acid-acetic acid composite buffer solution with a pH of 4.5–5.0, 3–5 g / L of scouring agent and 2.0–2.5 g / L of bentonite-based slow-release finishing agent are added. This slow-release finishing agent forms a microfilm on the fiber surface in the later stages of loose finishing (the third-stage wet-heat stage), which can be locally washed away during subsequent creping, creating conditions for the formation of a nap and localized color differences. Gradient relaxation parameter adjustment: While maintaining the temperature range of 80-98℃ for the three-stage moist heat relaxation, the heating rate is changed from fast to slow (for example, from increasing by 5℃ per minute to increasing by 2℃ per minute), and the temperature is kept at 50℃ and 75℃ for 2-3 minutes each to better promote the differences in moisture absorption and swelling of different fibers.
[0078] ② Innovative Pulsed Directional Airflow Crepe Finishing: This embodiment introduces the concepts of "pulsed" airflow impact and "directional impact zone" based on the three-stage crepe finishing method (crepe initiation, texture shaping, and texture setting) described in Embodiment 3.
[0079] Equipment customization requirements: The high-speed airflow softening washing machine must have the ability to independently control temperature and airflow in different areas and the function of programmed pulse blowing, and set up three airflow impact zones of high intensity, medium intensity and weak intensity along the length of the machine.
[0080] Crepe washing process steps: Phase 1: Overall Relaxation and Initial Activation (Gentle Convection Across the Entire Area + Slow Cooling Pulses) Airflow mode: The airflow of the whole machine adopts the "mild convection" mode, with the main fan power at 45%, the airflow temperature at 70-75℃, and the exhaust volume at 80-85%.
[0081] Pulse program: Every 120 seconds, the main fan power is momentarily (lasting 10 seconds) increased to 70% and then restored, forming a cooling-impact-rebound cycle, which initially activates the fiber activity and introduces a weak, non-directional texture.
[0082] Fabric moisture content: The moisture content of the fabric entering this stage should be maintained at 20-25% to facilitate wet plasticity.
[0083] Processing time: 6-8 minutes.
[0084] Phase Two: Directional Texture Shaping and Color Development Induction (Independent Zone Control + Mid-Frequency Pulse) This stage is the core of this embodiment. The crepe washing zone through which the fabric passes is divided into the front section, the middle section, and the rear section, which are respectively set as high, medium, and low intensity airflow impact zones.
[0085] In the high-intensity zone, the airflow mode is switched to "directional vortex impact," with fan power at 90-95%, temperature at 85-88℃, and pulse frequency increased to once every 30-40 seconds, with an impact duration of 8-10 seconds. This primarily involves strong rubbing and squeezing of yarns E and F, stimulating color migration in yarn E and slight napping in yarn F. Medium Intensity Zone: Airflow mode is "Rotating Impact", fan power is 80%, temperature is 82-85℃, and pulse frequency is once every 60 seconds. Its main function is to continue the effect of the previous zone and provide a transition, forming the primary and secondary textures.
[0086] Low-intensity zone: The airflow mode is "slow convection", the fan power is 50-55%, the temperature is 78-80℃, there is no forced pulse, and the texture is consolidated by gentle airflow to form the final natural transition.
[0087] During this stage, an acidic environment is maintained throughout (with continuous injection of steam containing trace amounts of organic acids), which causes controlled color changes in the cationic dyed E yarn and the migration of some dyes to the adjacent D and F yarns, producing an antique "fading" or "bleeding" effect.
[0088] Phase 3: Texture stabilization and velvet feel enhancement (full-area "constant pressure surround" + low-frequency thermal shock pulse), as follows: Airflow mode: uniformly adjusted to "constant pressure surround", main fan power 55%, airflow temperature rises to 95-98℃.
[0089] Pulse program: Every 300 seconds, the fan power drops to 30% instantaneously (lasting 15 seconds), and the temperature rises briefly by 2-3°C, creating a thermal shock to help the micro-fluff at the end of the F yarn (high-shrinkage white polyester) to be fully dried and stretched, and to stabilize the color effect of the E and D yarns.
[0090] Processing time: 8-10 minutes.
[0091] The effects and features of this embodiment are as follows: Visual appearance: The fabric surface presents a directional, irregular flowing water or marble-like texture. Its texture is not simply uneven, but simultaneously has a gradient effect of varying shades and a slightly whitish velvety visual appearance, mimicking the composite appearance after years of natural wear and tear, sun exposure and water immersion.
[0092] Hand feel and style: Based on the delicate and smooth feel of the finely spun fabric, it combines a moderate velvety and soft feel, making the touch more rich.
[0093] Structural stability: Warp elongation ≥12%, weft elongation ≥48%, after washing (GB / T8629~2017 Procedure 9A 3 times), the appearance flatness is grade 4, the dimensional change is (~3% to +1%), and the structure is stable.
[0094] This embodiment combines three types of fibers / yarns with different shrinkage rates, different dyeability (conventional dyes and cationic dyes), and different hygroscopic swelling properties through a designed arrangement, providing a physicochemical basis for the simultaneous generation of multiple appearance effects.
[0095] This embodiment deeply couples the original "loose finishing" and "crepe finishing" technologies. A "slow-release finishing agent" is added to the loose finishing process to prepare for subsequent steps; the crepe finishing process introduces an "acidic catalytic color-developing environment" and "programmed pulsed airflow and zone control," achieving simultaneous processing in three dimensions: "physical texture shaping," "visual color transfer," and "surface texture napping," resulting in high production efficiency and unique effects.
[0096] Process parameter innovation: Specific, quantifiable, and repeatable combinations of parameters, such as "pulse airflow" (high→low→high) and "gradient temperature shock," are defined, rather than relying solely on equipment or experience for "high-speed airflow shock." This programmable process is more controllable, novel, and original.
[0097] In summary, this embodiment further develops upon the principles of the original technical disclosure, expanding from the creation of a single texture to the creation of a composite style integrating "texture, color, and velvet feel," while also making the process more controllable and creating greater technical barriers.
[0098] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention, and not to limit them; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that modifications can still be made to the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments, or equivalent substitutions can be made to some or all of the technical features; and these modifications or substitutions do not cause the essence of the corresponding technical solutions to deviate from the scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric, characterized in that, The specific preparation method is as follows: Raw material selection and spinning: Yarns with different heat and / or wet shrinkage properties are interwoven or blended. The interwoven or blended yarns are woven using a carding and spinning process with low tension, low speed and light draft. Weaving: Weaving is carried out using a double-layer structure or a front-and-back joint structure. The warp and weft yarns with different shrinkage properties are arranged in an asymmetrical variable-pitch interlaced yarn arrangement design, and the double-layer reed technology is combined to reduce the weaving density and sheath height. At the same time, low-tension weaving is used to ensure weaving efficiency and reduce yarn breakage. Dyeing and finishing: Raw trimming → Loose finishing → Brushing 1 → Singeing → Flat washing and boiling → Drying → Intermediate inspection → Finishing → Crepe washing and finishing → Soaking and drying in clean water → Brushing 2 → Shearing → Ironing 1 → Steaming 1 → Ironing 2 → Applying oil → Steaming 2; The loose finishing process is carried out on a flat washing and boiling machine. Specifically, it involves overfeeding and low tension, and treatment in an acetic acid and auxiliary agent solution at pH 4.5–6.0 and temperature 80–98°C to release the internal stress of the fiber, followed by high-temperature baking. The crepe finishing process is carried out in a high-speed airflow softening washing machine. Specifically, high-speed airflow and temperature are used in combination with imidazoline-type softeners and formic acid bulking agents to promote fiber swelling and weaken the intermolecular forces. Under the combined effect of the internal stress difference between high-shrinkage limit and low-shrinkage fibers and the felting characteristics of wool, the greige fabric produces a natural and random wrinkled effect. Then, the natural appearance is permanently fixed by subsequent high-temperature setting.
2. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of loose finishing is as follows: Pretreatment and tension detection: The fabric blank is placed on a special super-feed fabric feeding device. Before entering the water tank, a non-contact tension sensor is used to detect the warp tension of the fabric blank in real time to ensure that the fabric tension is stable at 4 to 6 N / m. Three-stage gradient relaxation treatment: A three-stage gradient relaxation treatment is achieved through a continuous multi-functional water washing and finishing machine that integrates spray penetration, shallow liquid flow oscillation tank and ultrasonic oscillator; Precise intermediate drying and micro-control: After undergoing a three-stage gradient relaxation process, the fabric enters the first drying zone, which employs a dual-airflow impact drying method to precisely control the hot air temperature and speed, drying the fabric's moisture content to 22-25%. After drying, the fabric is stacked and balanced in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 30-40 minutes to ensure that moisture and internal stress are evenly distributed within the fabric. The weft overfeed rate in the first drying zone is controlled at 5-7% to maintain a relaxed state.
3. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that, The three-level gradient relaxation process is as follows: First-stage cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage: The fabric passes through the first treatment zone at a speed of 12-15 meters per minute; the first treatment zone does not have a liquid tank, but uses a high-pressure atomizing spray system to evenly spray a low-temperature treatment liquid with a temperature of 18-22℃ and a pH value of 5.0-5.3 onto the fabric surface; Secondary temperature-controlled oscillation relaxation stage: The fabric is then placed in a shallow liquid flow oscillation tank at 30-35℃. The treatment liquid in the shallow liquid flow oscillation tank has the same formula as the spray liquid in the high-pressure atomization spray system of the primary cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage, with a liquid level depth of 5-8 cm. An ultrasonic oscillator with a frequency of 15-20 Hz and an amplitude of 3-5 mm is installed at the bottom of the shallow liquid flow oscillation tank. The fabric passes gently through the liquid flow under low tension, and the oscillation promotes the penetration of the treatment liquid into the fiber interior and induces micro-slippage between fibers, further releasing internal stress. The treatment time is 90-120 seconds. The third-stage humid heat low-tension relaxation stage: After leaving the shallow flow oscillation tank, the fiber is treated in an acetic acid and auxiliary agent solution with a pH of 4.5-6.0 and a temperature of 80-98℃ under overfeed and low-tension conditions. This releases the internal stress of the fiber and the residence time is 70-90 seconds. The humid heat environment promotes the full absorption and swelling of the fiber and intensifies the movement of molecular chain segments. This solidifies and manifests the relaxation effect accumulated in the first-stage cold-pressing penetration relaxation stage and the second-stage temperature-controlled oscillation relaxation stage on a macroscopic scale. No chemical auxiliary agents are added in the third-stage humid heat low-tension relaxation stage.
4. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The specific process of Zou Xi finishing is as follows: Wrinkle initiation stage: Start the main fan to 60% of the rated power, the airflow temperature is 75-78℃, and the exhaust volume is 85%; set the airflow circulation mode to the rotating convection mode, so that the fabric can initially form random and fine natural creases under low tension, and the processing time is 4-6 minutes. Texture shaping stage: Increase the power of the main fan to 90% of the rated power, raise the airflow temperature to 88-92℃, and at the same time start the three-dimensional airflow guidance system to make the airflow direction oscillate periodically and asymmetrically in a plane perpendicular to the fabric surface; among them, the exhaust volume is adjusted to 95% and the processing time is 8-10 minutes. Texture setting stage: Maintain airflow temperature at 92-95℃, reduce main fan power to 40% of rated power, and switch airflow mode to gentle surround mode; the processing time for the texture setting stage is 5-7 minutes.
5. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The process of drying the clean water-impregnated fabric is as follows: the washed and finished fabric enters the impregnation tank with a padding rate of 65-70%, then pre-dries at 105-110℃ for 1.5-2.0 minutes, and finally bakes at 150-155℃ for 45-60 seconds.
6. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn is made of wool fibers and high-shrinkage fibers; The high-shrinkage fiber is made of polyester yarn or acrylic yarn.
7. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 1 or 6, characterized in that, The blending situation is as follows: The blend consists of 70% wool fiber and 30% high-shrinkage polyester. The blend consists of 70% wool fiber and 30% high-shrinkage acrylic fiber. It is a three-component blend of 70% wool fiber, 10% acrylic fiber, and 20% polyester fiber.
8. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, During the weaving process, the warp and weft yarns are uniformly arranged in a 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B cycle; Among them, yarn A is a low-shrinkage wool yarn, which is machine washable wool with a boiling water shrinkage rate of ≤3%. It is made of 70% wool yarn and 30% polyester yarn, 90s / 2 count, and twist coefficient of 130. B yarn is made of high-shrinkage polyester yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 35% to 40%, and is made of 300D high-shrinkage polyester filament twisted. C yarn is a double high shrinkage composite yarn, that is, a blend of 70% wool yarn and 30% acrylic yarn, 52s / 1 count, with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30% to 35%, which is a second high shrinkage yarn used to adjust the shrinkage gradient in the transition section.
9. The method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that, The 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B cycle arrangement has a total pitch of 15 yarns, and the specific segment distribution is as follows: 3 low-shrinkage wool yarns → 2 high-shrinkage polyester yarns → 1 low-shrinkage wool yarn → 3 double high-shrinkage composite yarns → 2 low-shrinkage wool yarns → 4 high-shrinkage polyester yarns. The entire fabric is infinitely repeated with a total pitch of 15 yarns, and the ratio of warp to weft yarns is 2:
1. The double-layer structure is as follows: the outer layer consists of warp and weft yarns arranged in a cyclic pattern of 3A~2B~1A~3C~2A~4B, and the inner layer consists of single-color high-shrinkage polyester yarn arranged in one direction. The splicing method is a joint splicing, and the splicing points are evenly distributed at the junction of A yarn and C yarn, which has strong concealment.
10. A natural-looking washed worsted fabric, characterized in that, It is prepared using the method for preparing a natural-looking washed worsted fabric as described in any one of claims 1 to 9.