A linen-like yarn and a method for manufacturing the same and a linen-like fabric
By using specific blending ratios and spinning processes, combined with techniques such as low-density short fibers and gentle combing, we have produced imitation linen yarns and fabrics with random coarse and fine textures in appearance. This solves the problem of incomplete appearance and performance of existing imitation linen textiles and achieves a high degree of simulation.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- DONGHUA UNIV
- Filing Date
- 2026-05-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing imitation linen textiles cannot simultaneously possess the appearance characteristics and inherent performance advantages of natural linen textiles. Current methods mainly imitate appearance or performance individually, making it difficult to achieve comprehensive simulation.
By using a specific blend ratio of moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, longer fibers and shorter chemical fibers, and through processes such as low-row short-fiber combing, gentle combing, and pressure-free stretching, a linen-like yarn with random coarse and fine textures is formed, and then linen-like fabric is made by ring spinning.
It achieves a high degree of simulation in appearance and performance of imitation linen yarn and fabric, with natural rough texture, good moisture absorption and wicking properties, quick drying, coolness, and stiffness, which is close to the effect of natural linen textiles.
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Figure CN122279820A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and in particular to a linen-like yarn, its preparation method, and linen-like fabric. Background Technology
[0002] Natural linen textiles are popular with consumers due to their rugged, crisp, and unique natural texture, as well as their excellent moisture-wicking, quick-drying, and breathable properties. However, linen textiles also have drawbacks, including high raw material costs, easy wrinkling, poor dyeability, and itchiness when worn close to the skin. Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop linen-like textiles that possess the appearance and excellent properties of natural linen while overcoming its inherent shortcomings.
[0003] Currently, imitation linen textiles mainly include: (1) filaments with irregular thick and thin sections on the surface of linen yarn and the fabrics made therefrom, such as invention patent CN 106435781 A and utility model patent CN201220486484.1, which use special spinning processes to produce filaments of uneven thickness to imitate linen yarn. However, the surface of the filaments is smooth, the fabrics made from them have a small coverage coefficient, do not have the full appearance of linen fabrics, and do not have the functional advantages of linen yarn. (2) Short-fiber yarns and fabrics with the appearance of linen yarn, such as patent CN 113529229 B which imitates the color of linen textiles by dyeing cotton fibers; another example is invention patent CN 112011873 A which creates an uneven thickness effect by grooving the surface of the rubber roller of the spinning drafting device, but the unevenness created by this method is periodic and cannot present the natural and random thick and thin effect of linen yarn; another example is patent CN 115772724 A which embeds oily glue dots in the accumulation groove of the spinning cup of the rotor spinning machine to destroy the fiber distribution and make the yarn have an uneven thickness appearance. Because the position of the oily glue dots is fixed, the thick and thin parts formed also have a certain periodicity. Another example is patent CN 106835415 A and CN 108660573 B which use very short (3-10 mm) fibers mixed with conventional cotton fibers, but the yarn produced by this method has too short a length for the thick and thin parts, and the imitation linen effect is not good. (3) Chemical fiber fabrics with the properties of linen. For example, utility model patent CN 218140281 U uses existing linen-like yarn to make a multi-layered fabric. By designing the distribution of water-wicking and water-repellent fabrics, the moisture-wicking function of linen is achieved. However, such a method is difficult to process, the fabric structure is complex, and it is difficult to imitate the appearance characteristics of linen fabric.
[0004] Therefore, existing methods for manufacturing imitation linen yarns and fabrics are insufficient to produce imitation linen textiles that simultaneously possess the appearance and intrinsic performance advantages of linen textiles; they can essentially only achieve imitation of appearance or simulation of performance alone. Thus, new methods are needed to produce imitation linen textiles that combine the appearance and performance advantages of linen textiles. Summary of the Invention
[0005] In view of this, the present invention mainly utilizes existing equipment and specific raw material combinations and spinning methods to spin four chemical fibers with significantly different lengths (generally considered impossible to mix and spin) into a linen-like yarn with a randomly distributed coarse and fine texture, good moisture absorption and wicking properties, quick drying, coolness, and stiffness. This yarn is then used to weave a linen-like chemical fiber fabric that combines the natural, rough texture of linen with excellent moisture absorption and wicking properties, and a crisp, dry feel. This solves the problem that existing linen-like textiles do not fully replicate the appearance of linen and cannot simultaneously possess both the appearance characteristics and inherent performance advantages of linen. Therefore, the present invention provides a linen-like yarn, its preparation method, and a linen-like fabric.
[0006] Specifically, the first aspect of this invention provides a method for preparing linen-like yarn, comprising: Raw material selection: The mixture consists of 25-40 wt% moisture-wicking fibers, 25-40 wt% cooling fibers, 15-20 wt% longer fibers, and 5-15 wt% shorter chemical fibers, wherein the length of the longer chemical fibers is 30-60 mm and the length of the shorter chemical fibers is 10-25 mm. Blended sliver: Moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers and shorter chemical fibers are mixed and then mixed opening and combing are performed to obtain blended sliver; Spinning longer fiber slivers: Longer chemical fibers are subjected to long fiber opening and long fiber carding treatments to obtain longer fiber slivers; Spinning imitation linen yarn: The blended sliver and the longer fiber sliver are sequentially processed by drawing, roving and spinning to obtain imitation linen yarn; wherein, the drawing process includes the step of sliver blending of the blended sliver and the longer fiber sliver.
[0007] Furthermore, the moisture-wicking fiber has a length of 30-38 mm and a linear density of 1.5-2.5D, the cooling fiber has a length of 30-38 mm and a linear density of 1.5-2.5D, the longer chemical fiber has a length of 40-51 mm and a linear density of 2.0-3.0D, and the shorter chemical fiber has a length of 20-25 mm and a linear density of 1.5-3.0D. This configuration can improve the spinnability of the chemical fiber raw materials and make the obtained chemical fiber imitation linen yarn have random coarseness and fineness, and the mechanical properties and yarn appearance are close to those of natural linen yarn. This further makes the mechanical properties and appearance of the final imitation linen fabric close to those of natural linen textiles.
[0008] Furthermore, during the spinning of the blended sliver, the process parameters for the mixed carding treatment include: a flatbed linear speed of 0-80 mm / min, a flatbed carding cloth needle height of 6-7.5 mm, and a gap of 0.2-0.4 mm between the upper front cover and the cylinder. This "low-discharge short fiber" carding process, which uses a low flatbed speed, a tight gap between the upper front cover and the cylinder, and a closed small-diameter bottom under the licker-in roller, reduces the amount of short fibers removed by the carding machine and allows for smooth carding while minimizing the loss of shorter chemical fibers.
[0009] Furthermore, in the process of spinning longer fiber slivers, the process parameters for the long fiber combing treatment include: the five-point spacing of the cylinder-cover carding is 0.2-0.3 mm, 0.18-0.28 mm, 0.15-0.25 mm, 0.15-0.25 mm, and 0.18-0.28 mm, respectively; the licker-in speed is 600-750 r / min; and the cylinder speed is 260-340 r / min. This "gentle combing" process setting with large spacing and low speed can reduce damage to longer chemical fibers.
[0010] Furthermore, in the process of spinning the imitation linen yarn, the drawing process includes: mixing the blended sliver and the longer fiber sliver, drawing 3-4 times, using pressure-free drafting, with the center distance between the rollers in the front drafting zone being 50-55 mm and the center distance between the rollers in the back drafting zone being 55-60 mm; thus, through the "gentle control" of drafting with pressure-free drafting and large spacing, the unevenness of the sliver is artificially created by taking advantage of the movement differences of fibers of different lengths during drafting, resulting in a random thick-thickness effect in the final yarn appearance.
[0011] Furthermore, in the process of spinning the imitation linen yarn, the process parameters for the roving treatment include: the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 55-60 mm, the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 60-65 mm, the chute depth is 2-2.5 mm, and the twist coefficient is 100-130. This setting not only avoids the longer chemical fibers from being broken during the drafting process, but also increases the grip of the yarn on the shorter chemical fibers, thereby increasing the control over the movement of the shorter chemical fibers.
[0012] Furthermore, in the process of spinning the imitation linen yarn, ring spinning is used for the yarn processing, and the parameters of the ring spinning method include: the center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 55-60 mm, the center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 60-65 mm, the depth of the chute is 1.5-2 mm, and the twist coefficient is 500-600. In this way, the longer chemical fibers are prevented from being broken during the drafting process in the yarn processing, and the yarn has high stiffness and a smooth hand feel.
[0013] A second aspect of the present invention provides a linen-like yarn prepared by the above-described preparation method, wherein the various properties and appearance of the linen-like yarn are close to those of natural linen yarn.
[0014] A third aspect of this invention provides a linen-like yarn, spun from the following raw materials: 25-40 wt% moisture-wicking fibers, 25-40 wt% cooling fibers, 15-20 wt% longer chemical fibers, and 5-15 wt% shorter chemical fibers, wherein the longer chemical fibers have a length of 30-60 mm and the shorter chemical fibers have a length of 10-25 mm. This linen-like yarn, made from chemical fibers, is not only low-cost but also possesses excellent moisture absorption and wicking properties, is easy to dry, cool, and has a crisp texture, with an appearance similar to natural linen.
[0015] The fourth aspect of the present invention provides a linen-like fabric, which is woven or knitted from the above-mentioned linen-like yarn; such that the linen-like fabric has both the natural rough texture of linen fabric and the excellent moisture absorption and wicking properties, as well as the stiff and crisp feel.
[0016] Therefore, the technical solution provided by this invention, based on existing technology, combines moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, a small amount of longer chemical fibers, and a small amount of shorter chemical fibers. It employs opening, cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, and spinning processes to address the differences in fiber lengths and the requirements of linen imitation. In particular, during the opening and carding processes, the mixed fibers of moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, and shorter chemical fibers solve the problem that shorter chemical fibers cannot be carded individually due to their short length. Simultaneously, during the drawing process, blended slivers and longer fiber slivers are mixed in a specific ratio. Through the coordination of these process steps, the yarn achieves a naturally randomly distributed texture with varying thicknesses while also possessing moisture-wicking, quick-drying, cool, and stiff properties. Consequently, the linen-like fabric made from this linen-like yarn combines the natural, rugged texture of linen with excellent moisture absorption and wicking properties, and a crisp, sturdy feel. Compared to traditional linen imitation methods, the linen-like yarn and fabric produced by this invention have a more pronounced linen-like effect in both appearance and internal properties. Attached Figure Description
[0017] Figure 1 This is a physical image of the imitation linen woven fabric provided in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.
[0018] Figure 2 This is a simulation diagram of fine yarn provided in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.
[0019] Figure 3 This is a simulation diagram of the imitation linen electronic blackboard provided in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.
[0020] Figure 4 This is a simulation diagram of the machine-woven imitation linen fabric provided in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.
[0021] Figure 5 This is a physical image of the imitation linen woven fabric provided in Embodiment 4 of the present invention.
[0022] Figure 6 This is a picture of the actual ramie woven fabric provided in Comparative Example 1.
[0023] Figure 7 This is a simulation diagram of fine yarn provided in Comparative Example 2.
[0024] Figure 8 This is a simulation diagram of the imitation linen electronic blackboard provided in Comparative Example 2.
[0025] Figure 9 This is a simulation diagram of the machine-woven imitation linen fabric provided in Comparative Example 2.
[0026] Figure 10 The image shown is of the actual imitation linen fabric provided in Comparative Example 2.
[0027] Figure 11 This is a simulation diagram of fine yarn provided in Comparative Example 4.
[0028] Figure 12 This is a simulation diagram of the linen-like electronic blackboard provided in Comparative Example 4.
[0029] Figure 13 This is a simulation diagram of fine yarn provided in Comparative Example 5.
[0030] Figure 14 This is a simulation diagram of the linen-like electronic blackboard provided in Scale 5. Detailed Implementation
[0031] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the embodiments of the present invention.
[0032] To address the shortcomings of existing linen-like textiles, which fail to achieve a comprehensive linen-like effect while simultaneously possessing the advantages of linen's appearance and inherent properties, and require specialized equipment, this invention utilizes existing equipment and a unique combination of four raw materials with significant length differences, along with spinning methods. The process includes raw material selection, cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, spinning, and weaving. Specifically, for the mixture of moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, and shorter chemical fibers, a "low-row short fiber" carding process is employed. This involves using a closed bottom, low cover plate speed, low cover plate needle height, and a tight upper cover plate-cylinder spacing to minimize the loss of shorter chemical fibers. For longer chemical fibers, a "gentle carding" process is used, employing a large carding spacing and low carding speed to reduce damage. In the drawing, roving, and spinning processes, a "gentle control" drafting process without pressure bars and chutes is used. By leveraging the differences in drafting motion of fibers of different lengths, a random thick-thin effect is created on the final yarn. A high twist coefficient is also employed to achieve high yarn stiffness and a smooth, linen-like feel. Therefore, by combining the above series of processes, a highly realistic linen-like effect is achieved in both appearance and function. Linen-like fabrics woven from this linen-like yarn correspondingly possess a highly realistic linen-like fabric effect. The present invention specifically adopts the following embodiments: A method for preparing linen-like yarn, utilizing existing equipment, includes the following processes: raw material selection, carding and cleaning, drawing, roving, and spinning. The specific details of each process are as follows: In the selection of raw materials, moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, longer chemical fibers, and shorter chemical fibers are chosen. The moisture-wicking fibers are chemical fibers with moisture-wicking properties, using high-stiffness fibers to mimic the rigidity of hemp fibers, so that the mechanical properties of the final product are close to those of hemp textiles. The material can be, but is not limited to, polyester fibers, with a length of 30-38 mm and a relatively coarse linear density of 1.5-2.5D. The cooling fibers are chemical fibers with a cooling sensation, also using high-stiffness fibers. The material can be, but is not limited to, polyester fibers, with a length of 30-38 mm and a relatively coarse linear density of 1.5-2.5D. The same length and linear density as the moisture-wicking fibers are preferred to improve the spinnability of the raw materials.
[0033] The longer and shorter chemical fibers are preferably cellulose fibers with good moisture absorption and relative softness, such as viscose fibers, which can further enhance the moisture absorption of the yarn and fabric and reduce itching. The difference in fiber length leads to differences in their movement during drafting, creating an irregular texture effect in the yarn's appearance. The longer chemical fibers can be 30-60 mm long, preferably 40-51 mm, with a linear density of 2.0-3.0D; the shorter chemical fibers can be 10-25 mm long, preferably 15-25 mm, with a linear density of 1.0-2.0D.
[0034] Preferably, the blending ratio of the moisture-wicking fiber is 25-40 wt%, and the blending ratio of the cooling fiber is 25-40 wt%, ensuring a relatively large proportion of these two functional fibers to guarantee that the yarn combines the advantages of both fibers in terms of moisture absorption, quick drying, and coolness. The blending ratio of the longer chemical fibers is 15-20 wt%, and the blending ratio of the shorter chemical fibers is 5-15 wt%, ensuring a relatively small proportion of these two fibers with significant length differences to guarantee a smooth spinning process while creating a yarn appearance with random thickness variations.
[0035] This invention mainly adopts the invention patent "Method for Predicting the Mixing Uniformity of Fibers in Yarn by Computer Simulation of Blending Process (ZL 202110557433.7)" and the methods for simulating fiber drafting motion in the papers "Fiber Arrangement and Motion Simulation in the Preparation Process Before Combing" and "Study on Fiber Motion in the Drafting Zone" to simulate the drawing process, roving drafting, and yarn drafting process, so as to determine the range of the length and blending ratio of the above four chemical fibers.
[0036] Extensive drafting simulations were performed on a computer using different parameters such as drafting spacing in drawing, roving, and spinning processes. This yielded fiber distribution and yarn-fabric images in the spinning process, allowing for the determination of drafting parameters during these processes. When the lengths of the longer and shorter chemical fibers, the mixing ratios of the raw materials, and the drafting process parameters were appropriate, the fibers were unevenly distributed on the yarn, creating an irregular coarse and fine texture, achieving a highly linen-like appearance. Conversely, when the fiber lengths, mixing ratios, and drafting parameters exceeded a certain range, the yarn surface did not exhibit a noticeable coarse and fine texture effect.
[0037] The cleaning and combing process is a combination of opening and cleaning, and combing. This process consists of two processing lines: one spinning blended slivers and the other spinning longer fiber slivers. The processing line spinning the blended slivers allows the shorter chemical fibers to be smoothly combed, supported by two types of appropriately sized moisture-wicking and cooling fibers, thus solving the problem that the shorter chemical fibers cannot be combed individually due to their short length. Specifically, in the carding process of spinning the blended sliver, in order to prevent excessive removal of the shorter chemical fibers during carding, a "low-displacement short fiber" carding process is adopted, which involves a low speed of the cover plate, a tight gap between the upper front cover plate and the cylinder, and a closed small vent installed below the licker-in roller. That is, the cover plate speed is a low linear speed of 10-80 mm / min (80-240 mm for conventional chemical fibers), the cover plate card cloth has a low needle height of 6-7.5 mm, and the upper front cover plate and the cylinder have a tight gap of 0.2-0.4 mm (0.4-0.8 mm for conventional chemical fibers). This effectively reduces the removal of short fibers during carding and ensures that the yarn has a significant coarse and fine detail effect.
[0038] Because the longer chemical fibers are easily broken during carding, in one embodiment, a "gentle carding" process with large spacing and low speed is used in the carding process to obtain the longer fiber sliver to reduce fiber damage. Specifically, a larger cylinder-flat carding spacing is used, with five-point spacings of 0.2-0.3 mm, 0.18-0.28 mm, 0.15-0.25 mm, 0.15-0.25 mm, and 0.18-0.28 mm, respectively, and a slower licker-in speed of 600-750 r / min and a slower cylinder speed of 260-340 r / min. This effectively reduces damage to the long fibers during carding and ensures that the yarn has a significant coarseness and fineness effect.
[0039] In the drawing process, the blended sliver and the longer fiber sliver are blended according to a blending ratio to produce a blended finished sliver. The process parameters for this process include: 3-4 drawing passes, pressure bar-free drafting, a roller center distance of 50-55 mm in the front drafting zone, and a roller center distance of 55-60 mm in the back drafting zone. Through pressure bar-free and wide-spaced "weak control" drafting, the unevenness of the sliver is artificially created by utilizing the movement differences of fibers of different lengths during drafting, resulting in a random thick-thin effect in the final yarn appearance.
[0040] In the roving process, the blended sliver is made into blended roving by combining the existing slip drafting roving process. The process parameters include: the center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 55-60 mm, the center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 60-65 mm, and slip drafting is adopted with a slip groove depth of 2-2.5 mm to prevent the longer chemical fibers from being broken during the drafting process; a high twist coefficient of 100-130 is adopted to increase the grip of the yarn on the shorter chemical fibers and increase the control over the movement of the shorter chemical fibers.
[0041] The blended roving is then processed into a chemical fiber linen-like yarn using existing slip-draping spinning technology. Specifically, the spinning process can employ ring spinning with the following parameters: a roller center-to-center distance of 55-60 mm in the front drafting zone and 60-65 mm in the back drafting zone, using slip-draping with a slip groove depth of 1.5-2 mm to prevent the longer chemical fibers from breaking during the drafting process; and a high twist coefficient of 500-600 to give the yarn high stiffness and a smooth hand feel.
[0042] Therefore, in specific embodiments of the present invention, existing equipment can be used to mix four types of chemical fibers with large differences in length, including moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, longer chemical fibers and shorter chemical fibers, in a specific blending ratio, and produce a linen-like yarn with randomly distributed coarse and fine textures, good moisture absorption and wicking properties, quick drying, coolness, and stiffness.
[0043] The above-mentioned imitation linen yarn is woven into imitation linen fabric by machine or knitting, so that the imitation linen fabric is an imitation linen chemical fiber fabric, which has the natural rough texture appearance of linen fabric and excellent moisture absorption and wicking properties, as well as a stiff and crisp hand feel.
[0044] The present invention will be further described in detail below with reference to the embodiments and accompanying drawings, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, "%" in the embodiments and comparative examples refers to mass percentage content. Example 1
[0045] This embodiment provides a linen-like yarn, a linen-like fabric, and a method for preparing the same. The method for preparing the linen-like yarn uses existing spinning equipment and includes the following steps: Raw material selection: 40% wt% of moisture-wicking polyester fiber with a length of 30mm and a fineness of 1.5D; 40% wt% of cooling polyester fiber with a length of 30mm and a fineness of 1.5D; 15% wt% of longer viscose fiber with a length of 40mm and a fineness of 2.0D; and 5% wt% of shorter viscose fiber with a length of 15mm and a fineness of 1.0D. The cleaning and combing process combines existing opening, cleaning, and combing techniques, with specific parameters: a flathead linear speed of 10 mm / min, a flathead needle height of 6 mm, and a distance of 0.2 mm between the upper front cover and the cylinder, to spin the moisture-wicking polyester fiber, cooling polyester fiber, and shorter viscose fiber into a blended sliver. Combining existing opening, cleaning, and combing techniques, and specifying the five-point spacing between the cylinder and flathead combing points as 0.2 mm, 0.18 mm, 0.15 mm, 0.15 mm, and 0.18 mm, with a licker-in speed of 750 r / min and a cylinder speed of 340 r / min, the longer viscose fiber is spun into a longer fiber sliver. Drawing: Combining the existing drawing process, the blended sliver and the longer fiber sliver are mixed to produce a blended finished sliver; wherein the process parameters include: the number of drawing passes is 3, the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 50 mm, and the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 55 mm. Roving: The blended sliver is made into blended roving by combining the existing slip drafting roving process, wherein the process parameters include: slip trough depth 2mm, roller center distance in the front drafting zone is 55mm, roller center distance in the back drafting zone is 60mm, and twist coefficient is 130. Fine yarn: The blended roving is made into a chemical fiber imitation linen yarn with the properties shown in Table 1 by combining the existing slip drafting fine yarn process. The process parameters include: the center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 55 mm, the center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 60 mm, the slip groove depth is 1.5 mm, the twist coefficient is 600, and the fine yarn linear density is 35 tex.
[0046] Woven products: Using existing woven fabric technology, the fabric structure is plain weave, with a warp density of 210 ends / 10 cm and a weft density of 210 ends / 10 cm, achieving the following results: Figure 1 The imitation linen fabric shown is described in Table 2; the properties of the imitation linen fabric are shown in Table 2.
[0047] This embodiment employs the invention patent "Method for Predicting the Fiber Mixing Uniformity in Yarn by Computer Simulation of Blending Process (ZL 202110557433.7)" and the methods for simulating fiber drafting motion from the papers "Fiber Arrangement and Motion Simulation in the Preparation Process Before Combing" and "Study on Fiber Motion in the Drafting Zone" to simulate the drawing process, roving drafting, and spinning drafting process. The steps to obtain the coordinates of all fibers in the yarn in this embodiment are as follows: First, the three-dimensional coordinates of fibers in blended slivers (composed of moisture-wicking polyester fibers, cooling polyester fibers, and shorter viscose fibers) and longer fiber slivers are generated separately, forming a three-dimensional yarn. The coordinates of the left end of the fiber are denoted as fiberhead. i )=[ x 1( i ), y 1( i ), z 1( i The coordinates of the right head end are fibertail( i )=[ x 1( i ), y 1( i )+ l (i), z 1( i )],in, l (i) is the first i Root fiber length, and while generating fiber coordinates, the length of each fiber... l (i) Assign a value according to the set length of the component.
[0048] Then, a drafting simulation was performed on the above-mentioned sliver. During drafting, due to the difference in speed between the front and rear rollers, the fibers accelerated in the drafting zone, the yarn was drafted and thinned, and the fibers generated a displacement difference in the X-axis direction. After one drafting cycle, the left end of the fiber... fiberhead ( i )= [ x 2( i ), y 2( i ), z 2( i The X-axis, Y-axis, and Z-axis coordinates of [] are as follows: , , , E For the stretch ratio, This represents the distance of each fiber's acceleration point from the front roller nip in the drafting zone. The distribution of fiber acceleration points varies under different drafting process parameters and different fiber properties (especially length). The difference is the main reason for the unevenness and gaps in the yarn before and after drafting. Through experiments, the fiber acceleration point distribution under drafting parameters in drawing, roving, and spinning processes was obtained. The movement of fibers in drawing, roving, and spinning processes was simulated sequentially to obtain the coordinates of the fiber's head and tail ends in the final yarn. Using MATLAB's plotting tools, a single fiber can be obtained by connecting the coordinates of its beginning and end points. By sequentially connecting the coordinates of the beginning and end points of each fiber in the yarn and considering the yarn twist coefficient, an image of the yarn can be generated, as shown below. Figure 2 As shown, multiple strands of yarn are then arranged on the blackboard to obtain an electronic blackboard diagram of the yarn, as shown. Figure 3 As shown.
[0049] Using the method described in the paper "A Ring-Spun Slub Yarn Model Based on Random Fiber Distribution and Its Application," the generated yarn images are used as warp and weft yarns, combined according to the fabric specifications and parameters to obtain the appearance image of the woven fabric, such as... Figure 4 As shown.
[0050] from Figure 2 and Figure 3 As can be seen from this embodiment, the imitation linen yarn has obvious coarseness and fineness; Figure 4 This indicates that the imitation linen fabric obtained by spinning in this embodiment also has obvious coarseness and fineness. Example 2
[0051] This embodiment provides a linen-like yarn, a linen-like fabric, and a method for preparing the same. The preparation method is basically the same as that in Example 1, with the remaining steps and process parameters being identical. The main differences are as follows: Raw material selection: 25% blend of moisture-wicking polyester fibers with a length of 34 mm and a fineness of 2 D; 40% blend of cooling polyester fibers with a length of 34 mm and a fineness of 2 D; 20% blend of longer modal fibers with a length of 45 mm and a fineness of 2.5 D; and 15% blend of shorter modal fibers with a length of 20 mm and a fineness of 1.5 D. In the process of spinning blended sliver, the flat cover linear speed is 40 mm / min, the flat cover needle height is 6.7 mm, and the gap between the upper front cover and the cylinder is 0.3 mm. In the process of spinning longer fiber sliver, the five-point gaps between the cylinder and flat cover are 0.25 mm, 0.23 mm, 0.20 mm, 0.20 mm, and 0.23 mm, respectively, the licker-in speed is 675 r / min, and the cylinder speed is 300 r / min. Drawing: The number of drawing passes is 4, the center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 52 mm, and the center distance of the rollers in the rear drafting zone is 57 mm; Roving: The roving chute depth is 2.2 mm, the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 57 mm, the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 62 mm, and the twist coefficient is 115. Fine yarn: The center distance between the rollers in the front drafting zone is 57 mm, the center distance between the rollers in the back drafting zone is 62 mm, the chute depth is 1.7 mm, and the twist coefficient is 550; the final linear density of the linen-like fine yarn is 25 tex. Woven products: The final product is a linen-like fabric with properties as shown in Table 2. Example 3
[0052] This embodiment provides a linen-like yarn, a linen-like fabric, and a method for preparing the same. The preparation method is basically the same as that in Example 1, with the remaining steps and process parameters being identical. The main differences are as follows: Raw material selection: 40% blend of moisture-wicking polyester fibers with a length of 38mm and a fineness of 2.5D; 25% blend of cooling polyester fibers with a length of 38mm and a fineness of 2.5D; 20% blend of longer lyocell fibers with a length of 51mm and a fineness of 3.0D; and 15% blend of shorter lyocell fibers with a length of 25mm and a fineness of 2.0D. In the process of spinning blended sliver, the flat cover speed is 80 mm / min, the flat cover needle height is 7.5 mm, and the gap between the upper front cover and the cylinder is 0.4 mm. In the process of spinning longer fiber sliver, the five-point gaps between the cylinder and flat cover are 0.3 mm, 0.28 mm, 0.25 mm, 0.25 mm, and 0.28 mm, respectively, the licker-in speed is 600 r / min, and the cylinder speed is 260 r / min. Drawing: The number of drawing passes is 4, the center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 55 mm, and the center distance of the rollers in the rear drafting zone is 60 mm; Roving: The roving chute depth is 2.5 mm, the center distance between rollers in the front drafting zone is 60 mm, the center distance between rollers in the back drafting zone is 65 mm, and the twist coefficient is 100. Fine yarn: The center distance between the rollers in the front drafting zone is 60mm, the center distance between the rollers in the back drafting zone is 65mm, the chute depth is 2mm, and the twist coefficient is 500; the final linear density of the linen-like fine yarn is 15 tex. Woven products: The final product is a linen-like fabric with properties as shown in Table 2. Example 4
[0053] This embodiment provides a linen-like fabric and its preparation method. It uses linen-like yarn with a linear density of 35 tex spun in Example 1, combined with a knitting process. The fabric structure is plain weft, with a loop density of 80 rows / 50 mm and a loop density of 105 rows / 50 mm. The final product is as follows: Figure 5The linen-like knitted fabric shown is described in Table 2; the properties of this linen-like fabric are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 1
[0054] To highlight the ramie-like effect of the embodiments of the present invention, this comparative example spun 35 tex ramie yarn with properties as shown in Table 1, and prepared the yarn using the same weaving process as in Example 1. Figure 6 The ramie fabric shown has properties as shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 2
[0055] This comparative example provides a linen-like yarn, the preparation method of which is basically the same as that of Example 1, the main difference being the raw materials. This comparative example uses a 50% blend of moisture-wicking polyester fibers with a length of 30 mm and a fineness of 1.5D and a 50% blend of cooling polyester fibers with a length of 30 mm and a fineness of 1.5D. Shorter and longer viscose fibers are not used. The remaining steps and process parameters are the same as in Example 1, and the resulting simulated appearance is as shown below. Figure 7 and Figure 8 The properties of the 35 tex linen-like yarn shown are listed in Table 1. Simultaneously, a linen-like fabric with the properties shown in Table 2 was spun using the same method as in Example 1. A simulation diagram of this linen-like fabric is shown below. Figure 9 As shown in the picture, the actual product is as follows. Figure 10 As shown.
[0056] from Figure 7 and Figure 8 As can be seen from this comparison, the imitation linen yarn prepared in this proportion has no obvious coarseness or fineness. Figure 9 This indicates that the imitation linen fabric obtained from this comparative textile study also has no obvious coarseness or fineness. Comparative Example 3
[0057] This comparative example provides a linen-like yarn, the preparation method of which is basically the same as that of Example 2, the main difference being the raw materials. The raw materials of this comparative example consist of a blend of 25% moisture-wicking polyester fibers (30mm in length, 1.5D fineness), 40% cool-feeling polyester fibers (30mm in length, 1.5D fineness), 20% longer modal fibers (38mm in length, 1.5D fineness), and 15% shorter modal fibers (28mm in length, 1.2D fineness). The remaining steps and process parameters are the same as in Example 2, resulting in a 25 tex linen-like yarn. The properties of this linen-like yarn are shown in Table 1. Simultaneously, a linen-like fabric spun using the same method as in Example 2 has the properties shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 4
[0058] This comparative example provides a linen-like yarn, the preparation method of which is basically the same as that of Example 1. The main difference is that the combing and cleaning process is not a "low-row short-fiber" combing process. In this process, during the spinning of the blended sliver, the cover plate speed is 100 mm / min, the cover plate needle height is 8 mm, and the gap between the upper front cover plate and the cylinder is 0.6 mm. The remaining steps and process parameters are the same as those of Example 1. The appearance simulation results are as follows. Figure 11 The 35 tex linen-like yarn shown is illustrated in the electronic blackboard diagram. Figure 12 As shown, the performance is illustrated in Table 1. From Figure 11 and Figure 12 It can be seen that the appearance of the yarn does not show significant coarseness or fineness effects. Comparative Example 5
[0059] This comparative example provides a linen-like yarn, the preparation method of which is basically the same as that of Example 1. The main difference is that the carding and combing process adopts a "gentle combing" process with a small gap and low speed. In this process of spinning into a longer fiber sliver, the five-point gaps of the cylinder-cover carding are 0.1mm, 0.15mm, 0.12mm, 0.10mm, and 0.15mm, respectively, the licker-in speed is 800 r / min, and the cylinder speed is 350 r / min. The remaining steps and process parameters are the same as in Example 1, and the appearance simulation results are as follows. Figure 13 The 35 tex linen-like yarn shown is illustrated in the electronic blackboard diagram. Figure 14 As shown, the performance is illustrated in Table 1. From Figure 13 and Figure 14 It can be seen that long fibers suffer more damage during combing, and the coarseness and fineness effects of the yarn appearance are not obvious compared with Example 1. Comparative Example 6
[0060] This comparative example provides a linen-like yarn, the preparation method of which is basically the same as that of Example 1, the main difference being in the roving step. The process parameters in this step include: the roving does not use slip drafting, the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 52 mm, the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 60 mm, and the twist coefficient is 130; the remaining steps and process parameters are the same as in Example 1, resulting in a linen-like fine yarn with properties as shown in Table 1. Simultaneously, a linen-like fabric with properties as shown in Table 2 is spun using the same method as in Example 1. Comparative Example 7
[0061] This comparative example provides a linen-like yarn, the preparation method of which is basically the same as that of Example 1, the main difference being in the roving step. The process parameters in this step include: the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the front drafting zone is 53 mm, the center-to-center distance of the rollers in the back drafting zone is 55 mm, slip drafting is not used, and the twist coefficient is 600; the remaining steps and process parameters are the same as in Example 1, resulting in a linen-like fine yarn with properties as shown in Table 1. Simultaneously, a linen-like fabric with properties as shown in Table 2 is spun using the same method as in Example 1.
[0062] The imitation linen yarn and ramie yarn provided in the embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention were tested according to GB / T 3292.1-2008 "Textiles - Test methods for unevenness of yarn - Part 1: Capacitance method" and GB / T 3916-2013 "Textiles - Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break of single yarn in package (CRE method)". The results are shown in Table 1.
[0063] Table 1. Comparison of performance between imitation linen yarn and ramie yarn sample CV / % of strips -50% details / (pieces / km) +50% thicker sections / (pieces / km) +200% cotton knots / (pieces / kilometer) Fracture strength / (cN / tex) Comparative Example 1 21.55 287 349 406 20.90 Comparative Example 2 13.49 13 25 29 22.61 Comparative Example 3 14.62 23 45 62 19.89 Comparative Example 4 16.87 51 54 78 20.14 Comparative Example 5 17.10 64 98 102 19.81 Comparative Example 6 18.19 107 126 114 20.45 Comparative Example 7 18.21 157 240 254 20.34 Example 1 20.97 240 307 398 19.76 Example 2 22.47 261 314 401 19.11 Example 3 23.88 265 327 408 18.95 The imitation linen fabric and ramie fabric provided in the embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention were subjected to performance tests in accordance with GB / T23329-2009 "Determination of drape of textiles", GB / T3819-1997 "Determination of crease recovery of textiles", GB / T5453-1997 "Determination of air permeability of textiles", GB / T 12704.1-2009 "Test method for moisture permeability of textiles", and GB / T35263-2017 "Detection and evaluation of instantaneous cooling performance of textiles upon contact". The results are shown in Table 2.
[0064] Table 2. Comparison of properties between linen-like fabrics and ramie fabrics sample <![CDATA[Water vapor transmission rate / [g·(m 2 / h)]]]> Air permeability / (mm·s⁻¹) Sag factor / % <![CDATA[Instantaneous cooling sensation upon contact / (W / cm 2 )]]> Wrinkle recovery angle / ° itching Comparative Example 1 5019.5 1677.4 97.5 0.26 91.9 have Comparative Example 2 4307.8 1295.1 96.7 0.29 136.5 none Comparative Example 3 4969.3 1541.9 94.9 0.27 127.3 none Comparative Example 6 4892.1 1501.4 96.5 0.25 128.3 none Comparative Example 7 4947.5 1549.2 97.1 0.25 126.9 none Example 1 4876.1 1487.3 97.3 0.28 131.7 none Example 2 5002.7 1599.2 95.1 0.27 129.8 none Example 3 5009.3 1634.4 94.6 0.24 120.7 none Example 4 5045.2 1689.6 95.9 0.25 128.2 none Combining Table 1-2 above and Figure 1-14As can be seen, the technical solution provided by the embodiments of the present invention, based on existing textile equipment, through processes such as raw material selection, opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, spinning, and weaving, mixes moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, a small amount of longer chemical fibers, and a small amount of shorter chemical fibers into yarn, and then weaves or knits it into performance fabrics. For the mixed fibers of moisture-wicking fibers, cooling fibers, and shorter chemical fibers, a "low-row short fiber" carding process is used, and a gentle carding process is used for the longer chemical fibers, thereby achieving the carding of various fibers with huge length differences. In the drawing, roving, and spinning processes, a "gentle control" drafting method is used to achieve a significant uneven distribution of fibers in the yarn, that is, a natural coarse and fine texture effect. And a high twist coefficient is used to make the yarn stiff and smooth to the touch. Therefore, the embodiments of the present invention achieve a high degree of linen-like effect in both appearance and function through the above series of processes and specific raw material combinations, and the linen-like fabric woven from this linen-like yarn has a correspondingly high degree of linen-like fabric effect.
[0065] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention and not to limit them; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that modifications can still be made to the specific implementation of the present invention or equivalent substitutions can be made to some technical features without departing from the spirit of the technical solutions of the present invention, and all such modifications and substitutions should be covered within the scope of the technical solutions claimed in the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for preparing a linen-like yarn, comprising: raw material selection: configuring 25-40 wt% of moisture-wicking fiber, 25-40 wt% of cool fiber, 15-20 wt% of long fiber, and 5-15 wt% of short chemical fiber, wherein the long chemical fiber has a length of 30-60 mm and the short chemical fiber has a length of 10-25 mm; spinning blended sliver: mixing the moisture-wicking fiber, the cool fiber, and the short chemical fiber, and performing mixed opening and mixed carding treatment to obtain a blended sliver; spinning long fiber sliver: performing long fiber opening and long fiber carding treatment on the long chemical fiber to obtain a long fiber sliver; spinning linen-like yarn: sequentially performing drawing, roving, and spinning treatment on the blended sliver and the long fiber sliver to obtain a linen-like yarn, wherein the drawing treatment comprises a step of performing sliver blending treatment on the blended sliver and the long fiber sliver.
2. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, The moisture-wicking fiber has a length of 30-38 mm and a linear density of 1.5-2.5 D, the cool fiber has a length of 30-38 mm and a linear density of 1.5-2.5 D, the long chemical fiber has a length of 40-51 mm and a linear density of 2.0-3.0 D, and the short chemical fiber has a length of 20-25 mm and a linear density of 1.5-3.0 D.
3. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, In the process of spinning the blended sliver, the process parameters of the mixed carding treatment include: a flat speed of 0-80 mm / min, a needle height of the flat clothing of 6-7.5 mm, and a distance between the front upper cover plate and the cylinder of 0.2-0.4 mm.
4. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, In the process of spinning the long fiber sliver, the process parameters of the long fiber carding treatment include: five-point distances of cylinder-flat carding of 0.2-0.3 mm, 0.18-0.28 mm, 0.15-0.25 mm, 0.15-0.25 mm, and 0.18-0.28 mm, a taker-in speed of 600-750 r / min, and a cylinder speed of 260-340 r / min.
5. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, In the process of spinning the linen-like yarn, the drawing treatment comprises: sliver blending the blended sliver and the long fiber sliver, 3-4 passes of drawing, no pressure bar drafting, a roller center distance of 50-55 mm in the front drafting zone, and a roller center distance of 55-60 mm in the rear drafting zone.
6. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, In the process of spinning the linen-like yarn, the process parameters of the roving treatment include: a roller center distance of 55-60 mm in the front drafting zone, a roller center distance of 60-65 mm in the rear drafting zone, a depth of the slicker of 2-2.5 mm, and a twist factor of 100-130.
7. The production method according to claim 6, characterized by In the process of spinning the linen-like yarn, the spinning treatment is performed by ring spinning, and the parameters of the ring spinning method include: a roller center distance of 55-60 mm in the front drafting zone, a roller center distance of 60-65 mm in the rear drafting zone, a depth of the slicker of 1.5-2 mm, and a twist factor of 500-600. 8.The linen-like yarn prepared by the method according to any one of claims 1-7.
9. A linen-like yarn, characterized in that It is spun from the following raw materials: 25-40 wt% moisture-wicking fiber, 25-40 wt% cooling fiber, 15-20 wt% longer chemical fiber and 5-15 wt% shorter chemical fiber, wherein the length of the longer chemical fiber is 30-60 mm and the length of the shorter chemical fiber is 10-25 mm.
10. A linen-like fabric, made by machine weaving or knitting the linen-like yarn as described in claim 8 or 9.
Citation Information
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