Processing technology of double palace silk fabric
By optimizing the processing technology of double-silk fabrics using modifiers and tension control techniques, the problems of insufficient softening of hard nodes and poor morphological stability in double-silk fabrics have been solved, thereby improving the processing quality and production efficiency of double-silk fabrics.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- 南充市美洋丝绸有限公司
- Filing Date
- 2026-04-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-30
AI Technical Summary
In the traditional processing of double-silk fabric, the hard nodes of the double-silk are not softened sufficiently, resulting in poor morphological stability. This leads to easy breakage of the silk threads and increased fuzziness, affecting production efficiency and finished product quality.
Silk protein hydrolysate-polyethylene oxide graft copolymer was used as a sericin elastic modifier. Combined with ultrasonic treatment, double-fiber filaments were soaked and sprayed with epoxy silane coupling agent micro-mist. The hard nodule location was identified by a high-frequency vibration detection component, and differentiated tension control and infrared heating treatment were implemented to optimize the re-rolling, spinning, and fiber shaking steps.
It effectively improves the softening effect of hard knots in double-core yarn, enhances morphological stability, reduces yarn breakage and fuzzing, lowers the rate of weft and warp breaks during weaving, and improves production efficiency and finished product quality.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile processing technology, specifically a processing technology for double-layered silk fabric. Background Technology
[0002] Double-silk fabric is a high-end specialty silk fabric woven from double-silk as the core material and white raw silk as the base material. Its unique combination of natural bumpy texture and the soft luster of silk makes it widely used in high-end clothing, home furnishings, and other fields. Its traditional processing involves two independent raw material threads and a shared post-weaving treatment stage. Raw raw silk branch: Raw raw silk → soaking → drying → re-reeling → warping → packaging; Double-core yarn: Double-core yarn → soaking → drying → re-spinning → spinning → spinning; Common stages: weaving silk → finishing → warehousing.
[0003] In conventional industrial production, technicians often focus on optimizing explicit process parameters such as soaking time, tension control, and weaving rate, but tend to overlook the following technical issues: Firstly, the knots and hard nodules in double-cocoon silk are formed by the intertwining and compression of silk threads within the double-cocoon. Conventional soaking processes can only soften the sericin on the surface of the nodules, failing to fully soften the loosely intertwined silk threads inside. This results in insufficient regularity in the shape of the nodules and a chaotic texture. During the rewinding process, the insufficiently softened nodules are prone to stress concentration due to mechanical combing, causing silk thread breakage and increased fuzziness, directly affecting the quality of the yarn in subsequent spinning and twisting processes. After entering the weaving stage, the insufficiently softened nodules are even more prone to stress concentration due to the stretching and compression of the loom, causing sudden changes in yarn tension. This leads to frequent weft and warp breaks at the nodules, requiring repeated loom shutdowns and severely impacting production efficiency.
[0004] Secondly, due to its loose structure, the morphological stability of double-ply yarn is far lower than that of raw silk. After being wound and combed by a rewinding machine, raw silk forms a temporary stable shape, which is crucial for ensuring smooth unwinding and stable tension in subsequent doubling, spinning, and weaving processes. However, due to the loose structure of double-ply yarn, this temporary stable shape rapidly decays during subsequent doubling, spinning, and storage before weaving. This causes the yarn, which has been smoothed during rewinding, to reappear with disordered shape and uneven tension distribution after entering the doubling and spinning stages. Consequently, during weaving, this leads to weft drift, reed skipping, warp shrinkage, weft skew, and other quality defects, resulting in a high product defect rate.
[0005] In summary, providing a processing technology for double-layered silk fabric that can effectively solve the above-mentioned technical problems is of great significance. Summary of the Invention
[0006] The purpose of this invention is to provide a processing technology for double-silk fabric, which can effectively solve the problems of insufficient softening of hard knots and poor morphological stability in traditional double-silk processes. At the same time, it can improve the phenomena such as breakage, fuzzing and sticking that are prone to occur during the processing of silk threads, thereby improving the overall processing quality of double-silk and the weaving quality of double-silk fabric.
[0007] The objective of this invention is achieved through the following technical solution: A double-silk fabric processing technique involves first processing the raw white silk and double-silk separately, and then weaving the two processed silks into silk. The white raw silk processing technology includes soaking → drying → re-shaping → warping → packaging; The double-fiber processing technology includes soaking → drying → re-shaping → spinning → fiber reeling; The soaking process for double-core silk is as follows: the double-core silk is soaked in deionized water containing sericin elastic modifier and polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion, and ultrasound is turned on simultaneously. After soaking, it is rinsed with clean water and then drained naturally. The sericin elastic modifier is a silk protein hydrolysate-polyethylene oxide graft copolymer; During the drying process of double-core silk: first spray the surface of the silk with a fine mist of epoxy silane coupling agent, and then dry it. The double-core yarn rewinding process employs differentiated tension control: a high-frequency vibration detection component is installed on an elastic support. Vibration sensors capture the difference in vibration frequency between hard and non-hard yarn strands in the double-core yarn, identifying the location of the hard yarn. Upon detecting a hard yarn signal, the tension regulator is triggered to lower the rewinding tension. Once the hard yarn signal disappears, the tension regulator restores the rewinding reference tension. After the rewinding and winding are completed, the double-core yarn undergoes pre-baking and infrared heating, followed by cooling. During the double-coil spinning process: the double-coil hard nodule identification signal captured by the high-frequency vibration detection component in the re-rolling process is obtained, and graded spinning tension control is performed according to the differentiated tension in the re-rolling process; During the spinning process of double-core yarn: maintain the spinning tension consistent with the doubling tension.
[0008] Preferably, in the double silk soaking step, based on the mass of deionized water, the amount of sericin elastic modifier added is 0.2~0.3wt%, the amount of polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion added is 0.01~0.02wt%, the deionized water temperature is 38~42℃, the ultrasonic power is 180~220W, and the soaking time is 18~22min.
[0009] Preferably, in the drying step of the double-silk fabric, when spraying the epoxy silane coupling agent micro-mist, an ultrasonic atomization and synchronous purging airflow linkage spray mode is adopted, with an ultrasonic atomization power of 50~60W and a purging airflow velocity of 0.3~0.5m / s; after spraying, the ambient temperature is adjusted to 38~40℃ and the relative humidity is reduced to 55±3%, and the drying continues until the double-silk fabric reaches the preset final moisture content.
[0010] Preferably, in the double-wire re-rocking step, the high-frequency vibration detection component has a vibration frequency of 120~130Hz and a vibration intensity of 8~10μm, the elastic coefficient of the elastic support is 5~8N / m, and the spacing between the detection components is 2~3cm; the tension switching response time is ≤0.1s, the re-rocking hard section tension is 0.5~0.7cN / tex, and the re-rocking non-hard section reference tension is 0.9~1.1cN / tex.
[0011] Preferably, in the double-coil re-shaping step, the pre-drying temperature is 42~45℃ and the pre-drying time is 5~6 minutes. The infrared heating wavelength is 3.0~3.2μm, the power is 200~220W, and the infrared heating temperature is 58~62℃. By limiting the heating method, the surface moisture of the modifier can be fully removed, achieving stable curing of the modifier and sericin composite film and maintaining the stability of the bifilament morphology.
[0012] Preferably, in the double-core yarn doubling step, the doubling tension of the section corresponding to the hard section is 0.85 to 0.9 times the tension of the section corresponding to the non-hard section is 0.9 to 0.95 times the tension of the non-hard section during rewinding. In actual implementation, if the doubling tension and the rewinding tension do not match, problems such as loose strands and fraying may easily occur, affecting the doubling quality. This application, by limiting the ratio of the tension of the section corresponding to the hard section and the section corresponding to the non-hard section to the tension of the rewinding tension during double-core yarn doubling, can achieve a match between the doubling tension and the rewinding tension, effectively avoiding the above-mentioned problems and ensuring the doubling quality.
[0013] Preferably, in the silk weaving step, the tension difference between the raw white yarn and the double-layered yarn is controlled within 0.1~0.2 cN / tex. By limiting the tension difference between the raw white yarn and the double-layered yarn in the silk weaving step, this application can ensure tension matching between the two yarns during the weaving process, effectively avoiding weft and warp breakage problems caused by excessive tension difference, reducing the number of loom downtimes, and improving weaving efficiency and the quality of the finished fabric.
[0014] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are: This double-silk fabric processing technology optimizes each step of the double-silk treatment process, effectively improving the processing quality of double-silk and alleviating the technical problems existing in traditional processes. The specific beneficial effects are as follows: In the soaking step of double-fiber silk, silk protein hydrolysate-polyethylene oxide graft copolymer is used as a sericin elastic modifier. This modifier can loosen the entanglement structure of the internal strands of the double-fiber silk hard sections, improving the problem that traditional soaking can only soften the surface sericin of the hard sections and not enough the internal strands. Combined with ultrasound, the modifier can effectively penetrate into the hard sections of the double-fiber silk, improving the softening effect of the hard sections and improving the lack of regularity and messy texture of the hard sections. By adding polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion, the problem of excessive water residue and easy dust adsorption caused by the strong hydrophilicity of the polyethylene oxide segment of the modifier can be improved. After soaking, rinsing with clean water can remove the floating liquid on the surface of the silk thread, retain the modifier inside the sericin, and the subsequent natural drainage can control the moisture content of the double-fiber silk, laying the foundation for subsequent processes and reducing the breakage of strands and the increase of fuzz caused by insufficient softening of hard sections during re-rolling.
[0015] During the drying process of double-core silk, an epoxy silane coupling agent micro-mist is sprayed onto the surface of the silk first. This can improve the problem of increased sericin viscosity caused by the modifier in the soaking step and reduce the occurrence of sticking, curling and wrinkling of the silk during the drying process.
[0016] The double-core yarn rewinding process employs differentiated tension control. By setting up a high-frequency vibration detection component, it can capture the vibration frequency difference between hard and non-hard yarns in the double-core yarn, identifying the location of the hard yarn. After identifying the hard yarn signal, the tension regulator is triggered to lower the rewinding tension, which can reduce yarn breakage caused by excessive tension in the hard yarn area. After the hard yarn signal disappears, the rewinding reference tension is restored, which can make the non-hard yarn area more tightly wound. After the rewinding and winding is completed, the double-core yarn undergoes pre-drying and infrared heating followed by cooling. Pre-drying can remove trace amounts of moisture on the surface of the modifier, preventing the polyethylene oxide segment from softening and sticking. Infrared heating can solidify the composite film formed by the modifier and sericin, which is beneficial to maintain the stable shape of the double-core yarn after rewinding, slowing down the attenuation of the shape during subsequent yarn doubling, yarn rewinding and storage, improving the problems of yarn shape disorder and uneven tension distribution, thereby reducing quality defects such as weft drift, reed skipping and warp shrinkage and weft skew in the weaving process.
[0017] During the double-coil spinning process, the high-frequency vibration detection component captures the double-coil hard nodule identification signal in the re-rolling process. According to the differentiated tension in the re-rolling process, graded spinning tension control is performed to match the spinning tension with the re-rolling tension, thereby reducing the occurrence of loose strands and detachment of yarns during the spinning process and ensuring the spinning quality.
[0018] During the spinning process of double-fiber yarn, maintaining the spinning tension and the doubling tension can further maintain the morphological stability of the double-fiber yarn, reduce yarn deformation during spinning, provide high-quality double-fiber yarn for subsequent weaving, and reduce the incidence of weft and warp breaks during weaving.
[0019] In summary, this process, through the coordination of each step, improves upon the problems of insufficient softening of hard knots, poor morphological stability of double silk threads, easy sticking and breakage of silk threads in traditional double silk processing, thereby enhancing the processing quality and production efficiency of double silk threads and contributing to the improvement of the finished quality of double silk fabrics. Detailed Implementation
[0020] Example 1 S1 raw silk processing: S11 Soaking: Soak the raw silk (silk from white silkworm cocoons, fineness 20-22D, cocoon layer grade 1) in 38℃ deionized water, add 0.1wt% neutral detergent, stir at 150r / min, soak for 20min, rinse 3 times with clean water after soaking, and drain naturally; S12 Drying: Place the drained white raw silk in an environment with a temperature of 35℃ and a relative humidity of 60% and air dry naturally until the moisture content is 12%; S13 Rewinding: A rewinding machine is used, with the rewinding tension controlled at 0.8 cN / tex and the winding speed at 10 m / min, rewinding to a bobbin diameter of 8 cm; S14 warp: After rewinding, the white raw silk warp beam is controlled with a warp tension of 0.7 cN / tex and a warp speed of 8 m / min to complete the warp process; S15 Last Installation: Insert the white raw silk warp beam after the fiber warp into the loom last, fix it firmly, and set it aside.
[0021] S2 double-silk treatment: S21 Soaking: Double-cocoon silk (silkworm double-cocoon raw silk, fineness 40-44D, cocoon layer grade 2) is soaked in deionized water containing sericin elastic modifier (0.25wt% based on the mass of deionized water) and polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion (0.015wt% based on the mass of deionized water). The solid-liquid ratio of double-cocoon silk to deionized water is 1:20 (g:mL), the deionized water temperature is 40℃, and ultrasonication (power 200W, frequency 20kHz) is turned on simultaneously. The stirring speed is 180r / min, and the soaking time is 20min. After soaking, it is slowly rinsed twice with clean water at room temperature and pressure (each rinsing time is 1min, and the rinsing water flow rate is ≤0.2m / s). After rinsing, it is naturally drained until the moisture content is 20%. The preparation method of the sericin elastic modifier is as follows: Take 100g of silk fibroin, add 500mL of deionized water, stir to dissolve, add 5g of alkaline protease (enzyme activity 10000U / g, solution state, concentration 5wt%), control the temperature at 45℃ and the stirring speed at 200r / min, hydrolyze for 3h, after completion, raise the temperature to 90℃, keep warm for 20min to inactivate the enzyme, cool to room temperature to obtain silk fibroin hydrolysate; then add 80g of polyethylene oxide (molecular weight 15000), add a mixed solvent of 150mL of anhydrous ethanol + 50mL of deionized water as the reaction solvent, add 0.5g of azobisisobutyronitrile as the initiator, control the temperature at 70℃ and under nitrogen protection, stir to react for 6h, after the reaction is completed, cool to room temperature, vacuum dry (temperature 60℃, vacuum degree -0.08MPa) to constant weight, pulverize and pass through an 80-mesh sieve to obtain the sericin elastic modifier (grafting rate 30%~40%).
[0022] The preparation method of polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion is as follows: Take 30g of polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 100cs, 67g of deionized water, 2.5g of Tween-80 and 0.5g of dodecanol, stir the emulsifier and deionized water at 45℃ and 200r / min until well mixed, slowly add polydimethylsiloxane dropwise and continue stirring for 30min, and homogenize twice under high pressure at 30MPa and 45℃.
[0023] S22 Drying: First, spray KH-560 micro-mist onto the surface of the yarn after draining in step S21. Use ultrasonic atomization and synchronous blowing airflow linkage spray mode, with ultrasonic atomization power of 55W and blowing airflow velocity of 0.4m / s. Based on the dry weight of the double yarn after draining in step S21, the amount of KH-560 micro-mist added is 0.065wt% (the solvent is a mixture of anhydrous ethanol and deionized water, with a volume ratio of 1:1), the droplet size is ≤10μm, and the spraying time is 10min. After spraying, adjust the ambient temperature to 39℃ and the relative humidity to 55%, and continue drying until the double-silk reaches the preset final moisture content of 12%. S23 Re-rolling: Differential tension control is employed, with a high-frequency vibration detection component mounted on an elastic support (elastic coefficient 6.5 N / m). The vibration frequency of the high-frequency vibration detection component is 125 Hz, the vibration intensity is 9 μm, and the spacing between the detection components is 2.5 cm. The tension switching response time is 0.08 s, the tension of the re-rolling hard section is 0.6 cN / tex, and the reference tension of the re-rolling non-hard section is 1.0 cN / tex. During the re-rolling process, the vibration sensor captures the difference in vibration frequency between the hard section and the non-hard section of the double-core silk, identifies the hard section position, and triggers the tension regulator to lower the re-rolling tension to 0.6 cN / tex after the hard section signal disappears. After the hard section signal disappears, the tension regulator returns to normal. The rewinding reference tension is 1.0 cN / tex; the rewinding speed is 12 m / min, winding to a bobbin diameter of 8 cm; after rewinding, the double-core yarn undergoes pre-drying and infrared heating, followed by cooling to room temperature; the pre-drying temperature is 43.5℃, the pre-drying time is 5.5 min, and the pre-drying area and the infrared heating area are a continuous integrated heating structure with a yarn transmission channel spacing of 3 cm; the infrared heating wavelength is 3.1 μm, the power is 210 W, the infrared heating temperature is 60℃, and the infrared heating time is 10 min; natural cooling is used, the cooling environment temperature is 26℃, and the cooling time is 15 min; the yarn transmission speed in the heating area is the same as the rewinding speed (12 m / min). S24 Twining: During twinning, the high-frequency vibration detection component captures the double-core yarn hard knot identification signal in the re-rolling process. Based on the differentiated tension in the re-rolling process, graded twinning tension control is performed accordingly. The twinning tension of the section corresponding to the hard knot is 0.87 times (0.52 cN / tex) of the re-rolling hard knot tension, and the twinning tension of the section corresponding to the non-hard knot is 0.92 times (0.92 cN / tex) of the re-rolling non-hard knot tension. The twinning speed is 15 m / min, and the fineness of the yarn after twinning is 80-88D. S25 Fiber Reeling: During the fiber reeling process, maintain the fiber reeling tension consistent with the yarn tension (0.52 cN / tex for the hard section and 0.92 cN / tex for the non-hard section), with a fiber reeling speed of 10 m / min. Reel until the fiber diameter is 5 cm. After the fiber reeling is completed, place it in a constant temperature and humidity environment of 25℃ and 68±3% for 30 min.
[0024] S3 Silk Weaving: The treated white raw silk warp beam and double silk weft are placed on the loom. The weaving tension is adjusted so that the tension of the white raw silk is higher than that of the double silk, and the tension difference between the white raw silk and the double silk is controlled at 0.15 cN / tex. The weaving speed is 20 m / min, and the weaving density is 120 warp threads / inch and 80 weft threads / inch to obtain the double silk fabric greige. S4 Finishing: The greige fabric is subjected to desizing (temperature 60℃, desizing agent concentration 2wt%, soaking for 30min), washing (room temperature, rinsing 3 times), softening finishing (softener concentration 1wt%, temperature 45℃, soaking for 20min), and drying (temperature 70℃, drying time 30min) in sequence to obtain the finished double-layer silk fabric.
[0025] Example 2 The process steps in this embodiment are completely the same as those in Embodiment 1, with only the following parameters adjusted: S21 soaking: 0.2wt% sericin elastic modifier, 0.01wt% polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion, 38℃ deionized water, 180W ultrasonic power, 18min soaking time; S23 Re-shaking: High-frequency vibration detection component vibration frequency 120Hz, vibration intensity 8μm, elastic support elastic coefficient 5N / m, detection component spacing 2cm; re-shaking hard section tension 0.5cN / tex, re-shaking non-hard section reference tension 0.9cN / tex; S3 silk fabric: The tension difference between the white raw silk and the double-core silk is controlled at 0.1 cN / tex.
[0026] Example 3 The process steps in this embodiment are completely the same as those in Embodiment 1, with only the following parameters adjusted: S22 air drying: ultrasonic atomization power 50W, purge airflow velocity 0.3m / s, epoxy silane coupling agent micro-mist addition amount 0.06wt%; after spraying, the ambient temperature is 38℃ and the relative humidity is 52%. S23 Repeat Shaking: Pre-drying temperature 45℃, pre-drying time 6min, infrared heating wavelength 3.2μm, power 220W, infrared heating temperature 62℃; S24 parallel wire: The parallel wire tension of the section corresponding to the hard section is 0.9 times (0.54cN / tex) of the tension of the hard section of the combined rocking, and the parallel wire tension of the section corresponding to the non-hard section is 0.95 times (0.95cN / tex) of the tension of the non-hard section of the combined rocking.
[0027] Comparative Example 1 Compared to Example 1, only the sericin elastic modifier in the double-fiber soaking step was removed, while the remaining components and amounts remained unchanged (0.015 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion was retained), and the remaining process steps and parameters were the same as in Example 1.
[0028] Comparative Example 2 Compared to Example 1, only the polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion in the double-fiber soaking step is removed; the remaining process steps and parameters are the same as in Example 1.
[0029] Comparative Example 3 Compared to Example 1, the only difference is that the sericin elastic modifier (silk protein hydrolysate-polyethylene oxide graft copolymer) in the double silk soaking step is replaced with commercially available sericin (ungrafted polyethylene oxide), with the addition amount remaining at 0.25 wt%. The remaining process steps and parameters are the same as in Example 1.
[0030] Comparative Example 4 Compared to Example 1, only the differentiated tension control and high-frequency vibration detection components in the double-silk re-rolling step are removed. A single tension (0.8cN / tex) is used during re-rolling, hard spots are not identified, tension is not adjusted, and tension switching response time control is canceled. The remaining process steps and parameters are the same as in Example 1.
[0031] Comparative Example 5 Compared to Example 1, only the operation of "spraying epoxy silane coupling agent micro-mist onto the surface of the yarn" in the drying step of double yarn is deleted. Instead, the soaked and drained double yarn is directly placed in an environment with a temperature of 39°C and a relative humidity of 55% to dry to a moisture content of 12%. The remaining process steps and parameters are the same as in Example 1.
[0032] Comparative Example 6 Compared to Example 1, only the pre-drying and infrared heating steps after the double-coil rewinding are removed. After the rewinding is completed, the coil is directly cooled to room temperature naturally. The remaining process steps and parameters are the same as in Example 1.
[0033] Experimental Example Using the double-fiber yarns / grey fabrics prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 as the test objects, three main categories of tests were conducted: softening effect of double-fiber yarn hard spots, morphological stability of double-fiber yarns, and yarn processing quality. The specific test indicators and methods are as follows: (1) Softening effect of double-wire hard nodules: ① Nodule regularity: Take 5 sections of double-fiber silk samples after soaking and drying, each section is 10m long. Flatten each section of silk with an electronic single-fiber strength tester. Identify and count all nodules under a stereomicroscope (40x magnification). Calculate the proportion of nodules with regular contours, no curling or frizz, and uniform texture distribution in each section. Take the average of the 5 samples as the final result.
[0034] ② Degree of loosening of internal fibers in hard nodules: Take 5 sections of double-core silk samples from the same batch used for the hard nodule regularity test, each section being 10m long. After flattening, mark all hard nodules in each section. Use a 0.3cN / tex standard tension hook to pull each hard nodule at a uniform speed of 5cm / min for a pulling distance of 10cm. Those that can naturally stretch out, without fibers clumping or getting stuck, and with a uniform texture without lumps after pulling are considered completely loosened. Calculate the proportion of completely loosened hard nodules in each section to the total number of hard nodules, and take the average of the 5 samples as the final result.
[0035] ③ Weft / warp breakage rate in weaving hard knots: During the silk weaving process, the total number of weft and warp breaks caused by insufficient softening of hard knots in double-core silk fabric is recorded for every 100m of double-core silk fabric woven. The average value of the three sets of 100m weaving data is the final result.
[0036] (2) Stability of double-wire morphology: ① Shape retention rate (%): Take 5 segments of double-fiber yarn after re-reeling, each segment is 10m long, and use a tension meter to detect the tension variation coefficient of each segment; place the sample in an environment of 25℃ and 60% relative humidity for 48h (before reeling), and then detect the tension variation coefficient of each segment of the same batch. Calculate the result using the formula (tension variation coefficient after storage / tension variation coefficient before storage) × 100%, and take the average of the 5 segments as the final result.
[0037] ② Weft drift / reed skip rate: Using a rapier loom with a fixed weaving speed of 20m / min, warp density of 120 warp ends / inch, and weft density of 80 warp ends / inch, during the silk weaving process, excluding external factors such as loom equipment failure and operational errors, the total number of weft drifts and reed skips caused solely by disordered double-core yarn morphology and uneven tension was recorded for every 100m of double-core silk fabric woven. The average of the three sets of 100m weaving data was used as the final result.
[0038] ③ Warp shrinkage / weft slant of greige fabric (%): After the greige fabric is obtained after weaving, the ruler and compass method is used to select 5 different test areas of 20cm×20cm on the greige fabric. The greige fabric is first pre-shrunken at room temperature for 24h and then the warp shrinkage rate and weft slant of each area are tested. The average value of the 5 areas is taken as the final result.
[0039] (3) Thread processing quality: ① Silk breakage rate (times / 1000m): The total number of natural breaks of double-core silk due to process and raw material problems during the entire process from soaking to fiber reeling is calculated. The average value of 3 sets of 1000m processing data is the final result.
[0040] ② Number of filaments (filaments / 10m): Take 5 sections of double-core yarn samples after spinning, each section is 10m long, and use a YG172 filament analyzer to detect the number of filaments with a length ≥3mm in each section. Take the average of the 5 samples as the final result.
[0041] ③ Silk thread adhesion rate (%): Take the dried double silk sample, randomly cut 5 groups of samples, 20 segments in each group, 1m in each segment, and let each segment of silk thread hang naturally without applying any external force. Observe whether there is any adhesion phenomenon where the silk threads stick together and cannot be separated naturally. Count the proportion of the number of adhesion segments in each group to the total number of segments, and take the average of the 5 groups of samples as the final result.
[0042] The test results are shown in Table 1.
[0043] Table 1: As can be seen from Table 1: Examples 1-3 effectively improved the problems of insufficient softening and poor morphological stability of double-core yarn hard knots. At the same time, they significantly improved problems such as yarn breakage, increased fuzz, yarn adhesion during yarn processing, as well as problems such as weft and warp breakage, weft yarn drift and reed skipping, and warp shrinkage and weft skew in the weaving process. Specifically, the regularity of the hard knots and the looseness of the internal threads within the hard knots are both ≥87.5%, and the rate of weft / warp breakage in the weaving hard knots is ≤0.6 times / 100m, achieving deep softening of the hard knots in double-core silk and reducing weaving process failures caused by hard knots; the shape retention rate is ≥90.8%, the weft drift / reed skipping rate is ≤0.6 times / 100m, and the warp shrinkage / weft skew of the raw silk is ≤0.7%, improving the shape retention ability of double-core silk and ensuring the tension uniformity and fabric forming quality during the weaving process; the yarn breakage rate is ≤0.9 times / 1000m, the number of yarn hairs is ≤22 strands / 10m, and the yarn adhesion rate is ≤5.5%, optimizing the overall processing quality of double-core silk, providing high-quality raw materials for subsequent weaving processes, and effectively improving the overall quality and production efficiency of double-core silk weaving.
[0044] In Comparative Example 1, the removal of the sericin elastic modifier in the double-fiber soaking step prevented effective loosening of the internal strands within the double-fiber hard sections, resulting in a significant decrease in the softening effect of the hard sections and a deterioration in morphological stability, yarn processing quality, and weaving-related indicators. In Comparative Example 2, the removal of the polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion in the double-fiber soaking step prevented the improvement of the modifier's hydrophilicity, leading to a decrease in the softening effect of the double-fiber hard sections and yarn processing quality, as well as corresponding process problems in the weaving stage. In Comparative Example 3, replacing the sericin elastic modifier with commercially available sericin failed to achieve deep softening of the double-fiber hard sections, resulting in a significant reduction in the regularity and looseness of the hard sections. In Comparative Example 4, the removal of the differentiated tension control and high-frequency vibration detection components in the double-fiber rewinding step made the hard sections prone to strand breakage due to excessive tension, resulting in prominent weft and warp breakage problems in the weaving hard sections, and a significant increase in yarn breakage rate and hair count. Comparative Example 5... In Comparative Example 6, due to the removal of the epoxy silane coupling agent micro-mist spraying operation in the double-silk drying step, the sericin viscosity could not be improved, the yarn adhesion rate increased significantly, and the softening of hard knots, morphological stability, and weaving-related indicators all deteriorated to varying degrees. In Comparative Example 6, due to the removal of the pre-drying and infrared heating steps after the double-silk rewinding, the modifier and sericin composite film could not be cured, the morphological retention ability of the double-silk decreased significantly, and the weft drift and reed jumping problems, as well as the warp shrinkage and weft skew of the raw silk, were more serious.
Claims
1. A processing technique for double-layered silk fabric, characterized in that, First, the raw white silk and double-silk are processed separately, and then the two types of silk are woven into silk fabric. The double-fiber processing technology includes soaking → drying → re-shaping → spinning → fiber reeling; The soaking process for double-core silk is as follows: the double-core silk is soaked in deionized water containing sericin elastic modifier and polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion, and ultrasound is turned on simultaneously. After soaking, it is rinsed with clean water and then drained naturally. The sericin elastic modifier is a silk protein hydrolysate-polyethylene oxide graft copolymer; During the drying process of double-core silk: first spray the surface of the silk with a fine mist of epoxy silane coupling agent, and then dry it. The double-core yarn rewinding process employs differentiated tension control: a high-frequency vibration detection component is installed on an elastic support. Vibration sensors capture the difference in vibration frequency between hard and non-hard yarn strands in the double-core yarn, identifying the location of the hard yarn. Upon detecting a hard yarn signal, the tension regulator is triggered to lower the rewinding tension. Once the hard yarn signal disappears, the tension regulator restores the rewinding reference tension. After the rewinding and winding are completed, the double-core yarn undergoes pre-baking and infrared heating, followed by cooling. During the double-coil spinning process: the double-coil hard nodule identification signal captured by the high-frequency vibration detection component in the re-rolling process is obtained, and graded spinning tension control is performed according to the differentiated tension in the re-rolling process; During the spinning process of double-core yarn: maintain the spinning tension consistent with the doubling tension.
2. The double-layered silk fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the double-silk soaking step, based on the mass of deionized water, the amount of sericin elastic modifier added is 0.2~0.3wt%, the amount of polydimethylsiloxane microemulsion added is 0.01~0.02wt%, the deionized water temperature is 38~42℃, the ultrasonic power is 180~220W, and the soaking time is 18~22min.
3. The double-layered silk fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, During the drying process of the double-silk fabric, when spraying the epoxy silane coupling agent micro-mist, an ultrasonic atomization and synchronous purging airflow linkage spray mode is adopted. The ultrasonic atomization power is 50~60W, and the purging airflow velocity is 0.3~0.5m / s. After spraying, the ambient temperature is adjusted to 38~40℃ and the relative humidity is reduced to 55±3%, and the drying continues until the double-silk fabric reaches the preset final moisture content.
4. The double-layered silk fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the double-wire re-rocking step, the vibration frequency of the high-frequency vibration detection component is 120~130Hz, the vibration intensity is 8~10μm, the elastic coefficient of the elastic support is 5~8N / m, and the spacing between the detection components is 2~3cm; the tension switching response time is ≤0.1s, the re-rocking hard section tension is 0.5~0.7cN / tex, and the re-rocking non-hard section reference tension is 0.9~1.1cN / tex.
5. The double-layered silk fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the double-coil re-shaping step, the pre-drying temperature is 42~45℃ and the pre-drying time is 5~6min; The infrared heating wavelength is 3.0~3.2μm, the power is 200~220W, and the infrared heating temperature is 58~62℃.
6. The double-layered silk fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the double-core yarn doubling step, the doubling tension of the section corresponding to the hard section is 0.85 to 0.9 times the tension of the hard section during rewinding, and the doubling tension of the section corresponding to the non-hard section is 0.9 to 0.95 times the tension of the non-hard section during rewinding.
7. The double-layered silk fabric processing technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, During the silk weaving process, the tension difference between the raw white silk and the double-layered silk is controlled at 0.1~0.2 cN / tex.