Hair care composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to hair care compositions for conditioning hair, in particular hair care compositions providing conditioning to hair without the use of silicones. Conditioning formulations containing silicone-based conditioning agents have raised consumer concerns despite their apparent effectiveness in making hair look full and shiny. There is still a need to provide compositions that can provide excellent conditioning performance in a sustainable way. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hair conditioning composition that provides excellent conditioning performance without the use of silicones. It has been found that by providing a conditioning system comprising a conditioning oil and an acrylate polymer having specific carbon chain length of the side chains and specific thermal properties, the conditioning performance of conditioning oils such as mineral oil, vegetable oil, and the like can be improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to hair care compositions for conditioning hair, particularly hair care compositions that provide conditioning to hair without the use of silicones. Background Technology

[0002] For many years, siloxanes have been widely used as conditioning agents in hair care products. For example, siloxane-based conditioning agents (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclic polydimethylsiloxane) are popular in hair care products because they can be used to make hair look fuller, shinier, smoother, and easier to comb.

[0003] Historically, siloxanes have been considered reliable, versatile, and highly effective hair care ingredients. However, consumers and formulators have recently become increasingly aware of the potential for bioaccumulation and buildup on hair and scalp that can sometimes result from siloxane use. The energy required to produce siloxane polymers has also become a concern. Hair care consumers now expect sustainably formulated, environmentally friendly, siloxane-free solutions that maintain superior performance compared to products traditionally formulated with siloxanes.

[0004] Therefore, despite their obvious effects in making hair look fuller and shinier, conditioning products containing siloxane-based conditioning agents have attracted consumer attention.

[0005] The use of non-siloxane-based conditioning agents, such as mineral oil and coconut oil, has been well-known for decades. However, their conditioning effects do not match those of siloxanes.

[0006] Polymers are known to provide conditioning effects. One such polymer is disclosed in US 2005 / 0169865, which discloses a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic agent, at least one oil, and at least one semi-crystalline polymer with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

[0007] However, incorporating high-melting-point waxy polymers into conditioning compositions when blended with cosmetic oils can be challenging. Providing formulations with high-melting-point polymers requires significant energy input due to the need to melt the ingredients and maintain them at controlled temperatures during formulation.

[0008] Therefore, there remains a need for compositions that can provide excellent conditioning performance in a sustainable manner without the use of siloxanes.

[0009] One object of the present invention is to provide a hair conditioning composition that provides superior conditioning performance compared to compositions containing conditioning oils such as mineral oil, vegetable oil, etc.

[0010] Another objective of this invention is to improve the conditioning properties of conditioning oils such as mineral oils and vegetable oils.

[0011] Another object of the present invention is to provide a hair conditioning composition that does not contain siloxanes.

[0012] Surprisingly, it has been found that by providing conditioning systems containing conditioning oils and acrylate polymers with specific carbon chain lengths and specific thermal properties, the conditioning properties of conditioning agents such as mineral oils and vegetable oils can be improved. Summary of the Invention

[0013] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a siloxane-free conditioning system comprising: a. Conditioning oils selected from natural oils or mineral oils; b. Polymers containing monomers of formula I Formula I in A is CO2R1; B is selected from hydrogen and methyl; R1 is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group and contains 2 to 16 carbon atoms; The polymer has a glass transition temperature of ≤25°C, as measured using dynamic mechanical analysis; and The polymer is liquid at 25°C.

[0014] In a further aspect, the present invention relates to a hair care composition comprising: The conditioning system of this invention; The conditioning gel phase comprises cationic surfactants, high-melting-point (25°C or higher) aliphatic compounds, and an aqueous carrier.

[0015] In a further aspect, the present invention relates to hair care compositions that can be obtained by blending a conditioning gel phase with a conditioning system.

[0016] In a further aspect, the present invention relates to the use of polymers comprising at least one monomer of formula I in conditioning compositions for hair without silicone conditioning. Formula I in A is CO2R1; B is selected from hydrogen and methyl; R1 is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group and contains 2 to 16 carbon atoms; The polymer has a glass transition temperature of ≤25°C, as measured using dynamic mechanical analysis; and The polymer is liquid at 25°C.

[0017] These and other aspects, features, and advantages will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description and appended claims. To avoid ambiguity, any feature of one aspect of the invention may be used in any other aspect of the invention. The word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “made of”. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. It should be noted that the examples given in the following specification are intended to illustrate the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples alone. Similarly, unless otherwise stated, all percentages are weight / weight percentages. Except in operational and comparative examples, or where explicitly stated otherwise, all figures indicating the amount of material or reaction conditions, physical properties of the material, and / or uses in this specification should be understood to be modified by the word “about”. Numerical ranges expressed in the format “x to y” should be understood to include both x and y. When multiple preferred ranges are described in the form of “x to y” for a particular feature, it should be understood that all ranges combining different endpoints are also considered. Detailed Implementation

[0018] Polyacrylate polymer This invention includes polymers comprising monomers of formula I. Formula I in A is CO2R1; B is selected from hydrogen and methyl; R1 is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group and contains 2 to 16 carbon atoms; The polymer has a glass transition temperature of ≤25°C. The glass transition temperature can be measured using dynamic mechanical analysis.

[0019] The polymer of the present invention is liquid at 25°C. Preferably, the polymer is liquid at 20°C, such as at 10°C. For example, the polymer is liquid at 5°C.

[0020] The polymer of the present invention is a homopolymer or copolymer, preferably a homopolymer. Preferably, B in Formula I is hydrogen. More preferably, the polymer is a homopolymer and B is hydrogen.

[0021] R 1 It is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group. More preferably, R 1 It is an alkyl group.

[0022] Preferably, R 1 It contains up to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably up to 12 carbon atoms. Typically, R... 1 It contains at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0023] Preferably, when B is hydrogen and R 1 When it is a linear chain, R 1 It contains 2 to 14 carbon atoms. Alternatively, when B is hydrogen and R... 1 When it is a branch, R 1 It contains 5 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, when B is a methyl group, R... 1 It contains 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0024] The polymer can be a copolymer, as long as it meets the glass transition temperature and state requirements. When the polymer is a copolymer, preferably at least 50% of the polymer consists of monomers of Formula I or substantially consists of monomers of Formula I. More preferably, at least 70%, such as at least 75%, at least 80%, at least 90%, at least 95%, or at least 99%, of the polymer consists of monomers of Formula I or substantially consists of monomers of Formula I. In some embodiments, the copolymer consists of monomers of Formula I or substantially consists of monomers of Formula I.

[0025] Preferably, the copolymer further comprises at least one monomer of formula II: Formula II in D is CO2R2; E is selected from hydrogen and methyl; R2 is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group and contains 2 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0026] Preferably, R2 is linear or branched. In some preferred embodiments, the copolymer consists of monomers of Formula I and Formula II, or is substantially composed of monomers of Formula I and Formula II. For example, the copolymer consists of, or is substantially composed of, monomers of Formula I in which R1 contains 2 to 12 carbon atoms and monomers of Formula II in which R2 contains 2 to 22 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the average length of the side chains in the copolymer is less than 20 carbon atoms, such as less than 18 carbon atoms, less than 15 carbon atoms, and preferably less than 12 carbon atoms.

[0027] Preferably, up to 50% of the copolymer consists of monomers of Formula II or is substantially composed of monomers of Formula II. More preferably, up to 30%, such as up to 25%, up to 20%, up to 10%, up to 5%, or up to 1%, of the polymer consists of monomers of Formula II or is substantially composed of monomers of Formula II.

[0028] In some preferred embodiments, the copolymer consists of at least 75% of monomers of Formula I and at most 25% of monomers of Formula II, or is substantially composed of them.

[0029] Preferably, the copolymer comprises a monomer in which B is hydrogen and a monomer in which B is methyl. Preferably, the copolymer consists of monomers according to Formula I or substantially consists of monomers according to Formula I.

[0030] In some embodiments, the polymer comprises one or more monomers selected from ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate, pentyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, heptyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, nonyl acrylate, isononyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, propylheptyl acrylate, undecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, tetradecyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, isoamyl methacrylate, hexyl methacrylate, heptyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, 2-propylheptyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, undecyl methacrylate, dodecyl methacrylate, tetradecyl methacrylate, and hexadecyl methacrylate.

[0031] Preferably, the polymer is poly(hexyl acrylate), poly(2-ethylhexyl acrylate), poly(nonyl acrylate), poly(decyl acrylate), poly(undecaacrylate), or poly(dodecaacrylate).

[0032] In some embodiments, the polymer further comprises one or more monomers selected from hexadecyl acrylate, octadecyl acrylate, octadecyl methacrylate, behenyl acrylate, and behenyl methacrylate.

[0033] The weight-average molecular weight of the polymers of the present invention is preferably less than 8,000,000 Da, such as less than 7,500,000 Da, more preferably less than 7,000,000 Da, even more preferably less than 500,000 Da, even more preferably less than 400,000 Da, for example less than 350,000 Da, but generally greater than 5,000 Da, preferably greater than 6,000 Da, preferably greater than 7,000 Da, preferably greater than 20,000 Da, preferably greater than 30,000 Da, and most preferably greater than 35,000 Da, as measured using gel permeation size exclusion chromatography. For the avoidance of doubt, the unit Dalton (Da) is also referred to as the unified atomic mass unit (u). Preferably, GPC is calibrated using poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA).

[0034] The number-average molecular weight of the polymers of the present invention is preferably less than 80,000 Da, for example less than 70,000 Da, more preferably less than 50,000 Da, even more preferably less than 30,000 Da, but generally greater than 5,000 Da, preferably greater than 6,000 Da, more preferably greater than 7,000 Da, and more preferably greater than 10,000 Da, as measured using gel permeation size exclusion chromatography. For the avoidance of doubt, the unit Dalton (Da) is also referred to as the unified atomic mass unit (u). Preferably, GPC is calibrated using poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA).

[0035] Preferably, the polymer is synthesized by free radical polymerization (FRP) or emulsion polymerization. Most preferably, free radical polymerization is used to synthesize the polymer.

[0036] In the hair care compositions according to the invention, such as wash-off conditioner compositions, the polymer may be present at a concentration of 0.001 to 5% by weight of the composition. Preferably, it is at least 0.01% by weight of the composition, more preferably at least 0.02%, even more preferably at least 0.05%, but generally not exceeding 3%, preferably not exceeding 2.5%, more preferably not exceeding 2%, even more preferably not exceeding 1%, and even more preferably not exceeding 0.5%.

[0037] In this application, "monomer" can be defined as a molecule that polymerizes to form a polymer, such as ethyl acrylate. In this application, monomer can also refer to a repeating structural unit provided by molecules in the polymer structure after polymerization, such as formula I or II.

[0038] Conditioning oil The conditioning oils used in this invention are selected from mineral oils or natural oils or combinations thereof, such as vegetable oils.

[0039] Preferably, the melting point of the conditioning oil is below 35°C, more preferably below 30°C, and even more preferably below 28°C.

[0040] As understood by those skilled in the art, natural oils in the case of conditioning oils are cosmetic oils derived from plants, seeds, nuts, and fruits, suitable for providing lubrication to hair. Typically, natural oils have a melting point below 35°C, for example below 30°C, more preferably below 28°C.

[0041] Non-limiting examples of natural oils that may be used include sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, moringa oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, almond oil, and crabapple seed oil, as well as squalane.

[0042] In some embodiments, the conditioning oil is preferably a fatty acid ester oil formed from fatty acids and alcohols. Preferably, the conditioning oil comprises fatty acid esters formed from polyols, such as triglycerides. Preferably, the conditioning oil comprises triglycerides containing fatty acyl chains with a carbon chain length of 10 to 18 carbon atoms. The portion having a fatty acyl chain of 10 to 18 carbon atoms is preferably in the range of 45 to 95% by weight, more preferably 55 to 95% by weight, and more preferably 65 to 95% by weight, calculated based on the total fatty acyl chain content of the triglycerides. Preferably, the conditioning oil comprises triglycerides with 15 to 60 carbon atoms, more preferably 30 to 55 carbon atoms.

[0043] In some embodiments, the conditioning oil is a triglyceride-based vegetable oil, such as sunflower oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, crabapple seed oil, palm oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, castor oil, or cereal germ oil, such as wheat germ oil. Preferably, the conditioning oil is sunflower oil or coconut oil.

[0044] In some embodiments, preferably, the conditioning oil is a hydrocarbon oil. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil contains a carbon chain of 10 to 50 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil contains a substantially saturated carbon chain, which may be straight or branched. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil has 15 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably no more than 30 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the conditioning oil is squalane.

[0045] Squalane from various sources, whether plant-based or otherwise, is suitable for use in this invention.

[0046] As those skilled in the art will understand, mineral oil in the case of conditioning oils is a petroleum-derived liquid suitable for providing lubrication to hair. Typically, mineral oils have a melting point below 25°C, for example below 10°C, more preferably below 0°C.

[0047] Non-limiting examples of mineral oils that may be used include highly refined white mineral oils such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, isododecane, isohexadecane, and several cosmetic-grade oils with different chain length distributions and viscosities, such as Parol™ or Lytol™ white mineral oils from Sonneborn, Netherlands.

[0048] In addition to the conditioning oil of the present invention, further conditioning oils may be used in the conditioning system. For example, the conditioning system may contain synthetic oils. Non-limiting examples of synthetic oils that may be used include those selected from hydrogenated polydecene, poly(α-olefin), transesterified vegetable oils, and squalane.

[0049] Further non-limiting examples of synthetic oils that may be used include oil-derived emollient esters, such as isononyl isononanoate and dioctyl dodecanoate, and low molecular weight terpene-derived liquid polymers, such as those commercially available from P2 Science Inc. of Woodbridge, Connecticut, USA, in the Citropol™ series, such as Citropol™ 1A or Citropol™ HA, or Bioestolide™, such as Bioestolide™ 1300 from Biosynthetic® Technologies of Indianapolis, USA.

[0050] Preferably, the conditioning oil according to the present invention is a natural oil or a mineral oil.

[0051] Preferably, the conditioning oil is selected from vegetable oils and / or hydrocarbon oils with a melting point below 35°C, more preferably below 30°C, and even more preferably below 28°C. More preferably, the conditioning oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils and / or saturated hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 60 carbon atoms, or combinations thereof. More preferably, the conditioning oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils having 15 to 40 carbon atoms and triglyceride oils, or combinations thereof. More preferably, the conditioning oil is selected from one or more of sunflower seed oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, and squalane. Most preferably, the conditioning oil is sunflower seed oil.

[0052] In some embodiments, natural oils, particularly those such as sunflower oil, are particularly preferred as they are soluble in a wide range of polymers. This provides the flexibility to add the polymer and oil together as a premix or as two separate emulsions.

[0053] In the hair care compositions according to the invention, such as wash-off conditioner compositions, the conditioning oil may be present at a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition. Preferably, it is at least 0.2% by weight of the composition, more preferably at least 0.5%, even more preferably at least 1%, most preferably at least 1.2%, but generally not exceeding 3.5%, preferably not exceeding 3%, more preferably not exceeding 2.5%.

[0054] The conditioning oil may be emulsified before being included in the conditioning system and / or hair care composition, for example, the conditioning oil may be emulsified in an aqueous solvent (preferably water) before being included in the conditioning system and / or hair care composition.

[0055] conditioning system The polymer and conditioning oil in the conditioning system can be in the form of a blend, or the polymer in the conditioning system can be added separately from the conditioning oil to the composition, for example as an emulsion polymer.

[0056] Not wanting to be bound by theory, it is believed that for any conditioning oil used to condition hair, it must be present at the junction between the contact elements (e.g., two hair fibers, or hair fibers and a comb, or hair fibers and fingers). Therefore, the conditioning oil must not be completely squeezed out of the contact when touching or combing the hair. Natural / mineral-based conditioning oils have a much lower viscosity than high molecular weight conditioning silicone polymers. Therefore, under contact conditions associated with tactile assessment or combing of the hair, the oil is more likely to be squeezed out of the gap. The polymers of this invention help to retain the conditioning oil within the contact area to be treated.

[0057] In the hair care compositions according to the invention, such as wash-off conditioner compositions, the polymer and conditioning oil may be present at a total concentration of 0.1% to 5% by weight of the composition. Preferably, it is at least 0.2% by weight of the composition, more preferably at least 0.5%, even more preferably at least 1%, most preferably at least 1.2%, but generally not exceeding 3.5%, preferably not exceeding 3%, more preferably not exceeding 2.5%.

[0058] The ratio of polymer to conditioning oil in the hair care composition is preferably from 1:1 to 1:1000, more preferably from 1:1 to 1:200, more preferably from 1:3 to 1:99, even more preferably from 1:4 to 1:50, and even more preferably from 1:5 to 1:35, with the most preferred ratio being from 1:5 to 1:15, such as a ratio of 1:9.

[0059] Preferably, the polymer and conditioning oil are in the form of a blend. The blend can be formed by mechanical mixing of the oil and the polymer or by polymerization of relevant monomers dissolved in the oil.

[0060] The blend preferably contains 50% to 99.9% by weight of conditioning oil, more preferably at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 80% by weight, and even more preferably at least 90% by weight of conditioning oil, but not exceeding 99.5% by weight, such as not exceeding 98.9% by weight, and preferably not exceeding 98% by weight of conditioning oil. Most preferably, the blend contains 90% by weight of conditioning oil and 10% by weight of polymer. For example, a homopolymer blend of 90% by weight of sunflower seed oil and 10% by weight.

[0061] Preferably, the polymer-conditioning oil blend is emulsified in an aqueous solvent. Preferably, the conditioning system comprises an aqueous emulsion having an aqueous continuous phase of water and an aqueous dispersed phase containing the blend. Emulsification of the polymer-oil blend ensures localized delivery of both components to the contact to be conditioned. This is superior to the formation of separate emulsions of oil and polymer, in which case the two components may not always be present simultaneously in the contact to be lubricated.

[0062] Preferably, the conditioning system / hair care composition of the present invention comprises an emulsion of a blend of the polymer of the present invention and a conditioning oil.

[0063] Blends of polymers possessing the thermal properties of this invention can be formed more advantageously than blends containing polymers with higher glass transition temperatures and / or higher melting points. Emulsification of blends of cosmetic oils with high-melting-point waxy polymers is challenging and can lead to undesirable results. Emulsions of waxy polymer blends become inhomogeneous during processing, making formulation difficult. Furthermore, emulsification of blends containing high-melting-point waxy polymers requires significant energy due to the need to melt the components and maintain and control the temperature.

[0064] Particle size of dispersed oil / blend One characteristic of oils or oil / polymer blends in a composition (either directly dispersed in the composition or emulsified prior to inclusion in the composition) is particle size. This can be measured, for example, by laser diffraction particle size analysis methods, which are well-proven in the art. Several parameters can be used to characterize emulsion particle size. For example, the parameter Dv(50) represents the upper limit of the particle size range, which includes 50% of the total volume of the dispersed material.

[0065] Preferably, the emulsion of the present invention (such as an emulsion of a blend of the polymer of the present invention and a conditioning oil) has a particle size of 0.5 to 20 micrometers, more preferably 1.5 to 15 micrometers, even more preferably 1.5 to 10 micrometers and most preferably 2 to 10 micrometers, as characterized by Dv(50) measured by dynamic light scattering, for example using a Malvern Instruments Mastersizer 2000 particle size analyzer (Malvern Instruments UK) with a Hydro 2000SM dispersion unit.

[0066] Conditioning gel phase In some embodiments of the present invention, hair care compositions, such as silicone-free hair care compositions, can be obtained by blending a conditioning system with a conditioning gel phase.

[0067] Preferably, the conditioning gel phase is formed from cationic surfactants, high-melting-point (25°C or higher) aliphatic compounds, and an aqueous carrier.

[0068] Examples of suitable cationic surfactants that can be used to form conditioning gel phases include quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formula: [N(R 3 (R) 4 (R) 5 )](R 6 )] + (X) - Where R 3 R 4 R 5 and R6 Each is independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic group, alkoxy group, polyoxyalkylene group, alkylamide group, hydroxyalkyl group, aryl group, or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion, such as those selected from halide ions (e.g., chloride ions, bromide ions), acetate ions, citrate ions, lactate ions, glycolate ions, phosphate ions, nitrate ions, sulfate ions, and alkyl sulfate ions.

[0069] In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, aliphatic groups can also contain ether bonds and other groups, such as amino groups. Longer-chain aliphatic groups, such as those with about 12 or more carbons, can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0070] Specific examples of such quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula are hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, docosyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), hexadecylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow-based trimethylammonium chloride, cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oil-based ammonium chloride, and their salts, wherein the chloride ion is replaced by other halide ions (e.g., bromide ions), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, or alkyl sulfate.

[0071] In the preferred category of cationic surfactants of the above general formula, R 3 It is C 16 To C 22 Saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated alkyl chains, and R 4 R 5 and R 6 Each is independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, with CH3 being preferred.

[0072] Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants for forming conditioning gel phases are hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Alternatively, primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines can be used in combination with acids to provide cationic surfactants for obtaining the conditioning gel phase suitable for use in this invention. The acid protonates the amine and forms an amine salt in situ within the hair care composition. Thus, the amine is effectively a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

[0074] Suitable fatty amines of this type include amide amines of the following general formula: R 7 -C(O)-N(H)-R 8 -N(R 9 (R) 10 ) Where R 7 It is a fatty acid chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R 8 It is an alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 9 and R 10 Each is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0075] Specific examples of suitable materials for the above general formula are stearamide propyl dimethylamine, stearamide propyl diethylamine, stearamide ethyl diethylamine, stearamide ethylenedimethylamine, palmitamide propyl dimethylamine, palmitamide propyl diethylamine, palmitamide ethyl diethylamine, palmitamide ethyl dimethylamine, behenamide propyl dimethylamine, behenamide propyl diethylamine, behenamide ethyl diethylamine, behenamide ethyl dimethylamine, arachidamide propyl dimethylamine, arachidamide propyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl diethylamine, arachidamide ethyl dimethylamine and diethylaminoethyl stearamide.

[0076] Other available alternatives include dimethyl stearylamine, dimethyl soybenicillin, oleylamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethyl stearylamine, N-tartrate diamine, ethoxylated stearylamine (using 5 moles of ethylene oxide), dihydroxyethyl stearylamine, and arachidonic docosylamine.

[0077] Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is particularly preferred.

[0078] The acid used can be any organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating amines in the hair care composition. Suitable acids include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Any mixture of the above-mentioned cationic surfactants may also be suitable.

[0080] The content of the cationic surfactant is suitably in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.25 to 4% by weight (based on the total weight of the cationic surfactant based on the total weight of the hair care composition).

[0081] In the context of the aliphatic compounds of this invention, "high melting point" generally refers to a melting point of 25°C or higher. Typically, the melting point is in the range of 25°C to 90°C, preferably 40°C to 70°C, and more preferably 50°C to about 65°C.

[0082] High-melting-point aliphatic compounds may be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high-melting-point aliphatic compounds. When a blend or mixture of aliphatic compounds is used, the melting point refers to the melting point of the blend or mixture.

[0083] Suitable aliphatic compounds of this type have the general formula RX, where R is an aliphatic carbon chain and X is a functional group (e.g., an alcohol or carboxylic acid or its derivatives, such as esters or amides).

[0084] R is preferably a saturated aliphatic carbon chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0085] In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, R may also contain ether bonds and other groups, such as amino groups. Preferably, R is a straight-chain alkyl chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0086] X is preferably a -OH group.

[0087] Most preferably, the aliphatic compound is of the general formula CH3(CH2). n The fatty alcohol of OH, wherein n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21.

[0088] Suitable examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0089] Any mixture of the above-mentioned fatty compounds may also be suitable.

[0090] The content of fatty compounds is suitably in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 0.3 to 6% by weight (based on the total weight of the fatty compounds based on the total weight of the hair care composition).

[0091] The weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the aliphatic compound is suitably 1:1 to 1:10, preferably 1:1.5 to 1:8, and most preferably 1:2 to 1:5.

[0092] The conditioning gel phase applicable to this invention can be characterized as a gel (Lβ) surfactant intermediate phase composed of a surfactant bilayer.

[0093] In a typical method for preparing such conditioning gel phases, a cationic surfactant, a high-melting-point aliphatic compound, and an aqueous support are heated to form a mixture, which is then shear-cooled to room temperature. The mixture undergoes multiple phase transitions during cooling, typically resulting in a gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase consisting of a surfactant bilayer. The bilayer can grow, swell, or fold to form extended sheets or spherical vesicles.

[0094] Preferably, the formation of the gel (Lβ) surfactant intermediate phase is controlled by maintaining the temperature of the mixture in the mixing vessel within a specified range, typically about 55 to about 67°C.

[0095] In examples of this preferred method, the aliphatic compound and the cationic surfactant can be "eutectic" in a first container to form an isotropic phase. The eutectic will typically contain 45 to 90% by weight of the general formula CH3(CH2). n Fatty alcohols of OH, wherein n is 7 to 29, preferably an integer of 15 to 21; 10 to 40% by weight of the general formula [N(R 3 (CH3)3] + (X) - Cationic surfactants, wherein R 3 It is C 16 To C 22 The eutectic contains a saturated alkyl chain and X is a halogen; and 0 to 15% by weight of water (based on the total weight of the eutectic). The eutectic in the first container is typically maintained at a temperature sufficient to keep the aliphatic compound in the liquid phase (typically about 80 to 85°C). The eutectic is then added to a second container containing water at about 50 to about 60°C, and the eutectic and water are mixed. In the second container, the temperature of the mixture of eutectic and water is controlled such that it is maintained at 56 to 65°C, preferably 58 to 62°C, more preferably about 60°C. The cationic surfactant component of the eutectic as described above may also comprise or consist of aliphatic amide amines of the following general formula: R 7 -C(O)-N(H)-R 8 -N(R 9 (R) 10 ) Where R 7 It is a fatty acid chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R 8 It is an alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 9 and R 10 Each is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. In this case, the water in the second container suitably includes 0.01 to 3% by weight of an organic or inorganic acid capable of protonating aliphatic amide amines.

[0096] In an alternative example of the preferred method, the "eutectic" (as described above) and water can be added independently to a mixing container and mixed in a continuous process, wherein the temperature of the mixture of eutectic and water is controlled by varying the temperature of the water added to the mixture. Water can be added in a single dose or in equal portions. Typically, a first water container is maintained at approximately 40°C and pumped into the mixing container, while a second water container is maintained at a sufficient temperature to vary the temperature of the water-eutectic mixture so that it falls within the desired range specified above.

[0097] In another example of the preferred method, an aliphatic compound and a cationic surfactant can be combined in an aqueous dispersion. According to this method, an aqueous dispersion is prepared, typically comprising 25 to 50 wt% water and 4 to 20 wt% of the general formula CH3(CH2). n OH fatty alcohols, wherein n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21; and 1 to 5% by weight of fatty amide amines having the following general formula: R 7 -C(O)-N(H)-R 8 -N(R 9 (R) 10 ) Where R 7 It is a fatty acid chain containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, R 8 It is an alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R 9 and R 10 Each component independently comprises an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (by weight based on the total weight of the dispersion). Preferably, the temperature of the aqueous dispersion is maintained above the melting point of the fatty alcohol, preferably at least 5°C higher. General formula [N(R 3 (CH3)3] + (X) - Cationic surfactants, wherein R 3 It is C 16 To C 22 Saturated alkyl chain, and X is halogen; can then be added and mixed into the aqueous dispersion at a level of 0.5 to 5% by weight (based on the total weight of the mixture).

[0098] Preferably, the mixing of the cationic surfactant and the aqueous dispersion is monitored by measuring viscosity, such that mixing is complete when the viscosity change is stable (typically after about 20 to 60 minutes of mixing). After mixing, the fatty amide amine is neutralized with a suitable acid as described above. Preferably, the temperature of the mixture of the aqueous dispersion and the cationic surfactant is maintained at 56 to 67°C, more preferably 58 to 65°C, and more preferably about 63°C. Preferably, this method is a batch process.

[0099] Another preferred method for preparing the conditioning gel phase suitable for the present invention includes forming a cationic surfactant (typically of the general formula [N(R)]). 3 (CH3)3] + (X) - , where R 3 C 16 To C 22 An isotropic aqueous solution of a saturated alkyl chain (where X is a halogen); and an isotropic aqueous solution of a cationic surfactant is reacted with a molten aliphatic compound (usually of the general formula CH3(CH2)). n The mixture consists of fatty alcohols of OH groups, where n is 7 to 29, preferably an integer of 15 to 21. Typically, the fatty alcohols are held at a temperature sufficient to maintain them in the liquid phase (typically about 80 to 85°C) before being added to the isotropic aqueous solution of the cationic surfactant. Preferably, the mixture of the fatty alcohols and the isotropic aqueous solution is held at a temperature of 55°C to 65°C, more preferably 58°C to 62°C, and most preferably about 60°C.

[0100] Product form and optional ingredients The hair care compositions of the present invention are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of human subjects to improve hair properties such as hair fiber lubrication and reduced friction, as well as smoothness, softness, manageability, alignment, shaping, shaping power, and shine.

[0101] Preferably, the treatment composition is selected from rinsing hair conditioners, hair masks, leave-in conditioner compositions, and pretreatment compositions; more preferably, it is selected from rinsing hair conditioners, hair masks, leave-in conditioner compositions, and pretreatment compositions, such as oil treatments; and most preferably, it is selected from rinsing hair conditioners, hair masks, and leave-in conditioner compositions. The treatment composition is preferably selected from rinsing hair conditioners and leave-in conditioners.

[0102] The hair care compositions of the present invention are generally “wash-off” compositions that are applied to the hair and then partially rinsed away.

[0103] The wash-off conditioner used in this invention is a conditioner that is typically left on wet hair for 1 to 2 minutes before being rinsed off. Typically, about 1 g to about 50 g of the composition is applied to the hair or scalp.

[0104] The hair mask used in this invention is typically left on the hair for 3 to 10 minutes, preferably 3 to 5 minutes, more preferably 4 to 5 minutes, before rinsing it off.

[0105] The leave-in conditioner used in this invention is typically applied to the hair and left on for more than 10 minutes, and preferably applied to the hair after washing and left to remain on until the next wash.

[0106] A particularly preferred product form is a conditioner for treating hair (usually after shampooing) and subsequently rinsing.

[0107] A particularly preferred use of the composition is on damaged hair, such as chemically damaged hair, especially bleached hair.

[0108] The hair care compositions of the present invention typically contain about 20% to about 95% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, more preferably at least 40% by weight, even more preferably at least 50% by weight, and even more preferably at least 60% by weight or even at least 70% by weight, but generally not exceeding 94% by weight, preferably not exceeding 93% by weight, more preferably not exceeding 92% by weight, even more preferably not exceeding 91% by weight, and even more preferably not exceeding 90% by weight or even not exceeding 80% by weight. Other organic solvents, such as lower alkyl alcohols and polyols, may also be present. Examples of lower alkyl alcohols include C1 to C6 monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Examples of polyols include propylene glycol, hexanediol, glycerol, and propanediol. Mixtures of any of the above-mentioned organic solvents may also be used.

[0109] The hair care compositions of the present invention may also be incorporated with other optional ingredients to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability. Suitable optional ingredients include, but are not limited to: preservatives, such as disodium EDTA or CIT MIT, colorants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobial agents, anti-dandruff agents, cationic conditioning polymers, styling ingredients, sunscreens, proteins, hydrolyzed proteins, emulsion stabilizers, and fiber-active substances for improving hair fiber health.

[0110] In some embodiments, the hair care composition comprises further nonionic or cationic surfactants or combinations thereof. For example, the hair care composition comprises alkoxylated alcohols, such as PEG-7 propyl heptyl ether, or quaternary ammonium surfactants, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. Based on the total weight of the hair care composition, the content of nonionic and / or cationic surfactants is suitably in the range of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, and most preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, such as 0.02% by weight.

[0111] Preferably, the hair care composition is silicone-free.

[0112] The invention will now be further described with reference to the following embodiments. In the embodiments, unless otherwise stated, all percentages are based on total weight by weight.

[0113] Example Example 1 Polymer Analysis Melting point was determined using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Using a Perkin Elmer DSC 7, DSC experiments were performed by first heating the polymer to a temperature well above its melting point (Tm) at 20 °C / min, then cooling it to 5 °C or well below the polymer's Tm at a rate of 1 °C / min, followed by a second heating at 10 °C / min, with each polymer sample weighing approximately 15 mg. A constant cooling rate ensured controlled thermal history for all polymers examined, while the second heating was used to obtain Tm. The melting point was recorded as a peak in the heat flow relative to temperature plot.

[0114] Polymer analysis was performed using dynamic mechanical analysis (DMA) and gel permeation size exclusion chromatography (GPC). DMA data were recorded on a Perkin Elmer DMA8000 equipped with a 1L liquid nitrogen dispenser. The method used involved cooling to -100°C with liquid nitrogen and then heating to 100°C at a rate of 2°C / min. Samples were run in a single cantilever mode at a frequency of 1 Hz within a stainless steel enclosure. Polymer molecular weight was characterized by tetrahydrofuran (THF) gel permeation size exclusion chromatography. All size exclusion chromatographic data were recorded on an Agilent Technologies Infinity II MDS instrument equipped with differential refractive index (Dri), bi-angle light scattering (LS), viscosity measurement (VS), and a variable wavelength UV detector. The system was equipped with 2× PLgel Mixed C columns (300×7.5 mm) and a PLgel 5 μm guard column. The mobile phase was THF stabilized with 2% triethanolamine (TEA) and 0.01% butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and run at a flow rate of 1 mL / min at 30°C. Agilent Technologies' poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) Easi-Vials were used to create a third-order calibration from DRi data between 1,568,000 and 550 g / mol. Glass transition temperature was calculated based on analysis of DMA thermograms.

[0115] Polymer Example P1: Poly(2-ethylhexyl acrylate) Poly(2-ethylhexyl acrylate) was prepared by free radical polymerization using toluene as solvent and V691 (dimethyl 2,2'-azobis(2-methylpropionate)) as initiator. 98% (Sigma Aldrich) of the 2-ethylhexyl acrylate monomer was filtered through activated alkaline alumina to remove inhibitors before the reaction. A 2:1 weight ratio of monomer to (40 ml) toluene was used with 15 mg of initiator. These were added to a 250 ml round-bottom flask and degassed with nitrogen for 30 min, followed by heating. After 12 hours, an additional 15 mg of V691 was added to increase conversion. The reaction was stirred at 70 °C for 24 h. After 24 hours, toluene and the remaining monomer were removed by rotary evaporation at 50 °C and ~5 bar. The resulting material was then transferred to a wide-mouth flask by freezing the round-bottom flask in liquid nitrogen and removing the frozen solids. It was then dried in a vacuum oven at 50 °C for 24 h.

[0116] Based on the GPC chromatogram, the weight-average molecular weight is calculated to be 79,000 g / mol, and the number-average molecular weight is calculated to be 17,300 g / mol. The glass transition temperature is calculated to be -65.6℃. The melting point is below 5℃.

[0117] Polymer Example P2: Poly(tetradecyl acrylate) Polytetradecyl acrylate was prepared via free radical polymerization using cyclohexane as solvent and Trigonox 21s (tert-butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate) as initiator. Tetradecyl acrylate monomer (TCI Chemical UK Ltd., Oxford) was filtered through activated alkaline alumina to remove the monomethyl ether hydroquinone inhibitor prior to the reaction. A 70 / 30 weight ratio of cyclohexane solvent, tetradecyl acrylate monomer, and initiator (13 mol% relative to monomer) was placed in a round-bottom flask equipped with a stir bar, sealed with a suba-seal, and purged with nitrogen for 1 hour before the start of the experiment. The temperature was then set to 80°C. The reaction was monitored by periodic sampling using a 1 mL degassing syringe. The polymer in the solvent was collected after 21 hours. Finally, the solvent was removed by rotary evaporation.

[0118] Based on the GPC chromatogram, the weight-average molecular weight is calculated to be 130,000 g / mol, and the number-average molecular weight is calculated to be 65,000 g / mol. The polymer's melting point and glass transition temperature are both below 25°C.

[0119] Polymer Examples P3 to P6: Poly(dodecyl acrylate), Poly(hexyl acrylate), Poly(n-butyl acrylate), and Poly(isobutyl acrylate) Poly(dodecyl acrylate), poly(hexyl acrylate), poly(n-butyl acrylate), and poly(isobutyl acrylate) were each prepared by free radical polymerization using the same method as described in Polymer Example P1. However, dodecyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, or isobutyl acrylate were used instead of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate as monomers.

[0120] For poly(dodecyl acrylate) (P3), the weight-average molecular weight was calculated to be 59,800 g / mol and the number-average molecular weight was calculated to be 16,900 g / mol based on the GPC chromatogram. The glass transition temperature was calculated to be -4°C from the DMA thermogram. The melting point was found to be below 5°C.

[0121] For poly(hexyl acrylate) (P4), the weight-average molecular weight was calculated to be 72,500 g / mol and the number-average molecular weight was calculated to be 15,100 g / mol based on the GPC chromatogram. The glass transition temperature was calculated to be -62.6℃ from the DMA thermogram. The melting point was found to be below 5℃.

[0122] For poly(n-butyl acrylate) (P5), the weight-average molecular weight was calculated to be 111,200 g / mol and the number-average molecular weight was calculated to be 29,600 g / mol based on the GPC chromatogram. The glass transition temperature was calculated to be -49.2℃ from the DMA thermogram. The melting point was found to be below 5℃.

[0123] For poly(isobutyl acrylate) (P6), the weight-average molecular weight was calculated to be 111,700 g / mol and the number-average molecular weight was calculated to be 23,300 g / mol based on the GPC chromatogram. The glass transition temperature was calculated to be -45.5℃ from the DMA thermogram. The melting point was found to be below 5℃.

[0124] Comparative polymer example PA: poly(octadecyl acrylate) Poly(octadecyl acrylate) was prepared by free radical polymerization using the same method as described in Polymer Example P2. However, octadecyl acrylate was used as the monomer.

[0125] Based on the GPC chromatogram, the weight-average molecular weight is calculated to be 83,000 g / mol, and the number-average molecular weight is calculated to be 51,000 g / mol. The polymer is crystalline at room temperature. The melting point is measured to be 50°C.

[0126] Emulsion Example EA: Sunflower Seed Oil Emulsion Sunflower seed oil from Helianthus Annus (Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany) was mechanically emulsified as follows. A T-25 Ultra Turrax Basic S2 high-shear homogenizer (IKA®-Werke GmbH&Co. KG, Staufen, Germany) equipped with an S25N-10G dispersing tool, comprising a 7.5 mm rotor housed within a 10 mm stator, was added to a stainless steel beaker. 25 g of sunflower seed oil, 24.5 g of deionized water, and 0.5 g of PEG-7-propylheptyl ether (Lutensol XP-79 from BASF) were added. The contents were mixed at 11,000 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0127] Emulsion Examples E1-E3 and EB-EC: Emulsions of polymer and sunflower oil blends. Sunflower oil from Helianthus Annus (Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany) was mechanically blended with the polymer in the amounts specified in Table 1. The blend was then emulsified as described in Example EA above. It should be noted that emulsion EC is difficult to handle and requires maintaining a temperature above 50°C during emulsification.

[0128] Table 1

[0129] Table 2

[0130] Table 3

[0131] evaluate bleach Bleaching of hair tufts is performed using the following method. For every 1.5 pounds of hair, prepare an 8400 ml solution consisting of 57% cold water, 29% peroxide (34% concentrate), and 14% ammonia (6% concentrate). Immerse the hair in the solution, initially at a pH of approximately 9.0, and let it stand for 1 hour and 45 minutes. Then wash in a light surfactant (Texapon ES2) and water at 30–35 degrees Celsius. Allow to dry at room temperature.

[0132] Tribological measurements of treated hair clusters during preparation and drying .

[0133] 2.5 g, 150 mm (6") European dark brown hair tufts (also known as samples or hair strands) (from HIP, New York) were used to test the frictional properties of the comparative and example formulations. For treatment with any formulation, the hair tufts were treated with 5 tufts of each formulation. These tufts were first washed with a simple stripping shampoo containing sodium lauryl ether sulfate and water before applying 2.5 g of the test product and kneading it into the hair tufts for one minute. The rinse after kneading was one minute with tap water set to 37°C and a flow rate of 4 liters / minute. The hair tufts were then individually untangled and combed and then dried in an oven at 50°C. To measure friction, individual 2.5 g, 150 mm hair tufts (5 replicates per product) were mounted on a flat metal block. These were held in place at either end using clamps. After securing the hair roots, each tuft was combed. The hair tufts were held under tension before securing the second clamp in place to ensure that the fibers remained stationary as the cylindrical neoprene friction probe passed through the fibers.

[0134] The tribological properties of individual hair clumps were measured in a dry state using a texture analyzer (model TA XT2i, from Stable Microsystems, Godaiming, UK). The apparatus was placed in a controlled environment at 20°C and 50% relative humidity. A cylindrical neoprene friction probe was positioned to contact the hair clump under a load of 500 g and driven forward (from root to tip) for 40 mm and then backward at a speed of 10 mm / s to produce a graph of frictional force versus distance. For each test run, the resulting hysteresis loop was integrated to produce data points in grams multiplied by millimeters. These data from all five hair clumps for each product were averaged, and the resulting average was used to represent the tribological properties of dry hair treated with the test product. Data from examples and comparative test formulations containing polymers (and oils) were compared with test data from examples containing formulations without added polymers / oils. The results are shown in Tables 4 and 5 as average frictional reductions.

[0135] result Table 4

[0136] Table 5

[0137] A high average friction reduction value is desirable because it indicates that the silicone-free formulations comprising specific conditioning systems of the present invention result in hair that is smooth to the touch, well-aligned, manageable, and easy to comb. All formulations of the present invention containing conditioning oils and polymers within the scope of the present invention exhibit improved friction reduction compared to compositions containing only conditioning oils and compositions containing polymers with thermal properties outside the scope of the present invention.

[0138] Example 2 - Hair treated with emulsion Lytol white mineral oil from Sonneborn was used as the mineral oil in Example 2.

[0139] Polymer Example P7: Polyhexyl acrylate was synthesized in mineral oil as follows: Hexyl acrylate monomer was filtered through activated alkaline alumina prior to the reaction to remove inhibitors. The monomer, toluene, and initiator (Trigonox T21S) were added to a 250 mL round-bottom flask and degassed with nitrogen for 30 minutes, followed by heating. 30 g of monomer and 70 g of mineral oil were mixed with 77 μL of T21S. After 24 hours, an additional 15 μL of T21S was added to improve conversion. The entire reaction was stirred at 70 °C. The resulting material in Example P7 was a blend of mineral oil and polyhexyl acrylate in a 70:30 mass ratio.

[0140] Emulsion Example E7: The material described in Emulsification Example P7 was emulsified as follows: 12.5 g of the material from Example P7 and 0.41 g of the nonionic surfactant Lutensol XP-79 (having C10 branched alkyl chains and 7 ethylene oxide groups forming head groups) (from BASF) were placed in a steel beaker. Deionized water was slowly added at approximately 0.5 g / min while being sheared in an UltraTurrax T25 basic homogenizer (IKA Instruments) equipped with an S25N-10G dispersing tool, which has a 7.5 mm rotor housed within a 10 mm stator and a speed capable of ranging from 110,000 to 24,000 rpm. The homogenizer was run at setting #2 until the inversion point was reached, at which point it was increased to setting #4. After inversion, the remaining water was added at a rate of approximately 5 g / min to a total of 37.06 g, and the setting was lowered back to #1. Once water is added, 0.03 g of preservative (Kathon CG from Rohm & Haas) is also added.

[0141] Emulsion Example ED: An emulsion of Lytol white mineral oil from Sonneborn was formed, containing 25% mineral oil, 0.7% Lutensol XP-79, 0.05% Kathon CG, and the balance distilled water.

[0142] Hair cluster preparation and drying process; tribological measurement of hair clusters .

[0143] Native European dark brown hair tufts (also known as samples or strands) (from IHIP, New York) were used to test the frictional properties of the comparative and example formulations. For treatment with any emulsion, five tufts of each formulation were treated. These tufts were first washed with a simple stripping shampoo containing sodium lauryl ether sulfate and water.

[0144] Before application to hair samples, each emulsion to be tested was diluted with deionized water by a calculated factor so that the amount of internal phase (containing oil and polymer) delivered to the hair sample from a 1 mL dose would be 1 mg / g hair. At the end of the shampooing and rinsing process, after untangling and combing the hair tufts, the diluted emulsion was applied to the hair tufts. Five replicate samples were prepared for each treatment. The combed hair tufts were individually and fully aligned, and excess water was squeezed out by gently pressing along the tufts from the clamped end to the free end using the gloved thumb and fingers. Each individual sample was then laid flat on aluminum foil, and the emulsion was applied drop by drop from a syringe, ensuring uniform coverage on the flat surface of the hair sample. The samples were allowed to stand and dry completely at room temperature before measuring dry friction.

[0145] For friction measurements, individual 2.5 g, 150 mm hair tufts (5 repeating tufts per product) are mounted on a flat metal block. Clamps are used to hold these in place at either end. After securing the hair roots, each tuft is combed. The tufts are held under tension before the second clamp is in place to ensure the fibers remain stationary as the cylindrical neoprene friction probe passes through them.

[0146] The tribological properties of individual hair clumps were measured in a dry state using a texture analyzer (model TA XT2i, from Stable Microsystems, Godaiming, UK). The apparatus was placed in a controlled environment at 20°C and 50% relative humidity. A cylindrical neoprene friction probe was positioned to contact the hair clump under a load of 500 g and driven forward (from root to tip) for 40 mm and then backward at a speed of 10 mm / s to produce a graph of frictional force versus distance. For each test run, the resulting hysteresis loop was integrated to produce data points in grams multiplied by millimeters. These data from all five hair clumps for each product were averaged, and the resulting average was used to represent the tribological properties of dry hair treated with the test product. Data from examples and comparative test formulations containing polymers (and oils) were compared with test data from examples containing formulations without added polymers / oils. The results are shown in Table 6 as the average reduction in friction.

[0147] Table 6

[0148] A high average friction reduction value is desirable because it indicates that the silicone-free formulations of embodiments comprising the specific conditioning system of the present invention result in hair that is smooth to the touch, well-aligned, manageable, and easy to comb. The emulsion of E7 contains a mineral oil conditioning oil and a polyacrylate polymer within the scope of the present invention. Compared to using an emulsion containing only a mineral oil conditioning oil, the example shows improved friction reduction.

Claims

1. A siloxane-free conditioning system, comprising: a. Conditioning oils selected from natural or mineral oils; and b. Polymers containing monomers of formula I Formula I in A is CO2R 1 ; B is selected from hydrogen and methyl; R1 is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group and contains 2 to 16 carbon atoms; The polymer has a glass transition temperature of ≤25°C, as measured using dynamic mechanical analysis; and The polymer is liquid at 25°C.

2. The conditioning system according to claim 1, wherein the conditioning oil is a natural oil selected from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, moringa oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, almond oil, and crabapple seed oil, as well as squalane.

3. The conditioning system according to claim 1, wherein the conditioning oil is a vegetable oil and / or hydrocarbon oil with a melting point below 35°C.

4. The conditioning system according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein R 1 It contains at least 4 carbon atoms.

5. The conditioning system according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein R 1 It contains 14 or fewer carbon atoms.

6. The conditioning system according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer is a homopolymer.

7. The conditioning system according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polymer is a copolymer.

8. The conditioning system according to claim 7, wherein at least 75% of the polymer consists of monomers of formula I or substantially consists of monomers of formula I.

9. The conditioning system according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the polymer is a copolymer and comprises, in addition to the monomers of formula I, monomers of formula II: Formula II in D is CO2R2; E is selected from hydrogen and methyl; R2 is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group and contains 2 to 22 carbon atoms.

10. The conditioning system according to claim 9, wherein up to 25% of the polymer consists of monomers of formula II.

11. The conditioning system according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the polymer to the conditioning oil is 1:1 to 1:1000, preferably 1:1 to 1:

200.

12. The conditioning system according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer and the conditioning oil are in the form of a blend.

13. The conditioning system of claim 12, wherein the conditioning system comprises an aqueous continuous phase having water and an aqueous emulsion containing the blended dispersed phase.

14. A silicone-free hair care composition comprising: The conditioning system according to any one of claims 1 to 13; The conditioning gel phase comprises cationic surfactants, high-melting-point (25°C or higher) aliphatic compounds, and an aqueous carrier.

15. Use of the polymer according to any one of claims 1 to 13 in a siloxane-free conditioning composition for hair.

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