Specially designed braided hose

Abstract

A method of forming a braided component (31) for an article of clothing or footwear with a braiding machine (57), comprising: (a) braiding a plurality of braiding yarns (12) to form the braided component having a tubular structure; (b) introducing a plurality of axial threads (13) into the tubular structure during braiding, wherein at least two different types of axial threads are introduced into the braided component; and (c) wherein the braiding angle (91) is varied along an axial direction of the braided component (31).

Description

1. Technical area

[0001] The present invention relates to methods for producing a braided hose with specially designed properties for applications in clothing and footwear. 2. State of the art

[0002] The comfort and functionality of clothing or footwear depends on many factors. For example, shoes must provide a sufficient level of support for a specific type of activity such as walking, running, climbing, playing football, cycling, etc. The level of support required depends on the region of the foot; for example, the metatarsal region often requires a greater level of support than the toe region. Other relevant properties of footwear or any type of clothing are the breathability of the material, water permeability, and weight. In footwear, the upper plays a key role in determining these properties. It is therefore of great importance to design the properties of an upper or a garment for a specific need.

[0003] For example, specially designed knits and woven fabrics can be used in footwear to vary the stiffness of a shoe by varying the knit and weave structure. However, braiding allows for a geometric arrangement and a variety of braids to achieve performance and configurability not possible with specially designed knits or woven fabrics.

[0004] A shoe upper can be produced by inserting a shoe last into a braiding machine and braiding it over the last while the last is fed through the braiding machine. Another way to produce a braided upper for a shoe is to braid it over a forming mandrel located near the braiding zone, also called the braiding point, of a braiding machine. In a second step, a shoe last is inserted into the braided part to form the braided part.

[0005] US 8,757,038 B2 discloses a method for producing a shoe upper, in particular a sports shoe, with increased wearing comfort. The method comprises feeding a shoe last that corresponds to the inner shape of the upper of the shoe to a radial braiding machine with an annular creel designed for weaving and / or braiding along three axes; guiding the at least one shoe last through the center of the creel and simultaneously weaving and / or braiding along three axes using a fiber material around the outer periphery of the shoe last; and terminating the weaving and / or braiding and removing the woven and / or braided material from the shoe last.

[0006] US 2016 / 0 345 677 A1 discloses a braiding machine and a method for producing an upper part, which comprises braiding over a molding strip that runs from a first side of a braiding point to a second side of the braiding point.

[0007] US 2016 / 0 166 007 A1 discloses a method for manufacturing a footwear item, in which a midsole structure is temporarily attached to a last and the midsole structure and last are passed through a braiding machine. This results in a braided structure in the form of an upper. The upper contains a midsole structure arranged in an internal cavity of the upper.

[0008] US 2016 / 0 345 676 A1 discloses a method for manufacturing a braided upper, comprising: disposing a forming mandrel over a braiding point of a braiding machine; braiding a plurality of yarns to form a three-dimensional braided component; pulling the braided component over the forming mandrel; and inserting a last into the braided component to form the braided component.

[0009] US 2016 / 0 345 674 A1 discloses a footwear item comprising multiple braided components. The braided components may be braided yarns made of various tensile elements. The tensile elements may have different cross-sections. The tensile elements may be made of different materials. Various braided strands can then be braided over a last to form a braided upper for the footwear item.

[0010] US 2016 / 0 345 675 A1 discloses an upper for a footwear item comprising various braided parts. The upper can be formed by incorporating a first braided part with a second braided part. The upper part of the upper can comprise the first braided part. The lower part of the upper can comprise the second braided part.

[0011] US 2015 / 0007451 A1 discloses footwear with a braided upper having a one-piece braided structure. The one-piece braided structure of the braided upper can be designed with specific features tailored to the respective activities. Different areas of the upper can have different braid configurations. For example, higher braid densities can be used in certain areas of the footwear to provide additional structural support or compression. Furthermore, strands of a different material can be incorporated into different areas of the braided upper to impart specific properties to the shoes in those areas.

[0012] However, these existing methods for producing braided shoe uppers have several disadvantages. Braiding over a shoe last is slow and mechanically complicated due to the complex shape of a shoe last. Braiding over a forming mandrel is similarly slow. The costs of both production methods are high because the daily production of an expensive braiding machine, which typically also requires a large amount of space to accommodate such a machine, is rather low. Furthermore, expensive shoe lasts must be produced to accommodate every shoe size and style.

[0013] Another disadvantage of existing processes is that it is difficult to modularize the production process, as the shoe last and the braiding machine must be located at the same location. As a further consequence, it is difficult to produce customized components using existing processes. Furthermore, a braided component produced using existing processes cannot easily be used for applications outside of footwear.

[0014] The objective of the present invention is to produce a braided component with low weight and high mechanical performance that can be designed to enable a wide variety of applications in clothing and footwear with only minor modifications. This special design should also enable a more modular production process, so that a product based on the braided component can be customized more easily than with existing methods. Furthermore, the production process should be faster and more cost-effective than previous methods. 3. Summary of the invention

[0015] The above-mentioned disadvantages are at least partially solved by a method for forming a braided component according to claim 1.

[0016] The present invention relates to a method for forming a braided component for a garment or footwear with a braiding machine, comprising: (a) braiding a plurality of braiding yarns to form the braided component with a tubular structure; (b) incorporating a plurality of axial yarns into the tubular structure during braiding, wherein at least two different types of axial yarns are incorporated into the braided component.

[0017] Braiding is the interlacing of three or more yarns so that they intersect and are laid together in a non-parallel formation to form a narrow strip with a flat or tubular structure. Braiding allows for a geometric arrangement of triaxial braids that is not possible with weaving or knitting.

[0018] An axial yarn, sometimes called a stay yarn or longitudinal yarn, runs along an axial direction (also called the lengthwise or longitudinal direction) of the tubular structure. Each type of axial yarn comprises one or more axial yarns. A tubular structure, or tube, is defined here as a cylinder-like structure that may exhibit deviations from a mathematically perfect cylinder. These deviations may be intentional or due to technical imperfections in the manufacturing process. Braiding yarns bind the axial yarns into a tubular structure. The resulting tube may be quite stiff in the axial direction but may be stretchable and elastic in the radial direction.

[0019] The hose can also be designed to provide at least two different stress-strain regimes. In the first regime, the hose follows an essentially linear stress-strain relationship; here the material is essentially elastic or compliant, and when the hose is pulled, the restoring force is essentially proportional to the extension from equilibrium. In the first regime, the hose essentially behaves like a spring, obeying Hooke's law. In the second regime, the hose obeys an essentially nonlinear stress-strain relationship, and the restoring force increases more rapidly with extension from equilibrium than in the first regime. The transition point between these two regimes can be referred to as "lock-out." This behavior can have a beneficial technical effect in clothing or footwear.For example, the first regime may be designed so that the player can comfortably insert his foot into a shoe that includes the specially designed tube, and the tube is sufficiently elastic to allow the player to walk comfortably, but the tube is designed so that when the player wants to change direction, the shoe is stiff and provides sufficient support for the player's foot.

[0020] There are other important advantages to this process. Firstly, the incorporation of a plurality of at least two different types of axial yarn into the braided component allows a greater degree of design of the properties of the braided component than could otherwise be achieved. The axial yarns can be easily varied, e.g., for different models of the braided component. It is possible to use radically different types of axial yarns in close proximity to one another without disturbing the manufacturing stability of the braided component. Radically different axial yarns are axial yarns whose properties differ significantly. These properties include, for example, composition, tex value, elasticity, flexural rigidity, coating, cross-sectional area and melt yarn content. This is a distinct advantage over weaving or knitting, where this would not be possible.In weaving or knitting, the use of radically different yarns would lead to defects such as creasing. Furthermore, the yarns need to be more flexible in knitting because the yarns themselves are bent during the knitting process. In braiding, the yarns are not bent during the braiding process, so the yarns can be stiffer and thus a wider variety of yarns can be used. Furthermore, in weaving and knitting, the choice of yarn is often determined by needle density or reed density. This would make it difficult to mix fine and coarse yarns. In braiding, each bundle is completely independent; there are no common eyelets or densities that the yarn must pass through. The only requirement is that the yarns can pass over and under each other with some frictional contact.Second, the properties of the braided component can be designed such that no mandrel or shoe last is required as the upper for a footwear during the braiding process. This can increase the production speed of a braided upper and reduce the cost of a braided upper compared to an upper produced using existing processes.

[0021] Another advantage over braiding over a last is that it increases the modularity of the production process. For example, one or more braided components can be wound onto a spool and transported to another location for further assembly. This process could also be used to produce only part of an upper part, e.g., a hose section with high stiffness in a radial direction.

[0022] The suitability and advantages of this production process are not limited to the manufacture of uppers for footwear. A braided component produced in this way could also be used for clothing, such as sleeves or socks.

[0023] The selection of yarns and the number of spools used in the braiding arrangement determine the standard diameter of the resulting braided hose and prevent the hose from collapsing. For a given braiding angle, the required yarn diameter and the number of spools used are inversely dependent. The fewer spools used for braiding, the higher the tex or denier value of the yarn must be. The opposite is also true, as a finer yarn requires more spools to achieve the same resting diameter of the hose. For example, on a machine with 64 spools for braiding and 32 spools for axial yarns, braiding yarns of preferably at least 12 tex, preferably at least 18 tex, would have to be used. The yarns can have a non-circular cross-section, also called lenticular, e.g.The yarns may have an ellipsoidal cross-section with a first axis having a first diameter and a second axis having a second diameter. Alternatively or in addition to a yarn, a ribbon or strip may also be used.

[0024] The fill space or cover factor of a yarn is the yarn's volume. This fill space determines the density of the tube wall. If the fill space is too small, the density of the tube is too low, and a forming mandrel is required. If the fill space is large enough, the specially designed tube can retain its shape during braiding (and afterward, even without further treatment), thus eliminating the need for a forming mandrel.

[0025] A first type of axial yarn may have a different composition than a second type of axial yarn. Here, a different composition may comprise a different material such as cotton, polyester, nylon, polypropylene, polybutylene terephthalate, elastane, cellulose, Kevlar, other polyamides, PET, or combinations thereof. These materials are lightweight and can be easily processed with a braiding machine. A different composition could also mean multifilament on the one hand and monofilament yarn on the other. This improves the properties of the braided component. A different composition can be used, for example, to change the properties of the braided component according to its breathability or water resistance.

[0026] A first type of axial yarn may have a different tex value than a second type of axial yarn. This is an alternative or additional way to design the properties of the braided component. For example, it may be advantageous to use yarns of the same material so that certain properties, such as friction, are the same, but it remains possible to design the properties of the braided component with a different tex value. Varying the tex value allows the stability and strength of the braided component to be designed.

[0027] A first type of axial yarn may have a different elasticity and / or flexural rigidity than a second type of axial yarn. This is another alternative or additional way to design the properties of the braided component. For example, a first type of yarn could have less elastic yarn, while a second type of yarn could have more elastic yarn, to design the elasticity of the material. Alternatively or additionally, a first type of axial yarn may have a higher flexural rigidity than a second type of axial yarn to construct one part of the braided component that is substantially rigid and another part that is substantially flexible.

[0028] The arrangement of the axial yarns can vary around the circumference of the tubular structure of the braided component. Such an arrangement would make it possible to achieve a particularly good fit and comfort of the footwear or clothing. For example, the use of elastic yarns on one side of the tube and less elastic yarns on the opposite side results in a non-cylindrical structure when the braiding tension is released and the elastic yarns deform the shape. The mechanical properties can additionally or alternatively vary in other ways around the circumference of the tubular structure, such as through its flexural rigidity. The density of the axial yarns can vary around the circumference of the braided component. For example, the braided component can develop a left / right and / or up / down bend that adapts to the anatomical shape of a body part, e.g.A left or right foot, without the need for a molding tool such as a shoe last. Furthermore, a desired level of structural support can be achieved for each part of the braided component to improve the performance of the final product and / or the feedback experienced by the athlete.

[0029] The braiding yarns bind the axial yarns into a tubular structure and can be finer than the axial yarns. By selecting the properties of the braiding yarns, such as composition, elasticity, Tex value, or flexural rigidity, it is possible to determine the degree of radial elasticity of the tubular structure and improve its comfort and functionality.

[0030] The braid angle can be varied along an axial direction of the braided component. The braid angle is the angle between the direction of the braiding yarns and the axial braiding direction. Varying the braid angle results in different mechanical properties along the length of the hose. A region with a low braid angle, preferably between 15° and 45°, is slightly radially extensible and can allow for elongation during dynamic movement. A region with a high braid angle, preferably between 46° and 80°, in contrast, is less radially extensible and stiffer. At a very high braid angle, the braided yarns lock (jamming) in the non-axial direction. Locking occurs at the point where there is no longer any natural expansion from the structure of the braid and further expansion is associated with the stretching of the filaments and yarns within it.In the case of a shoe upper, this locking can be used in areas where stability is required to complement or replace reinforcement structures.

[0031] The braiding yarns and / or the axial yarns may comprise at least one melting yarn. Melting yarns melt at a specific temperature, which is preferably lower than the decomposition temperature of other yarns in the braid. The use of a melting yarn has the advantage that selected yarns can be melted and fused at a specific temperature.

[0032] A first type of axial yarn may be arranged in a first region of the braided component, but not in a second region, and a second type of axial yarn may be arranged in the second region, but not in the first region. By deliberately selecting one type of axial yarn for a specific region and a different type for another region, it is possible to locally modify the properties of the braided component. In this way, a particularly good fit, comfort, and improved functionality of the footwear or apparel can be achieved.

[0033] The braiding of the braided component may be performed over a substantially cylindrical shape. A substantially cylindrical shape is any shape that closely resembles a cylinder and is not limited to a mathematically perfect cylindrical shape. The shape may contain deviations from a perfect cylinder due to imperfections in the manufacturing process or deliberate deformations from a perfect cylinder. By braiding over a substantially cylindrical shape, a desired braid diameter can be achieved that may be larger than the natural void determined by the space of the total yarns used. Braiding is preferably performed in the lengthwise (or axial) direction of the substantially cylindrical shape.

[0034] The substantially cylindrical shape may include a fusible component, and the method may further include the step of melting the fusible component after braiding the braided component over the fusible component, so that the braided component and the fusible component form an integral unit. This improves the stability of the formed integral unit, also referred to as a braided component. Furthermore, the braided component is more watertight.

[0035] The braiding machine may contain multiple yarn carriers arranged in a creel, with one set of yarns rotating clockwise and a second set of yarns rotating counterclockwise. The braiding yarns are brought together, and the overlap of the yarns creates a braided structure. The speed at which the yarn bundles move through one rotation is the braiding speed. The braiding machine can accommodate axial yarns, which can come from the same bundle arrangement as the braiding yarns or from a separate creel arrangement.

[0036] The braided component can be pulled by a mechanical device (also called a "take-up device") at a speed ("take-up speed"). The take-up device can be a reel, a roller system, or a robotic system with multi-axis control. Varying the ratio of take-up to braiding speed is possible. This, together with the yarn tension, can influence the braid angle and thus the mechanical properties of certain areas of the hose. The take-up device can contain some directly heated surfaces to melt certain areas of the braid to fix the structure and prevent the braid from unraveling during cutting. The take-up device can also include a take-off roller located near a braid formation zone, which prevents longitudinal transmission of tension while also providing variation in the braid angle.

[0037] Various braiding machines can be used to produce the hose. A so-called "maypole braiding machine," in which the bundles are mounted in a ring around a braiding opening, could be used. With this arrangement, the axial yarns can be mounted on a conventional creel, allowing large yarn bundles to be assembled, minimizing bundle changeover time. Alternatively, a "radial braiding machine" can be used, in which the braiding and axial yarn bundles are arranged radially around the braiding zone. This arrangement minimizes the overall surface area of ​​the machine.

[0038] The braiding machine can be a 3D braiding machine. In a 3D braiding machine, the yarn bundles are mounted in a Cartesian grid arrangement, whereby the direction of the yarns is not necessarily linear. In a 3D braiding machine, the yarn bundles can move freely in a two-dimensional plane, in contrast to maypole or radial braiding machines, where the movement of the yarn bundles is restricted to predefined paths around the braiding zone. With this arrangement, the shape and structure of the braid can be greatly influenced by the programmable movement of the yarns. This has the advantage that yarns can be positioned in ways that are not possible with other braiding machines such as radial braiding machines or axial (maypole) braiding machines. The use of a 3D braiding machine also makes it possible for stationary yarns to become braiding yarns at a specific location, and vice versa.This process also allows the introduction and subsequent concealment of color in different areas of the braided component through the possibility of "parking" yarns in places where they are no longer part of the braid. In this way, it is possible for an axial yarn to begin or end at some point in the lengthwise direction of the hose. For example, axial yarns of a first type can be arranged in a first area that is separated lengthwise, i.e. axially, from a second area containing axial yarns of a second type. In addition to colored yarns, stiffness areas can also be introduced in this way by braiding in a stiff element such as Kevlar or other polyamides.

[0039] The method may further comprise the step of molding an upper of the footwear comprising the braided component manufactured as described herein. An upper molded from this braided component provides a particularly good fit, excellent mechanical properties, and low weight.

[0040] The first area may be located in a lower area of ​​the upper, and the second area may be located in an instep area of ​​the upper. In such an arrangement, it is easy to meet the different requirements for an upper in a lower area and an instep area. For example, an upper in a lower area does not need to be particularly waterproof, as the sole is the most important element for waterproofing the lower foot. Instead, high breathability may be desired for comfort. In an instep area, on the other hand, the upper is the primary element for protecting the foot from dirt and rain, so good waterproofing may be necessary. Likewise, the upper is the primary element that supports the wearer's foot in the instep area, so a stable but flexible braided section may be required in the instep area.Because the lower portion of the upper is attached to a sole in a footwear, the lower portion of the upper does not need to support the wearer's foot and may therefore be less stable and could incorporate a soft cushioning material for improved comfort.

[0041] The first region can be located in a lateral and / or medial region of the upper, and the second region can be located in an instep region of the upper. Such an arrangement makes it easy to accommodate the different requirements of an upper in a lateral and / or medial region on the one hand and an instep region on the other. For example, a foot typically requires more support in a lateral or medial region than in an instep region.

[0042] The first region can be arranged in a lateral region of the upper, and the second region can be arranged in a medial region of the upper. Such an arrangement makes it easy to meet the different requirements for an upper in a lateral region on the one hand and a medial region on the other. The use of elastic yarns in a medial region of the upper and inflexible yarns on the lateral region of the upper results in a natural curvature that essentially corresponds to the human foot when the braiding tension is released.

[0043] The method may further comprise the steps of arranging the braided component on a last and consolidating the lasted braided component. In addition to the advantages mentioned elsewhere, a braided component as described here has the advantage that a standardized last can be used during lasting, which does not have to cover every shoe type or size, such as 40, 40.5, 41, 41.5, etc. in the European system or 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, etc. in the US system. Instead, the specially designed properties of the braided component enable the use of a standardized last that covers, for example, a range of shoe types and sizes, e.g. 40-42 in the European system or 8-10 in the US system. By arranging the braided component on a last and consolidating the lasted braided component, a particularly good fit for comfortable wearing properties can be achieved.It is also possible for the lasting and / or consolidation to take place in a branch on the basis of a last that is individually adapted to the customer.

[0044] The consolidation step may include the use of a binder, a polymer coating, and / or heating at least a portion of the braided component. This process enables the final fixation of the braided component in its woven form while maintaining sufficient elasticity, as well as preferred water resistance and breathability. By heating the braided component, it is possible to consolidate the structure at key points, e.g., when a fused yarn is incorporated into the braided component, while maintaining overall low weight and excellent breathability.

[0045] The consolidation step may involve the use of a lamination technique. Lamination techniques are useful for ensuring a watertight and uniform consolidation, thus making the laminated top visually appealing.

[0046] The lamination technique can involve the use of polyurethane, TPU, polyamide, polyolefins, or vinyl-based films. These materials have good adhesive and sealing properties, are easy to process on an industrial scale, and are low toxicity. Polyamides, such as Kevlar, are particularly useful due to their heat resistance and structural strength.

[0047] The lamination technique can include vacuum forming. Vacuum forming makes it possible to achieve a particularly waterproof and uniform lamination with a particularly attractive appearance.

[0048] The invention further relates to an upper for a footwear comprising a component manufactured as described herein.

[0049] The invention further relates to a braided component for a garment or footwear having a tubular structure, wherein the braided component has a plurality of incorporated axial yarns, and wherein at least two different types of axial yarns are incorporated into the braided component.

[0050] An axial yarn, sometimes called a stay yarn or longitudinal yarn, runs along an axial direction (also called the lengthwise or longitudinal direction) of the tubular structure. Each type of axial yarn comprises one or more axial yarns. A tubular structure, or tube, is defined here as a cylinder-like structure that may exhibit deviations from a mathematically perfect cylinder. These deviations may be intentional or due to technical imperfections in the manufacturing process. Braiding yarns bind the axial yarns into a tubular structure. The resulting tube may be quite stiff in the axial direction but may be stretchable and elastic in the radial direction.

[0051] The hose can also be designed to provide at least two different stress-strain regimes. In the first regime, the hose follows an essentially linear stress-strain relationship; here the material is essentially elastic or compliant, and when the hose is pulled, the restoring force is essentially proportional to the extension from equilibrium. In the first regime, the hose essentially behaves like a spring, obeying Hooke's law. In the second regime, the hose obeys an essentially nonlinear stress-strain relationship, and the restoring force increases more rapidly with extension from equilibrium than in the first regime. The transition point between these two regimes can be referred to as "lock-out." This behavior can have a beneficial technical effect in clothing or footwear.For example, the first regime may be designed so that the player can comfortably insert his foot into a shoe that includes the specially designed tube, and the tube is sufficiently elastic to allow the player to walk comfortably, but the tube is designed so that when the player wants to change direction, the shoe is stiff and provides sufficient support for the player's foot.

[0052] There are other important advantages of this braided component. Firstly, the incorporation of a plurality of at least two different types of axial yarn into the braided component allows a greater degree of design of the properties of the braided component than could otherwise be achieved. The axial yarns can be easily varied, e.g., for different models of the braided component. It is possible to use radically different types of axial yarns in close proximity to one another without disturbing the manufacturing stability of the braided component. Radically different axial yarns are axial yarns whose properties differ significantly. These properties include, for example, composition, tex value, elasticity, flexural rigidity, coating, cross-sectional area, and melt yarn content. This is a distinct advantage over weaving or knitting, where this would not be possible.In weaving or knitting, the use of radically different yarns would lead to defects such as creasing. Furthermore, the yarns need to be more flexible in knitting because the yarns themselves are bent during the knitting process. In braiding, the yarns are not bent during the braiding process, so the yarns can be stiffer and thus a wider variety of yarns can be used. Furthermore, in weaving and knitting, the choice of yarn is often determined by needle density or reed density. This would make it difficult to mix fine and coarse yarns. In braiding, each bundle is completely independent; there are no common eyelets or densities that the yarn must pass through. The only requirement is that the yarns can pass over and under each other with some frictional contact.Second, the properties of the braided component can be designed such that no mandrel or shoe last is required as the upper for a footwear during the braiding process. This can increase the production speed of a braided upper and reduce the cost of a braided upper compared to an upper produced using existing processes.

[0053] Another advantage over braiding over a last is that it increases the modularity of the production process. For example, one or more braided components can be wound onto a spool and transported to another location for further assembly. The braided component can also be used to produce only part of an upper part, e.g., a hose section with high stiffness in a radial direction.

[0054] The braided component can also be used for clothing such as sleeves or socks.

[0055] The selection of yarns and the number of spools used in the braiding arrangement determine the standard diameter of the resulting braided hose and prevent the hose from collapsing. For a given braiding angle, the required yarn diameter and the number of spools used are inversely dependent. The fewer spools used for braiding, the higher the tex or denier value of the yarn must be. The opposite is also true, as a finer yarn requires more spools to achieve the same non-rotating diameter of the hose. For example, on a machine with 64 spools for braiding and 32 spools for axial yarns, braiding yarns of preferably at least 12 tex, and more preferably at least 18 tex, would need to be used.

[0056] The fill space or cover factor of a yarn is the yarn's volume. This fill space determines the density of the tube wall. If the fill space is too small, the density of the tube is too low, and a forming mandrel is required. If the fill space is large enough, the specially designed tube can retain its shape during braiding (and afterward, even without further treatment), thus eliminating the need for a forming mandrel.

[0057] A first type of axial yarn may have a different composition than a second type of axial yarn. Here, a different composition may comprise a different material such as cotton, polyester, nylon, polypropylene, polybutylene terephthalate, elastane, cellulose, Kevlar, other polyamides, PET, or combinations thereof. These materials are lightweight and can be easily processed with a braiding machine. A different composition could also mean multifilament on the one hand and monofilament yarn on the other. This improves the properties of the braided component. A different composition can be used, for example, to change the properties of the braided component according to its breathability or water resistance.

[0058] A first type of axial yarn may have a different tex value than a second type of axial yarn. This is an alternative or additional way to design the properties of the braided component. For example, it may be advantageous to use yarns of the same material so that certain properties, such as friction, are the same, but it remains possible to design the properties of the braided component with a different tex value. Varying the tex value allows the stability and strength of the braided component to be designed.

[0059] A first type of axial yarn may have a different elasticity and / or flexural rigidity than a second type of axial yarn. This is another alternative or additional way to design the properties of the braided component. For example, a first type of yarn could have less elastic yarn, while a second type of yarn could have more elastic yarn, to design the elasticity of the material. Alternatively or additionally, a first type of axial yarn may have a higher flexural rigidity than a second type of axial yarn to construct one part of the braided component that is substantially rigid and another part that is substantially flexible.

[0060] The arrangement of the axial yarns can vary around the circumference of the tubular structure of the braided component. Such an arrangement would make it possible to achieve a particularly good fit and comfort of the footwear or clothing. For example, the use of elastic yarns on one side of the tube and less elastic yarns on the opposite side results in a non-cylindrical structure when the braiding tension is released and the elastic yarns deform the shape. The mechanical properties can additionally or alternatively vary in other ways around the circumference of the tubular structure, such as through its flexural rigidity. The density of the axial yarns can vary around the circumference of the braided component. For example, the braided component can develop a left / right and / or up / down bend that adapts to the anatomical shape of a body part, e.g.A left or right foot, without the need for a molding tool such as a shoe last. Furthermore, a desired level of structural support can be achieved for each part of the braided component to improve the performance of the final product and / or the feedback experienced by the athlete.

[0061] The braiding yarns bind the axial yarns into a tubular structure and can be finer than the axial yarns. By selecting the properties of the braiding yarns, such as composition, elasticity, Tex value, or flexural rigidity, it is possible to determine the degree of radial elasticity of the tubular structure and improve its comfort and functionality.

[0062] The braid angle can be varied along an axial direction of the braided component. The braid angle is the angle between the direction of the braiding yarns and the axial braiding direction. Varying the braid angle results in different mechanical properties along the length of the hose. A region with a low braid angle, preferably between 15° and 45°, is slightly radially extensible and can allow for elongation during dynamic movement. A region with a high braid angle, preferably between 46° and 80°, in contrast, is less radially extensible and stiffer. At a very high braid angle, the braided yarns lock (jamming) in the non-axial direction. Locking occurs at the point where there is no longer any natural expansion from the structure of the braid and further expansion is associated with the stretching of the filaments and yarns within it.In the case of a shoe upper, this locking can be used in areas where stability is required to complement or replace reinforcement structures.

[0063] The braiding yarns and / or the axial yarns may comprise at least one melting yarn. Melting yarns melt at a specific temperature, which is preferably lower than the decomposition temperature of other yarns in the braid. The use of a melting yarn has the advantage that selected yarns can be melted and fused at a specific temperature.

[0064] A first type of axial yarn may be arranged in a first region of the braided component, but not in a second region, and a second type of axial yarn may be arranged in the second region, but not in the first region. By deliberately selecting one type of axial yarn for a specific region and a different type for another region, it is possible to locally modify the properties of the braided component. In this way, a particularly good fit, comfort, and improved functionality of the footwear or apparel can be achieved.

[0065] The invention further relates to an upper for a footwear item comprising the braided component described herein. An upper formed from this braided component ensures a particularly good fit, excellent mechanical properties, and low weight.

[0066] The first area may be located in a lower area of ​​the upper, and the second area may be located in an instep area of ​​the upper. In such an arrangement, it is easy to meet the different requirements for an upper in a lower area and an instep area. For example, an upper in a lower area does not need to be particularly waterproof, as the sole is the most important element for waterproofing the lower foot. Instead, high breathability may be desired for comfort. In an instep area, on the other hand, the upper is the primary element for protecting the foot from dirt and rain, so good waterproofing may be necessary. Likewise, the upper is the primary element that supports the wearer's foot in the instep area, so a stable but flexible braided section may be required in the instep area.Because the lower portion of the upper is attached to a sole in a footwear, the lower portion of the upper does not need to support the wearer's foot and may therefore be less stable and could incorporate a soft cushioning material for improved comfort.

[0067] The first region can be located in a lateral and / or medial region of the upper, and the second region can be located in an instep region of the upper. Such an arrangement makes it easy to accommodate the different requirements of an upper in a lateral and / or medial region on the one hand and an instep region on the other. For example, a foot typically requires more support in a lateral or medial region than in an instep region.

[0068] The first region can be arranged in a lateral region of the upper, and the second region can be arranged in a medial region of the upper. Such an arrangement makes it easy to meet the different requirements for an upper in a lateral region on the one hand and a medial region on the other. The use of elastic yarns in a medial region of the upper and inflexible yarns on the lateral region of the upper results in a natural curvature that essentially corresponds to the human foot when the braiding tension is released.

[0069] The upper can have a braided component that has been arranged and consolidated on a last. In addition to the advantages mentioned elsewhere, a braided component as described here has the advantage that a standardized last can be used during lasting, which does not have to cover every shoe type or size, such as 40, 40.5, 41, 41.5 etc. in the European system or 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 etc. in the US system. Instead, the specially designed properties of the braided component enable the use of a standardized last that covers a range of shoe types and sizes, e.g. 40-42 in the European system or 8-10 in the US system. By arranging the braided component on a last and consolidating the lasted braided component, a particularly good fit for comfortable wearing properties can be achieved.It is also possible for the stripping and / or consolidation to be carried out in a branch on the basis of a strip that is individually tailored to the customer.

[0070] The consolidation step may include the use of a binder, a polymer coating, and / or heating at least a portion of the braided component. The finished upper thus comprises the braided component in its lashed form, maintaining sufficient elasticity while providing preferred water resistance and breathability. By heating the braided component, it is possible to consolidate the structure at key points, e.g., when a fused yarn is incorporated into the braided component, while maintaining overall low weight and excellent breathability.

[0071] The braided component can be laminated. A top section made of a laminated, braided component is particularly waterproof and has a smooth surface with minimal manufacturing defects, thus providing an attractive visual appearance.

[0072] The lamination can be polyurethane, TPU, polyamide, polyolefins, or vinyl-based films. These materials have good adhesive and sealing properties, are easy to process on an industrial scale, and are low toxicity. Polyamides, such as Kevlar, are particularly useful due to their heat resistance and structural strength.

[0073] The lamination can be vacuum-formed. Vacuum-forming makes it possible to achieve a particularly watertight and uniform lamination, thus creating a particularly attractive appearance.

[0074] The invention further relates to a shoe comprising an upper as described here and an outsole. The shoe, for example a sports shoe, comprising the upper described here is particularly lightweight and has excellent mechanical properties that can be easily adapted during the manufacturing process for a specific activity or even the individual anatomy of the customer. 4. Short description of the characters

[0075] Exemplary embodiments of the invention are described below with reference to the figures. The figures show: Fig. 1A, B: Example of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 2: Another example of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 3: Example of a braided component according to the invention; Fig. 4: Another example of a braided component according to the invention; Fig. 5: Exemplary method for manufacturing a braided component and an upper for a footwear article according to the invention; Fig. 6A, B: Example of a braiding machine; Fig. 7A, B: Example method for piling a braided component Fig. 8: Exemplary process for vacuum lamination of a braided component; Fig. 9: Example braiding pattern showing the braiding angle; Fig. 10: Example graph showing the dependence of the diameter of the braided hose on the braiding angle; and Fig. 11A, B: Example stress-strain relationship for a braided hose. 5. Detailed description of preferred embodiments

[0076] Possible embodiments of the present invention are described in the following detailed description, primarily with reference to a sports shoe. However, it is emphasized that the present invention is not limited by these embodiments. In particular, the braided component and the methods for manufacturing the braided component can be used only as part of an upper for footwear or for clothing such as sleeves or socks.

[0077] Only a few possible embodiments of the invention are described in detail below. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that these possible embodiments can be modified and combined in various ways, provided they are compatible, and that certain features can be omitted where they appear unnecessary.

[0078] Fig. Figure 1A shows an example of a shoe upper 11 according to the present invention. The upper 11 comprises a first type of axial yarns 13a and a second type of axial yarns 13b.

[0079] The first type of axial yarns 13a is arranged in a lateral region of the upper, and the second type of axial yarns 13b is arranged in an instep region of the upper. Alternatively, the first region may be located in a lower region of the upper, and the second region may be located in an instep region of the upper. Another alternative is for the first region to be arranged in a lateral region of the upper, and the second region to be arranged in a medial region of the upper. The at least two types of axial yarns may differ in their composition, such as the material from which they are formed or the type of yarn (single-filament, multi-filament, etc.). For example, the axial yarns 13b may comprise multifilament yarns of elastane, polyester, nylon, polypropylene, polybutylene terephthalate, cellulose, or combinations thereof to achieve a relatively strong, yet flexible and comfortable instep region of the upper.The axial yarns 13a may comprise a stiff element such as Kevlar and / or other polyamides, alternatively or in addition to the above-mentioned materials. In this way, a fairly stiff side part can be achieved to ensure good support for the foot. Additionally or alternatively, the first type of axial yarn may have a different Tex value than the second type of axial yarn. Additionally or alternatively, the first type of axial yarn may have a different elasticity and / or flexural rigidity than a second type of axial yarn.

[0080] Braiding yarns 12 are shaped to bind the axial yarns together to form a braided component 31. The upper is preferably arranged on a shoe last and consolidated with a binder, a polymer coating, and / or heating at least a portion of the braided component. Additionally or alternatively, the consolidation may comprise the use of a lamination technique. A laminated shoe upper is particularly waterproof, and a laminated surface is particularly smooth and therefore visually appealing. The lamination may comprise the materials polyurethane, TPU, polyamides, polyolefins, or vinyl-based films. These materials have good adhesive and sealing properties, are easy to process on an industrial scale, and have low toxicity. Polyamides, such as Kevlar, are particularly useful due to their heat resistance and structural strength.Laminating may include vacuum forming for a particularly watertight seal and a smooth and even surface that is visually appealing.

[0081] Fig. 1B shows another example of an embodiment of a shoe upper 11 according to the present invention. The upper 11 comprises axial yarns 13a, 13b, 13c and braid yarns 12a, 12b. The axial yarns 13c comprise melt-bonded yarns, while the axial yarns 13a, 13b do not comprise melt-bonded yarns. The braid yarns 12b also comprise melt-bonded yarns, while other braid yarns 12a do not comprise melt-bonded yarns. The melt-bonded yarns 12b, 13c are preferably melted after the upper has been placed on a shoe last to facilitate consolidation of the lasted upper. The advantage of an upper comprising melt-bonded yarns is that only a minimal amount of additional adhesives, sealants, or laminations is required during consolidation. In some embodiments, no additional adhesives, sealants, or laminations are required.This ensures that the top retains its excellent breathability and the resulting top is very light.

[0082] Fig. Figure 2 shows an example of an upper 11 according to the present invention. In this example, the upper comprises axial yarns 13a, 13b and braiding yarns 12. The braiding angle is the angle between the braiding direction, which is substantially parallel to the direction of the axial yarns 13a, 13b, and the direction of a given braiding yarn 12. In this embodiment, the braiding angle varies along an axial direction of the braided component. The braiding angle is smaller in the forefoot region 16, allowing for flexibility and comfort in the forefoot region. In the midfoot region 15, the braiding angle is larger, allowing for stability in the midfoot region 15.

[0083] Fig. 3 shows an example of a braided component 31. Fig. Figure 3 shows the variation of the braid angle along a longitudinal direction of the hose. The braided component comprises a first type of axial yarn 33a and a second type of axial yarn 33b. In this embodiment, the arrangement of the axial yarns 33a, 33b varies over the circumference of the tubular structure formed by the braided component 31. The braided component further comprises braiding yarns 32 that connect the axial yarns 33a, 33b to form a braided component 31.

[0084] In the exemplary embodiment of the Fig. 3, the braid angle varies along an axial direction of the braided component. The braid angle is greater in a first region 35 than in a second region 36. The resulting braided component will therefore be radially stiffer and less flexible in the first region 35 than in the second region 36.

[0085] In one example, the braided component 31 could be used to form a sock, and the rigid region 35 could be located in an ankle area of ​​the sock, while the flexible region 36 could be located in the toe area of ​​the sock. The flexible region 36 could also be located in a calf area of ​​the sock. The flexible region 36 can also be designed to be under high elastic tension while the sock is worn, creating a compression effect. This compression effect may be desired for medical and / or athletic purposes.

[0086] In another example, the braided component 31 could be used to form a sleeve and the rigid region 35 could be located in an elbow area of ​​the sleeve to prevent hyperextension of the elbow, while the flexible region 36 could be located in a forearm area of ​​the sleeve to provide comfort.

[0087] In another example, the braided component 31 could be used to form a rigid "cage" comprising only the rigid region 35 to form a portion of a shoe upper that may include additional components.

[0088] In another example, the braided component could be used to form a shoe upper and the rigid region 35 could be located in the midfoot region 15 to provide a preferred level of support and stability, while the flexible region 36 could be located in a toe region 16 and / or a heel region 14 to provide comfort.

[0089] The braided component 31 may be formed by braiding on a substantially cylindrical mold 37. However, this is optional and not an essential aspect of the present invention. The substantially cylindrical shape may have deviations from a mathematically perfect cylindrical shape due to imperfections in the manufacturing process of the cylindrical mold 37, or it may have deliberate deviations from a perfect cylinder. The substantially cylindrical mold 37 may include a fusible component. In a further step, the fusible component of the substantially cylindrical mold 37 may be heated and melted after the braided component has been braided over the substantially cylindrical mold 37 with a fusible component. The product is cooled and allowed to solidify so that the braided component and the fusible component form a unit.

[0090] This integral unit is then further processed. For example, it can be slit to produce a flat piece of lightweight and waterproof material that can be used for further processing. Further processing may involve placing the integral unit, also referred to as a braided component, on a shoe last. The lasted braided component could then be consolidated as described in the other examples, wherein consolidation may include a second heating cycle. The first type of axial yarns 13a may be of fairly high elasticity, while the second type of axial yarns 13b may be of fairly low elasticity.In this way, during the melting process of the cylindrical mold 37 or alternatively when the braided component 31 is removed from the cylindrical mold 37, the braided component 31 naturally deforms into a non-cylindrical shape with a natural up / down and / or left / right deformation due to the loss of tension.

[0091] Fig. 4 shows a longitudinal view of an example of a braided component according to the present invention. The braided component comprises a first type of axial yarn 13a and a second type of axial yarn 13b. In this example, the arrangement of the axial yarns 13a, 13b varies over the circumference of the tubular structure formed by the braided component 31. On the first side 45, only axial yarns of the first type 13a are arranged, while the second side 46 comprises axial yarns of the first type 13a and the second type 13b. In addition, the circumferential density of the axial yarns is higher on the first side 45 than on the second side 46. The braided component further comprises braiding yarns 12 that bind the axial yarns 13a, 13b together to form a braided component 31.

[0092] In one example, the braided component could be used to manufacture a shoe upper. The first side 45 can be arranged in a lateral region of the upper, and the second side 46 can be arranged in a medial region of the upper. In such an arrangement, it is easy to meet the different requirements for an upper in a lateral region on the one hand and a medial region on the other. For example, if the first type of axial yarns 13a is less elastic than a second type of axial yarns 13b, the upper acquires a natural curvature, essentially corresponding to a human foot, when the braiding tension is released.

[0093] In another example, the second type of axial yarn 13b is a fused yarn, while the first type of axial yarn 13a is not a fused yarn. The fused yarn 13b serves to permanently fix the braided component, e.g., to prevent unraveling after braiding or during consolidation.

[0094] Fig. Figure 5 shows a schematic example of a method for producing a braided component and an upper for a footwear according to the present invention. In a first step, a braiding machine 57, which may be a radial, axial, or 3D braiding machine, is used to braid a braided component 31a. The braided component comprises at least two types of axial yarns 13a, 13b and braiding yarns 12. The braiding yarns 12 are provided by a series of braiding yarn bundles 58 mounted on spools. Different types of axial yarns 13a, 13b can be provided, for example, via a number of axial yarn bundles 56 mounted on the static braiding frame. Alternatively, the axial yarn bundles 56 can be mounted from the braiding machine on a creel (not shown), with the axial yarns 13 being guided to the braiding machine via tubes or eyelets.A take-up device (not shown) can be used to pull the braided component away from the braiding zone. This is further illustrated and discussed with reference to Figures 6A and 6B.

[0095] The selection of yarns and the number of spools used in the braiding arrangement determine the standard diameter of the resulting braided hose and prevent the hose from collapsing. For a given braiding angle, the required yarn diameter and the number of spools used are inversely dependent. The fewer spools used for braiding, the higher the tex or denier value of the yarn must be. The opposite is also true, as a finer yarn requires more spools to achieve the same resting diameter of the hose. For example, on a machine with 64 spools for braiding and 32 spools for axial yarns, braiding yarns of preferably at least 12 tex, even more preferably at least 18 tex, would have to be used. The yarns can have a non-circular cross-section, also called lenticular, e.g.the yarns may have an ellipsoidal cross-section with a first axis having a first diameter and a second axis having a second diameter.

[0096] Alternatively or in addition to a yarn, a ribbon or a strip can also be used.

[0097] The fill space, or cover factor, of a yarn is the yarn's volume. This fill space determines the density of the hose wall. If the fill space is too small, the density of the hose wall is too low, and a forming mandrel is required. If the fill space is large enough, the specially designed hose can retain its shape during braiding (and afterward, even without further treatment), thus eliminating the need for a forming mandrel. This can increase the production speed of a braided component.

[0098] In a second step, the braided component 31a is placed on a shoe last 59, which can be molded according to a customized model of a customer's foot. This second process can be performed in a factory or in a store. In a third step, the applied braided component 31b is consolidated.

[0099] By arranging the braided component on a last and consolidating the lasted braided component, a particularly good fit is achieved for a comfortable fit. In addition to the advantages mentioned elsewhere, a braided component as described here has the advantage that a standardized last can be used during the lasting process, which does not have to cover every shoe type or size, such as 40, 40.5, 41, 41.5 etc. in the European system or 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 etc. in the US system. Instead, the specially designed properties of the braided component enable the use of a standardized last that covers a range of shoe types and sizes, e.g. 40-42 in the European system or 8-10 in the US system.

[0100] The consolidation step may include the use of a binder, a polymer coating, and / or heating at least a portion of the braided component. This process enables the final fixation of the braided component in its splayed form while maintaining sufficient elasticity, as well as preferred water resistance and breathability. By heating the braided component, it is possible to consolidate the structure at key points, e.g., when a fused yarn is incorporated into the braided component, while maintaining overall low weight and excellent breathability.

[0101] The consolidation step may also involve the application of a lamination technique. Lamination techniques are useful for ensuring a watertight and uniform consolidation.

[0102] The lamination technique can involve the use of polyurethane, TPU, polyamides, polyolefins, or vinyl-based films. These materials have good adhesive or sealing properties, are easy to process on an industrial scale, and are low toxicity. Polyamides, such as Kevlar, are particularly useful due to their heat resistance and structural strength.

[0103] The lamination technique can include vacuum forming. Vacuum forming makes it possible to achieve a particularly watertight and uniform lamination.

[0104] The consolidated braided component 31c can be used as an upper for a footwear, which can then be attached to an outsole by, for example, gluing, laminating, welding and / or sewing (for example, with a Strobel sewing machine) to form a lightweight shoe with high mechanical performance.

[0105] The Fig. 6A and Fig. 6B show an example of a braiding machine 57 with which a braided component according to the present invention can be produced. In this case, the braiding machine is a radial braiding machine, but an axial, maypole, or 3D braiding machine can also be used to produce a braided component according to the present invention. Braiding yarn bundles 58 are mounted in spools to feed the braiding yarns 12 to the braiding zone 55, in which the braided component 31 is formed. Several different types of axial yarns can be provided, for example, via a number of axial yarn bundles mounted on the static braiding frame (not shown). Alternatively, the axial yarn spools from the braiding machine can be mounted on a creel (not shown), with the axial yarns being fed to the braiding machine via tubes or eyelets.

[0106] A take-up device 64 draws the braided component 31 at a take-up speed. A ring 65 ensures the stability of the braiding zone 55. The take-up device 64 can be a roller or roller system, or a robotic system with multi-axis control. Varying the ratio of take-up to braiding speed is possible. This, along with yarn tension, can influence the braid angle and thus the mechanical properties of certain areas of the hose. The take-up device 64 can have several directly heated surfaces to melt specific areas of the braid to fix the structure and prevent the braid from unraveling during cutting. This arrangement eliminates the need for a forming mandrel.

[0107] Fig. 7A and Fig. 7B illustrate an exemplary method for disposing a braided component 31a onto a shoe last 59. Note that the axial yarns have been omitted for clarity. However, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that this method is fully compatible with a braided component made of axial yarns according to the present invention. The applied braided component 31b may be further consolidated as described herein to form an upper for a footwear article.

[0108] Fig. Figure 8 shows an oven that can be used for vacuum lamination of a lasted braided component 31b to produce an upper for footwear. An airtight lamination material 84 is applied to the braided component 31b. The space between the lamination material 84 and the braided component 31b is then evacuated. The lamination material may have an adhesive layer on the side facing the braided component. Additionally or alternatively, the oven can be used to supply heat to melt the lamination to ensure final attachment and a good seal. The resulting upper is particularly waterproof with a uniform lamination and a particularly attractive appearance.

[0109] Fig. Figure 9 shows a section of an example of a braided component 31 with a biaxial braid. Braiding yarns 12 are braided with an axial yarn 13 to form a braided component 31. The braiding angle α 91 is the angle between a direction of a braiding yarn and the axial yarn 13, which lies substantially along an axial direction of the braided component 31. For simplicity, only a single axial yarn is shown. The second type of axial yarn is arranged at a different location in the braided component. The braiding yarns can have a non-circular cross-section, also called lenticular. In this example, the braiding yarns have a substantially ellipsoidal cross-section with a length w y 93 a first axis and a length d y 94 a second axis.

[0110] The braided component 31 has a unit cell that is substantially similar to the neighboring unit cells, although not every unit cell needs to have an axial yarn. The diagonal lattice parameter L o 92 is the distance between diagonally separated crossing points.

[0111] It is known that the diameter of a braided hose depends on the diagonal lattice parameter L o 92 and the number of yarn carriers n, also called yarn bundles, in the following way: D=n2×L0π See for example Goff, JR (1976) “The geometry of tubular braided structures”, MSc Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology.

[0112] The diagonal lattice parameter L o 92 is a function of several parameters, comprising a length w y a first axis 93 and a length d ya second axis 94 of the braiding yarns, the braiding angle α 91, the thickness of the axial yarn, the braiding pattern and other parameters: L0=f(dy,wy,α,...)

[0113] This function is not analytically known because the compressibility of the yarn and the yarn-to-yarn friction represent different complicating factors.

[0114] From the present discussion it is clear that the diameter of the braided hose increases essentially linearly with the number n of yarn carriers.

[0115] Fig. Figure 10 shows the measured diameter D 102 of a braided hose made of PET textured multifilament yarns in a braided hose with biaxial braiding, which essentially corresponds to the one shown in Fig. 9. The braided sleeving was braided with n=144 yarn carriers using braiding yarns with a tex value of 66.8 tex. The sleeving had no incorporated axial yarns, but those skilled in the art will recognize that the process presented here is essentially similar for a braided sleeving with axial yarns. Using these settings, the sleeving was braided with four different braid angles α 91, and the diameter 102 of the braided sleeving was subsequently measured.

[0116] Measurements as in Fig. 10, allow the properties of the braided hose to be designed for a specific purpose.

[0117] The braiding angle after piling, α neu , can be estimated using the following equation: sin αneu=DDneusin α where D neuis the new diameter of the braided hose after lasting. Therefore, if the diameter of the hose after lasting is known based on the geometry of the last, a specific diameter D of the braided hose and braiding angle α 91 can be selected to produce a shoe upper with a specified braiding angle α neu to design.

[0118] Fig. Figure 11A schematically shows the nonlinear strain behavior of braided hoses with different braiding angles as described in Goff, JR (1976) “The geometry of tubular braided structures”, MSc Thesis, Georgia Institute of Technology.

[0119] Fig. Figure 11A shows the axial tension 111 for a braided hose with a local braid pattern that is essentially the same as in Fig. 9. The effect of the axial yarn has been omitted here for illustrative purposes. The stress-strain curve is shown for a first braided hose with a first braid angle 91a of 35 degrees and a second braided hose with a braid angle 91b of 45 degrees. At low values ​​of the axial strain 112, the corresponding stress 111 is approximately linear. At higher strain values, however, the corresponding stress increases much more rapidly. This occurs sooner for the lower braid angle 91a than for the higher braid angle 91b.

[0120] Fig. Figure 11B shows a similar scheme of axial stress 111 (in arbitrary units) as a function of axial strain (in arbitrary units), covering both positive (extension) and negative (compression) regions of axial stress 112.

[0121] Starting from zero strain, the stress increases approximately linearly with increasing strain within the linear regime 123, in which the braid itself can structurally expand. Essentially near the locking point 124, the stress increases much more rapidly with strain. This means that a much greater force (stress) is required to expand the hose than at lower strain values. In the strand strain regime 125, any expansion of the hose is primarily due to expansion of the strands themselves, since expansion of the braid structure is severely restricted.

[0122] Starting from zero strain and with decreasing strain, i.e., during compression of the hose in the axial direction, the stress decreases approximately linearly, i.e., it increases approximately linearly in magnitude within the linear regime 123. Essentially near the compression lock point 122 lies a point below which the stress decreases significantly more rapidly with decreasing strain in the buckling regime 121. In the buckling regime 121, the braided component 31 is compressed so severely that it buckles upon further compression of the hose, which leads to a sharp increase in the magnitude of the stress.

[0123] The axial yarn contributes an additional component to the stress-strain curve, the functional dependence of which essentially reflects the elasticity of the axial yarn.

[0124] The behavior shown in Figures 11A and 11B can be used to design a tube that provides sufficient flexibility in a specific range of strains, the linear regime 123, but also provides sufficient support for an athlete when the strain is outside this regime. Reference symbol: 11 Top 12 braiding yarn 13 axial yarn 14 Heel area 15 metatarsal area 16 toe area 31: braided component 35 first area 36 second area 37 cylindrical shape 45 first page 46 second page 55 braiding zone 56 bundles for axial yarn 57 braiding machine 58 braiding yarn bundles 59 strips 64 winding device 65 rings 80 oven 84 Laminating material 91 braiding angle 92 Diagonal lattice parameters 93 Length of the first yarn axis 94 Length of the second yarn axis 101 Orientation Guide 102 diameter of the braid 111 Axial tension 112 Axial strain 121 buckling regime 122 Compression locking point 123 linear regime 124 train blocking point 125 strand stretching regime

Claims

[1] A method of forming a braided component (31) for an article of clothing or footwear with a braiding machine (57), comprising: (a) braiding a plurality of braiding yarns (12) to form the braided component having a tubular structure; (b) introducing a plurality of axial threads (13) into the tubular structure during braiding, wherein at least two different types of axial threads are introduced into the braided component; and (c) wherein the braiding angle (91) is varied along an axial direction of the braided component (31). [2] Method according to the preceding claim, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) has a different composition than a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c). [3] A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) has a different Tex value than a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c). [4] Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) has a different elasticity and / or flexural rigidity than a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c). [5] A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the arrangement of the axial threads (13) varies around the circumference of the tubular structure of the braided component (31). [6] Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the braiding yarns and / or the axial yarns comprise at least one melt yarn (12b, 13c). [7] A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) is arranged in a first region of the braided component (31) but not in a second region, and wherein a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c) is arranged in the second region but not in the first region. [8] A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the braiding of the braided component (31) is carried out over a substantially cylindrical mold (37). [9] A method according to the preceding claim, wherein the substantially cylindrical shape (37) comprises a fusible component, and the method further comprises the step of melting the fusible component after braiding the braided component (31) over the fusible component (37) such that the braided component (31) and the fusible component (37) form an integral unit. [10] Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the braiding machine is a 3D braiding machine. [11] A method according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising the step of forming an upper (11) of the footwear comprising the braided component (31) made according to any one of the preceding claims. [12] Method according to claim 7 and 11, wherein the first region is located in a lower region of the upper part (11) and the second region is located in an instep region of the upper part (11). [13] Method according to claim 7 and 11, wherein the first region is located in a lateral and / or medial region of the upper part (11) and the second region is located in an instep region of the upper part (11). [14] Method according to claims 7 and 11, wherein the first region is located in a lateral region of the upper part (11) and the second region is located in a medial region of the upper part (11). [15] A method according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising the steps of placing the braided component (31a) on a last (59) and consolidating the lasted braided component (31b). [16] A method according to the preceding claim, wherein the step of consolidating comprises using a binder, a polymer coating and / or heating at least a portion of the braided component (31b). [17] A method according to any one of claims 15 or 16, wherein the step of consolidating comprises the use of a lamination technique. [18] A method according to the preceding claim, wherein the lamination technique comprises the use of polyurethane, TPU, polyamide, polyolefins or vinyl-based films. [19] A method according to any one of claims 17 or 18, wherein the lamination technique comprises vacuum forming. [20] Upper (11) for a footwear, comprising a braided component (31) produced by a method according to any one of the preceding claims. [21] A braided component for a garment or footwear having a tubular structure, wherein the braided component (31) has a plurality of incorporated axial yarns (13), wherein at least two different types of axial yarns are incorporated into the braided component, and wherein the braiding angle (91) varies along an axial direction of the braided component (31). [22] A braided component according to the preceding claim, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) has a different composition than a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c). [23] A braided component according to any one of claims 21 or 22, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) has a different Tex value than a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c). [24] A braided component according to any one of claims 21 to 23, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) has a different elasticity and / or flexural rigidity than a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c). [25] A braided component according to any one of claims 21 to 24, wherein the arrangement of the axial threads (13) varies around the circumference of the tubular structure of the braided component (31). [26] Braided component (31) according to one of claims 21 to 25, wherein the braiding yarns and / or the axial yarns comprise at least one melt yarn (12b, 13c). [27] A braided component (31) according to any one of claims 21 to 26, wherein a first type of axial yarn (13a) is arranged in a first region of the braided component but not in a second region, and wherein a second type of axial yarn (13b, 13c) is arranged in the second region but not in the first region. [28] Upper (11) for a footwear, comprising a braided component (31) according to any one of claims 21 to 27. [29] Upper part (11) according to claims 27 and 28, wherein the first region is arranged in a lower region of the upper part and the second region is arranged in an instep region of the upper part. [30] Upper part (11) according to claims 27 and 28, wherein the first region is arranged in a lateral and / or medial region of the upper part and the second region is arranged in an instep region of the upper part. [31] Upper part (11) according to claims 27 and 28, wherein the first region is located in a lateral region of the upper part and the second region is located in a medial region of the upper part. [32] Upper part (11) according to one of claims 28 to 31, wherein the braided component (31a) has been arranged and consolidated (31c) on a last (59). [33] The upper part (11) according to any one of claims 28 to 32, wherein the braided component (31c) has been consolidated using a binder, a polymer coating and / or heating at least a portion of the braided component. [34] The upper part (11) according to any one of claims 32 or 33, wherein the braided component (31c) has been consolidated by applying a lamination technique. [35] Top (11) according to the preceding claim, wherein the lamination technique comprises the use of polyurethane, TPU, polyamide, polyolefins or vinyl-based films. [36] Top (11) according to one of claims 34 or 35, wherein the lamination technique comprises vacuum forming. [37] A shoe comprising: a) an upper part (11) according to any one of claims 28-36; b) an outsole.

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