Hair conditioning formula with improved combability effect

Abstract

The invention relates to hair conditioning compositions with a combability-improving effect, containing cetyl palmitate in combination with a conditioning agent selected from cationized polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, and ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (salts) or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to hair conditioning compositions with a combability-improving effect, containing cetyl palmitate in combination with a conditioning agent selected from cationized polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, and ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (salts) or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid.

[0002] Keratinous fibers, especially hair, are an integral part of the human body and a key component of clothing and home textiles, playing a vital role in everyday life. Treatment with washing, cleaning, styling, and coloring products, as well as exposure to environmental factors such as ozone, salt and chlorinated water, IR, UV, and heat radiation (e.g., from hairdryer), leads to cumulative damage to the fibers over time, thus reducing their quality. For example, both shampooing and styling hair through coloring or perming are processes that affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Consequently, after such treatment, the hair's wet and dry combability, hold, volume, shine, and feel may be unsatisfactory.In the case of dyed hair, especially with frequent washing, the color may still not adhere to the hair satisfactorily, leading to a gradual fading of the color.

[0003] Not least due to the significant stress placed on hair, for example by coloring or perming, as well as by shampooing and environmental pollution, the importance of hair care products with a sufficiently strong and long-lasting effect is increasing. Such products influence the natural structure and properties of the hair. For example, after such treatments, the hair's wet and dry combability, its hold and volume can be improved, or the hair can be protected against split ends.

[0004] It has therefore long been common practice to subject the hair to a special after-treatment. This usually involves treating the hair with special active ingredients, such as quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, often in the form of a conditioner. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the manageability, hold, and volume of the hair and reduces split ends.

[0005] Hair conditioners contain conditioning agents and film formers that can cosmetically improve the hair's surface. For this purpose, high-molecular-weight polymers are used, for example, which adhere to the outermost layer of skin and hair, creating an externally noticeable improvement in the hair's feel. Such polymers are typically composed of petrochemically derived chain-forming monomers, such as acrylic acid, acrylamides, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylamides, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidones, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, and / or styrenes. For sustainability reasons, the invention preferably avoids the use of such polymers.

[0006] To prevent, reduce, and / or at least superficially eliminate hair damage, silicone oils were often added to hair conditioners in the past. This resulted in smoother hair and improved combability. For sustainability reasons, the invention preferably avoids the use of silicones. Furthermore, silicone-containing hair conditioners can often only be satisfactorily stabilized by adding other synthetic polymers.

[0007] For sustainability reasons, efforts are also being made to replace synthetic or chemically modified active ingredients and excipients in cosmetic products with natural and biodegradable active ingredients and excipients.

[0008] Patent application EP1174112A discloses hair treatment products which, in addition to an organic acid, contain as further mandatory components an organic solvent, a cationic surfactant, and a higher alcohol, and which serve to repair pores in hair. However, the effect of these hair treatment products on the immediate cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular its combability, was still in need of improvement.

[0009] The object of the invention was to provide hair conditioning compositions with sustainably sourced conditioning agents that improve the combability, in particular the dry combability, of the hair.

[0010] Surprisingly, it was found that a hair conditioning composition containing at least one conditioning agent selected from i) at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, and ii) Ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt.%, in combination with 0.1 to 3.0 wt% cetyl palmitate, wherein all quantities refer to the weight of the hair conditioning composition, the problem according to the invention is solved.

[0011] The invention relates to hair conditioning compositions for the care of hair, but can be applied to all keratinous fibers. According to the invention, keratinous fibers include not only hair, especially human hair, but also fur, wool, feathers, and silk.

[0012] According to the invention, hair conditioning compositions are to be understood in particular as hair conditioners, hair rinses, hair treatments, leave-on conditioners and hair care sprays.

[0013] Besides rinse-out hair conditioning products, there are also leave-in formulations that remain on the hair for at least several hours after application, particularly hair masks, leave-in treatments, hair serums, or leave-in conditioners. The terms "no rinsing" and "rinse-in" mean that the product either remains in the hair for a relatively short time, for example, less than a minute if needed, or for a few minutes or an hour until it is rinsed out—usually with water—or that the product stays in the hair until the next shampoo, which can take several days. Both have certain advantages.If the formula remains on the hair for a longer period of time, the full care potential of all ingredients can be utilized, whereas a formula that is rinsed out in a short time may also contain ingredients that have a good care effect, but whose longer-lasting presence in the hair would be unpleasant.

[0014] A first object of the present invention is therefore a hair conditioning composition comprising at least one conditioning agent selected from i) at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, and ii) Ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt.%, in combination with 0.1 to 3.0 wt% cetyl palmitate, where all quantities refer to the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0015] A second object of the present invention is a method for improving the combability of keratin fibers, in particular for improving the dry combability of keratin fibers, in which a conditioning agent selected from i) at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, and ii) Ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid, applied to the keratin fibers and optionally rinsed out of the keratin fibers after an exposure time of one second to four hours, wherein the at least one conditioning agent i) or ii) is preferably contained in a hair conditioning composition according to the invention or preferably according to the invention.

[0016] A third aspect of the present invention is the use of at least one conditioning agent selected from i) at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, and ii) Ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid, for improving the combability of keratin fibers, in particular for improving the dry combability of keratin fibers, wherein the at least one conditioning agent i) or ii) is preferably contained in a hair conditioning composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention.

[0017] The first subject matter of the invention, summarized above, will now be described in more detail.

[0018] The following statements regarding the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention and those preferred according to the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the aforementioned use according to the invention.

[0019] The following statements regarding the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention and those preferred according to the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the aforementioned method according to the invention.

[0020] Unless otherwise stated, all quantities given in % are wt.% and refer to the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0021] In a first embodiment of the first object of the present invention, the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as a conditioning agent at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0022] Surprisingly, it was found that the at least one compound selected from polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which are substituted with at least one cationic substituent, smooths the surface of damaged keratin fibers in a hair conditioning composition according to the invention, which is noticeable, among other things, by an objectively measured improvement in combability, in particular dry combability, as described in the experimental part of this application.

[0023] The plant genus Senna comprises a large portion of the species previously classified as Cassia (Senna). Senna tora was previously often referred to as Cassia tora. Senna obtusifolia was previously often referred to as Cassia obtusifolia. The plant genus Senna belongs to the subfamily Caesalpinioideae within the legume family (Fabaceae). Polygalactomannans are polysaccharides found in the endosperm of legume seeds. A polygalactomannan consists of a chain of 1->4-linked β-D-mannopyranosyl units with recurring 1->6-linked side chains of α-D-galactosyl groups branching off from carbon atom number 6 of a mannopyranose residue. The galactomannan polymers of the different Leguminosae species differ in the frequency of occurrence of the galactosyl side chains branching off from the polymannopyranose backbone.The average ratio of D-mannosyl to D-galactosyl units in polygalactomannan is approximately 2:1 for guar gum, approximately 3:1 for tara gum, and approximately 4:1 for locust bean gum. Another important source of polygalactomannan is Senna tora (Cassia tora) and Senna obtusifolia (Cassia obtusifolia). The average ratio of D-mannosyl to D-galactosyl in senna polygalactomannan (Cassia polygalactomannan) is at least 5:1.

[0024] The cationization of the senna polygalactomannan used according to the invention is carried out by replacing some of the hydrogen groups of the hydroxy groups in the mannosyl and galactosyl residues with a group represented by the formula -AR 23 , where A represents a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R 23 for a group -N(R 24 )3 + X - states in which R 24independently of each other stands for substituted and unsubstituted C1 to C24 alkyl groups, substituted and unsubstituted benzyl groups and substituted and unsubstituted phenyl groups and X - for any suitable anion that balances the charge of the onium cation.

[0025] In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, A represents a substituted alkylene group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which is substituted with one or more substituents selected from C1-C3 alkyl, C1-C3 haloalkyl, hydroxyl, and halogen. In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, A represents a substituted alkylene group with 2 to 3 carbon atoms, which is substituted with one or more substituents selected from C1-C3 alkyl, in particular methyl, and hydroxyl. In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, A represents a substituted propylene group, which is substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups are particularly preferred according to the invention. Preferred anionic counterions X -are selected from the halide ions, in particular from chloride ions. Furthermore, according to the invention, senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups and having chloride as counterions are particularly preferred.

[0026] The synthesis of such exceptionally preferred cationized senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) according to the invention is disclosed in WO 2010033302 A1, in particular in Examples 1 and 3.

[0027] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the cationized senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) has a cationic charge density in the range of 1.4 - 3.5 meq / g, preferably 1.5 - 3.2, particularly preferably 1.6 - 3.0 meq / g.

[0028] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the cationized senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) has a molecular weight in the range of 200000 - 3000000, preferably 300000 - 2000000, particularly preferably 400000 - 1000000 Daltons. In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups is cationized with chloride as a counterion, has a cationic charge density in the range of 1.4 - 3.5 meq / g, preferably 1.5 - 3.2, particularly preferably 1.6 - 3.0 meq / g and a molecular weight in the range of 200000 - 3000000, preferably 300000 - 2000000, particularly preferably 400000 - 1000000 Daltons.In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, at least one senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups, having a cationic charge density in the range of 1.4 - 3.5 meq / g, preferably 1.5 - 3.2, particularly preferably 1.6 - 3.0 meq / g and a molecular weight in the range of 200000 - 3000000, preferably 300000 - 2000000, particularly preferably 400000 - 1000000 Daltons, is included in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0029] In a second embodiment of the first subject matter of the present invention, the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid as the conditioning agent in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition according to the invention. Further hair conditioning compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is selected from the sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts, as well as from mixtures of these salts.Particularly preferred hair conditioning compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the conditioning active ingredient is selected from the monosodium salt, the disodium salt, the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid as well as from mixtures thereof, wherein the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid are preferred and the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is particularly preferred.

[0030] Further hair conditioning compositions particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one component a)ii), which is selected from ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or an alkali metal or ammonium salt of this acid, is contained in a total amount of 0.02 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.03 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition according to the invention.

[0031] Further hair conditioning compositions that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one component a)ii), which is selected from the sodium salts of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid, is contained in a total amount of 0.02 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.03 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0032] Further hair conditioning compositions particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that component a) ii) contains the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid in an amount of 0.02 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.03 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0033] Further hair conditioning compositions that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that cetyl palmitate is contained in an amount of 0.2 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.4 to 0.7 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II): wherein - R1 a C 11 - C 25 - alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each represents a methyl group.

[0035] Preferably, the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II) is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.8 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0036] It was surprisingly found that the at least one compound selected from amidoalkylamines according to the preceding formula (II) in a hair conditioning composition according to the invention smooths the surface of damaged keratin fibers, which is noticeable, among other things, by an objectively measured improvement in combability, in particular dry combability, as described in the experimental part of this application. Amidoalkylamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids or C8-C24 fatty acid fractions with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines. Amidoalkylamines preferred according to the invention have the following formula (II): wherein - R 1 a C 11 - C 25 - alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, - the index n is the number 3 or 4, preferably 3, - the remains R 2 and R 3independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each represents a methyl group.

[0037] Particularly preferred residues R 1 are selected from n-undecyl, n-tridecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-nonadecyl and n-heneicosanyl, as well as from mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred amidoalkylamines of formula (II) are C 12 - C 22-Amido-n-propyldimethylamines. The amidoalkylamines according to formula (II) are so-called pseudoquats. All organic residues are directly bonded to the nitrogen atom. In the acidic pH range, these become cationized, i.e., the nitrogen atom is protonated, with the anionic counterions of the protonated amidoalkylamines being the acid anions contained in the respective composition. In the preferably acidic environment of the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention, these amidoalkylamines exist in a cationic form. Particularly preferred amidoalkylamines of the above formula (II) are selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0038] Palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, Lauramidopropyldimethylamine, Cocamidopropyldimethylamine, Ricinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, Oleamidopropyldimethylamine, Sunflowerseedamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof, particularly preferably selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine and brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and most preferably selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0039] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the hair conditioning composition contains 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.8 to 1.5 wt.% stearamidopropyldimethylamine, based on the weight of the composition.

[0040] Hair conditioning compositions preferred according to the invention typically have a pH value in the acidic to slightly alkaline range, which, on the one hand, smooths the outer cuticle layer of the keratin fibers and, on the other hand, also supports the improvement of the internal fiber structure of the keratin fibers and the repair of structural damage to the fibers. Hair conditioning compositions according to the invention therefore particularly preferably have a pH value in the range of 3.0 to 7.8, more preferably 3.5 to 6.5, more preferably 4.0 to 6.0, further more preferably 4.5 to 5.5, and most preferably 4.9 to 5.2, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0041] As a further optional ingredient, the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 - 8 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1 - 4 wt.%, further extraordinarily preferably 1.1 - 3 wt.%, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group, quaternary imidazolines, esterquats with at least one C8-C24 acyl group, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0042] The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" refer to surface-active substances that form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or can aggregate in bulk phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. Basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants, consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group; amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge; cationic surfactants, which have a hydrophobic residue and a positively charged hydrophilic group; and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but exhibit strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.

[0043] In principle, all cationic surfactants suitable for use on the human body according to the preceding definition are suitable as cationic surfactants in hair conditioning compositions according to the invention, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group, quaternary imidazolines, esterquats with at least one C8-C24 acyl group, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. These are characterized by at least one water-soluble cationic group, such as a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-soluble, cationizable group, such as an amine group, and furthermore by at least one lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or also by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazolylalkyl group.

[0044] Preferred hair conditioning compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium compounds (alkylquats) with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group, quaternary imidazolines, esterquats with at least one C8-C24 acyl group, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

[0045] Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group are the halides, especially chlorides, and the alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates, of C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium, and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium. The alkyl chains of the surfactants mentioned above have 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Exceptionally preferred cationic surfactants of this type are selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, and lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, as well as mixtures thereof, with cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride being particularly preferred.

[0046] Particularly preferred quaternary imidazoline compounds are selected from those having the following formula (III): wherein - R 1 and R 2 independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl group, particularly preferably a saturated or unsaturated C15-C17 alkyl group, - X - is a physiologically compatible anion.

[0047] A particularly preferred compound of this class according to the invention is Quaternium-87 (CAS number 92201-88-2), which is available, for example, from Evonik as Varisoft W 575 PG. Quaternary imidazolines or imidazolium compounds that are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, and Quaternium-91. A compound preferred according to the invention is Quaternium-87.

[0048] Esterquats are cationic surfactants that contain at least one ester group, at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element, and at least one C8-C24 alkyl group or one C8-C24 acyl group. The esterquat can have the following formula: where - R 19 and R 20 independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, - R 21 , R 22 independently of each other a C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a C 10 -C 22 -alkyl group, represent and - X - is a physiologically compatible anion.

[0049] Preferred esterquats are quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, and Armocare®. N,N-Bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyldimonium methosulfate, and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of such esterquats, particularly distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate. Another preferred esterquat is behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride.

[0050] In accordance with the present invention, hair conditioning compositions are preferred that are free of peroxide compounds other than atmospheric oxygen. Peroxide compounds commonly used as oxidizing agents in hair cosmetics include hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perbromates, percarbonates, perborates, and percarbamides. The oxygen contained in ambient air does not constitute an oxidizing agent in the context of the invention.

[0051] Further hair conditioning compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ionic surfactant. These are particularly mild and thus support the conditioning effect of the invention. Non-ionic surfactants preferably contain as a hydrophilic group a polyol group, one or more polyalkylene glycol ether groups, in particular one or more polyethylene glycol ether groups, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Preferred non-ionic surfactants are, for example... - Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - End-group sealed addition products of 2 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, with a methyl or C2-C6 alkyl group, - C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid mono- and diesters of adsorption products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to glycerol, - Deposition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide on castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, - alkoxylated, especially ethoxylated, triglycerides, - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (XIV) R 1 CO-(OCH2CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (XIV), in the R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen or methyl, R 3for linear or branched alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w stands for numbers from 1 to 20, - Amine oxides, - Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, - Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as the polysorbates, - Sugar fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sugar fatty acid esters, - Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, - Sugar surfactants of the type of alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides according to formula (XV), R 4 O-[G] p (XV) in the R 4G represents an alkyl or alkenyl group with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar group with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p represents numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are therefore alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (XV) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. While p in a single molecule must always be an integer and can primarily take the values ​​p = 1 to 6, the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity, which usually represents a fractional number.Preferably, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used. From an application engineering perspective, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with a degree of oligomerization less than 1.7, and particularly between 1.2 and 1.4, are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl group R. 4 It can be derived from primary alcohols with 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, and undecyl alcohol, as well as their technical mixtures, such as those obtained, for example, during the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C8-C are preferred. 10 (DP = 1 to 3), which are used as foreshots in the distillative separation of technical C8-C 18-Coconut fatty alcohol is produced and contains less than 6% C by weight. 12 -may be contaminated with alcohol and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical grade C 9 / 11 -Oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl group R 15 It can also be derived from primary alcohols with 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated carbon are preferred. 12 / 14 -Coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3. - Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a non-ionic surfactant of formula (VII), in the R 5CO for an aliphatic acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6[Z] represents hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and [Z] represents a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl group with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances that can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine, or an alkanolamine, followed by acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester, or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, as represented by formula (VIII): Preferably, glucamides of formula (VIII) are used as the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides, in which R 8stands for hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO represents the acyl group of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, or erucic acid, or their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of formula (VIII), which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

[0052] Preferred nonionic surfactants have proven to be alkylene oxide addition products to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These compounds are characterized by the following parameters: The alkyl group R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear groups and 2-methyl-branched aliphatic groups are preferred. Examples of such alkyl groups are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl, and 1-stearyl. 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, and 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called “oxo alcohols” as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

[0053] Furthermore, sugar surfactants are particularly preferred as non-ionic surfactants. These sugar surfactants can preferably be contained in the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1–10 wt.%, preferably 0.2–5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5–2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0054] The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be a single, uniform substance. However, it is generally preferred to start with native plant or animal raw materials for the production of these substances, so that mixtures of substances with different alkyl chain lengths, depending on the respective raw material, are obtained. According to the invention, preferred hair conditioning compositions contain, based on their weight, at least one nonionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 6 wt.%, extremely preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, and further extremely preferably 1 to 3 wt.%.

[0055] If the washability is to be improved, at least one anionic, zwitterionic and / or ampholytic surfactant can be added in small amounts to the hair conditioning compositions preferred according to the invention.

[0056] In principle, all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants in hair conditioning compositions according to the invention. These are characterized by a water-soluble anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The molecule may also contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as mono-, di-, and trialanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), - Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula RO-(CH2-CH2O) x -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - Acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - Acyltaurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - Acylisethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, - linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - linear alpha olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - Alpha-sulfofatis methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO(CH2-CH2O) x -OSO3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, - Mixtures of surfactant hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, - sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkyl propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344, - Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of formula (II), R 1 (OCH2CH2) n -OP(O)(OX)(OR 2 ) (II), in the R 1 preferably for an aliphatic hydrocarbon residue with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen, a residue (CH2CH2O) n R 1 or X, n for numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6independently representing hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon residue, stands, - sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of formula (XII) R 7 CO(AlkO) n SO3M (XII) in the R 7 CO- stands for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl residue with 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH2CH2, CHCH3CH2 and / or CH2CHCH3, n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M for a cation, as described in DE19736906, - Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of formula (XIII) in R 8CO represents a linear or branched acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y, and z together represent 0 or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of suitable monoglyceride (ether) sulfates according to the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride, as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of formula (XIII) are used, in which R 8 CO stands for a linear acyl residue with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - Amide ether carboxylic acids, - Condensation products of C8 - C 30 - Fatty acids with amino acids, such as sodium cocoylglutamate, and / or with protein hydrolysates, which are also known as protein fatty acid condensates.

[0057] Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids, each with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 2 to 6 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, acylisethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, as well as acylated amino acids and protein fatty acid condensates, each with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, and mixtures of these anionic surfactants. According to the invention, preferred hair conditioning compositions contain at least one anionic surfactant, but in a small total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0058] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO in their molecule. (-) - or -SO3 (-)- group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0059] According to the invention, preferred hair conditioning compositions contain at least one zwitterionic surfactant, but in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0060] Ampholytic surfactants are understood to be surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8-C 24 - The alkyl or acyl group in the molecule contains at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and is capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C 12 - C 18- Acylsarcosine. According to the invention, preferred hair conditioning compositions contain at least one ampholytic surfactant, but in a total amount of 0.01 to 7 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0061] According to the invention, preferred hair conditioning compositions contain at least one surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 to 7 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.5 to 6 wt.%, further extraordinarily preferably 2 to 5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition. Fatty alcohols

[0062] Further hair conditioning compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol with 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount of 0.2 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 7 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition. These linear saturated 1-alkanols are also referred to as fatty alcohols.

[0063] Preferably, the at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol with 12 to 30 carbon atoms is selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, as well as from mixtures of these 1-alkanols, particularly preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures. Preferred hair conditioning compositions according to the invention contain, based on their weight, at least one linear saturated 1-alkanol with 12 to 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.2 to 10 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.5 to 7 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a total amount of 1.5 to 6.5 wt.%, wherein at least one 1-alkanol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol mixtures is included. Oils

[0064] Natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies, which constitute care ingredients according to the invention, are in particular: - Vegetable oils. Examples of preferred vegetable oils include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil. Other triglyceride oils are also suitable, e.g., the liquid components of beef tallow (animal-based) as well as synthetic triglyceride oils, especially C8-C10 triglycerides. - liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons as well as di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 and 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexane (Cetiol) ® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.

[0065] Other cosmetic oils that are preferred according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils, which include, for example, dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, and decamethyltetrasiloxane. Volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof, such as those contained, for example, in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344, and 345 from Dow Corning, are preferred. Also suitable are volatile linear silicone oils, in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) as well as any two- and three-component mixtures of L2, L3 and / or L4, preferably such mixtures as are found, for example, in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt) and Dow Corning ®200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included. Preferred non-volatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available, for example, under the name Dow Corning. ® 190, Dow Corning ® 200 Fluid with kinematic viscosities (25°C) in the range of 5 - 100 cSt, preferably 5 - 50 cSt or also 5 - 10 cSt, and dimethylpolysiloxane with a kinematic viscosity (25°C) of about 350 cSt.

[0066] According to the invention, it may be extremely preferred to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.

[0067] Preferred hair conditioning compositions according to the invention contain, based on their weight, at least one oil in a total amount of 0.01 to 98 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 50 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 10 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 1 to 3 wt.%, based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition. Water content

[0068] Suitable cosmetic carriers for the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention include, for example, water or a mixture of water and alcohols. The alcoholic component can be, for example, lower alkanols as well as polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerin. Ethanol, n-propanol, and isopropanol are preferred lower alcohols. Water and alcohol(s) can be present in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 99:1. Water or aqueous-alcoholic mixtures containing up to 50% by weight, preferably up to 25% by weight, and particularly up to 15% by weight of alcohols (based on the weight of the alcohol / water mixture) can be preferred cosmetic carriers.

[0069] Further hair conditioning compositions preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, 40 to 95 wt.% water, particularly preferably 50 to 90 wt.%, further preferably 60 to 87 wt.%, further preferably 70 to 85 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 75 to 84 wt.% water.

[0070] Further hair conditioning compositions preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, 0.01 to 40 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 30 wt.%, and particularly 0.1 to 25 wt.% of at least one alcohol. Suitable alcohols are, for example, ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, or mixtures of these alcohols. Water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred. Ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures of these alcohols are especially preferred.

[0071] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair conditioning composition according to the invention contains at least one direct dye. It serves as a toning conditioner and / or for refreshing a previous oxidative or direct coloring.

[0072] Direct dyes are dyes that adhere directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.

[0073] Direct-drawing dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic, and nonionic direct-drawing dyes.

[0074] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known as Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and Tetrabromophenol Blue, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0075] Preferred cationic direct-drawing dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, as well as aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferred nonionic direct dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Urei-doethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetra-hydroquinoxaline, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and their salts, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-Chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol and their mixtures.

[0077] Furthermore, naturally occurring dyes can also be used as direct dyes, such as those contained in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, catechu and alkanna root.

[0078] Preferably, the hair conditioning composition according to the invention contains at least one direct dye in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, in particular 0.5 to 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition.

[0079] In addition to the active ingredients described above, the hair conditioning compositions according to the invention may further contain one or more active ingredients from one or more of the following groups: - Dyes, including both dyes for coloring compositions and dyes for coloring hair, including oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, natural dyes and mixtures thereof, as well as, where applicable, oxidizing and alkalizing agents, - UV filter substances, - Perfumes, - natural thickeners that are not cationized, such as cellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, starch, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan, polygalactomannan, pectin, agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan gum, gelatin, alginic acids and their salts, - Anti-dandruff agents, such as piroctone olamines, zinc pyrithione, climbazole, propanediol caprylate, - Pearlescent and / or opacifying agents, - Keratin-reducing agents such as mercaptans, thioglycolate salts, possibly in combination with ammonia or amines, - Ceramides, - Propellant, - Preservatives.

[0080] The following examples are intended to describe the invention in concrete terms, without limiting it to this.

[0081] The following hair conditioning compositions were produced (oil-in-water emulsions, all amounts in wt% active substance): Table 1: Hair conditioning compositions according to the invention (E-1, E-2 and V: rinse-off conditioner; amounts in wt.%) E-1 E-2 V Cetyl palmitate 0,70 0,70 0,70 Cetearyl Alcohol 5,70 5,70 5,70 Isopropyl myristate 2,00 2,00 2,00 Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate 1,00 1,00 1,00 Behentrimonium chloride 0,60 0,60 0,60 Cetrimonium chloride 0,40 0,40 0,40 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 1,00 1,00 1,00 Lactic acid 0,50 0,50 0,50 Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride* 0,50 - - Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid trisodium salt - 0,03 - Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0,10 0,10 0,10 Trimagnesium dicitrate 0,10 0,10 0,10 Sodium benzoate 0,60 0,60 0,60 Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer 0,05 0,05 0,05 Trideceth-5 0,03 0,03 0,03 Sodium hydroxide 0,05 0,05 0,05 Perfume 0,25 0,25 0,25 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Change in dry combability compared to untreated strands (rel. CFR) 79% 78% 72% * available from Lubrizol

[0082] Conditioners E-1 and E-24 are hair conditioning compositions according to the invention. V-1 is a comparative example. Examination of dry combability 1. Preparation of the test strands

[0083] All test strands (European hair, 2 ± 0.3 grams per strand, length: 21 cm; were first chemically bleached and, after washing out the bleaching agent, cleaned with a shampoo and dried for 24 hours under defined conditions (22 ± 1 °C, 50 ± 5 % relative humidity).

[0084] Dry combability was determined; the values ​​were used as the control value F0 (see formula below).

[0085] The test strands were then treated with an oxidative dye (float ratio 4 grams of dye per gram of hair), which, after a processing time of 30 minutes at 38 °C, was rinsed out of the hair strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes. The strands were then dried again for 24 hours under defined conditions (22 ± 1 °C, 50 ± 5% relative humidity). 2. Treatment of the test strands with the hair conditioning compositions to be tested.

[0086] The hair conditioning compositions to be tested were each applied in a defined quantity (0.25 g of the product per 1 g of hair) to flattened strands of hair (5 strands per product) and left on the hair strands for a processing time of 2 minutes. The products were then rinsed out of the hair strands for 1 minute with 37°C warm water (hardness 10-12° dH) and dried for 24 hours under defined conditions (see above).

[0087] Dry combability was determined using a ZWICK Z 1.0 / TN1SSO tensile testing machine. Each strand was measured five times immediately after treatment (measurement F1). The relative change in dry combability (rel. CFR) was calculated from the values ​​F0 and F1 using the formula [formula missing in original text]. rel. CFR[%]=(F0−F1) / F0⋅100 QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

[0000] This list of documents cited by the applicant was automatically generated and is included solely for the reader's convenience. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA accepts no liability for any errors or omissions. Cited patent literature

[0000] EP 1174112A

[0008] WO 2010033302 A1

[0026] DE-OS 19738866

[0051] DE-A-37 25 030

[0056] DE-A-37 23 354

[0056] DE-A-39 26 344

[0056] DE 19736906

[0056]

Claims

Hair conditioning composition containing in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one conditioning active ingredient selected from i) at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, and ii) ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt.%, furthermore b) 0.1 - 3.0 wt.% cetyl palmitate, where all quantities refer to the weight of the hair conditioning composition. Hair conditioning composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is selected from the sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts as well as mixtures of these salts, preferably selected from the monosodium salt, the disodium salt, the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid as well as from mixtures thereof, wherein the trisodium salt and the tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid are particularly preferred and the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid is extraordinarily preferred. Hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that component a) ii) contains the trisodium salt of ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid in an amount of 0.02 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably 0.03 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition. Hair conditioning composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, is selected from Senna polygalactomannans (Cassia polygalactomannans) which are cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups and have chloride as counterions. Hair conditioning composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, has a cationic charge density in the range of 1.4 - 3.5 meq / g, preferably 1.5 - 3.2, particularly preferably 1.6 - 3.0 meq / g. Hair conditioning composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition. Hair conditioning composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further contains at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II): where - R 1 a C 11 - C 25 - alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each represents a methyl group. Hair conditioning composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II) is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, sunflower seed amidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, particularly preferably selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, and brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. Hair conditioning composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II) is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, most preferably 0.8 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition. Hair conditioning composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by a pH value in the range of 3.0 to 7.8, preferably 3.5 to 6.5, particularly preferably 4.0 to 6.0, further particularly preferably 4.5 to 5.5, extraordinarily preferably 4.9 to 5.2, each measured at 20°C. Hair conditioning composition according to one of claims 1-10, characterized in that it further contains at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 to 8 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1 to 4 wt.%, further extraordinarily preferably 1.1 to 3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the hair conditioning composition, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group, quaternary imidazolines, esterquats with at least one C8-C24 acyl group, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Hair conditioning composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the at least one quaternary ammonium compound with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dilauryldimethylammonium chloride and lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and mixtures thereof, wherein cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride are particularly preferred. Hair conditioning composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the at least one esterquat is selected from N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyldimonium methosulfate, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Use of at least one conditioning agent, selected from i) at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, and ii) ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid, for improving the combability of keratin fibers, in particular for improving the dry combability of keratin fibers, wherein the at least one conditioning agent i) or ii) is preferably contained in a hair conditioning composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13. Method for improving the combability of keratin fibers, in particular for improving the dry combability of keratin fibers, in which a conditioning agent selected from i) at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, and ii) ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid or at least one alkali metal salt or ammonium salt of this acid, is applied to the keratin fibers and optionally rinsed out of the keratin fibers after an exposure time of one second to four hours, wherein the at least one conditioning agent i) or ii) is preferably contained in a hair conditioning composition according to one of claims 1 to 13.