Body care compositions for sensitive skin and application methods
A retinoid-free personal care composition using niacinamide, Edelweiß extract, rice trub concentrate, panthenol, and soy glycopeptides addresses the irritation issue of retinoids in sensitive skin, effectively reducing skin aging signs by enhancing collagen production and reducing inflammation.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE112023001807
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-03-31
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-23
AI Technical Summary
Existing anti-aging products for sensitive skin often contain retinoids that can irritate sensitive skin, exacerbating its condition while attempting to improve collagen synthesis and reduce wrinkles.
A personal care composition comprising niacinamide, Edelweiß extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice trub concentrate (Oryza Sativa), panthenol, and glycopeptides from soy, without retinoids, to improve collagen production, reduce inflammation, and enhance skin barrier function.
The composition effectively reduces signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles, by improving collagen production, regulating cell metabolism, and reducing inflammation and oxidative stress in sensitive skin, while being gentle and non-irritating.
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Abstract
Description
AREA OF PUBLICATION REFERENCE
[0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 63 / 325,960, which was filed on March 31, 2022, and is incorporated by reference in its entirety.
[0002] This publication relates generally to the field of skin care. This includes body care compositions that protect sensitive skin from environmental influences (e.g., pollution), restore a healthy balance (e.g., skin pH, skin hydration, etc.), and mitigate the signs of skin aging. This publication also provides methods for treating sensitive skin in a test subject using the body care compositions described herein. BACKGROUND
[0003] The skin is the first barrier against environmental influences such as artificial blue light, particulate matter, and ultraviolet (UV) light. Over time, these environmental challenges damage the skin and accelerate skin aging.
[0004] Sensitive skin is described as having an altered response to environmental factors, leading to unpleasant sensations such as tingling, heat, burning, itching, tightness, and redness, affecting all parts of the body, particularly the face. Sensitive skin exhibits inflammation, specifically an altered skin barrier, a thickened epidermis with hyperplasia, disordered collagen, and a reduced vascular network, making it more susceptible to damage both on the surface and in the deeper layers. It also displays neurosensitivity, resulting in faster aging of sensitive skin compared to normal skin.
[0005] Anti-aging lotions typically contain retinoids, which stimulate collagen I synthesis and reduce wrinkles to maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin. However, retinoids can also irritate sensitive skin and make it even more sensitive.
[0006] There is an unmet need for formulations that slow down or reduce the signs of skin aging in sensitive skin. SUMMARY
[0007] In one aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the publication refers to a body care composition which, based on the weight of the total composition, comprises the following: (a) 0.1% to 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% to 10% Edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), (c) 0.001% to 10% rice trub concentrate (Oryza sativa), (d) 0.1% to 10% panthenol, and (e) 0.001% to 5% glycopeptides from soy.
[0008] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% to 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), 0.001% to 2% rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), 0.1% to 3% panthenol and 0.002% to 4% glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0009] In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0010] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0011] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0012] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0013] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0014] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a cream, lotion, gel, mask, serum, or spray.
[0015] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for treating sensitive skin in a test subject, wherein the method comprises administering a body care composition to the subject comprising: niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), panthenol and soy-derived glycopeptides.
[0016] In some embodiments, the sensitive skin exhibits at least one unpleasant sensation prior to treatment, wherein the at least one unpleasant sensation is selected from the group consisting of tingling, heat, burning, itching, tightness and redness.
[0017] In some embodiments, the application of the body care composition leads to a reduction in wrinkles or a delay in their onset. In some embodiments, the administration of the body care composition reduces the signs of skin aging by at least 3%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 99% or more compared to the administration of the same composition without niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), panthenol, and soy-derived glycopeptides.
[0018] In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0019] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: (a) 0.1% to 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% to 10% Edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), (c) 0.001% to 10% rice trub concentrate (Oryza sativa), (d) 0.1% to 10% panthenol, and (e) 0.001% to 5% glycopeptides from soy.
[0020] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% to 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), 0.001% to 2% rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), 0.1% to 3% panthenol and 0.002% to 4% glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0021] In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0022] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0023] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0024] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0025] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0026] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a cream, lotion, gel, mask, serum, or spray.
[0027] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a body care composition which, based on the weight of the total composition, comprises the following: (a) 0.1% to 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% to 10% Edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), (c) 0.001% to 10% rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), and (d) 0.1% to 10% panthenol.
[0028] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises: (e) 0.001% to 5% glycopeptides from soya.
[0029] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% to 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), 0.001% to 2% rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), 0.1% to 3% panthenol, and 0.002% to 4% soy-derived glycopeptides. In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0030] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0031] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0032] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0033] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0034] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a cream, lotion, gel, mask, serum, or spray.
[0035] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for reducing wrinkle formation in a test subject with sensitive skin, wherein the method comprises administering a body care composition to the subject comprising: niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), panthenol and soy-derived glycopeptides.
[0036] In some embodiments, the method further includes exposing the skin of the test subject to contamination after treatment with the compositions published herein.
[0037] In some embodiments, the test subject's skin was exposed to contamination.
[0038] In some embodiments, the pollution is air pollution. In some embodiments, the air pollution has an Air Quality Index (AQI) of over 100, 150, 200, 250, or 300. In some embodiments, the pollution is water pollution.
[0039] In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0040] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: (a) 0.1% to 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% to 10% Edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), (c) 0.001% to 10% rice trub concentrate (Oryza sativa), (d) 0.1% to 10% panthenol, and (e) 0.001% to 5% glycopeptides from soy.
[0041] In some embodiments, the application of the body care composition leads to a reduction in wrinkles or a delay in their onset. In some embodiments, the administration of the body care composition reduces the signs of skin aging by at least 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 99% or more compared to the administration of the same composition without niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice husk concentrate (Oryza sativa), panthenol, and soy-derived glycopeptides.
[0042] In some embodiments, the test subject is a human being. In some embodiments, the test subject was exposed to environmental pollution. In some embodiments, the test subject was exposed to air pollution. In some embodiments, the test subject was exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 100. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 150. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 200. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 250. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 300.
[0043] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% to 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), 0.001% to 2% rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), 0.1% to 3% panthenol and 0.002% to 4% glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0044] In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0045] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0046] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0047] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0048] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0049] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a cream, lotion, gel, mask, serum, or spray.
[0050] In some embodiments, the body care composition is administered topically. In some embodiments, the body care composition is administered every hour, every 2 hours, every 3 hours, every 6 hours, every 12 hours, or every day, every other day, or every three days. In some embodiments, the body care composition is administered for at least 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 days before a reduction in the signs of skin aging in sensitive skin (reduction of wrinkles, e.g., in the area of crow's feet) or a reduction in at least one unpleasant sensation in sensitive skin (e.g., tingling, heat, burning, itching, tightness, and redness) is observed.
[0051] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for reducing pollution-induced NADPH oxidase in mitochondria by applying a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa) and panthenol to human skin.
[0052] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0053] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0054] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0055] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0056] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for reducing pollution-induced mitochondrial fragmentation by applying a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa) and panthenol to human skin.
[0057] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0058] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0059] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0060] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0061] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0062] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0063] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0064] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for reducing the pollution-induced production of MAMs in the mitochondria by applying a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa) and panthenol to human skin.
[0065] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0066] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0067] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0068] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0069] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for alleviating depolarization of the mitochondrial membrane caused by environmental pollution by applying a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa) and panthenol to human skin.
[0070] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0071] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0072] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0073] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0074] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for inducing procollagen and elastin protein expression in the skin by topical application to the skin of a composition comprising niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice bush concentrate (Oryza sativa) and panthenol, wherein the body care composition does not contain retinol.
[0075] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0076] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0077] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0078] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0079] In another aspect, which can be combined with any other aspect or embodiment, the present publication relates to a method for reducing IL-8 and PGE-2 expression in the skin by topical application to the skin of a composition comprising niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice bush concentrate (Oryza sativa) and panthenol, wherein the body care composition does not contain retinol.
[0080] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a light filter, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH equalizer and a surfactant.
[0081] In some embodiments, the humectant comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol or any combination thereof.
[0082] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises, based on the weight of the total composition: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract.
[0083] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Fig. Figure 1 shows the results of a skin sensitivity questionnaire completed by test subjects using an embodiment of a composition according to the publication. Fig.Figure 2 shows the results of a TEWL / hydration test on test subjects who used one embodiment of a body care composition as described in the publication. Fig. Figure 3 shows the results of the clinical evaluation of skin treated with an embodiment of a composition according to the publication. Fig. Figure 4 shows the results of a skin sensitivity questionnaire completed by test subjects exposed to an embodiment of a composition according to the publication. Fig. Figure 5 shows the results of a TEWL / hydration test on test subjects using another embodiment of a composition as described in the publication. Fig.Figure 6 shows the effect of a body care composition (referred to as TREAT) on NADPH oxidase activity. NE-NTC: unexposed, untreated cells; DPI: diphenyleniodonium, standard NADPH oxidase inhibitor; PE-NTC: soil-exposed and untreated cells; PE + IC94214 0.005%: soil-exposed and treated cells. ***: p<0.001; ##: p<0.01; #: p<0.05. Bars represent one standard deviation. Fig.Figure 7 shows the mitochondrial membrane potential of primary human fibroblasts derived from a mature donor in unexposed and untreated cells (NE-NTC) and in cells exposed to standardized urban pollutants (PE-NTC), with and without treatment with the (personal care composition). CCCP treatment and pollutant exposure were compared to NE-NTC. Pollutant-exposed cells treated with the personal care composition were compared to PE-NTC. ***: p<0.001; **: p<0.01; *: p<0.05; #: p<0.05. Fig. Figure 8A shows the parameters measured in mitochondrial fusion and cleavage tests. Fig.Figure 8B shows the results of the mitochondrial fusion experiments. The contamination led to a decrease in long mitochondria and mitochondrial fusion / hyperfusion. Treatment with the instant body care products (referred to as PE-TREAT) restored mitochondrial fusion. Fig. Figure 8C shows the results of the mitochondrial cleavage experiments. Environmental pollution led to an increase in mitochondrial cleavage / hyperfission. Treatment with the instant body care products (referred to as PE-TREAT) restored mitochondrial cleavage. Fig. Figure 9 shows the results of the mitochondrial network analysis. Normal cells had healthy, branched mitochondrial networks (left field). Pollution led to the breakdown and dissolution of these networks (middle field). Treatment with the body care composition restored the healthy mitochondrial network structure (right field). Fig. Figure 10 shows the quantification of ER-mitochondrial interactions at MAMs in unexposed and untreated cells (NE-NTC) and in cells exposed to standardized urban pollutants (PE-NTC), with and without treatment with a body care composition (PE-TREAT). Fig. Figure 11 shows the number of viable cells per field under different experimental conditions. The error bars represent the standard error of the mean. Fig.Figure 12 shows the effect of niacinamide (high and low concentrations) and a body care composition (shown as Composition B, diluted to contain a niacinamide concentration equivalent to the "low" niacinamide concentration) on NADPH oxidase activity. NE-NTC: unexposed, untreated cells; PE-NTC: soil-exposed and untreated cells; PE + IC94214 0.005%: soil-exposed and treated cells. *: p<0.05; #: p<0.05; ###: p<0.0001. Bars represent one standard deviation. Fig.Figure 13 shows the quantification of ER-mitochondrial interactions at MAMs in unexposed and untreated cells (NE-NTC) and in cells exposed to standardized urban pollutants (PE-NTC), with and without treatment with niacinamide (“low” concentration) and a personal care composition according to the present publication (composition B, diluted to contain a niacinamide concentration equivalent to the “low” niacinamide concentration). ***: p<0.0001; ##: p<0.01. Bars represent one standard deviation. DETAILED DESCRIPTION Definitions
[0084] All percentages and ratios used herein refer to the weight of the total composition unless otherwise stated. All measurements are performed under ambient conditions, where "ambient conditions" means conditions at approximately 25 °C, at approximately one atmosphere's pressure, and at approximately 50% relative humidity unless otherwise stated. All numerical ranges also include narrower ranges; defined upper and lower range limits may be combined to create further, undefined ranges.
[0085] The compositions described in this publication may include, consist substantially of, or be composed of the components described herein. As used herein, “consist substantially of” means that the composition or component may contain additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not substantially alter the basic and novel properties of the claimed compositions or processes.
[0086] As used here, the term refers approximately to ±10% of a given value.
[0087] The term “apply” or “application”, as used in relation to a composition, means to apply or distribute the compositions of this publication onto keratin-containing tissue such as the epidermis.
[0088] The term “derivatives” includes esters, ethers, amides, hydroxyl and / or salt structure analogues of a compound of interest.
[0089] The term “dermatologically compatible” means that the described compositions or components are suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue without excessive toxicity, intolerance, instability, allergic reaction and the like.
[0090] The term "keratin tissue" refers to keratin-containing layers that serve as the outermost protective layer of mammals (e.g., humans, dogs, cats, etc.) and include, among other things, skin, lips, hair, toenails, fingernails, cuticles, hooves, etc.
[0091] In this document, the term "pH adjuster" refers to any compound (e.g., an acid or a base) useful for adjusting the pH of a composition to a specific value (e.g., 7, 8, 9, etc.) or a specific range (e.g., pH = about 5 to about 7, about 7 to about 9, etc.). In some embodiments, the pH adjuster is added to the composition in an amount effective in adjusting the pH of the composition to about 7 or more, for example, about 7 or about 8, but not more than about 8.5.
[0092] In some embodiments, the pH adjuster is added to the composition in an amount effective to adjust the pH of the composition to about 7 or less, for example to about 7, to about 6, to about 5, or to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH adjuster is added to the composition in an amount effective to adjust the pH of the composition to about 5 to about 7.
[0093] Examples of pH-balancing agents include, but are not limited to: ammonium aluminum sulfate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate dibasic, ammonium citrate monobasic, ammonium hydroxide, ammonium phosphate dibasic, ammonium phosphate monobasic, calcium acetate, calcium pyrophosphate, calcium carbonate, calcium chloride, calcium citrate, calcium fumarate, calcium gluconate, calcium hydroxide, calcium lactate, calcium oxide, calcium phosphate (dibasic), calcium phosphate (monobasic), calcium phosphate (tribasic), calcium sulfate, cream of tartar, glucono-delta-lactone, magnesium carbonate, magnesium citrate, magnesium fumarate, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium oxide, magnesium phosphate, magnesium sulfate, manganese sulfate, potassium tartrate, potassium aluminum sulfate, potassium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium chloride, potassium citrate, potassium fumarate, potassium hydroxide, potassium lactate, potassium phosphate (dibasic), potassium phosphate (tribasic), potassium sulfate, potassium tartrate potassium tripolyphosphate, sodium acetate, sodium pyrophosphate,Sodium tartrate, sodium aluminum phosphate, sodium aluminum sulfate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bisulfate, sodium carbonate, sodium citrate, sodium fumarate, sodium gluconate, sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium hydroxide, sodium lactate, sodium phosphate (dibasic), sodium phosphate (monobasic), sodium phosphate (tribasic), sodium potassium hexametaphosphate, sodium potassium tartrate, sodium potassium tripolyphosphate, sodium pyrophosphate (tetrabasic), and sodium tripolyphosphate.
[0094] In this document, the term "pollution" refers to a polluted environment, which includes pollutants such as metals (e.g., lead), harmful chemicals (e.g., polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), nitro-PAHs, polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), chlorinated pesticides, ozone, sulfur dioxide, carbon monoxide, nitrogen dioxide, etc.), dust, and fine particulate matter with a micrometer diameter (e.g., particulate matter with a size of approximately 10 micrometers ("PM10") or particulate matter with a size of approximately 2.5 micrometers ("PM2.5")). In some versions, the term "pollution" includes polluted air ("air pollution") or water ("water pollution").
[0095] In some embodiments, air pollution is measured using the Air Quality Index (AQI) as used in China. In some embodiments, the AQI is above 100 ("slightly polluted"), above 150 ("moderately polluted"), above 200 ("heavily polluted"), or above 300 ("very heavily polluted"). In some embodiments, the AQI value is based on the levels of six air pollutants, namely sulfur dioxide (SO2), nitrogen dioxide (NO2), particulate matter with an aerodynamic diameter of less than 10 µm (PM10), particulate matter with an aerodynamic diameter of less than 2.5 µm (PM2.5), carbon monoxide (CO), and ozone (O3).
[0096] The term "safe and effective amount" refers to an amount of a compound or composition that is sufficient to produce a significant positive benefit.
[0097] The term "sensitive skin" refers to a neurosensory skin condition that leads to various clinical symptoms, including irritation, redness, or dryness. More precisely, sensitive skin is a syndrome defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations such as stinging, burning, pain, itching, or tingling in response to stimuli that should not normally elicit such sensations; furthermore, sensitive skin is characterized by the absence of any association between these sensations and skin pathology (Misery et al., Acta Derm Venereol 2017, 97: 4-6). Suitable tests for measuring sensitivity, inflammation, and irritation of the skin are well-established. One such test is the Jordan-King test, as described in Jordan, WP 1994, Jordan / King modification of the Draize Repeat Insult Patch Test, Clairol Study #94046, Test Dates Oct. 3, 1994-Nov.11, 1994, described, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
[0098] In this document, the term “signs of skin aging” includes wrinkles, dryness, loss of elasticity, suppleness, firmness, radiance and increased sensitivity of the skin.
[0099] The term "leave-on" refers to personal care products that are applied to and remain on the skin's keratin tissue. These leave-on products are distinct from those that are applied to the skin and then removed (within minutes or less) by washing, rinsing, wiping, or similar means. Leave-on products exclude rinse-off applications such as shampoos, facial cleansers, hand sanitizers, shower gels, or body washes. Leave-on products may be essentially free of cleansing or surfactant-active ingredients. For example, leave-on products may remain on the skin for at least 15 minutes. They may contain less than 1% cleansing surfactants, less than 0.5% cleansing surfactants, or 0% cleansing surfactants.However, the formulations may contain emulsifying or other processing surfactants that are not intended to offer any significant cleaning benefits when applied topically to the skin.
[0100] The term "rinse-off" means that the intended use of the body care composition involves application to the keratin tissue, followed by rinsing and / or wiping the product off the keratin tissue within a few seconds to minutes after application. The product is typically applied and rinsed off during the same process, such as showering.
[0101] The term “soluble” means that at least approximately 0.1 g of the solute dissolves in 100 ml of solvent at 25 °C and 1 atm pressure.
[0102] In this document, the term "body care composition" refers to compositions suitable for topical application to keratin tissue of mammals. Body care compositions
[0103] This publication includes body care formulations that slow the aging process or reduce the signs of aging, improve radiance, and diminish wrinkles in sensitive skin. Without committing to a specific theory, the publication's body care formulations delay aging and reduce the signs of aging in sensitive skin by improving collagen production, regulating epidermal cell metabolism, and reducing inflammation and oxidative stress. The publication's immediate body care formulations strengthen the skin barrier, provide intense hydration to the upper layers of the skin, protect and soothe even the most delicate skin, and revitalize it for a healthier, more youthful appearance.The immediate release body care compositions are suitable for use on sensitive skin and show results after just 10 to 14 days of daily use.
[0104] One aspect of the publication relates to a body care composition which, based on weight, includes: (a) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6% 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% - 10% (eg0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4% 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6% 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8% 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 10% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7% 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10% Rice (Oryza sativa) turbid concentrate, (d) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3% 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Panthenol, and (e) 0.001% - 5% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%) glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0105] Another aspect of the publication relates to a body care composition which, based on weight, includes the following: (a) 0.1% - 4% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%,) Niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% - 4% (eg, 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6% 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%) Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 2% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) Rice (Oryza sativa) turbid concentrate, (d) 0.1% - 3% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3% Panthenol, and (e) 0.002% - 4% (e.g., 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2% 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%) Glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0106] Another aspect of the publication relates to a body care composition which, based on weight, includes the following: (a) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6% 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% - 10% (eg, 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6% 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8% 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), (c) 0.001% - 10% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6% 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Rice turbidity concentrate (Oryza sativa), and (d) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3% 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) panthenol.
[0107] In some embodiments, “niacinamide” comprises the following formula:; derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
[0108] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) niacinamide, based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g., 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) niacinamide, based on weight.
[0109] In some embodiments, the edelweiss extract is as described in WO2001 / 087256 and EP 2623094. In some embodiments, the edelweiss extract is the product sold under the trade name Alpaflor® EDELWEISS by DSM Nutritional Products. In some embodiments, the edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) contains chlorogenic acid, luteolin-4'-O-glucoside, apigenin-7-O-glucoside, luteolin, and leontopodium acid as bioactive agents. In some embodiments, the edelweiss extract contains tannin. In some embodiments, the edelweiss extract is mixed with other substances such as propanetriol, glycerin, water, citric acid, sodium benzoate, ethyl alcohol, and potassium sorbate. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), based on weight.In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g. 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.0001% to 0.5% (e.g., 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, or 0.5%). %) Edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), based on weight.
[0110] In some embodiments, the edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) (e.g., from a manufacturer) is provided in a solution comprising the Leontopodium alpinum extract and a solvent (e.g., water, glycerin, or combinations thereof) with other ingredients (e.g., citric acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, etc.), the solution being subsequently added to the body care composition of the present publication. In some embodiments, the concentration of the Leontopodium alpinum extract in the provided solution (e.g., obtained from the manufacturer) is less than or equal to 10 wt%, 9.5 wt%, 9 wt%, 8.5 wt%, 8 wt%, 7.5 wt%, 7 wt%, 6.5 wt%, 6 wt%, 5.5 wt%, 5 wt%, 4.5 wt%, 4 wt%, 3.5 wt%, 3 wt%, 2.9 wt%, 2.8 wt%, 2.7 wt%, 2.6 wt%, 2.5 wt%, 2.4 wt%, 2.3 wt%, 2.2 wt%, 2.1 wt%, 2.0 wt%, 1.9 wt%, 1.8 wt%, 1.7 wt%, 1.6 wt%, 1.5 wt%, 1.4 wt%. 1.3 kg-%, 1.2 wt%, 1.0 wt%, 0.5 wt%, 0.1 wt% or less, based on the weight of the provided solution. Therefore, in some embodiments, the concentration of edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) in the body care composition (as set forth herein) indicates a concentration of a solution comprising the edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), based on the weight of the body care composition. For example, a concentration of 0.0001% to 10% edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) may indicate a concentration of the solution containing edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), based on the total weight of the body care composition.
[0111] Alternatively, in some embodiments, a concentration of 0.0001% to 5% edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) (or any other concentration specified herein) may constitute a concentration of the "dry" botanical active ingredient edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) based on the total weight of the body care composition. A non-limiting example: If the edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) is provided in a solution added, for example, at 3.0% by weight based on the total weight of the body care composition, and the "dry weight" of the soy-derived glycopeptides in the provided solution is 8.5% by weight based on the total weight of the provided solution, then the "dry weight" of the soy-derived glycopeptides in the body care composition would be 0.255% by weight based on the total weight of the body care composition.
[0112] In some embodiments, the rice turbidity concentrate (Oryza sativa) comprises amino acids, oleic acid, linolenic acid, phytic acid, palmitic acid, and vitamin B derivatives as bioactive agents. In some embodiments, the rice turbidity concentrate (Oryza sativa) comprises water, glycerin, Oryza sativa turbidity extract, propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and ethylhexylglycerin. In some embodiments, the rice turbidity concentrate (Oryza sativa) has a pH between 4.0 and 7.0. In some embodiments, the rice turbidity concentrate (Oryza sativa) has a specific gravity (d20 / 20) between 0.99 and 1.05.
[0113] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate, based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g. 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate, based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.001% to 1% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%) rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate, based on weight.
[0114] Similar to Edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), the concentration of rice (Oryza sativa) concentrate can be a concentration that refers to the total weight of the body care composition of a provided solution (e.g., from a manufacturer) comprising the active ingredient rice (Oryza sativa) concentrate and one or more solvents (e.g., water, glycerin, propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, or combinations thereof). Alternatively, the concentration of rice (Oryza sativa) concentrate can be a "dry weight concentration" of the active ingredient of the rice (Oryza sativa) concentrate relative to the total weight of the body care composition. For example, if the provided solution containing rice (Oryza sativa) concentrate is in the body care composition at a concentration of 1.0 wt.If -% is present and the active ingredient of the rice (Oryza sativa) turbid concentrate is present in the provided solution at a concentration of 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the provided solution, then the total “dry weight” of the active ingredient in the rice (Oryza sativa) turbid concentrate would be 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the body care composition.
[0115] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.01% to 2% (e.g., 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, or 2%) adenosine, based on the total weight of the body care composition.
[0116] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises 0.0001% to 3% (e.g., 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%). 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9% or 3%) Buddleja davidii extract, based on the total weight of the body care composition.
[0117] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises 0.0001% to 3% (e.g., 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%). 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9% or 3%) Thymus vulgaris extract, based on the total weight of the body care composition.
[0118] Similar to Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract and Rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate, the stated concentration of Thymus vulgaris extract or Buddleja davidii extract may be the concentration of a provided solution containing these active ingredients, or the 'dry weight' of these active ingredients relative to the total weight of the body care composition.
[0119] In some embodiments, “panthenol” comprises the following formula:; derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the aforementioned.
[0120] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) panthenol, based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g., 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) panthenol, based on weight.
[0121] In some embodiments, the soy-derived glycopeptides are glycopeptides obtained from highly purified soy fibers. In some embodiments, the soy-derived glycopeptides may be mixed with stabilizers and preservatives. An example of a soy-derived glycopeptide is sold by Silab under the trade name PRO-COLL-ONE+®.
[0122] In some embodiments, the soy-derived glycopeptides (e.g., from a manufacturer) are provided in a solution comprising the soy-derived glycopeptides (e.g., hydrolyzed soy flour) and a solvent (e.g., water, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, or combinations thereof), the solution being subsequently added to the body care composition of the present publication. In some embodiments, the concentration of the soy-derived glycopeptides in the provided solution (e.g., obtained from the manufacturer) is less than or equal to 10 wt.%, 9 wt.%, 8 wt.%, 7 wt.%, 6 wt.%, 5 wt.%, 4 wt.%, 3 wt.%, 2.9 wt.%, 2.8 wt.%, 2.7 wt.%, 2.6 wt.%, 2.5 wt.%, 2.4 wt.%, 2.3 wt.%, 2.2 wt.%, 2.1 wt.%, 2.0 wt.%, 1.9 wt.%, 1.8 wt.%, 1.7 wt.%, 1.6 wt.%, 1.5 wt.%, 1.4 wt.%, 1.3 wt.%, 1.2 wt.%, 1.0 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, 0.1 wt.% or less, based on the weight of the provided solution.Therefore, in some embodiments, the concentration of soy-derived glycopeptides (as set forth herein) indicates the concentration of a solution comprising the soy-derived glycopeptides (e.g., hydrolyzed soy flour) by weight of the body care composition. For example, a concentration of 0.001% to 5% of soy-derived glycopeptides may indicate the concentration of the solution containing soy-derived glycopeptides by weight of the body care composition.
[0123] Alternatively, in some embodiments, a concentration of 0.001% to 5% of soy-derived glycopeptides may indicate a concentration of the "dry" soy-derived glycopeptides (e.g., hydrolyzed soy flour) based on the total weight of the body care composition. A non-restrictive example: If the soy-derived glycopeptides (e.g., hydrolyzed soy flour) are provided in a solution added at 2.0% by weight of the total weight of the body care composition, and the "dry weight" of the soy-derived glycopeptides in the provided solution is 3.0% by weight of the provided solution, then the "dry weight" of the soy-derived glycopeptides in the body care composition would be 0.06% by weight of the body care composition.
[0124] In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0125] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, moisturizer, sunscreen, antioxidant, preservative, gelling agent, solvent, pH equalizer and surfactant.
[0126] In some embodiments, the anti-dehydration agent comprises at least one of xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylite, and xylitol. In some embodiments, the anti-dehydration agent comprises xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylite, and xylitol. In some embodiments, the anti-dehydration agent constitutes 0.01–0.5% by weight of the body care composition.
[0127] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0128] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerin, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, xanthan gum, sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, undecane, tridecane, tocopherol, dimethicone, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, and calcium aluminum borosilicate. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises each of the following: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerin, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, xanthan gum, sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, undecane, tridecane, tocopherol, dimethicone, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, and calcium aluminum borosilicate.
[0129] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises at least one of the following: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (0.001% - 0.05% by weight), glycerin (0.1% - 7% by weight), sodium hydroxide (0.001% - 0.1% by weight), phenoxyethanol (0.1% - 1% by weight), xanthan gum (0.05% - 0.5% by weight), sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (0.1% - 1.2% by weight), a plasticizer composition comprising undecane, tridecane and tocopherol (0.05% - 0.5% by weight), dimethicone (0.5% - 5% by weight) and a pigment composition comprising titanium dioxide, tin oxide and calcium aluminum borosilicate (0.005% - 0.05% by weight).
[0130] In some embodiments, the plasticizer composition includes Cetiol Ultimate™.
[0131] In some embodiments, the pigment composition includes Syncrystal Gold™.
[0132] In some embodiments, the body care composition further includes an exfoliating scrub. In some embodiments, the exfoliating particles are jojoba beads containing vitamin E.
[0133] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a cream, lotion, gel, mask, or spray. The body care composition described in the publication may be a skin care product, antiperspirant, deodorant, cosmetic, or hair care product. For example, the body care composition may be used as a moisturizer, conditioner, anti-aging agent, skin lightener, face mask, sunscreen, self-tanner, shaving cream, aftershave, and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, the composition is applied to the face, neck, hands, arms, and other typically exposed areas of the body.
[0134] Body care compositions can take a variety of forms. Non-restrictive examples include simple solutions (e.g., water- or oil-based), dispersions, and emulsions. Body care compositions can be liquid or solid (gels, sticks, free-flowing solids, amorphous materials). In certain embodiments, the body care composition is in the form of an emulsion. Emulsions can be generally classified as having a continuous aqueous phase (e.g., oil-in-water and water-in-oil-in-water) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in-oil and oil-in-water-in-oil).
[0135] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a composition that does not need to be washed off.
[0136] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a rinse-off composition.
[0137] In certain embodiments, the body care composition has a turbidity of approximately 5 nephelometric turbidity units (NTU) to less than approximately 3000 NTU, 1000 NTU, 500 NTU or 100 NTU.
[0138] In selected embodiments, the body care composition may be in a form comprising at least one discrete, visually distinguishable first phase and at least one discrete, visually distinguishable second phase. For the purposes of these selected embodiments, "visually distinguishable" means that the phases can be seen by the human eye as clearly separated regions (i.e., not emulsions or dispersions of particles). In some embodiments, at least one phase forms a stable pattern, for example, a continuous or broken line, a spiral, a curve, or another geometric shape, within a transparent phase, "within" meaning that one phase is substantially surrounded by the other phase and does not touch the side of a container.Alternatively, the phases can form a swirling pattern, with both phases alternately touching the side of a container, and with the width of each phase, when viewed through the side of a transparent container, being essentially constant but differing from one another. Alternatively, the phases can form a marbled pattern, with the phases alternately touching the side of the container, and with the width of each phase, when viewed through the side of a transparent container, varying in composition. In one embodiment, the first phase is a transparent, clear, or translucent aqueous phase, and the second phase is either an opaque white or colored non-aqueous phase. In another alternative embodiment, at least one aqueous phase forms a pattern within a non-aqueous phase.In some embodiments, the instant body care compositions may comprise three or more visually distinct and stable phases. Discrete, visually distinct multiphase compositions are described in US patent applications 2007 / 0297996, 2004 / 0057920, and 2004 / 0219119, all of which are incorporated by reference in their entirety. carrier
[0139] The body care composition may contain a carrier. Carriers may be selected based on various stability, aesthetic, and / or compatibility characteristics with other materials present in the body care composition.
[0140] Suitable carriers include water and / or water-soluble solvents. The body care composition may contain between approximately 1% and approximately 95% by weight of water and / or water-equivalent solvent. The composition may comprise approximately 1%, 3%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, or 90% to approximately 90%, 85%, 80%, 75%, 70%, 65%, 60%, 55%, 50%, 45%, 40%, 35%, 30%, 25%, 20%, 15%, 10%, or 5% water and / or a water-equivalent solvent. "Water-equivalent solvent" refers to a compound that has a similar ability to water to dissolve a material. Suitable water-equivalent solvents include monohydric alcohols, dihydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, glycerol, glycols, polyalkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.Particularly suitable solvents are lower aliphatic alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol; diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, decanediol; glycerin; water and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the body care composition comprises water, diols, glycerin and combinations thereof.
[0141] Suitable carriers include oils. The body care composition can comprise approximately 1% to approximately 95% by weight of one or more oils. The composition can comprise approximately 1%, 3%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, or 90% to approximately 90%, 85%, 80%, 75%, 70%, 65%, 60%, 55%, 50%, 45%, 40%, 35%, 30%, 25%, 20%, 15%, 10%, or 5% of one or more oils. Oils can be used to dissolve, disperse, or transport materials that are not suitable for water or water-like solvents. Suitable oils include silicones, hydrocarbons, esters, fatty amides, ethers, and mixtures thereof. Oils can be liquid at room temperature. However, certain forms of personal care products (e.g., solid or semi-solid sticks) may require non-liquid oils. The oils can be volatile or non-volatile."Non-volatile" means that a material has a vapor pressure of no more than approximately 0.2 mm Hg at 25 °C and one atmosphere, and / or that a material has a boiling point of at least approximately 300 °C at one atmosphere. "Volatile" means that the material has a vapor pressure of at least approximately 0.2 mm Hg at 20 °C. Volatile oils can be used to create a lighter feel when a heavy, greasy film is undesirable.
[0142] Suitable oils include volatile oils. In certain formulations, volatile oils can have a viscosity in the range of approximately 0.5 to approximately 5 centistokes at 25°C. Volatile oils can be used to promote faster drying of the skincare composition after application to the skin. Non-volatile oils are also suitable for use in the formulation. Non-volatile oils are often used for their emollient and protective properties. Non-volatile oils can have a viscosity of approximately 5 to approximately 800,000 cst (or more) or from approximately 20 to approximately 200,000 cst.
[0143] Suitable silicone oils include polysiloxanes. Polysiloxanes can have a viscosity of approximately 0.5 to approximately 1,000,000 centistokes at 25 °C. Such polysiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula: R3SiO[R2SiO] x SiR3 where R is independently selected from hydrogen or C 1-30 straight- or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl, or aryl, trialkylsiloxy; and x is an integer from 0 to approximately 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. In certain embodiments, R is hydrogen, methyl, or ethyl. Commercially available polysiloxanes include the polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as dimethicones. Examples include Shin-Etsu's DM Fluid series, Momentive Performance Materials Inc.'s Vicasil® series, and Dow Corning Corporation's Dow Corning® 200 series. Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning® 200 liquids (also available as Xiameter® PMX-200 silicone liquids) with viscosities of 0.65, 1.5, 50, 100, 350, 10,000, 12,500, 100,000 and 300,000 centistokes.
[0144] Suitable dimethicones include those represented by the following chemical formula: R3SiO[R2SiO] x [RR'SiO] y SiR3 where R and R' each independently of each other hydrogen or C 1-30 straight- or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, or trialkylsiloxy; and x and y are each integers from 1 to 1,000,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Suitable silicones include phenyl dimethicone (Botansil™ PD-151 from Botanigenics, Inc.), diphenyl dimethicone (KF-53 and KF-54 from Shin-Etsu), phenyl trimethicone (556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning), or trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (PDM-20, PDM-200, or PDM-1000 from Wacker-Belsil). Other examples are alkyl dimethicones where at least R' is a fatty alkyl (e.g., C). 12-22A suitable alkyl dimethicone is cetyl dimethicone, where R' is a straight C16 chain and R is methyl. Cetyl dimethicone is available as s 2502 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning or as Abil Wax 9801 or 9814 from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH.
[0145] Cyclic silicones are a type of silicone oil that can be used in ready-to-use personal care products. These silicones have the general formula: where R is independently selected from hydrogen or C. 1-30straight- or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl, or aryl, trialkylsiloxy; and where n=3-8 and mixtures thereof. A mixture of cyclomethicones where n is 4, 5, and / or 6 is commonly used. Commercially available cyclomethicones include Dow Corning UP-1001 Ultra Pure Fluid (i.e., n=4), Dow Corning XIAMETER® PMX-0245 (i.e., n=5), Dow Corning XIAMETER® PM X-0245 (i.e., n=6), Dow Corning 245 Fluid (i.e., n=4 and 5), and Dow Corning 345 Fluid (i.e., n=4, 5, and 6).
[0146] Other silicone oils suitable for use in body care compositions include polymers with the general formula: (R1) a G 3-a -Si-(-OSiG2) n -(-OSiG b (R1) 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a (R1) a
[0147] where G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy or C1-C8 alkyl, preferably methyl; a is a number from 0 to 3; b is 0 or 1, preferably 1; n is a number from 0 to 1999 (alternatively from 49 to 499); m is an integer from 1 to 2000 (alternatively from 1 to 10); the sum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2000 (alternatively from 50 to 500); R1 is a monovalent residue of the general formula (CH2) q L corresponds to where q is an integer with a value from 1 to 8 and L is selected from the following groups: -N(R2)CH2-CH2-N(R2)2 -N(R2)2 -N(R2)3A - -N(R2)CH2-CH2-NR2H2A - wherein R2 is hydrogen, phenyl or aryl or a saturated hydrocarbon residue, preferably an alkyl residue from about C1 to about C 20 , and A is a halide ion. An example silicone polymer is trimethylsilylamodimethicone, as shown in the following formula:
[0148] Another exemplary silicone polymer is represented by the general formula: where R 3 a monovalent hydrocarbon residue with C1 to C 18 is, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl, such as methyl; R4 is a hydrocarbon, preferably a C1 to C 18 -Alkylene or a C 10 - to C 18 -Alkylenoxy, in particular a C1 to C8 alkylenoxy; Q - is a halide ion, preferably chloride; r is an average statistical value of 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 8; s is an average statistical value of 20 to 200, preferably 20 to 50. A suitable polymer of this class is UCARE SILICONE ALE 56™, available from Union Carbide. Other suitable silicone materials are listed in U.S. Patent Application No. 2007 / 0039103 A1.
[0149] Suitable hydrocarbon oils include straight-chain or branched alkanes and alkenes. The chain length can be selected based on desired functional properties such as volatility. Suitable hydrocarbon oils can have between 5 and 20 carbon atoms or, alternatively, between 8 and 16 carbon atoms. Suitable hydrocarbons include pentane, hexane, heptane, decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane, and C₆. 8-20 Isoparaffins, as published in U.S. patent applications Nos. 3,439,088 and 3,818,105. Suitable hydrocarbons include isooctane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and isoeicosane from Permethyl Corporation under the trade name Permethyl®. Suitable hydrocarbon oils may contain more than approximately 20 carbon atoms. Examples of such hydrocarbon oils are C 24-28 -Olefins, C 30-45 -Olefins, C 20 - 40-Isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalane and mixtures thereof.
[0150] Other suitable oils are esters. Suitable esters generally contain at least 10 carbon atoms. These esters include esters with hydrocarbon chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols (e.g., monoesters, esters of polyhydric alcohols, and di- and tricarboxylic acid esters). The hydrocarbon residues of the esters may contain or have other compatible functional groups covalently bonded to them, such as amides and alkoxy units (e.g., ethoxy or ether bonds, etc.). Examples of suitable esters include isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, dihexyl decyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, and oleyl adipate. Further suitable esters are listed in the Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th edition.The 2010 edition is described in more detail under the functional category "Ester".
[0151] Other esters suitable for use in personal care compositions are monocarboxylic acid esters of the general formula R'COOR, where R' and R' are straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyls and aryls, and the sum of the carbon atoms in R' and R' is at least 10. A suitable monoester is alkyl benzoate, such as C 12-15 -Alkyl benzoate.
[0152] Other esters suitable for use in body care compositions include di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids, such as esters of C4 to C8 dicarboxylic acids (e.g., C1 to C8). 22-Esters, preferably C1 to C6, of succinic acid, glutaric acid and adipic acid). Specific, non-restrictive examples of di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids include isocetylstearyol stearate, diisopropyl adipate, dibutyl adipate and tristearyl citrate.
[0153] Other esters suitable for use in personal care formulations are the so-called polyhydric alcohol esters. These polyhydric alcohol esters include alkylene glycol esters, such as ethylene glycol mono- and difatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and difatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol mono- and difatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and difatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and difatty acid esters, polyglycerol polyfatty acid esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters.
[0154] Other esters suitable for use in body care compositions include glycerides, including but not limited to mono-, di-, and triglycerides. For use in the compositions described here, the glycerides can be mono-, di-, and triesters of glycerol and long-chain carboxylic acids, such as C 10 - to C 22-Carboxylic acids. A variety of these types of materials can be obtained from vegetable and animal fats and oils, such as castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, camelina oil (Camelina sativa), rapeseed oil, tamanu seed oil, linseed oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, soybean oil, and the like. Synthetic oils include, among others, triolein and tristearin glyceryl dilaurate.Other glyceryl esters of fatty acids include fatty acid mono-, di-, and triglycerides, which are natural fats or oils that have been modified, such as glyceryl stearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl diisotearate, glyceryl tetraisostearate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl isostearate, PEG castor oils, PEG glyceryl oleate, PEG glyceryl stearate, PEG glyceryl talgates, and the like.
[0155] Other suitable oils are fatty amides. Fatty amides include compounds with a functional amide group that are liquid at 25 °C and insoluble in water. In certain embodiments, the fatty amide can have the general formula: where R1 is an optionally functionalized, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon residue with 1 to 30 carbon atoms (alternatively 1 to 22 carbon atoms); R2, R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are hydrogen or optionally functionalized, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon residues with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 22 carbon atoms; r is 0 or 1; q is an integer from 0 to 2; and p is equal to 0 or 1. Special fatty acid amides include N-acetyl-N-butylaminopropionate, isopropyl-N-lauroylsarcosinate and N,N-diethyltoluamide.Other suitable fatty amides are published in US patent application no. 6,872,401.
[0156] Other suitable oils are ethers. Suitable ethers include saturated and unsaturated fatty ethers of a polyhydric alcohol and alkoxylated derivatives thereof. Examples of suitable ethers include C4-20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols and Di-C 8-30 -Alkyl ethers. Suitable examples of these materials include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Emulsifiers
[0157] The personal care composition may contain an emulsifier. An emulsifier is particularly useful when the composition is in the form of an emulsion or when immiscible materials are combined. The personal care composition may contain between 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.5%, or 1% and approximately 20%, 10%, 5%, 3%, 2%, or 1% emulsifier. Emulsifiers may be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. Non-restrictive examples of emulsifiers are published in U.S. Patent Application No. 3,755,560, U.S. Patent Application No. 4,421,769, and McCutcheon, Emulsifiers and Detergents, 2010 Annual Ed., published by MC Publishing Co. Further suitable emulsifiers are described in more detail in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th edition, 2006, of the Personal Care Product Council under the functional category “Surfactants - Emulsifying Agents”.
[0158] Suitable emulsifying ethers and esters include:
[0159] Esters of polyglycols and fatty alcohols - including saturated or unsaturated C 12-30 Alcohols (e.g., oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol) and polyglycols comprising an n number of oxyalkylene groups, where n is an integer from 1 to 200 or alternatively from 2 to 30 (e.g., 1 to 20 oxyethylene groups). Specific examples are compounds with the INCI names Steareth-n, Beheneth-n, or Oleth-n. Suitable examples are compounds with the INCI names Steareth-8, Steareth-10, Steareth-16, Steareth-20, Ceteth-10, Laureth-4, Laureth-3, Trideceth-6, Ceteareth-5, Oleth-10, and Beneth-10.
[0160] Esters of polyglycols and fatty acids - including saturated or unsaturated C 12-30Fatty acids (e.g., oleic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid) and polyglycols comprising n oxyalkylene groups, where n is an integer from 1 to 200 or alternatively 1 to 50 (e.g., 1 to 20 oxyethylene groups). Specific examples include compounds with the INCI name PEG-n-stearate or PEG-n-oleate. Suitable examples are polyethylene glycol-8-monostearate, polyethylene glycol-10-distearate, or polyethylene glycol-12-distearate.
[0161] Esters of polyglycols and of fatty alcohols that are glycosylated—including C12-30 alcohols with 1 to 10 glycosyl groups and polyglycols comprising n oxyalkylene groups, where n is an integer from 1 to 200 (e.g., 1 to 20 oxyethylene groups). A suitable example is polyoxyethyleneized (20 OE) methyl glucose distearate.
[0162] Esters of polyglycols and of glycosylated fatty acids - including C 12-30-Fatty acids with 1 to 10 glycosyl groups and polyglycols comprising n oxyalkylene groups, where n is an integer from 1 to 200 (e.g. 1 to 20 oxyethylene groups).
[0163] Esther of C 12-30 Alcohols and of glycerol or of polyglycerol – a suitable example includes polyglyceryl-3-cetyl ethers, such as Chimexane NL from Chimex, esters of C12-30 fatty acids and of glycerol or of polyglycerol – including esters comprising 1 to 10 glycerol groups. Specific examples include hexaglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexacaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, the esters of glycerol and of palmitic and stearic acids, and glyceryl mono- and dibehenate.
[0164] Esters of oxyalkylene-modified C 12-30 -Alcohols and glycerin or polyglycerin.
[0165] Esther of C 12-30- Fatty alcohols containing sucrose or glucose - suitable examples are compounds with the INCI names C 12-18 -Alkyl glucoside, C 12-20 -Alkyl glucoside (e.g., Montanov L from Seppic), cetearyl glucoside (e.g., a mixture with cetearyl alcohol under the reference Montanov 68 from Seppic), myristyl glucoside (e.g., a mixture with myristyl alcohol under the reference Montanov 14 from Seppic) or cetearyl glucoside (e.g., Tegocare CG 90 from Evonik Goldschmidt),
[0166] Sucrose esters and C 12-30-Fatty acid esters - Particular examples are sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose hexaerucate, sucrose hexapalmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose mortierellate, sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, Sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose polybehenate, sucrose polycotton seedate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose polylinoleate, sucrose polyoleate, sucrose polypalmate, sucrose polysoyate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tetraisostearate and sucrose trilaurate. A suitable example is the mixture of esters (mono- and polyesters) of stearic acid and sucrose, which is marketed by Croda under the name Crodesta FI 10.
[0167] Esters of pentaerythrite and C 12-30 -Fatty acids - Special examples are pentaerythritol tetrastearate.
[0168] Esters of sorbitol and / or sorbitan and C 12-30-Fatty acids - Specific examples are sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate or sorbitan laurate, such as Span 20 from Uniqema,
[0169] Ethers of sorbitol and / or sorbitan and alkoxylated sorbitan - suitable examples are Sorbeth-8 beeswax or Sorbeth-20 beeswax from Nikko Chemical.
[0170] Esters of polyglycols and cholesterol - Notable examples are Choleth-3, Choleth-10 (such as Emalex CS-10 from Nihon Emulsion Company), Choleth-15 (such as Emalex CS-15 from Nihon Emulsion Company) or Choleth-20 (such as Emalex CS-20 from Nihon Emulsion Company).
[0171] Esther of C 12-30 -fatty acids and alkoxylated ethers of sorbitol and / or suitable examples, including polysorbate-60, polysorbate-61, sorbeth-3 isostearate, polyoxyethylene-coated 4 OE sorbitan monostearate and polyoxyethylene-coated 20 OE sorbitan tristearate.
[0172] Linear or branched silicone emulsifiers can also be used. Particularly useful polyether-modified silicones include KF-6011, KF-6012, KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6017, KF-6043, KF-6028, and KF-6038 from Shin Etsu. Polyglycerolated linear or branched siloxane emulsifiers are also particularly useful, including KF-6100, KF-6104, and KF-6105 from Shin Etsu. Examples of suitable materials include those with the following INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names: Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 Dimethicone; Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-isobutyl PEG / PPG-10 / 7 Dimethicone copolymer; Bis-PEG / PPG-18 / 6 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 Dimethicone; Bis(PPG-7 Undeceneth-21-Dimethicone; Cetyl Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate; Cetyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 16 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone;Cetyl PEG / PPG-7 / 3 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone; Dimethicone PEG-15 Acetate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Cocoate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-IO Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG / PPG-7 / 4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG / PPG-12 / 4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Undecylenate; Lauryl Dimethicone PEG-IO Phosphate; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethicone; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethiconol; Isostearyl Carboxyldecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl Methicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone; PEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-7 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-9 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-32 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-PEG / PPG-28 / 21 Acetate Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-22 / 22 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-23 / 23 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-24 / 18 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-3 / 10 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-4 / 12 Dimethicone;PEG / PPG-6 / 11 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-8 / 14 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-12 / 16 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-12 / 18 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-14 / 4 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-15 / 5 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-15 / 15 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-16 / 2 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-16 / 8 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-18 / 12 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-19 / 19 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 6 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 15 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 20 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-20 / 29 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-22 / 23 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-25 / 25 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-27 / 27 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-30 / 10 Dimethicone; PEG / PPG-10 / 3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-8 trisiloxane; Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone; PPG-12 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Silicone Quaternium-17; TEA-Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; und Mischungen davon.;
[0173] Emulsifiers also include emulsifying silicone elastomers. Suitable emulsifying silicone elastomers may contain at least one polyalkyl ether or polyglycerol unit. These cross-linked elastomers may also be co-modified to include alkyl substituents. Suitable molding methods are described in U.S. Patent Applications Nos. 5,236,986; 5,412,004; 5,837,793; and 5,811,487.Polyoxyallylenated emulsifying silicone elastomers that can be used in at least one embodiment of the publication include those marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicones under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33; KSG-210 (dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer dispersed in dimethicone); KSG-310 (PEG-15 lauryldimethicone crosspolymer); KSG-320 (PEG-15 lauryldimethicone crosspolymer dispersed in isododecane); KSG-330 (PEG-15 lauryldimethicone crosspolymer dispersed in triethylhexanoin) and KSG-340 (PEG-10 lauryldimethicone crosspolymer and PEG-15 lauryldimethicone crosspolymer) are sold. Other silicone emulsifying elastomers are offered by Dow Corning™, including PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymers (DC 9010 and 9011). Other suitable silicone emulsifiers sold by Dow Corning are DC9010 and DC9011.
[0174] Polyglycerinated emulsifying silicone elastomers are described in PCT / WO 2004 / 024798. These elastomers include the KSG series from Shin-Etsu, such as KSG-710 (dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer dispersed in dimethicone), or lauryldimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer dispersed in a variety of solvents such as isododecane, dimethicone, triethylhexanoin, available as KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, or KSG-840 from Shin-Etsu.
[0175] Another suitable cross-linked silicone elastomer emulsifier is dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, which offers excellent aesthetics due to its elastomeric backbone and also exhibits outstanding emulsifying properties. Other examples of cross-linked organosiloxane emulsifiers include, but are not limited to: dimethicone / dimethicone PEG / PPG 15 crosspolymer; dimethicone PEG-10 crosspolymer; dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer; dimethicone PEG-15 crosspolymer; dimethicone polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer; dimethicone PPG-20 crosspolymer; lauryl dimethicone PEG-15 crosspolymer; lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer; PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20 crosspolymer; and PEG-10 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer; PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer; PEG-15 laurylpolydimethylsiloxy ethyl crosspolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0176] It should be noted that silicone elastomers may be supplied pre-swollen with a solvent. For a pre-swollen elastomer, the weight percentages specified for emulsifier consumption (i.e., from approximately 0.05% to approximately 20%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 3% emulsifier) refer to the elastomer alone (i.e., without the weight of the solvent). Structuring tools
[0177] The body care composition may contain a structuring agent. Structuring agents can be used to increase viscosity, thicken, solidify, or impart a solid or crystalline structure to the body care composition. The structuring agent can be used to suspend or disperse the abrasive particles. Structuring agents are generally grouped according to solubility, dispersibility, or phase compatibility. Examples of aqueous or water-containing structuring agents include polymeric agents, natural or synthetic gums, polysaccharides, and the like. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 5% to approximately 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5%, 4%, or 2%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more structuring agents.
[0178] Polysaccharides and gums can be used as thickening agents for the aqueous phase. Examples of such polysaccharides and gums are naturally derived materials such as agar, agarose, alicaligen polysaccharides, algin, alginic acid, acacia gum, amylopectin, chitin, dextran, cassia gum, cellulose gum, gelatin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid, hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, pectin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pectin, trehelose, gelatin, ammonium alginate, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, and mixtures thereof.Suitable polysaccharides include alkylhydroxyalkylcellulose ethers such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is an ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the brand name Natrosol® Plus CS by Ashland Aqualon Functional Ingredients. Other useful polysaccharides are scleroglucans, which comprise a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with one (1-6) glucose unit linked every three units. A commercially available example is Clearogel™ CS 11 from MMP, Inc.
[0179] Suitable classes of polymeric structuring agents include, among others, carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, sulfonated polymers, high molecular weight polyalkyl glycols or polyglycerols, copolymers thereof, hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0180] Carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers. These polymers are cross-linked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, with the cross-linking agent containing two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and derived from a polyhydric alcohol. Suitable materials include the Carbopol® 900 series (e.g., Carbopol® 945, Carbopol® 940, Carbopol® 950, Carbopol® 954, Carbopol® 980, Carbopol® 951, and Carbopol® 981 from Noveon, Inc.) and the Carbopol® Ultrez series (e.g., Carbopol® Ultrez 10 polymer, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer, and Carbopol® Ultrez 21 polymer). Other suitable carboxylic acid polymer agents are copolymers of Co10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short-chain (i.e.,C1-4-alcohol) esters, wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as acrylates / C. 10-30 -Alkyl acrylate crosspolymers known and commercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382, PEMULEN™ TR-1 and PEMULEN™ TR-2 from Noveon, Inc.
[0181] Sulfonated polymers include polymers and copolymers containing 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (i.e., AMPS or acryloyldimethyl tauric acid) and its salts. Exemplary AMPS structuring agents include the sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, available as SIMULGEL® EG and SIMULGEL® EPG, and the hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, available as SIMULGEL® NS, SIMULGEL® FL, and SIMULGEL® I-NS 100, distributed by Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, NJ). Another suitable sulfonated polymer is sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, available as Simulgel® 800 from Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, NJ). Other suitable sulfonated polymers include acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / acrylic acid copolymer, available as Acudyne™ SCP from Rohm and Haas Company, Inc.Acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, available as Simulgel® 600 from Seppic; Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, available as Aristoflex® BLV from Clariant International Ltd.; Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / carboxyethyl acrylate crosspolymer, available as Aristoflex® TAC from Clariant International Ltd.; Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, available as Aristoflex® AVC from Clariant International Ltd.; Dimethylacrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate crosspolymer, available as SUpolymer G-1 from Toho Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.; Sodium acrylate / acryloyldimethyl taurate / dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer, available as Sepinov™ P88 from Seppic; and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP crosspolymer, available as Aristoflex® AVS from Clariant International, Ltd. Other sulfonated structuring agents are described in the publications of US patent applications No.described in 2007 / 0140993 (as a gelling agent in the form of a copolymer of acryloyldimethyl tauric acid or a salt thereof) and 2006 / 0147396 A1 (as a polymer containing at least one sulfofunctional monomer).
[0182] Acrylamide polymers and copolymers include SEPIGEL® 305 from Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, NJ), listed in the Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th Edition, 2010, as "polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7." Other polyacrylamide polymers are multiblock copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multiblock copolymers include HYPAN® SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, and SSSA100H from Lipo Chemicals, Inc. (Patterson, NJ).
[0183] High molecular weight polyalkyl glycols or polyglycerols can be used as structuring agents. Suitable materials include polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polypropylene glycol (PPG) derivatives with a degree of polymerization (n). n can range from 50 to 200,000. Other suitable materials are polyglycerols with repeating glycerol units, where the number of repeating units is between approximately 15 and 200 or between approximately 20 and 100. Examples of suitable polyglycerols are those with the INCI names Polyglycerin-20, Polyglycerin-40, and the like.
[0184] Examples of oil structuring agents include silicone and organic-based materials. Suitable concentrations for oil structuring agents range from approximately 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 2.5%, 5%, or 10% to approximately 30%, 25%, 20%, 15%, 10%, or 5%. Suitable oil-phase structuring agents can be silicone-based, such as silicone elastomers, silicone rubbers, silicone waxes, and linear silicones with a degree of polymerization that allows the silicone to increase the viscosity of the oil phase. Examples of silicone structuring agents include silicone elastomers, silicone rubbers, and silicone waxes.
[0185] Silicone elastomers suitable for use in the compositions described in this publication include those formed by addition reaction curing, whereby a SiH-containing diorganosiloxane reacts with an organopolysiloxane with terminal olefinic unsaturation or an alpha-omega diene hydrocarbon in the presence of a platinum metal catalyst. Such elastomers can also be formed by other reaction methods, such as…by condensation-crosslinking organopolysiloxane compositions in the presence of an organotin compound via a dehydrogenation reaction between a terminal hydroxyl diorganopolysiloxane and a SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane or an alpha-omega diene; or by condensation-crosslinking organopolysiloxane compositions in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester using a condensation reaction between a terminal hydroxyl diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organosiloxane; peroxide-curing organopolysiloxane compositions that thermally cure in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst. Crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present publication and methods for their preparation are described in US patent claims 4,970,252, 5,760,116 and 5,654,362, 6,524,598 and 6,696,049.It is particularly desirable to include silicone elastomers in the formulations of the publication, as they give the composition an excellent “feel”, are very stable in cosmetic formulations and are relatively inexpensive.
[0186] Suitable silicone elastomers can be in powder form or dispersed or dissolved in solvents such as volatile or non-volatile silicones or silicone-compatible carriers such as hydrocarbons or esters. Examples of silicone elastomer powders include vinyl dimethicone / methicone silesquioxane crosspolymers such as KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, and KSP-105, available from Shin-Etsu; hybrid silicone powders containing a fluoroalkyl group, such as KSP-200, available from Shin-Etsu, which is a fluorosilicone elastomer; and hybrid silicone powders containing a phenyl group, such as KSP-300, available from Shin-Etsu, which is a phenyl-substituted silicone elastomer; and DC 9506, available from Dow Corning.
[0187] Examples of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone-compatible carrier include dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by various vendors, including Dow Corning Corporation under the trade names DC9040 or DC9041, Momentive under the trade name SFE 839, and Shin-Etsu Silicones under the trade names KSG-15, 16, and 18. KSG-15 has the INCI name cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. KSG-18 has the INCI name diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone (and) dimethicone / phenylvinyldimethicone crosspolymer. Silicone elastomers can also be purchased from Grant Industries under the brand name Gransil. Other suitable silicone elastomers feature long-chain alkyl substitutions, such as... B. Lauryldimethicone / Vinyl-Dimethicone crosspolymers, which are marketed by Shin Etsu under the trade names KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44.
[0188] Silicone rubbers are another structuring agent for the oil phase. Silicone rubbers typically have a viscosity of approximately 500,000 to 100 million cSt at 25 °C, approximately 600,000 to 20 million cSt, and approximately 600,000 to 12 million cSt. The silicone rubbers used in the compositions include, but are not limited to, those of the general formula, where: R1 to R 10 Each is independently hydrogen, an alkyl with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, aryl, or aralkyl; and XH, OH, or a C1-30 alkyl or vinyl. x, y, or z can be zero, provided that (x+y+z)≥1.
[0189] Such silicone rubbers can be purchased in pure form from a variety of silicone manufacturers, including Wacker-Chemie, Dow Corning, and others. Silicone rubbers also include products marketed by Wacker-Belsil under the trade names CM3092, Wacker-Belsil 1000, and Wacker-Belsil DM 3096. A silicone rubber containing X OH, also known as dimethiconol, is available from Dow Corning Corporation under the trade names 1-1254 Fluid, 2-9023 Fluid, and 2-9026 Fluid. Silicone rubber can also be purchased as a solution or dispersion in a silicone-compatible carrier such as volatile or non-volatile silicone. An example of such a mixture is available from Bamet Silicones under the trade name HL-88, with the INCI name Dimethicone.Another example is a mixture of dimethiconol and volatile or non-volatile silicone, available from Dow Corning Corporation under the trade names 1401 Fluid, 1403 Fluid and 1501 Fluid.
[0190] Another type of oily phase structuring agent is silicone wax. Silicone waxes can also be called alkyl silicone waxes, which are semi-solid or solid at room temperature. The term "alkyl silicone wax" refers to a polydimethylsiloxane with a substituted long alkyl chain (e.g., C16 to C30) that imparts semi-solid or solid properties to the siloxane. Examples of such silicone waxes include stearyldimethicone, available from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH under the trade name Abil Wax 9800 or from Dow Corning under the trade name 2503. Other examples include bis-stearyldimethicone (available from Gransil Industries under the trade name Gransil A-18), behenyldimethicone, and behenoxydimethicone.
[0191] Other suitable structuring agents are polyamides and polysilicone-polyamide copolymers. Suitable polysilicone-polyamide copolymers are published in US patent application no. 2004 / 0170586. A specific example of such copolymers is Dow Corning's nylon 611 / dimethicone copolymers under the trade name Dow Corning 2-8178.Also suitable are polyamides such as those purchased from Arizona Chemical under the following trade names: Uniclear™ and Sylvaclear® including Sylvaclear® A200V or A2614V (INCI name: Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer / Bis-di-C14-18-Alkylamide); Sylvaclear® AF1900V and Sylvaclear® PA1200V (INCI name: Polyamide-3); Sylvaclear® C75V (INCI name: Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine / Neopentyl Glycol / Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer); Sylvaclear® PE400V (INCI name: Polyamide-6); Sylvaclear® WF 1500V (INCI name: Polyamide-4); or Uniclear™ 100 VG (INCI name: Ethylenediamine / Stearyldimer Dilinoleate Copolymer; or Ethylenediamine / Stearyldimer Ditalate Copolymer).
[0192] Other oil-phase structuring agents may contain one or more natural or synthetic waxes, such as animal, vegetable, or mineral waxes. Generally, such waxes have a melting point between approximately 25 °C and 125 °C or between approximately 30 °C and approximately 100 °C. Suitable waxes include non-restrictive examples such as silicone waxes, fatty esters, etc. B. Cetyl and / or stearyl esters, acacia, beeswax, ceresin, flower, citrus, carnauba, jojoba, Japan, polyethylene, microcrystalline, rice bran, lanolin, mink, montan, laurel, ouricury, ozokerite, palm kernel, paraffin, avocado wax, apple wax, shellac wax, clary sage wax, spent grain wax, candelilla, grape wax, polyalkylene glycol derivatives thereof (e.g. PEG6-20 beeswax or PEG-12 carnauba wax) and mixtures of any of the aforementioned waxes.In one embodiment, the wax is a polyethylene wax, and alternatively, a polyethylene wax with a melting point of less than 120 °C, alternatively less than 95 °C, and alternatively less than 85 °C.
[0193] Non-restrictive examples of suitable silicone waxes are published in US patent applications Nos. 5,413,781 and 5,725,845 and further include alkylmethylpolysiloxanes, C 10 -C 60 -Alkyldimethicone and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the silicone wax can be a C 16 -C 28 -Alkyldimethicone wax. Other suitable silicone waxes include, but are not limited to, stearoxydimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, stearyldimethicone, cetearyldimethicone, cetyldimethicone and mixtures thereof.
[0194] Other structuring agents are natural or synthetic montmorillonite minerals such as hectorite, bentonite and quaternized derivatives thereof, which are obtained by reacting the minerals with a quaternary ammonium compound (e.g. stearalkonium bentonite and stearalkonium hectorite).
[0195] Other structuring agents include silicic acids, silicates, silica silylate, and their alkali metal or alkaline earth metal derivatives. These silicic acids and silicates are generally present in particulate form and include silica, silica silylate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and the like. Additional ingredients
[0196] Body care formulations may contain one or more additional components to create an effective and / or consumer-desired product. For example, the formulation may contain other active ingredients or agents.For example, suitable optional active ingredients and agents may include an active ingredient or agent selected from a group consisting of the following: sugaramines, vitamins, oil control agents, photosterols, hexamidine compounds, firming agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-atrophy agents, flavonoids, N-acylamino acid compounds, retinoids, peptides, particulate materials, UV agents, photostables, anti-cellulite agents, desquamating agents, anti-acne agents, antioxidants, free radical scavengers, conditioning agents, anti-inflammatory agents, tanning agents, skin lighteners, plant extracts, antimicrobial agents, antifungal agents, antibacterial agents, antiperspirant agents, sensates, preservatives, anti-dandruff agents, substantive polymers, surfactants, and combinations thereof. Suitable, non-restrictive examples are discussed in more detail below. 1. Sugar amines
[0197] The personal care compositions described in this publication may contain a sugaramine, also known as an amino sugar. Sugaramine compounds useful in this publication may include those described in PCT Publication WO 02 / 076423 and U.S. Patent Application No. 6,159,485. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% to approximately 10%, 7%, 5%, or 2%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more sugaramines.
[0198] Sugaramines can be of synthetic or natural origin and can be used as pure compounds or as mixtures of compounds (e.g., extracts from natural sources or mixtures of synthetic materials). Glucosamine, for example, is found in many shellfish and can also be obtained from fungi. As used here, "sugaramine" includes isomers and tautomers of these compounds and their salts (e.g., the HCl salt) and is commercially available from Sigma Chemical Co.
[0199] Examples of sugaramines that are useful here include glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetylmannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetygalactosamine, their isomers (e.g., stereoisomers), and their salts (e.g., HCl salt). Glucosamine, especially D-glucosamine, and N-acetylglucosamine, especially N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, are preferred. 2. Vitamins
[0200] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise approximately 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% to approximately 10%, 7%, 5%, or 2%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more vitamins. "Vitamins" means vitamins, provitamins, and their salts, isomers, and derivatives. Suitable vitamins include, but are not limited to, the following examples: vitamin B compounds (including B1 compounds, B2 compounds, B3 compounds, B5 compounds such as panthenol or "pro-B5," pantothenic acid, pantothenyl; B6 compounds such as pyroxidin, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine; carnitine, thiamine, riboflavin); vitamin D compounds; vitamin K compounds; Vitamin E compounds or tocopherol, including tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol and tocopheryl compounds; vitamin C compounds, including ascorbate, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids and ascorbic acid derivatives, e.g.Ascorbyl phosphates such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl sorbate; and vitamin F compounds such as saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids.
[0201] In some embodiments, the body care compositions do not contain any vitamin A compounds or any natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A, including retinoids, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinyl propionate, carotenoids (provitamin A) or other compounds that possess the biological activity of vitamin A.
[0202] In certain formulations, the body care compositions contain a vitamin B3 compound.
[0203] Vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulating skin conditions, as described in U.S. Patent Application No. 5,939,082, the publication of which is hereby incorporated in its entirety by reference. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% to approximately 50%, 20%, 10%, 7%, or 5%, based on the weight of the composition, of the vitamin B3 compound.
[0204] As used here, “vitamin B3 compound” means a compound with the formula: where R is -CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid), or -CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
[0205] Exemplary derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid (e.g., tocopherol nicotinate, myristyl nicotinate), nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide, and niacinamide N-oxide.
[0206] In certain embodiments, the body care compositions contain a vitamin C compound. In some embodiments, the vitamin C compound is a vitamin C derivative.
[0207] In some embodiments, the vitamin C derivative is ascorbyl palmitate with the formula: derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the aforementioned.
[0208] In some embodiments, the vitamin C derivative is magnesium ascorbyl phosphate with the formula: derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the aforementioned.
[0209] In some embodiments, the vitamin C derivative is ethyl ascorbic acid with the formula: derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the aforementioned. 3. Phytosterols
[0210] The body care composition may contain a phytosterol. For example, one or more phytosterols may be selected from the group consisting of: sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, α-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, analogues, and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, the phytosterol is selected from the group consisting of 3-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof. In one selected embodiment, the phytosterol is stigmasterol.
[0211] Phytosterols can be of synthetic or natural origin and are used as essentially pure compounds or as mixtures of compounds (e.g., extracts from natural sources). Phytosterols are generally found in the unsaponifiable fraction of vegetable oils and fats and exist as free sterols, acetylated derivatives, sterol esters, ethoxylated, or glycosidic derivatives. Free sterols are preferred. As used here, "phytosterol" includes isomers and tautomers thereof and is commercially available from Aldrich Chemical Company, Sigma Chemical Company, and Cognis.
[0212] In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% or 1% up to approximately 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5% or 3%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more phytosterols. 4. Hexamidine compounds
[0213] The body care compositions may contain hexamidine compounds, their salts, and derivatives. For the purposes of this description, "hexamidine compound" means a compound with the formula: where R 1 and R 2 optional or organic acids (e.g. sulfonic acids, etc.).
[0214] In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% or 1% to approximately 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5% or 3%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more hexamine compounds.
[0215] As used here, hexamidine derivatives include all isomers and tautomers of hexamidine compounds, including, but not limited to, organic and mineral acids, e.g., sulfonic acid, carboxylic acid, etc. In a selected embodiment, the hexamidine compounds include hexamidine diisethionate, which is commercially available as Eleastab® HP100 from Laboratories Serobiologiques. 5. Punitive measures
[0216] The body care composition may contain a firming agent. A firming agent is a compound that has a firming effect on keratin tissue, typically the skin. Suitable firming agents may be selected from plant or animal proteins and their hydrolysates, such as maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelt, peas, beans, lentils, soybeans, and lupins, as well as from polysaccharides of natural origin, including (i) polyholosides, for example, in the form of starch, derived particularly from rice, maize, potatoes, cassava, peas, wheat, oats, etc.is obtained, or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agar, gellan, cellulose polymers and pectins, advantageously as an aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (ii) latices of shellac resin, sandarac resin, dammar, elemi, copals, cellulose compounds and mixtures thereof; mixed silicates including layered silicates and especially laponites; colloidal particles of inorganic fillers such as silicon dioxide / aluminum oxide colloid particles marketed under the trademark LUDOX® by WR Grace & Co.; synthetic polymers such as polyurethane latices or acrylic / silicone latices, especially those described in U.S. Patent Application No.described in 2002 / 0131948, including propylthio(polymethyl acrylate), propylthio(polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio(polymethacrylic acid), grafted polydimethylsiloxane, propylthio(polyisobutyl methacrylate) and propylthio(polymethacrylic acid) grafted polydimethylsiloxane (available under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 and L021 from 3M); and mixtures thereof.
[0217] The body care composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% or 1% to approximately 30%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5% or 3% of the weight of the composition of one or more firming agents. 6. Anti-wrinkle / anti-atrophy agents
[0218] The body care formulations described in this publication may contain one or more anti-wrinkle or anti-atrophy active ingredients. Examples of anti-wrinkle / anti-atrophy active ingredients suitable for use in the formulations described in this publication include dialkanoylhydroxyproline compounds, hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid), keto acids (e.g., pyruvic acid), phytic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, stilbenes, cinnamic acid, resveratrol, kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, peptides from natural sources (e.g., soy peptides), and salts of sugar acids (e.g., manganese gluconate, zinc gluconate). In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% or 1% to approximately 30%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5% or 3%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more anti-wrinkle / anti-atrophy compounds.
[0219] Suitable dialkanoylhydroxyproline compounds that are the subject of this publication may include those corresponding to the following chemical formula: where R 1 H, X, C1-C 20 , straight-chain or branched alkyl, X metals (Na, K, Li, Mg, Ca) or amines (DEA, TEA) is; R 2 a straight-chain or branched C1-C 20 -Alkyl is; R 3 a straight-chain or branched C1-C 20 -Alkyl is.
[0220] Suitable derivatives include, among others, esters, such as fatty acid esters, including but not limited to tripalmitoylhydroxyproline and dipalmitoylacetylhydroxyproline. Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline is a particularly useful compound. As used here, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline comprises all its isomers and tautomers and is commercially available under the trade name Sepilift DPHP® from Seppic, Inc. Further information on dipalmitoylhydroxyproline can be found in PCT Publication WO 93 / 23028. Preferably, the dipalmitoylhydroxyproline is the triethanolamine salt of dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, as discussed in U.S. Patent Application No. 7,285,570. 7. Flavonoids
[0221] The personal care compositions described in this publication may contain a flavonoid compound. Flavonoids have been extensively disclosed in U.S. patent applications Nos. 5,686,082 and 5,686,367. Examples of flavonoids particularly suitable for use in this publication include one or more flavones, one or more isoflavones, one or more coumarins, one or more chromones, one or more dicoumarols, one or more chromanones, one or more chromanols, isomers (e.g., cis / trans isomers) thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0222] Flavonoids include, for example, flavones and isoflavones, notably daidzein (7,4'-dihydroxyisoflavone), genistein (5,7,4'-trihydroxyisoflavone), equol (7,4'-dihydroxyisoflavone), 5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyisoflavone, soya isoflavones (a mixture extracted from soya), and other plant sources of such mixtures (e.g., red clover), as well as mixtures thereof. Other exemplary materials include flavanones such as hesperitin, hesperidin, and mixtures thereof. Flavonoid compounds useful here are commercially available from a number of sources, such as Indofine Chemical Company, Inc., Steraloids, Inc., and Aldrich Chemical Company, Inc.
[0223] In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5% or 1% to approximately 30%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5% or 3%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more flavonoid compounds. 8. Particle materials
[0224] The personal care compositions described in this publication may include one or more additional particle materials. Non-restrictive examples of particle materials useful in this publication include colored and uncolored pigments, interference pigments, inorganic powders, organic powders, compound powders, optical brightener particles, and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the composition may contain approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, or 2% to approximately 50%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5%, or 3% of the composition's weight in particles. There are no specific restrictions regarding the pigment, dye, or filler powders used in the composition.
[0225] Suitable particle materials include, but are not limited to, bismuth oxychloride, sericite, mica, mica treated with barium sulfate or other materials, zeolite, kaolin, silica, boron nitride, lauroylysine, nylon, polyethylene, talc, styrene, polypropylene, polystyrene, ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, polyurethane, aluminum oxide, silicone resin, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, cellulose acetate, PTFE, polymethyl methacrylate, starch, modified starches such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, silk, glass, and mixtures thereof. Suitable commercial examples of particles include polymeric particles selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane resin microspheres, such as materials marketed under the Tospearl® brand name by Momentive Performance Materials Inc.microspheres made of polymethyl methacrylates, such as Micropearl M305 from SEPPIC; spherical particles made of cross-linked polydimethylsiloxanes, especially those marketed by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 9506 Cosmetic Power; spherical particles made of polyamide, and especially of Nylon 12, such as the products in the Orgasol® 2002 series from Atochem; polystyrene microspheres, such as those marketed under the name Dynospheres® from Dyno Particles; ethylene acrylate copolymer, marketed under the name EA209 from Kobo; PTFE; polypropylene; aluminum starch octenyl succinate, as sold under the name Dry-Flo® from AkzoNobel; polyethylene microspheres, such as those sold under the name Microthene® FN510-00 from Equistar and under the name Micropoly from Presperse, Inc.; silicone resin; Polymethylsilsesquioxane silicone polymer and mixtures thereof.Suitable particle materials include spherical powders with an average primary particle size of approximately 0.1 to approximately 75 micrometers or of approximately 0.2 to approximately 30 micrometers.
[0226] Other suitable particle materials are interference pigments. For the purposes of this specification, interference pigments are defined as thin, platelet-shaped layer particles having two or more layers of controlled thickness with different refractive indices, producing a characteristic reflected color from the interference of typically two, but occasionally more, light reflections from different layers of the platelet-shaped particle. The most common examples of interference pigments are mica coated with films approximately 50–300 nm thick of TiO₂, Fe₂O₃, silicon dioxide, tin oxide, and / or Cr₂O₃. Such pigments are often pearlescent. Pearlescent pigments reflect, refract, and transmit light due to the transparency of the pigment particles and the large difference in refractive index between mica platelets and, for example, the titanium dioxide coating.Useful interference pigments are commercially available from a variety of suppliers, such as Rona (Timiron™ and Dichrona™), Presperse (Flonac™), Englehard (Duochrome™), Kobo (KTZ Interfine and KTZ Interval), BASF (Reflecks™), and Eckart (Prestige series). Suitable interference pigments may have a small particle size, with the average diameter of individual particles in the longest direction being less than approximately 75 micrometers or less than approximately 50 micrometers.
[0227] Other particle materials are pigments, which can impart color to the personal care composition. Suitable pigments include inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and combinations thereof. Examples of such useful inorganic pigments are iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, and chromium oxide. Organic pigments can include natural dyes and synthetic monomeric and polymeric dyes. An example of this is the blue and green pigment phthalocyanine. Also useful are lacquers, primary FD&C or D&C lacquers, and mixtures thereof. Also useful are encapsulated soluble or insoluble dyes and other coloring agents. Inorganic white or colorless pigments useful in this publication, such as TiO₂, ZnO, or ZrO₂, are commercially available from a number of sources. An example of a suitable particle material is that of USCosmetically available material (TRONOX TiO2 series, SAT-T CR837, a rutile TiO2). Suitable pigments include charged dispersions of titanium dioxide, as published in U.S. patent application no. 5,997,887.
[0228] Colored or uncolored pigments can have a primary average particle size ranging from approximately 10 nm, 15 nm, or 20 nm to approximately 100,000 nm, 5,000 nm, or 1,000 nm. Mixtures of the same or different pigments with varying particle sizes are also useful (e.g., adding TiO2 with a primary particle size of approximately 100 nm to approximately 400 nm to TiO2 with a primary particle size of approximately 10 nm to approximately 50 nm).
[0229] The particle materials can be surface-treated to provide additional stability and / or facilitate formulation. Suitable coating materials include non-restrictive examples such as silicones, lecithin, amino acids, metal soaps, polyethylene, and collagen. These surface treatments can be hydrophobic or hydrophilic. Particularly useful hydrophobic pigment treatments include polysiloxane treatments, as described in U.S. Patent Application No. 5,143,722. 8. UV active ingredients (light protection filters)
[0230] The formulations for immediate release may contain a UV active ingredient. As used herein, a “UV active ingredient” or “sunscreen filter” includes both sunscreens and physical sunscreens. Suitable UV active ingredients may be organic or inorganic. Suitable UV active ingredients are listed in the functional category “sunscreen” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook of the Personal Care Product Council, 13th edition, 2010.
[0231] Suitable UV active ingredients include dibenzoylmethane derivatives, including 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (i.e., butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane or avobenzone) (commercially available as PARSOL® 1789 from DSM), 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. 2,6-Dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Other suitable UV agents are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL® MCX from DSM), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, benzophenone-3 (i.e.,Oxybenzone), octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl 4-(bis(hydroxypropyl))aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexyl salicylate, methyl anthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonbenzoxazoic acid, octocrylene, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures of these compounds.
[0232] Particularly suitable UV-active substances that are useful in the compositions of this publication are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
[0233] Other suitable UV agents include 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (marketed as PARSOL® 5000 from DSM or Eusolex 6300 from Merck), methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol (i.e., bisoctrizole, marketed as Tinosorb® M from BASF), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenol triazine (i.e., bemotrizinol, marketed as Tinosorb® S from BASF), disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (i.e., bisdisulizole disodium, marketed as Neo Heliopan® AP from Symrise), ethylhexyl triazone (marketed as Uvinul® T 150 from BASF), drometrizole trisiloxane (marketed by L'Oréal under the name Mexoryl XL), and sodium dihydroxy dimethoxy disulfobenzophenone (i.e., benzophenone-9, marketed as Uvinul® DS). 49 from BASF), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (commercially available as Uvinul® A Plus from BASF), diethylhexyl butamido triazone (i.e.Iscotrizinol (commercially available as Uvasorb® HEB from 3V Sigma), polysilicone-15 (i.e., commercially available as PARSOL® SLX from DSM) and isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate (i.e., amiloxate, commercially available as Neo Heliopan® E 1000 from Symrise). 9. Photostabilizers
[0234] A suitable photostabler is alpha-cyanodiphenyl acrylate, as published in U.S. Patent Application No. 7,713,519. The alpha-cyanodiphenyl acrylate can have the following general formula: where one or both of R1 and R2 are independently a straight-chain or branched C1-30 alkoxy group and each non-alkoxy group R1 or R2 is hydrogen; and R3 is a straight-chain or branched C1-30 alkyl. Alternatively, one or both of R1 and R2 are independently a C1-8 alkoxy group and each non-alkoxy group R1 or R2 is hydrogen; and R3 is a straight-chain or branched C2-20 alkyl. Alternatively, one or both of R1 and R2 are independently a methoxy group and each non-methoxy group R1 or R2 is hydrogen; and R3 is a straight-chain or branched C2-20 alkyl.
[0235] A suitable alpha-cyanodiphenyl acrylate is ethylhexyl methoxycrylene or 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-phenylpropenoate, where R1 is methoxy, R2 is hydrogen, and R3 is 2-ethylhexyl. This material is available from the Hallstar Company under the trade name Solastay® S 1.
[0236] Another suitable photostabler is a diester or polyester of naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, as published in U.S. patent applications Nos. 5,993,789, 6,113,931, 6,126,925, and 6,284,916. Suitable diesters or polyesters of naphthalenedicarboxylic acid may have the following formula: where each R 1 independently an alkyl group with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or a diol with the formula HO-R 2 -OH or a polyglycol with the formula HO-R 3 -(-OR 2 -)m-OH is, and where R 2 and R 3The carbon atoms, whether the same or different, are straight-chain or branched alkylene groups with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, where m and n are 1 to approximately 100, 1 to approximately 10, or 2 to approximately 7, respectively. A suitable diester of naphthalenedicarboxylic acid is diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, available as Corapan® TQ from Symrise.
[0237] Other suitable photostablets are 4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate derivatives or 4-hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives. Suitable materials may have the following formula: where A is a chromophoric group that absorbs UV radiation, comprising a divalent group or two monovalent groups, with at least one group having a carbonyl functionality (C=O); R' is hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C1-C8 alkoxy radical; and R'' is a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical.Example compounds include ethyl-alpha-cyano-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, ethyl-alpha-acetyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, isopropyl-alpha-acetyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, Isoamyl-alpha-acetyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, 2-ethylhexyl-alpha-acetyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, diethyl 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate, di-(2-ethylhexyl)-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate, Diisoamyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate, didodecyl 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate, Dipalmitoyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate and diisopropyl-3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate. A particularly suitable compound is diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (INCI name), which is available under the trade name Oxynex® ST from EMD Chemicals, Inc. and has the following formula:
[0238] Other suitable 4-hydroxybenzylidene malonate derivatives or 4-hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives are published in US patent application no. 7,357,919 and US patent application no. 2003 / 0108492A1 and US2003 / 0157035A.
[0239] Another suitable light protectant is a 2-pyrrolidinone-4-carboxylic acid ester compound. Suitable 2-pyrrolidinone-4-carboxylic acid ester compounds can have the following formula: where R 1 a straight or branched C1-C 20 -Alkyl group is and R 2 a straight or branched C1-C 20 The -alkyl group is one that can contain a C5-C6 ring, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, or a phenethyl group. Examples of R groups are... 1 and R 2These include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, dodecyl, hexadecyl, cyclohexyl, and methylcyclohexyl groups. Specific examples of 2-pyrrolidinone-4-carboxylic ester compounds are listed in US patent application no. 2010 / 0183529.
[0240] Other suitable photostable agents include: silicon-containing s-triazines substituted with two aminobenzoate or aminobenzamide groups, as described in US patent application no. 2008 / 0145324; fluorene derivatives, as described in US patent applications no. 2004 / 00579912, 2004 / 00579914, 200 / 00579916 and 2004 / 062726; piperidinol salts, as described in US patent application no. 2005 / 0220727, including tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, marketed by Ciba under the trade name Tinogard® Q; and arylalkylamides and esters, as described in US patent application no. 2008 / 0019930.
[0241] Other suitable sunscreens are listed in the functional category "Sunscreens" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook of the Personal Care Product Council, 13th edition, 2010.
[0242] In one embodiment, the body care composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% up to approximately 30%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, or 5%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more suitable photostablers. In certain embodiments, the body care composition may comprise at least one photostabler and at least one UV active ingredient. In certain embodiments, the UV active ingredient is a dibenzoylmethane derivative. In one particular embodiment, the UV active ingredient is 4,4'-t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (i.e., avobenzone). 10. Antioxidants / Free radical scavengers
[0243] The personal care compositions described in this publication may contain an antioxidant / free radical scavenger. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% to approximately 30%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5%, or 3%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more antioxidants / free radical scavengers.
[0244] Suitable antioxidants are listed in the functional category "Antioxidants" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook of the Personal Care Product Council, 13th edition, 2010.
[0245] Suitable antioxidants include butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and butylhydroxyanisole (BHA). BHT can be described by the general formula: where X is OH or SH; Y is selected from the group consisting of H, OH, OR5, COOR5, Alkyl, Cycloalkyl, Heteroalkyl, Heterocycloalkyl, Aromat, Heteroaromat, Carboxamido, Sulfonamido, Carbamate, Urea and Trialkylsilyl; R1, R2, R3, R4 are selected from the group consisting of the following: alkyl, cycloalkyl, heteroalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, aromatic, heteroaromatic, OR5, carboxamido, sulfonamido, formyl, acyl, carboxyl, carboxylate, carbamate, urea, trialkylsilyl, hydroxyl and hydrogen; R5 is selected from the group consisting of the following: alkyl, cycloalkyl, heteroalkyl, heterocycloalkyl, aromatic, heteroaromatic, trialkylsilyl, acyl and hydrogen.
[0246] Other antioxidants / free radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the trade name Trolox®), amines (e.g., N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, aminoguanidine), nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, amino acids, silymarin, sorbic acids and their salts, lipoic acid, olive extracts, green tea extracts, white tea extracts, black tea extracts, polyphenols such as proanthocyanidins from pine bark, carotenoids, curcumin compounds such as tetrahydrocurcumin, OCTA (L-2-oxo-4-thiazolidine carboxylic acid), glutathione, and grape skin / grape seed extracts may be used. Suitable antioxidants / radical scavengers can be selected from tocopherol esters such as tocopherol acetate.
[0247] In one embodiment, the body care composition contains tocopherol sorbate. As used herein, “tocopherol sorbate” refers to the sorbic acid ester of tocopherol, a detailed description of which can be found in granted U.S. patent application No. 5,922,758. In one embodiment, the composition may contain tocopherol sorbate in amounts ranging from approximately 0.0001%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% to approximately 50%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, or 5% by weight of the composition. 11. Plant extracts
[0248] The personal care compositions for immediate release may contain plant extracts. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise approximately 0.0001%, 0.0005%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, or 1% up to approximately 30%, 25%, 20%, 10%, 7%, 5%, or 3%, based on the weight of the composition, of one or more plant extracts. Suitable plant extracts include extracts from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds) such as flowers, fruits, vegetables, etc., including yeast ferment extract, Padina pavonica extract, Thermus thermophilus ferment extract, Camelina sativa seed oil, Boswellia serrata extract, olive extract, Bodopsis thaliana extract, Acacia dealbata extract, Acer saccharinum extract (sugar maple), Acidopholus, Acorus, Aesculus, Alicaligenes polysaccharides, Agaricus, Agave, Agrimonia, algae, aloe, citrus fruits, Brassica, cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry, cranberry, peach, pear, lemon, lime, pea, seaweed, caffeine, green tea, chamomile, willow bark, mulberry, poppy and the like.Other specific examples include Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Salix Nigra, Macrocycstis Pyrifera, Pyrus Malus, Saxifraga Sarmentosa, Vitis Vinifera, Morus Nigra, Scutellaria Baicalensis, Anthemis Nobilis, Salvia Sclarea, Rosmarinus Officianalis, Citrus Medica Limonum, Ginkgo Biloba Panax Ginseng, Siegesbeckia Orientalis, Fructus Mume, Ascophyllum Nodosum, Bifida Ferment lysate, Glycine Soja Extract, Beta Vulgaris, Haberlea Rhodopensis, Polygonum Cuspidatum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis, Vitis Vinifera, Selaginella Tamariscina, Humulus Lupulus, Citrus Reticulata Peel, Punica Granatum, Asparagopsis, Curcuma Longa, Menyanthes Trifoliata, Helianthus Annuus, Hordeum Vulgare, Cucumis Sativus, Evernia Prunastri, Evernia Furfuracea, Laminaria Angustata, Laminaria Cloustoni, Laminaria Digitata, Laminaria Hyperborea, Laminaria Japonica, Laminaria Longissima, Laminaria Ochotensis, Laminaria Ochroleuca, Laminaria Saccharina and mixtures thereof.Other suitable active ingredients are listed in the functional category “Biological Products” in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook of the Personal Care Product Council, 13th edition, 2010.
[0249] Any other suitable optional component may also be included in the personal care composition of this publication, such as ingredients commonly used in certain types of products. The Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 13th edition, 2010, describes a wide variety of non-restrictive functional materials that may be added to the composition contained herein. Examples of these functional classes include, but are not limited to: abrasives, absorbents, fragrances, anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, antifoaming agents, and antimicrobial agents (e.g., antibacterial agents).Iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antifungal agents, antioxidants, binders, buffers, fillers, chelating agents, dyes, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, astringent drugs, external analgesics, film formers, opacifiers, pH regulators, plant derivatives, plant extracts, plant tissue extracts, plant seed extracts, plant oils, plants, biotan extracts, preservatives, propellants, reducing agents, sebum control agents, sequestrants, skin bleaching agents, skin conditioners (e.g., humectants and occlusives), and skin protectants. Other suitable optional ingredients for body care are the materials listed in paragraphs 513-839 of U.S. Patent Application No. 2010 / 0112100. Methods for treating sensitive skin
[0250] Another aspect of the publication concerns a method for reducing or slowing down at least one sign of aging in a test subject with sensitive skin, which involves administering a body care composition described herein to the test subject. In some embodiments, the application of the body care composition leads to a reduction in wrinkles or a delay in their onset.
[0251] Another aspect of the publication concerns a method for testing a test subject with sensitive skin, which consists of administering a body care composition described herein to the subject. In some embodiments, the sensitive skin exhibits at least one unpleasant sensation prior to treatment, wherein the at least one unpleasant sensation is selected from the group consisting of tingling, heat, burning, itching, tightness, and redness.
[0252] In some embodiments, the body care composition includes niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice (Oryza sativa) scum concentrate, panthenol and glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0253] In some embodiments, the test subject is a human being. In some embodiments, the test subject was exposed to environmental pollution. In some embodiments, the test subject was exposed to air pollution. In some embodiments, the test subject was exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 100. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 150. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 200. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 250. In some embodiments, the test subject is exposed to air pollution with an Air Quality Index (AQI) above 300.
[0254] In some embodiments, the body care composition, based on weight, comprises the following: (a) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7% 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% - 10% (e.g.0.001%, 0.002%, 0.005%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4% 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6% 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 10% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2% 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Rice (Oryza sativa) turbid concentrate, (d) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3% 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Panthenol, and (e) 0.001% - 5% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, %, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%) glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0255] In some embodiments, the body care composition, based on weight, comprises the following: (a) 0.1% - 4% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%,) Niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% - 4% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.005%, 0.008%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%) Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 2% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) Rice (Oryza sativa) turbid concentrate, (d) 0.1% - 3% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3% Panthenol, and (e) 0.002% - 4% (e.g., 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4% 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%) glycopeptides derived from soy.
[0256] In some embodiments, the body care composition, based on weight, comprises the following: (a) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7% 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% - 10% (e.g.0.001%, 0.002%, 0.005%, 0.008%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5% 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7% 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 10% (e.g., 0.001%, 0.002%, 0.003%, 0.004%, 0.005%, 0.006%, 0.007%, 0.008%, 0.009%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9% 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1% 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) rice turbidity concentrate (Oryza sativa), and (d) 0.1% - 10% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3% 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%) panthenol.
[0257] In some embodiments, “niacinamide” comprises the following formula: derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
[0258] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) niacinamide, based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g., 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) niacinamide, based on weight.
[0259] In some embodiments, the edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum) contains chlorogenic acid, chlorogenic acid derivatives, luteolin-7-O-glucoside, luteolin-4'-O-glucoside, apigenin-7-O-glucoside, luteolin, and leontopodium acid as bioactive agents. In one particular embodiment, the edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract comprises Alpaflor® edelweiss extract.
[0260] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g. 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), based on weight.
[0261] In some embodiments, the rice turbidity concentrate (Oryza sativa) comprises amino acids, oleic acid, linolenic acid, phytic acid, palmitic acid, and vitamin B derivatives as bioactive agents. In some embodiments, the rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate has a pH value between 4.0 and 7.0. In some embodiments, the rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate has a specific gravity (d20 / 20) between 0.99 and 1.05.
[0262] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate, based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g. 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate, based on weight.
[0263] In some embodiments, “panthenol” comprises the following formula: derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the aforementioned.
[0264] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.1% to 2% (e.g., 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2%) panthenol, based on weight. In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises 0.5% to 1.5% (e.g., 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%) panthenol, based on weight.
[0265] In some embodiments, the soy-derived glycopeptides are glycopeptides obtained from highly purified soy fibers. In some embodiments, the soy-derived glycopeptides may be mixed with stabilizers and preservatives. An example of a soy-derived glycopeptide is sold by Silab under the trade name PRO-COLL-ONE+®.
[0266] In some embodiments, the body care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives.
[0267] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: water, moisturizer, sunscreen, antioxidant, preservative, gelling agent, solvent, pH equalizer and surfactant.
[0268] In some embodiments, the anti-dehydration agent comprises at least one of xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylite and xylitol.
[0269] In some embodiments, the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
[0270] In some embodiments, the body care composition further comprises at least one of the following: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerin, sodium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, xanthan gum, sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, undecane, tridecane, tocopherol, dimethicone, titanium dioxide, tin oxide and calcium aluminum borosilicate.
[0271] In some embodiments, the body care composition comprises at least one of the following: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid (0.001% - 0.05% by weight), glycerin (0.1% - 7% by weight), sodium hydroxide (0.001% - 0.1% by weight), phenoxyethanol (0.1% - 1% by weight), xanthan gum (0.05% - 0.5% by weight), sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (0.1% - 1.2% by weight), a plasticizer composition comprising undecane, tridecane and tocopherol (0.05% - 0.5% by weight), dimethicone (0.5% - 5% by weight) and a pigment composition comprising titanium dioxide, tin oxide and calcium aluminum borosilicate (0.005% - 0.05% by weight).
[0272] In some embodiments, the plasticizer composition includes Cetiol Ultimate™. In some embodiments, the pigment composition includes Syncrystal Gold™.
[0273] In some embodiments, the body care composition further includes an exfoliating scrub. In some embodiments, the exfoliating particles are jojoba beads containing vitamin E.
[0274] In some embodiments, the body care composition is a cream, a lotion, a gel, a mask, or a spray.
[0275] In some embodiments, the sensitive skin exhibits at least one unpleasant sensation prior to treatment, wherein the at least one unpleasant sensation is selected from the group consisting of tingling, heat, burning, itching, tightness and redness.
[0276] In some embodiments, the application of the body care composition leads to a reduction in wrinkles or a delay in the onset of wrinkles.
[0277] In some embodiments, the administration of the body care composition reduces the signs of skin aging by at least 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 99% or more compared to the administration of the same compound without niacinamide, edelweiss extract (Leontopodium alpinum), rice tuber concentrate (Oryza sativa), panthenol and soy-derived glycopeptides.
[0278] In some embodiments, the body care composition is administered topically. In some embodiments, the body care composition is administered every hour, every 2 hours, every 3 hours, every 6 hours, every 12 hours, or every day, every other day, or every three days. Preferably, the composition is administered once, twice, or three times daily. In some embodiments, the body care composition is administered for at least 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 days before a reduction in the signs of skin aging is observed in sensitive skin (reduction of wrinkles, e.g., in the area of crow's feet) or at least one unpleasant sensation is observed in sensitive skin (e.g., tingling, heat, burning, itching, tightness, and redness).
[0279] The publication will now be described in general terms and is easier to understand with the help of the following example. This example serves only to illustrate certain aspects and embodiments of the present publication and is not intended to limit the publication. EXAMPLES Example 1: In-vitro and in-vivo tests
[0280] The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of the body care compositions described here in vitro and in vivo. In some experiments, the body care compositions consisted of niacinamide, edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, rice (Oryza sativa) tuber concentrate, and panthenol as active ingredients. The body care compositions described here, formulated for sensitive skin in the healthy aging process, were compared with a retinol-containing serum. The inventors compared the procollagen and proelasticity expression, the inflammatory response, and the clinical outcomes of aging between the body care compositions described here and the retinol serum. Materials and methods
[0281] In vitro tests were performed on cultured normal human skin fibroblasts (NHDF) using test compositions containing the same key active ingredients as described above, but without retinol, and a retinol serum as a control. The expression of collagen, elastin, IL-8, and PGE-2 was measured 48 hours (age marker) and 72 hours (inflammatory marker) after treatment, respectively.
[0282] In vivo tests assessed the following signs of skin aging: parameters of surface roughness and wrinkles (crow's feet) after 56 days of twice-daily application of Composition 3, Composition 4 or the Retinol Serum. Results
[0283] An important sign of healthy skin aging is the presence of procollagen and elastin, the expression of which of both mRNA and protein was strongly induced by the composition containing the active ingredients, while no effect was observed with the individual active ingredients alone.
[0284] When using the retinol serum, signs of skin inflammation were observed, as measured by the induced expression of IL-8 (+582%, p<0.001 compared to control) and PGE-2 (+104%, p<0.01). This negative inflammatory signature was not observed with either the immediate formulation, which reduced the expression of IL-8 (-97%, p<0.05) and PGE-2 (-69%, p<0.01), or the facial serum, which reduced the expression of IL-8 (-81%, p<0.05) and PGE-2 (not significantly).
[0285] The main active ingredient contained in the instant formulations showed anti-wrinkle properties, as measured by a significant reduction of the parameter Sa by 9.8% (p=0.0014), a flattening of the skin relief of the crow's feet (78%, p=0.0761) and a significant reduction of wrinkles by decreasing the negative volume by 21.1% (p=0.001) and the positive volume by 27% (p=0.0014). conclusion
[0286] The results showed that the instant body care formulations have a similar signature to retinol, but without the risk of increased skin sensitivity, as anti-inflammatory effects were observed in both the face and eye serums. Particularly good results were seen with the eye serum. Overall, the eye and face serums, formulated for the healthy aging of sensitive skin, counteract the signs of aging while avoiding the skin irritations often seen with retinol. Example 2: Clinical trials - General results
[0287] The safety and efficacy of an embodiment of the body care compositions described herein, which contain niacinamide, edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, rice (Oryza sativa) tuber concentrate, panthenol and highly purified soy-based glycoproteins (composition A) as active ingredients, were investigated in a multicenter clinical study involving two groups of test subjects: 44 Caucasian and 46 Asian women who applied a facial cream containing the composition twice daily to the entire face for 8 and 12 weeks, respectively. Table 1: Examples of compositions used in clinical trials. Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Composition 4 Composition 5 Active ingredients % % % % % Panthenol Provitamin B5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 Edelweiss extract (prepared solution) 0,01 3 0,5 3 3 Rice turbidity concentrate (prepared solution) 1 1 1 1 1 Soy-based glycopeptides (prepared solution) 0 0 2 2 0 Niacinamide - Vitamin B3 0 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5
[0288] Safety was assessed through a patch test, a Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT), photosensitization, a non-comedogenicity study, and a 2-month multicenter application study. Efficacy was assessed through expert clinical evaluation during the 2- or 3-month multicenter application study, instrumental analysis (skin relief analysis during the application study), measurements of hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), antioxidant activity, and self-assessment questionnaires. Results
[0289] Hydration and TEWL analysis revealed a moisturizing effect with a significant improvement in hydration immediately after application (+68% after 1 hour compared to the control group, p<0.05), which lasted up to 24 hours (+12%, p<0.05), and a significant decrease in TEWL measurement after 1 hour, indicating a protective effect against water loss. Consequently, the formulations described here provide immediate and long-lasting hydration and immediate protection of the skin barrier.
[0290] The application of compositions 1-5 offered significant antioxidant properties (calculated protection index 36.1%, p<0.05). In fact, a statistically significantly higher squalene concentration was measured in the treated and exposed area than in the untreated exposed area (+48%, p<0.05).
[0291] Dermatologist-controlled self-assessment questionnaires showed a positive effect of compositions 1-5 on sensitive skin. After four weeks of using the facial serum, a significant decrease in the global Sensiscale score was observed in both groups of test subjects (Asians -83%, Caucasians -66%, p<0.05), contributing to a reduction in skin sensitivity, which felt more comfortable, reacted less, and looked healthier.
[0292] Clinical evaluation of the application test showed an increase in the skin's radiance, luminosity, homogeneity, texture, firmness, and elasticity, as well as in the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Wrinkle imaging and relief analysis revealed a significant decrease in total wrinkle surface area (-23% compared to baseline, p<0.05), total wrinkle length (-16%, p<0.05), and total wrinkle depth (-15%, p<0.05) after four weeks of daily application of the facial serum.
[0293] The self-assessment questionnaire, which rated satisfaction with compositions 1-5, showed a high level of appreciation by the volunteers regarding skin hydration, radiance, fine lines and wrinkles, as well as the effects on skin firmness, suppleness and elasticity, and skin fatigue, in both groups of volunteers. Conclusions
[0294] Because sensitive skin ages faster than normal skin, the inventors tested safe and well-tolerated body care formulations, as described here, suitable for the aging of healthy, sensitive skin. The blend of five ingredients in the body care products offered clinical benefits for sensitive skin in terms of long-lasting hydration, protection of the skin barrier, antioxidant properties, and overall positive effects. In particular, the skin appeared more radiant and elastic, exhibited fewer and shorter wrinkles, and received very positive reviews. Example 3: Clinical Assessments - Details
[0295] The following clinical tests were conducted with the immediate release product, which contains panthenol, edelweiss extract, and rice trub concentrate as active ingredients: single patch test, HRIPT, phototoxicity, photosensitization, dermatological and ophthalmic controlled application test + efficacy – Asian test subject group, dermatological controlled application test + efficacy – Caucasian test subject group, hydration and TEWL (short-term effect), non-comedogenicity study, in vivo antioxidant test, deep cleansing / anti-pollution test, makeup remover test (cleanser only), and skin barrier restoration study. The products were tested in the form of a cleansing water, night cream, face serum, eye serum, and day cream. Single patch test 48 hours
[0296] Test subject population: healthy, number of test subjects: 18 [14 women - 4 men], average age of test subjects: 31 [18 - 45 years old].
[0297] Method: Single 48-hour topical application under occlusive dressing on the upper back.
[0298] Evaluation criteria: The mean irritation index was evaluated by a dermatologist. MCII = 0.06 - Rating: good.
[0299] Results: No response to stimuli was observed under the study conditions. HRIPT (Human Repeated Insult Patch Test)
[0300] Test subject population: healthy, number of test subjects: 97 [79 women - 18 men], average age: 49.2 [19 - 70 years old].
[0301] Method: Repeated 48-hour topical application under occlusive dressing on the upper back.
[0302] Evaluation criteria: Assessment of the mean irritation index and delayed contact sensitization by visual evaluation by a dermatologist.
[0303] Results: Under the study conditions, neither primary nor cumulative irritation nor sensitization reactions were observed. Phototoxicity and photosensitization
[0304] Test subject population: healthy, number of test subjects: 27 [15 women - 12 men], average age: 44.3 [22 - 64 years old].
[0305] Method: Single and repeated topical application under occlusive plaster on the upper back, followed by sun exposure (UV-B & A and UV-A alone).
[0306] Evaluation criteria: Assessment of the mean irritation index and delayed contact sensitization by visual evaluation by a dermatologist.
[0307] Results: No phototoxic or photosensitizing reactions were observed under the study conditions. Application test under normal dermatological and ophthalmological supervision
[0308] Test subjects: Test subject population: healthy, with all skin types – 2 test subject groups, Asian and Caucasian. Number of test subjects: 44 (France), mean age 41.7 (25 to 58 years); 43 (China), mean age 43.8 (26 to 54 years). 100% of the test subjects had sensitive skin (inclusion using a specific questionnaire). Phototype: France: I (2%), II (41%), III (57%); China: III (70%), IV (28%), V (2%). The test subjects lived in a polluted or urban environment. The test subjects had uneven skin tone.
[0309] Application modalities: on average twice daily for a period of 4 weeks on the entire face under normal application conditions. Evaluation:
[0310] Tolerability: Assessment of skin and eye tolerance / tolerance in the ocular area by the dermatologist and ophthalmologist* on day 0 and day 28 (*Asian test subject group only).
[0311] Efficacy: Clinical evaluation (scoring) by a dermatologist based on the following criteria: skin radiance, skin homogeneity, skin luminosity, skin texture, skin firmness, skin elasticity, and skin suppleness, on day 0, day 0 Timm, day 14, and day 28. Photographs were taken with a Colorface device on days 0, 0 Timm, 14, and 28. The Sensiscale assessment (Misery questionnaire) was administered on days 0, 14, and 28. The Healthy Aging Index (HA) (total score: "yes" answers to 10 questions) was calculated on day 0 and day 28. Participants completed self-assessment questionnaires on day 0 immediately after the first application, as well as on days 14 and 28. The skin sensitivity questionnaire was completed on day 28 in the presence of the dermatologist. Conclusion:
[0312] Tolerability: (China, n=42 - France, n=44). Ocular tolerability, ocular tolerability, and skin tolerability were rated as good overall after 42 healthy Asian test subjects applied the product twice daily to the entire face for four consecutive weeks under normal usage conditions.
[0313] Overall skin tolerance was rated as good after repeated application under normal conditions, twice daily, for four consecutive weeks, to the entire face, by 44 healthy adult (Caucasian) female participants. The participants reported improvements in skin radiance, homogeneity / evenness, luminosity, texture, firmness, elasticity, and suppleness. The Sensiscale questionnaire on day 28 revealed significant reductions in skin irritation, tightness, general discomfort, and redness (-66% overall in Caucasian and -94% in Asian participants). Health Index
[0314] The health index is a sum of ten specific prompts for assessing skin condition. For each question, 10 is the best rating ("strongly agree") and 0 the worst ("strongly disagree"). The ten questions in the health index were: 1. My skin looks healthy. 2. I have my sensitive skin under control. 3. Both my skin aging and my skin sensitivity are under control. 4. I have a beautiful, natural appearance. 5. My skin makes me look rested. 6. My skin makes me look radiant. 7. My skin makes me look healthy. 8. My skin makes me feel more confident. 9. I feel I can age gracefully. 10. I feel comfortable in my sensitive skin despite harsh conditions (sun, cold, stress, pollution).
[0315] The health index questionnaire was administered to participants on day 0 and day 28 of the clinical trial. Participants reported a significant improvement in their health index on day 28 (Caucasian participants: 75% improvement; Asian participants: 69% improvement compared to day 0). Skin sensitivity test
[0316] In the skin sensitivity test (a self-assessment checked by a dermatologist after 28 days of use), test subjects reported that the product helped reduce skin sensitivity (95% of the Asian test subject group and 71% of the Caucasian test subject group), and that after 28 days of use, the skin felt more comfortable (100% of the Asian test subject group and 88% of the Caucasian test subject group) and looked healthier (95% of the Asian test subject group and 76% of the Caucasian test subject group). Study on non-comedogenicity
[0317] Test subject population: healthy, acne-prone facial skin. The subjects had combination skin with mixed-oily to oily facial skin, and 25% of the subjects had a history of atopy. Number of subjects: 40 women, mean age: 30.3 [19-40 years old].
[0318] Method: Repeated application to the face under normal application conditions, twice daily, for 4 consecutive weeks.
[0319] Evaluation criteria: Clinical assessment of skin compatibility on the face and counting of acne-like lesions by the dermatologist.
[0320] Results: Skin compatibility under the study conditions was rated as very good and non-comedogenic. Moisture - TEWL study
[0321] Test subject population: healthy with dry skin (AC < 50). Number of test subjects: 20 women. Average age: 58 years [30 - 70].
[0322] Method: Single standardized application to the forearms, then assessment of the moisturizing effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) at T1H, T4H, T8H and T24H after application.
[0323] Evaluation criteria: Trans Epidermal Water Loss (Tewameter®) value & Cutaneous Hydration (Corneometer®) arbitrary unit
[0324] Results: A statistically significant effect on the moisture content of the upper layers of the epidermis was observed 1 hour (+39% to +65%), 4 hours (+19% to +41%), 8 hours (+16% to +36%), and 24 hours (+6% to +17%) after a single standardized application, compared to baseline and an untreated area. The results showed that the instant body care formulations moisturize the skin for up to 24 hours. A statistically significant effect on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was observed 1 hour after application compared to baseline and an untreated area (-14%). The results showed that the instant body care formulations protect / respect / maintain the skin barrier. In vivo antioxidant study
[0325] Number of test subjects: 10 women with phototype II to IV. Average age: 40 years [24 - 54].
[0326] Method: Evaluation of the efficacy of an antioxidant by comparing the difference in squalene content between untreated and treated skin after oxidative stress (modeled by 15-minute exposure to cigarette smoke). Squalene levels should be higher in the treated area if the formulation exhibits antioxidant activity. Evaluation criteria: Squalene concentration (µg / mg)
[0327] Results: A statistically significantly higher squalene concentration was observed in the treated / exposed group than in the untreated / exposed group. These results demonstrate the antioxidant effect of the tested product. The protection index was calculated to be between 32.6% and 36.1%. Study on deep cleaning / anti-pollution
[0328] Number of test subjects: 22 women with phototype I to IV. Average age: 34 years [18 - 60].
[0329] Method: Evaluation of the cleaning capacity of the instant body care composition against particles used as a model for soiling, compared to a control area cleaned with water only.
[0330] Evaluation criteria: Quantity of particles removed after cleaning and calculation of cleaning capacity.
[0331] Results: In the area cleaned with the instant body care composition, a statistically significantly higher amount of microparticles was removed than in the area cleaned with water only. This demonstrates the cleaning capacity of the instant composition against microparticles, which were used as a model for soiling.
[0332] A statistically significant cleaning capacity was observed against microparticles, which were used as a model for soiling. Given the cleaning capacity (C% = +44%) of the instant body care composition, it can be assumed that it possesses a deep-cleansing capacity. Make-up remover effect (for cleansing water)
[0333] Number of test subjects: 21 women with phototypes I to IV. Average age: 46 years [20 - 60].
[0334] Method: Evaluation of the effectiveness of the cleansing water in makeup removal.
[0335] Evaluation criteria: The grayscale levels were measured using image analysis software (e.g., Photoshop).
[0336] Results: After applying the foundation (t1), data analysis showed a statistically significant decrease in the "gray value" compared to bare skin (t0) (p<0.0001). After cleansing with the instant body care composition (t2), data analysis showed a statistically significant increase in the "gray value" compared to after applying the foundation (t1) (p=<0.0001).
[0337] After a standard application of the foundation, the product resulted in a purity level of 84%. Study on skin barrier restoration (repair effect)
[0338] Number of test subjects: 25 healthy women. Mean age: 47.7 years [18-60] with the following phototypes and skin origins: I: 5 (20.00%) II: 10 (40.00%) III: 9 (36.00%) IV: 1 (4.00%) V: 0 (0.00%). Skin types on the forearm: Day 0: Body (forearm) 2 mg / cm² 2 per 40 cm 2by trained technicians Day 1 to Day 14: Application at home - once daily, whereby a thin layer of the product is applied to the designated area by the test subject.
[0339] Method: On-site on day 0, then once daily by the test subject themselves under normal usage conditions on the designated area on one forearm. Two areas were defined, one on each forearm: one for control, one for treatment. Changes in skin barrier function were measured by removing adhesive tape at day 0 until a TEWL measurement of more than 20 g / m² was obtained. 2 / h was reached.
[0340] Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured at D0T0 (before removing the tape) (baseline), D0T0' (immediately after removing the tape), day 3, day 7 and day 14.
[0341] Evaluation criteria: Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured using an Evaporimeter®. There was no statistically significant difference in TEWL value between the untreated and treated baseline areas (before tape removal). There was also no statistically significant difference in TEWL value between the untreated and treated baseline areas (after tape removal).
[0342] The evaluation of the treated and untreated areas at all time points after the baseline showed a statistically significant decrease (improvement) in the TEWL value, indicating an improvement in skin barrier restoration in both the treated and untreated areas compared to the measurements after removal of the adhesive tape.
[0343] When comparing the treated and untreated areas, differences in treatment were observed based on the changes immediately after adhesive tape removal. The treated area showed a greater improvement in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) at the time of immediate measurement (15 minutes).
[0344] When comparing the treated and untreated areas, the treated area showed a significantly better recovery effect immediately (15 minutes). On day 3, there was no significant difference between the treated area and the baseline value before tape removal compared to the untreated area.
[0345] Under the study conditions, a single treatment with the test product Composition 5 restored the skin barrier function immediately (15 minutes) after assessment. Under the same study conditions, once-daily treatment with either Composition 5 or Composition 3 showed a skin barrier restoration effect until day 3. Example 4: Detailed results of clinical tests Composition 1
[0346] The clinical results of composition 1 are summarized in Table 2. Table 2: Composition 1 Clinical Results SCIENTIFIC CLAIM JUSTIFICATION RESULTS & COMMENTS Cleaning effect Complete makeup removal, thorough cleansing and moisturizing, gentle cleansing, removal of makeup, oil and dirt, moisturizing the skin during cleansing, leaving the skin feeling clean and detoxified. Deep cleansing measurement + make-up remover test + subjective questionnaire Improved cleansing capacity (C %=+44%) compared to water: 84% of skin was cleansed after standard application of foundation. After 4 weeks > 93% moisture Immediate effect: The skin feels deeply cleansed and moisturized, hydration is increased, the skin remains moisturized during cleansing, the product does not dry out my skin. Corneometry measurement + subjective questionnaire +39.20% after 1 hour (and 6.59% after 24 hours) All items > 95% Sensitive skin It helps reduce skin sensitivity, the skin feels more comfortable, reacts less, and looks healthier. Questionnaire on subjective skin sensitivity + Sensicale After 4 weeks > 95% calming effect - 94% skin barrier : immediate strengthening effect TEWL measurement -14.07% after 1 hour Healthy and youthful skin The skin looks visibly more radiant, supple and firmer, feels healthy, appears even and smooth, looks brighter / shimmering, the pores do not appear clogged, the skin feels cleansed / detoxified. Clinical classification + Subjective questionnaire After 4 weeks in an Asian test group: skin radiance (+17%), radiance (+8%), texture (+4%), firmness (+18%), elasticity (+16%), suppleness (+7%). After 4 weeks > 93% Composition 2
[0347] The skin tolerance of Composition 2 was rated as good overall after it was applied once daily for 4 weeks under normal application conditions to the entire face of 39 adult test subjects aged 31 to 55 years with ‘sensitive’ facial skin of all types and phototypes I to IV who met the pre-defined inclusion criteria.
[0348] Furthermore, the single controlled application of the test product resulted in a statistically significant improvement in wrinkle depth (crow's foot area), radiance and luminosity of the skin immediately after application of the test product compared to the initial assessments based on clinical evaluation by a dermatologist.
[0349] Furthermore, repeated application of the test product, performed once daily by the same test subjects over a period of four weeks, resulted in: a. a statistically significant improvement in all assessed criteria (except skin elasticity and skin suppleness / mobility) after two weeks of use and in all assessed criteria (except skin suppleness / mobility) after four weeks of use compared to the initial assessments based on a clinical evaluation by a dermatologist; b. a statistically significant and positive decrease in the overall score determined by the Sensiscale questionnaire (Sensitive Scale) after four weeks of use compared to the initial assessments, demonstrating a decrease in skin sensitivity based on self-assessment scales completed by the test subjects; a statistically significant and positive increase in the overall score determined by the Healthy Aging Score questionnaire after four weeks of use compared to the initial assessments based on self-assessment scales completed by the test subjects; c. a statistically significant decrease in the parameters Rt (maximum amplitude), Rm (maximum roughness), Rz (average roughness), Rp (smoothness - depth) and surface area (percentage of developed surface area) after 2 and 4 weeks of application, with an additional statistically significant decrease in the parameter volume (V / mm²). 2) after four weeks of application compared to the baseline values, which, based on the Replica analysis (Quantilines™ software), demonstrates a smoothing effect (effect on fine lines).
[0350] Furthermore, the cosmetic properties and effectiveness of the product were rated as good and quite good by the test subjects, with 85% and 67% respectively rating the cosmetic acceptance and effectiveness as "good" to "very good".
[0351] The clinical results of composition 2 are summarized in Table 3. Table 3: Composition 2 Clinical Results SCIENTIFIC CLAIM JUSTIFICATION RESULTS & COMMENTS Healthy and youthful skin Feels revitalized, visibly radiant, gives a healthy glow, feels healthier, looks younger, less tired, improves uneven skin tone and dullness, looks brighter / shimmering, fine lines / wrinkles appear smoother, firmer, smoother, more elastic, filled / plumped Clinical classification + Subjective questionnaire After 4 weeks in an Asian test group: skin radiance (+14%), radiance (+27%), evenness (+13%), texture (+16%), firmness (+28%), elasticity (+22%), suppleness (+25%), wrinkles (-27%), fine lines (-43%). After 4 weeks > 93% moisture : immediate effect and long-term moisturizing effect The skin feels more moisturized. Corneometry measurement + Subjective questionnaire +52% after 1 hour and +9% after 24 hours, +7% after 4 weeks. After 4 weeks = 95% skin barrier : only long-term effect (Kinetic 24 hrs → no change / respect / maintenance of the skin barrier): The skin looks repaired and protected (100%) TEWL measurement + Subjective questionnaire After 4 weeks -11% TEWL Sensitive skin It helps reduce skin sensitivity, the skin feels more comfortable, reacts less, and looks healthier. Questionnaire on subjective skin sensitivity + Sensicale After 4 weeks > 93% calming effect -65% Composition 3
[0352] The clinical results of composition 3 are summarized in Table 4. Table 4: Composition of 3 clinical results. a JUSTIFICATION RESULTS & COMMENTS Healthy and youthful skin Feels revitalized, visibly radiant, gives a healthy glow, looks younger, improves uneven skin and dullness, looks brightened / shimmering, fine lines are smoothed, texture appears smoother, firmer, more supple, more elastic, looks rejuvenated, feels replenished / plumped Clinical classification + Subjective questionnaire After 4 weeks in an Asian test group (see Fig. 3 Skin luminosity (+60%), radiance (+53%), homogeneity (+30%), texture (+33%), firmness (+23%), elasticity (+17%), suppleness (+8%), wrinkles (-27%), fine lines (-33%) After 4 weeks > 91% moisture Immediate effect Corneometry measurement + Subjective questionnaire +52.76% after 1 hour and +10.4% after 24 hours The skin feels intensely and optimally hydrated or rehydrated, feels hydrated. After 4 weeks > 93% skin barrier Immediate strengthening effect. The skin looks repaired and feels protected. TEWL measurement + Subjective questionnaire + Barrier restoration test -12.65% after 1 hour. After 4 weeks > 93%. -8% TEWL after 10 days of use (protective effect of the product, improvement of the skin barrier in stressed skin). Sensitive skin It helps reduce skin sensitivity, the skin feels more comfortable, reacts less, and looks healthier. Questionnaire on subjective skin sensitivity (see Fig. 4 ) + Sensicale After 4 weeks > 96% calming effect -83% Composition 4
[0353] The clinical results of composition 4 are summarized in Table 5. Table 5: Composition of 4 clinical results. SCIENTIFIC CLAIM JUSTIFICATION RESULTS & COMMENTS Healthy and youthful skin Caucasian and Asian test group: >75% of skin looks more even, looks and feels healthier, appears firmer, smoother, feels strengthened / more resilient, feels nourished, the product improves the appearance of skin quality over time, soothes the skin around the eyes, suitable for sensitive skin around the eyes Only in Asian test subjects: Imparts a "healthy glow", looks brighter / illuminated, looks visibly radiant, more youthful, fine lines and wrinkles appear reduced / smoothed, looks plumped, restores skin elasticity, reduces dark circles and signs of fatigue Clinical classification + Subjective questionnaire In the Caucasian test group after 4 weeks: skin luminosity (+16%), radiance (+16%), homogeneity (+10%), texture (+10%), firmness (+5%), dark circles (-9%), wrinkles (-5%), fine lines (-6%) In the Asian test group after 4 weeks: skin radiance (+7%), radiance (+6%), homogeneity (+5%), texture (+10%), dark circles (-9%), wrinkles (-12%), fine lines (-16%) After 4 weeks > 75 % Caucasian and Asian test subject group Instrumental measurement of crow's feet and wrinkles - relief analysis In the Caucasian test group, after 4 weeks: number of wrinkles (-13.1%), total area of wrinkles (-12.8%), total length (-18.6%) Sensitive skin Helps reduce skin sensitivity, skin feels more comfortable, reacts less (60% NS), looks healthier Questionnaire on subjective skin sensitivity + Sensicale After 4 weeks > 72 Calming effect in the Caucasian test group -62% in the Caucasian test group Calming effect -68% in the Asian test group moisture Immediate effect Corneometry measurement + Subjective questionnaire +85% after 1 hour and +21% after 24 hours (see Fig. 5 ) The skin feels hydrated and stays hydrated. After 4 weeks > 93% of Asian and Caucasian test subjects skin barrier : immediate strengthening effect TEWL measurement + barrier restoration test / repair effect -20% after 1 hour does not lead to a significant difference Composition 5
[0354] The clinical results of composition 5 are summarized in Table 6. Table 6: Composition of 5 clinical results. SCIENTIFIC CLAIM JUSTIFICATION RESULTS & COMMENTS Healthy and youthful skin The skin feels firm and smooth, feels nourished / cared for, revitalized, radiates a fresh and healthy glow, maintains healthy-looking skin, looks and feels healthier, makes the skin look younger, improves uneven skin tone and dullness, looks brighter / brighter, softer, firmer, smoother, more elastic, looks rejuvenated, feels replenished / plumped, reduces the visible signs of fatigue, feels as if the skin is strengthened / more resistant to premature aging Clinical classification + Subjective questionnaire After 4 weeks in an Asian test group: skin radiance (+22%), radiance (+24%), texture (+14%), firmness (+16%), elasticity (+15%), suppleness (+16%), wrinkles (-13%), fine lines (-15%) After 4 weeks > 93% moisture Immediate effect Corneometry measurement + Subjective questionnaire +65.21% after 1 hour and 17.17% after 24 hours (see Fig. 2 After 4 weeks in an Asian test group > 98% The skin feels intensely and optimally hydrated or rehydrated (100%), and upon waking, the skin feels completely nourished, hydrated, and plumped (98%). skin barrier : (Kinetic 24 hrs. → no change / respect / preservation of the skin barrier) TEWL measurement + subjective questionnaire + barrier restoration test / repair effect No change in TEWL (kinetic 24 hrs) The skin looks repaired and feels protected. After 4 weeks > 100% in Asian test subject group -7% TEWL after 10 days of use (protective effect of the product, improvement of the skin barrier in stressed skin) Sensitive skin It helps reduce skin sensitivity, the skin feels more comfortable, reacts less, and looks healthier. Questionnaire on subjective skin sensitivity (see Fig. 1 ) + Sensicale After 4 weeks > 97% calming effect - 98%
[0355] Clinical studies showed that the following benefits were generally observed when using the body care compositions described here: Healthy and youthful skin • The skin feels revitalized, nourished / cared for and looks healthier (↑ radiance, texture, firmness, elasticity, suppleness, wrinkles, fine lines) • The skin looks visibly radiant and luminous, brightened / shimmering. • Gives a fresh, “healthy glow”: Restores healthy-looking skin. • The skin looks younger (improvement in texture, firmness, elasticity, suppleness, wrinkles, fine lines) • Improves uneven skin tone and dullness. The skin texture appears smoother. • The skin looks firmer and smoother, feels more elastic, and appears plumped / rejuvenated. Fine lines appear reduced / smoothed. • Improves the appearance of skin quality over time • Helps reduce the visible signs of fatigue (improving texture, firmness, elasticity, suppleness, wrinkles, fine lines) • The skin is strengthened / made more resistant to premature aging. Skin barrier: • The skin looks repaired and protected. More resistant to premature skin aging (100% according to questionnaire). • Protective effect / improvement of the skin barrier after 10 days of using the product on damaged skin. moisture • Instantly moisturizes the skin and keeps it hydrated for 24 hours (see Fig. 2). • The skin feels completely nourished, hydrated, and plumped. Sensitive skin • Suitable for sensitive skin. Soothes and relieves skin irritation. • Helps reduce skin sensitivity, the skin feels more comfortable and reacts less (see Fig. 1). Example 5: Mitochondrial studies
[0356] Environmental factors such as UV light and pollution accelerate skin aging. Phenotypic manifestations of skin aging include wrinkling, dryness, loss of elasticity, suppleness, firmness, radiance, hyperpigmentation, and increased skin sensitivity. At the cellular level, mitochondria, the cellular bioenergy factory, are thought to play a key role in aging. Biochemically, it has been observed that the mitochondria of aged skin exhibit an increase in NADPH oxidase, a decrease in mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP), an imbalance in the fusion-cleavage of fragmented mitochondria, and an increase in mitochondrial endoplasmic membranes (MAMs). The effects of published body care compositions on mitochondrial function and protection were tested as described below.
[0357] Table 7: Below is an example of a body care composition (Composition A) used in the mitochondrial studies. ingredient Crowd Edelweiss extract 1,50 % ALPAFLOR® NECTAPURE PF Buddleja davidii extract + Thymus vulgaris extract (prepared solution) 0,01 % Niacinamide 1,50 % Adenosine 0,04 % Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 2,50 % Rice ferment (from koji) extracts (rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate) 1,00 %
[0358] Composition A was tested in DMSO at dilutions of 1 / 200 (0.5%), 1 / 2,000 (0.05%), and 1 / 20,000 (0.005%) (compared to the concentrations listed in Table 7 above). Ultimately, a 0.005% dilution was selected for all mitochondrial experiments, as this dilution had the least impact on cell viability.
[0359] Cells used in the study: a fibroblast culture from a mature donor (54 years old) that had been validated for susceptibility to environmental pollution and mitochondrial poisoning.
[0360] Pollutant: standardized urban particles of metals, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), nitro-PAHs, PCBs, chlorinated pesticides, etc. with micrometric diameter.
[0361] The following parameters were measured: NADPH oxidase activity, mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP), fusion-cleavage balance, mitochondrial membranes (MAMs), and cell viability. The results of these tests were as follows. NADPH oxidase activity
[0362] NADPH oxidase is an enzyme that catalyzes the production of superoxide anions. It is inactive in resting cells and is activated under stress. NADPH oxidase activity generates reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are involved in various physiological mechanisms. Environmental pollution strongly stimulates NADPH oxidase, leading to the production of large amounts of ROS. This can result in skin inflammation, particularly the release of the sensitive skin mediator PGE-2. By deactivating the pollutant and / or regulating NADPH oxidase, cells are protected from oxidative damage.
[0363] Method: Cells are incubated for 30 minutes with the test elements (either pollutant or composition A). NADPH oxidase activity is immediately determined by chemiluminescence. Conditions: Untreated and not exposed to contamination, untreated and exposed to contamination, and treated with a personal care composition and exposed to contamination.
[0364] Results: NADPH oxidase activity caused by environmental pollution (p=0.0041) ( Fig. 6, PE-NTC), while composition A significantly inhibited (p=0.0053) pollution-induced NADPH oxidase activity ( Fig. 6, PE + TREAT). These results demonstrated the antioxidant and pollutant-protective effects of composition A. Mitochondrial membrane potential
[0365] The mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP) is the primary driving force for ATP synthesis (the cellular fuel). A decrease in MMP (depolarization) can indicate mitochondrial damage from oxidative stress and is observed during the aging process. Depolarization caused by environmental pollution leads to reduced ATP production and ultimately to premature aging.
[0366] Method: The cells are pre-incubated with a probe. They are then incubated for 4 hours with the test elements (either pollutant or active substances). The MMP is immediately recorded by chemiluminescence. Conditions: Untreated and not exposed to contamination, Untreated and exposed to contamination, and Treated with composition A and exposed to contamination.
[0367] Results: The mitochondrial depolarization caused by environmental pollution (-34%, p=0.0151) and the personal care product significantly mitigated the effects of environmental pollution (+20%, p=0.0145) ( Fig. 7) After treatment with the body care product, the mitochondrial membrane potential returns to a level that does not differ significantly from the baseline state. Composition A maintains the cell's energy production in the face of pollution, thus supporting normal mitochondrial function. Balance between fission and fusion
[0368] The mitochondrial network is a balance between elongated and fragmented mitochondria. This balance is dynamic, ensuring healthy mitochondrial activity. Stress, as well as environmental pollution, can damage some mitochondria. It is crucial for cells to remove damaged mitochondria and regenerate new ones in a balanced ratio. An imbalance in the mitochondrial network leads to various illnesses and diseases. A hallmark of aging is a shift toward fragmented mitochondria.
[0369] Methods: The cells are pre-incubated with a probe. Subsequently, the cells are incubated overnight with the test elements (either pollutant or active ingredient). The parameters of mitochondrial fusion ( Fig.8A) are measured immediately using Mitosteam technology. Conditions: Untreated and not exposed to contamination, Untreated and exposed to contamination, and Treated with composition A and exposed to contamination.
[0370] Results: Environmental pollution blocks mitochondrial fusion. Hyperfusion disappeared after exposure to pollutants (p<0.0001) ( Fig. 8B). Fusion decreased by 96% (p<0.0001) and mitochondrial length by 86% (p<0.0001) ( Fig. 8B). Treatment with composition A reversed the pollution-induced decrease in mitochondrial length and complexity: Hyperfusion was restored to normal levels. Fusion increased by 2156% (p<0.0001) and mitochondrial length by 475% (p<0.0001) ( Fig. 8B).
[0371] Pollution leads to a shift towards the splitting of the mitochondrial network: an increase of +17% in hyperfission (p=0.06), an increase of 31% in fission (p<0.0001) and an increase of 20% in short mitochondria (p<0.0001) was observed ( Fig. 8C). After treatment with composition A, the pollution-induced increase in mitochondrial fission was restored to normal. A 22% decrease in hyperfission (p<0.0001), a 21% decrease in fission (p<0.0001), and a 15% increase in short mitochondria (p<0.0001) were observed ( Fig. 8C). Mitochondrial network
[0372] Next, composition A was tested on a mitochondrial cell network. The pollution led to a breakdown of the mitochondrial network, whereas the treatment with composition A preserved the complexity and branching of the mitochondrial network after the pollution exposure.
[0373] Composition A preserves the complexity and branching of the mitochondrial population, prevents damage to the mitochondrial network caused by environmental pollution, and protects the skin from premature aging. Mitochondria-associated endoplasmic reticulum membranes (MAMs)
[0374] Organelles are located in close proximity within the cell. Mitochondrial membranes (MAMs) are highly specialized regions situated between the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) and the mitochondria. Urban pollution leads to an increase in MAMs by damaging the endoplasmic reticulum. MAMs are the sites where inflammasomes are formed. Inflammasome formation is amplified by damaged mitochondria and contributes to aging through the process of "inflammaging."
[0375] Methods: The cells are pre-incubated with a probe. Subsequently, the cells are incubated overnight with the test elements (either pollutant or composition A). In the ligation test, the distance between GRP75 (mitochondrial membrane) and SERCA2 (endoplasmic reticulum) was measured – a distance <40 nm was considered a positive result. Conditions: Untreated and not exposed to any pollution, untreated and exposed to pollution, and treated with composition A and exposed to pollution.
[0376] Results: The body care composition significantly reduced the number of MAMs in cells damaged by environmental pollution (p<0.0001) by 66% ( Fig. 10). Cell viability
[0377] The effect of composition A was tested to assess cell viability.
[0378] Methods: Cells were incubated overnight with the test elements (either pollutant or active ingredient). Cell count was determined using a microscopic field. Conditions: Untreated and not exposed to contamination, untreated and exposed to contamination, and treated with composition A and exposed to contamination.
[0379] Results: Pollution had no effect on the number of cells (p=0.30). Despite the pollution, composition A increased the cell count by 118% (p<0.0001) ( Fig. 11).
[0380] In summary, composition A counteracts several signs of mitochondrial defects caused by environmental pollution, which are also observed during the aging process. Example 6: Mitochondrial studies on body care composition with soy-derived glycopeptides
[0381] Biochemically, it was observed that the mitochondria of aged skin exhibit an increase in NADPH oxidase enzyme activity, a decrease in mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP), an imbalance in the fusion-cleavage of fragmented mitochondria, and an increase in mitochondrial endoplasmic membranes (MAMs). The effect of the published skincare compositions (see Table 8) on mitochondrial function and protection was tested as described below. Table 8: Example of a body care composition (composition B) for mitochondrial tests. ingredient Crowd Edelweiss extract (prepared solution) 3,0 % Concentrate of hydrolyzed soy flour (in water, caprylyl glycol and 1,2-hexanediol) (prepared solution) 2,0 % Niacinamide 1,50 % Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 2,50 % Rice ferment (from koji) extracts (rice (Oryza sativa) turbidity concentrate) (prepared solution) 1,00 %
[0382] For comparison with the personal care composition, niacinamide was tested in low concentrations (“Niacinamide (low)”) and high concentrations (“Niacinamide (high)”) in DMSO. (The high niacinamide concentration was 6.67 times that of the low niacinamide concentration.) Composition B was diluted until its niacinamide concentration matched that of the low niacinamide concentration. The cells used in the study were primary human fibroblasts obtained from a healthy 55-year-old female donor. As in Example 5, the pollutant consisted of standardized urban particles of metals, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), nitro-PAHs, PCBs, chlorinated pesticides, etc., with micrometric diameters.
[0383] NADPH oxidase activity and mitochondrial-associated membranes (MAMs) were experimentally determined and quantified in the same manner as in Example 5. The results of these tests were as follows. NADPH oxidase activity
[0384] Results: The in Fig. The data presented in the 12 data show a clear antioxidant effect for niacinamide (low), niacinamide (high), and composition B (dilute), with niacinamide (low) restoring NADPH activity to a level similar to that observed in NE-NTC. Both niacinamide (high) and composition B (dilute) reduce NADPH oxidase activity to a level below that observed in NE-NTC. Mitochondria-associated endoplasmic reticulum membranes (MAMs)
[0385] Results: As in Fig.As shown in Figure 13, pollution increased MAM density in exposed cells, which was associated with increased endoplasmic reticulum stress and increased mitochondrial calcium storage. This effect was reduced to a normal level, corresponding to the level observed in NE-NTC, with Composition B (diluted). The personal care composition (Composition B) significantly reduced the number of MAMs in pollution-damaged cells by approximately 60% (p<0.0001).
[0386] In summary, Composition B efficiently reduces NADPH oxidase activity and the occurrence of MAMs, which are responsible for the increase in mitochondrial calcium influx. Thus, Composition B counteracts several signs of pollution-induced mitochondrial defects, which are also observed during the aging process. QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION
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[0248]
Claims
[1] A personal care composition comprising, by weight of the total composition: (a) 0.1% - 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% - 10% Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 10% rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate, (d) 0.1% - 10% panthenol, and (e) 0.001% - 5% glycopeptides derived from soy. [2] The personal care composition of claim 1, wherein the personal care composition comprises, by weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% - 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, 0.001% - 2% rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate, 0.1% - 3% panthenol and 0.002% - 4% soy-derived glycopeptides. [3] The personal care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the personal care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives. [4] The personal care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a sunscreen, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH balancer and a surfactant. [5] The personal care composition according to claim 4, wherein the moisturizing agent comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol and butylene glycol. [6] The personal care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, based on the weight of the total composition, further comprising: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract. [7] The personal care composition of claim 5, wherein the sunscreen comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. [8] The personal care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the personal care composition is a cream, a lotion, a gel, a mask, a serum or a spray. [9] A method of treating sensitive skin in a subject, comprising administering to the subject a personal care composition comprising: niacinamide, edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, rice (Oryza sativa) concentrate, panthenol, and soy-derived glycopeptides. [10] The method of claim 9, wherein the sensitive skin exhibits at least one unpleasant sensation prior to treatment, wherein the at least one unpleasant sensation is selected from the group consisting of tingling, heat, burning, itching, tightness, and redness. [11] The method of claim 10, wherein application of the personal care composition results in a reduction of wrinkles or a delay in the onset of wrinkles. [12] The method according to any one of claims 9 to 11, wherein the personal care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives. [13] The method according to any one of claims 9 to 12, wherein the personal care composition comprises, by weight of the total composition: (a) 0.1% to 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% to 10% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 10% rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate, (d) 0.1% - 10% panthenol, and (e) 0.001% - 5% glycopeptides derived from soy. [14] The method according to any one of claims 9 to 13, wherein the personal care composition comprises, by weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% to 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), 0.001% to 2% rice lees concentrate (Oryza sativa), 0.1% to 3% panthenol and 0.002% to 4% soy-derived glycopeptides. [15] The method according to any one of claims 9 to 14, wherein the personal care composition comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a sunscreen, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH balancer and a surfactant. [16] The method of claim 15, wherein the moisturizing agent comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol and butylene glycol. [17] The method according to any one of claims 9 to 16, based on the weight of the total composition, further comprising: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract. [18] The method of claim 15, wherein the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. [19] The method according to any one of claims 9 to 18, wherein the personal care composition is a cream, a lotion, a gel, a mask, a serum or a spray. [20] The method of any one of claims 9-19, wherein the personal care composition is administered topically. [21] The method of any one of claims 9-20, wherein the personal care composition is administered every hour, every 2 hours, every 3 hours, every 6 hours or every 12 hours. [22] The method of any one of claims 9-21, wherein the personal care composition comprises 2% soy-derived glycopeptides. [23] The method of any one of claims 9-22, wherein the test subject was exposed to contamination. [24] A method for reducing wrinkle formation in a subject having sensitive skin, comprising administering to the subject a personal care composition comprising: niacinamide, edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, rice (Oryza sativa) concentrate, panthenol, and soy-derived glycopeptides. [25] The method of claim 24, wherein the personal care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives. [26] The method according to any one of claims 24 to 25, wherein the personal care composition comprises, by weight of the total composition: (a) 0.1% to 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% to 10% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 10% rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate, (d) 0.1% - 10% panthenol, and (e) 0.001% - 5% glycopeptides derived from soy. [27] The method according to any one of claims 24 to 26, wherein the personal care composition comprises, by weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% to 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), 0.001% to 2% rice lees concentrate (Oryza sativa), 0.1% to 3% panthenol and 0.002% to 4% soy-derived glycopeptides. [28] The method according to any one of claims 24 to 27, wherein the personal care composition comprises at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a sunscreen, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH balancer and a surfactant. [29] The method of claim 28, wherein the moisturizing agent comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol and butylene glycol. [30] The method according to any one of claims 24 to 29, wherein the personal care composition comprises, by weight of the total composition, from 0.01% to 2% adenosine, from 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and from 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract. [31] The method of claim 29, wherein the light-protective filter comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. [32] The method according to any one of claims 24 to 31, wherein the personal care composition is a cream, a lotion, a gel, a mask, a serum or a spray. [33] The method of any one of claims 24-32, wherein the personal care composition is administered topically. [34] The method of any one of claims 24-33, wherein the personal care composition is administered every hour, every 2 hours, every 3 hours, every 6 hours or every 12 hours. [35] The method of any one of claims 24-34, wherein the personal care composition comprises 2% soy-derived glycopeptides. [36] The method of any one of claims 24-35, wherein the test subject was exposed to contamination. [37] A personal care composition comprising, by weight of the total composition: (a) 0.1% to 10% niacinamide, (b) 0.0001% to 10% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, (c) 0.001% - 10% rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate, and (d) 0.1% - 10% panthenol. [38] The personal care composition of claim 37, further comprising: (e) 0.001% to 5% glycopeptides from soy. [39] The personal care composition according to any one of claims 37 to 38, wherein the personal care composition comprises, by weight of the total composition: 0.1% to 4% niacinamide, 0.001% to 4% edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum), 0.001% to 2% rice lees concentrate (Oryza sativa), 0.1% to 3% panthenol and 0.002% to 4% soy-derived glycopeptides. [40] The personal care composition according to any one of claims 37 to 39, wherein the personal care composition does not contain retinoids or retinoid derivatives. [41] The personal care composition according to any one of claims 37 to 40, further comprising at least one of the following: water, adenosine, a humectant, a sunscreen, an antioxidant, a preservative, a gelling agent, a solvent, a pH balancer and a surfactant. [42] The personal care composition of claim 41, wherein the moisturizing agent comprises at least one of Buddleja davidii extract, Thymus vulgaris extract, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol and butylene glycol. [43] The personal care composition according to any one of claims 37 to 42, based on the weight of the total composition, further comprising: 0.01% to 2% adenosine, 0.0001% to 3% Buddleja davidii extract and 0.0001% to 3% Thymus vulgaris extract. [44] The personal care composition of claim 42, wherein the sunscreen comprises at least one of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. [45] The personal care composition according to any one of claims 37 to 44, wherein the personal care composition is a cream, a lotion, a gel, a mask, a serum or a spray. [46] A method for reducing pollution-induced NADPH oxidase in mitochondria in human skin, the method comprising: applying to human skin a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate and panthenol. [47] A method for reducing pollution-induced mitochondrial fragmentation in human skin, the method comprising: applying to human skin a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate and panthenol. [48] A method for reducing pollution-induced production of MAMs in mitochondria in human skin, the method comprising: applying to human skin a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate and panthenol. [49] A method for alleviating mitochondrial membrane depolarization caused by environmental pollution, the method comprising: applying to human skin a composition comprising niacinamide, Leontopodium alpinum extract, rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate, and panthenol. [50] A method for inducing procollagen and elastin protein expression in skin, the method comprising: topically applying to the skin a composition comprising: niacinamide, edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate and panthenol, wherein the composition does not contain retinol. [51] A method for reducing the expression of IL-8 and PGE-2 in the skin, the method comprising: topically applying to the skin a composition comprising: niacinamide, edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) extract, rice (Oryza sativa) lees concentrate and panthenol, the composition not containing retinol.
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