Optimized fabric

Abstract

Fabric comprising a multitude of weft threads and a multitude of warp threads, wherein the multitude of weft threads comprises 9 threads per cm to 22 threads per cm and the fabric has a dyeing with premetallized dyes.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to an optimized fabric.

[0002] The present invention relates in particular to a fabric consisting predominantly of fine fibers. In particular, the present invention further relates to an optimized fabric that proves to be particularly durable and resistant.

[0003] The properties of durability and resistance refer to both mechanical stresses and wear and tear caused by fabric abrasion and fading.

[0004] The fabric relating to the invention is designed, for example, for the automotive sector as well as the clothing and furnishing sectors, in which the fabrics are exposed to possible mechanical stresses, such as tensile forces, tearing and rubbing, or possible impairments as a result of washing or exposure to sunlight.

[0005] Such fabrics, known from the prior art and used in these sectors, generally enable the production of garments or furnishings that guarantee good performance from a technical point of view, but are certainly not without disadvantages.

[0006] One initial disadvantage of known fabrics is that they do not always guarantee sufficient resistance to mechanical stress over long periods of time.

[0007] Another disadvantage of the known fabrics is that they are often subject to impairment due to frequent care measures and / or sun exposure.

[0008] This can sometimes lead to a change in the original color of the product.

[0009] The object of the present invention is therefore to provide an optimized fabric that is able to overcome the aforementioned disadvantages of the prior art.

[0010] A further object of the present invention is to provide an optimized fabric that can guarantee optimal technical and mechanical properties over long periods of use. In particular, it is an object of the present invention to provide a durable and highly resistant fabric that is resistant to both mechanical stresses and visual impairment.

[0011] The above-mentioned tasks are essentially accomplished by an optimized fabric that includes the technical features set out in one or more of the attached patent claims.

[0012] Further features and advantages of the present invention as well as alternative embodiments are listed in the exemplary and therefore non-limiting description of a preferred but not exclusive embodiment of the optimized fabric in question.

[0013] The fabric relating to the invention comprises in its structure a multitude of weft threads and a multitude of warp threads.

[0014] The term "weft" refers to the entirety of threads that form the transverse part of the fabric.

[0015] The warp of a fabric refers to all the threads that form the longitudinal direction of the fabric. In particular, the weft threads run perpendicular to the warp threads, so that they interlock and form the fabric.

[0016] The number of weft threads ranges from 9 threads per cm to 22 threads per cm.

[0017] Such a quantity of weft threads per cm makes it possible to optimize the strength of the fabric (and thus of the end product obtained using the fabric according to the invention). Advantageously, the aforementioned quantities of weft and warp threads have a count between 3000 and 15000 Nm.

[0018] The term "thread" refers to the number or numerical value that indicates the ratio of a thread's length to its weight.

[0019] In other words, the title of a thread expresses its subtlety.

[0020] Advantageously, the aforementioned weft and warp threads have between 300 and 500 twists per meter. Twist refers to the spiral twisting of the fibers that make up a thread.

[0021] The technical and mechanical properties of the fabric according to the invention are also achieved through its manufacturing process. Advantageously, the thread can further be subjected to an additional twisting process in which the thread is produced by twisting together (i.e., by joining a plurality of individual threads) two or more threads in their longitudinal direction. According to this embodiment, in which the aforementioned weft and warp threads are subjected to twisting, i.e., are twisted from two strands, they additionally have between 120 twists per meter and 320 twists per meter.

[0022] Spinning and any subsequent twisting make it possible to obtain a durable and well-structured thread.

[0023] The weaving of the warp and weft threads is also provided for the production of the fabric according to the invention.

[0024] This weaving process is carried out in such a way that the fabric – as described in technical jargon – is as “densely set” as possible.

[0025] This property is essentially achieved by using a high number of weft threads per centimeter.

[0026] This allows for optimization of the fabric's resistance to tensile forces and tearing.

[0027] This property is essentially achieved by using a high number of weft threads per centimeter.

[0028] This allows for optimization of the fabric's resistance to tensile forces and tearing.

[0029] This type of fabric manufacturing makes it possible to completely eliminate the need for plasticizers during the finishing process (which are used to give the fabric a pleasant feel).

[0030] The presence of such plasticizers would increase the possibility of thread slippage and thus make the fabric less resistant.

[0031] Therefore, such a finishing process contributes to the optimization of the technical and mechanical properties of the fabric.

[0032] The fabric relating to the invention was specifically subjected to numerous tests, which were carried out both on the new fabric and on the fabric subjected to an aging process, in order to ensure its technical and mechanical properties.

[0033] In particular, with regard to the values ​​determined by means of “Tensile Strength”, i.e. a test to measure tensile strength, it is stated that a strip of fabric measuring 5 cm × 20 cm is able to withstand a tensile force of at least 700N in the warp direction and at least 400N in the weft direction.

[0034] The “Elmendorf Tear Strength” test, which is a test to determine the tear strength of the fabric (after a cut), showed a high tear propagation strength.

[0035] This property becomes fundamentally important if the garment (made using the fabric relating to the invention) gets caught, for example, in a bush or similar during a walk.

[0036] The "Pilling Martindale" test, i.e., a test to determine the tendency to form superficial fiber nodules, confirmed an optimized resistance of this fabric to the formation of said superficial fiber nodules. The "Abrasion Resistance" test ensured an optimized abrasion resistance of the fabric according to the invention.

[0037] The optimized fabric according to the invention also ensures a high resistance to slippage at the seams.

[0038] Furthermore, the fabric ensures optimal resistance to thread pull-out, even when it comes into contact with sharp objects. The fabric according to the invention also guarantees a high degree of breathability and adequate fire resistance; for example, the fabric guarantees that the garment will not be damaged when it comes into contact with a burning cigarette or a glowing object.

[0039] Advantageously, the optimized fabric according to the invention comprises at least 55% by weight of animal fibers.

[0040] Advantageously, the animal fibers include wool.

[0041] According to one embodiment, the fabric of the invention comprises approximately 70 wt.% animal fibers and approximately 30 wt.% synthetic fibers.

[0042] Advantageously, these fibers are primary fibers.

[0043] Animal primary fiber refers to any type of fiber obtained from the shearing of animals.

[0044] Nylon has an intrinsic property of high resistance to wear and tensile stress as well as to chemicals.

[0045] Therefore, the presence of nylon contributes to the optimization of the mechanical and technical properties of the fabric relating to the invention.

[0046] According to a further embodiment, the fabric of the invention comprises 100 wt.% of animal fibers.

[0047] This design makes it possible to obtain a sophisticated fabric that is high-quality in terms of appearance and feel, while simultaneously ensuring optimized mechanical properties.

[0048] The fabric according to the invention is dyed by dyeing with premetallized dyes.

[0049] Such premetallized dyes are advantageously applied by means of flake dyeing, i.e., the dyeing process is carried out on the fibers from which first the thread and then the fabric is produced.

[0050] Alternatively, the pre-metallized dyes are applied by means of yarn dyeing.

[0051] Alternatively, the premetallized dyes are applied by piece dyeing.

[0052] Premetallized dyes are understood to be dyes with high resistance.

[0053] In particular, premetallized dyes are a class of acid dyes used for dyeing protein fibers such as wool and silk, as well as polyamide fibers such as nylon.

[0054] Their characteristic feature is that they contain a metal (usually chromium or cobalt) that is bonded to the dye molecule.

[0055] Such pre-metallized dyes make it possible to maintain the desired fabric color in the long term and to prevent damage to the fabric, e.g., from washing or sunlight. Advantageously, these pre-metallized dyes include 1:1 pre-metallized dyes. Specifically, 1:1 pre-metallized dyes are understood to be dyes with a 1:1 ratio between the metal atom and the dye molecule.

[0056] This type of dye offers optimal fastness and resistance, especially to light exposure and washing.

[0057] Some non-restrictive examples of premetallized 1:1 dyes used for dyeing wool or nylon are: Acid Yellow 99, Acid Orange 142, Acid Red 183, Acid Brown 97, Acid Violet 90, Acid Blue 193 or Acid Black 52.

[0058] The nomenclature of the examples given defines the type of dye used (e.g., "Acid"), the color (e.g., "Yellow"), and the code assigned in the Colour Index (e.g., "99").

[0059] The term Colour Index refers to a unique code assigned to each dye for standardized identification and to distinguish it from other dyes within the same dye family. Alternatively, premetallized dyes include premetallized 1:2 dyes.

[0060] Premetallized 1:2 dyes are a type of premetallized dye that contains two dye molecules per metal atom.

[0061] This type of dye allows for further optimization of fastness and resistance to light exposure and washing.

[0062] Some non-restrictive examples of premetallized 1:2 dyes are: Acid Yellow 129, Acid Orange 67, Acid Red 95, Acid Brown 282, Acid Violet 48, Acid Blue 158 and Acid Black 107.

[0063] In practice, the aforementioned premetallized dyes are applied using an optimized dyeing process.

[0064] In particular, the application of the aforementioned premetallized dyes involves dyeing times at boiling temperature that vary between 60 and 75 minutes.

[0065] Furthermore, the temperature rise and fall gradient during dyeing is approximately 0.5 °C per minute.

[0066] In addition, the dye bath is depleted with approximately 2 wt% formic acid.

[0067] These dyeing properties entail an increase in dyeing times compared to the state of the art.

[0068] This allows for optimized penetration of the dye.

[0069] This ensures an optimized degree of uniformity and optimized fixation of the dye on the fibers.

[0070] In practice, the fiber is essentially acidified more to improve its bonding to the dye.

[0071] The fabric according to the invention eliminates the disadvantages of the prior art and achieves significant advantages.

[0072] A first advantage of the fabric relating to the invention is to provide a product that is able to offer optimized resistance to impairment due to washing and sun exposure.

[0073] In fact, the dyeing of the fabric relating to the invention enables a stable and permanent fixation of the dye.

[0074] Another advantage of the fabric according to the invention is that it provides a product that is able to offer optimal mechanical and technical properties, and in particular a fabric that is both durable and resistant to possible stresses.

[0075] A further advantage of the fabric according to the invention is that it provides a cost-effective product. The fabric comprises a plurality of weft threads and a plurality of warp threads, and is dyed by dyeing with dyes with high colorfastness.