THREE-PHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Description

SUBJECT OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a three-phase cosmetic composition comprising a lower aqueous phase, an intermediate non-siliconized oily phase, and an upper non-siliconized oily phase. It also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for the care, cleansing, and / or perfuming of skin and / or hair and / or for removing makeup, particularly from the face, as well as a cosmetic process using this composition. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cosmetic compositions consisting of three visually distinct phases are available on the market. These triphasic compositions differ from triple emulsions, which, at rest, consist of a dispersion—generally invisible to the naked eye—of oil-in-water emulsion droplets dispersed in a continuous oily phase or of water-in-oil emulsion droplets in a continuous aqueous phase. In triphasic compositions, the lowest phase at rest is generally the aqueous phase, which is the densest, while at least one of the middle and upper phases is an oily phase. Each of these phases is separated from the adjacent phase by a single continuous interface, which is usually horizontal. This interface can be highlighted by using separate colorants in each phase. Triphasic compositions require shaking before use to form an emulsion immediately.This composition must be sufficiently stable to allow simultaneous application of the three phases, but such that, at rest, the three phases quickly separate to return to their initial state. An example of a three-phase composition containing a lower aqueous phase, an intermediate aqueous phase, and an upper oily phase is described in document WO 2019 / 002579. Other three-phase cosmetic composition systems are also known (see, in particular, patent applications FR 2 655 265 A1, WO 2014 / 018543 A1, GB 2 259 015 A, and US 2015 / 258006 A1).

[0003] Many triphasic compositions are commercially available and are used, in particular, as skin makeup removers or as hair care and / or protection mists. However, most contain a significant proportion of silicone oil (dimethicone) or paraffin (mineral oil). Yet, consumers are increasingly seeking cosmetic products containing naturally derived ingredients and are thus turning away from products containing synthetic or petrochemical-derived oils, such as silicones and mineral oils.

[0004] Several formulas have been proposed that do not contain the aforementioned ingredients (notably René Furterer's Triphasic Anti-Hair Loss Regenerating Serum). However, these formulas contain a significant proportion of alcohol, making them unsuitable for removing eye makeup or for complete facial makeup removal.

[0005] Another solution proposed by SEPPIC involves using a combination of castor oil and Emogreen®< L15, a mixture of linear C15-C19 alkanes of plant origin. This combination allows for the formulation of a three-phase composition consisting of a lower aqueous phase, a polar oily intermediate phase based on castor oil, and a non-polar oily upper phase, namely Emogreen®< L15. Achieving a clean interface between the aqueous and intermediate oily phases requires the addition of a specific alkylpolyglycoside-based surfactant to the latter and a salt to the former, which limits the formulator's flexibility. Crucially, the recommended proportions for obtaining a composition with a satisfactory appearance correspond to an oily / aqueous phase ratio of 70 / 30.The resulting composition therefore has an oily feel suitable for the recommended hair application but not for use as a makeup remover. The Applicant further demonstrated that by increasing the proportion of aqueous phase, the resulting interfaces were not sharp when the composition was allowed to stand after shaking.

[0006] To the Applicant's knowledge, no three-phase composition devoid of silicone oil, containing at least 50% by weight of aqueous phase and two distinct oily phases, and exhibiting clear interfaces at rest, has ever been proposed.

[0007] After much research, the Applicant was able to reconcile all these requirements through a judicious choice of the components of the three phases. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The invention thus relates to a three-phase cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a lower aqueous phase representing at least 50% of the weight of the composition and containing from 2 to 15% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition, (b) an intermediate non-siliconized oily phase containing castor oil and optionally at least one other vegetable oil, and (c) an upper non-siliconized oily phase containing at least one linear or branched C10-C20 alkane, it being understood that, when the intermediate oily phase contains at least one other vegetable oil, the weight ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil is at least 65:35

[0009] It also aims at the cosmetic use of this composition for the care, cleansing and / or perfumement of the skin and / or hair and / or the removal of makeup from the skin, particularly the face.

[0010] It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care, cleansing and / or perfuming of the skin and / or hair and / or for removing makeup from the skin, particularly the face, including the topical application of this composition to the skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0011] As a preliminary point, it should be noted that the expression "between" used throughout this description includes the values ​​corresponding to the lower and upper bounds of the interval concerned.

[0012] The composition according to the invention comprises three distinct phases, namely a lower aqueous phase, an intermediate non-siliconized oily phase and an upper non-siliconized oily phase, the constituents of which will now be detailed. Aqueous lower phase

[0013] The aqueous lower phase of the composition according to the invention represents at least 50% of the total weight of the composition, for example, from 50 to 90%, preferably from 60 to 85%, and more preferably from 70 to 80%, of the total weight of the composition. It also contains from 48 to 73% by weight of water, preferably from 50 to 65% by weight of water, and more preferably from 50 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the aqueous lower phase comprises from 2 to 15% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the glycerin represents from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It has been observed that glycerin, used in these proportions, improves the clarity of the interface between the aqueous lower phase and the oily intermediate phase.

[0014] In addition to the aforementioned constituents, the lower aqueous phase may include one or more additional constituents selected from: at least one surfactant, which may be selected from non-ionic surfactants, advantageously from alkyl polyglucosides, and / or from amphoteric surfactants, such as cocamidopropyl betaine; at least one colorant; at least one active ingredient, such as an aqueous plant extract; and mixtures thereof.

[0015] The lower aqueous phase generally contains at least one pH adjuster suitable for bringing the pH of the composition into the range of 5 to 6.0. It may also contain a small amount of alcohol, for example 1 to 10% by weight and preferably up to 5% by weight of ethanol, and / or a salt, for example 0.1 to 5% by weight of NaCl and / or sodium bicarbonate and preferably up to 2% by weight of NaCl and / or sodium bicarbonate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Furthermore, according to one embodiment of the invention, the lower aqueous phase contains at least one colorant suitable for giving it a color distinct from the intermediate oily phase. non-silicone oily intermediate phase

[0017] The intermediate oily phase of the composition according to the invention contains castor oil, in an amount that may, for example, represent 5 to 25% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Castor oil is essentially composed of a ricinoleic acid triglyceride, that is to say, a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the intermediate oily phase further contains at least one other vegetable oil, in a weight ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil of at least 65:35. It has been observed that a vegetable oil, used in the aforementioned proportions, improves the feel of the composition without compromising the achievement of a triphasic composition. The weight ratio of castor oil to vegetable oil is advantageously at least 70:30, preferably between 70:30 and 90:10.

[0019] In the context of this description, "oil" means a liquid compound at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5< Pa) which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.

[0020] Vegetable oils can be obtained by mechanically pressing, often cold-pressing, fruits, nuts, or seeds. They are composed of approximately 95% triglycerides, the remainder being mono- and diglycerides and unsaponifiable compounds such as alcohols, carotenoids, chlorophyll, hydrocarbons, sterols, and tocopherols. Triglycerides themselves can be simple (triesters of glycerol and three molecules of the same fatty acid) or mixed (triesters of glycerol and two or three different fatty acids), with mixed esters being the most common. The fatty acids in vegetable oils are saturated and / or unsaturated, and their chain length ranges from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, primarily between 12 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0021] Examples of usable vegetable oils can be chosen from wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip, Echium, camelina, camellia and their mixtures.

[0022] According to one embodiment of the invention, the intermediate oily phase further contains at least one colorant suitable for giving it a color distinct from the lower aqueous phase and the upper oily phase.

[0023] It may also contain at least one additional constituent chosen from: active ingredients and / or lipid-soluble or lipid-dispersible UV filters in polar oily media, antioxidants, preservatives, oil phase structuring agents, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] In contrast, the intermediate oily phase of the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds, such as silicone oil, elastomer, gum, or resin. In particular, it is free of oils based on linear, branched, or cyclic organopolysiloxanes. More specifically, it is preferred that the intermediate oily phase comprise no oil other than castor oil and possibly at least one other vegetable oil.

[0025] The intermediate phase can represent 8 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight, better, 12 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. non-silicone oily top layer

[0026] The upper oily phase of the composition according to the invention contains at least one linear or branched C10-C20 alkane. This compound advantageously represents 5 to 25% by weight, preferably 8 to 20% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] Examples of linear or branched C10-C20 alkanes may be chosen from decane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, eicosane and mixtures thereof.

[0028] Some of these alkanes are volatile, notably decane, undecane, and isododecane, while others are non-volatile, notably tetradecane and pentadecane. A "volatile alkane" is defined as one having a vapor pressure in the range of 0.001 to 300 mm Hg, and preferably 0.01 to 10 mm Hg, at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, these alkanes also have a flash point (measured according to ASTM D93) below 100°C, preferably between 50 and 95°C, for example, between 70 and 90°C, or even between 80 and 90°C, and / or a kinematic viscosity of less than 5 cSt, or even between 1 and 3 cSt, at 40°C.Examples of linear alkanes include the linear C10 and C13 alkanes as described in particular in application EP 1798213 and marketed by BASF under the trade name Cetiol®< Ultimate; the mixture of linear C12 and C14 alkanes marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the trade name Vegelight®<; the mixture of linear C15-C19 alkanes marketed by SEPPIC under the trade name Emogreen®< L15; the linear alkanes available from SASOL under the trade name Parafol®<; and the mixture of linear C13-C15 alkanes available from AMYRIS under the trade name Neossance Hemisqualane®<.

[0029] According to the invention, linear alkanes in the C10-C20 range are preferred to be used, and more preferably a mixture of linear alkanes.

[0030] In addition to the aforementioned oil, which is by nature nonpolar, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one other nonpolar or slightly polar oil. For the purposes of this description, "nonpolar or slightly polar oil" means an oil having a polarity index, that is, an interfacial tension between this oil and water, greater than 20 mN / m.

[0031] Examples of nonpolar or slightly polar oils include dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate; hydrocarbons such as squalane and squalene; polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutene and polydecene; mineral oils; C12-C44 acid esters such as hexyl laurate; and mixtures thereof. However, it is preferable that the upper oily phase contain no oil other than the aforementioned linear alkane(s).

[0032] The upper oily phase may represent 8 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is understood that the sum of the percentages of the three phases constituting the composition according to the invention will always equal 100%.

[0033] According to one embodiment of the invention, the upper oily phase contains at least one additional constituent selected from: perfumes, antioxidants such as tocopherol and its esters, oil phase structuring agents, surfactants, active ingredients and / or UV filters that are liposoluble or lipodispersible in a non-polar oily medium, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] In particular, according to one embodiment of the invention, the upper oily phase contains at least one colorant suitable for giving it a color distinct from the intermediate oily phase.

[0035] However, like the intermediate phase, the upper phase of the composition according to the invention does not contain any silicone compound. Furthermore, it is preferred that the upper oily phase contain no constituents other than the aforementioned linear or branched alkanes and possibly one or more perfumes, colorants, antioxidants, and / or preservatives.

[0036] As previously stated, at least one of the three phases of the composition according to the invention may contain at least one active ingredient. Preferably, this should be an anti-aging active ingredient, in particular one suitable for preventing and / or treating wrinkles, sagging skin and / or the formation of pigment spots, which may be selected from among free radical scavengers, agents stimulating the differentiation and / or proliferation of keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts; agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and / or collagen and / or dermo-epidermal anchoring fibrils and / or elastic fibers; agents preventing the degradation of collagen and / or glycosaminoglycans and / or dermo-epidermal anchoring fibrils and / or elastic fibers; anti-glycation agents; depigmenting agents and / or melanogenesis inhibitors; and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Examples of such anti-aging active ingredients include: ascorbic acid, its salts, ethers and esters, notably ascorbyl glucoside; adenosine; ribose; honey extracts; proteins and glycoproteins, extracted notably from sweet almond; hydrolyzed vegetable proteins, notably from rice, hibiscus seeds or lupin;polypeptides and pseudodipeptides, such as carcinine hydrochloride, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 marketed in particular by SEDERMA under the trade names Matrixyl ®< 3000 and Matrixyl ®< Synthe'6, respectively, palmitoyl tripeptide-8 marketed by LUCAS MEYER under the trade name Nutrazen ®< , pentapeptide-18 marketed by LIPOTEC under the trade name Leuphasyl ®< Solution, sh-decapeptide-9 marketed by SANDREAM under the trade name Neoendorphin ®< and palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 marketed by INFINITEC under the trade name X50 Myocept ®< Powder; silanes such as methylsilanol mannuronate; arabinoxylans, extracted in particular from rye flour, and galactoarabinans, derived in particular from larch; hyaluronic acid and its salts;polyphenols, extracted in particular from mimosa; alpha-hydroxy acids, including those extracted from lemon; extracts (generally aqueous) of plants such as marjoram (; Origanum majorana ), the immortal ( Helichrysum italicum ), bogbean, wild pansy, field horsetail, Mafane ( Acmella oleracea ), the thistle for donkeys ( Onopordum acanthium ), the mille-feuille ( Achillea millefolium, contained in particular in the product Neurobiox ®< from BASF), embelia ( Embelia concinna, as marketed by the company SEPPIC), the prickly pear ( Opuntia ficus indica , marketed notably by MIBELLE AG BIOCHEMISTRY under the trade name AquaCacteen ®< ), sage ( Salvia officinalis, sold notably by PROVITAL GROUP), Vitex negundo(marketed notably by EXPANSCIENCE LABORATORIES under the trade name Neurovity ®), chestnut, papaya, argan tree, oat, sunflower, daisy, peony or dill; aqueous extracts of algae, particularly coralline, red jania, etc. Ungaria pinnatifada , of Alaria esculenta or Nannochlorosis oculata Essential oils, particularly myrtle or immortelle ( Helichrysum italicum ); zinc and / or copper gluconates; and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Alternatively or in addition, the active ingredient incorporated in at least one of the phases of the composition according to the invention may be chosen from among moisturizing active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid; urea; polyols, including xylitol, sorbitol, propylene glycol or the mixture of xylityl glucoside, xylitol and anhydroxylitol marketed by SEPPIC under the trade name Aquaxyl ®; Réotier water; and mixtures thereof.

[0039] The aqueous and oily phases described above can be mixed in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art, after homogenizing their respective components, to obtain the composition according to the invention. Once the composition is prepared and placed in a container such as a bottle, it rapidly separates, after a few seconds. After shaking, the composition visually consists of a single phase and, once left to stand, it again rapidly separates.

[0040] The composition described above can be used for the care, cleansing, and / or perfuming of the skin (face and / or body) and / or hair, and / or for removing makeup, particularly from the face, including the eye area if desired. It can, for example, be applied to the skin one to three times a day, such as morning and / or evening. It may be advantageously packaged in a bottle with a spray nozzle. It can be a rinse-off or leave-on formula. EXAMPLES

[0041] The invention will be better understood in light of the following examples, which are given for illustrative purposes only. Example 1 Triphasic compositions

[0042] The ingredients mentioned below were mixed in the weight proportions also indicated below, to prepare different compositions according to the invention. Aqueous phase

[0043] Water 52,0 - 58,5 % Glycerin 3,0 - 8,0 % Anti-aging active ingredient qs Sea salt 1,0 - 1,2 % Conservatives 4,0 - 4,5 % pH adjuster qs (Total aqueous phase 64.8 - 73.3%) Oily intermediate phase

[0044] Castor oil 10,7 - 12,0 % Vegetable oil 3,8 - 5,0 % Anti-aging ingredients qs Antioxidant qs Dye qs Scent qs (Castor oil to vegetable oil ratio: 68:32 to 74:26) (Total oily phase 1: 15.0-17.7%) Oily upper phase

[0045] Linear C15-C19 alkanes 9,0 - 17,50 %

[0046] The various compositions above are presented in the form of three-phase compositions at rest, in which the interfaces are clearly defined and each of the phases is translucent or transparent. Example 2 : Comparative tests

[0047] Several compositions similar to those in Example 1 were prepared by varying the nature and / or proportion of their constituents. The appearance of the resulting compositions was visually assessed. The results of these tests are summarized in Table 1 below. Table 1 Composition Parameter changed Appearance of the composition at rest A Castor oil to vegetable oil ratio = 60:40 Biphase 1A Castor oil to vegetable oil ratio = 80:20 and 90:10 Three-phase, clean interfaces. B Substitution of linear alkanes by dicaprylyl ether (similar polarity and density) Biphase C Substitution of castor oil with olive oil (similar polarity and density) Biphase D Glycerin removal Triphase - Opalescent oily intermediate phase after agitation - Interfaces not sharp.

[0048] As can be seen from these tests, particularly from the comparison of the results obtained for the comparative composition A, on the one hand, and compositions 1A and Example 1 (according to the invention), on the other hand, a vegetable oil can be added to the composition according to the invention, provided that a minimum weight ratio of 65:35 between the castor oil and the vegetable oil is maintained; otherwise, it is not possible to obtain a triphasic composition. Furthermore, the castor oil and the linear alkanes, present respectively in the intermediate oily phase and the upper oily phase, cannot be entirely replaced by an oil of equivalent polarity and density without affecting the physical appearance of the composition.Obtaining a three-phase composition is therefore not solely dependent on the respective densities and polarities of the different phases, as demonstrated by comparing the results obtained for comparative compositions B and C, on the one hand, and the composition of Example 1 (according to the invention), on the other. Finally, comparing comparative composition D with those of Example 1 according to the invention shows that glycerin is a critical ingredient for obtaining clean interfaces.

Claims

1. A three-phase cosmetic composition comprising: (a) an aqueous lower phase representing at least 50% of the weight of the composition and containing from 2% to 15% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the composition, (b) a non-silicone oily intermediate phase containing castor oil and optionally at least another plant oil, and (c) a non-silicone oily upper phase containing at least one linear or branched C10-C20 alkane, it being understood that when the oily intermediate phase contains at least another plant oil, the weight ratio of the castor oil to the plant oil is at least 65:35.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the castor oil represents from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the glycerol represents from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the linear or branched C10-C20 alkane represents from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the linear or branched C10-C20 alkane is chosen from decane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, eicosane and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the oily intermediate phase contains at least one plant oil, in a weight ratio of the castor oil to the plant oil of at least 65:35, preferably of at least 70:30, more preferably between 70:30 and 90:10.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the plant oil is chosen from wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, argon oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, echium oil, camelina oil, camellia oil and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the aqueous lower phase represents from 50% to 90%, preferably from 60% to 85% and more preferentially from 70% to 80% of the total weight of the composition.

9. A cosmetic use of the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming the skin and / or hair and / or for removing makeup from the skin, notably the face.

10. A cosmetic method for caring for, cleansing and / or perfuming the skin and / or hair and / or for removing makeup from the skin, notably the face, comprising the topical application of a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 on the skin.