JEWELRY WITH SWIVELING DECOR

Description

Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to an article of jewelry, for example a ring or a pendant, comprising a body and a decoration pivotally mounted on the body. Technological background

[0002] A piece of jewelry, such as a ring, may include a body, typically in the form of a frame or a ring band, and a setting attached to the body. The setting typically includes ornamentation such as a gemstone or a motif. In the case of a ring, for example, the setting is attached to the body, which is in the form of a ring into which the wearer inserts their finger to wear the ring.

[0003] It is known to provide a reversible decoration, that is to say a decoration capable of pivoting around an axis passing through the branches of the body of the article, and which comprises at least two faces bearing different ornamentations, for example different precious stones, or different patterns or precious metals.

[0004] So, in this case, the user benefits from a "two-in-one" aspect, allowing him to modify the appearance of the jewelry item without having to change it.

[0005] An example of such a jewelry item with reversible decoration, applied to a jewelry ring, is described in particular in document FR 2 115 669.

[0006] It is also common to add an indexing system to the reversible decoration, that is to say a system which imposes precise and stable angular orientations of the decoration in relation to the body of the article. Thus, it is possible for example to provide indexing according to two stable positions, including a first position in which the decoration is in the recto position, revealing the face bearing the first ornament, and a second position in which the decoration is in the verso position, revealing the face bearing the second ornament.

[0007] It is also possible to provide additional indexing positions depending on subsequent uses of the article, in which the decoration is for example positioned at 45° or 90° relative to the initial position of the decoration.

[0008] Document US 1,553,198 describes on this subject a reversible jewelry ring whose decoration pivots relative to the body of the ring, and remains held in a horizontal position by means of an indexing by spring stop (“spring catch” in English, according to this document).

[0009] Document CN 203 762 439 describes a piece of jewelry comprising a decoration that can be rotated relative to the body of the item.

[0010] Document CN 204 336 040 describes a jewelry ring with a pivoting decoration.

[0011] Document CH 717 457 describes a piece of jewelry comprising a ring and spherical elements bearing decorations, the spherical elements being able to be rotated relative to the ring.

[0012] Document US 2003 / 172673 describes a jewelry ring comprising at least one support for a precious stone decoration, the support being capable of being set in motion.

[0013] Document US 5,787,731 describes the preamble of claim 1. It describes a jewelry ring whose pivoting decoration comprises a plurality of substantially square-shaped blocks which delimit housings capable of receiving a corresponding projection of the ring body. The indexing positions therefore correspond to the insertion positions of the projection of the ring body in each of the housings of the decoration.

[0014] It is clear from these documents that the indexing positions lock the decoration in predetermined angular positions imposed by the structure of the indexing system. In practice, the indexing positions are chosen during the manufacture of the jewelry item, and it is not possible for the user to modify them.

[0015] This indexing can be problematic when the user wants to place the decoration in a position that does not correspond to any of the indexing positions. This can happen, for example, when taking pictures of the jewelry item, whether worn or not.

[0016] Indexing can also lead to discomfort issues. For example, if the jewelry item is a pendant, the indexed decoration may not be parallel to the wearer's neck or chest, so the wearer may experience discomfort. The same is true if the jewelry item is a ring, and the indexed decoration abuts the wearer's knuckle.

[0017] Another problem observed with state-of-the-art jewelry items concerns metal-to-metal friction between the decoration and the body of the item, which in the long run structurally and visually degrades the item.

[0018] In some cases, the metal degradation is such that it prevents the decoration from rotating smoothly and regularly, leading the user to have to rotate the decoration jerkily, which is neither practical nor comfortable. The degradation can even lead to breakage of the jewelry item.

[0019] Furthermore, in the luxury goods industry, the metals used to make jewelry are generally precious metals, possibly adorned with precious stones. Therefore, deterioration of the item is likely to reduce its value or require costly repairs. Brief description of the invention

[0020] One aim of the invention is to provide a piece of jewelry, for example a pendant or a ring, which overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks.

[0021] The invention aims in particular to provide such a piece of jewelry making it possible to avoid metal-metal contact between the body of the article and the decoration, in particular when the decoration pivots.

[0022] To this end, the invention provides a piece of jewelry comprising an article body, a decoration capable of pivoting relative to the article body by applying a torque, and an insert positioned between the article body and the decoration, the decoration being mounted on the insert and capable of pivoting relative to said insert.

[0023] The presence of an insert between the body of the article and the decoration makes it possible to avoid any contact between these parts, thus avoiding the abrasive effect and / or the matting effect (plastic deformation) usually caused by the friction of the decoration against the body of the article, and thus the wear of said decoration and body of the article likely to alter the aesthetics of the jewelry article but also the movement of the pivoting decoration.

[0024] The invention aims in particular to provide such a piece of jewelry making it possible to dispense with the indexing of the decoration, that is to say the predetermined positions that the decoration can take in rotation relative to the body of the article.

[0025] More specifically, the present invention relates to a jewelry item comprising an item body, a decoration capable of pivoting relative to the item body by applying a torque, and an insert positioned between the item body and the decoration, the decoration being mounted on the insert and capable of pivoting relative to said insert, the article body and the decoration being made of a material chosen from gold and its alloys, silver and its alloys, and platinum and its alloys, the insert being made of a material which is anti-wear and anti-deformation of the article body and the decoration.

[0026] Generally speaking, a wear-resistant and anti-deformation material is capable of sliding without altering the body of the article and the decoration through wear or plastic deformation.

[0027] The insert is advantageously made of deformable shape memory material. According to this embodiment, it returns to its initial position and shape as soon as the stresses applied to it cease.

[0028] Preferably, the insert is made of a thermoplastic or elastomeric polymeric material or thermoplastic elastomer (e.g., rubber), and the decoration of the jewelry item is clamped onto the insert, the clamping being adjusted to induce a minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration or the article body to pivot said decoration around the insert.

[0029] The term "with clamping" means that the decoration is mounted so as to exert pressure on the insert, while remaining mobile in rotation around the latter if a torque greater than the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration or to the article body.

[0030] Rotatingly mounted on the insert, the decoration is in direct contact with the insert. At rest, when the decoration is not mechanically stressed, i.e. when no force or torque is applied to the decoration, it remains immobile due to friction between its surface and a corresponding surface of the insert. This balance is ensured by a predetermined adjustment between the diameter of the insert and that of the decoration

[0031] The decoration remains fixed as long as it is at rest or as long as a torque is applied to it (or to the body of the article) which is less than the minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration to make it pivot, also called "pivoting torque".

[0032] When a torque greater than or equal to the pivoting torque is applied to the decoration (or to the article body), it pivots around the insert. The insert thus has a function as a mechanical axis of rotation of the decoration. The surfaces of the decoration and the insert rub against each other, generating a friction force which opposes the rotation of the decoration, and tends to keep it in a fixed position. From then on, the rotation of the decoration continues as long as the minimum pivoting torque is maintained, then the decoration stops when the torque decreases and becomes lower than the minimum pivoting torque.

[0033] The decoration can therefore take any rotational position relative to the body of the article. This frees us from the predetermined indexing positions of state-of-the-art jewelry articles.

[0034] The jewelry item according to the invention may in particular be a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, an earring, or a brooch. The item according to the invention therefore allows the user to position the decoration in the angular position he wishes, by simple manual action on the decoration or on the body of the item. He can thus, for example, position the decoration so that it is perfectly perpendicular to his chest, in the case of a pendant, or to his phalanx, in the case of a ring, in order to feel no discomfort.

[0035] Advantageously, the minimum pivoting torque of the decor can be adjusted by tightening a screw, which, together with the insert, forms an adjustment system.

[0036] Thus, the jewelry item preferably comprises at least one adjustment system adapted to adjust the minimum pivoting torque, said at least one adjustment system comprising: an insert, which is further provided with a bore, a screw which extends along the bore of the insert, provided with a screw body housed in the article body and passing through the bore of the insert, and advantageously with a screw head, the insert being capable of deforming radially when tightening or loosening the screw so as to modify the minimum pivoting torque. Advantageously, the screw head is in contact or cooperates with the insert.

[0037] Tightening the screw causes the insert to deform in a substantially radial direction, i.e. substantially perpendicular to the screw body. As it deforms, the insert is pressed against the decoration, which increases the minimum pivoting torque. Indeed, the more the screw is tightened, the more the insert deforms and increases its outer diameter, the tighter the fit between the decoration and the insert, the greater the friction forces, and the greater the minimum pivoting torque. Conversely, the less the screw is tightened, the less the insert deforms, the more the fit between the decoration and the insert is without play or tightening, the lower the friction forces, and the greater the minimum pivoting torque.

[0038] The term "deformable" relating to the insert corresponds to a deformation of the insert of at least the order of a hundredth of a millimeter up to the order of a millimeter.

[0039] In practice, the minimum pivoting torque is set by the manufacturer when the ring is mounted. However, provision can be made for the minimum pivoting torque to be adjusted by the user, so that they can adapt it to their strength or the conditions of use of the item.

[0040] The adjustment system is positioned in an attachment region between the decoration and the article body. If there are multiple attachment regions, it is possible to provide multiple adjustment systems, including one adjustment system in each attachment region.

[0041] According to other aspects, the jewelry item according to the invention has the following different characteristics taken alone or according to their technically possible combinations: when the jewelry item comprises an adjustment system incorporating a screw, tightening the screw increases the outer diameter of the insert, increasing the minimum pivoting torque, and respectively loosening the screw decreases the outer diameter of the insert, decreasing the minimum pivoting torque; the insert is in the form of a part of revolution, preferably cylindrical, which extends along a geometric axis, the decoration being mounted on the insert and capable of pivoting around said geometric axis; the insert is in the form of a part of revolution, preferably cylindrical, comprising a shoulder located between the decoration and the article body, capable of serving as a support surface for the decoration to separate the article body and the decoration. According to this embodiment, the separation of the article body and the decoration, to avoid degradation of the metallic materials, is achieved by the shoulder of the insert.The external diameter of the insert described above, which may increase or decrease depending on the tightening of the screw (when the jewelry item includes an adjustment system incorporating a screw), is considered without the shoulder; . the adjustment system further comprises at least one washer located between the screw head and the decoration. This washer separates the screw head and the decoration. Preferably, the washer is made of thermoplastic polymer material or elastomer or thermoplastic elastomer, possibly in the same material as the insert; the insert is made of non-metallic material; the polymer material of the insert is chosen from polyoxymethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, and mixtures thereof; the jewelry item is devoid of a system for indexing the position of the decoration relative to the body of the item; the jewelry item is a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, an earring, or a brooch; the jewelry item comprises two adjustment systems, each positioned in a region where the decoration is attached to the body of the item. Description of the figures

[0042] Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear on reading the following description given by way of illustrative and non-limiting example, with reference to the following appended figures: [ Fig. 1 ] There Figure 1 is a perspective view of a piece of jewelry according to the invention, this being a ring. Fig. 2 ] There Figure 2 is a sectional side view of the ring of the Figure 1 . [ Fig. 3 ] There Figure 3 is a close-up view of the attachment region A shown in the Figure 2 , centered on the adjustment system. [ Fig. 4 ] There Figure 4 is an exploded perspective view of the ring of the Figure 1 . Detailed description of embodiments of the invention

[0043] The invention relates to an item of jewelry, which may be, for example, a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, an earring, a brooch, or any other item of jewelry comprising a decoration that can rotate relative to an item body.

[0044] An embodiment of such a jewelry item according to the invention, wherein the item is a jewelry ring, is illustrated in detail in the figures 1 to 4 . The various embodiments and characteristics relating to this ring are also suitable for other types of jewelry items, including pendants, bracelets, earrings, and brooches.

[0045] The ring 1 comprises a ring body 2 and a decoration 3 capable of pivoting along a geometric axis 4 relative to the ring body by applying a torque to the decoration or to the ring body.

[0046] The ring body 2 is in the form of an open ring whose ends 5 are opposite each other.

[0047] The decoration 3 has a clover shape, or quadrilobed structure, and is pivotally mounted along the axis 4 on the ends 5 of the branches of the ring. It comprises two main faces provided with different ornaments, including an upper face 6 covered with a precious stone 8, for example a diamond, a ruby or a sapphire, surrounded by a guilloché 9, and a lower face 7 comprising two ornaments 10, 11. A guilloché is a well-known termination in jewelry, which is composed of wavy lines that intertwine with symmetry.

[0048] Decoration 3 is typically made of a precious or semi-precious metal, or an alloy of precious metals regularly used in the luxury industry. The decoration is made of a material chosen from gold and its alloys, silver and its alloys, or platinum and its alloys.

[0049] When the alloy is gold-based (at least 583 ‰ or at least 14 carats), it advantageously comprises at least 750 ‰ by mass of gold (18 carats), for example at least 917 ‰ by mass of gold (22 carats). It may in particular be yellow gold, white gold, pink gold or red gold. When the alloy is silver-based, it advantageously comprises at least 900 ‰ by mass of silver, more advantageously at least 925 ‰ by mass of silver.

[0050] When the alloy is platinum-based, it advantageously comprises at least 930‰ by mass of platinum, for example 953‰ by mass of platinum.

[0051] The ring body 2 and the decoration 3 are traversed by portions of spheres 24 made of metal, for example shaped by machining or casting, positioned in particular on the outer side of the ring body and along the periphery of each of the upper 6 and lower 7 faces of the decoration.

[0052] Obviously, the shape and ornaments of the decoration 3, just like those of the ring body 2, are not limited to those represented on the figures 1 to 4 . It is possible, for example, to provide a circular or square decoration, or even a difference in precious metal between the upper 6 and lower 7 faces of the decoration and to apply all kinds of terminations known to those skilled in the art.

[0053] Similarly, the number of faces of the decoration 3 is not necessarily limited to two, and it is possible to provide a decoration comprising more than two faces, for example three, four, five, or six faces, depending on the design and the desired arrangement of the ornaments of the ring.

[0054] The ring 1 comprises an insert 14 positioned between the article body 2 and the decoration 3, and makes it possible to avoid any contact between these two parts. The decoration 3 is mounted on the insert 14. The axis 4 constitutes the geometric axis of the insert 14, around which the decoration 3 pivots.

[0055] Preferably, the decoration 3 is driven with little tightening onto the insert 14. The tightening is chosen and adjusted so as to allow the decoration 3 to pivot relative to the insert 14 only when a torque greater than a minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration or to the article body. The insert 14 thus makes it possible to maintain or return the decoration 3 to a fixed position when the decoration is not mechanically stressed or when a torque less than the minimum pivoting torque is applied to it, while allowing the decoration 3 to pivot when a force greater than or equal to the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration.

[0056] On the method of realization of the figures 1 to 4 , the ring 1 further comprises an adjustment system 12 adapted to adjust the minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration 3 (or to the ring body 2) to make it pivot around the insert 14.

[0057] These aspects are described in more detail in the remainder of this text, with the support of the constituent elements of the adjustment system 12 illustrated in detail on the Figure 3 .

[0058] In reference to the Figure 3 , the adjustment system 12 comprises at least one insert 14 as described previously, and at least one screw 13.

[0059] The screw 13 and the insert 14 are located at each attachment region of the decoration 3 with the ring body 2. On the figures 1 , 2 And 4 , there are two attachment regions 25, 26, located at the two ends 5 of the ring body. Thus, according to the embodiment of the ring shown in the figures, the adjustment system 12 comprises two screws 13 and two inserts 14. For the purpose of simplification and to avoid repetitions, only one combination of insert and screw is described, and corresponds to the attachment region A circled on the Figure 2, between the end of the left branch of the ring body 2 and one end (one of the lobes) of the decoration 3.

[0060] The screw 13 extends along the axis 4. It comprises a screw body 15 provided with a thread, housed in an orifice 17 provided in the ring body 2, and a screw head 16 housed in the decoration 3, more precisely in a housing 18 provided in one end of the decoration 3.

[0061] The housing 18 is extended by an orifice 19, illustrated in the Figure 3 , which opens onto the outside of the decoration 3, and which is crossed by a portion of the screw body 15. The surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 is arranged at a distance from and opposite the screw body 15, a space 21 being provided between said surface 20 and said screw body 15.

[0062] The screw 13 is therefore fixed relative to the ring body 2. The decoration 3 is mobile in rotation around the screw 13.

[0063] The screw 13 cooperates with the insert 14 to adjust the minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration 3 to allow or continue the rotation of said decoration. This adjustment of the minimum pivoting torque, carried out by tightening or loosening the screw 13, will be described in more detail later in this text.

[0064] The insert 14 is positioned in the space 21 between the screw body 15 and the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3.

[0065] Preferably, the insert 14 is a part of revolution provided with a bore 22 crossed by the screw body 15, and fitted onto said screw body 15.

[0066] As illustrated by the Figure 3, the insert 14 may comprise a shoulder 27, located between the decoration 3 and the ring body 2, capable of serving as a bearing surface at the end of the decoration 3, to separate the decoration 3 and the ring body 2. This avoids any contact between the decoration 3 and the ring body 2, and therefore any wear of the parts likely to alter the aesthetics of the jewelry item but also the movement of the pivoting decoration. This is particularly important when precious metals are used in the design of these parts.

[0067] The insert 14 used as an element of the adjustment system 12 is deformable. It is preferably made of a thermoplastic polymer material, more preferably chosen from polyoxymethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, and their mixtures. The thermoplastic polymers that can be used include in particular thermoplastic elastomers (TPE), for example from the rubber family.

[0068] The insert 14 is engaged with the decoration 3, that is to say that they are in close contact via their respective surface, namely the external surface 23 of the insert and the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3. This close contact opposes the rotation of the decoration 3, by generating a resistance to pivoting, and therefore a friction force, whether the decoration is mobile or immobile.

[0069] When the decor 3 is at rest, no force being applied to it, it remains motionless. In fact, the friction force prevents any rotation of the decor 3.

[0070] The decoration 3 only pivots when a torque greater than or equal to the minimum pivoting torque is applied to it, typically by manual action of the user, for example by applying his thumb against the back of one end of the decoration and his index finger against the front of an opposite end of the decoration. Indeed, when a torque less than the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration, the friction force prevents the rotation of the decoration. When a torque at least equal to the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration, this torque is sufficient to overcome the friction force and the decoration pivots. It continues to pivot as long as the applied torque overcomes the friction force.

[0071] It is specified that the ring body 2 advantageously has an elasticity allowing the insert 14, in particular the shoulder 27 of the insert, to be pressed against the decoration 3. This elasticity may be intrinsic to the material of the ring body 2, and / or obtained by heat treatment known to those skilled in the art.

[0072] Furthermore, the minimum pivoting torque can be modified by changing the combination of materials of the insert 14 and the decoration 3. For example, a gold (Au) decoration and a polyoxymethylene insert 14 can be chosen, or a platinum (Pt) decoration and a polyoxymethylene insert 14, so as to obtain a different coefficient of friction between the parts.

[0073] The adjustment system 12 also comprises at least one deformable washer 28, located between the screw 13 and the decoration 3, which separates the screw 13 and the decoration 3. The washer 28 makes it possible, depending on the shape of the screw head 16 and / or depending on the use of the ring 1 when the decoration 3 is rotated, to avoid any metal-metal contact between the screw 13 and the decoration 3.

[0074] The 12 adjustment system works as follows.

[0075] The screw 13 is adjusted so as to obtain the desired minimum pivoting torque. This step is typically carried out by the manufacturer during assembly of the ring. It is possible to provide embodiments of the invention in which the screw can also be operated by the user himself.

[0076] By tightening the screw 13, the screw head 16 moves towards the insert 14, and compresses the latter against the ring body 2. By compressing longitudinally (parallel to the screw body 15), the insert 14 deforms radially (direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction), which creates a radial bulge of the insert pressing against the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3.

[0077] As a result, the clamping between the decor 3 and the insert 14 increases.

[0078] This results in an increase in the pivoting resistance of the decor 3, and thus, in an increase in the minimum pivoting torque required to pivot the decor 3.

[0079] Conversely, by loosening the screw 13, the screw head 16 moves, decompressing the insert 14, and the latter deforms in the direction of its nominal shape. By releasing longitudinally, the insert 14 releases radially, which reduces the radial bulge of the insert, thus reducing the pressure of the insert against the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3.

[0080] As a result, the clamping between the decor 3 and the insert 14 decreases.

[0081] This results in a reduction in the pivoting resistance of the decor 3, and thus, in a reduction in the minimum pivoting torque required to pivot the decor 3.

Claims

1. Jewellery item (1) comprising an item body (2), a decorative element (3) capable of pivoting relative to the item body (2) by application of a torque, wherein the jewellery item (1) comprises an insert (14) positioned between the item body (2) and the decorative element (3), the decorative element (3) being mounted on the insert (14) and capable of pivoting relative to said insert (14), the item body (2) and the decorative element (3) being made of a material chosen from gold and its alloys, silver and its alloys, and platinum and its alloys, characterised in that the insert (14) is made of a material that prevents wear and deformation of the item body (2) and the decorative element (3).

2. Jewellery item (1) according to claim 1, wherein the insert (14) is made of thermoplastic polymer or elastomer or thermoplastic elastomer material, and the decorative element (3) is clamped to the insert (14), the clamping being adjusted to induce a minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decorative element (3) or to the item body (2) to pivot said decorative element (3) relative to the insert (14).

3. Jewellery item (1) according to claim 2, comprising at least one setting system (12) adapted to set the minimum pivoting torque, said at least one setting system (12) comprising: - the insert (14), which is further provided with a bore, - a screw (13) which extends along the bore of the insert (14), provided with a screw body (15) housed in the item body (2) and passing through the bore of the insert, and advantageously with a screw head (16), the insert (14) being able to deform radially when the screw (13) is tightened or loosened so as to modify the minimum pivoting torque.

4. Jewellery item (1) according to claim 3, wherein tightening the screw (13) increases the outer diameter of the insert (14), increasing the minimum pivoting torque, and respectively loosening the screw decreases the outer diameter of the insert (14), decreasing the minimum pivoting torque.

5. Jewellery item (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the insert (14) is in the form of a piece of revolution, preferably cylindrical, which extends along a geometric axis (4), the decorative element (3) being mounted on the insert (14) and capable of pivoting about said geometric axis (4).

6. Jewellery item (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the insert (14) is in the form of a piece of revolution, preferably cylindrical, comprising a shoulder (27) located between the decorative element (3) and the item body (2), capable of serving as a bearing surface for the decorative element (3) to separate the item body (2) and the decorative element (3).

7. Jewellery item (1) according to any one of the preceding claims in combination with claim 3, wherein the adjustment system (12) further comprises at least one washer (28), located between the screw (13) and the decorative element (3), which separates the screw (13) and the decorative element (3).

8. Jewellery item (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the material of the insert (14) is chosen from polyoxymethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, and mixtures thereof.

9. Jewellery item (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, said article (1) being devoid of a system for indexing the position of the decorative element (3) relative to the item body (2).

10. Jewellery item (1) according to any one of the preceding claims, said item being a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, an earring, or a brooch.

11. Jewellery item (1) according to any one of the preceding claims in combination with claim 3, said article comprising two setting systems (12), each positioned in an attachment region of the decorative element (3) with the item body (2).