Textile fabric for producing a garment and garment made therefrom

Abstract

The invention relates to a textile fabric (1) having a first and a second surface (2, 2') for producing a garment (3) in a predefined size, wherein a cutting pattern (4) with parts (4) for tailoring the garment (3) is visually identifiable on one of the surfaces (2, 2'). According to the invention, in the production process, on account of the weaving of the warp and weft threads (6, 7), markings (8) are formed on one of these surfaces (2, 2') by a change in colour or pattern (9), said markings (8) indicating cutting and / or stitching lines (10, 11) for the individual parts (4) of the cutting pattern (4). The cutting pattern (4) outlined in this way differs from the dimensions of the subsequent garment (3) by less than 3% and less than 1 cm both in the direction of the warp threads (6) and in the direction of the weft threads (7). The invention also relates to a garment (3) produced from such a fabric (1).

Description

Technical area

[0001] The invention relates to a textile fabric having a first and a second surface for producing a garment in a predetermined body size, for example, a piece of sportswear, wherein a pattern comprising multiple pieces for tailoring the garment is visually recognizable on one of the surfaces. The garment is created by cutting and sewing the pieces together, so that each of the pieces is oriented with one of its surfaces facing the body and with the opposite surface facing away from the body when worn. The invention also relates to such a garment. State of the art

[0002] Textile fabrics, also called woven fabric or simply fabric, are widely available in a wide variety of variations and are ideal for tailoring garments in specific body sizes.

[0003] To make a garment, a suitable fabric is selected, the individual cut-out pieces of a selected pattern are placed on it, and their contours are traced. The fabric is then cut along the contours or at a hem's distance from them, and the resulting pieces are sewn together. This method is very old and has proven itself to this day. However, the effort involved in cutting out the patterns, transferring their contours to the fabric, and cutting them out to create the cut-out pieces is relatively significant. Therefore, garments are primarily manufactured in low-wage countries.

[0004] EP 1091029 also discloses tubular garments made of a double-walled fabric with laterally joined edges, with the wearer's body positioned between the two surfaces of the original fabric. A disadvantage of such garments is the limited flexibility of the pattern between the front and back of the garment.

[0005] Furthermore, JP 2006 009172A discloses a similar hollow fabric from which pieces can be cut out with a connecting edge at one edge. The hollow fabric is then unfolded and reused as a piece twice its size.

[0006] In WO 2008 / 099830, fabric panels are produced with parts of a pattern with different structured or differently colored patterns. Description of the invention

[0007] It is the object of the present invention to describe a textile fabric as specified at the outset, which is produced in an alternative manner, and to show new possibilities of this fabric.

[0008] It is a further object of the invention to provide the fabric with additional properties by which subsequent process steps in the manufacture of a garment can be eliminated.

[0009] A further task is to describe a garment made of such a fabric. Furthermore, this garment should also exhibit additional, improved properties.

[0010] The objects are achieved by the features of the independent patent claims of a respective category. Further advantageous embodiments are described in the subclaims.

[0011] According to the invention, in a textile fabric as mentioned above, due to the interweaving of the warp and weft threads during the manufacturing process, markings are formed by color or pattern changes on the surface on which the parts of the pattern are visually recognizable. These markings indicate the cutting and / or sewing lines of the individual parts of the pattern. The pattern thus represented deviates from the specified dimensions of the final garment by less than 3% and less than 1 cm in both the warp and weft thread directions.

[0012] Fabrics produced in this way can be cut immediately along the visible pattern changes, without the need to create a pattern, cut it out, and transfer its contours to the fabric. The resulting pieces can be cut and sewn together using the conventional method to create garments in the desired sizes.

[0013] Although the production of such a fabric appears technically simple, patterns for garments in predefined sizes are not woven into the fabric because the effort required is so great. This also results in a lack of flexibility in production. Before the fabric is manufactured, it must be determined how many garments are to be produced in which sizes for men and women. If a piece cannot be used later, for example, because it was cut incorrectly or because it contains a weaving defect, a replacement piece cannot simply be cut. The entire garment becomes scrap, and a finished piece is missing from the collection.

[0014] Another problem is dimensional stability. After weaving, the fabrics are dyed and undergo further chemical processes that alter their mass in the warp and weft directions. For these reasons, a skilled person would copy the contours of the pattern onto the fabric using conventional methods. However, it turns out that the fabric according to the invention offers further advantages.

[0015] Since the location of individual fabric sections in the garment is already known during production, additional visual and functional woven structures can be created at predetermined locations without any additional effort. This means that logos or lettering can be woven into the fabric at predetermined points without having to be printed or sewn on later. This not only saves additional work, but also has the following advantages: The logos or lettering do not fade, cannot peel off with age, do not stiffen the underlying fabric, and do not cause pinholes. When using waterproof fabrics, such as those primarily used for outdoor clothing, needleholes would reduce the waterproofness and thus weaken the fabric, which can therefore be prevented.The logos and patterns can also be fully integrated into the design of the garment.

[0016] In addition, cavities such as pockets are created in the fabric at designated points during weaving, which can be used for various purposes. The cavities or pockets are arranged between the inside and outside of the final garment. Such pockets, when accessible from one side of the fabric, do not create a seam or visible contour on the other side of the fabric. The garments made from such pieces are novel in their functions and appearance. The seams can be designed in such a way that their fabric edges lie completely within the cavities and there is no hem protruding on either side, even though the fabric itself is a single layer apart from the cavities.This allows zippers to be sewn in without a visible seam, creating garments such as jackets that can be worn on both sides without visible or protruding seams, even though the jacket is single-layered. Inserts such as protectors can also be inserted into such cavities without the need to sew pockets and without visible seams. The cavities can also be used to create integrated pockets for storing personal items in desired locations. Short description of the drawings

[0017] The invention is explained in more detail below with reference to the drawings. They show the fabric according to the invention and further aspects thereof. They show: Fig. 1 shows a schematic representation of a fabric according to the invention as a roll of fabric; Fig. 2 shows a schematic partial sectional representation of a fabric with a cavity; Fig. 3 shows a schematic representation of a top view of the fabric with a cavity designed as a pocket; Fig. 4 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a part cut out of the fabric, a) with an integrated pocket for personal use; b) with an integrated pocket with inserts; Fig. 5 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric cut along a cutting line with a cut-open cavity in the seam area, with two fabric edges; Fig. 6 shows a perspective representation of a fabric cut along a cutting line with a channel in the seam area; Fig. 7 shows a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric according to Fig. 5, to which a connecting part was sewn between its two fabric edges; Fig. 8 a perspective, schematic representation of a fabric according to Fig. 6 , to which a connecting part was sewn, enclosed by its channel; Fig. 9 a view of a garment according to the invention. Ways to implement the invention

[0018] Fig. 1shows a roll of fabric with the textile fabric 1 according to the invention. This fabric 1 comprises a first and a second surface 2, 2' and is suitable for producing a garment 3 in a given body size. In the present case, a piece of sportswear, in particular a motorcycle jacket, can be produced therefrom. On one of the surfaces 2, 2', here the upper one, a cutting pattern 4 with several parts 4 for tailoring the garment 3 is visually visible. A warp thread 6 and a weft thread 7 are also schematically shown on each side. The garment 3, here a sportswear jacket, is created by cutting out and sewing together the individual parts 4. Each of the parts 4 is oriented with one of its surfaces, 2 or 2', facing the body when worn, and with the opposite surface 2' or 2 of this part 4 facing away from the body.

[0019] According to the invention, during the manufacturing process, markings 8 are formed on at least one of these surfaces 2, 2' due to the interweaving of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 by color or pattern changes 9, which mark cutting and / or sewing lines 10, 11 of the individual parts of the pattern 4. The woven pattern 4 thus represented deviates from the specified dimensions of the subsequent garment 3 in both the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 by less than 3% and less than 1 cm, even if the fabric 1 is elastic over its entire surface and in both directions.

[0020] Dimensional accuracy is very important so that the parts 4 can later be assembled into the desired garment 3. Therefore, all parts 4 must have the appropriate dimensions for each women's and men's size. Depending on the type of fabric 1, the dimensions may not yet meet the specifications during weaving, as the fabric 1 can still shrink in the subsequent processes after weaving. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the dimensions backward and regularly check the final dimensions of the finished fabrics 1.

[0021] Due to the color or pattern changes 9, either only the cutting lines 10 or the seam lines 11 can be visually recognizable or both, as in Fig. 1shown. Omitting the marking 8 of the seam line 11 makes sense if it must not be visible in the garment at all. It is also possible to depict the seam line only on the later inner line. Accordingly, the markings for cutting lines 10 and seam lines 11 can also be woven into different surfaces 2, 2'.

[0022] Preferably, the fabric 1 is fully elastic in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7, as this is required for many sports suits. However, elastic fabrics 1 have different dimensions during production, i.e. during weaving. As soon as the fabric 1 is removed from the loom, it contracts in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 and loses its original mass. This is followed by further processes that can also cause a change in mass until the fabric 1 is fixed. For fully elastic fabrics 1, the masses of the pieces 4 of a pattern 4 must therefore be recalculated so that the final dimensions match the specifications, whereby the deviation must not exceed 3% and 1 cm from the specified dimensions of the final garment 3. Producing elastic fabrics 1 therefore requires greater expertise in measuring and weaving.It has proven helpful to weave control gauges 5 in the directions of the warp and weft threads 6, 7 in order to be able to check and adjust the dimensional accuracy of the finished fabric 1 during the setting process. This ensures that garments 3 manufactured from it correspond to the specified dimensions.

[0023] In particular, parts 4 produced in this way have the advantage that it is already known before weaving where a certain point in the fabric 1 will later be located in the garment 3. It is therefore possible to weave additional patterns or color changes 9 adapted to the pattern 4 directly into the fabric 1, whereby logos, text or graphic images 12 are created at predefined locations on the later, finished garment 3. Furthermore, it is possible in this way to mark functional locations, such as locations for sewing on buttons, buttonholes or other cutting lines along which cutting must later be carried out, with woven-in markings 8. All of this necessarily requires that the patterns 4 are woven into the fabric 1 at the same time.

[0024] The fabric 1 is made in one layer and has, at least partially, an area 13 with a single fabric layer 15 within the pattern 4.

[0025] According to the invention, however, cavities 14 adapted to the cutting pattern 4 are arranged or woven into one or more designated locations on the fabric 1. These cavities are created during weaving between the two surfaces 2, 2' by forming two separate, parallel fabric layers 15 in the fabric 1 using warp and weft threads 6, 7 that are not connected to one another in some areas. Although the cavities 14 are at least 3-5 square centimeters in size, they are generally larger, for example, hand-sized, the size of a pocket for inserting something, or channel-shaped. Each part 4 comprises at least one single-layer region 13 in a central area within the part 4, away from the cutting or sewing lines 10, 11, which comprises only a single fabric layer 15.This prevents, for example, the part 4 from being turned over, but also from being able to slip into or through a cavity for tightening 14, as mentioned in the context of the prior art.

[0026] Fig. 2 shows such a cavity 14, which is cut at the front, between two fabric layers 15, wherein the area around the cavity 14 is designed as a single-layer area 13. The dashed line in Fig. 2 and in further figures represents the dividing line between the single-layer region 13 and the cavity 14, which is not visible in the tissue.

[0027] Preferably, a marking 8 for a further cutting line 10 is woven into a fabric 1 on a fabric layer 15 of a cavity 14. In Fig. 3Such a marking 8 is shown on a pocket 17. By cutting along this marking 8, an opening 16 to the pocket 17 is created, to which a zipper or other fastener can be attached. However, it has also proven expedient to provide the surrounding area of ​​the opening 16 with only a welding surface 25, which holds the fabric 1 together and prevents fraying at the cutting line 10. This means that the open cut edge 20 does not need to be further processed, for example sewn. Particularly when it is an inside pocket, this has the advantage that nothing is visible from the outside, and no zipper pushes through, even if the area of ​​the pocket lies close to the body.

[0028] Such markings 8 can also be used to identify functional locations for further processing steps. For example, by making cuts in areas of, for example, channel- or ring-shaped cavities 14, additional free fabric edges 20 can be created within the fabric 1, to which additional parts 4 or a connecting part 23 can be sewn on one side of the fabric 1, i.e., on one of the surfaces 2, 2', without generating a seam 21 on the other side of the surface 2', 2.

[0029] The Figures 4a and 4b represent examples of cut-out parts 4, each comprising a cavity 14. In Fig. 4a For example, the front part of a jacket is shown, in Fig. 4b a part of a sleeve. In these examples, each of the cavities 14 is designed and arranged in the pattern 4 in such a way that it is in the subsequent garment 3, as in Fig. 9shown, after forming a corresponding opening 16, can be used as a pocket 17 integrated in the garment 3. The openings 16 can be created by cutting open one of the fabric layers 15. The pocket 17 in Fig. 4a is a breast pocket and is suitable for personal use. It can be accessed either from the inside or the outside. The pocket in Fig. 4b is arranged at the elbow and is suitable as a pocket 17 for inserting an insert 18. In Fig. 4b A protector 18 is inserted into the pocket 17. What's remarkable about these pockets 17 is that their contours aren't visible, and there are no seams that could be visible from the outside. Furthermore, no pockets need to be sewn on, which again saves effort. Thus, considerable cost savings can be achieved with garments 3 manufactured in this way.

[0030] As an alternative to the pockets 17 created between the double-layered fabric layers 15 by cutting open a cavity 14, pockets 17 can be attached on one side, as described above, by sewing them to a cut-open fabric layer 15 of a cavity 14, which creates a free fabric edge 20. Bulkier protectors 18, for example, can be inserted into such pockets 17.

[0031] According to the invention, the fabric 1 has a cavity 14 designed as a channel along a cutting line 10 of a part 4. In the embodiment according to Fig. 5 a cavity 14 is cut open at the cutting line 10 and forms two fabric edges 20 with open ends to which two seams 21 can be applied.

[0032] In the embodiment according to Fig., the cavity 14 is designed as a closed channel 22 in that a small amount of a single-layer region 13 is retained between the cutting line 10 and the cavity 14 in order to keep the channel 22 closed.

[0033] In Fig. 7 another part 4, for example a connecting part 23 or a zipper 24, is between the two fabric edges 20 as in Fig. 5 The fabric is inserted as described and sewn to them in such a way that only one seam 21 is visible on both surfaces 2, 2'. This is subsequently referred to as a clean hem 26 on both sides, since no seam protrudes on either side. Both sides look the same. To do this, the two ends of the fabric edges 20 are folded inward, the connecting piece 23, 24 is inserted between them, and the whole is connected with a seam 21.

[0034] In Fig. 8Another possibility for producing such a double-sided clean seam 26 is shown. For this purpose, a part 4 with a channel 22 in the seam area, as shown in Fig. 6 described, sewn to a connecting part 23, 24 by pressing the channel 22 together at the front and grabbing it on both sides over a fabric edge 20 of the connecting part 23, 24. This is then sewn together with a seam 21. This seam 21 also forms a clean seam 26 on both sides, which looks the same from both surfaces 2, 2'; there is no visible seam. Here, handling is somewhat easier because there are no open fabric edges in the area of ​​the channel 22 that could slip during sewing. In both variants according to the Figures 7 and 8 clean seams 26 are created on both sides. In both embodiments, the fabric 1 adjacent to the seams 26 is designed as a single-layer region (13).

[0035] In this way, it is possible to sew a connecting part 23, 24 onto a part 4, producing clean seams 26 on both sides. This allows a single-layer garment 3, as in Fig. 9 shown, in such a way that it can be worn on both sides, with clean seams 26 being visible on the outside on both sides. Even if the garment 3 is not turned, but always worn on the same side, this joining technique of the various parts 4 increases its quality. For example, a jacket can be dispensed with an inner lining without protruding seams becoming visible inside the jacket. It is also highly appreciated if no protruding seams are noticeable on the sleeves and in the shoulder and collar areas.

[0036] From such parts 4 of a pattern, for example, garments 3 such as suits for motorcycling with or without protectors 18 can be made, but also work clothing with or without cut-resistant inserts for carrying out work with a chainsaw, or protective clothing for security personnel.

[0037] The fabric 1 according to the invention is therefore suitable for a wide variety of applications. Although the effort required to weave complete pattern pieces 4 into a fabric 1 initially appears considerable, this opens up unimagined possibilities for incorporating additional functions into the fabric 1 that are directly and immediately tied to the respective pattern piece 4. This results in garments 3 that also make a flawless impression on the inside, eliminating the need for the production and attachment of an inner lining. Inscriptions and logos 12 can be applied during weaving, eliminating the need for further steps such as appliqué or printing. Pockets 17 can also be integrated without the need for a single seam. Pockets 17 attached to one side can also be attached to free fabric edges 20 without a seam being visible from the outside.

[0038] Such garments 3, as in Fig. 9The garments shown are suitable, for example, for athletes as sports, bicycle, motorcycle, outdoor, or hiking clothing, or for security personnel as protective clothing. They are cut from a single-layer fabric 1, which partially has two fabric layers 15 and features an integrated, woven pattern 4 with the dimensions of a given clothing size. Furthermore, the fabric 1 can be fully elastic in the direction of the warp and weft threads 6, 7.

[0039] Preferred garments 3 have cavities 14 configured as integrated pockets 17 for personal use or as pockets 17 provided with inserts 18, for example, protectors. The openings 16 of the pockets 17 can be sewn, sealed with a weldable surface 25, or provided with a zipper 24.

[0040] In particular, the invention described here allows garments 3 to be produced from single-layer fabric 1, which include seams 21 with a clean hem 26 on both sides and therefore do not protrude onto any of the surfaces 2, 2'. Therefore, both sides of the garment 3 can be worn on the outside, meaning no lining is required for the garment 3 to also look clean on the inside. List of reference symbols

[0041] 1Textile fabric 22' Surfaces 3Garment 4Pattern, part of a pattern 5Control scale 6Warp thread 7Weft thread 8Mark, identification for a functional area 9Color or pattern change 10Cut line 11Seam line 12Logo, text, illustration 13Single-layer area of ​​the fabric 14Cavity 15Fabric layer 16Opening 17Pocket 18Inset, protector 19Seam area for a hem 20Fabric edge, cut edge, edge of a connecting part 21Seam 22Channel for connecting part such as zipper or for inlay tape 23Connecting part 24Zipper 25Welding area 26Neat hem on both sides

Claims

1. Textile fabric (1) having a first and a second surface (2, 2') for producing a garment (3) in a predetermined body size, for example a sports garment, wherein a pattern (4) having a plurality of parts (4) for tailoring the garment (3) on one of the surfaces (2, 2') is visually recognisable, wherein the garment (3) can be created by cutting out and sewing together the parts (4) so that each of the parts (4) is orientated with one of its surfaces (2, 2') facing the body when worn and with the opposite surface (2', 2) facing away from the body when worn, wherein in the production process, due to the interweaving of the warp and weft threads (6, 7), markings (8) are formed on at least one of the surfaces (2, 2') by colour or pattern changes (9), which identify cut and / or seam lines (10, 11) of the individual parts (4) of the pattern (4), wherein the pattern (4) thus indicated deviates by less than 3% and less than 1 cm from the dimensional specification of the later garment (3) in the direction of both the warp and the weft threads (6, 7), wherein cavities (14) adapted to the pattern (4) are arranged at one or more intended locations, which are formed between the two surfaces (2, 2') during weaving, in that two layers of fabric (15) extending parallel to one another and separately from one another are formed by warp and weft threads (6, 7) which area-wise are not connected to one another, wherein each of the cavities (14) is respectively arranged between the inner side and the outer side of the later garment (3), characterised in that one of the cavities (14) is designed as a channel (22) close to a cut edge (10) of one of the parts (4) and a single-layer region (13) is retained between the cavity (14) and the cut line (10), which keeps the channel (22) closed even when the part (4) is cut out, wherein a connecting part (23), for example a zip (24) or a further part (4), can be sewn on through a seam (21) to form a both-sided clean hem (26) in that the channel (22), pressed together at the front, is arranged over a fabric edge (20) of the connecting part (23) on both sides.

2. Fabric (1) according to claim 1, characterised in that both the cut lines (10) and the seam lines (11) are visually recognisable.

3. Fabric (1) according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that it is elastic over its entire surface in the direction of the warp and weft threads (6, 7).

4. Fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that additional patterns or colour changes (9) adapted to the pattern (4) are woven in directly, which represent logos, texts or graphic images (12) at predefined locations of the later, finished garment (3) or identify markings (8) for functional locations or for further processing steps.

5. Fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in in central regions within the parts (4), far from the cut or seam lines (10, 11), at least partially a single-layer region (13) is formed.

6. Fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that one of the cavities (14) is designed and arranged in the pattern (4) in such a way that it can be used in the later garment (3) after a corresponding opening (16) has been formed as a pocket (17) integrated in the garment (3) for personal use or for inserting an insert (18), for example a protector.

7. Fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that one of the cavities (14) is designed as a channel (22) along a cut line (10) of one of the parts (4) and the cavity (14), when the part (4) is cut out, forms two fabric edges (20) there, to which two seams (21) can be attached or to which a connecting part (23), for example a zip (24) or a further part (4), can be attached through a seam to form a both-sided clean seam (26).

8. Fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that a marking (8) is woven into a fabric layer (15) of a cavity (14) on the corresponding surface (2) for a further cut line (10) which, when cut along it, creates an additional free fabric edge (20) in the middle of the fabric (1) on this surface (2, 2'), to which further parts (4) or a connecting piece (23) can be sewn, without thereby generating a seam (21) on the other surface (2', 2).

9. Garment (3), preferably sportswear, two-wheeled clothing, motorbike clothing, outdoor clothing, and / or hiking clothing, produced from a fabric (1) according to one of the preceding claims, wherein it is produced according to the pattern (4) and corresponds to the dimensions of a predetermined clothing size, wherein several parts (4) are cut out of the fabric (1) and sewn together in such a way that each of the parts (4) is orientated with one of its surfaces (2, 2') facing the body when worn and with the opposite surface (2', 2) facing away from the body when worn, wherein one of the cut-out and sewn-together parts (4) has the cavity (14) formed as a channel (22) near a cut edge (10), in which a single-layer region (13) remains after cutting out along the cut edge (10), characterised in that the garment has a both-sided clean hem (26), which is provided by sewing together a connecting part (23), for example a zip (24) or a further part (4) of the pattern (4), with the part (4) having the channel (22) with a seam (21), wherein the channel (22), pressed together frontally before sewing together, is arranged on both sides over a fabric edge (20) of the connecting part (23).

10. Garment according to claim 9, characterised in that it is fully elastic in the direction of the warp and weft threads (6, 7).

11. Garment according to claim 9 or 10 with reference back to claim 6, characterised in that it is equipped with one or more cavities (14) in which inserts (18), for example protectors, are inserted.

12. Garment according to one of claims 9 to 11 with reference back to claim 6, characterised in that the opening (16) of the pocket (17) is sewn, sealed with a welding area (25) or provided with a zip (24).

13. Garment according to one of claims 9 to 12, characterised in that it can be worn on both sides and only clean seams (26) are visible at all times, irrespective of which of the surfaces (2, 2') is worn so as to be visible from the outside.

14. Method of producing a garment (3) according to one of claims 9 to 13, comprising the steps of: 1) cutting a textile fabric (1) according to one of claims 1 to 9 along the visible colour or pattern changes (9); and 2) sewing together the parts obtained by the cutting.

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