Cosmetic composition comprising a 2-phase mixture

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition which comprises two phases but reaches a homogeneous stable phase when mixed, and which can be applied to the skin preferably in the form of a spray.

Description

[0001]Cosmetic composition comprising a 2-phase mixture Description The invention relates to a cosmetic composition which has two phases, but achieves a homogeneous, stable phase when mixed, and can preferably be applied to the skin via a spray. Weleda AG is researching beneficial natural plant substances for cosmetics using modern methods in conjunction with anthroposophical methods. The skin, and in particular the epidermis, as the barrier organ of the human organism, is particularly exposed to external influences (cold, chemicals, stress, environmental influences, etc.). This barrier function is maintained, among other things, by skin lipids. These epidermal lipids such as glycosphingolipids, ceramides, sterols and sterol esters, fatty acids, triglycerides, n-alkanes or various polar lipids are released during the keratinization process.In optimal skin condition, there is a balanced ratio of skin lipids and skin moisture. This balance determines important properties of the skin, such as penetration capacity, water-binding capacity, elasticity, regenerative capacity, and resistance to environmental influences and harmful substances of various kinds. Plant active ingredients, especially secondary metabolites, can have a positive effect on the skin. However, gentle products are required to care for and cleanse the skin. The present invention is therefore based on the object of providing a cosmetic composition for topical use so that valuable plant ingredients can advantageously penetrate the skin and an additional care effect is achieved. Such natural plant ingredients are usually present as secondary plant metabolites, which can be both water-soluble and fat-soluble.Surprisingly, the inventors were able to find that such natural plant ingredients, in particular plant ingredients as secondary plant metabolites, form a homogeneous phase in a 2-phase mixture after mixing and can be applied topically to the skin in a particularly advantageous way, and in this way plant ingredients can advantageously penetrate the skin. The object is therefore achieved by the technical teaching of at least one patent claim. In particular, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a.) more than 60 wt. % of an aqueous phase, comprising at least one salt with a content of 0.25 - 5 wt. % in the aqueous phase, b.) less than 40 wt. % of an oily phase, comprising at least one vegetable oil and fatty acid ester with a content of at least 80 wt. % in the oily phase, c.) wherein at least one lipophilic extract and / or hydrophilic extract of a plant extract or plant material comprising one or more plant ingredients with at least one secondary plant substance is or are contained in a.) and / or b.), and the content in each case in the aqueous phase or oily phase is a maximum of 10 wt.%, and optionally further auxiliaries and additives (hereinafter: composition according to the invention). Weight data refer to 100% of a cosmetic composition according to the invention in total composition or they refer to the respective phase a.) or b.). A 100% embodiment can be seen in Example 1. In Example 2, a distinction is made between aqueous phase and oily phase. Furthermore, c.) differs from a.) and b.) (supra) in its chemical composition.The aforementioned cosmetic composition can be converted into a homogeneous phase by supplying kinetic energy, such as mixing, in particular shaking or stirring, whereby the two phases mix. The homogeneous phase is stable or durable for several minutes or even hours. As soon as such homogeneity is at least partially achieved, application to the skin can take place. The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition according to the invention, wherein a homogeneous phase is advantageously obtained by mixing, and the lipo- and hydrophilic plant ingredients are dissolved with at least one secondary plant substance, which can be applied topically to the skin. The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition according to the invention, wherein a homogeneous phase is obtained by mixing, which can be applied to the skin.The composition according to the invention can be particularly advantageously distributed onto the skin after shaking using an atomizer or spray. The bottle can be at least partially transparent so that the homogeneous phase is visible to the eye after shaking. In a further embodiment of the invention, it is preferred that the aqueous phase comprises a soluble salt, preferably sodium chloride or sea salt, with a content of 0.25-5 wt.% in the aqueous phase, in particular 0.5-2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.5 wt.%. In a further embodiment of the invention, it is preferred that the ratio of fatty acid esters to vegetable oil in the oily phase is 1:1 to 1:3 (v / v), in particular 1:1 to 1:1.5 and 1:1.5 to 2:2.5 (v / v) with a content of at least 80 wt.% in the oily phase, in particular of at least 90 wt.% in the oily phase, particularly preferably 95-98 wt.%.The aforementioned phases according to the invention are sufficient for a suitable density difference between the phases, so that two phases form. In this way, a density gradient is created that separates the phases from one another. Furthermore, the salt as an electrolyte in the aqueous phase establishes sufficient polarity. Furthermore, the aqueous phase can contain at least one alcohol, preferably ethanol or glycerol. The alcohol content is 1-30 wt.%, in particular 10-25 wt.%. Di-, tri-, or tetrahydric alcohols are selected from the group consisting of ethanediol, glycerol, propanediol, erythritol, butanediol, pentanediol, and C1-C5 alcohols with 2, 3, 4, or 5 OH groups. However, glycerol is preferred according to the invention. In a further embodiment of the invention, it is preferred that the vegetable oil is present in the oily phase b.) at least 35 wt.%, in particular at least 40 wt.%.Vegetable oil, in the sense of this invention, means a tri- or diglyceride in which at least one fatty acid is mono- or polyunsaturated, especially those fatty acids with 14 to 26 carbon atoms, especially oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid. The vegetable oil is liquid at room temperature. Such native vegetable oils can contain further substituents, such as OH, NH2, etc. Such vegetable oils are obtained by various processes, such as pressing (cold pressing, hot pressing), extraction with solvents (heptane, petroleum ether, etc.), superfluid chromatography, etc.One or more vegetable oils within the meaning of this invention can be selected from the group including, but not limited to, açaí oil, algae oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babaçu oil, borage oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, hazelnut oil, hemp oil, jatropha oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, papaya oil, pistachio oil, pecan nut oil, perilla oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, castor oil, mustard oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, walnut oil, watermelon seed oil, grape seed oil, in particular a vegetable oil which contains at least one ester of oleic acid, linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid. Fatty acid ester in the sense of this invention means that a fatty acid is esterified with an alcohol, preferably in the form of medium-chain triglycerides (MCT) or MCT fats, in particular triglycerides containing medium-chain fatty acids.Medium-chain fatty acids include capric (C 6:0), caprylic (C 8:0), capric (C 10:0), and lauric acid (C 12:0). So-called caprylic / capric triglycerides are commercially available. MCT fats are obtained industrially by hydrolysis of coconut fat and palm kernel oil, fractionation of the medium-chain fatty acids, and subsequent esterification with glycerol. Such MCT fats and oils, which are liquid at room temperature, are known, for example, under the trade names Mygliol 812 from Sasol, Myritol 312 from Cognis, and Tegosoft CT from Evonik. Furthermore, fatty acid esters based on isoamyl alcohol (3-methyl-1-butanol) are preferred, preferably with C-12 laurate, C-16 palmitate, and C-18 stearate, i.e., isoamyl laurate, isoamyl palmitate, and isoamyl stearate. Other fatty acid esters are not excluded, especially those with C12 to C26 fatty acids, where the alcohol is methanol or ethanol.According to the invention, a lipophilic extract and / or hydrophilic extract of a plant extract or plant material containing plant constituents are those that contain or consist of secondary plant substances. Secondary plant substances, or secondary metabolites, are derived from products of anabolic and catabolic metabolism, in particular from carbohydrates and amino acids. Secondary plant substances according to the invention include, in particular, phenolic, isoprenoid, or alkaloid compounds, such as phenols, polyphenols, flavonoids, caffeic acid derivatives, xanthones, terpenes, steroids, and other natural substances. Such plant constituents can be contained in aqueous and / or ethanolic, or oily extracts / extracts from a plant extract or plant material, in particular from leaves, roots, seeds, and flowers. For example, such secondary plant substances can be present in essential plant oils (e.g., terpenes, etc.).Such plant materials can be selected from the group of plant genera Aloe, Althaea, Angelica, Arnica, Artemisia, Calendula, Cannabis, Capsicum, Carum, Citrus, Centella, Echinacea, Hedeara, Humulus, Iberis, Iris, Juglans, Lavendula, Lepidium, Matricaria, Melissa, Mentha, Basilicum (Ocimum), Passiflora, Pelargonium, Primula, Punica, Quercus, Rosmarinus, Rumex, Salix, Salvia, Sambucus, Strychnos, Thymus, Vaccinium, Valeriana, Vebena, Viola, Vitex, and Vitis. A lipophilic extract and / or hydrophilic extract of a plant extract or plant material is selected from the group of aqueous and / or ethanolic or oily extracts, and / or the plant material is selected from the group of leaves, roots, seeds, and flowers. Such oily extracts can preferably be rosemary oil, chamomile oil or calendula oil.In a further embodiment of the invention, it is preferred that at least one lipophilic extract and / or hydrophilic extract of a plant extract or plant material comprising one or more plant ingredients with at least one secondary plant substance is or are contained in phase a.) and / or phase b.), and the content in each case in the aqueous phase and / or oily phase is a maximum of 10 wt.%, or more than 0.1 wt.%, in particular more than 1 wt.%, a maximum of 6 wt.%. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can further contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are customarily used in such preparations, e.g. antioxidants, radical scavengers, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, plasticizers, or other customary components of a cosmetic formulation such as foam stabilizers, electrolytes, etc.The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can in particular contain at least one moisturizing agent, in particular betaines, in a content of 1-6 wt.%, in particular 2-4 wt.%. The following exemplary embodiments and figures serve to illustrate the invention without limiting the invention to these examples. Example 1: Exemplary composition of a composition according to the invention (total composition): Ingredient Function Weight (wt%) Water, purified 45 wt% (bulk) Glycerin 7 wt% Ethanol (96%) 7 wt% Betaine Moisturizing agent 3 wt% Sea salt, NaCl 1.5 wt% Sunflower oil Vegetable oil 14.4 wt% Jojoba oil Vegetable oil 3 wt% MCT fats (Caprylic fatty acid esters 15 wt% / Capric Triglycerides) Viola, Herba extract hydrophilic extract 1 wt% Rosemary oil, lipophilic extract 2 wt% Chamomile oil, Calendula oil, Parfum Fragrance 0.7 wt% Additive(s) Xanthan, 0.4 wt% Tocopherol,oa 100 wt% Example 2: a.) Example composition of an inventive composition of the aqueous phase: Ingredient Function Weight (wt%) Water, purified 69.7 wt% (bulk) Glycerin 11 wt% Ethanol (96%) 11 wt% Betaine 4.6 wt% Viola, herb extract hydrophilic 1.5 wt% extract Sea salt, NaCl 2.3 wt% Additive(s) Xanthan, etc. 0.2 wt% 100 wt% b.) Example composition of an inventive composition of the oily phase: Ingredient Function Weight (wt%) Sunflower oil Vegetable oil 40.7 wt% Jojoba oil Vegetable oil 8.5 wt% MCT fats (caprylic / fatty acid esters 42.4 wt% Capric triglycerides) Rosemary oil, lipophilic 5.6 wt% Chamomile oil, extract Calendula oil, perfume Fragrance 2.0 Wt% Additive(s) Xanthan, 0.8 wt% Tocopherol,oa 100 wt% or: Ingredient Function Weight (wt%) Sesame oil Vegetable oil 40.7 wt% Jojoba oil Vegetable oil 8.5 wt% MCT fats (caprylic / fatty acid esters 42.4 wt.% Capric Triglycerides) Rosemary oil, lipophilic 5.6 wt% Chamomile oil, extract of calendula oil, perfume Fragrance 2.0 wt% Additive(s) Xanthan, 0.8 wt% Tocopherol, oa 100 wt% or: Ingredient Function Weight (wt%) Sunflower oil Vegetable oil 40.7 wt% Safflower oil Vegetable oil 8.5 wt% MCT fats (Caprylic / fatty acid esters 42.4 wt% Capric Triglycerides) Rosemary oil, lipophilic 5.6 wt% Chamomile oil, extract of calendula oil, perfume Fragrance 2.0 wt% Additive(s) Xanthan, 0.8 wt% Tocopherol, oa 100 wt% or: Ingredient Function Weight (wt%) Sunflower oil Vegetable oil 40.7 wt% Safflower oil Vegetable oil 8.5 wt% Myristic acid esters Fatty acid esters 42.4 wt.% rosemary oil, lipophilic 5.6 wt.% chamomile oil, extract calendula oil, perfume fragrance 2.0 wt.% additive(s) xanthan, 0.8 wt.% tocopherol,oa100 wt% Example 3: Preparation of a composition according to the invention: Aqueous Phase 1: Mix water, glycerin, water-soluble extract (plant ingredients), and sea salt thoroughly. Then premix the solids and any additives and add them to Phase 1, stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Oily Phase 2: Mix the vegetable oils, fatty acid esters, and oil-soluble extracts (plant ingredients) until homogeneous. Add perfume and any additives if desired. Then, fill Phase 1 and Phase 2 into the (spray) bottle.

Claims

Patent claims 1. Cosmetic composition containing a 2-phase mixture with a.) more than 60 wt.% of an aqueous phase, comprising at least one salt with a content of 0.25 - 5 wt.% in the aqueous phase, b.) less than 40 wt.% of an oily phase, comprising at least one vegetable oil and fatty acid ester with a content of at least 80 wt.% in the oily phase, c.) wherein at least one lipophilic extract and / or hydrophilic extract of a plant extract or plant material comprising one or more plant ingredients with at least one secondary plant substance is or are contained in a.) and / or b.), and the content in each case in the aqueous phase or oily phase is a maximum of 10 wt.%, and optionally further auxiliaries and additives.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein mixing results in a homogeneous phase which can be applied to the skin. 3.Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aqueous phase a.) contains alcohol and is selected from the group ethanol, ethanediol, glycerin,. Propanediol, erythritol, butanediol, pentanediol, C1-C5 alcohols with 2, 3, 4 or 5 OH groups.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil according to b.) is selected from the group consisting of açaí oil, algae oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babaçu oil, borage oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, hazelnut oil, hemp oil, jatropha oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, papaya oil, pistachio oil, pecan oil, perilla oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, castor oil, mustard oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tung oil, walnut oil, watermelon seed oil, grape seed oil; or the vegetable oil according to b.) contains at least one ester of oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid ester according to b.) is selected from the group consisting of MCT fat, fatty acid esters based on an isoamyl alcohol, or triglyceride. 6.Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio of fatty acid ester to vegetable oil according to b.) is 1:3 (v / v), in particular 1:1.5 to 1.5:2 (v / v).

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil according to b.) is present at least 35% by weight, in particular at least 40% by weight.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims containing at least one or more plant ingredients according to claim 1 c.), wherein at least one secondary plant substance is present, selected from the group of phenolic, isoprenoid or alkaloid compounds, phenols, polyphenols, flavonoids, caffeic acid derivatives, xanthones, terpenes, steroids or from aqueous and / or ethanolic or oily extracts / extracts from a plant material.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the plant extract is selected from the group consisting of Aloe, Althaea, Angelica, Arnica, Artemisia, Calendula, Cannabis, Capsicum, Carum, Citrus, Centella, Echinacea, Hedeara, Humulus, Iberis, Iris, Juglans, Lavendula, Lepidium, Matricaria, Melissa, Mentha, Basilicum (Ocimum), Passiflora, Pelargonium, Primula, Punica, Quercus, Rosmarinus, Rumex, Salix, Salvia, Sambucus, Strychnos, Thymus, Vaccinium, Valeriana, Vebena, Viola, Vitex, and Vitis. 10.Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one lipophilic extract and / or hydrophilic extract of a plant extract or plant material comprising one or more plant ingredients with at least one secondary plant substance is or are contained in a.) and / or b.), and the content in each case in the aqueous phase or oily phase is a maximum of 5 wt.%.

11. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic extract and / or hydrophilic extract of a plant extract or. Plant material is selected from the group of aqueous and / or ethanolic extracts, or oily extracts and / or the plant material is selected from the group of leaves, roots, seeds, flowers.

12. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising in the aqueous phase: Ingredient Weight (wt%) Water, purified (bulk) 69.7 wt% Glycerin 11 wt% Ethanol (96%) 11 wt% Betaine 4.6 wt% Viola, Herba extract 1.5 wt% Sea salt, NaCl 2.3 wt% Additive(s) 0.2 wt% in the oily phase: Ingredient Weight (wt%) Sunflower oil 40.7 wt% Jojoba oil 8.5 wt% MCT fats 42.4 wt% (Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides) Rosemary oil, Chamomile oil, 5.6 wt% Calendula oil, Parfum 2.0 wt% Additive(s) 0.8 wt% 13. Spray or atomizer containing a cosmetic Composition according to one of the preceding claims.

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