Buckle footwear and relevant production process
The elastic insert and integrated flap system in buckle footwear addresses the impracticality of manual strap operation, providing a comfortable and aesthetically appealing solution for easy wearing and removal.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- SANTONI SPA
- Filing Date
- 2025-10-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-06
AI Technical Summary
Brogue-style buckle footwear requires manual unfastening and fastening of straps to open and close the flap, making it impractical, functional, and aesthetically less appealing.
Incorporation of an elastic insert and a flap with integrated straps that automatically adjust to allow easy wearing and removal by expanding and contracting the inlet, eliminating the need for manual strap operation.
Enables practical, functional, and aesthetically pleasing buckle footwear that is comfortable and versatile, allowing easy donning and doffing without manual strap manipulation.
Smart Images

Figure IMGAF001_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a buckle footwear and, in particular, to a brogue-style footwear.
[0002] In the footwear industry, shoes have long been known which, instead of laces, use a flap attached to a strap that is engaged in a buckle, in such a way that the flap covers the instep of the foot.
[0003] A brogue-style footwear has an upper comprising: a vamp forming a front part of the upper, and a quarter forming a rear part of the upper.
[0004] The quarter has a U-shape with two edges, so as to define an opening for inserting or extracting the foot.
[0005] In a brogue-style laced footwear, the edges of the quarter have holes for the laces to pass through.
[0006] In a brogue-style buckle footwear, a flap with one or two straps is attached to one edge of the quarter and one or two buckles are attached to the other edge of the quarter. In this way, the straps are engaged in the buckles and the flap covers the instep of the foot.
[0007] A brogue-style buckle footwear is impaired by some functional drawbacks.
[0008] In fact, in order to wear the footwear, a user must unfasten the straps from their respective buckles to open the flap and enlarge the inlet of the footwear, in such a way to insert the foot. After inserting the foot, the user must fasten the straps to the buckles to close the flap over the instep of the foot.
[0009] Similarly, in order to take off the footwear, a user must manually unfasten the straps from the buckles and open the flap, expanding the inlet of the footwear.
[0010] The purpose of the present invention is to eliminate the drawbacks of the prior art by providing a buckle footwear that is practical, functional, and suitable for being worn and taken off without having to manually fasten / unfasten the strap in the buckle.
[0011] Another purpose is to provide a buckle footwear that is versatile and at the same time comfortable.
[0012] Yet another purpose is to provide such a buckle footwear that is aesthetically pleasing with an appearance similar to a typical brogue-style footwear.
[0013] These purposes are achieved in accordance with the invention with the characteristics of the attached independent claims.
[0014] Advantageous embodiments of the invention appear from the dependent claims.
[0015] Further features of the invention will become clearer from the following detailed description, which refers to a merely exemplary and therefore nonlimiting embodiment illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein: Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the footwear according to the invention, with a flap in raised position; Fig. 1A is a perspective view of the footwear of Fig. 1, wherein the flap and the elastic insert have been removed; Fig. 2 is the same view as Fig. 1, but with the flap in lowered position and the straps engaged in the buckles; Fig. 3 is the same view as Fig. 2, but seen from a different angle; Fig. 4 is an exploded view illustrating quarter, vamp, elastic insert, and flap with straps of the footwear according to the invention; Fig. 5 is a bottom view of the upper (interior of the upper) after a first step of the process, wherein the quarter has been attached to the vamp; Figs. 6 and 6A are respectively a bottom view and a top view after a second step of the process in which an elastic insert has been attached to the upper; Fig. 7 is a bottom view after a third step of the process in which a lining is applied to an inner surface of the upper; Figs. 8 and 8A are respectively a bottom view and a top view after a fourth step of the process in which a part of the lining has been trimmed; Fig. 9 is a top view after a fifth step of the process in which the flap has been attached to the elastic insert; Fig. 10 is a sectional view taken along the section plane X-X of Fig. 9, in which the elastic insert is not expanded; Fig. 11 is the same view as Fig. 10, in which the elastic insert is expanded.
[0016] With the aid of the Figures, a footwear according to the invention, which is generally indicated with reference numeral 100, is described.
[0017] With reference to Fig. 1, the footwear (100) comprises a sole (S) and an upper (1). The upper (1) has an inlet (10) that defines an opening wherein a user's foot is inserted.
[0018] With reference to Fig. 1A, the upper (1) has an upper window (11) communicating with the inlet (10). The upper window (11) is located at the instep of the foot. The upper window (11) is defined by a perimeter border (12) of the upper having a substantially U-shape.
[0019] Returning to Fig. 1, an elastic insert (4) is attached to the upper (1) as to close the upper window (11). The elastic insert (4) can be attached to the perimeter border (12) of the upper window of the upper, for example, by means of sewing.
[0020] The elastic insert (4) can be elastically expanded to widen the inlet (10) to allow the foot to be inserted. Once the foot is inserted into the footwear (100), the elastic insert elastically returns to its initial condition, so that the inlet (10) surrounds the user's ankle.
[0021] At least one buckle (5) is mounted on an elastic element (6) joined to the upper (1). The buckle (5) is disposed in lateral position relative to the upper window (11) on one side of the upper facing an outer side of the foot. The buckle (5) comprises: a rectangular frame (50), a crosspiece (51), and a fastening pin (52).
[0022] The elastic element (6) comprises an elastic fabric closed in a loop around the crosspiece (51) of the buckle. In such a way, the elastic element (6) can be elastically expanded, allowing the buckle (5) to move closer to the elastic insert (4).
[0023] Fig. 1 shows two buckles (5), but obviously only one buckle may be provided.
[0024] A flap (7) is attached to the elastic insert (4) on one side of the elastic insert facing an inner side of the foot, i.e., a side of the elastic insert in distal position from the buckle (5). The flap (7) can be attached to the elastic insert (4) by means of sewing.
[0025] The flap (7) comprises: a body (70) and at least one strap (71) protruding laterally from the body (70) of the flap to be engaged in the buckle (5).
[0026] The body (70) of the flap has a substantially rectangular shape and is suitable for overlapping and covering the elastic insert (4).
[0027] The strap (71) has holes (72) suitable for being engaged by the fastening pin (52) of the buckle. If two buckles (5) are provided, the flap (7) comprises two straps (71) arranged substantially in parallel position to each other.
[0028] It should be noted that the flap (7) can remain always closed, with the strap (71) engaged in the respective buckle (5), as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. In such a case, the body (70) of the flap covers the elastic insert (4), which is therefore not visible.
[0029] In order to wear the footwear (100), the user does not need to open the flap (7); in fact, when the user's foot is inserted into the inlet (10), the elastic insert (4) is expanded, allowing the inlet (10) to widen so that the foot can be inserted. Such a widening of the inlet (10) is also facilitated by an expansion of the elastic element (6) that supports the buckle (5). In fact, the strap (71) of the flap (7) is attached to the buckle (5), and an expansion of the elastic insert (4) causes a displacement of the flap (7) that is attached to the elastic insert.
[0030] Once the user's foot is positioned inside the footwear (100), the elastic insert (4) returns to its initial position and the inlet (10) gets narrower, surrounding the user's ankle.
[0031] Fig. 4 illustrates the case in which the footwear (100) is a brogue-style footwear, wherein the upper (1) comprises: a vamp (2) that forms a front part of the upper, and a quarter (3) that forms a rear part of the upper.
[0032] The vamp (2) and the quarter (3) are preferably made of leather.
[0033] The vamp (2) has a body (20) from which a first edge (21) and a second edge (22) protrude posteriorly, so that said upper window (11) is located between the first edge (21) and the second edge (22) of the vamp.
[0034] The first edge (21) is suitable for facing the outer side of the foot. The second edge (22) is suitable for facing the inner side of the foot.
[0035] At least one slot (23) is formed in the first edge (21) to accommodate the elastic element (6) that supports the buckle (5).
[0036] The upper window (11) has a U-shape and is defined between an inner border (24) of the first edge, a rear border (25) of the body (20) of the vamp, and an inner border (26) of the second edge.
[0037] In the rear border (25) of the body of the vamp there is a first cusp (25a) facing the upper window (11) so as to define a first seat (27) with the inner border (24) of the first edge. In the inner edge (26) of the second edge there is a second cusp (26a) facing the upper window (11) so as to define a second seat (28) with the inner border (26) of the second edge.
[0038] Between the second cusp (26a) and the rear border (25) of the body of the vamp there is a rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp.
[0039] The quarter (3) has a body (30) comprising a U-shaped curved strip so as to define the inlet (10). A first edge (31) and a second edge (32) protrude anteriorly from the body (30) of the quarter.
[0040] The first edge (31) is suitable for facing the outer side of the foot. The second edge (32) is suitable for facing the inner side of the foot. The first edge (31) is longer than the second edge (32).
[0041] The first edge (31) has an outer border (33) and the second edge (32) has an outer border (34).
[0042] The first edge (31) of the quarter is disposed in the first seat (27) of the vamp, so that the outer border (33) of the first edge of the quarter is disposed on the inner border (24) of the first edge of the vamp. The second edge (32) of the quarter is disposed in the second seat (28) of the vamp, so that the outer border (34) of the second edge of the quarter is disposed on the inner border (26) of the second edge of the vamp, as shown in Fig. 5.
[0043] With reference to Fig. 5, the quarter (3) is attached to the vamp (2) by means of: a first seam (C1) made on the outer border (33) of the first edge of the quarter and on the inner border (24) of the first edge of the vamp; and a second seam (C2) made on the outer border (34) of the second edge of the quarter and on the inner border (26) of the second edge of the vamp.
[0044] The first and second seams (C1, C2) are made from the inside of the footwear, i.e., from a lower surface of the upper, so that they are not visible.
[0045] It should be noted that, once the quarter (3) is attached to the vamp (2), the upper window (11) of the upper (1) is defined between an inner border (35) of the first edge of the quarter, the rear border (25) of the body of the vamp, the rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp, and the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter.
[0046] Returning to Fig. 4, the elastic insert (4) has a perimeter having the same shape as the upper window (11), but larger dimensions than the perimeter of the upper window (11). The elastic insert (4) comprises a body (40) having a perimeter border comprising: a rear rectilinear border (41), a first lateral border (42) that is partially curved like the inner border (35) of the first edge of the quarter, a front border (43) that is partially curved like the rear border (25) of the body of the vamp, and a second lateral border (44) that is partially curved.
[0047] The second lateral border (44) of the elastic insert comprises: a first rectilinear section (45) like the rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp, and a second curved section (46) like the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter.
[0048] With reference to Figs. 6 and 6A, after sewing the quarter (3) to the vamp (2), the elastic insert (4) is disposed on the lower surface of the upper (1), in correspondence with the upper window (11) of the upper. Since the perimeter of the elastic insert (4) is greater than the perimeter of the upper window (11) of the upper, the perimeter border of the elastic insert is located on the upper.
[0049] Then the elastic insert (4) is attached to the upper by means of a first stitch line (L1) (shown as a dotted line) with a substantially U-shaped profile, which crosses the elastic insert (4) and extends over the inner border (35) of the first edge of the quarter, on the rear border (25) of the body of the vamp, on the rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp, and on the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter.
[0050] Obviously, the rear border (41) of the elastic insert is not sewn, as there is no upper (1) under the rear border (41) of the elastic insert. In this way, the inlet (10) is defined by an inner border (37) of the body (30) of the quarter, which has a curved shape, and by the rear border (41) of the elastic insert.
[0051] With reference to Fig. 7, a lining (8) (shown as a dotted line) is applied to a lower surface of the upper (1). The lining (8) covers the entire vamp (2) and only the edges (31, 32) of the quarter. The lining (8) is not arranged on the body (30) of the quarter. The lining (8) can be applied to the upper by means of gluing.
[0052] The lining (8) has a cutout (80) with a perimeter having the same shape as the perimeter of the elastic insert (4), but smaller dimensions.
[0053] Then the lining (8) is attached to the elastic insert (4) by means of a second stitch line (L2) with a substantially U-shaped profile, which follows a perimeter of the elastic insert (4), with the exception of the rear border (41) of the elastic insert.
[0054] With reference to Fig. 8A, the second stitch line (L2) is more internal than the first stitch line (L1), precisely because the lining (8) is sewn only to the elastic insert (4) and not to the upper (1).
[0055] Returning to Fig. 7, in internal position with respect to the second stitch line (L2), a perimeter trim (81) of the lining is generated, which can be trimmed and removed.
[0056] Fig. 8 shows the upper (1) with the elastic insert (4) and the lining (8) after the perimeter trim (81) of the lining has been removed.
[0057] As shown in Fig. 8A, the first stitch line (L1) that attaches the elastic insert (4) to the upper (1) is more external than the second stitch line (L2) that attaches the lining (8) to the elastic insert (4).
[0058] With reference to Fig. 4, the body (70) of the flap has a first side (73) from which the strap (71) protrudes and a second side (74) opposite the first side (73).
[0059] The second side (74) of the body of the flap comprises: a first rectilinear section (75) like the rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp, and a second curved section (76) like the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter.
[0060] With reference to Fig. 9, the body (70) of the flap is arranged on the elastic insert (4) in such a way that the first rectilinear section (75) and the second curved section (76) of the second side of the body of the flap are close to each other, respectively in correspondence of the rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp and of the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter.
[0061] The flap (7) is attached to the elastic insert (4) by means of a third stitch line (L3) which crosses the flap and the elastic insert near the first rectilinear section (75) and the second curved section (76) of the second side of the body of the flap. The third stitch line (L3) is made from the inside of the footwear so that it is not visible from the outside.
[0062] Fig. 10 shows a section of the footwear in a normal condition, wherein the elastic insert (4) is not expanded. Fig. 10 clearly illustrates: the first stitch line (L1) that attaches the elastic insert (4) to the second edge (32) of the quarter, the second stitch line (L2) that attaches the lining (8) to the elastic insert (4), and the third stitch line (L3) that attaches the flap (7) to the elastic insert.
[0063] Under normal conditions, the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter is very close to the second curved section (76) of the second side of the body of the flap. A first distance (D1) is provided between the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter and the second curved section (76) of the second side of the flap.
[0064] Fig. 11 illustrates a section of the footwear in a condition in which the elastic insert (4) is expanded as the user's foot is inserted into the footwear. In such a case, between the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter and the second curved section (76) of the second side of the flap there is a second distance (D2) that is visibly greater than the first distance (D1), according to the elongation of the elastic element, sufficient to widen the inlet (10) of the footwear for inserting the foot into the footwear.
[0065] Finally, the upper (1), to which the elastic insert (4), the buckle (5), the flap (7), and the lining (8) have been attached, is assembled on the sole (S) to obtain the footwear (100) according to the invention.
Claims
1. Footwear (100) comprising: - a sole (S), - an upper (1) having an inlet (10) that defines an opening wherein a user's foot is inserted, and an upper window (11) communicating with the inlet (10) and suitable for being positioned on the instep of the foot, - an elastic insert (4) attached to the upper (1) so as to close the upper window (11) of the upper, leaving the inlet (10) open, - at least one buckle (5) attached to the upper (1) and arranged laterally to the upper window (11) of the upper on one side of the upper facing an outer side of the foot, and - a flap (7) attached to the elastic insert (4) on one side of the elastic insert facing an inner side of the foot; said flap (7) comprising a body (70) and at least one strap (71) protruding laterally from the body (70) of the flap to engage in the buckle (5).
2. The footwear (100) according to claim 1, wherein said upper window (11) is defined by a perimeter border (12) of the upper having a substantially U-shaped profile, and said elastic insert (4) is attached to the upper (1) by means of sewing along a first stitch line (L1) close to the perimeter border (12) of the upper window of the upper.
3. The footwear (100) according to claim 2, wherein said footwear comprises a lining (8) covering an inner surface of the upper; said lining (8) being sewn to said elastic insert by means of a second stitch line (L2) close to and more internal than said first stitch line (L1).
4. The footwear (100) according to claim 3, wherein said flap is attached to said elastic insert (4) by means of sewing along a third stitch line (L3) in a more internal position than said second stitch line (L2).
5. The footwear (100) according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said footwear comprises an elastic element (6) that joins said buckle (5) to the upper (1).
6. The footwear (100) according to claim 5, wherein said buckle (5) comprises a rectangular frame (50), a crosspiece (51), and a fastening pin (52); and said elastic element (6) comprises an elastic fabric closed in a loop around the crosspiece (51) of the buckle.
7. The footwear (100) according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said footwear comprises two buckles (5) and said flap comprises two straps (71) arranged in parallel position to each other.
8. The footwear (100) according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said upper (1) is made of leather.
9. The footwear (100) according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said upper (1) comprises: - a vamp (2) forming a front part of the upper, and - a quarter (3) forming a rear part of the upper.
10. The footwear (100) according to claim 9, wherein the vamp (2) has a body (20) from which a first edge (21) and a second edge (22) protrude rearwardly; the body has a rear border (25) and the first and second edge (21, 22) have respective inner borders (24, 26); in the rear border (25) of the body of the vamp there is a first cusp (25a) which defines a first seat (27) with the inner border (24) of the first edge; in the inner border (26) of the second edge there is a second cusp (26a) which defines a second seat (28) with the inner border (26) of the second edge, and between the second cusp (26a) and the rear border (25) of the body of the vamp there is a rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp; said quarter (3) has a body (30) comprising a U-shaped curved strip so as to define the inlet (10) and a first edge (31) and a second edge (32) which protrude anteriorly from the body (30) of the quarter; the first and second edges (31, 32) having respective outer borders (33, 34); wherein the first edge (31) of the quarter is arranged in the first seat (27) of the vamp, so that the outer border (33) of the first edge of the quarter is positioned on the inner border (24) of the first edge of the vamp, and the second edge (32) of the quarter is positioned in the second seat (28) of the vamp, so that the outer border (34) of the second edge of the quarter is positioned on the inner border (26) of the second edge of the vamp.
11. The footwear (100) according to claim 10, wherein the quarter (3) is attached to the vamp (2) by means of: - a first seam (C1) made on the outer border (33) of the first edge of the quarter and on the inner border (24) of the first edge of the vamp; and - a second seam (C2) made on the outer border (34) of the second edge of the quarter and on the inner border (26) of the second edge of the vamp.
12. The footwear (100) according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the body (70) of the flap has a first side (73) from which the strap (71) protrudes, and a second side (74) opposite the first side (73); the second side (74) of the body of the flap comprising: - a first rectilinear section (75) like the rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp, and - a second curved section (76) like the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter; the body (70) of the flap is arranged on the elastic insert (4) so that the first rectilinear section (75) and the second curved section (76) of the second side of the body of the flap are located close to and in correspondence with, respectively, the rectilinear section (29) of the inner border of the second edge of the vamp and the inner border (36) of the second edge of the quarter; and the flap (7) is attached to the elastic insert (4) by means of said third stitch line (L3) which crosses the flap and the elastic insert near the first rectilinear section (75) and the second curved section (76) of the second side of the body of the flap.
13. Production process of a footwear (100) comprising the following steps: - providing an upper (1) having an inlet (10) that defines an opening wherein a user's foot is inserted, and an upper window (11) communicating with the inlet (10) and suitable for being disposed in correspondence with an instep of the foot, - attaching an elastic insert (4) to the upper (1) so as to close the upper window (11) of the upper, leaving the inlet (10) open, - attaching at least one buckle (5) to the upper (1); wherein the buckle is disposed laterally to the upper window (11) of the upper on one side of the upper facing an outer side of the foot, and - attaching a flap (7) to the elastic insert (4) on one side of the elastic insert facing an inner side of the foot; said flap (7) comprising a body (70) and at least one strap (71) protruding laterally from the body (70) of the flap to engage in the buckle (5); - assembling the upper (1) on a sole (S).
14. The process according to claim 13, wherein said step of attaching the elastic insert (4) to the upper (1) is performed by means of sewing along a first stitch line (L1) close to a perimeter border (12) of the upper window of the upper.
15. The process according to claim 13 or 14, also comprising a step of attaching a lining (8) to a lower surface of said upper (1).
16. The process according to claim 15, wherein said step of attaching the lining (8) to the upper (1) provides for sewing the lining (8) to said elastic insert (4) along a second stitch line (L2) close to and more internal than said first stitch line (L1).
17. The process according to claim 16, wherein said step of attaching said flap (7) to said elastic insert (4) is performed by means of sewing along a third stitch line (L3) in a more internal position than said second stitch line (L2).
Citation Information
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