USE OF PHYTOSTEROLS
Phytosterols combined with fatty alcohols restore and protect the skin microbiota, addressing disruptions caused by aggressive agents in cosmetic products, improving skin radiance and reducing imperfections.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2018058219
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2018-09-13
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-12
- Estimated Expiration
- 2038-09-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic and hygiene products containing aggressive agents disrupt the skin microbiota, leading to unsightly and uncomfortable manifestations such as dry skin, dandruff, skin desquamation, and skin tone imperfections, without effectively addressing the balance of commensal and pathogenic bacteria.
The use of phytosterols, preferably from rapeseed oil, combined with fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol, helps maintain and restore the balance of commensal and mutualistic skin bacteria while reducing the proliferation of pathogenic bacteria, by applying them topically in compositions like creams, lotions, and shampoos.
Phytosterols effectively restore and protect the skin microbiota, enhancing skin radiance and tolerance to aggressive agents, reducing skin imperfections and discomfort, and maintaining a healthy skin appearance.
Abstract
Description
25 to 60% campesterol, preferably 25% to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols 5 to 25% brassicasterol, preferably 7 to 18%, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols. Phytosterols can be used as is according to the invention. In an advantageous manner, the phytosterols according to the invention are mixed with a fatty alcohol. In an advantageous manner, the phytosterols according to the invention are combined with at least one fatty alcohol, as described in patent application DE1995125822A1 (Henkel). This has the advantage of lowering the melting point of the phytosterols. The fatty alcohol has the formula RI-OH, where RI designates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group at C6-22, containing 0, 1, 2, or 3 double bonds. Preferably, the weight ratio of phytosterols to fatty alcohol is between 40 / 60 and 60 / 40, preferably between 45 / 55 and 55 / 45, and most preferably 50 / 50. Preferably, the fatty alcohol is chosen from: caprylic alcohol, hexanol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alcohol is cetearyl alcohol (INCI: cetearyl alcohol) and is added at a weight ratio of 1 / 1 to phytosterols. The fatty alcohol / phytosterol mixture according to the invention is preferably heated above the melting point and atomized under a flow of cold air (priling). According to the invention, "skin microbiota" means commensal and mutualistic skin bacteria. Skin commensal and mutualistic bacteria are selected from among those: from the Phylum Actinobacteria including the Corynebacterium family, particularly the genus Corynebacterium, bacteria of the Micrococcaceae family, particularly the genera Micrococcus and / or Kocuria, bacteria of the Propionibacteriaceae family with the genus propionibacterium, bacteria of the Brevibacteriaceae family, in particular the Brevibacterium genus. The bacteria of the Phylum Proteobacteria including those of the family Rhodobacteriaceae in particular the genera Paracoccus and / or Amaricoccus, those of the family Acetobacteraceae in particular the genus Roseomonas, of the family Caulobacteraceae in particular the genus Brevundimonas, of the family Moraxellaceae in particular the genera Enhydrobacter and / or Acinetobacter. from the Phylum Firmicutes with bacteria of the family Staphylococcus with the genus Staphylococcus in particular Staphylococcus hominis, S. warneri, S. capitis, S. epidermidis, preferentially Staphylococcus epidermidis, those of the family Bacilliaceae with the genus Bacillus, and those of the Lactobacilliaceae in particular the genus Lactobacillus. Preferably, commensal and mutualistic skin bacteria are chosen from the genus Corynebacterium, the genus Micrococcus, the genus Kocuria, the genus propionibacterium, the genus Brevibacterium, the genus Paracoccus, the genus Amaricoccus, the genus Roseomonas, the genus Brevundimonas, the genus Enhydrobacter, the genus Acinetobacter, Staphylococcus hominis, S. warneri, S. capitis, S. epidermidis, preferably Staphylococcus epidermidis, the genus Bacillus, the genus Lactobacillus and their mixtures. Opportunistic skin pathogens are selected from among the following: -from the Phylum of Proteobacteria, of the family Enterobacteriaceae, in particular the genus Pantoea, and / or of the family Pseudomonaceae, in particular the genus Pseudomonas. - from the phylum Firmicutes with the family Staphylococcus, in particular the genus Staphylococcus, in particular Staphylococcus aureus, and with the family Streptococcaceae, in particular Streptococcus pyogenes. - from the phylum Actynobacteria, including the family Proprionibacteriaceae, in particular Propionibacterium acnes, Preferably, the bacteria considered pathogenic to the skin are selected from the genera Pantoea, Pseudomonas, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, and Propionibacterium acnes. Specifically, the bacteria considered pathogenic to the skin are Staphylococcus aureus and / or Propionibacterium acnes. The term "protecting and / or restoring the skin microbiota" means maintaining constant and / or increasing the content of one or more strains of commensal and mutualistic skin bacteria and / or preventing the proliferation and / or decreasing the content of pathogenic opportunistic bacteria. Several methods can be used to measure the concentration of bacterial strains on the skin, including colony counting, in vitro measurement by optical density after retrieval of samples containing the strains, or PCR. Advantageously, bacterial concentration is measured in vitro by optical density after retrieval of samples containing the strains. The measurement method can also include the extraction of microbial DNA by a dual mechanical and chemical action, its quantification by fluorescence, and then its analysis by meta-sequencing of a 16S ribosomal RNA fragment as shown in Example 2. This measurement is performed on samples treated with the phytosterols according to the invention, with or without a skin microbiota-aggressive agent. The protection and / or restoration of the skin microbiota can be measured by concomitant or sequential application of an aggressive agent to the skin microbiota, preferably Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) in particular as described in example 2. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of phytosterols, preferably phytosterols from vegetable oil, preferably phytosterols from rapeseed oil, in particular phytosterols extracted from rapeseed oil, to prevent and / or reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of alteration of the skin microbiota. The term "unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of non-pathological alteration of the skin microbiota" refers to unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations due to non-pathological dysbiosis of the skin microbiota, in particular dry skin, including dandruff, skin desquamation, chapping and / or cracking, skin roughness, decreased or lost skin resilience, skin tone imperfections, blackhead formation, development of odor, and hair loss. Phytosterols according to the invention can therefore prevent and / or reduce skin tone imperfections. For the purposes of this invention, "preventing and / or reducing skin tone imperfections" means preventing and / or reducing redness or irregularities of the skin and / or evening out the complexion so as to make the skin less dull, brighter, and more even, and / or reducing the redness of the skin and / or increasing the skin's radiance, and / or giving it a luminous, radiant, healthy, and / or nourished appearance, a healthy glow. Indeed, a radiant complexion reflects the skin's good health. Preferably, the skin tone imperfections are chosen from among dullness, lack of radiance, and / or redness. Again, preferably, they are chosen from among dullness and / or redness. Skin tone radiance and / or luminosity can be measured, for example, by chromametry or image analysis. This latter in vivo measurement method involves taking high-resolution photographs in a specific configuration. Cross-polarized photographs of the faces of volunteers taken at 45° before and after application of the tested product. Based on these digital photographs, image analysis allows the extraction and quantification of specific parameters (e.g., L*, a*, b*, C, h°) related to skin color, brightness, homogeneity, and texture. The term "aggressive agent of the skin microbiota" refers to climatic variations such as extreme temperature fluctuations (hot, cold), air conditioning, wind, UV radiation, pollution, and pathogens, particularly fungi such as Malassezia. Preferably, it refers to chemical compounds that are aggressive to the microbiota and are found in products that come into contact with the skin, such as topical or oral medical treatments (including antibiotics and disinfectants), hygiene products, and cosmetics (including makeup). Preferably, aggressive agents of the skin microbiota are not hair treatment agents such as relaxers. Preferably, the aggressive agent affecting the skin microbiota, particularly that contained in compositions in contact with the skin, is chosen from the group consisting of: Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate; MIPA-Laureth Sulfate (Monoisopropanolamine-Laureth Sulfate) ; Laureth-4 ; Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ; Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Laureth 8-Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate, Sodium Oleth Sulfate, Magnésium Laureth Sulfate, Monoéthanolamine Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Magnésium Laureth 8-Sulfate, Magnésium Oleth Sulfate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, TEA-Lauryl Sulfate (Triéthanolamine Laurylsulfate) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Coco-Bétaine Disodium Cocoamphodi acétate Cocamidopropyl Bétaine Sodium Lauroamphoacétate Sodium Cocoamphoacétate Cocamide MEA (Cocamide Monoéthanolamine) Cocamide DEA (Cocamide Diethanolamine) Cocamide MIPA (Cocamide Monoisopropanolamine) Lauramide DEA (Lauramide Diethanolamine) Oleamide DEA (Oleamide Diethanolamine) Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Lauryl Glucoside Decyl Glucoside Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside Coco-Glucoside Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate and their mixtures. Advantageously, this is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. The use of phytosterols according to the invention is advantageous for increasing the skin's tolerance to aggressive agents of the skin microbiota. For the purposes of the present invention, "cosmetic use" means a non-therapeutic, non-pharmaceutical use of phytosterols according to the invention, preferably on healthy skin, in particular a healthy scalp, and / or healthy hair, in particular a use intended for all or part of the skin, preferably of the scalp and / or to an area of skin, preferably of the scalp said to be "healthy", in particular to an area of "healthy" skin and / or an area of "healthy" scalp. For the purposes of the present invention, a part of the skin, preferably of the scalp and / or an area of skin, preferably of the scalp, referred to as "healthy" means a part of the skin, preferably of the scalp and / or an area of skin, preferably of the scalp, qualified as non-pathological by a dermatologist, that is to say, which does not present any infection, inflammation, scar, disease or skin condition such as folliculitis, candidiasis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, pathologies related to melanogenesis such as vitiligo, eczema, acne, actinic keratosis, carcinoma, melanoma, boil or dermatitis, in particular seborrheic, alopecia or wounds or injuries.In particular, a part of the skin, preferably of the scalp and / or an area of skin, preferably of the scalp, described as "healthy" means a part of the skin, preferably of the scalp and / or an area of skin, preferably of the scalp, described as "normal" by a doctor, particularly a dermatologist, that is to say, made up of "normal" cells, that is to say, non-pathological, more particularly non-cancerous cells. Thus, unless otherwise indicated, "normal" skin means skin that does not present any pathology. According to the invention, phytosterols according to the invention can be used alone as an active ingredient or in combination with a fatty alcohol, preferably cetearyl alcohol and / or in a composition intended to be in contact with the skin, such as a detergent, hygiene and / or cosmetic composition, preferably intended for topical application. The term "topical application", used here, means applying the phytosterols according to the present invention, possibly in the form of an active ingredient and / or composition, to the skin surface including the scalp, in particular by direct application or by spraying. The active ingredient and / or cosmetic compositions containing phytosterols according to the invention are preferably intended for the care and / or cosmetic treatment of the skin, including the scalp. In another embodiment, the phytosterols according to the invention can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. For the purposes of this invention, a "cosmetically acceptable" excipient means a compound and / or solvent that is topically acceptable, i.e., does not induce an undue allergic response on contact with the skin, including the human scalp, that is non-toxic, non-stable, or their equivalents. For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic composition" means a non-therapeutic composition, that is, a composition intended for the prevention and / or care of the skin, including the scalp, which a dermatologist would describe as "normal," meaning non-pathological. "Normal" skin or scalp means healthy skin or scalp as defined above. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the phytosterols according to the invention are present in the composition, preferably cosmetic, at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, or even advantageously from 0.2% to 3% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.25% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the phytosterols according to the invention may be in the form of a hygiene composition or a maintenance composition, in particular a detergent, further comprising at least one suitable excipient. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms classically used for topical application on the skin including the scalp, such as liquid or solid forms or even in the form of a pressurized liquid.They may be formulated as a solution, aqueous or oily, a cream or aqueous or oily gel, particularly in a jar or tube, including shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, lotion, oil, emulsion, hydrogel, microemulsion or nanoemulsion, including oil-in-water, water-in-oil, multiple, or silicone-based emulsion, serum, lotion, particularly in a glass or plastic bottle, a dosing bottle, an aerosol, or a spray, an ampoule, liquid or solid soap, paste, ointment, mousse, mask, lacquer, patch, anhydrous product, preferably liquid, paste, or solid, for example in stick form or powder form. They may also be makeup products or makeup removers.In particular, the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a shampoo, a conditioner, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, a mask, a lacquer, a spray, a wax, preferably it is a cream, a serum or a lotion. The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and / or any suitable vehicle and / or any suitable excipient, possibly in combination with other compounds of interest. Therefore, for these compositions, the excipient contains, for example, at least one compound chosen from the group consisting of preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texturizing agents, shine enhancers, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, colorants, perfumes and sunscreens. These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, other phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates,Jojoba oil and its derivatives, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycines, and parabens, and preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, the glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric / caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, a cyclomethicone,xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, the, Propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, Beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low-density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution. Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art for improving the health and / or physical appearance of the skin. Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic or dermatological compositions to achieve optimal effects. Furthermore, the compounds described in the present invention can have a synergistic effect when combined with one another. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992), describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, which are particularly suitable for topical use. Examples of these ingredient classes include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, and compounds with an aesthetic purpose such as perfumes, pigments, colorants, essential oils, astringents, etc.(e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate), anti-acne agents, anti-flocculants, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, swelling agents, chelating agents, additives, biocidal agents, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, and derivatives or equivalents thereof, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, depigmenting or lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (e.g., the humectants). Particularly advantageously, phytosterols according to the invention can be used, possibly in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, preferably dermatological, preferably those previously described, as the sole active agent, in particular as the sole active agent protecting and / or restoring the skin microbiota or in combination with one or more other active agents having complementary beneficial effects on the microbiota: - the antibacterial agents described in patent application FR2863893, and in particular an extract of Peumus boldus, such an extract being marketed by the Applicant under the name Betapur ™ and / or a local antibiotic agent, in particular erythromycin and / or clindamycin phosphate. - agents balancing the microbial flora such as a mixture of pullulan, sodium alginate and sodium hyaluronate marketed by the Applicant under the name PatcH20 ™ in particular associated with serine, trehalose and urea and described in patent application WO2014027163A2, and / or an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae to increase the commensal cutaneous and / or mucosal microbial flora marketed by the Applicant under the name Relipidium™. - comedolytic agent: retinoic acid and one of its derivatives such as isotretinoin, adapalene and / or 13cis retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide; - of moisturizing agents: one or more moisturizing agents such as a polysaccharide extracted from Cassia angustifolia seeds marketed under the name Hyalurosmooth™ by the applicant, or an agent selected from one of the combinations containing pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and sodium alginate marketed under the name PatcH2O™ by the applicant, or one or more of the compounds of the Natural Moisturizing Factor, or a natural honey extract marketed by the applicant under the name Melhydran™, and / or a compound from the glucosylglycerides family, in in particular hexosyl glyceride, an extract of pericarp of Litchi chinensis under the name Litchiderm™ by the applicant; Cosmetic compositions containing phytosterols according to the invention may contain the classic active ingredients of cosmetic compositions, in particular selected from: - an agent stimulating fibronectin synthesis, in particular a maize extract, such an extract being marketed by the Applicant under the name Deliner™ 'an agent protecting the fibroblast growth factor 2 (FGF2) of the extracellular matrix against its degradation and / or denaturation, in particular an A'Hibiscus Abelmoscus extract as described in the Applicant's patent application filed under number FR0654316 and / or a fibroblast growth stimulating agent, for example a fermented soy extract containing peptides, known as Phytokine™ marketed by the Applicant and also described in patent application EPI 119344 B1 (Laboratoires Expanscience), and preferably a combination of these two extracts; - an agent stimulating laminin synthesis, in particular a biotechnologically modified malt extract, such an extract being marketed by the Applicant under the name Basaline™; and a lipid synthesis stimulating agent such as a biotechnologically modified potato extract (solanum tuberosum) marketed by the Applicant under the name Lipidessence™; - an agent stimulating the expression and / or activity of Hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) such as the plant extracts described in patent application FR2 893 252 Al and in particular an aqueous extract of Galangal (Alpinia galanga); - a lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) synthesis stimulating agent such as those described in patent application FR2855968, and in particular an extract of dill; - one or more anti-pollution agents such as an extract of Argania spinosa leaves marketed under the name Arganyl™ or an extract of Moringa oleifera seeds marketed under the name Purisoft™ by the applicant or an extract of Eperua falcata root marketed under the name Eperuline™ - an agent stimulating intracellular ATP synthesis, in particular an extract of the algae Laminaria digitata; - an agent with global anti-aging action, particularly against pigment spots, especially niacinamide or vitamin B3; and any one of their mixtures. According to the present invention, the use of phytosterols according to the invention is particularly advantageous in that it allows a complete, effective and lasting action on all types of skin including scalp, in particular skin whose microbiota has been attacked by aggressive agents. Preferably, the phytosterols according to the invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, are applied to at least one area of the body where there are uncomfortable and / or unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations of altered microbiota, this area or these areas being preferably a body surface chosen from the skin of the face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), chin, scalp, neck, back, shoulders, forearms, chest, hands, and / or torso, in particular the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, abdomen, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, groin, torso, back, face and / or scalp, in particular maceration areas such as the diaper area, skin folds such as the armpits, back of elbows, back of knees, buttocks,the crotch, groin, neck, and / or around the lips. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the topical application of phytosterols according to the invention to at least one area of skin, advantageously the scalp, preferably to at least one surface selected from the skin of the face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), chin, scalp, neck, back, shoulders, forearms, chest, hands, and / or torso, in particular the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, abdomen, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, groin, torso, back, face and / or scalp, in particular areas of maceration such as the diaper area, areas of skin folds such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, groin, the groin, the neck,and / or around the lips to protect and / or restore the skin microbiota and / or to prevent and / or reduce the unsightly and / or uncomfortable and / or unpleasant manifestations of altered skin microbiota. Advantageously, the phytosterols according to the invention, preferably in the form of a composition for topical application, preferably a cosmetic composition according to the invention, are used in regular topical application, preferably at least once a day, advantageously twice a day, for at least 7 days. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin without rinsing by massaging. Preferably, the application is concomitant or sequential with that of an agent that is aggressive to the skin microbiota. Advantageously, the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for protecting and / or restoring the skin microbiota of an individual who needs / desires it, comprising the following steps: a) The identification on the individual of an area of skin whose skin microbiota must be protected and / or is altered and / or presents manifestations unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable symptoms related to alterations in the skin microbiota, and b) The topical application to this area of skin of a cosmetic composition containing phytosterols according to the invention in an amount effective to prevent and / or restore the skin microbiota on this area of skin, namely advantageously in a phytosterol content of between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, further advantageously from 0.2% to 3% by weight, further preferably from 0.25% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The phytosterols according to the invention can also be used for the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the occurrence of a pathology associated with an alteration of the skin microbiota, in particular chosen from the group consisting of acne, psoriasis, bacterial and / or fungal infections, ulcers, herpes, boils, folliculitis, abscesses, sycosis, impetigo, ecthyma, erysipelas, mycoses such as candidiasis or dermatophytoses such as ringworm and / or scabies, pigmentary and / or acne scars and / or any combination thereof and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of superinfection of wounds and / or in the prevention of spots. Preferably, the phytosterols according to the invention, preferably in the form of a pharmaceutical composition according to the invention, are applied to at least one area of the body exhibiting a pathology due to an altered skin microbiota, in particular to at least one area of the body exhibiting a pathology associated with an alteration of the skin microbiota, in particular selected from the group consisting of psoriasis, acne and / or bacterial and / or fungal infection, ulcers, herpes, boils, folliculitis, abscesses, sycosis, impetigo, ecthyma, erysipelas, mycoses such as candidiasis or dermatophytoses such as tinea capitis and / or scabies, pigmentary and / or acne scars, this or these areas being preferentially a body surface chosen from the skin of the face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), and / or chin, scalp, neck, back, shoulders, forearms, chest, hands, and / or bust, in particular the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolletage, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, face and / or scalp, in particular maceration areas such as the infant's bottom, fold areas such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and / or around the lips. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the phytosterols according to the invention are in the form of a pharmaceutical composition further comprising a pharmaceutically acceptable excipient and are present in the pharmaceutical composition in a content of between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more advantageously from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.25% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such pharmaceutical compositions may be found in the form of medical devices such as dressings, particularly in association with aggressive agents of the skin microbiota chosen from among antiseptic agents, disinfectants and their mixtures. Other purposes, features and advantages of the invention will become clear to those skilled in the art upon reading the explanatory description, which refers to examples given only by way of illustration and which shall in no way limit the scope of the invention. The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any feature which appears new compared with any prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention in its function and in its generality. Thus, each example has a general scope. Furthermore, in the examples, all percentages are given by weight unless otherwise stated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1: Method for preparing phytosterols according to the invention (a) Preparation of phytosterols: Rapeseed (Brassica campestris) oil is obtained using conventional methods and is commercially available. One production method involves grinding the seeds and then cold-pressing them. After removing impurities by filtration, the seed oil is transesterified and distilled to obtain a phytosterol concentrate. Crystals of these phytosterols are obtained by cooling and purified through successive stages of filtration and washing with solvents. The washing solvents are removed by heating under vacuum, and the molten phytosterols are obtained as a powder by passing them through a jet priller to obtain purified phytosterols (>95%). 1b) Preparation of phytosterols in mixture with a fatty alcohol according to the invention The purified phytosterols obtained in example (la) are mixed with cetearyl alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) in a 1:1 (weight:weight) ratio. The mixture is then heated above its melting point and atomized under a stream of cold air (prilling technology) to obtain a powder. EXAMPLE 2: Evaluation of the effect of improving the skin microbiota by a formulation containing Phytosterols according to the invention in the presence of an aggressive agent of the skin microbiota. Protocol: The test was conducted on 29 female volunteers who were given an aqueous solution of SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) at a concentration of 0.5% (w / w) relative to their weight. The entire solution was applied to the skin using a patch. After 24 hours of application, the patch was removed and the skin was left to rest without the application of any product. 24 hours after patch removal, the oily composition described in Example 3a), containing the phytosterols according to the invention as obtained in Example 1b) at 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, was applied once daily for 7 days. The skin microbiota was collected by swabbing before the application of SLS, 24 hours after removal of the patch containing SLS, and after the application period of the formulation containing the product of the invention. 10 Microbial DNA is extracted by a dual mechanical and chemical action, quantified by fluorescence and then analyzed by metasequencing of a 16S ribosomal RNA fragment. The primers used to amplify the hypervariable region of LARN16S are: 5'CCTACGGGNGGCWGCAG'3 (SEQ ID No. 1) and 5'GACTACHVGGGTATCTAATCC'3 (SEQ ID No. 2). 15 The results obtained are recorded in Table I in the form of mean relative abundances and deviation from the mean (SEM) calculated by the least squares method. Mean Genus (SEM) before patch application (“reference”) After 24H patch application (“post-patch”) P expressed vs reference 7 days after application formulation 3A) P expressed vs Post-patch Resident commensal and mutualistic skin bacteria Brevibacterium 0.151 (0.184) 0.172 (0.190) P=0.921 0.788 (0.193) P=0.0195 Corynebacterium 2.551 (0.825) 1.343 (0.832) P=0.019 2.532 (0.835) P=0.019 Kocuria 1.669 (0.386) 1.125 (0.390) P=0.0575 1.293 (0.392) Micrococcus 2.849 (0.726) 1.487 (0.732) P=0.003 2.468 (0.735) P=0.03 Roseomonas 0.235 (0.086) 0.169 (0.087) 0.247 (0.087) Brevundimonas 0.151 (0.044) 0.065 (0.045) 0.089 (0.046) Enhydrobacter 3.731 (0.813) 1.988 (0.833) P=0.0839 2.874 (0.842) P=0.2745 Paracoccus 4.028 (0.852) 2.408 (0.862) P=0.017 3.53 (0.868) P=0.090 Opportunity Bacteria Cutaneous pathogens: Pantoea 0.009 (1.186) 4.072 (1.235) P=0.033 0.437 (1.259) P=0.040; Pseudomonas 0.167 (0.144) 0.518 (0.149) P=0.10; 0.199 (0.151) P=0.10 P is obtained by the One way Annova test. The phytosterol-containing composition of the invention compensated for the disruptions to the microbiota induced by aggressive agents, restoring the initial levels of beneficial commensal microorganisms that had been reduced by the SLS detergent. The phytosterol-containing composition according to the invention re-induced the abundance of beneficial commensal microorganisms of the actinobacteria and proteobacteria groups, more specifically the abundance of commensals of the genera Micrococcus, Kocuria, Corynebacterium, and Brevibacterium, belonging to the families Micrococcaceae, Corynebacteriaceae, and Brevibacteriaceae. Similarly, it re-induced the abundance of beneficial commensal microorganisms of the proteobacteria group, including the genera Roseomonas and Brevundimonas. Enhydrobacter and paracoccus belong respectively to the families Acetobacteracea, Caulobacteraceae, Moraxellaceae, and Rhodobacteriaceae. The composition containing phytosterols according to the invention reduced the abundance of opportunistic pathogenic microorganisms such as the genera Pantoea and 5 pseudomonas, both belonging to the group of proteobacteria and the families Enterobacteriaceae and pseudomonaceae. In conclusion, the phytosterols according to the invention restored the microbiota which had been disrupted by the use of an aggressive agent to the microbiota, in this case a detergent agent. EXAMPLE 3: Cosmetic composition according to the invention 10 The phytosterols used are those obtained in example 1b) (after mixing with cetearyl alcohol) in powder form. Example 3A) Skin care oil Product Name Quantity (% by total weight) Vegetable oil 18.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 40.00 Coconut caprylate 40.00 Phytosterols according to the invention 2.00 Example 3B) Body balm Phase Name Quantity (% by total weight) A Cetearyl Glucoside / Cetearyl Alcohol 6.00 A Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.50 A Pentaerythrityl Distearate 3.00 A Glyceryl Stearate 2.00 A Dicaprylyl Carbonate 4.00 A Dicaprylyl Ether 2.00 A Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 4.00 A Elaeis Guineensis Oil 1.00 A Shorea Stenoptera Grain Butter 2.00 A Sodium Polyacrylate 0.75 A Polydimethylsiloxane 1.00 A Phytosterols according to the invention 1.00 A Octyldodecanol, Irvingia gabonensis, hydrogenated coconut glycerides 0.50 B Water 66.25 B Glycerin 5.00 C Cyperus esculentus root oil 1.00 C Perfume and preservatives q.s. q.s. The cream is prepared using the usual methods in the field, well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the 3 phases and adjusting the composition to a pH of 6.3. Example 30: lip balm Phase Name Quantity (% by total weight) A Oil blend (INCI: Olus oil), hydrogenated vegetable oil, Candelilla cera, vegetable oil, Euphorbia cerifera wax (Cegesoft® VP) 37.75 A Hydrogenated vegetable oil 5.00 A Hydrogenated castor oil 5.00 A Cetyl palmitate 7.00 A Myristyl myristate 7.00 A Behenyl alcohol 5.00 A Phytosterols according to the invention 3.00 A Butyrospermum parkii butter 3.00 A Oil blend (INCI: Olus oil) and vegetable oil (Cegesoft® PS 6) 12.00 A Passifkora incamata seed oil 5.00 A Talc 5.00 B Dicaprylyl carbonate, stearalkonium hectorite, carbonate of propylene 2.00 C Tocopherol 1.00 c Argania spinosa kernel oil 2.00 c Tetradibutyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.05 D Fragrance 0.20 The stick is prepared using standard methods well known to those skilled in the art, by heating phase A to 80-85°C with moderate stirring. Once melted and homogeneous, phase B is added, mixing and maintaining the temperature. The mixture is then stirred for 10 minutes at 80°C. The components of phases C and D are added, and the entire assembly is then hot-packed.
Claims
DEMANDS 1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use on healthy skin and / or hair of phytosterols to protect and / or restore the skin microbiota in order to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of skin microbiota alteration, said unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of skin microbiota alteration being: - dry skin, - skin desquamation, - the roughness of the skin, - the decrease or loss of skin resilience, - imperfections in skin tone, - the formation of blackheads, - the development of odor, phytosterols including - 30 to 70% beta-sitosterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols - 25 to 60% campesterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols -from 5 to 25% brassicasterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols, the phytosterols being mixed with a fatty alcohol in a phytosterol / fatty alcohol weight ratio between 40 / 60 and 60 / 40.
2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of alteration of the skin microbiota are skin desquamation.
3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of alteration of the skin microbiota are skin roughness, decrease or loss of skin resilience.
4. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of alteration of the skin microbiota are skin tone imperfections, the formation of blackheads, the development of odor.
5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phytosterols are extracted from rapeseed oil.
6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phytosterols are extracted from rapeseed oil Brassica campestris.
7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phytosterols contain: - 40 to 60% beta-sitosterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols - 25% to 40% campesterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols - 7 to 18% brassicasterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols.
8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phytosterols are mixed with cetearyl alcohol.
9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of phytosterols / fatty alcohol is between 45 / 55 and 55 / 45, or preferably 50 / 50.
10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phytosterols are in the form of a cosmetic or hygiene composition, preferably cosmetic, further comprising a cosmetically acceptable excipient.
11. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to the skin, in particular the scalp.
12. Use according to any one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that phytosterols are present in the composition at a content of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, more advantageously 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.25% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Use according to any of the preceding claims to protect the skin microbiota from the effects of an aggressive agent on the skin microbiota.
14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the aggressive agent is selected from the group consisting of Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Monoisopropanolamine-Laureth Sulfate, Laureth-4, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Laureth-8-Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate, Sodium Oleth Sulfate, Magnesium Laureth Sulfate, Monoethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Magnesium Laureth-8-Sulfate, Magnesium Oleth Sulfate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Coco-Bétaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Cocamide Monoethanolamine, Cocamide Diethanolamine, Cocamide Monoisopropanolamine, Lauramide Diethanolamine, Oleamide Diethanolamine, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate,Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate and mixtures thereof.
15. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the aggressive agent is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.
16. Use according to any one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that phytosterols are applied concomitantly or sequentially with the skin microbiota aggressive agent.
17. Use according to any one of claims 13 to 16, characterized in that the phytosterols and the skin microbiota aggressive agent are contained in the same composition.
18. Use according to any one of claims 10 to 17, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a shampoo, a conditioner, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, a mask, a lacquer, a spray, a wax, advantageously it is a cream, a serum or a lotion.
19. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 18 as a cutaneous prebiotic and / or to increase skin tolerance to aggressive agents of the cutaneous microbiota.
20. A cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of healthy skin, advantageously the scalp, of phytosterols to protect and / or restore the skin microbiota in order to reduce the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of alteration of the skin microbiota, These unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of altered skin microbiota include dry skin, skin scaling, roughness, decreased or lost skin resilience, uneven skin tone, blackhead formation, and the development of odor. Phytosterols include - 30 to 70% beta-sitosterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols - 25 to 60% campesterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols -from 5 to 25% brassicasterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols and the phytosterols being mixed with a fatty alcohol in a weight ratio of phytosterols / fatty alcohol between 40 / 60 and 60 / 40.
21. Cosmetic care process according to claim 20, characterized in that the phytosterols are as defined in any one of claims 5 to 10, 12, 16 and 17.
22. A cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 20 or 21, characterized in that this skin area is a body surface selected from the skin of the face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), and / or chin, scalp, neck, back, shoulders, forearms, chest, hands, and / or bust, in particular the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, face and / or scalp, in particular maceration areas such as the diaper area, fold areas such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and / or around the lips.
23. Phytosterols for their use in the treatment and / or reduction of the occurrence of a pathology associated with an alteration of the skin microbiota, in particular selected from the group consisting of acne, psoriasis and bacterial and / or fungal infections, ulcers, herpes, boils, folliculitis, abscesses, sycosis, impetigo, ecthyma, erysipelas, mycoses such as candidiasis or dermatophytoses such as tinea and / or scabies, pigmentary and / or acne scars, as well as combinations thereof, and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of superinfection of wounds, and / or the reduction of dandruff, chapped skin and / or cracks, and / or hair loss, phytosterols including - 30 to 70% beta-sitosterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols - 25 to 60% campesterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols -5 to 25% brassicasterol, by weight relative to the total weight of phytosterols and phytosterols being mixed with a fatty alcohol in a phytosterol / fatty alcohol weight ratio of between 40 / 60 and 60 / 40.
24. Phytosterols for their use according to claim 23, characterized in that the phytosterols are as defined according to any one of claims 5 to 9.
25. Phytosterols for use according to any one of claims 23 or 24, characterized in that the phytosterols are in the form of a pharmaceutical composition further comprising a pharmaceutically acceptable excipient and are present in said pharmaceutical composition in a content of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, more advantageously 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.25% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.