Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition to combat stretch marks

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, for topical application, comprising: - hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, having a molecular weight of at most 1000 kDa, - ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, and - an extract of Peucedanum graveolens. Figure for abstract: None.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for combating stretch marks

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to prevent and / or treat the appearance of stretch marks on the skin.

[0002] Stretch marks are skin lines that appear in particular following excessive distension of the skin, for example during weight gain, pregnancy, and / or hormonal changes, for example during puberty, and particularly affect women.

[0003] Stretch marks can be located on the front of the abdomen, on the breasts, thighs and hips.

[0004] They form parallel, long, cutaneous streaks, the color of which can vary from pale pink to purplish red (immature or inflammatory stretch marks). They tend to change color over time and take on a pearly white appearance (mature stretch marks). They then become less visible, but the scar may remain.

[0005] As indicated above, stretch marks can appear as a result of the skin being stretched too quickly and abruptly: it is therefore the dermal tissue which is damaged, the target cell for these attacks being the fibroblast.

[0006] There are numerous dermatological and / or cosmetic compositions intended to combat stretch marks. In this respect, mention may be made of application WO 00 / 19974 comprising an anti-stretch mark agent which may be soy peptides or tripeptides consisting of the amino acids glycine, histidine and lysine.

[0007] However, despite the various dermatological and / or cosmetic compositions available, there is still a need to be able to have new alternative compositions having new beneficial effects. In this respect, a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition has been discovered by the Applicant.

[0008] The present invention has as its first subject a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular for topical application, comprising: - hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, having a molecular weight of at most 1000 kDa, - ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, and - an extract of Peucedanum graveolens.

[0009] Preferably, the composition of the first object can be used for the prevention and / or treatment of stretch marks of the skin.

[0010] The second subject of the present invention is a composition for its application as a medicament for the prevention and / or treatment of stretch marks on the skin, including: - hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, having a molecular weight of at most 1000 kDa, - ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, and - an extract of Peucedanum graveolens.

[0011] Preferably, the composition of the second object may be formulated for topical application.

[0012] The composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the appearance of stretch marks on the skin, while guaranteeing non-irritating properties for the skin.

[0013] In the present invention, the expression "prevention of skin stretch marks" means an action making it possible to reduce, or even avoid, the formation of stretch marks in the context of a cosmetic and / or dermatological treatment, by application of the composition, before and during an event known to be able to cause the appearance of stretch marks.

[0014] In the present invention, the expression "treatment of skin stretch marks" means an action making it possible to regress, or even to reabsorb, in the context of a cosmetic or / and dermatological treatment, in a visible and measurable manner, stretch marks already formed.

[0015] The reduction or resorption of stretch marks is more particularly an action on their length, their width and / or their depth.

[0016] Thus, the composition used according to the invention can be applied topically to areas of the skin likely to form stretch marks, including stretch marks in the process of forming or even including stretch marks already formed. These areas are well known to those skilled in the art, and can correspond to the area of ​​the stomach, hips, buttocks, thighs and / or breasts. Hyaluronic acid or one of its salts

[0017] Hyaluronic acid is a natural disaccharide-based polymer, of the glycosaminoglycan type, comprising D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine units linked by a glucosidic bond.

[0018] It can be in free, hydrolyzed form, or in the form of one of its salts, such as alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts, for example sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium hyaluronate.

[0019] The hyaluronic acid usable in the invention is commercially available in various forms adapted according to the intended uses. It can be produced industrially in large quantities by extraction from animal tissues such as rooster combs, or by bacterial fermentation, or by biotechnological process from plant substances, for example wheat.

[0020] The properties of hyaluronic acid vary greatly depending on its molecular weight. Hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, with a molecular weight of at most 1000 kDa (i.e. low molecular weight) has the advantage of being able to cross the barrier of the stratum corneum and thus stimulate the CD44 receptors responsible for the neosynthesis of hyaluronic acid in the dermis.

[0021] Hyaluronic acid, or a salt thereof, may have a molecular weight of at least 50 kDa, preferably at least 100 kDa, and most preferably at least 300 kDa.

[0022] Hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, may further have a molecular weight of at most 800 kDa, and preferably at most 500 kDa.

[0023] In a particularly preferred manner, hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, may have a molecular weight ranging from 300 kDa to 500 kDa.

[0024] The studies carried out by the applicant have shown that the choice of a hyaluronic acid meeting this condition allows an action in the epidermis, leading to an improvement in keratinocyte function, without directly affecting the dermis.

[0025] The composition of the invention may comprise an effective amount of hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, the effective amount being that which is necessary to obtain the expected effects according to the invention.

[0026] By way of example, the composition of the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight of hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, and preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight of hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives

[0027] Ascorbic acid (or vitamin C) is an organic acid, generally in L form (i.e. L-ascorbic acid), as it is usually extracted from natural products such as lemons, oranges, etc.

[0028] The ascorbic acid derivatives may be chosen from salts, such as in particular sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate; esters, such as in particular acetic, propionic or palmitic esters; sugars, such as in particular glycosylated ascorbic acid; and a mixture thereof.

[0029] Ascorbic acid, or one of its derivatives, is preferably in a stabilized form. In other words, ascorbic acid, or one of its derivatives, is in a substantially non-oxidizable form, and in particular a form that can be transported by a lipid.

[0030] As an example of stabilized ascorbic acid, mention may be made of ethyl ascorbic acid.

[0031] The composition of the invention may comprise an effective amount of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, the effective amount being that which is necessary to obtain the expected effects according to the invention.

[0032] By way of example, the composition of the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, and preferably 0.1% to 2% of acid ascorbic or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition. Peucedanum graveolens extract

[0033] A peucedanum graveolens extract is an extract of a plant of the genus Peucedanum graveolens, a plant also known as dill. The extract may be the plant as a whole, and / or one or more constituent elements of the plant such as a flower, a seed, a root, a rhizome, a stem, a fruit and / or a leaf. The plant and / or the constituent elements of the plant may be prepared by grinding or chemical extraction well known to those skilled in the art.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the peucedanum graveolens extract may be an extract of the fruit of Peucedanum graveolens.

[0035] Such compounds may also be isolated from the plant using extraction procedures well known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, using organic solvents such as Cr-C8 lower alcohols, Cr-C8 alkyl polyols, Cr-C8 alkyl ketones, Cr-C8 alkyl ethers, Cr-C8 alkyl esters of acetic acid, and chloroform, and / or using inorganic solvents such as water, inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, and inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide.

[0036] A particularly suitable Peucedanum graveolens extract may be a product commercially available from BASF Beauty Care Solutions, under the reference Lys'Lastine, this product comprising an extract of Peucedanum graveolens at a level of 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said product.

[0037] The composition of the invention may comprise an effective amount of Peucedanum graveolens extract, the effective amount being that which is necessary to obtain the expected effects according to the invention.

[0038] By way of example, the composition of the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 2% by weight of Peucedanum graveolens extract, and preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight of Peucedanum graveolens extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The compositions in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), spot-on, serum (or essence), mask or ointment, containing usual compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and supports. They may also be presented in the form of patches, tulles or controlled-release dressings, or wipes soaked in a composition according to the invention.

[0040] These topical administration forms are prepared by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or vice versa to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0041] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more usual excipients, suitable in particular for external topical administration, in particular excipients which are dermatologically and / or cosmetically acceptable.

[0042] These excipients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be chosen for example from one or more of the compounds i to xv listed below: i. antioxidant vitamins, other than vitamin C or one of its derivatives, such as vitamin E, for example tocopheryl acetate or tocotrienol; natural polyphenols; ii. buffers, such as citric acid or one of its salts; sodium hydroxide; iii. vegetable oils such as, for example, Kukui oil, Ca-lophyllum Inophyllum oil, Helichrysum oil, Macadamia oil, Inca inchi oil, prickly pear oil, argan oil; iv. gelling agents and / or thickeners, such as natural gums like xanthan gum; synthetic polymers, for example polyacrylamides of the Carbopol type, crosslinked acrylate polymers and cellulose derivatives; sodium acrylate copolymers; v. emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, such as arachidyl glucoside; cetearyl glucoside; behenyl alcohol; cetearyl alcohol; cetostearyl alcohol; cetyl alcohol, steareth-2; steareth-21; isostearyl isostearate; isopropyl myristate, sorbitan esters and polysorbates; hydrophilic polymer of acrylic acid (eg carbomer); vi. emollients and surfactants, such as octyl dodecanol; isononyl isononanoate; capric / caprylic triglycerides; cetearyl octanoate; isopropyl myristate; cetearyl isononanoate; polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate; hydrogenated polyisobutene; cetyl palmitate; cetyl phosphate; vegetable oils such as macadamia oil; lecithin; glyceryl caprylate; vii. silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone; viii. humectants / moisturizing agents, such as glycerin; butylene glycol; propylene glycol; ix. preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid; benzoic acid; potassium sorbate; sodium benzoate; methyl or ethyl parahydroxybenzoates; chlorophenesin; x. ultraviolet protection agents, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens, chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone; a cinnamic acid ester, and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate and methoxy- 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate, or a cyano-[3, [3-diphenylacrylate such as octo-crylene, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and 4-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane; or such as pigments forming a UV screen; xi. exfoliating powders; fruit powders; or mattifying powders such as methyl methacrylate copolymer; xii. neutralizing agents; xiii. solubilizers; xiv. dyes; and / or xv. of perfumes.

[0043] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more usual complementary active agents, adapted in particular to external topical administration, in particular active agents which are dermatologically and / or cosmetologically acceptable.

[0044] These complementary active ingredients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be, for example, anti-aging active ingredients, soothing active ingredients, purifying active ingredients, moisturizing active ingredients, antimicrobial active ingredients, etc.

[0045] The third subject of the present invention is a use of an extract of Peucedanum graveolens for the prevention and / or treatment of stretch marks of the skin. Preferably, said extract is used in topical application.

[0046] Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear in the light of the examples which follow, said examples being given for illustrative purposes and in no way limiting. Examples

[0047] L Evaluation of the effect of the composition of the invention on red stretch mark fibroblasts in the GlasBox system^^

[0048] Comparative tests were carried out to show the effect of the composition according to the invention on the contractile forces of red stretch mark fibroblasts (immature or inflammatory stretch marks).

[0049] 1.1. Operating mode

[0050] 1.1.1. Active compounds

[0051] The active compounds are listed in Table 1 below:

[0052] [Tables 1] Active ingredients Commercial reference Hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, with a molecular weight of at most 1000 kDa (storage at room temperature) Reference Primalhyal 450, marketed by the company Soliance AH Ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives (storage at room temperature) Reference ET-VC, marketed by the company Safic-Alcan AA Extract of Peucedanum graveolens (storage at +4°C). Reference Lys'Lastine^, marketed by the company BASF Beauty Care solutions PG

[0053] Table 1

[0054] (*) The Lys'Lastine compound mainly comprises water and approximately 7.5% in weight of Peucedanum graveolens extract relative to the total weight of said compound.

[0055] The active ingredients are diluted directly in a culture medium as described below.

[0056] 1.1.2. Obtaining and culturing fibroblasts

[0057] A 2 mm diameter biopsy was performed on a red stretch mark from a 22-year-old man.

[0058] The classic explantation technique is used for the extraction of fibroblasts. The explant is cultured in "Dulbecco's modified Eagle's medium" supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum (FCS), 40 mg / l of gentamicin and 2 mg / l of fungizone (DMEMc) at 37°C, in a humid atmosphere and in the presence of 5% CO2. Gradually, in about ten days, the fibroblasts migrate outside the explant. The culture medium is renewed twice a week. When the fibroblasts are in sufficient quantity, they are detached under the action of trypsin-EDTA, subcultured and amplified under the same culture conditions.

[0059] 1.2. Study of isometric forces in the GlasBoxplus® system

[0060] 1.2.1. Presentation of the GlasBoxplus® system

[0061] The equivalent dermis develop in a culture dish which is made up of eight rectangular tanks. In each of them are immersed two flexible blades whose lower parts are made up of grids on which the equivalent dermis clings during its polymerization. The equivalent dermis develops between two blades to end up in a rectangular shape slightly narrowed in the center. This shape in classical mechanics is called a "diabolo" shape.

[0062] Under the influence of contractile forces (or contraction forces) developed by the fibroblasts, the laminae deform. Their deformation is measured using optical fibers. This deformation is proportional to the force developed within the dermis equivalent. The measurements are carried out in real time using a PC acquisition card and suitable software.

[0063] 1.2.2. Preparation of equivalent dermis under tension and measurement of iso forces metrics

[0064] The fibroblasts cultured in monolayer and treated or not are trypsinized then counted to bring the cell suspension to 8105 cells / ml. A medium for manufacturing equivalent dermis is prepared by mixing: - 6 volumes of 1.76X medium (DMEMc, NaHCO3, NaOH, antibiotics, FCS), - 3 volumes of rat tail type I collagen (2 mg / ml), and - 1 volume of cell suspension (8105 cells / ml).

[0065] The mixture is poured into the rectangular tanks of the GlasBoxplus®. In a few minutes at 37°C, a gel is formed. The culture medium containing or not the active compounds is added and the isometric forces are measured for 24 hours.

[0066] The test groups are as follows: - Control (i.e. culture medium without active compound); -AH (0.1%); -AA (0.1%); -PG (0.1%); - Comparative Mixture (Mixture C): AH (0.1%) + AA (0.1%); and - Mixture according to the invention (Mixture I): AH (0.1%) + AA (0.1%) + PG (0.1%).

[0067] The quantities expressed in parentheses correspond to quantities by weight relative to the total weight of the culture medium.

[0068] 1.2.3. Calculations and statistical analyses

[0069] Values ​​are expressed as the mean ± standard error of the distribution of means (sem).

[0070] For the study of contractile forces, curves showing the contractile forces as a function of time were obtained, the areas under the curves (AUC) were calculated as well as the maximum contraction (Max), all using the GraphPad Prism ® software. The AUC provides information on the overall effect of the treatment on the contractile forces. The maximum contraction corresponds to the plateau of the curves. For these data, a one-way analysis of variance is carried out, followed if necessary by a Fisher test.

[0071] 1.3. Study of the contractile forces of red stretch mark fibroblasts

[0072] 1.3.1. Study of the effect of AH

[0073] The results are gathered in Table 2 below:

[0074] [Tables2] Control AH % decrease Calculated parameters Average Weekly Average Weekly AUC 2724.9 42.1 2612.8 71.8 -4.1% Max 115.49 1.70 110.93 2.86 -3.9%

[0075] Table 2

[0076] The AUC and the Max are not significantly modified in the presence of 0.1% by weight of AH compared to the Control (decrease of approximately 4%).

[0077] 1.3.2. Study of the effect of AA

[0078] The results are gathered in Table 3 below:

[0079] [Tables3] AA Witness % decrease Calculated parameters Average Weekly Average Weekly AUC 2717.5 38.8 2688.8 149.3 -1.0% Max 115.00 1.79 113.88 6.08 -0.9%

[0080] Table 3

[0081] The AUC and the Max are not significantly modified in the presence of 0.1% by weight of AA compared to the Control (decrease of approximately 1%).

[0082] 1.3.3. Study of the effect of the PG-based compound

[0083] The results are gathered in Table 4 below:

[0084] [Tables4] PG Witness % decrease Calculated parameters Average Weekly Average Weekly AUC 2745.1 48.1 2621.4 168.6 -4.5% Max 116.89 2.01 111.71 7.15 -4.4%

[0085] Table 4

[0086] The AUC and the Max are not significantly modified in the presence of 0.1% by weight of PG compared to the Control (decrease of approximately 4.5%).

[0087] 1.3.4. Study of the effect of Mixture C

[0088] The results are gathered in Table 5 below:

[0089] [Tables5] Control Mixture C % decrease Calculated parameters Average Weekly Average Weekly AUC 2745.1 48.1 2621.4 168.6 -4.5% Max 116.89 2.01 111.71 7.15 -4.4%

[0090] Table 5

[0091] The AUC and the Max are not significantly modified in the presence of Mixture C (AH (0.1%) + AA (0.1%)) compared to the Control (decrease of approximately 4.5%).

[0092] 1.3.5. Study of the effect of Mixture I

[0093] The results are gathered in Table 6 below:

[0094] [Tableauxô] Control Mixture I % decrease Calculated parameters Average Weekly Average Weekly AUC 2688.2 55.0 2302.4 89.2 -14.4% Max 112.89 2.72 97.76 3.96 -13.4%

[0095] Table 6

[0096] A significant decrease in AUC and Max is observed in the presence of Mixture I (AH (0.1%) + AA (0.1%) + PG (0.1%)) compared to the Control (decrease of approximately 14%).

[0097] 1.3.6. Conclusion

[0098] The active compounds AA, AH or PG used alone have no or very little effect on the contractile forces of red stretch mark fibroblasts. Mixture C also has very little effect on the development of contractile forces.

[0099] On the other hand, Mixture I in accordance with the invention allows a very significant reduction in contractile forces and thus significantly limits or even prevents the rupture of stretch mark fibroblasts. Thus Mixture I has significant anti-stretch mark properties.

[0100] 2, Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on an extract of Peucedanum graveolens. according to the invention

[0101] Following conventional techniques, a gel is prepared based on a composition according to the invention, the constituents of this composition being gathered in table 7 below:

[0102] [Tables?] Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on an extract of Peucedanum graveolens % by weight Demineralized water 89.58 Hyaluronic acid 0.05 Ascorbic acid 0.60 Compound based on an extract of Peucedanum graveolens 0.10 Humectant 3.00 Emollient 4.75 Thickener 0.75 Emulsifier 0.40 Perfume 0.40 Preservative 0.20 Buffer 0.17 Total 100

[0103] Table 7

[0104] The quantities of the different constituents of the composition of table 7 are expressed in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] The origin of the constituents of the composition of Table 7 is as follows: - Hyaluronic acid is a 450 kDa hyaluronic acid, marketed by the company Soliance, under the reference Primalhyal 450; - Ascorbic acid is vitamin C stabilized in the form of ethyl-ascorbic acid, marketed by the company Safic-Alcan under the reference ET-VC; and - Compound based on an extract of Peucedanum graveolens is the compound marketed by the company BASF Beauty Care solutions, under the reference Lys'Lastine, this compound comprising approximately 7.5% by weight of extract of Peucedanum graveolens relative to the total weight of said compound; this compound further comprises solvents (water at a level of 67% by weight, and penthylene glycol at a level of 7.5% by weight), 0.5% by weight of thickener and 17.5% by weight of humectant, relative to the total weight of said compound.

[0106] The other constituents cited in Table 7, such as: humectant, emollient, thickener, emulsifier, preservative and buffer, are conventional excipients such as for example those cited in the present invention.

[0107] This gel can be easily applied in particular to the stomach, hips, buttocks, thighs and / or breasts.

[0108] To treat stretch marks, this gel can be applied two to three times a day, preferably every 8 hours, and for at least 8 weeks, until satisfactory results are obtained.

[0109] To prevent the appearance of stretch marks, the gel described above can be applied at least once or twice a day, for example in the morning and / or evening, for at least 12 weeks, and preferably for at least 24 weeks.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, for topical application, comprising: - hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, having a molecular weight of at most 1000 kDa, - ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, and - an extract of Peucedanum graveolens.

2. Composition for its application as a medicament for the prevention and / or treatment of stretch marks of the skin, comprising: - hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, having a molecular weight of at most 1000 kDa, - ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, and - an extract of Peucedanum graveolens.

3. A composition according to claim 2, formulated for topical application.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, has a molecular weight of at least 50 kDa.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts, has a molecular weight of at most 800 kDa.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight of hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.001% to 2% by weight of Peucedanum graveolens extract, and preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight of Peucedanum graveolens extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Peucedanum graveolens is an extract of the fruit of Peucedanum graveolens.