Composition comprising a combination of at least one fat, a specific carboxylic acid, and an oxidation dye and / or an alkaline agent
The composition, rich in fatty substances and n, n-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, addresses the limitations of existing hair dyes by delivering intense, long-lasting, and evenly distributed color with improved selectivity and storage stability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2020013508
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-04
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-12-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dye compositions using oxidation bases often result in unsatisfactory tinctorial power, limited color range, and poor durability against external agents, leading to uneven color distribution along hair fibers.
A composition comprising at least 30% fatty substances, n, n-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid or its salts, and an oxidation color and/or an alkaline agent, applied to keratin fibers to achieve intense, long-lasting color with improved selectivity.
The composition provides intense, homogeneous color with a wide range of shades, excellent color retention, and effective coverage of white hair, maintaining performance even after storage.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising the combination of at least one fatty substance, a particular carboxylic acid and an oxidation dye and / or an alkaline agent
[0001] The invention relates to a composition comprising the combination of at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one particular carboxylic acid and at least one oxidation dye and / or an alkaline agent.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.
[0003] The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0004] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.
[0005] It is known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorations with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
[0006] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. However, the implementation of these dye compositions can present a certain number of drawbacks.
[0007] Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the tinctorial power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a restricted range of colors.
[0008] The colorations may also not be sufficiently tenacious against external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloration is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.
[0009] There is a real need to provide a coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, not having the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say which is capable of leading to a coloring having an intense coloring with improved tenacity as well as good coverage of white hair and good selectivity and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a period of storage.
[0010] These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition, in particular for the coloring of keratin fibers, comprising: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures and - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.
[0011] The present invention also relates to a process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers in which the composition according to the invention is applied to said fibers.
[0012] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0013] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce powerful, intense and non-selective chromatic colorations, i.e. colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber. It also makes it possible to achieve different shades in a very wide range of colors. In addition, it allows good color build-up.
[0014] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention leads to tenacious colorations with improved durability over time.
[0015] This composition also makes it possible to cover depigmented keratin fibers, such as white hair, particularly well.
[0016] Furthermore, the dyeing performance is little, if at all, deteriorated after long periods of storage.
[0017] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0018] By “chemical oxidizing agent” according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0019] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0020] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0021] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. Fatty body
[0022] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) and solid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0025] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.
[0026] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0027] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.
[0028] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0029] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols liquids, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0030] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0031] As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0032] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0034] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0035] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; no-nafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M Company.
[0036] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0037] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0038] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0039] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0042] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0044] Suitable sugars that may be mentioned include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0045] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0046] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0047] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0048] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0049] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0050] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0051] The silicone oils that can be used in composition A according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10-6 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s.
[0052] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0053] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils that can be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.
[0054] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0055] When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylal-kylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE. Also exemplary are mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m2 / s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.
[0056] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.
[0057] These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0058] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - oils from the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 200 series oils such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0059] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.
[0060] The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
[0061] As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.
[0062] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.
[0063] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite by way of example the products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - BAYER PK series silicones such as PK20; - BAYER PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 and PH1000 products - certain oils from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0064] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products marketed under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups; - alkoxylated groups, - hydroxyl groups.
[0065] The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0066] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0067] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0068] The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0069] In a particularly preferred manner, the fatty acid(s) are chosen from behenic acid and arachidic acid.
[0070] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0071] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0072] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0073] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara- chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0074] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0075] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0076] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0077] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.
[0078] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0080] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition that contains them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0081] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.
[0082] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0083] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0084] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0085] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0086] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.
[0087] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0088] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.
[0089] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.
[0091] The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R 1 denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R 3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the group hydroxyl being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0092] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.
[0093] Preferably, ceramides are used for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R 2 denotes a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R 3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0094] It is also possible to use compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C[2-C22] fatty acids; R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R 3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C[2-C22] hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0095] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.
[0096] The solid fatty bodies are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures.
[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and their mixtures.
[0098] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.
[0100] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance, preferably at least one liquid hydrocarbon comprising more than 16 carbon atoms. and at least one solid fatty alcohol.
[0101] Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) is greater than or equal to 35% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 45% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] Preferably, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 35% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 45% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 35% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 45% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. N,N-Dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid
[0104] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures.
[0105] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0106] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.
[0107] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA). For example, Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel will be used.
[0108] Preferably, the total content of the compound(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures, preferably varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.075 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0109] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oxidation dyes. The oxidation dyes are chosen from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes chosen from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers and their mixtures. Couplers
[0111] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one oxidation coupler (or coupling agent) advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.
[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation coupler.
[0113] Among the oxidation couplers, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.
[0114] Examples that may be mentioned include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)-benzene, 2-amino-4-(B-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and the corresponding mixtures, the solvates, the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0115] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more couplers chosen from: 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine of formula (I), its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline of formula (II), its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol of formula (III), its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.
[0117] The addition salts of the compounds of formula (I), (II) and (III) are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0118] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0119] Furthermore, the solvates of the compounds of formula (I), (II) and (III) more particularly represent the hydrates of these compounds and / or the association of these compounds with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0120] When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from the couplers of formulae (I), (II) and (HD) as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, their total content preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oxidation bases
[0122] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one oxidation base.
[0123] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation base.
[0124] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts.
[0125] Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N ,N-diethy 1- 3 -methyl laniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- [3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- y-hy-droxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates. ,
[0126] Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates are particularly preferred.
[0127] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, the corresponding acid addition salts and their solvates.
[0128] Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned, there are for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.
[0129] Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.
[0130] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0131] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds for example described in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.
[0132] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, . 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; the corresponding addition salts and their solvates.
[0133] More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on the carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; (b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (Cl-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts.
[0134] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0135] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methyl->pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenyl-ipyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-ipyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methyl-ipyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, the corresponding addition salts and solvates. 4,5-Diamino-1-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used.
[0136] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt.
[0137] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-diliydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one. ,
[0138] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt will preferably be used.
[0139] 4,5-Diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt will preferably be used as heterocyclic bases.
[0140] These compounds may also be present in solvated form.
[0141] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-Y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0142] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-to-luenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0143] When it(they) is(are) present, the oxidation base(s) is(are) present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, the oxidation base(s) chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-Y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(|3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, the solvates of their salts and their mixtures are present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0145] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.
[0146] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.
[0147] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.
[0148] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and acids polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, the salts of alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.
[0149] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0150] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0151] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0152] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
[0153] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0154] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.
[0155] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
[0156] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.
[0157] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulfated surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, more preferably sulfated anionic surfactants, even more preferably alkyl sulfates, are preferably used.
[0158] The non-ionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.
[0159] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylene sorbitan, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine; - amine oxides.
[0160] They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0161] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cw-Cu acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0162] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan can be chosen from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquii-sostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.
[0163] The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably chosen from ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0164] Preferably, the ester(s) of C8-C30 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids and of oxyethylenated sorbitan, in particular from esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan.
[0165] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), oxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65), oxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).
[0166] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, even better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.
[0167] The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.
[0169] As quaternary ammonium salts, we can notably cite, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (X): rn + (X) R,. < Xi J in which the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, C1-C22 alkylamidoalkyl (C2-C6), C1-C22 alkylacetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups, X ■ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, C1-C4 alkyl- or C1-C4 alkylaryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN. DYK.
[0170] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of following formula (XI): CO-R)2 (XI) in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X ■ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(CrC4 )sulfates, alkyl(CrC4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.
[0171] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XII) next: in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).
[0172] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such that, for example, those of formula (XIII) following: ---FU (XIII) O C—[O—crf1—O); X FU in which: R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, the C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29. The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium may be used. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (XIII) that may be mentioned are salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylé- ethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0173] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
[0174] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially from sulfated anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.
[0175] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from non-ionic surfactants, better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, even better still from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglucosides, such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.
[0176] When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, the total content of surfactants in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] When the composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactant(s), the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening
[0178] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more thickening agents.
[0179] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickening agent” means an agent which, by its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs, preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s *. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or similar).
[0180] The thickening agent(s) may, in particular, be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from Cio-C3o carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanol-amide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), thickening polymers other than associative polymers and in particular non-ionic cellulose polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, associative polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0181] The thickening polymers can be chosen from associative polymers and non-associative polymers.
[0182] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymers" means water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0183] Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0184] The associative polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention may be of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic type, such as the polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
[0185] Preferably, the associative polymers can be chosen from cellulosic polymers.
[0186] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain.
[0187] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.
[0188] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, preferably chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof, and even better still polyquaternium-67.
[0189] The thickening polymers can also be chosen from non-associative polymers, and in particular non-ionic cellulosic polymers. (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0190] Among the non-associative polymers, one can also choose an anionic (meth)acrylic polymer such as homo- or co-polymers of (met)acrylic acid. Examples include compounds with the INCI name Carbomer.
[0191] Preferably, the non-associative polymers are chosen from guar gums, xanthan gum, homo- or co-polymers of (meth)acrylic acid.
[0192] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from associative or non-associative thickening polymers.
[0193] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from non-associative thickening polymers, more preferably from guar gums.
[0194] The guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be non-ionic or cationic.
[0195] According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified non-ionic guar gums can be used.
[0196] Unmodified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0197] The modified non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified by C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0198] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0199] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0200] The hydroxyalkylation rate, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.
[0201] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company MEYHALL, or under the name GA- LACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.
[0202] Also suitable are non-ionic guar gums modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, more especially hydroxypropyl, modified by groups comprising at least one C6-C30 fatty chain. Examples of such compounds include, among others, the product ESAFLOR HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18® (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company RHONE POULENC.
[0203] The cationic guar gums which can be used more particularly according to the invention are guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Preferably, 2 to 30% and even more preferably 5 to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.
[0204] Among these trialkylammonium groups, we can particularly mention the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.
[0205] Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.
[0206] According to the invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride is preferably used.
[0207] These guar gums modified by cationic groups are products already known in themselves and are for example described in patents US 3,589,578 and US 4,0131,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company MEYHALL.
[0208] Preferably, a non-ionic guar gum is used and, among these non-ionic guar gums, more particularly guar gums modified by hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0209] When the composition comprises one or more thickening agents, the total content of thickening agent(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0210] When the composition comprises one or more thickening polymers, the total content of thickening polymer(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0211] When the composition comprises one or more guar gums, the total content of guar gum(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent
[0212] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more alkaline, mineral, organic or hybrid agent(s).
[0213] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alkaline, mineral, organic or hybrid agent(s).
[0214] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used interchangeably.
[0215] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof.
[0216] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines, oxyethyleneated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 diaminopropane, 1,3 diamino 2 propanol, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
[0217] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0218] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.
[0219] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof.
[0220] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, citrulline.
[0221] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may can also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)
[0222] As hybrid compounds, it is possible in particular to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
[0223] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates and their mixtures, more preferably from ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines.
[0224] When the composition comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably varies from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 20% by weight, even better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0225] According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition comprising at least one alkaline agent is between 8 and 13; preferably, between 9 and 12.
[0226] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value using acidic or alkaline agent(s) usually used in dyeing keratin fibers such as those described above, or even using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art. Solvents
[0227] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0228] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0229] The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0230] Furthermore, preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount su greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0231] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which may be mentioned cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures different from those previously described, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, sequestering agents other than N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts.
[0232] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.
[0233] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
[0234] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures, - at least one oxidation dye and - at least one alkaline agent.
[0235] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents.
[0236] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures, - at least one oxidation coupler, - at least one oxidation base, - at least one surfactant, and - at least one alkaline agent. Process
[0237] The present invention also relates to a process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above.
[0238] Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair.
[0239] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0240] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0241] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0242] According to this embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions: a coloring composition comprising: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures, - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent and, an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0243] According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0244] According to this embodiment, the process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: (a) a composition comprising: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures, - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent and, b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0245] In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: (a) a composition comprising: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures, - at least one oxidation dye, - at least one alkaline agent And, b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0246] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates and their mixtures, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0247] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
[0248] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.
[0249] The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0250] In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons liquids containing more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.
[0251] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7.
[0252] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0253] Preferably, at least one of the compositions used in steps a) and / or b) is aqueous. Kit
[0254] Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, at least one first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least one second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.
[0255] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.
[0256] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0257] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0258] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0259] In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions A
[0260] Composition A1 according to the present invention and comparative composition A2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:
[0261] [Tables 1] A (invention) Al (comparative) ASCORBIC ACID 0.12 0.12 MONOETHANOLAMINE 4.74 4.74 SODIUM METABISULFITE 0.22 0.22 PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (vaseline oil) 60 60 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE 0.1 0.1 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLINE 0.35 0.35 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 1 1 2-METHYL-5-HYDROXYETHYLAMINOPHENOL 0.05 0.05 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.24 1.24 HYDROXYETHYL-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.8 0.8 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 3 3 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1 1 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE (GLDA) 0.1 - Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) - 0.2 water QSP 100 QSP 100 Oxidizing composition
[0262] The oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:
[0263] [Tables 2] B HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 6 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6 STEARETH-20 5 PEG-4 RAPESEEDAMIDE 1.2 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (Vaseline oil) 20 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.2 GLYCERIN 0.5 HEXADIMETHRIN CHLORIDE 0.15 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 PHOSPHORIC ACID QSP pH 2.2 Water QSP 100 Coloring protocol
[0264] Compositions A1 and A2 are each mixed with oxidizing composition B according to the weight ratio 1+1.
[0265] Each of the mixtures is applied to strands of 90% natural white (NW) hair at a rate of 5g of mixture per 1g of hair.
[0266] After 30 minutes of resting on a hot plate at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with L'Oréal Professionnel Pro Classic universal concentrated shampoo, diluted to 10%, and dried. Results
[0267] Hair coloring is evaluated in the L*a*b* system, with a KONICA MINOLTA CM-3600A spectro-colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0268] In this system, L* represents lightness. The lower the value of L*, the darker and more powerful the resulting coloration. Chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, with a* representing the red / green axis and b* the yellow / blue axis.
[0269] The rise is represented by the color difference AE between the strands of colored and uncolored natural hair, AE being obtained from the formula: [°27°] AE ~
[0271] in which L* represents the intensity, a* and b* the chromaticity of colored hair and Lq* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of uncolored hair. The higher the value of AE, the better the color rise
[0272] The results are summarized in the following table. The compositions are either prepared and applied without storage period (TO), or previously stored for 2 months at 45°C before being used (2M45).
[0273] [Tables3] L* a* b* AE Uncolored wick 66.44 0.33 14.46 Al + B (invention) at t0 31.66 9.4 12.53 36 Al + B (invention) after storage for 2 months at 45°C 30.42 9.1 11.41 37.21 A2 + B (comparative) at to 28.68 9.21 10.68 38.98 A2 + B (comparative) after storage for 2 months at 45°C 30.88 9.22 11.14 36.81
[0274] The composition according to the invention A1 is more stable over time, compared to the comparative composition A2. The composition A1 makes it possible to obtain equivalent colorations in terms of rise and power from compositions A1 used immediately after preparation or after 2 months of storage at 45°C, even with a GLDA content 50% lower than the EDTA content of the comparative composition. In comparison, the coloration from composition A2 after 2 months of storage at 45°C shows a loss of power and a significant loss of rise of the coloration compared to the coloration from composition A2 used immediately after its preparation.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures and - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular vaseline oil, liquid fatty alcohols and their mixtures.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the fatty substance(s) is greater than or equal to 35% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 45% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to claim 2, in which the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) is greater than or equal to 35% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 45% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures is chosen from its alkali metal salts, preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA).
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and their mixtures varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.075 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one oxidation dye chosen from oxidation couplers, more preferably chosen from 6-hydroxy benzo-morpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oxidation dye chosen from oxidation bases, preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates, the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(|3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant, the surfactant(s) preferably being chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from sulfated anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and sodium (hydrogen)carbonates. potassium and their mixtures, more preferably among ammonia and alkanolamines, better among alkanolamines.
12. A composition according to any preceding claim, not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent.
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
14. Process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
15. Process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition defined according to claim 13 is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions: a) a coloring composition comprising: - at least one fatty substance, the total fatty substance content being greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and, - at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts and mixtures thereof, - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent; and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
16. A multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
17. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.