Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanin and an oily phase comprising at least one citric acid ester
By using di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C24 alcohols, the solubility and photostability of merocyanines in oily phases are enhanced, addressing the limitations of existing photoprotective compositions and ensuring effective UV protection with improved cosmetic properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2020013605
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-12-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-06
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-12-18
AI Technical Summary
Existing photoprotective compositions face challenges in achieving effective solubility and photostability of merocyanine derivatives in oily phases, particularly for long-wave UVA radiation, leading to insufficient UV protection and cosmetic drawbacks like greasiness.
Incorporating di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C24 alcohols into the composition to enhance the solubility of merocyanines in oily phases, even in the presence of additional organic filters, resulting in non-greasy and non-sticky formulations.
The solution significantly improves the solubility and photostability of merocyanines, providing comprehensive UV protection across the UV spectrum while maintaining good cosmetic properties.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanin and an oily phase comprising at least one citric acid ester
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least one merocyanin of formula (1) or (2) which will be defined in detail later and at least one oily phase comprising at least one ester of a di or tricarboxylic acid and C1-C24 alcohols.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0003] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above.
[0004] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above.
[0005] It is known that radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the human epidermis to tan, and that radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, interferes with the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles and leading to premature skin aging.
[0006] It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate the skin more deeply than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent tanning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods, under normal conditions can lead to the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers, resulting in changes to the skin's microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation (brown spots, uneven skin tone).
[0007] Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary. An effective photoprotection product must protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.
[0008] Numerous photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to counteract the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic and / or inorganic UV filters that function according to their own chemical nature and properties by absorbing, reflecting, or scattering UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic filters and / or water-soluble UV filters combined with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
[0009] Numerous cosmetic compositions designed to limit skin darkening and improve skin tone and evenness have been proposed to date. It is well known in the field of sunscreens that such compositions can be obtained using UV filters, and in particular UVB filters. Some compositions may also contain UVA filters. This filtering system must provide UVB protection in order to limit and control the neosynthesis of melanin that promotes overall pigmentation, but it must also provide UVA protection in order to limit and control the oxidation of existing melanin that leads to skin darkening.
[0010] However, it is extremely difficult to find a composition containing a particular combination of UV filters that would be specially adapted for the photoprotection of the skin and particularly for an improvement in the quality of the skin both in terms of color and its mechanical properties of elasticity.
[0011] Advantageously, this improvement is particularly sought on already pigmented skin in order not to increase either the pigment load in melanin or the structure of the melanin already present in the skin.
[0012] In fact, the majority of organic UV filters consist of aromatic compounds absorbing in the wavelength range between 280 and 370 nm. In addition to their ability to filter solar radiation, the desired photoprotective compounds must also exhibit good cosmetic properties, good solubility in common solvents and particularly in fatty substances such as oils, as well as good photostability, either alone or in combination with other UV filters. They must also be colorless or at least have a color that is cosmetically acceptable to the consumer.
[0013] One of the main drawbacks known to date of these compositions is that these filtering systems have insufficient effectiveness against UV radiation and particularly against long UVA radiation with wavelengths beyond 370 nm in order to control photo-induced pigmentation and its evolution by a UV filtering system over the entire UV spectrum.
[0014] Among all the compounds that have been recommended for this purpose, a An interesting family of UV filters consisting of carbon-based merocyanine derivatives is described in US patent 4195999, application WO2004 / 006878, and document IP COM Journal 4 (4), 16 No. IPCOM000011179D published on 04 / 03 / 2004. These compounds exhibit very good filtration properties in long-wave UVA radiation but have only slightly satisfactory solubility in common solvents, particularly in fatty substances such as oils, and unsatisfactory photostability for some merocyanines.
[0015] In order to find other merocyanins with better solubility in common solvents and improved photostability, application WO2013 / 011094 proposed merocyanins comprising polar groups consisting of hydroxyl and ether functions that exhibit good long-wave UVA filtration efficiency. However, the oil solubility of these particular merocyanins is not yet fully satisfactory and often requires a laborious formulation process. Furthermore, the large quantities of solvent needed to solubilize this type of merocyanin can lead to cosmetic drawbacks such as a sticky and greasy effect upon application.
[0016] There therefore remains a need to improve the solubility of these merocyanins in photo-protective formulations comprising at least one oily phase, while obtaining good cosmetic properties.
[0017] The Applicant made a surprising discovery that by using esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C24 alcohols, it was possible to significantly improve the solubility of these merocyanins in an oily phase. This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
[0018] Thus, in accordance with one of the objects of the present invention, a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, is now proposed comprising at least one merocyanin of formula (1) or (2) which will be defined in detail later and at least one oily phase comprising at least one ester of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C2-C22 and alcohols in C1-C24.
[0019] Furthermore, there is also a need to improve the solubility of merocyanins in the presence of organic filters. Indeed, the addition of additional filters can destabilize compositions containing a merocyanin.
[0020] The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by using C2-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C24 alcohols, it was possible to substantially improve the solubility of these merocyanins in an oily phase even in the presence of additional organic UV filters.
[0021] The Applicant also discovered that the use of these solvents made it possible to obtain good cosmetic properties of the composition comprising the merocyanins, the latter being in particular non-greasy and non-sticky.
[0022] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0023] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above.
[0024] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above.
[0025] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows.
[0026] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Hereinafter, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratinous materials.
[0027] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" means in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
[0028] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0029] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".
[0030] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratinous material. MEROCYANIS
[0031] According to the present invention, the merocyanine compounds according to the invention correspond to the following formulas (1) or (2): [Formula 1] [Formula 2] in which: Ri and R2, independent of each other, are hydrogen; an alkyl group in C1-C22, an alkenyl group in C2-C22, an alcinyl group in C2-C22, these groups being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group or interrupted by at least one -O-; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen atom which links them form a -(CH2)n- ring which may optionally be interrupted by -O- or -NH-; R3 is a -(C=O)OR6 group; or a -(CO)NHR6 group; R6 is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alcinyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being able to be substituted by one or more OH groups; R4 and R5 are hydrogens; or R4 and R5 form a -(CH2)n- ring that can be substituted by an alkyl group at C1-C4 and / or interrupted by one or more -O- or by -NH-; n is a number between 2 and 7; R7 and R8, independent of each other, are hydrogen; an alkyl group in CrC22, an alkenyl group in C2-C22, an alcinyl group in C2-C22, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O and / or substituted by one or more OH; a cycloalkyl group in C3-C22 or a cycloalkenyl group in C3-C22, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more -O-; or R7 and R8 together with the nitrogen that links them form a -(CH2)n- ring which can be interrupted by one or more -O-; R9 and Rio are hydrogen; or R9 and Rio form a -(CH2)n- ring potentially substituted by an alkyl at C1-C4 and / or interrupted by an -O- or -NH-; A is -O- ; or -NH ; Ru is an alkyl group at C1-C22; an alkenyl group at C2-C22; a a C2-C22 alcinyl group; a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O's; or a C1-C22 alkyl group or a C2-C22 alkenyl group which is substituted by a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group being able to be interrupted by one or more -O's.
[0032] Preferably, compounds of formula (1) or (2) have the following characteristics: (I) at least one of the Rb R2 or R6 groups is substituted by a hydroxyl; (II) if one of the Ri designates a hydroxyethyl, R2 does not designate a hydrogen, a methyl or an ethyl or a hydroxyethyl; and if Ri designates hydrogen, R2 is not the l-hydroxy-3-methyl-but-2-yl; (III) if R6 is substituted by one or more OH, one of Ri or R2 is a C4-C22 alkyl group; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen to which they are linked form a piperidyl or morpholinyl radical; (IV) at least one of the radicals R7, R8, or Ru is interrupted by one or more -O-.
[0033] Preferred compounds are those of formulas (1) or (2) where: Ri and R2, independent of each other, are hydrogen; a C4-Ci2 alkyl group; or a C3-Ci2 hydroxyalkyl group; or at least one of Ri or R2 is a C3-Ci2 hydroxyalkyl group; and R3, Ri and R5 have the same meanings as previously indicated.
[0034] The preferred compounds are also those of formula (1) where: R6 is an alkyl group in CrCi2, which can be potentially substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0035] The most preferred compounds are also those of formula (1), where: R6 is an alkyl group in CrCi2, which can be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. one of the radicals Ri or R2 is a C4-C22 alkyl group; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen linking them form a -(CH2)n- ring that can be interrupted by -O- and / or -NH-; and Ri and R5 and n have the same meanings indicated previously.
[0036] The preferred compounds are those of formula (2) where: Ru is a radical -(CH2)mO-Ri2; where R[2 is a Ci-Ci2 alkyl group; or a Ci-C6 alkoxy-Ci-C6 alkyl group m is a number from 1 to 5; and R7, R8, R9, Rio and A have the same meanings as previously indicated.
[0037] The even more preferred compounds are those of formula (1) or (2), where: Ri and R2 on the one hand, and R7 and R8 on the other hand, form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are respectively linked a piperidyl radical or a morpholinyl radical.
[0038] The preferred compounds are also those of formulas (1) and (2), where: R4 and R5 and R9 and R10 respectively form a carbon ring which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0039] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (1), where: Ri and R2 independently of each other are a hydrogen; or an alkyl group in CrC22; or a hydroxyalkyl group in CrC22; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen to which they are bonded form a piperidyl or morpholinyl radical; R3 is a -(C=O)OR6 group; or a -(CO)NHR6 group; R6 is an alkyl group in CrC22, which can be substituted by one or more -OH groups; R4 and R5 are hydrogen; or R4 and R5 are linked together to form a carbon ring that contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0040] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (1), where: Ri and R2 independently of each other are a hydrogen; or a Ci-C22 hydroxyalkyl group; where at least one of the radicals Ri and R2 is a Ci-C22 hydroxyalkyl group; R3 is a -(C=O)OR6 group; or a -(C=O)NHR6 group; R6 is an alkyl group in CrC22; and R4 and R5 are hydrogens; or R4 and R5 are linked together to form a carbon ring which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0041] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (2), where: R7 and R8 independently of each other are a hydrogen or an alkyl group in CrC8, which can be by one or more -O-; A is -O- or -NH; Ru is an alkyl group in CrC22; and R9 and Rio are hydrogen; or R9 and R10 are linked together to form a carbon ring that contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0042] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (2), where: R7 and R8 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded form a morpholinyl or piperidyl radical; A is -O- or -NH; Ru is an alkyl group in CrC22 that can be interrupted by one or more -O-s; and R9 and Rio are hydrogens; or R9 and Rio are bonded together to form a ring carbonaceous which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0043] Even more preferred compounds are those of formula (2), where: Ri i is a radical -(CH2)mO-Ri2, where R12 is a Ci-C4 alkyl group; or a Ci-C4 alkoxy-Ci-C4 alkyl group m is a number from 1 to 3; R7 and R8, independently of each other, are a hydrogen; an alkyl group in CrCi2, which may be interrupted by one or more O's; or R7 and R8 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded form a morpholinyl or pi-peridyl radical; R9 and Rio are hydrogens or together form a carbon ring containing 6 carbon atoms; and A is -O- or -NH.
[0044] The merocyanine compounds of the invention may be in the isomeric geometric form, in particular E / E-, E / Z- or Z / Z.
[0045] Alkyl, cycloalkyl, alkenyl, alkylidene or cycloalkenyl chains can be linear or branched, monocyclic or polycyclic.
[0046] An alkyl group in Ci-C22 is for example a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec.-butyl, isobutyl, tert.-butyl, n-pentyl, 2-pentyl, 3-pentyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, n-hexyl, n-octyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 2-ethylhexyl, nonyl, decyl, n-octadecyl, eicosyl or dodecyl.
[0047] A substituted alkyl group is for example a methoxyethyl, ethoxypropyl, 2-ethylhexyl, hydroxyethyl, chloropropyl, N,N-diethylaminopropyl, cyanoethyl, phenethyl, benzyl, p-tert-butylphenethyl, p-tert-octylphenoxyethyl, 3-(2,4-di-tert-amylphenoxy)-propyl, ethoxycarbonylmethyl-2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethyl or 2-furylethyl.
[0048] A hydroxy-substituted alkyl group is for example a hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, hydroxypentyl, hydroxyhexyl, hydroxyheptyl, hydroxyoctyl, hydroxynonyl or hydroxydecyl.
[0049] An alkenyl group in C2-C22 is for example a linear alkenyl chain in C2-Ci2 or preferably a branched alkenyl C3-Ci2. An alkenyl in C2-C22 is, for example, a vinyl, allyl, 2-propen-2-yl, 2-buten-l-yl, 3-buten-l-yl, l,3-butadien-2-yl, 2-cyclobuten-l-yl, 2-penten-l-yl, 3-penten-2-yl, 2-methyl-l-buten-3-yl, 2-methyl-3-buten-2-yl, 3-methyl-2-buten-l-yl, l,4-pentadien-3-yl, 2-cyclopenten-l-yl, 2-cyclohexen-l-yl, 3-cyclohexen-l-yl, 2,4-cyclohexadien-l-yl, lp-menthen-8-yl, 4(10)-thujèn-10-yl, 2-norbomèn-l-yl, 2,5-norbornadièn-l-yl, 7,7-dimethyl-2,4-norcaradièn-3-yl or the different isomers of hexènyl, octènyl, noènyl, decènyl or dodecènyl.
[0050] A cycloalkyl group in C3-Ci2 is for example a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, trimethylcyclohexyl or preferably a cyclohexyl.
[0051] Examples of merocyanins according to the present invention are listed in Table 1: [Tables 1] Table 1 Compo sé Structure Compo osé Structure 1 2 ................................................................................................................................................. ^■O^lllllliifcllllllli^ IIIIIIIIIIIII^Blillllll 3 1 < 4 111111111111^ 11111111111111:11 5 IISSS^ XKUê^^ llils 6 1111111111111111^:11 ^101^1101101® U , T. :..............O............................................. sBMIIIIIIIIIsll llllllllllllll^lll 11111111111^11111111^ 7 111111111111 0 ■IlilBl^ IlllilBilll! 8 and NQ JC . OH 0 f 9 P <x>i 1 PA OH 'x 'O' Y 1 K0^ 10 ^iiipili^^ ■llll^ liiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 11^1111111111 OÈOÉ:lfcll:l:: 11 |ï:1IIIIIII^|| 12 11111111011 llllll|llllllllll:B^ 13 14 9xxx9:x^ xx&x99 1) < 9^ issssssssg lll^llllllllll^ 15 9991999 i^l 16 |' H llllllll» r iiil|||Éi|ïi 9:X:X^ ^UKI X^Xxx^^^ 17 ïïïïïèàsïïosïïïï ......................................................................?.................................................. 18 fliiiiiiii^ 111111 1111911 lil^BOililiiKiib ^NbNNNNNNNNNNNN^ 20 99 UJ 999999 lllillllllll^ |||j||j||| ^999999 21 îlBiiiiiil SM llllllllli S'M 22 ^^||||f|| r! 9'C< I9^^^9ê9Ê 23 iiiiiiiiiiiii J «r 24 ilililliliililil 9999999 ■llijlflli III................................................. 99999991 25 9999999 ■^llii!!!f 26 slilii!!!||||||||| silliÉllll x999x9^9 ^^9^9999^ 9999999 ^9999991 27 llll» 28 x; X''X. 29 ..................................................................................................................:....................................;................S:.........................................:.................... 30 IgSSI^^ ..................................?» .............................................. lllllll^ll 32 llilill lllljllll llllllllJlïj 33 ||illl iSBiiiii llli 34 ?s«^?ssssfâs???< 1^ iiiio^ ji^i iiiil|liii 35 sïl^PsWsïSïSïSïSïS.....VS. S.,............................................................ < <S^ ïïiOb^OïïïïïOïïïïï 36 P? H T CT^n 37 Éli|| iiIiiisiii iiiiii|jili ........................................................ 38 0 -■^■l IJBJt^ ^-- \ sssssss^s^ 39 —0 40 o S \_ / U P TZ 41 ............................................................. 42 illiiiiiiiliO 43 ilM sss;l®ssssssssss;® 44 OH ))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) ^ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / ^ lllllillllïillllllïM ---...x ||ï|;||||||;||||f|g 45 46 llll^ 47 iiiiiiiiiiiiï^ '3 .......................................................................................................................... ))))))))))j))lf|iBi
[0052] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a family of merocyanins corresponding to the following formula (3) and their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E- or E / Z-, will be used: [Formula 3] in which: H 1 C ] A is -O- or -NH; R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alcinyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O's.
[0053] The merocyanine compounds of the invention can be in their isomeric geometric forms E / E-, E / Z-: [formula 4] [Formula 5] C.. J
[0054] The compounds of formula (3) that are even more preferred are those where: A is -O- ; R is a C1-C22 alkyl, which can be interrupted by one or more O's.
[0055] Among the compounds of formula (3), particular use will be made of those chosen from the following group and their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E-, E / Z-: [Tables 2] 14 " T '" ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 15 |||||i|||iO (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylide ne}ethanamide 25 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 27 1 1 2-methylpropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 29 - 2-butoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 3-methoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 3-ethoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate
[0056] Selon un mode plus particulièrement préféré de l’invention, on utilisera le composé 2-éthoxyéthyle (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)-amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene]ethanoate (25) in its geometric configuration E / E and / or E / Z.
[0057] The E / Z form has the following structure: [Formula 6]
[0058] The E / E form has the following structure: [formula 7]
[0059] The filtering merocyanins according to the invention can be present in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] The compounds of formula (1) and (2) and in particular of formula (3) can be prepared according to known processes, as described for example in J.Org.Chem. USSR (English Translation) 26(8), p. 1562f (1990); J. Heterocycl. Chem. 33(3), p. 763-766 (1996); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 11, p. 1537-1543 (1984); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 3, p. 397-404 (1982); Chem.Heterocycl.Comp. (English Translation) 24(8), 914-919 (1988) and in Synthetic Communications Vol. 33, No. 3, 2003, p 367-371.
[0061] The synthesis of the compounds used in the present invention is also described in US2003 / 0181483A1, WO 0234710, Eur. J. Org. Chem. 2003, 2250-2253, J. Med. Chem. 1996, 39, 1112-1124 and J. Org. Chem., Vol. 37, No. 8, 1972, 1141-1145 as follows: [Formula 8]
[0062] CH-acid vinylogenic compounds are reacted with amide acetals.
[0063] In the document J. Heterocyclic Chem., 27, 1990, 1143-1151, aminoacrylic acid esters or aminoacrylnitriles are governed with ethoxymethylenecyanoacetates in ethanol to form the corresponding compounds of the present invention.
[0064] Compounds of formula (1) or (2), where R4 and R5 on the one hand, or R9 and R10 on the other hand, together form a carbocyclic ring containing 6 carbon atoms, respectively, can be prepared according to the protocols described in Pat. Appl. WO 2007 / 071582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D under the heading "Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-l-ylidene compounds" and in US-A-4,749,643 on col. 13, line 66 - col. 14, line 57 and the references cited therein. DI- OR TRICARBOXYLIC ACID ESTERS
[0065] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C22 di- or tri-carboxylic acid ester and C1-C24 alcohols.
[0066] The C2-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids are in particular selected from citric acid, malic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, isocitric acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably the acids are citric acid and adipic acid, and even more preferably citric acid.
[0067] C1-C24 alcohols are not oxyalkylated. They can be aliphatic, cyclic, or aromatic, having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms. They are notably chosen from phenol, benzyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, methanol, ethanol, propanol, n-butanol, t-butanol, pentanol, hexanol. Preferably, the alcohol(s) are C1-C6 and may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, n-butanol, t-butanol, pentanol, hexanol, and even more preferably from ethanol.
[0068] The C2-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acid ester(s) and C1-C24 alcohol ester(s) can be mono- or poly-esterified.
[0069] By monoesterified, it is understood that only one of the two or three carboxylic acid functions is esterified. By polyesterified, it is understood that at least two carboxylic acid functions are esterified.
[0070] The di- or tricarboxylic acid can be esterified by several different alcohols. Preferably, it is esterified by a single alcohol.
[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester and C1-C24 alcohols, preferably C1-C6. This or these esters may be mono-, di- or tri-esterified.
[0072] Monoesterified means that only one of the three carboxylic acid groups is esterified. Diesterified means that two of the three carboxylic acid groups are esterified. Triesterified means that all three carboxylic acid groups are esterified.
[0073] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester(s) and C1-C6 alcohol ester(s) are tri-esterified.
[0074] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester(s) and C1-C6 alcohol ester(s) are selected from the compounds of the following formula (9): (R1O-CO)CH2-C(R)(OC-OR2)-CH2(OC-OR3) in which: RI, R2 and R3 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a monovalent hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic, cyclic or aromatic, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl radical.
[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, RI, R2, and R3 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably unsubstituted, in the C1-C6 configuration, and in particular a radical selected from among the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, pentyl, and hexyl radicals. Preferably, RI, R2, and R3 are selected independently of each other from among a hydrogen atom and the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, and t-butyl radicals.
[0076] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the radicals RI, R2 and R3 are identical and are chosen from among the alkyl radicals in C1-C6, preferably in C1-C4, and even more preferentially these are ethyl radicals.
[0077] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, R represents a hydroxyl radical.
[0078] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the ester of tricarboxylic acid and C1-C6 alcohols has the following formula: [Formula 10]
[0079] As an example of a C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester and C1-C6 alcohols of formula (10) and INCI name TRIETHYL CITRATE, we will cite that which is marketed under the name CITROFOL AI EXTRA by the company JUNG-BUNZLAUER.
[0080] The di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C24 alcohols as defined above are generally present in the composition according to the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 98% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL ACRYLIC POLYMER
[0081] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B) defined below: [Formula A] [Formula B] in which:
[0082]
[0083]
[0084]
[0085]
[0086]
[0087]
[0088]
[0089] RI, independently of each other, is chosen from alkyl or alkylene radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1, and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer. Preferably, RI consists of alkyl radicals, preferably C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and more preferably stearyl radicals (in Cl8) or behenyl radicals (in C22). Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight. According to a preferred embodiment, all RI groups are behenyl radicals. According to another preferred embodiment, all RI groups are stearyl radicals. Preferably, said weight ratio goes from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably goes from 1:10 to 1:4. Advantageously, the polymeric units present in the polymer consist of units (A) and (B) described previously. The polymer has a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured using gel permeation chromatography, for example, according to the method described in the example below. Preferably, the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40 °C to 70 °C, and preferably from 45 °C to 67 °C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). for example, according to the method described in the example below.
[0090] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer preferably has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60 °C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55 °C.
[0091] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 60 °C to 70 °C, and preferably ranging from 63 °C to 67 °C.
[0092] The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-R1, RI having the meaning described previously, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[0093] Polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.
[0094] Polymerization is described for example in US document 2007 / 0264204.
[0095] The acrylic polymer(s) as defined above may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight and better ranging from 0.2 to 3% by weight. OILY PHASE
[0096] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase.
[0097] For the purposes of the invention, the term "oily phase" means a phase comprising at less an oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
[0098] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0099] The oily phase may include, in addition to the merocyanin filter(s) and optionally the complementary lipophilic filters and the di or tricarboxylic acid ester(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.
[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0101] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more carboxy, ester, ether, or hydroxy functions.
[0102] The term “fluoridated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0103] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0104] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and, in particular, has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). Hydrocarbon oils
[0105] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention include: (i) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and rosehip oils; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; (ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, Benzoate of 2-Ethylphenyl such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, dii-isopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE and linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.
[0106] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils usable according to the invention, glyceride triesters, and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol, are preferred. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, and dicaprylyl carbonate.
[0107] Examples of usable volatile hydrocarbon oils according to the invention include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neo-pentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] We can also mention the alkanes described in the patent applications of the Cognis company WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and (different from at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves derived from coconut or palm oil. Examples include the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis's application WO2008 / 155059. Also noteworthy are n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4), sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97® respectively, as well as their mixtures.
[0109] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, can also be used. In one embodiment, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Silicone oils
[0110] Non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicas.
[0111] Examples of volatile silicone oils include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s), and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0112] One can also mention volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of formula following general: [formula 11] lllllllllllllllllllllllllll where R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and including one or more hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
[0113] Among the oils of general formula (11), the following may be mentioned: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to oils of formula (9) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group. Fluoride oils
[0114] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
[0115] An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in the oil, other fatty substances.
[0116] Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: - a fatty acid chosen from among fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, rice bran wax, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; - a gum chosen from among the silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.
[0117] Preferably, the overall oily phase, including all lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. AQUEOUS PHASE
[0118] The composition according to the invention may in addition comprise at least one aqueous phase.
[0119] The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.
[0120] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may include, for example, water selected from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, water from Vittel, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.
[0121] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] According to a preferred embodiment, ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof may be used in particular.
[0123] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIVES
[0124] Additional UV filters
[0125] The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain one or more complementary UV filters selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, it will consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filter.
[0126] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0127] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.
[0128] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product dissolved in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.
[0129] The complementary organic UV filters are selected in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, particularly those cited in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649;4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EPI33981 and mixtures thereof.
[0130] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.
[0131] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold notably under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.
[0132] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold notably under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
[0133] Para-aminobenzoic compounds: PABA, Ethyl PABA Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold notably under the name "ESCALOL 507®" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "UVINUL P 25®" by BASF.
[0134] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS®" by Symrise, Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL ®" by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS®" by Symrise.
[0135] BB-diphenvlacrvlate compounds: Octocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL N 539®" by BASF, Etocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL N 35®" by BASF.
[0136] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400®" by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D 50®" by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL M 40®" by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS 40®" by BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11®" by Norquay, Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®" by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name* UVINUL DS 49® by BASF, Benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus ®" or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus B®" by BASF, 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form.
[0137] Benzylidene camphor compounds: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD®" by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300®" by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL®" by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO®" by CHIMEX, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX®" by CHIMEX, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW®" by CHIMEX.
[0138] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold notably under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232®" by MERCK.
[0139] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN AP®" by Haarmann and REIMER.
[0140] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole®" by RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0141] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds: Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, notably in solid form as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 µm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 µm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 µm, with at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant of the structure CnH2n+10(C6H1O5)xH, where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H1O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2,303,549, notably sold under the trade name "TINOSORB M®" by BASF, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size that varies from 0.02 to 2 pm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0,02 to 1 pm in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392.
[0142] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula: - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Me- y T r - < <7- 'N Thoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "TINOSORB S®" by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL T 150®" by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB ®" by SIGMA 3V, - 2,4,6-tris-(4'-aminobenzalmalonate of dineopentyl)-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris-(4'-aminobenzalmalonate of diisobutyl)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzoate of n-butyl)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzalmalonate of dineopentyl)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate of n-butyl)-s-triazine, - Symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of particles from 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, - triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.
[0143] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN MA®" by Symrise.
[0144] Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
[0145] Benzalmalonate compounds: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX ®" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.
[0146] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Compounds: -1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0147] Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3 V.
[0148] The preferred organic filters are chosen from: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-4 Benzophenone-5, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine, 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4’-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15, 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène, 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine, and their mixtures.
[0149] The particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl) 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0150] The inorganic UV filters used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.
[0151] They may in particular be chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.
[0152] Such metallic oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, we can mention the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK and DEGUSSA.
[0153] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0154] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0155] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the "SUNVEIL®" product from the company IKEDA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA, - of silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14 / 4" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, - of alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from the company UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK, - of silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ®" from the company TAYCA, - of alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®" from the company TAYCA, - iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®" from the company TAYCA, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351®" from the company TAYCA, - of silica and alumina and treated with silicone such as the products "MICRO-TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" from the company TAYCA, - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS®" from the company TITAN KOGYO, - of silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, - of alumina and treated with silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)®" from the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, - triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from the company TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA, - of sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICRO-TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®" from the company TAYCA. - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805®" by the company DEGUSSA SILICES, - TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by the company CARDRE, - TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HY-DROPHOBIC®" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES, - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by CRODA, - TiO2 coated with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD from CRODA), - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50, - TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.
[0156] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, these doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersing agents, such as a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester like TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles includes at least one dispersing agent selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, as the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by the company CRODA. .
[0157] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by WACKHER under the name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW®", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".
[0158] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; - those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis; - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by the company Nanophase Technologies.
[0159] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethyllihydrogenesiloxane); - those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the company Nanophase Technologies (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate); - those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAL TOPERSION Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated by silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); - those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated by silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethyl-siloxane); - those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone); - those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); - those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohol benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0160] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC.
[0161] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R®)", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name "TY-220®".
[0162] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345®", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by the company BASF under the name "TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE®".
[0163] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular dioxide of titanium and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.
[0164] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.
[0165] The additional UV filters according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, and in particular from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additives
[0166] The composition according to the present invention may further include conventional cosmetic adjuvants, in particular selected from organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwit-terionic or amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
[0167] Among the organic solvents, we can mention alcohols other than C1-C4 mono-alkanols as defined above and in particular short-chain C2-C8 polyols, such as glycerin, diols such as caprylyl glycol, pentanediol-1,2, propanediol, butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
[0168] Examples of thickeners include carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen polymers such as Pemulen TRI® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / Ci3-i4 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by Seppic; 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS®" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers and . hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by SEPPIC; cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as Xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones and their mixtures.
[0169] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0170] Examples of alkalizing agents include ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides.
[0171] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more alkalizing agents selected from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.
[0172] In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and 11 approximately, and even more particularly from 5.5 to 8.
[0173] Among the active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials such as skin, lips, scalp, hair, eyelashes or nails, examples include vitamins and their derivatives or precursors, alone or in mixtures; antioxidants; free radical scavengers; anti-pollution agents; self-tanning agents; anti-glycation agents; soothing agents; deodorant agents; essential oils; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation; agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation; agents that stimulate keratinocyte proliferation; muscle relaxants; cooling agents; firming agents; mattifying agents; depigmenting agents; pro-pigmenting agents; keratolytic agents; desquamating agents; moisturizing agents; anti-inflammatory agents;Antimicrobial agents; slimming agents; agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells; insect repellents; antagonists of substances P or CRGP; anti-hair loss agents; anti-wrinkle agents; anti-aging agents.
[0174] A person skilled in the art will choose the said active ingredient(s) according to the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails.
[0175] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible complementary compound(s) mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the properties The inherent advantages of compositions conforming to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s). Pharmaceutical Forms
[0176] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can in particular be in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / W, W / W / W or W / O / W) such as a cream, a lotion or a cream-gel.
[0177] They may also be in anhydrous form, such as an oil. An "anhydrous composition" is defined as a composition containing less than 1% water by weight, or even less than 0.5% water, and in particular one that is water-free, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. They may also be packaged in aerosol form and be presented as a foam or spray.
[0178] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the blade or propeller type, rotor-stator and HHP.
[0179] To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio >25), it is possible to carry out the dispersion in concentrated phase and then dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase.
[0180] It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with droplet sizes that can go down to 100 nm.
[0181] Emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or W / O).
[0182] Examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols like the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles), and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by Goldschmidt, may be used. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, advantageously selected from the group comprising alkyl polyol esters.
[0183] One can also mention non-siliconized emulsifying surfactants, in particular the alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.
[0184] Examples of alkylated polyol esters include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.
[0185] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
[0186] For O / W emulsions, examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants include polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters (particularly polyoxyethylated and / or polyoxypropylated); oxyalkylated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters (particularly polyoxyethylated and / or polyoxypropylated), possibly in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; Fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, marketed for example by the Henkel company under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®,cetostearyl glucoside, possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt, and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92 / 06778.
[0187] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may include a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
[0188] The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for the makeup of the skin and / or lips.
[0189] Another object of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular skincare products, sun protection products and makeup products.
[0190] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as a makeup product.
[0191] Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material consisting of applying to the surface of said keratinous material at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0192] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as skincare and / or sun protection products for the face and / or body with a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as lotions, creams of varying textures, gel-creams, and pastes. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and be presented as a foam or spray.
[0193] The compositions according to the invention, in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions conforming to the invention, are applied to the skin or hair as fine particles by means of pressurization devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers," aerosol containers comprising a propellant, and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in US patents 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.
[0194] Aerosol compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluoro compounds dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, and trichlorofluoromethane. These are preferably present in quantities ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0195] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic set comprising: (i) a container delimiting one or more compartments(d), said container being closed by a closing element and possibly not watertight; and ii) a makeup and / or skincare composition according to the invention arranged inside said compartment(s).
[0196] The container may, for example, be in the form of a pot or a case.
[0197] The closing element may be in the form of a lid comprising a mounted hood movable by translation or pivoting relative to the container housing the or said makeup and / or skincare compositions. EXAMPLES
[0198] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients in the compositions are given as a percentage by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0199] Example A1: Preparation of compound (14) [Formula 14]
[0200] 122.23 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 75.45 grams of ethyl cyanoacetate in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.
[0201] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used. [Tables 3] Example Base Solvent Example ALI DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A 1.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A 1.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A 1.4 3-Methoxypropylamine tert-amyl alcohol Example A 1.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A 1.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A 1.7 Solvent-free 3-Methoxypropylamine Example A 1.8 N-Morpholine isopropanol
[0202] The completion of the alkylation reaction can be monitored, for example, by methods such as TLC, GC or HPLC.
[0203] 162.30 grams of compound (14) are obtained in the form of a brown oil.
[0204] After crystallization, the product is obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0205] Melting point: 92.7 °C.
[0206] Example A2: Preparation of compound (15) [Formula 15] H
[0207] 101.00 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 86.00 grams of 2-cyano-N-(3-methoxy-propyl)-acetamide in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.
[0208] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used. [Tables 4] Example Solvent Base Example A2.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A2.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A2.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A2.4 3-Methoxypropylamine tert-amyl alcohol Example A2.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A2.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A2.7 3-Methoxypropylamine solvent-free
[0209] The crude product (15) is obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.
[0210] After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: toluene / methanol) 99 / 1), 81.8 grams of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0211] Melting point: 84.7-85.3 °C.
[0212] Example A3: Preparation of compound (27)
[0213] 13.09 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 10.12 grams of isobutyl cyanoacetate in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.
[0214] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used. Example Solvent Base Example A3.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A3.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A3.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A3.4 N-Methylmorpholine tert-amyl alcohol Example A3.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A3.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A3.7 3-Methoxypropylamine solvent-free
[0215] 15.97 grams of crude product (27) are obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.
[0216] After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: toluene / acetone), 13.46 grams of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0217] Melting point: 96.3 °C.
[0218] Example A4: Preparation of compound (25) [formula 25]
[0219] 148.4 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 130.00 grams of 2-ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and a solvent.
[0220] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the table below are used. [Tableauxô] Example Solvent Base Example A4.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A4.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A4.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A4.4 N-Methylmorpholine tert-amyl alcohol Example A4.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A4.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A4.7 Solvent-free 3-Methoxypropylamine
[0221] Example of preparation of acrylic polymers:
[0222] Determination of molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):
[0223] The sample is prepared by dissolving the polymer at 10 mg / ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54 °C for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. Upon visual inspection, the sample appears to be completely dissolved in the solvent.
[0224] The prepared sample was analyzed using two 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and refractive index detection. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The calibration standards used were the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.
[0225] Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons were used for calibration.
[0226] The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RL detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the different molecular weights was done using the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.
[0227] Determination of melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC)
[0228] This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182, and the DSC calibration is performed according to ASTM E 9672.
[0229] Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer I):
[0230] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two additional necks, 175 g behenyl acrylate, 25 g 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added for 60 minutes at 80 °C to 40 g isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system by means of a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, and then 1 g of hydrogen peroxide was added. The reaction was carried out at 110 °C and continued for 60 minutes. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C, a jet of demineralized water was added, and the mixture was stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
[0231] Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g / mol, Mw = 21000, Mw / Mn = 2.8
[0232] Melting point: 65 °C
[0233] Stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 2):
[0234] In a 4-necked bottle equipped with a side-blade stirrer, a thermometer Internally, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two additional necks, 155 g behenyl acrylate, 45 g 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added to 50 g isopropanol for 90 minutes at 80 °C under stirring after removing oxygen from the system using nitrogen purging for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, and 1 g dilauryl peroxide was added, and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125 °C. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C, and a stream of demineralized water was added and stirred. The water was removed by distillation under empty.
[0235] Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g / mol, Mw = 19000, Mw / Mn = 2.6
[0236] Melting point: 49 °C
[0237] Examples of formulations
[0238] Solubility assessment protocol
[0239] The solubility of merocyanin in oily solutions can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically. Merocyanin is considered soluble if, at room temperature, the solution appears clear and translucent to the naked eye, and does not show any visible crystals under a microscope in white or polarized light (20x to 40x objective).
[0240] In the following examples, solubility is evaluated macroscopically. It is evaluated at room temperature on the day the solution is prepared and then over time. During this time period, the solutions are kept at temperature room temperature or at 4°C.
[0241] Examples 1 to 4: oily solutions
[0242] The following solutions were prepared according to the process below. [Paintings?] Ingredients 1 (invention) 2 (invention) 3 (not invention) 4 (not invention) Compound (25) 5 10 5 5 TRIETHYL CITRATE (CITROFOL AI EXTRA from JUNG-BUNZLAUER) 95 90 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE - - 95 - TRIS (PPG-3 BENZYL) CITRATE (CROMLLIENT ESP from CRODA) 95 Solubility at t0 soluble soluble insoluble soluble Solubility at 48h at room temperature soluble soluble insoluble insoluble
[0243] Examples 5 to 9: Ingredients 5 (invention) 6 (comparative) BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 4 4 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 2 2 BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 3.5 3.5 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 4.5 4.5 METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CY-CLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE 1 1 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE - 12 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE - - TRIETHYL CITRATE 12 - Stability 1 week at 4°C No crystals Crystals Ingredients 7 (invention) 8 (invention) 9 (comparative) BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 4 4 4 DROMETRIZOLE TRI-SILOXANE 2 2 2 BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 3.5 3.5 3.5 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 4.5 4.5 4.5 METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACE TATE 1 1 1 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE - 6 6 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 6 - 6 TRIETHYL CITRATE 6 6 - Stability 1 week at 4°C No crystals No crystals Crystals Method of preparing the oils:
[0244] The compositions described in examples 1 and 9 are prepared as follows: the filters and oils are introduced successively into a container before being stirred using a magnetic stirrer and heated from 80 to 90 °C for between 10 minutes and 1 hour, until the merocyanin is dissolved.
[0245] The results obtained show that the tricarboxylic acid ester according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the solubility of merocyanin even in the presence of additional UV filters.
[0246] Examples 10, 11 and 12: Emulsions Phase Ingredients 10 (invention) Al WATER QSP 100 Al Preservatives QS Al PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3 Al DISODIUM EDTA 0.05 A POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 1 A SODIUM COCOYL SARCOSINATE 1 A TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID 6 B1 STEARIC ACID 2 B1 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 2 B1 CETYL ALCOHOL 1 B1 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SAR-COSINATE 10 B1 TRIETHYL CITRATE 5 B1 PEG-6 5 B1 METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CY- CLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETA TE 3 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 1 B1 DROMETRIZOLE TRI-SILOXANE 5 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENO L METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 1.5 B1 OCTOCRYLENE 5 B2 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 4 B3 TRIETHANOL AMINE QS pH 6.7 B3 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 C DIMETHICONE 3.5 C ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.5 C XANTHAN GUM 0.1 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 3
[0247]
[0248] Method for preparing emulsion 10 The aqueous phase A is prepared by mixing all the raw materials at 65 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B is mixed in several stages: phase B1 is mixed at 80 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B2 is then introduced at 75 °C, followed by phase B3 at 65 °C. The emulsion is prepared by introducing phase B into phase A under vigorous stirring for 10 minutes at 65 °C. Then, phase C is introduced at 55 °C and allowed to homogenize for 5 minutes. Phase D is then introduced at 25 °C. [Tableauxll] Phase Ingrédient 11 (invention) A EAU QSP 100 A TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DI- SUCCINATE 0,31 A Conservateurs QS A PROPANEDIOL 3 A GLYCERIN 3 A TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID 1 A ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 2 A PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID 1 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 4 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL ME- THOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 4,5 B1 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 0,5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 1,5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 4 B1 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX 1 B1 C12-22ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER 1 B1 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 4 B1 TRIETHYL CITRATE 6 B1 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 4 B1 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 6 B1 METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLO- HEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYA- NOACETATE 1,5 B2 TOCOPHEROL 1 C XANTHAN GUM 0,1 C HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0,1 C ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0,15 D TRIETHANOLAMINE QS pH 6,9 E OXIDIZED STARCH ACETATE 1 F ALCOHOL DENAT. 5
[0249] Méthode de la préparation de l’émulsion 11
[0250] The aqueous phase A is prepared by mixing all the raw materials at 65 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B is mixed in several stages: phase B1 is mixed at 80 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B2 is then introduced at 65 °C. The emulsion is prepared by introducing phase B into phase A under vigorous stirring for 10 minutes at 65 °C. The emulsion is then cooled to 35 °C, while maintaining stirring, and then phase C is introduced (stirring for 10 minutes). Phase D is then added, followed by phase E, under stirring. Finally, phase D is introduced at 25 °C. The final emulsion is characterized by droplets ranging from 1 µm to 20 µm. Phase Ingrédients 12 (invention) A EAU QSP 100 A TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DI- SUCCINATE 0,3 A PROPANEDIOL 3 A GLYCERIN 3 A TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID 1 A TRIETHANOL AMINE QS pH 6,5 B1 C12-22ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER 2 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL ME- THOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 4,5 B1 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 1 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 4,5 B1 HOMOSALATE 5 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 B1 METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLO- HEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYA- NOACETATE 1 B1 TRIETHYL CITRATE 5 B1 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 5 B1 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 2 B2 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0,05 B2 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0,1 B3 Conservateurs QS B3 TOCOPHEROL 1 C ALCOHOL DENAT. 5
[0251] Méthode de préparation de l’émulsion 12
[0252] The aqueous phase A is prepared by mixing all the raw materials at 65 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B is mixed in several stages: phase B1 is mixed at 80 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B2 is then added, followed by phase B3 at 65 °C. The emulsion is prepared by introducing phase B into phase A under vigorous stirring for 10 minutes at 65 °C. The emulsion is then cooled to 25 °C, while maintaining stirring, and then phase C is introduced. The final emulsion is characterized by droplets ranging from 1 µm to 20 µm.< / x>
Claims
Demands
1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising: a) at least one merocyanin corresponding to the following formula (3), as well as their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E or E / Z: [Formula 3] in which: A is -O- or -NH; R is an alkyl group CrC22, an alkenyl group C2-C22, an alcinyl group C2-C22, a cycloalkyl group C3-C22, or a cycloalkenyl group C3-C22, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O groups; and b) at least one oily phase comprising at least one C1-C6 tricarboxylic acid and alcohol ester having the following formula: (R1O-CO)CH2-C(R)(OC-OR2)-CH2(OC-OR3) in which: RI, R2 and R3 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a monovalent hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic, cyclic or aromatic, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl radical.
2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the merocyanins of formula (3) are selected from the following compounds, as well as their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E or E / Z: [Tables2] 14 ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate 15 1 H (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylide ne}ethanamide 25 SSSSSSSSSSSSSï^SÏSS^ 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 27 2-methylpropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 29 2-butoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 31 3-methoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 37 ^silllllllll 11..................................................lBOlli« .....................................................................................................................................1 3-ethoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate [Revendication 6] [Revendication 7] [Revendication 8]
9. in which: RI, independently of each other, is chosen from among the alkyl or alkylene radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals chosen from among the stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1; and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, the polymer having an average number molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol. Composition according to claim 5 wherein in the additional polymer RI consists of an alkyl radical, preferably a C16-C22 alkyl radical, and more preferably a behenyl or stearyl radical. Composition according to any one of claims 5 and 6 wherein in the additional polymer at least 70% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl or stearyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 7 wherein in the additional polymer all RI groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 8 wherein in the additional polymer said weight ratio ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably from 1:10 to 1:
4.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 9 wherein the additional polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn of 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol.
11. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 10 wherein the additional polymer has a melting temperature from 40 °C to 70 °C, and preferably from 45 °C to 67 °C.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 11 wherein in the additional polymer at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl radicals, and said additional polymer has a melting point of 40 to 60 °C, and preferably of 45 to 55 °C.
13. Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 12 wherein in the additional polymer at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, and said additional polymer has a melting point of 60 °C to 70 °C, and preferably of 63 °C to 67 °C
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 further comprising one or more additional UV filters.
15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.