Free dispersion of surfactants

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the average size of the solid particles being between 1 and 100 micrometers. The cosmetic composition is free of surfactants. The rate or kinetics of the mixture's evolution are virtually zero, and its appearance is macroscopically homogeneous over time. The dispersion is stabilized by adjusting the viscosity of the aqueous phase and solidifying the finely dispersed oily phase.

Description

Title of the invention: Free dispersion of surfactants

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. The cosmetic composition is free of surfactants. The rate or kinetics of the mixture's evolution are virtually zero, and its appearance is macroscopically homogeneous over time. The dispersion is stabilized by adjusting the viscosity of the aqueous phase, by solidifying the finely dispersed oil phase in a solid to pasty form up to 55°C, and optionally by adjusting the respective densities of the aqueous and oil phases to close values.

[0002] Examples of cosmetic compositions of the invention have 100% natural origin percentages calculated according to ISO16128, by selecting only ingredients which themselves have 100% natural origin percentages.

[0003] The term "dispersion" as used according to the invention characterizes a fragmented dispersed phase that is not miscible with the continuous dispersing phase.

[0004] The oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets or fine particles with dimensions on the order of 1-100 micrometers. The dispersion thus formed has a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, but a microscopically heterogeneous one. For the remainder of the description of the invention, the oily phase may also be referred to as the "grease phase".

[0005] Cosmetic compositions based on so-called "oil-in-water" or "direct" dispersions, corresponding to an oil phase emulsified in an aqueous phase, are very widely marketed. They include, among other things, an oil phase, an aqueous phase, one or more surfactants to stabilize the emulsion formed, one or more aqueous gelling agents to suspend the droplets and prevent phase separation by gravity, creaming, or sedimentation, possibly a fatty substance such as a fatty alcohol to give consistency to the product by forming a microscopic lamellar structure, and one or more solid fatty substances such as a butter or a wax to thicken the droplets of the oil phase and give consistency to the product.

[0006] Cosmetic compositions based on direct emulsions have a sensory experience that is well accepted by consumers; the aqueous phase dries quickly, and the oily phase, present as fine droplets, spreads over the application surface and penetrates the superficial layers of the skin. The sensory experience can be adjusted by selecting ingredients according to the desired application, such as a sunscreen composition, a light day cream composition, or a richer night cream composition.

[0007] Cosmetic compositions based on direct emulsions, however, have the following drawbacks: they are not very resistant to water contact because the oily phase deposited on the skin spontaneously redisperses in the water due to the surfactants used to emulsify the oily phase. This is problematic in the case of sunscreen compositions, hand moisturizers, and makeup compositions for the eyes, lips, and face.

[0008] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not include surfactants. The aqueous phase of the composition evaporates after application to the skin. The oily phase, distributed over the application surface, does not disperse or rinse off upon contact with water because it is free of surfactants. This is particularly advantageous for makeup or sunscreen compositions, as it provides better adhesion to the skin. This oily phase can, however, be washed off with cleansing products containing surfactants, such as makeup removers, shower gels, or soaps. The cosmetic compositions described in the invention do not contain anionic, cationic, or nonionic surfactants.Water-in-oil emulsions, also known as indirect emulsions, in which the aqueous phase is finely dispersed to sub-micrometer sizes, are sometimes preferred for cosmetic applications such as foundation makeup to improve product adherence to the skin. However, these emulsions tend to have a rather oily feel. The compositions of the invention therefore provide an application feel similar to that of a direct emulsion, with a pronounced cooling effect, and adherence to the skin equivalent to that of an indirect emulsion.

[0009] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are particularly stable because emulsion destabilizing phenomena such as coalescence or ripening are limited, primarily due to the fact that the droplets, also called oil phase particles, are solid at 20°C and solid to pasty up to 55°C. The compositions formed are suspensions rather than emulsions in terms of formulation, the dispersed phase being in a solid rather than a liquid state. Throughout this description, the physical states of the materials at different temperatures are given at atmospheric pressure. The term "coalescence" as used according to the invention refers to the breaking of the film between two droplets, resulting in a larger droplet. The term "ripening" as used according to the invention refers to the exchange of contents from the smaller droplets to the larger droplets.The fact that the droplets are in a solid state therefore limits these coalescence and maturation phenomena, by slowing down the diffusion of their contents, and by preventing the merging of two droplets.

[0010] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are particularly stable because the phenomena of emulsion destabilization such as creaming or sedimentation The effects of using a gelling agent in the aqueous phase are limited. Depending on the gelling agent or mixtures of gelling agents used, and their concentrations, it is possible to obtain mixtures that can always flow under their own weight, or mixtures ranging from soft and ductile to hard and brittle, and exhibiting no flow in a stable state unless mechanically stressed. The gelled aqueous phase suspends the oil phase droplets, preventing them from rising or settling. Ideally, the ingredients of the oil phase and the ingredients of the aqueous phase are chosen so that their densities are similar.

[0011] The stability of the dispersions of the invention arises from the solid to pasty state of the dispersed oil phase droplets, from the increase in the viscosity of the aqueous phase through the use of a gelling agent, possibly combined with adjusting the densities of the two phases to close values. This emulsion stabilization strategy differs from Pickering emulsions, which are stabilized by solid particles positioned at the interfaces between the aqueous and oil phases, as an alternative to surfactant molecules. The compositions of the invention can be formed with or without solid particles. Solid particles can be added, such as pigments for coloring the skin, mineral filters for sun protection, or powders to positively modify the sensory experience upon application.The solid particles are added for a purpose other than stabilizing the dispersions, and no differences in stability were observed between the compositions of the invention depending on whether or not they contain solid particles. The compositions of the invention are therefore different from the compositions described, for example, in French patent FR2995784A1, whose emulsion is stabilized by insoluble silicate particles. The compositions of the invention are also different from the compositions described in French patent FR2845287A1, whose emulsions are stabilized by a gelling copolymer, a glyceryl acylate, and also by phospholipids, which therefore have surfactant properties.The compositions of the invention differ from those described in patent WO2012 / 012857, which describes surfactant-free emulsions whose stabilization method relies on the use of acrylate copolymers composed of hydrophilic polymer chains and hydrophobic polymer chains. The compositions of the invention also differ from those described in patent US5643555, which describes surfactant-free emulsions whose stabilization method relies on the use of polyalkylsilsesquioxane particles, and whose emulsion consists of an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. The compositions of the invention are distinct from those described in patent FR3098113A1, which consist of droplet aggregates, the method of obtaining which also relies on the use of an anionic polymer such as a carbomer and a cationic polymer such as amodimethicone. The droplets illustrated in patent FR3098113A1 are spherical and aggregated, unlike the droplets described here, which are free from each other.

[0012] The cosmetic compositions of the invention exhibit, quite surprisingly, a pronounced cooling effect when applied to the skin. This cooling effect is more pronounced for the cosmetic compositions of the invention that do not contain surfactants, compared to cosmetic compositions that are identical in all respects but contain surfactants. This is attributed to a shorter drying time for the compositions of the invention, which is also felt during use. Since water evaporation is endothermic, it absorbs heat from the environment, primarily the skin, to change from a liquid to a gaseous state. This effect is attributed to the absence of surfactants in the formula, which means that the water is less bound to the other less volatile ingredients of the compositions of the invention and is more readily evaporated. This shorter evaporation time results in a more pronounced cooling effect.

[0013] Characterization of the microscopic structures of the compositions

[0014] The compositions are observed using a Motic DM-1802 optical microscope equipped with a 3.0 megapixel high-resolution camera. The images are acquired using Motic Image Plus 2.0 software. The compositions of the invention can be observed at three different magnifications: 40, 100, and 400. The droplet sizes can be measured using the software, which has been pre-calibrated when visible, and are on the order of micrometers. Composition stability

[0015] The compositions are stabilized the day after their preparation. Stability studies are carried out at 4°C, 45°C, and 55°C. Samples are prepared in 30 mL glass pillboxes and placed in FALC ICT 120 incubators. A control is kept at room temperature. The developed compositions are then observed and compared at regular one-week intervals. The sensory characteristics and general appearance of the compositions are compared between the different temperatures. The physicochemical phenomena that may occur within the different compositions are recorded by sensory analysis, microscopic observation, viscosity measurement, and pH measurement. Viscosity of the compositions

[0016] The viscosity of the different compositions of the invention varies depending on the ingredients selected, their percentages, and the mixing process. Viscosity is measured at room temperature and atmospheric pressure using a Brookfield RVT viscometer. The selected speed is 10 rpm. The impeller is selected according to the viscosity of the product. All viscosities are measured on 100 g samples, in the same format. The glass container allows for reliable comparison of the viscosities of different compositions. The measurement is taken over a one-minute interval; the value displayed on the device is recorded once it has stabilized, and the viscosity is expressed in mPa·s. pH measurement

[0017] The pH of the aqueous phases of the compositions is measured using a Hanna pH 209 pH meter. Cosmetic composition

[0018] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are characterized by an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the composition being free of surfactants and containing at least one polysaccharide-based gelling agent in the aqueous phase, at least one oil, and at least one fat having a melting point above 30°C. The oily phase is dispersed as fine solid droplets with dimensions on the order of 1-100 micrometers. The dispersion thus formed has a macroscopically homogeneous but microscopically heterogeneous appearance. This is illustrated in [Fig. 1], which shows frozen droplets in suspension. The droplet shapes obtained are mostly indefinite. This is explained by the fact that the droplets solidify upon cooling the mixture while stirring. Once the mixture has solidified and stirring has stopped, the droplets retain these indefinite shapes.The particles in the oil phase are solid at 20°C and solid to pasty up to 55°C. The droplets generally formed in oil-in-water emulsions containing surfactants and a liquid oil phase at 20°C are spherical in shape and have dimensions on the order of 1-10 micrometers.

[0019] Several parameters influencing droplet size are adjusted to obtain the expected product. These parameters include, for example, the rotation speed of the agitator, the geometry of the container and the agitator, the viscosity and composition of the two phases, the temperature of the oil phase, the temperature of the aqueous phase, and the incorporation rate of the oil phase into the aqueous phase.

[0020] The resulting product, composed of oil phase droplets suspended in an aqueous gel, is then cooled with or without agitation. This cooling is achieved by any necessary and suitable means, such as open air cooling for small volumes, immersing the container in a cold bath, circulating a refrigerant liquid through a double jacket containing the mixture, or moving the container to a cold environment such as a refrigerator or freezer of appropriate dimensions. After the mixture has cooled, the oil phase droplets solidify, forming solid to pasty particles at temperatures below 55°C. This is characterized by an increase in the viscosity of the compositions. Composition of the aqueous phase

[0021] The aqueous phase is composed mainly of water in proportions between 1% and 99%, preferably between 40% and 97%, and in particular between 70% and 95% by weight.

[0022] The water may be demineralized or not, from a natural source, or floral water. The high water content among the other ingredients of the aqueous phase ensures easy spreading and a refreshing feel upon application of the compositions of the invention. The aqueous phase contains a gelling agent to stabilize the dispersion, preservatives when the composition is susceptible to microbial contamination, optionally one or more glycols to extend the application time and provide moisturizing properties, optionally one or more sunscreens, optionally one or more pigments, and optionally one or more active ingredients. Conservatives

[0023] The aqueous phase contains preservatives, and in one embodiment, preservatives coupled to other molecules with antimicrobial efficacy. These include glycols, glycerin esters, essential oils, certain plant extracts, peptides, organic acids, and their associated salts. The preservatives and preservative aids are ideally chosen to be compatible with the other ingredients, particularly the aqueous phase gelling agents, so as not to affect the viscosity of the aqueous gel. These glycols may be, for example, but are not limited to, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol. Glycols with longer carbon chains, such as caprylyl glycol and decylene glycol, are not included in the invention because they have certain surfactant properties, although this is not their primary function.Some glycols with surfactant properties, such as caprylyl glycol, also have irritant potential. For the same reason, glycerin esters are excluded from the invention, as they exhibit surfactant properties; this is notably the case for ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, and glyceryl undecylenate.

[0024] Essential oils with antimicrobial properties may be incorporated into the compositions; these include, for example, but are not limited to, cinnamon essential oil, clove essential oil, eucalyptus essential oil, lavender essential oil, thyme essential oil, rosemary essential oil, tea tree essential oil, and citronella essential oil. Plant extracts with antimicrobial properties may include, for example, but are not limited to, extracts of tree bark such as aspen or birch, and blackcurrant extracts.

[0025] Organic acids and their associated salts may include, for example, but not limited to, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, p-anisic acid, and levulinic acid. Aqueous gelling agents

[0026] The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the aqueous phase contains one or more gelling agents, the proportion of gelling agents in relation to the aqueous phase being between 0.01% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5%, and in particular between 0.5% and 1% by weight.

[0027] Among aqueous gelling agents, anionic polymers such as polyacrylates (sodium polyacrylate, acrylic acid, carbomer) and polyacrylate derivatives can be used.Natural gelling agents based on polysaccharides and their derivatives are preferred, for example, but not limited to, cellulose gum, konjac gum (glucomannan), xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, biosaccharide derivatives such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2, biosaccharide gum-4, tara gum (Caesalpinia spinosa gum), locust bean gum (Ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum), tamarind gum (Tamarindus indica seed polysaccharide), acacia gum (Acacia senegal gum), natto gum, guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum) and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), and carrageenans. (carrageenan), cellulose (cellulose gum) and its derivatives such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose.Starches of various origins and their derivatives can be used, such as potato starch (solanum tuberosum (potato) starch), maize starch (zea mays (corn) starch), tapioca starch and starch derivatives such as sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch.

[0028] The viscosity of the aqueous gel can also be adjusted by modifying the pH using acids or bases, when the gelling agent is sensitive to this. This is particularly the case for anionic gelling agents such as polyacrylates and polyacrylate derivatives.

[0029] The viscosity of the aqueous gel can also be adjusted by modifying the salinity of the medium, when the gelling agent is sensitive to it. This is particularly the case for gelling agents such as carrageenans. Fatty alcohols

[0030] The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase may contain one or more fatty alcohols having melting points above 40°C, of carbon chain lengths between 16 and 34 carbon atoms, the proportion of fatty alcohols relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 50%, preferably between 5% and 40%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight.

[0031] The preferred fatty alcohols for the compositions of the invention are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. These are introduced while hot with the oil phase during emulsion formation. They form lamellar structures in the aqueous phase when the compositions are cooled, separately from the oil phase. The cosmetic compositions of the invention containing these fatty alcohols have higher viscosities and are richer in terms of sensory experience upon application. The cosmetic compositions containing these fatty alcohols also offer the benefits of dispersion without the surfactants concerned by the invention: they provide a cooling effect and improved hold on the skin, including water resistance. Oily phase

[0032] The compositions include a dispersed oily phase which may be composed of one or more liquid oils at 20°C, one or more fats having a melting point above 30°C, one or more sunscreens, one or more pigments or other coloured ingredients, one or more powders allowing modification of the sensory or appearance of the product, a perfume. Oils

[0033] The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase is composed mainly of one or more liquid oils at 20°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of oils relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 30% and 95%, and in particular between 50% and 90% by weight.

[0034] The oils may be oils of vegetable origin, typically composed of triglycerides.These include, but are not limited to, almond oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil), apricot kernel oil (Prunus armeniaca kernel oil), argan oil (Argania spinosa oil), avocado oil (Persea gratissima oil), baobab oil (Adansonia digitata seed oil), camelina oil (Camelina sativa seed oil), castor oil (Ricinus communis seed oil), coconut oil (Cocos nucifera oil), grapeseed oil (Vitis vinifera seed oil), hemp seed oil (Cannabis sativa seed oil), meadowfoam seed oil (Limnanthes alba seed oil), macadamia nut oil (Macadamia temifolia seed oil), oat oil (Avena sativa kernel oil), raspberry seed oil (Rubus idaeus seed oil), rose oil (Rosa damascena flower oil), and sesame seed oil. (sesamum indicum seed oil), olive oil (olea europaea fruit oil), sunflower oil (helianthus annuus seed extract), hazelnut oil. (Corylus avellana seed oil). Among the vegetable oils composed of monoesters, we can mention jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil). Squalene, isolated from olive oil, and squalane, derived from squalene, can also be used.

[0035] The oils can be of mineral origin, derived from petroleum, synthetic. These include, but are not limited to, paraffin oils (paraffinum liquidum) and their derivatives, hydrogenated polybutenes, alkanes of varying carbon chain lengths, from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, among them isohexadecane, isododecane, isoeicosane, C13-15 alkane, C14-22 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C18-21 alkane, C21-28 alkane, and C9-12 alkane. Linear or cyclic silicone oils and their derivatives, such as caprylyl methicone, dimethicone, methicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone, lauryl methicone, lauryl phenylpropyl methicone, and cyclomethicone, are also included. The oils may be branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 5 to 20 carbon atoms, such as oleyl alcohol, and Guerbet alcohols such as ethylhexanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol.

[0036] Examples include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters composed of one or more fatty acids with 3 to 22 carbon atoms and one or more fatty alcohols with 3 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acids may include one or more acid groups, and the fatty alcohols may include one or more alcohol groups. These esters may be of natural origin, partially of natural origin, or of synthetic origin. Esters of natural origin are preferred for the invention, given their stability, ease of formulation, and good consumer acceptance. These may include, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, tridecyl trimellitate, triethylhexyl trimellitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, lauryl lactate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl behenate, isododecylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate,isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, diisooctyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprylate / caprate, cetearyl isononanoate, isocetyl stéarate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stéarate, oleyl lactate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl ethylhexanoate, caprylyl caprylate / caprate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetyl acetate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, decyl cocoate, diethylhexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl maleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stéarate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl laurate, isopropyl stéarate, isostearyl avocadate, isostearyl , erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl erucate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl erucate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, propanediol dicaprylate, propanediol dicaprylate / caprate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl trilinoleate, trioctyldodecyl citrate. solid fats

[0037] The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase may contain one or more waxes having melting points above 60°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of waxes in relation to the oily phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight.

[0038] The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase may contain one or more butters having melting points above 30°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of butters in relation to the oily phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 40% by weight.

[0039] Butters are of interest for this application because of their ease of formulation; they are very good emollients and positively modify the sensory characteristics of the compositions. They provide hardness to the compositions while allowing for easy spreading on the skin thanks to their melting properties. The origins of the butters that can be used in the invention are, for example, but not limited to, shea butter and its derivatives (butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), cocoa butter (theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter), mango butter (mangifera indica (mango) seed butter), cupuaçu butter (theobroma grandiflorum seed butter), kokum butter (garcinia indica seed butter), mowrah butter (bassia latifolia seed butter), sal butter (shorea robusta seed butter), murumuru butter (astrocaryum murumuru seed butter), ucuuba butter (virola sebifera nut oil), bacuri butter (platonia insignis seed butter).

[0040] Triglycerides reconstituted from different fatty acids can be used to structure the oil mixture. These triglycerides consist of a glycerol residue and three linear fatty acid residues with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 22 carbon atoms such as the following materials: glycerol trilaurate (trilaurin), glycerol trimyristate (trimyristin), glycerol tripalmitate (tripalmitin), glycerol tristearate (tristearin), glycerol triarachidate (triarachidin), glycerol tribehenate (tribehenin), glycerol trihydroxystearate (trihydroxystearin).

[0041] Triglycerides that are solid at room temperature and made up of mixtures of linear fatty acids with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 36 carbon atoms can also be used to harden the oil phase; among these we can mention C10-18 triglycerides (C10-18 triglycerides) with varying melting points, and Cl8-36 triglycerides (Cl8-36 triglycerides) with varying melting points.

[0042] Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters composed of a fatty acid with a carbon chain of 8 to 22 carbon atoms and a fatty alcohol with a carbon chain of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, having melting points above 30°C, can also be used to harden the oil phase. Examples include, but are not limited to, esters such as isostearyl behenate, isostearyl hydroxystearate, myristyl myristate, stearyl heptanoate, octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, stearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, jojoba esters produced by interesterification of jojoba oil, hydrogenation of jojoba oil, or a mixture of the two transformations (jojoba esters).

[0043] Fats and oils with melting points above 30°C can be obtained from hydrogenated vegetable oils. These oils have varying melting points; some can be considered butters and others waxes depending on their respective melting points.These hydrogenated vegetable oils can include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated vegetable oils whose composition is not specified (hydrogenated vegetable oil), hydrogenated argan oil (hydrogenated argania spinosa kernel oil), hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated apricot kernel oil, hydrogenated canola oil, hydrogenated pistachio seed oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated sweet almond oil, and hydrogenated castor oil. oil).

[0044] Butters derived from modified vegetable oils may also be used. These are derived from partially hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins, or from vegetable oils of all origins blended with partially or fully hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins.

[0045] Waxes of vegetable or animal origin may include, for example, but not limited to, candelilla wax (euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), carnauba wax (copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax), beeswax, and sumac wax. called Japanese wax (rhus vemiciflua (sumac) peel cera), rice wax (oryza sativa (rice) bran wax), sunflower wax (helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil), myrica wax (myrica cerifera (bayberry) fruit wax).

[0046] Waxes of mineral or synthetic origin can be used to harden the oil phase. These waxes can be mineral waxes derived from petroleum distillation and composed of branched or linear chain hydrocarbons, such as microcrystalline wax and paraffin wax. Waxes extracted from lignite or coal or any other sedimentary rock, such as ozokerite wax, lignite wax or Montan wax, and their waxes obtained through purification processes, such as ceresin wax (paraffin). Waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch process, through the catalysis of carbon monoxide and hydrogen, such as synthetic waxes and synthetic beeswax.Les cires de la famille des silicones, telles que lauryl phenylisopropyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone, dimethiconol stéarate, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone. . Gélifiants huileux

[0047] Other substances that can harden oil mixtures are gelling agents of natural or synthetic origin. Among these gelling agents that can harden oil mixtures, we can mention polyamides. These can be, for example, but not limited to, polyamide-2, polyamide-3, polyamide-4, and polyamide-8. These polyamides are commonly used as film-forming agents in cosmetics. They also allow for the production of gelled oils when used in sufficient mass proportions, typically greater than 10%. The gelling power depends on the type of polyamide used. Glutamic acid derivatives such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide can also be used to gel the oil phase. These are used in mass proportions of between 1% and 20%, preferably between 3% and 15%, and in particular between 4% and 12% relative to the oily phase.Hydroxystearic acid can be used to provide a gelled texture. Dextrin derivatives can also be used, with varying sensory properties depending on the carbon chain grafted onto the dextrin chain. These include dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate / hexyldecanoate, dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate, and dextrin isostearate. Stearoyl inulin can also be used to form gels. Castor oil-derived polymers, such as castor oil / IPDI copolymer, can also be used to gel the oil phase. The consistency of the compositions can be adjusted by introducing mineral-based substances, modified or unmodified, such as clays, silicates, and silicas. These clays can be used for . Examples include, but are not limited to, bentonite and its derivatives, hectorite and its derivatives, and montmorillonite and its derivatives. Silicates include, but are not limited to, magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, and lithium magnesium silicate. Silicas include, but are not limited to, fumed silica and modified silicas. UV filters

[0048] The compositions also contain chemical or mineral filters that enable the product to provide sun protection to the user. The filters can be used alone or, preferably, in a defined mixture. This defined mixture allows, for example, claims of protection performance in accordance with the regulations in force in the geographical areas where the product is marketed. This applies in particular to protection performance in the ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) ranges.

[0049] The filters used may, for example, be of mineral origin. The filters may also be of synthetic origin, or of natural origin, in particular certain vegetable oils having sun protection properties.

[0050] These filters may be, for example, but not limited to, metal oxides such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters such as, for example, but not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane, menthyl anthranilate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, homomenthyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine.

[0051] In addition to the UV filters that may be contained in the compositions, certain water-soluble UV filters may be added to the composition in the aqueous phase. This is the case, for example, with phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0052] Additional ingredients that may form part of the composition

[0053] Various ingredients can be added to the compositions to improve their attractiveness to users, such as perfumes, touch agents, colorants, pigments, and active ingredients.

[0054] Perfumes can be of synthetic or natural origin. Among these, we can mention essential oils. Perfumes incorporated into compositions have the advantage of being released at the time of application of the product to the skin, which enhances the transformative effect of the product upon use.

[0055] Touch-enhancing agents can be fillers that facilitate product spreading through their lubricating properties, or improve the sensory experience during and after application, thus limiting the stickiness and / or shine of the formulas. These touch-enhancing agents can be of natural or synthetic origin. Examples include silica and silica derivatives, PMMA and nylon-based plastic particles and their derivatives, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, starches and starch derivatives, clays and clay derivatives, and metallic or metal oxide particles.

[0056] Dyes can be of natural or synthetic origin. Ideally, the color makes the product attractive, but the skin is not tinted upon application. The dyes according to the invention are primarily used to enhance the visual appeal of the product before application.

[0057] Pigments provide color to the product and can advantageously modify skin tone upon application. The use of pigments can also enhance the action of sun protection by absorbing or reflecting some of the radiation. The pigments used according to the invention are based on iron oxides and titanium dioxide. Mother-of-pearl pigments on a mica base, synthetic mica (synthetic fluorphlogopite), or boron nitride can also be used.

[0058] The compositions according to the invention may also contain active ingredients that positively modify the appearance of the skin. The active ingredients may be vitamins and their derivatives, antiseptic molecules, anti-acne agents, keratolytic agents, depigmenting agents, anti-inflammatory agents, esters of so-called essential mineral salts, oils of animal, vegetable or synthetic origin that have benefits for the skin, and plant extracts. Examples

[0059] A representative composition of the invention is shown as an example below. This example is representative of a skincare cream and is not limiting.

[0060] [Tables 1] INCI Name of ingredient Phase Composition (% by mass) WATER AQUA A 61.3 GLYCERIN GLYCERIN A 2 DERMOSOFT 1388 ECO NAL GLYCERIN & AQUA & SODIUM LEVULINATE & P-ANISIC ACID & SODIUM HYDROXIDE A 4 KONJAC GUM GLUCOMANNAN B 0.5 BEHENYL ALCOHOL BEHENYL ALCOHOL C 6 SHEA BUTTER BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER C 6 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE C 20 CITRIC ACID CITRIC ACID & AQUA D 0.2

[0061] The procedure for the example given in Table 1 is as follows: the ingredients of phase A are mixed under rotor-stator stirring (Silverson L5) at 70°C at a speed of 3000 rpm. The gelling agent of phase B is then added to phase A and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 70°C at a speed of 3000 rpm. The ingredients of phase C are heated and homogenized together at 70°C using a deflocculating paddle mixer (Rayneri). The ingredients of phase C are then added to phase A+B and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 70°C at a speed of 4000 rpm for 5 minutes. The temperature of the mixture is then lowered to 20°C while continuing to stir. The ingredient for phase D is then added to A+B+C using a deflocculating paddle mixer (Rayneri). The final pH is set within a range of 4.75-5.5.

[0062] The composition given in Table 1 has a 100% natural content calculated according to ISO16128. None of the materials are derived from palm oil.

[0063] A representative composition of the invention is shown as an example below. This example is representative of a skincare cream and is not limiting.

[0064] [Tables2] Nom de la matière INCI Phase Composition (% massique) EAU AQUA A 55,248 GLYCERINE GLYCERIN A 2 DERMOSOFT 1388 ECO NAL GLYCERIN& AQUA& SODIUM LEVULINATE& P-ANISIC AC ID& SODIUM HYDROXIDE A 4 GOMME DE KONJAC GLUCOMANNAN B 0,5 BEHENYL ALCOHOL BEHENYL ALCOHOL C 6 BEURRE DE KARITE BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER C 6 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TR IGLYCERIDE CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCE RIDE C 20 PHYTOSOOTHE LS 976 6 BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS STER OLS& CETEARYL ALCOHOL C 2 SILICA SILICA D 2 SPECPURE GBE001 CHLOROPHYLLIN-COPPER CO MPLEX E 0,002 EXTRAIT HYDROGL YCERINE DE SAUGE GLYCERIN& AQUA& SALVIA OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACT E 1 EXTRAIT HYDROGL YCERINE DE THYM GLYCERIN& AQUA& THYMUS VULGARIS LEAF EXTRACT E 1 SODIUM HYALURON ATE SODIUM HYALURONATE E 0,05 ACIDE CITRIQUE CITRIC ACID& AQUA F 0,2

[0065] The procedure for the example given in Table 2 is as follows: the ingredients of phase A are mixed under rotor-stator stirring (Silverson L5) at 70°C at a speed of 3000 rpm. The ingredient of phase B is added to phase A and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 70°C at a speed of 3000 rpm. The ingredients of phase C are heated and homogenized together at 70°C using a stirrer with a deflocculating blade (Rayneri). The ingredients of phase C are then added to phase A+B and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 70°C at a speed of 4000 rpm for 5 minutes. The temperature of the mixture is then lowered to 20°C while continuing to stir. When the temperature of 20°C is reached, the silica of the phase D is added to A+B+C using a stirrer with a deflocculating blade. After the mixture is homogeneous, and still at a temperature of 20°C, the ingredients of phase E are added to the mixed phases A+B+C+D using a stirrer with a deflocculating blade. The ingredient of phase F is then added to A+B+C+D+E using a stirrer with a deflocculating blade. The final pH is set within a range of 4.75–5.5.

[0066] The composition given in Table 2 has a 100% natural origin content calculated according to ISO16128. None of the materials are derived from palm oil.

[0067] A representative composition of the invention is shown as an example below. This example is representative of a mascara makeup product and is not limiting.

[0068] [Tables3] Name of the material INCI Phase Composition (% by weight) WATER AQUA A 37.91 DERMOSOFT 1388 ECO NAL GLYCERIN& AQUA& SODIUM LEVULINATE& P-ANISIC AC ID& SODIUM HYDROXIDE A 2.0 SORBITOL SORBITOL& AQUA A 10.0 XANTHAN GUM XANTHAN GUM B 0.3 BLACK PIGMENT CI 77499 C 15.0 CARNAUBA COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA D 3.0 CETYL ALCOHOL CETYL ALCOHOL D 8.5 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TR IGLYCERIDE CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCE RIDE D 15.0 VITAMIN E TOCOPHEROL& HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL D 0.1 KAOLIN KAOLIN E 7.5 CITRIC ACID CITRIC ACID& AQUA F 0.069 WATER AQUA F 0.621

[0069] The operating procedure for the example given in Table 3 is as follows: the ingredients of phase A are mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 65°C at a speed of 7000 rpm until the mixture is homogeneous. The thickener of phase B is added to phase A and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 65°C at a speed of 7000 rpm. The pigment of phase C is added to phase A+B and mixed under rotor- The stator is heated to 65°C at a speed of 7000 rpm. The ingredients of phase D are heated and homogenized together at 85°C using a deflocculating paddle mixer (Rayneri). The ingredients of phase D are then added to phases A, B, and C and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 85°C at a speed of 7000 rpm for 5 minutes. The ingredient of phase E is added to phases A, B, C, and D and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 85°C at a speed of 7000 rpm. The temperature of the mixture is then lowered to 20°C while continuing to stir with a deflocculating paddle mixer. When the temperature of 20°C is reached, the ingredients of phase F are added to A+B+C+D+E using a stirrer with a deflocculating blade to correct the pH to a value of 5.0-5.5.

[0070] The composition given in Table 3 has a 100% natural content calculated according to ISO 16128. None of the materials are derived from palm oil.

[0071] A representative composition of the invention is shown as an example below. This example is representative of a sunscreen product and is not limiting.

[0072] [Tables4] Name of the material INCI Phase Composition (% by mass) WATER AQUA A 47.16 CHLORPHENESINE CHLORPHENESIN A 0.25 GLYCERINE GLYCERIN& AQUA A 3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL PENTYLENE GLYCOL A 2 CHEMSOL HS PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE S ULFONIC ACID A 3 LEANING SODA 3 0% AQUA& SODIUM HYDROXIDE B 1.49 KONJAC GUM GLUCOMANNAN C 0.7 CETIOL CC DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE& TOCOPHEROL D 19.5 ETHYLHEXYL TRIA ZONE ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE D 5 UVINUL A+ GRANU LAR DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYB ENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE D 10 UVASORB HEB DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE D 2 AJK-OD2046 OCTYLDODECANOL& DIBUT YL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE& DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE D 5.5 VIT AMIN ACETATE EE TOCOPHERYL ACETATE D 0.3 SUNSHINE SUPER GOL D SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGO PITE& CI 77891 D 0.1

[0073] The procedure for the example given in Table 4 is as follows: the ingredients of phase A are mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 70°C at a speed of 7000 rpm until the mixture is homogeneous. The pH of phase A is corrected to a value of 7.5–8.0 by adding the sodium hydroxide from phase B. The thickener from phase C is added to phase A+B and mixed under rotor-stator stirring at 70°C at a speed of 7000 rpm. The ingredients of phase D are heated and homogenized together at 70°C using a deflocculating paddle mixer (Rayneri). The ingredients of phase D are then added to phase A+B+C and mixed under rotor-stator agitation at 70°C at a speed of 4000 rpm for 5 minutes. The temperature of the mixture is then lowered to 20°C while continuing agitation with a mixer equipped with a deflocculating blade.

[0074] The composition given in Table 4 has an original content of 78% calculated according to ISO16128, and has a simulated SPF of 50.

[0075] The examples of compositions of the invention are stable at 4°C, 20°C, 45°C for periods exceeding 3 months.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition characterized by an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the composition being free of surfactants and containing at least one polysaccharide-based gelling agent in the aqueous phase, at least one oil, at least one fat having a melting point above 30°C, the oily phase being dispersed in the form of solid to pasty particles at temperatures below 55°C, with average dimensions of the order of 1-100 micrometers, the dispersion thus formed having a macroscopically homogeneous, but microscopically heterogeneous appearance.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains a gelling agent among the gums of xanthan gum, konjac gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, tara gum, carob gum, tamarind gum, acacia gum, natto gum, guar gum, carrageenan gum, starch, cellulose.

3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase is composed mainly of water in proportions between 1% and 99%, preferably between 40% and 97%, and in particular between 70% and 95% by weight.

4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains one or more gelling agents, the proportion of gelling agents relative to the aqueous phase being between 0.01% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5%, and in particular between 0.5% and 1% by weight.

5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase contains one or more fatty alcohols having melting points above 40°C, with carbon chain lengths of between 16 and 34 carbon atoms, the proportion of fatty alcohols relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 50%, preferably between 5% and 40%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight.

6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase is composed mainly of one or more liquid oils at 20°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of oils relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 30% and 95%, and in particular between 50% and 90% by weight.

7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase contains one or more waxes having melting points above 60°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of waxes relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight.

8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil phase contains one or more butters having melting points above 30°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of butters relative to the oil phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 40% by weight.

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