Compact powder for skincare and / or makeup

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, notably in the form of a compact powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a particulate solid phase comprising fillers and optionally pigments and / or pearlescent particles, and - a liquid phase comprising at least (i) a butylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate and (ii) a Caprylic / Capric / succinic triglyceride.

Description

Title of the invention: Compact powder for skincare and / or makeup FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to the field of compact powders, particularly intended for cosmetic care and / or makeup of the skin. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The properties sought to obtain a good quality cosmetic powder include in particular covering power, adhesion, ability to absorb moisture and sebum from the skin, spreading power, softness, fineness, comfort on the skin, long hold on the skin, homogeneity, stability in storage, and easy picking of the powder for application.

[0003] Products on the market (foundation / blush) that claim long-lasting wear (generally exceeding 10 hours) typically contain silicone-based binders. Silicone oils improve the formula's cohesion and allow for better adhesion to the skin upon application, thus giving the formula good staying power. The finish is silky and non-greasy.

[0004] But today, consumers are looking for more natural products, containing little or no silicone compounds.

[0005] The Applicant unexpectedly identified that a particular combination of non-silicone binders, preferably of natural origin, made it possible to obtain this non-greasy feel without using silicone oils, achieving long-lasting (24h) properties in a compact powder. Description of the invention

[0006] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, notably in the form of a compact powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a solid particulate phase comprising fillers and possibly pigments and / or mother-of-pearl, and - a liquid phase comprising at least (i) a C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) and (ii) a glycerol ester and one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s) distinct from compound (i).

[0007] It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, and more particularly of the face, including the application to keratinous materials of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0008] By "composition according to the invention" is meant the final cosmetic composition obtained according to the process of the invention, to be distinguished from the paste or 'slurry', which is obtained in an intermediate step of the process in the case of the wet process. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0009] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, notably in the form of a compact powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a solid particulate phase comprising fillers and possibly pigments and / or mother-of-pearl, and - a liquid phase comprising at least (i) a C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) and (ii) a glycerol ester and one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s) distinct from compound (i).

[0010] By "compact powder" is meant a solid composition based on powders, distinct from a loose powder, and more particularly in the present case, a composition comprising at least one solid phase shaped by a step called compaction (compaction) during which pressure is applied to give said solid phase cohesion such that the composition obtained is solid, namely that it does not flow under its own weight and retains its shape over time.

[0011] In contrast to a compact powder, a loose powder is generally prepared dry by simply mixing the ingredients, possibly accompanied by grinding and sieving, without a compaction step aimed at shaping the particulate phase.

[0012] Compact powders are generally prepared by mixing all the components of the particulate phase and then adding a liquid phase to this mixture while stirring. The mixture is then poured into a cup, a bucket, or a mold and compacted. Compaction is typically carried out at a pressure of 5 to 25 MPa and results in a reduction in the volume of the compacted composition.

[0013] A compact powder differs from a "cast" composition, which, conversely, consists mainly of waxes and binders. A cast composition is prepared by heating a solid fatty phase at room temperature, which must then be melted to be mixed with powdered materials.

[0014] The composition of the invention therefore comprises a particulate solid phase and a liquid phase as described below. Particulate (powdery) solid phase

[0015] The particulate solid phase is initially, before the compaction step, in powder form. This is why it will also be referred to as the particulate solid phase or by the generic term "powder" or "pulverulent phase".

[0016] This solid phase consists of a mixture of particles of various shapes, including but not limited to rods, flakes, and spheres. In a particular configuration, flake-shaped fillers are present in a high proportion in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Texturizing and tactile agents, such as spherical fillers, can be added to these white fillers to provide glide. The aim is to optimize the ratio of the different powders so that they compact while maintaining a satisfactory sensory experience (glide, pick-up, and softness) and the desired shade.

[0017] The particulate solid phase advantageously consists of a mixture of powdered materials comprising at least one filler and / or at least one pigment. The pigments can be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments (also known as 'nacres').

[0018] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition will generally contain fillers in the form of platelets (e.g., mica or synthetic fluorphlogopite, kaolin, boron nitride), fillers in spherical form (e.g., silica) to provide glide and / or a blurring effect, and pigments and / or pearlescent pigments for the tint of the composition.

[0019] Charges

[0020] The fillers can be mineral or organic, and of all shapes, platelet, spherical or oblong.

[0021] According to a particular method the charges are chosen from platelet charges, spherical charges and their mixtures.

[0022] The charges advantageously have an average diameter greater than 100 nanometers and less than 200 micrometers, and more particularly a diameter between 5 and 150 micrometers.

[0023] According to one embodiment of the invention, the fillers can be treated so as to modify their surface condition. The fillers used can advantageously be surface-treated to make them hydrophobic or hydrophilic, while ensuring sufficient cohesion of the powder of the invention.

[0024] According to a particular method, the fillers are treated hydrophobically.

[0025] The fillers are chosen in particular from inorganic fillers such as:

[0026] - micas of natural or synthetic origin, sericites, having dimensions of 2 at 200 micrometers (pm), preferably from 5 to 70 pm and a thickness of 0.1 to 5 pm, preferably from 0.2 to 3 pm;

[0027] - borosilicates, in particular sodium salts or aluminium salts borosilicates such as the products with INCI names CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BOROSILICATE and CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE;

[0028] - kaolin having particle sizes generally less than 30 pm;

[0029] - metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, zinc myristate, preferably in the form of particles having dimensions less than 10 pm; these metallic soaps play in particular the role of cohesive agent in the powder;

[0030] - zinc oxides; calcium carbonate; barium sulfate; carbonate of magnesium, magnesium hydroxide, silica, glass beads, ceramic beads; boron nitride;

[0031] - talc preferably in the form of particles generally of dimensions less than 40 pm;

[0032] - and their mixtures.

[0033] Examples of organic fillers include:

[0034] - cross-linked or non-cross-linked starches, for example corn, wheat, rice starches, or of potato;

[0035] - cellulose powders;

[0036] - synthetic polymer powders, crosslinked or not, spheronized or not, expanded or unexpanded, such as polyamide powders (e.g., poly-R-alanine powders and nylon powders like those marketed under the name ORGASOL®), poly(meth)acrylic acid or poly(meth)acylate powders such as crosslinked methyl methacrylate powders, silicone resin powders such as silsesquioxanes,

[0037] - and their mixtures.

[0038] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least fillers playing the role of excipient, fillers playing a role on texture and feel and fillers playing a role of cohesion within the composition.

[0039] Thus, the composition of the invention will advantageously comprise: - a filler selected from the group consisting of mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulfate, amino acids, starches, and mixtures thereof, as an excipient agent; - a filler chosen from the group consisting of silicas, celluloses, borosilicates as a blurring agent ("soft-focus"), and / or texture and / or touch; - possibly in addition a filler chosen from the group of metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof.

[0040] The fillers can also be classified according to their shape. The composition will advantageously include spherical fillers and platelet fillers.

[0041] According to a particular mode, the platelet charges are chosen from the group consisting of mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, borosilicates, barium sulfate, amino acids and mixtures thereof, and the spherical charges are chosen from the group consisting of silica, PMMA particles, cellulose particles, nylon particles, silicone resin particles, starches and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from silica, cellulose and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Thus, the composition of the invention may advantageously comprise at least: - a filler selected from the group consisting of mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, borosilicates, and mixtures thereof, as a plate filler; and - a charge chosen from the group consisting of silicas, cellulose, and their mixtures as a spherical charge.

[0043] The content of spherical charges and platelet charges can be adjusted according to the properties required.

[0044] In particular, the composition may include a content of 1 to 40%, in particular 2 to 30% by weight of spherical fillers, in particular selected from the group consisting of silica, cellulose, and mixtures thereof, and a content of 1% to 70%, in particular 5% to 60% of platelet fillers, in particular selected from the group consisting of mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, borosilicates, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition further comprises at least one filler selected from metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in a content ranging from 0% to 15%, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, to improve the cohesion of the powder obtained according to the invention.

[0046] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises platelet fillers and spherical fillers, preferably in a total content ranging from 40 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Pigments and mother-of-pearl The composition of the invention may further include pigments and / or mother-of-pearl. The pigments may be mineral pigments and / or organic pigments.

[0048] Mineral pigments can be selected from iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; titanium dioxide, manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxides, in particular hydrated chromium oxide, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of lacquers obtained from dyes such as D&C Black No. 2, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C orange No. 10, D&C No. red 3, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C red No. 9, D&C red No. 13, D&C red No. 19, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 10 and cochineal carmine.

[0049] Pearlescent pigments (or nacres) are for example chosen from mica coated with titanium oxide, mica-titanium coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, mica-titanium coated with chromium oxide, or tin oxide; mica-titanium coated with an organic pigment as described above, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments used are pigments treated on the surface, in particular by at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent allowing better dispersion of said treated pigments in the oily phase.

[0051] Pigment treatment generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment, according to techniques known to those skilled in the art.

[0052] The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, esters of dextrins and fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] According to a particular method, the hydrophobic treatment agent is notably chosen from the group consisting of isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0054] According to a particular method, for care products, the total content of pigments and / or pearls will generally range from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] According to another particular method, for makeup products, the total content of pigments and / or pearls will generally range from 0% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Liquid phase

[0056] The liquid phase (oils) contains the liquid raw materials of the composition. It is mixed or sprayed onto the already mixed powder phase. The oils used (binders) ensure the cohesion of the composition by forming liquid bridges between the constituents of the powder phase and allow the powder film thus coated to adhere to the skin.

[0057] The liquid phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least (i) a C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) and (ii) a glycerol ester and one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s).

[0058] Ester of diol and one or more carboxylic acid(s) (compound (i))

[0059] The C3-C5 diol can be a propylene glycol, a butylene glycol or a pentylene glycol.

[0060] The C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) may be chosen from among the saturated linear fatty acids in C8-C12, and more particularly from among caprylic, capric, lauric acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] According to a particular mode, the C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) is an ester of butylene glycol and caprylic (C8) / capric (C10) acids.

[0062] We can cite in particular the product with the INCI name BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE marketed under the name DERMOFEEL BGC MB by the company EVONIK or MIGLYOL 8810 MB by the company IMCD / OLEO CHEMICALS.

[0063] The total content of i) C3-C5 diol ester and of one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s), in particular of butylene glycol ester and caprylic (C8) / capric (C10) acids, in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Glycerol ester and one or more carboxylic acid(s) (compound (ü) distinct from compound (i))

[0065] The C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s), possibly branched and / or unsaturated, and comprising one or two carboxylic functions (mono- or diacids), may be chosen more particularly from succinic, caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, isostearic acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] According to a particular mode, the ester of glycerol and one or more carboxylic acid(s) in C4-C20 is chosen from an ester of glycerol and isostearic acid (C18), an ester of glycerol and caprylic / capric / succinic acids (C8 / C10 / C4) and their mixture.

[0067] Isostearic acid is a branched-chain fatty acid of 18 carbon atoms naturally occurring in plants and animals.

[0068] One can notably cite the product with the INCI name POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE.

[0069] Another example is the product with the INCI name CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE, in which Caprylic / Caprylic Triglyceride units are cross-linked using a C4 diacid, succinic acid. Such an ingredient is marketed under the name MIGLYOL 829 MB by IMCD / OLEO CHEMICALS.

[0070] The total content of ii) a glycerol ester and one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s), in particular a glycerol ester and isostearic acid (C18) and / or a glycerol ester and caprylic / capric / succinic acids (C8 / C10 / C4), in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Thus, the total content of compounds (i) and (ii) in the composition of the invention will range from 2 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 25%, preferably from 6 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention shall comprise (i) a butylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate and (ii) a polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate and / or a caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride

[0073] Thus, the composition of the invention may include: - (i) a butylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate and (ii) a polyglyceryl-2- triisostearate; or - (i) a butylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate and (ii) a Caprylic / Capric / Succinic triglyceride, or preferably - (i) a butylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate and (ii) a polyglyceryl-2- triisostearate and a Caprylic / Capric / Succinic triglyceride.

[0074] The liquid phase may further advantageously comprise a hydroxylated compound selected from polyols, glycol ethers and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Among the polyols and glycol ethers, the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0076] - C3-C6 polyols, for example a C3-C6 aliphatic diol (or glycol) such as propane-1,2-diol (or propylene glycol), propane-1,3-diol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane-1,5-diol), or a triol such as glycerol,

[0077] - a glycol ether or an aromatic alcohol such as phenoxyethanol,

[0078] and their mixtures.

[0079] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one C3-C5 polyol, preferably glycerol.

[0080] The total content of polyol(s) and / or glycol ether(s) in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0081] The composition may further include at least one additional ingredient selected from gelling agents, pasty fats or waxes, film-forming agents, perfumes, electrolytes, antioxidants, active ingredients, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Methods for preparing the compositions of the invention

[0083] The compact powders according to the invention can be prepared by "dry" or "wet" method if a solvent or diluent is used to disperse the powders.

[0084] 'Dry' method or 'conventional compaction' method

[0085] By dry method or conventional compaction, compacted powders are generally prepared by mixing all the components of the particulate solid phase and then adding a binding oil phase to this mixture while stirring. The mixture is then ground, sieved, poured into a cup, and compacted. Compaction is typically carried out at a pressure of 5 to 25 MPa.

[0086] Thus, according to a first embodiment, the composition is obtained by a dry compaction process comprising the following steps:

[0087] - mixture of the particulate solid phase and the liquid phase,

[0088] - compacting the composition to obtain a compact powder

[0089] According to a particular method, the materials of the particulate solid phase (powder) are first mixed in a mixer (granulating mixer type), then the pigments are added, with a further stirring step to disperse them sufficiently within the powder phase. Finally, the nacres are added, and a further stirring step is therefore added.

[0090] The liquid materials are then added to the mixer under stirring conditions using a vaporization device that finely disperses the liquids over the powder phase. The resulting mixture can then be ground (pin mill, air jet mill, etc.) to refine the texture. The resulting formula is sieved before being compacted.

[0091] 'Wet' or 'slurry' process

[0092] The wet process for manufacturing a compact powder according to the invention uses a paste (slurry) and does not include a dry compaction step. The 'slurry' is a term used to designate a cosmetic paste (suspension) composed of a particulate phase (fillers and pigments), a non-volatile liquid phase (binder to give the powder its smoothness and a creamy feel) and a volatile liquid (solvent) (e.g. isododecane, water), which will be evaporated during the process.

[0093] The 'wet' preparation method thus includes an additional step compared to the 'dry' preparation method, prior to the compaction step. Specifically, a defined quantity of solvent is added to the intermediate composition to make it sufficiently liquid (forming a 'paste' or 'slurry') to be extruded or injected. During the subsequent compression step, the solvents are aspirated simultaneously with the compression. This is referred to as a compression / aspiration step. Finally, a drying step can be carried out to remove any residual traces of solvent.

[0094] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition is obtained by a wet compaction (slurry) process comprising: - mixture of the particulate solid phase and the liquid phase, - adding a sufficient quantity of a volatile liquid (solvent) to form a paste intended for injection or extrusion, - shaping of the paste by compaction and total or partial removal of volatile liquid to obtain a compact powder.

[0095] The solvent may be an alkane, water, or a volatile silicone. Advantageously, isododecane or water will be used.

[0096] By 'sufficient quantity' of solvent to form a paste intended for injection or extrusion, is meant an amount generally ranging from 20g to 80g, in particular from 30g to 70g per 100g of composition. According to a particular method, 60g of isododecane will be added per 100g of composition.

[0097] This solvent is then eliminated during the preparation of the composition, more particularly during the drying step which aims to eliminate the volatile solvent(s).

[0098] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention is obtained by a wet compaction (slurry) process comprising: - mixture of the particulate solid phase and the liquid phase, - adding a quantity of solvent ranging from 20g to 80g, in particular 30g to 70g per 100g of composition, - shaping the paste by compaction and total or partial removal of the solvent to obtain a compact powder

[0099] According to a particular method, the composition according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising the following steps:

[0100] - mixture of a liquid phase comprising at least (i) a C3-C5 diol ester and one or more C8-C12 carboxylic acid(s) and (ii) a glycerol ester and one or more C4-C20 carboxylic acid(s), of the solid phase in powder form;

[0101] - addition of a volatile solvent such as isododecane, in particular in a content of from 20g to 80g per 100g of mixture, to form a paste; and

[0102] - shaping the paste by compaction and removal of volatile solvent for to obtain the composition in compact powder form.

[0103] For shaping, the paste can be placed in molds to undergo shaping according to a technique known to those skilled in the art. The molds can be made of metal or silicone and be reusable once the composition has been demolded. The molds can also be cups or jugs that remain attached to the composition once manufactured and are then placed in the container. When the paste is liquid, it can be injected either from the bottom, side, or top of the mold or poured by simply filling the mold through its top opening. A bottom injection process is known, for example, as "Back Injection Machine" or BIM. A side injection process is known, for example, as "Side Injection." A mold filling process that consists of pouring the paste into the mold from the top is known as "Top Fill."The paste can also be made more viscous, allowing it to be measured by preparing pieces of paste. The percentage of volatile liquid is preferably chosen so that the paste has a consistency sufficient for kneading, measuring, and cutting. In this case, it is necessary to shape the paste so that the composition conforms to the edges of the molds before removing the volatile liquid. This shaping can be achieved by pressing simultaneously with the removal of the volatile liquid. The preparation process of the invention includes a step for removing the volatile liquid, the objective of which is to eliminate the volatile liquid in order to solidify the composition. The removal of the volatile liquid can be carried out by mechanical means such as suction, or by thermal means such as heat. According to a particular and preferred method, the removal of the volatile liquid is carried out by suction under vacuum, at ambient temperature. and with a suction pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars, a compression pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars (inclusive).

[0104] Pressing (compaction) is achieved, in particular, by means of a mold cavity that comes into contact with the paste and compresses the composition between the bottom of the mold and its surface during suction. The end of the cavity or the bottom of the mold is perforated to allow the volatile liquid to be extracted from the paste during suction. In this embodiment, a porous material can be deposited on the free surface of the paste in each mold, or placed on the cavity that acts as a press, in order to retain the powder in the mold during suction. This porous material is, for example, a cloth, a mesh, or an absorbent sheet. It is removed from the composition once suction is complete. The removal of the volatile liquid can also include a combination of the means described above.Thus, according to a variant of the process of the invention, the removal of the volatile liquid contained in the paste comprises mechanical removal followed by thermal removal.

[0105] The process may, for example, comprise two successive steps: partial drying of the paste using mechanical removal means to obtain a moist powder, and drying of the moist powder by thermal means. Mechanical removal may be carried out by suction under a press, and thermal removal may be carried out, for example, by oven drying, preferably at a temperature below 70°C, preferably even below 60°C, with a minimum relative humidity of 20%.

[0106] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the drying time required to optimize the removal of volatile liquid. The paste may contain a higher or lower proportion of volatile liquid depending on the duration and the removal methods used.

[0107] The powder-based composition obtained by the process of the invention may include traces of volatile liquid used in the preparation of the paste. This proportion is preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The aim is generally to minimize the proportion of residual volatile liquid in the final composition. The powder-based composition of the invention can be described as a "dry" powder, given the very small residual amount of volatile liquid used in its preparation.

[0108] Bucket process

[0109] According to a first embodiment, called 'first generation' (IG process), the paste is compacted from the top in a cup.

[0110] During compaction, compression and suction are carried out simultaneously by means of a tool having a perforated head and a compaction pattern.

[0111] The compaction fabric is in contact with the pattern. The remaining solvent is evaporated in the oven for several hours.

[0112] The compression is carried out in two stages:

[0113] The first compaction allows some of the solvent to be aspirated

[0114] the second compaction allows the final shape to be given with patterns on the surface.

[0115] Silicone mold process

[0116] According to a second embodiment, referred to as the 2nd generation (2G process), the resulting compact powder no longer requires a mixing cup and exhibits a three-dimensional pattern, more precise than with the previous method. The visuals and reliefs (3D effect, precision, gesture) are unprecedented. The 2G process makes it possible to achieve surface volumes exceeding 5 mm, much larger than with conventional compaction, as well as a beautiful surface finish, good pattern definition, and gloss. Furthermore, the surface finish of the 2G process is significantly more precise and glossier than the IG process due to the absence of a compaction intermediate during the creation of the relief (the pattern is present in the silicone mold). Galenic

[0117] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a skincare powder or a face or lip makeup powder, in particular a compact foundation, a blush or a cheek powder, an eyeshadow, a complexion highlighter, a bronzing powder, a protective complexion powder, a concealer, a lip powder or an eyebrow powder, preferably a compact foundation, a blush, a complexion highlighter, a cheek powder or an eyeshadow.

[0118] The powders can be applied with a brush, sponge, or finger. Cosmetic process

[0119] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the application on the keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0120] When applied to the skin, particularly the face, compact powder, especially obtained by a 'slurry' process as described above, provides the consumer with the desired comfort and sensorial experience, with very good makeup hold throughout the day.

[0121] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES

[0122] Example 1: Selection of hydrocarbon binders of vegetable origin according to the invention

[0123] Several hydrocarbon binders (formulas 1 to 9), advantageously of vegetable origin, were tested at 2% in the same architecture comprising a particulate solid phase (fillers, pigments) and a liquid phase (glycols, lipophilic UV filter, preservatives).

[0124] Silicone oil (formula 10) is used as a control (outside the invention) for its good holding and sensory properties.

[0125] The formulas are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0126] The powder phase (fillers and pigments) is weighed and then mixed under agitation.

[0127] The oil phase and then the glycol phase are added under stirring in the Mix until homogeneous.

[0128] Next, under a deflocculating type agitator, 60g of isododecane is added for 100g of complete formula, and agitation is maintained until a homogeneous paste ('slurry') is obtained.

[0129] The resulting paste is then compacted in a cup with an absorbent cloth and then dried in an oven for a minimum of 10 hours at 50°C / 60°C.

[0130] The formulas were evaluated by a panel of experts according to the following criteria: film adherence to skin film thinness upon application to the skin, coverage after application to the skin, homogeneity of the makeup after application, glide upon application to the skin, homogeneous pickup of the composition, stability of the composition.

[0131] The formulas and evaluation results are presented in the following Table 1:

[0132] [Tables 1] Formulas 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Ingredients (INCI Name) PRESERVATIVE EUR 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 SILICA 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 CELLULOSE 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 TITANIUM DIOXYDE lipophilic treated 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BOROSI LICATE 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 TALC lipophilic treated 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 7.6 SYNTHETIC FL UORPHLOGOPIT E lipophilic treated 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 IRON OXIDES (RED, YELLOW, BLACK) treated 1 ipophilic 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 NACRE 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 NEOPENTYL GL YCOL DIETHYL HEXANOATE (S ALACOS 525) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 BORON NITRIDE 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 GLYCOLS 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 POLYISOBUTEN E 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 C10-18TRIGLY CERIDES (LIP 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 OCIRE A PAST ILLES SG) ETHYLHEXYL S ALICYLATE (E SCALOL 587) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 BUTYLENE GLY COL DICAPRYL ATE / DICAPRAT E (DERMOFEEL B GC MB) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Liants hydrocarbon és testés GLYCEROL 2 CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS (SAFFLOWER) SEED OIL / A LOE BARBADEN SIS LEAF JUICE (ALOE VERA 0 IL N35253-OS) 2 POLYGLYCE RYL-2 TRIISOS TEARATE 2 PRUNUS AM YGDALUS DULC IS (SWEET AL MOND) OIL (H UILE D’AMAND ES DOUCES) 2 VEGETABLE 01 L / HYDROGEN ATED VEGETAB LE OIL / EUPHOR BIA CERIFERA 2 (CANDELILLA) WAX (CEGES OFT VP MB) RIBES NIGRUM (BLACK CURRANT) SEED OIL / ASCORBYL PALMITATE / (HUIL E PEPINS CASSIS DESODOR.) 2 HELIANTHUS A NNUUS (SUNFL OWER) SEED OIL / TOCOPHE ROL, 1406-18-4 (FLORASUN 90) 2 LIMNANTHES A LBA (MEADOWF OAM) SEED OIL (FANCOR ME ADOWFOAM SEED OIL) 2 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MIGLYOL 829 MB) 2 TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL TR ISILOXANE (DOWSILPH-1555 HRI) (comparative siliconised liant) 2 GLO BAL EVALUATION RESULTS — - ++ — — - — — +++ +++ WEAR — + +++ — — + — — +++ ++ FILM THINNESS — — ++ + + — + + ++ ++ COVERAGE — — + — — + — — + - MAKEUP HOMOGENEITY — + + -- -- + -- -- + + GLIDE — — + — — + — — + + EVEN PICKUP — + + — — + — — + + STABILITY — + + + + + + + + + Test Conclusion Solubility problem vs. other binders Coverage problem, glide problem Very good hold / adherence to skin, fine and even texture Waxy effect Waxy effect Good coverage, hold and adherence, but too thin, flakes - lacks adhesion and hold - thin, lacks Nude Good coverage, good and lasting, and film finish. Makeup result: average coverage / good hold

[0133] Legend for the assigned ratings:

[0134] +++: very good performance on the evaluated criterion

[0135] ++: good performance on the evaluated criterion

[0136] + : average performance on the evaluated criterion

[0137] - : poor performance on the evaluated criterion

[0138] — : poor performance on the evaluated criterion

[0139] These results show that the combination of two particular hydrocarbon binders of plant origin, namely the combination of (i) a glycerol ester and C4-C18 carboxylic acids (butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate) and (ii) an ester Glycerol and C8-C12 carboxylic acids (polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate in example 3 and caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride in example 9) gives the best performance on the evaluated criteria, with even better results for the combination with (ii) caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride (example 9).

[0140] This combination of plant-based binders makes it possible to obtain, in a composition without silicone binder, results in terms of film hold, film thinness, coverage, makeup homogeneity, glide, pick-up and stability equivalent to those with a phenylated silicone oil (comparison of example 10), or even better in terms of coverage. Example 2: Formulations

[0141] 2-1. Long-lasting compact foundation

[0142] [Tables2] PHA SE Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight s A SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE Qsp 100 A NACRE 10 A CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE 10 A SILICA 7.9 A TITANIUM DIOXIDE lipophilic treated 5.7 A ZINC STEARATE 0.5 A PRESERVATIVE qs A IRON OXIDES lipophilic treated 3.3 A BORON NITRIDE 5 B MICA 10 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 5 C CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MIGLYOL 829 MB) 3 C BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE (DER MOFEEL BGC MB) 5.5 C POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 2 D GLYCOLS 2.5

[0143] The composition is prepared according to the following wet process ('slurry'):

[0144] The powder phase (A+B) is weighed and then mixed under agitation.

[0145] Phase C and then phase D are added (vaporized) under stirring in the mixer until homogeneity.

[0146] Next, under a deflocculating type agitator, 60g of isododecane is added for 100g of complete formula, and agitation is maintained until a homogeneous paste ('slurry') is obtained.

[0147] The resulting paste is then compacted in a cup with an absorbent cloth and then dried in an oven (minimum 100 at 50°C / 60°C).

[0148] Test under normal conditions

[0149] This formula was tested on 20 foundation consumers, aged 18 to 60, and evaluated by a panel of experts.

[0150] The composition is applied to the entire face and several criteria are evaluated immediately after application, at 12 hours and at 24 hours after application: film retention, color intensity retention, evenness of complexion, coverage of surface imperfections, matte effect, reduction of pore visibility).

[0151] The results of the evaluations of this compact foundation showed that: - it has good film stability at T12H and fairly good film stability at T24H; - it has very good color intensity retention up to T12H and fairly good color intensity retention at T24H; - it has very good perfection efficacy immediately after application and up to T12H and fairly good perfection efficacy at T24H; - it has very good coverage of surface imperfections immediately after application and good coverage of surface imperfections at T12H and T24H; - It has a very good matte effect immediately after application, a good matte effect at 12 hours, and a fairly good matte effect at 24 hours; and - We observed a decrease in the visibility of pores (pores are refined) up to T24H, showing good efficacy of the foundation.

[0152] Test in hot and humid conditions

[0153] In parallel, this composition was also tested in hot and humid conditions on 22 female consumers who use foundation, aged 23 to 60, and evaluated by a panel of experts.

[0154] The composition is applied to the entire face and subjected to 5 cycles at 2h, 4h, 6h, 8h and 10h: 10 min of halogen projector: temperature 30-33°C and hygrometry 70%-75% relative humidity, to reproduce hot and humid conditions.

[0155] The results of the evaluations of this compact foundation showed that: - it has good film retention and color intensity at T12H, a little less at T24H; - it has very good perfecting efficiency immediately after application, good perfecting efficiency at T12H and fairly good perfecting efficiency at T24H; - the product has very good coverage of surface imperfections immediately after application, good coverage of surface imperfections at T12H and fairly good coverage of surface imperfections at T24H; - The product has a very good matte effect immediately after application and a fairly good matte effect at 12 hours and 24 hours; and - We observed a decrease in the visibility of pores (pores are refined) up to T24H, showing good efficacy of the foundation.

[0156] 2-2 Compact Powder

[0157] [Tables3] PHA SE Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight s A SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE Qsp 100 A NACRE 10 A MICA 10 A CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE 10 A SILICA 7.9 A BORON NITRIDE 5 A PRESERVATIVE qs B TITANIUM DIOXIDE lipophilically treated 5.7 B ZINC STEARATE 0.5 B IRON OXIDES lipophilically treated 3.3 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 10 C CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MIGLYOL 829 MB) 3 C BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE (DER MOFEEL BGC MB) 5.5 C POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 2 D GLYCOLS 2.5

[0158] The composition is prepared according to the following 'dry process' (conventional compaction):

[0159] The powder phase (phases A+B) is weighed and then mixed;

[0160] Phase C and then phase D are added by spraying under agitation in the mixer;

[0161] A sieving step is then carried out on 630 micron sieves and compaction with a nylon mesh on a compaction machine for dry powders.

[0162] When applied to the skin, this compact powder provides good coverage and excellent hold. This formula does not cling to pores and blends seamlessly with the skin.

[0163] 2-3 Blush

[0164] [Tables4] PHA SE Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight s A SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE Qsp 100 A NACRE 3.2 A MICA 14 A CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE 9 A SILICA 7 A CELLULOSE 2 A PRESERVATIVE qs A ZINC STEARATE 5 A PIGMENTS 2 C CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MIGLYOL 829 MB) 4.2 C BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE (DER MOFEEL BGC MB) 7 C POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 1.4 D HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE 2.1 E GLYCOLS 2.5

[0165] The composition is prepared according to the following 'wet process' (slurry) protocol:

[0166] The powder phase A is weighed and then mixed;

[0167] Phase C and then phase D (previously warmed) are added by spraying and finally phase E, under agitation in the mixer until homogeneity;

[0168] Next, 60g of isododecane is added per 100g of complete formula using a deflocculating mixer, and stirring is maintained until a homogeneous paste ('slurry') is obtained. The resulting paste is compacted in a container with an absorbent cloth and then dried in an oven (minimum 10 hours at 50°C / 60°C).

[0169] When applied to the skin, this blush formula provides intense color payoff without a chalky white or powdery finish, and offers excellent staying power. This formula doesn't cling to pores and blends seamlessly with the skin.

Claims

Demands

1. Solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, in the form of a compact powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a particulate solid phase comprising fillers and optionally pigments and / or pearlescent particles, and - a liquid phase comprising at least (i) a butylene glycol dicaprylate / caprate and (ii) a Caprylic / Capric / Succinic triglyceride.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it comprises platelet fillers and spherical fillers, in a total content of 40 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of compounds (i) and (ii) ranges from 2 to 30%, in particular from 3 to 25%, preferably from 6 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by a dry compaction process comprising: - mixing of the particulate phase and the liquid phase, - compaction of the composition to obtain a compact powder.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is obtained by a wet compaction (slurry) process comprising: - mixing of the particulate solid phase and the liquid phase, - addition of an amount of solvent from 20 to 80g, preferably from 30g to 70g per 100g of composition, - shaping of the paste by compaction and total or partial removal of the solvent to obtain a compact powder.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form

8. of a skincare powder or face or lip makeup powder, in particular a compact foundation, a blush or blush, an eyeshadow, a complexion highlighter, a bronzer, a protective complexion powder, a concealer, a lip powder or an eyebrow powder, preferably a compact foundation, a blush, a complexion highlighter, a blush or an eyeshadow. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7.