Non-transfer skincare and / or makeup composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, chosen in particular from the group consisting of: . copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), . branched dextrin esters, . and mixtures thereof, - optionally, in addition, at least one coloring agent.

Description

Title of the invention: Non-transferable skincare and / or makeup composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and lips. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] There is a strong consumer demand for skincare and makeup products that have good hold on keratinous materials, in particular good hold on skin or lips, and especially products that are resistant to all "life conditions", including so-called "extreme" conditions: high temperature and humidity, sweat and sebum (consequences of temperature) and widespread mask wearing (involving areas of friction and transfer).

[0003] The prior art is known to use retention polymers, particularly silicone-based polymers, volatile oils, and waxes, especially in solid compositions, but retention efficiency (no migration and / or non-transfer) and / or sensoriality (comfort) on the skin are not always optimal, particularly in extreme conditions.

[0004] Consequently, there remains a need to develop new products with improved hold, without compromising on the desired cosmetic and sensory properties (comfort). Advantageously, products with little or no volatile oils are sought.

[0005] The Applicant has demonstrated that combining a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type with one or more compounds that promote product adhesion to the skin and / or lips improves the cohesive and adhesive properties of the product film deposited on the skin of the lips and, consequently, its resistance to external stresses. Surprisingly, this combination prevents the deterioration of the network formed by the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type in the oil phase, thanks to a chemical interaction between the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and the adhesion agent.

[0006] Advantageously, in the case of solar compositions, improving the film's durability allows for improved solar protection. Description of the invention

[0007] A first aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0008] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, chosen in particular from the group consisting of: . vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), . branched dextrin esters, . and mixtures thereof, - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent,

[0009] By 'keratinous materials', we mean in particular the skin and / or the lips.

[0010] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising the application, to said keratinous materials, of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] Thus, a first aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0012] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, chosen in particular from the group consisting of: . vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), . branched dextrin esters, . and mixtures thereof, - possibly also at least one coloring agent,

[0013] The composition of the invention is generally solid, as defined by viscoelastic parameters according to the following protocol for example.

[0014] The viscoelastic parameters of the products (compositions of the invention) are measured using a TA Instruments DHR2 rheometer at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). A pellet of the product is cut and placed between two smooth metal surfaces 20 mm in diameter and 1 mm apart. The storage modulus or elastic modulus G' (Pa) and the phase angle delta (°) are recorded as a function of increasing stress from 0.1 Pa to 10,000 Pa. The values ​​used are extracted from the linear range in which the moduli are constant, i.e., at strains less than 100 Pa. A product with a storage modulus G' greater than or equal to 5,000 Pa and a phase angle delta less than or equal to 30° will be considered solid.

[0015] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention is characterized by a conservation modulus G' greater than or equal to 5000 Pa, and whose phase angle delta less than or equal to 30°, as measured according to the protocol described above.

[0016] Polyamide-type gelling polymer (promotes film cohesion)

[0017] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0018] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (friction, contact, etc.) and which reforms rapidly after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0019] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups, chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0021] Throughout the rest of the description, we speak interchangeably of 'polyamide polymer' or 'polyamide polycondensate' or 'lipophilic polyamide polycondensate' or 'polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensate' or 'polyamide-type lipophilic gelling polymer'.

[0022] The polyamide-type polycondensate usable as fat-phase gelling agents in the composition of the invention is preferably chosen from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0023] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0024] According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (Cl6), stearyl alcohol (Cl8), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG respectively in the form of a gel with 80% (active matter) in a mineral oil and with 100% (active matter).

[0025] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), respectively at 99.7% (active ingredient) with a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0026] According to a second particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (C18).

[0027] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl dibenzoate, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0028] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0029] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthesis product corresponding to a diester.

[0030] A mixture of lipophilic gelling agents among those described above is, for example, a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides whose molecular weights are approximately between 4,500 and 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0031] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 15% to 30% by weight, preferably from 20% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] Compound promoting film adhesion to the skin and / or lips

[0033] The composition of the invention comprises one or more compounds having good adhesion properties on the skin and / or lips, dispersible in oil phase, polymeric or non-polymeric, and distinct from the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate described above.

[0034] This compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials (also called 'adhesive compound') according to the invention is capable of guaranteeing optimal adhesion to the skin and / or lips throughout the day.

[0035] According to a particular mode, this compound promoting the adhesion of the film to the skin and / or lips is characterized by an adhesion working measure, as defined by the following protocol.

[0036] The adhesion work function of a raw material (e.g., a polymer) is measured at room temperature (22°C + / - 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) using the so-called "Delrin finger" method. The instrument used is a TAXT Plus texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems. The method consists of inserting a 12.7 mm diameter polyoxymethylene (Delrin) cylinder, rounded at its end, into a 6 cm diameter and 4 cm high container filled with the raw material (e.g., polymer) to be tested. The insertion depth is 13 mm, at a speed of 2 mm / sec. After this insertion depth, the cylinder is withdrawn at a speed of 2 mm / sec.

[0037] The resistance force to cylinder retraction is measured until the polymer bonded to the cylinder completely detaches, corresponding to a return to zero measured force. The calculated adhesion work, expressed in N / mm², corresponds to the total area under the x-axis.

[0038] Thus, within the framework of the invention, a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to the skin and / or lips will preferably be used, having an adhesion work greater than or equal to 2 N / mm, preferably greater than or equal to 4 N / mm, and in particular ranging from 5 N / mm to 35 N / mm, or even from 7 N / mm to 30 N / mm, measured for example by the protocol described above.

[0039] Examples include the following adhesion polymers, having an adhesion work measured according to the protocol described above:

[0040] UNIMER U1946 (VP / hexadecene copolymer, INCI name: VP / hexadecene and octyldodecanol): 7.7 N / mm²

[0041] CGT-UNIFILMA HVY (85%) (dextrin isostearate): 20.7 N / mm³

[0042] EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB (sucrose acetate isobutyrate): 24.2 N / mm.

[0043] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, said compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials is chosen from the group consisting of: - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, - sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - branched dextrin esters, - and their mixtures.

[0044] Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene

[0045] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers.

[0046] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises a VP / hexadecene copolymer, such as that with INCI name: VP / hexadecene and octyl-dodecanol, marketed under the name UNIMER U-1946.

[0047] The vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymer(s) comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the VP / hexadecene copolymer, is (are) present in the composition in a total content of 2 to 20%, in particular 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Sugar esters

[0049] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a film cohesion-enhancing compound selected from sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the EASTMAN company. This compound can be prepared by known techniques of reaction between sucrose and acetic and isobutyric anhydrides, followed by extensive purification by vacuum distillation. The degree of esterification is almost complete (degree of substitution greater than 7.5 for a maximum degree of substitution of 8), with an acetate:isobutyrate ester ratio of 2:6. US patent 3,096,324 gives an example of the preparation of SAIB.

[0050] The sucrose ester(s), in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate, is / are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Branched dextrin esters

[0052] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials selected from branched esters of dextrin.

[0053] The branched dextrin ester according to the invention may comprise one or more esterified chains, identical or different. For example, it may be dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids. These dextrin esters can be prepared using conventional esterification methods.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is a dextrin ester, wherein the dextrin has an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150, and wherein the fatty acid(s) comprise from 50% to 100% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more branched saturated fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for in which the degree of substitution of dextrin by fatty acid(s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

[0055] Such dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865.

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is selected from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

[0057] Among the commercially available compounds, we can mention UNIFILMA HVY dextrin isostearate marketed by the Chiba Flour Milling Co.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises: a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, preferably in a content ranging from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen from the group consisting of:

[0060] vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0061] sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0062] and their mixture,

[0063] and possibly also a coloring agent

[0064] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises: a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular with an active ingredient content ranging from 15 to 30%, in particular from 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and a VP / hexadecene copolymer, in particular in a content of 2 to 20%, in particular 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Preferably, in this particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, is used.

[0066] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, particularly in a content ranging from 15 to 30%, especially 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and sucrose acetate isobutyrate, particularly in a concentration ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Preferably, in this particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, is used.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular in a content ranging from 15 to 30%, in particular from 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and - a VP / hexadecene copolymer, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - a sucrose acetate isobutyrate, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Preferably, in this particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is used.

[0070] Oily phase

[0071] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase.

[0072] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other.

[0073] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0074] The oily phase of the composition shall comprise at least non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, selected from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers in C10-C40, synthetic esters in C10-C40, fatty alcohols in C12-C26, higher fatty acids in C2-C22, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] According to a particular mode, the composition shall comprise one or more hydrocarbon oil(s), preferably chosen from ester oils.

[0076] Among the "ester oils", the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0077] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0078] - synthetic esters such as RiCOOR2 formula oils in which Ri re presents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-Octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, 2-Diethyl-hexyl succinate;

[0079] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70;

[0080] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0081] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0082] - C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters;

[0083] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of car- acid(s) boxyl(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0084] and mixtures thereof.

[0085] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one ester oil selected from the group consisting of synthetic esters, hydroxylated esters and their mixtures.

[0086] The total quantity of oils present in the composition according to the invention will generally range from 35 to 65%, preferably 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] The oily phase may further comprise a vegetable resin, in particular chosen from the group consisting of a candelilla resin, a carnauba resin, and a rosinate.

[0088] According to a particular method, a candelilla resin will be used.

[0089] One can cite in particular candelilla resin marketed under the name CANDELILLA RESIN E2 by the company Japan natural products Co.,Ltd. Aqueous phase

[0090] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0091] The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include: - lower Ci-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and their mixtures; - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, - and their mixtures.

[0092] Preferably, the composition of the invention shall comprise water, glycerol and optionally in addition one or more C2-C8 glycols.

[0093] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a water content ranging from 5 to 30%, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a total content of water-soluble solvent(s) ranging from 5 to 15 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Thus, the composition of the invention includes in particular one or more hydrocarbon oils, preferably chosen from ester oils, water, and one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably chosen from glycerol, C2-C8 glycols and their mixture.

[0096] Colouring materials

[0097] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for tinted skincare compositions or makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0098] Colouring material in the context of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a coloured optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0099] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the continuous phase of the invention, in this case the oily phase of the invention.

[0100] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0102] Among the "mineral pigments", examples may be given to titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0103] For compositions intended for the lips, examples include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0104] Among the "organic pigments", examples include D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D&C red n° 13; D & C Red n° 7; D & C Red n° 6; D & C Yellow n° 5; D & C Red n° 36; D & C Red n° 33; D & C orange n° 10; D & C yellow n° 6; D & C Red n° 30; D & C red n° 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0105] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additional ingredients

[0106] The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one ingredient selected from emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents (distinct from the lipophilic gelling agents of the invention, in particular distinct from the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type), vegetable resins, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] It may further include, in the case of solar compositions, one or more UV filters. The UV filter(s) may be chosen from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and mixtures thereof.

[0108] "Inorganic UV filters" are generally metal oxide pigments selected from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

[0109] "Inorganic UV filters" can be water-soluble or fat-soluble.

[0110] According to a particular mode, a solar composition of the invention comprises an inorganic UV filter selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and their mixture, and a liposoluble organic UV filter. GALENIQUE

[0111] The composition of the invention is an emulsion, which may be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, or a multiple emulsion. Preferably, the composition of the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0112] This could be a lip balm, a foundation stick, a complexion corrector or concealer, an eyelid product, an eyebrow product or an eyeliner.

[0113] According to a first embodiment, the composition is a skin and / or lip care composition.

[0114] According to another embodiment, the composition is a makeup composition for the skin and / or lips, in particular a lipstick stick, a foundation stick, a complexion corrector or concealer, an eyelid product, an eyebrow product, or an eyeliner.

[0115] According to another embodiment, the composition is a solar product.

[0116] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is a com solid position, in the form of a stick for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, in particular a stick for the skin (e.g. foundation stick, concealer, eyelid stick, eyebrow pencil, eye pencil) or a stick for the lips (e.g. lipstick stick).

[0117] Preferably, it will be a lipstick stick or a foundation stick. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0118] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

[0119] In particular, the composition of the invention is an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0120] - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular in a content ranging from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0121] - a compound selected from the group consisting of: • vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, • sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), • and their mixture,

[0122] - and pigments.

[0123] Preferably, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is used.

[0124] In one particular mode, the composition applied to the skin is a skincare and / or makeup composition, in particular a foundation. In another mode, the composition is a sunscreen composition.

[0125] According to another particular method, the composition applied to the lips is preferably a solid lip makeup composition, in particular a lip stick.

[0126] The process according to the invention is in particular a process for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, intended to deposit on the skin and / or lips a film of non-transfer composition.

[0127] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0128] Example 1: Effect of combining a lipophilic polyamide polycondensate (POLYAMIDE-8) and a lipophilic adhesion compound

[0129] An emulsion stick according to the invention (Oleocraft + SAIB sucrose acetate isobutyrate) has been formulated, compared to an emulsion stick (Oleocraft + polybutene, which is an adhesion polymer commonly used in lipsticks).

[0130] [Tables 1] Phase e Ingredients (INCI) Comparative Invention A GLYCOLS 8 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 2 PURIFIED WATER 10 pH Adjusters Qs Preservatives Qs B SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE (SAIB 100) 10 - POLYBUTENE (POLYBUT 10) - 10 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 3 POLYAMIDE-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) from CRODA) 25 PIGMENTS (Titanium dioxide and Iron oxides) 7 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE Qsp 100

[0131] The formulas were prepared according to the following procedure: - The ingredients for phase B are weighed in the main beaker; - Phase B is heated in a water bath and dispersed with Rayneri until obtaining a homogeneous transparent phase; - The ingredients of phase A are weighed in a beaker, then dispersed in a Rayneri at room temperature until a homogeneous transparent phase is obtained; - Phase B is then placed in a water bath at 90°C in order to create the emulsion; - When phase A is at temperature, phase A is poured into phase B under Rayneri, gradually increasing the speed up to 600 rpm; - We emulsified for 5 minutes.

[0132] The two formulas were evaluated by two experts according to the following protocol: - Each formula is applied to one half of the lip, the formula of the invention on the left side and the comparative formula on the right side; - The experts evaluated the improvement in film adhesion of the invention's composition compared to the comparative (control) formula and awarded the following scores:

[0133] +: significant improvement in the stability of the formula of the invention compared tively to the control formula

[0134] ++: very significant improvement in the stability of the formula of the invention compared tively to the control formula

[0135] The evaluation results are presented in the following table 3:

[0136] [Tables2] Film screening +2 hours Film screening +4 hours after meal Panelist 1 ++ +++ Panelist 2 ++ +++

[0137] These results show that the combination of a lipophilic polyamide polycondensate and a film adhesion promoter compound of the sucrose acetate isobutyrate type according to the invention, compared to the same lipophilic polyamide polycondensate associated with polybutylene (conventional adhesion polymer), in stick emulsion compositions, makes it possible to significantly improve the film's hold from 2h.

[0138] Both formulas were also evaluated for their hold (non-transfer) according to the following protocol (the "kiss" test):

[0139] It consists of applying makeup to the lips with the compositions (control and invention in hemi-lips) and, after 15 minutes, kissing a sheet of paper.

[0140] We can then evaluate the transfer of each composition (control and invention) onto the paper.

[0141] The transfer of each formula is evaluated by visual observation and ratings are assigned to them.

[0142] 0: no transfer

[0143] - : light transfer

[0144] — : average transfer

[0145] — important transfer

[0146] The results are presented in the following table 3:

[0147] [Tables3] Formulas tested Evaluation of Transfer on Control Paper — Invention -

[0148] These results show that the hold (non-transfer) of the formula according to the invention is improved compared to the control formula with polybutene.

[0149] These results demonstrate the advantage of combining a lipophilic polyamide polycondensate with a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials according to the invention to improve the hold of the film and the hold of the makeup (non-transfer) during the day, in a stick emulsion.

[0150] Example 2: Effect of lipophilic polyamide polycondensate (POLYAMIDE-8) on gloss and film retention in a lipstick stick composition, compared to waxes

[0151] A stick emulsion according to the invention has been formulated, compared to a conventional stick emulsion with an equivalent percentage of waxes.

[0152] [Tables4] Phase Ingredients (INCI) Inventio n Control n A GLYCOLS 8 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 2 PURIFIED WATER 10 pH adjusters qs Preservatives qs B SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 3 POLYAMIDE-8 (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) from CRODA) 25 - Carnauba wax (COPERNICIA CERIFERA CARNAUBA WAX Tl INA TRADING) - 4 Sunflower wax (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) WAX (KOSTER) - 4 Beeswax (BLEACHED CERABEIL DAB) - 7 C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES (LIPOCIRE A PELLETS SG) - 10 VP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER (UNIMER U-1946) 5 SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE (SAIB 100) 5 PIGMENTS (Titanium Dioxide and Iron Oxides) 7 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE Qsp 100

[0153] The formulas were prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1.

[0154] The two formulas were then evaluated by a panel of experts, for the film's hold and the gloss of the composition of the invention, according to the following protocol: - Each formula is applied to half of the lips, the formula of the invention on the left part and the comparative formula on the right part; - The experts evaluated the improvement in film adhesion and gloss of the invention's composition compared to the comparative (control) formula and awarded the following grades:

[0155] +: significant improvement in the stability of the formula of the invention compared tively to the control formula

[0156] ++: very significant improvement in the stability of the formula of the invention compared tively to the control formula

[0157] The evaluation results are presented in the following table 5:

[0158] [Tables5] Immediate shine. Shine lasts +2 hours. Film lasts +2 hours. Film lasts +4 hours after eating. Panelist 1: ++ ++ ++ ++ Panelist 2: ++ ++ ++ Panelist 3: ++ ++ ++ Panelist 4: ++ ++ ++ ++

[0159] These results show that the presence of a lipophilic polyamide polycondensate in stick emulsion compositions according to the invention makes it possible to significantly improve the immediate gloss, as well as the film's hold from 2 hours.

[0160] The panelists also observed the absence of migration of the red into the fine lines around the lips, with improved results for the formula of the invention compared to the control formula.

[0161] Both formulas were also evaluated on the aspect of stability (non-transfer) according to the protocol described in the previous example.

[0162] 0: no transfer

[0163] - : light transfer

[0164] — : average transfer

[0165] — important transfer

[0166] The results are presented in the following table 6:

[0167] [Tableauxô] Formulas tested Evaluation of Transfer on Control Paper ___ Invention -

[0168] These results show that the hold (non-transfer) of the formula according to the invention is improved compared to the comparative formula with waxes.

[0169] Example 3: Effect of lipophilic polyamide polycondensate (POLYAMIDE-8) on the hold of shine and film in a solid, foundation-type composition, in stick form, compared to waxes

[0170] The following composition is a foundation with SPF sun protection.

[0171] [Tables?] Ingredients (INCI name) Inventi on Control n GLYCEROL 3 ​​1,2-HEXANEDIOL 2 PURIFIED WATER 10 pH adjusters Qs Preservatives Qs 1 SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 4 POLYAMIDES (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) from CRODA) 25 - Carnauba wax (COPERNICIA CERIFERA, CARNAUBA WAX Tl INA TRADING) - 4 Sunflower wax (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX), SUNFLOWER WAX (KOSTER) - 4 Beeswax (BLEACHED CERABEIL DAB) - 5 C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES (LIPOCIRE A PELLETS SG) - 7 VP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER (UNIMER U-1946) 2.5 SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE (SAIB 100) 2.5 ETHYL-2-HEXYL PALMITATE Qsp 100 ETHYL HEXYL SALICYLATE (ESCALOL 587) 4.5 2 PIGMENTS (Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide and Iron Oxides) 19 Dicaprylyl Carbonate (CETIOL C) 3 3 Silica 10

[0172] The formulas were prepared according to the following procedure: - The ingredients of phase B1 are weighed in the main beaker; - Phase B1 is heated to 95 °C in a water bath and dispersed with Rayneri

[0173]

[0174]

[0175]

[0176]

[0177]

[0178]

[0179] until a homogeneous transparent phase is obtained; - The ingredients of phase B2 are weighed in a capsule and passed through the tri-cylinder 3 times to homogenize the pigment mixture; - Phase B1 is added to phase B2; - Phase B3 is weighed into a capsule and added to the previous mixture; - Phase A is placed in a water bath at 90°C to create the emulsion. mixed with Rayneri; - Phase A is added to Phase B under Rayneri by gradually increasing the speed up to 600 rpm. Both formulas were also evaluated on the aspect of stability (non-transfer) according to the protocol described in the previous examples. 0: no transfer - : light transfer — : average transfer — significant transfer The results are presented in the following table 8: [Tables 8] Formulas tested Evaluation of Transfer on Control Paper ___ Invention 0

[0180] These results show that the hold (non-transfer) of the formula according to the invention is clearly improved (no transfer observed) compared to the comparative formula with waxes.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a solid emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - a sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB) as a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, optionally in addition an additional compound selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, - and optionally in addition at least one coloring material.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acid terminations being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER.

4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an active material content of 15% to 30% by weight, preferably 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the claims, characterized in that it comprises: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, preferably in a content ranging from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - a sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB) as a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinic materials, possibly in addition an additional compound selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, - and possibly in addition a coloring matter.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils, preferably selected from ester oils, water, and one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably selected from glycerol, C2-C8 glycols and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an additional ingredient selected from emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents distinct from lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, vegetable resins, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more UV filters.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a stick for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips, in particular a lipstick stick, a foundation stick, a complexion corrector or concealer, an eyelid product, an eyebrow product or an eyeliner.

11. Cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.